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People & Culture

june 2011

jindo island a phenomenon of land and sea WHITE collar bands becoming rock stars by night

The evolution of traditional forms

www..net ISSN: 2005-2162 Contentsjune 2011 VOL.7 NO.06

02 cover story Korean traditional dance grows with the times. 02

12 pen & brush Artist Park Seo-bo is a pioneer of .

16 people Professor Kym Hyo-gun ties logic with music.

20 great korean ’s epic travels took him to the .

22 Teheranno combines beauty and convenience.

24 24 travel Peek into the splendors of Jindo Island’s nature.

28 festival The Ganghwa Mugwort Festival boosts health.

29 flavor publisher Seo Kang-soo, Enjoy cool in summer. Korean Culture and Information Service

30 Editing HEM KOREA Co., Ltd

now in korea e- [email protected] A movement of workers’ bands gains speed. printing Samsung Moonhwa Printing Co. 34 special issue All right reserved. No part of this Commemorate fallen allies of the . publication may be reproduced in any form without permission from KOREA and the Korean Culture and 36 Information Service. special issue Hallyu finds new strength in Europe. The articles published in KOREA do not necessarily represent the views of 38 the publisher. The publisher is not liable for errors or omissions. summit diplomacy 38 President Lee Myung-bak visits Europe. If you want to receive a free copy of KOREA or wish to cancel a subscription, 42 please e-mail us. A downloadable PDF global korea file of KOREA, and a map and glossary More doctors volunteer for overseas posts. with common Korean words appearing in our text are available by clicking on the 46 thumbnail of KOREA on the homepage of www.korea.net. my korea A look into the charms of Gosa ceremonies. 발간등록번호 11-1110073-000016-06 cover story

The definition of Korean dance is being stretched to include not just traditional dances from the past, but new ballets depicting Korean stories, dances that weave traditional motions into the modern and even the remarkably popular iterations of b-boy crews featured in tourism advertisements. by CedarBough T Saeji | photographs by Park Jeong-roh

Dancers perform in the National Dance Company of Korea’s 2009 Gaya. © Yonhap News Agency News Yonhap © Lee Jeong-yun, a longtime member of the A solo violinist in a black suit and gayageum (12-string Korean zither) into unstoppably modern work,” a sentiment National Dance Company of Korea, piece by both the National Dance performs in a modern work alongside fedora walks across the , playing the piece Please, Catch Me. that properly encapsulates much of what fellow company dancers (above). Company of Korea and Ahn Eun- Dancers perform in the domestic a haunting melody from the classical KOREA sat down with Ahn in a is happening in the modern dance world production Model House at the me). Chunhyang is best known as an Western tradition as an overhead quiet cafe in Itaewon to talk with her in Korea today. International Modern Dance Festival epic narrative song; it is the (MODAFE) in late May (opposite below). spotlight leaves his face shadowed by about traditional dance, her most recent “I am much interested in A female lead strikes a stance during a Korean Romeo and Juliet. The original of Model House, his hat brim. As the music changes, work, Dancing for Grandmother, and incorporating traditional elements into choreographed by Park Hae-joon, which version tells the story of Chunhyang, the stage lights reveal five women in her upcoming presentation of her piece my choreography,” Ahn says. “People explores the many roles of family in life. the daughter of a gisaeng (Korean white, shoulder-baring dresses, gliding Princess Bari at the Edinburgh Fringe usually believe that tradition has to be geisha), and Mongryong, the noble son dramatically across the stage on their Festival in August 2011. Princess Bari is presented in a certain specific way, but of a governor, who secretly marries toes before pausing in long-limbed the company’s works such as Soul, the well-loved Korean story of a fearless I don’t think so. Tradition continues her. They are separated by fate and extension. Although still performed on Sunflower have increasingly used Korean and devoted daughter who ventures to change, and I also want to take my social obligations, and in Mongryong’s Western instruments, the music changes traditional movement vocabulary and to the underworld to bring back the roots, these Korean stories and Korean absence, Chunhyang’s great beauty is to the tune of a Korean folk song sped stories as elements in modern dance water of life for her ailing father. In this consciousness, and create something noted by a corrupt local politician. up to double time to accompany the works. Many regard the integration of performance, Ahn incorporates four new.” A similar motivation seems to These new Korean ballets have begun now violent and explosive movements Western and Eastern elements as the traditionally-trained dancers, a pansori have even spread to the world of ballet. touring extensively overseas, with the of the dancers. This is the opening of future of dance in Korea. singer to belt out the tale and musicians Although ballet, a classic of the Western current schedule presenting The Love Soul, Sunflower, a full-length modern playing Korean traditional instruments dance canon, is unlikely to adopt the of Chunhyang, Shim Chung and Prince dance concert borrowing elements INTEGRATION OF MODERNITY No to fuse Korean tradition with modern use of Korean movement or dancers Hodong in more than 40 cities including from Korean traditional dance. It is discussion of modern dance in Korea dance. Combining these traditional trained in Korean traditional dance, the Naples, ; ; Taipei, ; also one of the major touring pieces in would be complete without mentioning elements with a more empowering re- Universal Ballet Company has added Moscow; and Johannesburg between the repertoire of the National Dance the queen of modern Korean dance interpretation of the tale, Ahn fuses the ballets Shim Chung and The Love 2011 and 2013. In fact, Korean ballet has Company of Korea. Ahn Eun-me. One of Korea’s most traditional and modern dance to create of Chunhyang to their repertoire, and grown up quickly. With several Korean National dance companies tend to active and innovative choreographers, a moving, award-winning production, the Korea National Ballet Company has ballerinas and ballerinos winning major feature the cultural heritage deemed Ahn has presented around the world which showcases the best of dance developed Prince Hodong. The story of international competitions in 2010, authentic to their own locale, so it and frequently works with non-Korean in Korea. An MBC reporter closed Chunhyang is a true Korean classic (it ballet has become a hot trend, especially is not surprising that the company, dancers. Ahn’s choreography includes her news spot on the Princess Bari has been made into an award-winning with the new emphasis on Korean founded in 1962, originally focused on traditional elements in some of the most series saying, “Culture from Korean movie by Im Kwon-taek, a popular stories which renders the art form more

Korean traditional dance. However, creative ways since she first incorporated antiquity has been given new life in this below) opposite (left, Festival Dance Modern International (top); Korea of Company Dance National The © Korean TV and a modern dance approachable to the Korean public.

04 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 05 Some of these works have appeared dance vocabulary into modern dance is In the past, Korean dance was Korean traditional dress. In addition to medley of 10 Korean traditional dances. major classics of the dance canon, in MODAFE, the International a natural step forward, both for modern inseparable from Korean society. Court the ubiquitous , there are certain This dance concert contains all the such as Salpurichum (shamanic ritual Modern Dance Festival held dancers and for Korean traditional dances were needed in the era of a court key elements to be found when staging elements an audience expects in Korean exorcism dance) and taepyeongmu annually in the late spring (May dancers. Surprisingly, the Korean that received international envoys and Korean traditional dance. For example, traditional dance, including dancers in (great peace dance). The distinctive 18 to 29) which has become one of government - which once focused wanted to show some form of sedate Korean dance does not have intricate swirling pink, manipulating oversized motions show the dancer casting off Korea’s most exciting international almost exclusively on the protection and Confucian entertainment. placements or gestures with the fingers fans trimmed with feathers dyed fuchsia the undesired, even drawing an invisible modern dance showcases. Each of the traditional arts, particularly danced, sang and played musical and hands - the hands are often relaxed in Korean classic fan dance. sword to scare away unseen forces. Yi year the festival includes not only during the Park Chung-hee, Chun instruments as part of the daily life in and move together with the wrist and However, many other dances are Yun-seok, National Living Treasure a selection of established and Doo-hwan and Roh Tae- cooperative agricultural communities, arm. Most of the typical gestures trace credited with deeper ties to Korean for Goseong Ogwangdae, explains, emerging Korean modern dance woo administrations - is lightening group work, building interesting curving patterns in the air history; amongst the most fascinating “Traditionally this motion was to stars, but also several overseas now embracing the fusion community and enlivening important and the shoulders are loose, relaxed and of Korea’s staged performing arts are banish ghosts or malevolent spirits. In dance companies. Since of Korean dance and annual festivals and village rites. In the even slightly hunched, particularly in the mask dance . Combining the modern world where many regard MODAFE began in 1982, contemporary dance from modern era, people no longer believe folk dance. The basis of movement is elaborate masks, music, dance motions belief in ghosts as a superstition we can performers from countries around the world. in village tutelary guardians and they a duck-footed stance and dancers step and stories that reflect a snapshot of think of this motion as casting off stress, around the world including use tractors to harvest their barley, heel to toe. But in the fastest folk dances Dynasty (1392-1910) society, the heartbreak or failure and banishing it Israel, the Netherlands, reducing or even erasing the relevance the legs stay close to each other with the preserved mask dance dramas remain from our lives.”

Belgium, , (From left to right) The lead of the traditional folk arts. Many of the feet close to the floor, although they lift crowd-pleasing favorites. One of the Dance in Korea, whether the the United States and dancers in the Korea National arts that remain strong in Korea are to knee height in the most physically most captivating is Goseong Ogwangdae, movements are modern Korean or the Ballet Company’s modernized France have presented piece Prince Hodong embrace in a part of the lineage of the professional demanding folk dances. from the small town of Goseong on story alone harkens back to an idyllic singular movement; Ballerinas their choreography in dance en pointe for the entertainers called gisaeng, because only Dance performed by gisaeng the south coast near , so focused past, is vibrant and well established sold-out halls. After Universal Ballet Company’s the arts of the gisaeng were created for entertainers was on occasion suggestive, on dance that little to no dialogue is with myriad institutions for training, retelling of the classic Shim , MODAFE’s Chung folk tale; Company an audience, allowing them to translate but suggestive motions in Korean dance included. promotion and production. As the members perform scenes format frequently allows for dialogue in hanbok, Korean well to the proscenium stage. do not isolate or feature the hip, backside The dances within the traditional barriers between different forms grow between the choreographer and the traditional dress, for the In Korean traditional dance, the or chest. All of these traits can be seen in drama are so widely loved that in the more permeable, we can expect to see National Dance audience, an opportunity for insights Company of Korea’s performers are generally clad in the National Dance Company of Korea’s modern era this deotbaegichum is ever more creative works arising on the that eager young dance students Dance Chunhyang. voluminous skirts of the hanbok, or major touring work, Korean Fantasy, a staged by unmasked dancers alongside Korean stage. relish. Given the wide popular (opposite) Korea of Company Dance National The (bottom); Company Ballet Universal (left); Company Ballet National Korea © support and quick explosion of the Korean b-boy sensation in recent years, tourism advertisements here are helping spur the genre of the modern iteration of 1980s break dancers as Korea is currently home to half of the top competitive b-boy crews. Korean crews are highly regarded overseas and have become a fixture on the international circuit, winning acclaim and awards at events such as Battle of the Year, Red Bull BC One and R-16 Korea. R-16 was started in Korea only a few years ago, but it has already become one of the biggest hip-hop and b-boying festivals in the world.

THE INFLUENCES OF HISTORY The

innovative appropriation of traditional (2) Giants Lotte Eagles; Hanwha Agency; News Yonhap right) to left (From ©

06 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 07 cover story

the performer’s student. Kim was also undergraduate practices, while carrying a student of Jeong Jae-man, a National out thesis research on nabichum, An Ideal Life Living Treasure for the Salpurichum the Buddhist ritual butterfly dance. (shamanic ritual exorcism dance). Had Following a period of post-graduation Lee Jeong-yun says his life is ideal the way it is right now. A principal Lee learned it from his teacher? independent study, Lee entered the dancer at the peak of his career, Lee has the respect of his colleagues and “More than saying I’ve learned National Dance Company of Korea in the satisfaction of loving his work. Salpurichum, I would like to say that 2002. traditional dance takes a very long time Lee explained that the company is to master,” he says, showing a respect for about displaying the best of Korean tradition. Lee’s background is in more dance, no matter what type. Dancers than just Salpurichum. His traditional rehearse Korean dance from 10am dance training has extended through to noon everyday and receive special most of the classics, including seungmu training from leading traditional dancers (monk’s dance) and mask dance dramas such as Jeong Jae-man for Salpurichum. like Bongsan , Hahoe Byeolsin Likewise, they are taught by various Gut Tallori and Goseong Ogwangdae. experts in modern dance and ballet, Hahoe Byeolsin Gut Tallori, the mask as well as rehearse choreography. The dance drama from Hahoe Village near bottom line, according to Lee, is that Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province, some people have a negative opinion was incorporated into one of Lee’s National Dance Company of Korea member Lee of Korean traditional dance. They Jeong-yun poses in front of the National Theater performances in April. The concertLee of Korea (above). Lee, who has studied both think it’s slow, boring and for the older traditional and modern dance forms, extends his Jeong-yun and Etoile was the first time body gracefully in a piece for the company generation, and this is an attitude Lee in the history of the National Dance (opposite). wants to change. He wants to show the Company of Korea that a single dancer dynamism of traditional in partnership was able to present a full-length show on with modern dance, see the dance world the main stage. that they rarely even meet. When they freed from the fantasy that tradition Coinciding with Lee’s 10th year with do, however, their dates might include does not change, and allow a natural the company, the performance showed watching other dance performances. On evolution of the traditional performing the depth of his training, creativity and occasion they have even met up while arts. influences. Lee passionately explains that both were touring shows overseas. Lee’s eyes glint with pride as he dance is dance, no matter if it’s ballet, Lee obtained all of his dance training describes the staging of ogomu, the Within a few moments of meeting of motions so dynamic they seem a blur. Korean dance, particularly to the benefit modern, creative or Korean. Hence, his in Korea. For his bachelor’s, he attended five drum dance, comprised of a line Lee Jeong-yun of the National Dance Commenting on Lee’s comfort level with of the next generation of dancers, is a concert moved through the spectrum , where he of 13 men powerfully beating on the Company of Korea, he is posed in front the photography, I find he has made a recurring topic of conversation. of genres without regard for artificial spent half of each day in classes devoted instruments in perfect synchronicity. of the photographer on the balcony conscious effort to learn to be a natural At one time he had been one of those boundaries, using Korean sentiment and to theory and the other half practicing When I ask him about memorable of the National Theater of Korea. Lee, in front of a lens. young hopefuls himself, and with the thought as its foundation. Lee chuckles, dance. At that time, the Korea National roles, he highlights the romantic male 34, is confident and not the slightest He explains his frustrations with support of his parents and teachers his eyes twinkling, as he describes the University of Arts (K-Arts) dance lead in Dance Chunhyang. He describes bit afraid to strike a dramatic pose, but popular reality TV shows such as I Am a he made the decision to pursue dance great pride and happiness he felt when program had only recently opened. his realization of growth in his own his personality escapes between shots Singer, where stars of the past are forced when he was 15 years old. After a rehearsing and presenting the piece with Through friends, Lee learned that at ability brought about by performing in a grin that extends to his eyes, the to prove their chops all over again. period of learning modern dance, he his friends. K-Arts, the students were focusing Mongryong in the story, 10 years after bandaged wrist and part of a black- Compared to such programs, Korean happened to attend a performance by One of those friends was female lead on practice to the extent that no one his first performance of the part. His ink tattoo peeking out from above his dance has been relatively neglected, noted traditional dancer Kim Choong- Kim Joo-won, the prima ballerina of changed out of their dance clothes; a joy in his own development shows waistband. so now Lee takes every opportunity han. Lee describes the concert as the the Korea National Ballet Company shockingly radical but highly appealing the passion that has made him an Adjourning to a studio for an indoor to publicize its traditions and the moment he was hit with the beauty of and Lee’s girlfriend of the past several approach. indispensible member of his company. shot, he can’t restrain himself from new creative works which draw from Korean traditional dance. Just watching years. The two dancers are both so busy Lee entered K-Arts for his Masters After the interview winds down, Lee tearing into a fast-paced beat on a set of traditional movements. A desire to was enough to convince young Lee that with their and performances degree, where he excitedly rushed from heads back inside, the empty practice

drums, his hands flying through a series build a more favorable environment for he had to move to Seoul and become Korea of Company Dance National The © all around the world, Lee explains, class to class auditing a wide variety of room’s siren call echoing in his ears.

08 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 09 cover story

in May called Princess Kongji. This funded company specifically to explore the association has engaged in while work, like many of their other pieces, the field of contemporary dance. The pursuing these goals include running capitalizes on well-known Korean Korea National Contemporary Dance the Seoul International Choreography folktales that have been made into Company is based out of the Seoul Festival since 1992, hosting the Seoul Korean dramas (in this case, Lie to Me). Arts Center and for the moment is International Youth Dance Festival since The company is housed at the large comprised of a 10-person staff. Unlike 1997, publishing the dance magazine National Theater of Korea complex, a other nationally supported performing Images of Dance since 1989 and giving warren of practice rooms and theaters arts groups, the Korea National out awards to recognize the promotion of various sizes, along with the National Contemporary Dance Company of Korean modern dance since 1990. of Korea, the National Drama secures dancers for each individual Company of Korea and the National performance through auditions, instead domestic and abroad Traditional Company of Korea. The of keeping a permanent company. The dance in Korea is protected under company employs more than 50 dancers, inaugural director, Hong Sung-yop, was the auspices of the Cultural Heritage most of whom have a solid rooting in a ballerino before his 20-year history as Administration, a subsidiary of Korean traditional dance. A typical day a choreographer, and will remain in the the Ministry of Culture, Sports at the theater complex runs from 10am position for at least the first three years and Tourism. The seven protected to 5pm, with supervised by of the company. dances are Salpurichum (shamanic senior company members, and classes The Modern Dance Promotion of ritual exorcism dance), seungmu, under the artistic director. At present the Korea is the powerhouse at the center taepyeongmu, (dance of company has three major works: Korean of the Korean modern dance world. the hero Cheoyong), Jinju geommu (Jinju Fantasy, Dance Chunhyang and Soul, Their major goals include providing sword dance), seungjeonmu (victory Sunflower. In 2011, they will present support for modern dance in Korea, dance) and hagyeonhwadae hapseolmu more than 40 full-length dance concerts promoting the academic study of (hakchum, that is, crane dance). in Korea and make seven full-length and research on dance, nurturing The online Keep Korean Rockin’ international appearances. Whether choreographers, creating opportunities (www.koreanroc.com) is the go-to site Princess Kongji will join the regular for international exchange and for information on the b-boy/b-girl Dancing for Life repertoire has yet to be decided. fellowship and maintaining a database scene from a local perspective. The same In 2010, the Ministry of Culture, of Korean modern dance works and organizers also oversee the quarterly A large number of organizations associated with Korean dance in all its many Sports and Tourism created a new state- individuals. Some of the activities that Korean competitive performance called enumerations are keeping Korean traditions alive. These institutions help Korean Rockin’ Sensation. For non-Korean dancers receive the support they need to excel in classical and contemporary dances of A ballerina warms up for rehearsal at the Universal Ballet Company (below). Dancers speakers, the website supplies a rich the , and to blaze new conceptual trails. perform sanjo chum, a composition that uses traditional dance vocabulary (opposite left). trove of videos and links to the major A character from the mask dance drama Dongnae Yayu performs (opposite right). Korean b-boy/b-girl crews, as well as international crews, dancers and Education is the key to the future of the The K-Arts university dance dance). In addition, some dance websites for major competitions. arts. According to the latest government program, founded in 1996, features majors also attend the K-Arts School of There are several overseas statistics, there are 32 middle and high three departments: Dance Performance, Traditional Korean Arts, where one can organizations that concentrate on schools for the performing arts, five of Dance Theory and Choreography. collaborate with students from other maintaining Korean traditional dance which focus specifically on traditional Students in the Dance Performance music or performance fields. Two full- culture. The Korean Dance Studies arts. These programs for young, major are divided into four areas: time professors in this entirely practice- Society of Canada can be found in talented individuals allow students to ballet, Korean dance, modern dance based program are noted performers of Toronto and the OngDance Company get the head start needed to develop a and creative dance. The students are taepyeongmu (great peace dance) and is located in the San Francisco area. solid foundation. Once they graduate, taught under the guidance of faculty hakchum (crane dance). The East Coast is overseen by the though, there is one university that members such as Kim Hyun-ja, the Korean Traditional Performing Arts has increasingly become the preferred former director of the National Dance cornucopia of companies The Association, Inc in New York and the destination: the School of Dance at the Company of Korea, and Jung Seung- National Dance Company of Korea, Halla Huhm Foundation covers those

Korea National University of Arts. hee, a master of seungmu (monk’s founded in 1962, premiered a new work Saeji T CedarBough © located in Hawaii.

10 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 11 pen & brush

Master Pioneer of Contemporary Park Seo-bo is one of Korea’s most Art famous modernist painters. His work has been featured in countless art fairs and galleries, and was on the cover of the popular textbook Art He’s been called a leader of contemporary , a master of monochrome painting and the pioneer of Korean Avant- Fundamentals: Theory and Practice, garde. Park Seo-bo has led an illustrious career over the found in art schools around the world. last half century, and it’s unlikely that he will put down his Though now 80 years old, Park hasn’t paintbrush any time soon. slowed down and spends an average “Ever since my 20s, I’ve spent more than 14 hours a day of 14 hours a day on his artwork, often on average on painting,” Park says. “I never let myself get wearing a black sweater permanently distracted and have walked on that single path. Sure, there stained with watercolors. have been hard times, but I’ve never been disappointed by Choi Hye-jung | photographs by Kim Nam-heon or frustrated with myself. Whenever I was faced with [a problem], I drove myself even harder and overcame adversity. And I would always ask myself, ‘Have I been right?’ Without looking at yourself in the mirror, there’s no progress. When you get tough on yourself and try to think, act and express your thoughts differently than others, only then do you produce good pieces of work.” Saying he couldn’t ask for more because his job has been a labor of love and received critical acclaim to boot, Park looked content when KOREA visited him in his studio. “From late last year to early this year, I held three exhibitions at Kukje Gallery in Seoul, Johyun Gallery in Busan and the Busan Museum of Art, almost simultaneously. More than 100 pieces were put on display, but the storage unit didn’t seem empty. That felt great,” Park says with a laugh. “I don’t usually put up my pieces for sale,” Park continues. “Money is a vice for artists. If you’re tempted by money, then you’re bound to get lazy. I have no other interest than painting. Unless it’s for my exhibitions, I don’t even travel. But in my heart, I am really happy. Looking at my storage unit full of my paintings, which are really extensions of myself, and losing myself in painting in the quiet studio, I can’t ask for anything Park Seo-bo’s studio is a world of simplified colors. more. I don’t think there’s a rich man happier than I am.” Park Seo-bo

12 | korea | june 2011 At one point, Park’s father had a vision that Seo-bo of his goals with the series was to bring natural scenery and Overseas Exhibitions by Park Seo-bo would be very successful in law. “When I showed colors into his artwork. him my letter of admission to the art program, “No form of art is more beautiful than nature,” Park says. Park Seo-bo, who led the monochromism movement with his Ecriture of course he went berserk,” Park says. “At the “Once, I was riding in a taxi on Jejudo Island, and I saw the series in the 1960s, pioneered abstract painting in Korea. Starting with his first exhibition abroad at the World House Gallery in New York, time, people who painted for a living were called sky, the sea and the island all become one, like they were Park has since displayed his work in the United States, Europe, ‘daubers.’ My father didn’t eat for two weeks, but connected by a single line. It was just absolutely spectacular. Australia, and in a variety of exhibitions. my mother accepted it and said it was my destiny. I started thinking, how could I turn this into a painting?” Park 2010 Art Taipei 2010, Wellside Gallery (Booth No 43), Taipei, China Looking back, I am glad I didn’t become a lawyer. continues. “You know my piece where a rectangular window 2008 ‘Empty the Mind,’ Gallery Arario New York, New York I don’t have to worry about others and I don’t have is put on the long, single-color line? That was what I saw on Wellside Gallery, Shanghai to retire by a certain age.” Jejudo that day. That square is what I called a ‘breathing space,’ CIGE 2008, Wellside Gallery, China World Trade Center, 2007 Gallery Arario Beijing, Beijing After studying art at , Park as in, the mind breathes through it. Nikos Papastergiadis, a CIGE 2007, Gallery Samtuh, China World Trade Center, Beijing led efforts to introduce expressionistic abstract professor at the University of Melbourne in Australia, called 2006-2007 Cabinet des Dessins, Musee d’Art Moderne de Saint- paintings in the late 1950s, when representational it a ‘window of the mind.’ They say there’s that expression in Etienne Metropol, Saint-Etienne, France 2006 CIGE 2006, Gallery Samtuh, China World Trade Center, Beijing paintings were popular in Korea. His Protoplasm Greek philosophy.” 2005 Shanghai Art Fair 2005, Gallery Samtuh (Booth No B-35), series, which was launched in 1957, revealed Shanghai Mart Hall, Shanghai Park Seo-bo’s Ecriture No 090916 was painted in 2011. the painful and devastating consequences of Art as Therapy For Park, painting isn’t an egotistical CIGE 2005, Gallery Samtuh, China World Trade Center, Beijing 2004 CIGE (China International Gallery Exposition) 2004, Gallery the Korean War (1950-1953). Art critics praised exercise to show off talent, but a therapeutic way to “empty” Samtuh, China International Science and Technology Exposition, Beijing the series as the scream that broke the silence himself of the anxieties of modern life. 2002 Ace Gallery Los Angeles following the war. In 1958, Park joined forces “The 20th century was an era of analogue, and at the time, Melbourne Art Fair 2002, Gallery Samtuh, Melbourne, Australia Remba Gallery, Los Angeles with Kim Tschang-yeul and Ha In-du to found people thought they had to expose themselves,” Park explains. 2000 Tokyo Gallery, Tokyo the Korea Association of Modern Artists, and “Art has to reflect its time, and when the time changes, art has 1997 Ace Gallery, Los Angeles bring the Informel Movement, which emphasized to change with it. In the digital era, when the pace of change Remba Gallery, Los Angeles 1996 Basel Art Fair, Park Ryu Sook Gallery, Museen Basel, Basel, spontaneous and unconscious painting, to Korea. picked up and a lot of people are greatly stressed out, paintings Switzerland that only show the artist’s personality and own greed are FIAC (International Fair) 1996, Johyun Gallery, Master of Monochrome In the 1960s, Park mentally abusive. I just think it’s wrong. That’s why I chose to Espace Eiffel Branly, 1994 Remba Gallery, Los Angeles began to focus on monochromatic painting. In his ‘empty’ myself to go with the flow of the time,” Park adds. “Art 1993 ART LA 1993, The 8th International Contemporary Art Fair, Los Ecriture series in 1967, he applied light watercolors in the digital age has to be like blotting paper that absorbs all Angeles Convention Center, Gallery World on the canvas and drew lines over the paint before worries and anxieties of its audience. In other words, it has to NICAF 1993, Sun Gallery, Yokohama, Japan 1989 ART LA 1989, The 4th International Contemporary Art Fair, Los it dried. He would then paint more colors on top of be therapeutic.” Angeles Convention Center, Jean Art Gallery that and draw more lines. “I believe colors can heal people’s feelings,” he says. “That’s 1985 Ina Gallery, Tokyo As the late critic Lee Il said, “By overcoming the why I’ve moved from achromatic colors such as black and gray 1978 Tokyo Gallery, Tokyo 1973 Muramatsu Gallery, Tokyo dualistic structure of the that to monochromatic paintings with red, blue, green and other 1957 World House Gallery, New York distinguished support and surface of the canvas, colors with high saturation. In my paintings, fluorescent red [the series] realized the naturalization of Korean can convey calm feelings, something that doesn’t come to the Ecriture No 090513 is one of Park’s recent works. modernism.” surface but that gets saturated underneath. Foreigners noticed A famous Swiss publisher is also releasing a book on By reinterpreting Western style from an Eastern this right away, too. Once, the head of the National Museum of Korean monochromism by Miki Wick Kim. Kate YK Lim, a An Auspicious Beginning Park Seo-bo was born in 1931 perspective, Park, in the words of art critic Yoo -sang, Monaco and his friend who came to my exhibition at Wellside Korean artist in Singapore, is working on an English-language in Yecheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province. His childhood was “changed the idea that emphasized the essence of drawing,” Gallery exulted, ‘This is the art of therapy.’” biography of Park. It looks like the famous art critic Robert filled with omens of his future greatness. which is the foundation of painting. Park’s unique use of the layering of colors has helped him C Morgan’s prediction that Park “will be the world’s top artist “My mother was a lot younger than my father,” Park recalls. After the 1980s, Park attempted another transformation. He receive attention from all corners of the world. Next year, Park within a few years” is coming true. “My maternal grandfather saw his daughters pass away one brought hanji, Korean traditional paper, to the Ecriture series. expects to hold his first solo exhibit in Brussels, an emerging At Park’s 80th birthday party last November, he told his by one, during labor, so he went to see a fortuneteller for my He would dip pieces of hanji in water mixed with watercolors, center of contemporary art. guests, “I’ve still got long ways to go with my painting, but mother and was told that she should marry a man who had paste them onto the canvas, and would roll over them using Park is about to receive even more international attention the sun is setting. Let it set then. I’ll just use some artificial lost his wife. That way, she would live long and give birth to some tools that left marks on the canvas. The process captured with the publication of several books on his artwork. Joan Kee, lighting.” As art critics and historians begin to look back on great sons. So my mother married my father, and I am their the texture of hanji. In the 21st century, Ecriture evolved once an professor at the University of Michigan at Ann Park’s 60-year career, it is important to remember that he is third son.” again, as Park applied repeated brush strokes to the hanji- Arbor, plans to publish a book on monochromism in Korea no great master of the past, but a living legend whose body of Park Seo-bo Park

Park’s father, who was a lawyer, adored the young Seo-bo. covered canvas, producing vertical patterns. Park said that one © featuring Park through the University of California Press. work keeps expanding.

14 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 15 people

Kym Hyo-gun performs in a concert at . Kym Hyo-gun Songs to Comfort Professor and songwriter Kym Hyo-gun manages to find the sweetest balance between business and music. Twenty years after his debut as an unexpected maestro in a contest, this multifaceted individual shares the secrets of his joy, craft and philosophy. by Lee Se-mi | photographs by Kim Nam-heon

In 1981, a song called Snow won the top prize at the MBC which attempts to explain knowledge as three-dimensional University Music Festival. With its beautiful lyrics and cubes, Kym was also the first person to introduce the concept catchy melody, the song quickly became a contemporary of “knowledge management” to Korea. A well-known scholar favorite. Interestingly enough, the man responsible for whose theories have been adopted in many of Korea’s largest writing the piece, Kym Hyo-gun, wasn’t a music major. In companies, Kym is also a first-rate composer, and his unique fact, to the public’s great surprise, he was studying business background attracts as much attention today as it did before. administration. Kym was in his third year of studies at Seoul National

© Kym Hyo-gun Kym © The person responsible for the “knowledge cube” theory, University when he wrote Snow, and was the only non-music

www.korea.net | 17 major to participate in the festival where he would win the National University. Although he enrolled in the economics they were, the public found this type a number of excellent traditional grand prize by a landslide. Afterward, the panel of judges was department, he never gave up his creative passion, attending of music too inaccessible.” numbers which can appeal to quoted as saying, “How could a student majoring in economics courses in the music department to learn more about Kym tried to overcome this audiences anywhere in the world, write a song like this, with poetic lyrics, real harmony and a composition. challenge by writing familiar, even though the genre has a history melody that works perfectly?” However, after winning the top prize at the MBC University Korean traditional songs using going back less than a century. Some write songs by first coming up with the lyrics, while Music Festival, he decided to leave behind the media attention complex musical elements, but his The ‘fine arts’ factor alone that is others start with the melody. With Snow, Kym worked on both and study in the United States, choosing again to pursue endeavors were not well received. required for classical music has not the lyrical and the harmonious elements at the same time, and business administration instead of music. “When I went Many composers began to feel been able to appeal to the public for reveals the inspiration for his debut piece in the very first line: to study overseas after finishing school, I distanced myself pushed to create music that listeners the past 25 years. No kind of music On a little snow-covered path, I wish I could leave a trace of my from music. For 15 years, until I returned to Korea in 1992, would like, oppressing their own that doesn’t have a certain popularity small footprints forever. Kym says, “I first decided to try writing I concentrated on my studies. It wasn’t that I didn’t want artistic expressions. Kym just wanted Kym Hyo-gun speaks about his side career as a musician in to it can last. That’s why I created a presentation at Ewha Womans University, where he is a songs in January 1981. I went to a nearby stationary store to to pursue music; I just knew I wouldn’t be able to stop if I to create an original sound that professor of business administration (opposite). Kym Korean art/pop, which I believe has buy some sheet music paper and then got working when I ever started down the music path. It was only when I felt incorporated elements that everyone composes his own original pieces (above). both artistic elements to it as well as returned home. It was snowing heavily outside and I wanted my research was on track that I finally started playing music from the ages of 20 to 40 would like, popular appeal.” to capture that feeling.” again,” Kym explains. in a way that melded different genres together. Kym believes music should be “pleasant to sing and listen Kym’s love of music was initially sparked during his first A Thousand Winds(2010) was the outcome of his efforts. to,” the word “pleasant” reflecting the feeling that one gets year in middle school. The only student at an all-boys school Return to the scene When he returned to Korea, two more The album, categorized as a new type of “Korean art/pop,” when a song resonates with one’s own emotions. As a result, a who could the piano, he became the pianist for his of Kym’s songs would make it on air: Autumn Song and I Miss features eight classical songs, including a rendition of Snow. pleasant song should be sympathetic to, at least partly, human school’s chorus. As someone who felt an instant affinity with You. His real comeback wouldn’t happen until 2007 though, Profound messages are delivered through simple yet elegant sentiments such as joy, sorrow, love and longing. A keyword classical music after listening to Chopin for the first time, Kym when he fortuitously met some of Korea’s leading composers melodies and sung by Yang Jun-mo, who is more familiar to that resonates throughout the album is “love,” be it platonic practiced the piano by himself and used to listen to cassette at Our Poetry, Our Songs, a group of creative minds. the public than most classical singers, which enabled Kym to love, romantic love or a mother’s love for her child. For Kym, tapes and read scores on his way home. His interests ranged Kym began sharing new pieces with the group, which reach a wider audience. love is about a search for eternity: “Love, nature, God … that from choral music to orchestra. held an annual concert to feature virgin works. To his “My goal is to write songs that older people listen to longing for something absolute and everlasting hasn’t changed Despite his talent, his family’s lack of money and his disappointment, the music scene was not the same as it once nostalgically, but younger music fans want to hear time and at all in the last 30 years. That’s my musical inspiration.” parents’ opposition stopped Kym from choosing a career in was. Dismayed, Kym realized that his peers were much more again after their first listen,” says Kym. “Korean traditional music. But Kym was also an excellent student and eventually interested in pop than the traditional songs he sang. music is a genre that combines poetry and music. Once a Singing a message of truth Kym has been working on gained entrance into Korea’s most prestigious college, Seoul “Pop music in the 1980s featured guitars and a kind of melody is added to a poem, it lasts a long, long time. There are a new project for the past two months, translating 10 of his pop group sound,” explains songs into four different languages: English, French, Chinese Kym. “As a result, Korean KyM HYO-gUN (B.1960) and Japanese. Kym plans to take the sage words of great traditional songs sung by well- philosophers, thinkers and writers from throughout history Musical Career trained singers who had an - Snow wins the top prize at the and put them in his songs. His goal is to add a melody to the orchestra backing them up inaugural MBC University Music message of our lives - from birth and death to growing up could, relatively speaking, Festival, 1981 and feeling desire - so that the message reverberates to all - Performed The Song of Fall and easily attract the attention I Miss You at KBS-FM’s New ages. For example, the lyrics from the title track, A Thousand of music fans. But music Traditional Music Concert, 1994 Winds, were translated from a Native American poem that witnessed a huge development - Performed Wedding Song and clearly highlights their beliefs. Ferryboat at the 1st New Traditional across all genres, from pop Music Concert, 2007 “The song reflects their concept of love,” Kym explains. to jazz, ballads and rock. - Performed Promise of a Thousand Years and Motherly Love at “They believe people don’t actually die even when they pass nd Then, with the rising trend the 2 Korean Traditional Music Festival, 2008 away. Instead, they remain with the living in the surrounding - Released debut album A Thousand Winds, 2010 of atonalism and chance nature. I tried to suffuse this belief into my own song. Simply music, contemporary classical Academic Career put, my future work will be creating songs from the Analects of music became difficult for - BA (Economics), Seoul National University, 1983 Confucius, the Bible and Buddhist scriptures.” - MBA, Seoul National University, 1986 the public to appreciate. - PhD (Business Administration), University of Pittsburgh, 1991 He described this project as a “marriage between a musical Korean composers were also - Assistant Professor, University of Alberta, 1991-1992 composition and my academic interests.” For him, business influenced by this trend and - Director of Knowledge Innovation & Systems Science, Ewha administration and music are just two genres with the same Womans University, 1998-present wrote more complex songs. - Professor of Business Administration, Ewha Womans logical structure. Perhaps it is this ability to weave between the University, 2003-present But no matter how beautiful Hyo-gun Kym © two worlds that makes Kym seem as free as the wind.

18 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 19 great korean

site, and shows traces of Indian , Chinese Taoism and Persian Zoroastrianism. The memoir was considered a valuable part of Pelliot’s Korea’s first man research on East and West trade history. TheWang Ocheonchukguk demonstrates Hyecho’s lyrical wordings in various portions of the work. Many of the expressions depict his longing of the world, for his homeland and his exhaustion from traveling: “On a moonlit night I looked toward the homeward path, Floating clouds return by the wind. I wish this letter to go with this opportunity, Hyecho The wind blows too fast; the clouds neither listen nor return.” Around 1,300 years ago, a 15-year-old boy from Unified The memoir is considered one of the world’s best travelogues along with traveled alone to China. After studying under a Buddhist the Great Tang Records on the Western Regions by the Chinese Buddhist monk, he then continued his journey to , embarking on a monk and Il Milione by . 20,000km trip that led him to become the first Korean to travel CROSSING INTERNATIONAL BORDERS Hyecho traveled to Guangzhou, by Seo Dong-chul on the Silk Road. His name was Hyecho. China, in 719, while studying Esoteric Buddhism (a subset of Mahayana Buddhism founded in India in the late 7th century) under the famous Indian monk . Four years later, a 19-year-old Hyecho embarked Last December, a landmark event set the Korean Buddhist community and on his pilgrimage, first traveling to India by boat. The young monk visited locals abuzz. TheWang Ocheonchukguk Jeon (Memoir of the Pilgrimage each of the five kingdoms of India, including , the birthplace of to the Five Kingdoms of India), a traveler’s journal written by Hyecho, was Buddha, and Sarnath, where Buddha first taught the dharma. Afterwards, returned to Korea for a short while after nearly 1,300 years away from its Hyecho traveled through , Persia, Arabia, the Pamir Plateau and native land - since the Buddhist monk first embarked on his trip. The arrived in Chang’an (currently Xi’an). record, which chronicles the journey of the first Korean to travel to Asia After his return to China, Hyecho concentrated on studying Esoteric and Europe via the Silk Road, came to a three-month exhibition at the Buddhism with Vajrabodhi. With the passing of his mentor, Hyecho later before being returned to France. became a student of , and focused on translating Esoteric The memoir was first made known to the world in 1908. Buddhism texts into Chinese. Chang’an in the 8th century was a prosperous discovered the records in Dunhuang, Province, China, and it has international city in China. Merchants and been in the possession of the La Bibliothèque nationale de France to this students from around the world gathered day. The travel journal, considered the first of its kind to come out of there, resulting in an amalgamation of Korea, had never before left the museum. The exhibit in Seoul marked different cultures. Hyecho is also considered the return of Hyecho after more than 1,000 years and also the work’s first to have greatly contributed to the public showing since it was unearthed a century ago. Accompanying the development and organization of Esoteric literary work were relics from the Silk Road, illuminating the extent of Buddhism in the cultural hub of the time. cultural exchange during that era, and a replica of the Dunhuang Grottos. Hyecho passed away in China in 787, The Buddhist monk wrote the epic piece during his four-year pilgrimage having never set foot on Korean soil of the five kingdoms of India and surrounding countries. TheWang again. Why did he never return to his Ocheonchukguk Jeon contains rare information about India and Central homeland, whilst longing to return? For Asian countries during the 8th century, including political situations, Hyecho, ending his life’s journey in a economy, culture, religion and customs. Only a fragment of the full foreign country would only be fitting, as a memoir is currently intact, a portion which is measured at 358cm long, researcher of Buddhism in foreign lands and is composed of 227 lines and 5,893 letters. where international

Pelliot, who was knowledgeable in and fluent in borders are rendered An artist’s rendition of Chinese, instantly understood the importance and value of this work meaningless. He was Hyecho as he would have looked on his when he discovered it in the Dunhuang Mogao Grottos, the gateway to Korea’s first man of travels (right top). A A gold buckle from the Silk Road connecting China and Central Asia. The grottos, where the world, 1,300 years bronze guard of honor Pyeongyang circa the 1st from China is a Silk Road relic (right). century is a Silk Road find. Hyecho’s journal had rested for centuries, is a UNESCO World Heritage Korea of Museum National The top); (right Jin-ho Park © ago.

20 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 21 seoul

“I thought Teheranno would have been full of business opened multilingual websites in order to communicate Tip! facilities but there are a lot of exclusive cosmetic directly with foreigners who are fans of Hallyu stars and those Gangnam Bus Tour, which includes stops to Bongeunsa Temple, Kukkiwon, and the Museum, makes the trip to Gangnam surgery centers, spas and hotels to make the place a who are interested in visiting Korea. The nearby convenience easier. The bus runs a week, on Tuesdays and Fridays, for foreign trend-setting spot,” says one Japanese tour director, of shopping malls, designer boutiques, upscale spas and tourists. More information about the tour can be found in four who visited Korea to develop tour programs in the salons along the avenue helped attract those who wanted to different languages at http://tour.gangnam.go.kr. Gangnam-gu District, south of the Hangang River. experience a pampered life, Seoul-style, for a couple of days. He said he was fascinated by the nightly scene in Just as all cities have two facets - the old and the new Teheranno, a uniquely Korean style associated with a - so does this capital with Myeong-dong and Teheranno. Choi Ah-rum, manager of the well-known upscale salon culture of affluence. “Every evening career women in While the former continues steadfast in its appeal, the latter is Beautypia, has stood witness to the subtle, but rapid changes nice suits drive their imported cars here to just enjoy a establishing itself as the next big thing. Already equipped with on Teheranno over the last seven years. Beautypia has life of beauty … A lucky person might meet a Korean convenient transportation and concentrated foreign business seen more clients recently, as it was introduced in several celebrity in the store right next to his or her nail salon. facilities, it became a natural step for the launching of new international publications as a popular beauty salon for Hallyu I didn’t expect to see such a fantastic world like this in tour programs for medical operations, Hallyu and more. celebrities. “This area changes every year … These days, we Seoul.” The enterprise-rich area appeals to more multinational even have customers who call from Japan or Singapore just to Teheranno, which stretches from the major visitors than ever before, with tourists from the Middle East, find out where our salon is located,” says Choi. intersection by to the Samseong Europe and other countries making headway into the country Teheranno shows the dynamic adaptability of Korea. Bridge, is becoming the “new face” of Seoul in terms former “Hermit Kingdom.” Combining the latest with the trendiest, the demands of of tourism. It’s where Korea’s high-tech industry “I searched for reliable plastic surgeons in Seoul on the visitors are met in a stylish and comfortable setting. Whether meets cosmetic treatment, satiated with a variety Internet and I found a medical care tour program that includes you’re ready for a new look or hoping to spot a certain celeb, of dynamic foods and beguiling attractions such as a simple cosmetic procedure,” says Sameshima Yuki, a 29-year- it’s time to head to the most-buzzed street in Seoul. luxury shopping. The area provides a different kind of old Japanese tourist who recently had plastic surgery in a clinic service from the tourist attractions north of the river, near Gangnam Station. An all-in-one package allowed her to by combining beautification with tourism for a chance enjoy both a practical and a leisurely visit. She adds, “It was to feel like a celebrity. The fact that many well-known pretty good, as I could get counseling in Japanese before the Hallyu, Korean wave, faces frequent the area doesn’t surgery and look around Gangnam after.” hurt either. Five-star hotels joined the boom by Tours exploring the myriad offerings of Teheranno placing medical centers within their hotel started becoming popular roughly two years ago. As buildings and implementing aggressive the Korean won lost its momentum, masses of tourists marketing strategies to attract foreign from nearby countries began to crowd to vacation- visitors. Lotte Hotel World in Jamsil, which Teheranno opened a medical center in December 2007, is a pioneer in this business. With a multi- care medical center that includes Oriental Reinventing Beauty medicine, dermatology, plastic surgery and dental implant-specialists, Lotte Hotel Are Myeong-dong and the ancient friendly Seoul. Hotels in Myeong-dong, one of the World now greets twice the number of some of the major attractions in Seoul? most-profiled and popular areas in the capital, were foreign guests it did before. Particularly Yes, but there’s one more contender for the unable to accommodate all the visitors, so many for those seeking out Gangnam for top tourist spot in town. Teheranno, or turned their sights to Gangnam. The urban beauty medical tourism, the idea of resting from a Tehran Boulevard, lures in visitors with its belt haven called to those tourists who wanted to try procedure in plush bedding surrounded by something new, something better. amenities is just the thing they need. one-stop approach to shopping, luxury As visitors began to shift their destination a Intercare HPC, a general health and beauty. Some 20 upscale hotels, mega few kilometers south, the tourism infrastructure clinic opened in 2008 at the Grand shopping malls like COEX, chic salons of Gangnam quickly adapted to handle the influx InterContinental Hotel, jointly developed (Clockwise, from above) The Imperial and cosmetic surgery options line the of visitors. Dermatologist and dentists that boast medical tour programs with other tourist Hotel offers package medical tours; beauty products sold at a clinic; a tanning bed; News street to form the latest face of Seoul. celebrity clientele, such as Bae Yong-joon (Winter facilities such as the Seven Luck Casino, clippings spotlight the recent beauty salon trend. A bird’s eye view of Teheranno (opposite).

by Lim Ji-young | photographs by Choi Ji-young Sonata) and Lee Young-ae (Jewel in the Palace), right) (far Hotel Palace Imperial The © which markets to foreign tourists.

22 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 23 travel

Island of Mystique In the past, Jindo was an island few could visit due to its location. Fortunately, this preserved the archipelagos, and today the spot has become well-known for its yearly, mysterious parting of the sea. by Chung Dong- | photographs by Choi Ji-young

Not many Koreans know exactly where very fond of the breed, believing its traits Jindo Island is. The image that comes to match those of the people’s - in the mind when most people think of Jindo mien of forerunning the international is the eponymous dog, known for its IT industry from a small corner of Asia loyalty and intelligence. The Jindo dog and orchestrating massive construction is able to find its way back home even projects worldwide without fear or when stranded hundreds of kilometers doubt. Similar to the Jindo dog, Koreans away, and most learn of the legendary enjoy nature from time to time, but once characteristics of the animal as young their sights are set, will concentrate on children in the classroom. reaching their goal. As I travel to my destination, I try to remember all the distinctive traits of this Remembering the Hero Jindo Island particular man’s best friend. The Jindo is located on the southwestern tip of the dog never backs down from an enemy Korean Peninsula and is the third largest and has the courage to stand against, island, behind Jejudo and Geojedo. even when facing a tiger. Koreans are When Koreans refer to Ttangkkeut © Korea Tourism Organization Tourism Korea ©

The sea off the southwest corner of the Korean Peninsula parts once a year on Jindo Island. Maeul, or “Land’s End Village,” they are the incoming fleet did not know. The with a view of both the bridge and Yi’s of the ocean captivates all those resting long, 40m-wide road that appears at a referring to the Haenam region, which currents of Uldolmok, where the waters statue. He stands as if yelling commands their eyes on its beauty after climbing parting of the sea, a phenomenon that is the southernmost tip of the country. of the Yellow Sea and the South Sea to his fleet 400 years ago. the mountain. Amongst the deep blue occurs from an exceptionally low tide. From Haenam, Jindo can be reached by meet, flow in the opposite direction are the small islands of the archipelago Another site that visitors should not crossing the Jindo Bridge, which is the around noon, due to the changing tides. Sunsets and Sea Roads Visitors can that decorate the ocean with each having miss is Sebang Sunset, where visitors can only easily accessible land connection. A The Japanese fleet rode the northwestern reach the base of the guardian mountain its own distinguishing figures. enjoy a first-rate view of the sinking sun KTX (Korea Train eXpress) train stops currents towards the Korean fleet, of Jindo, Cheomchalsan, by taking “You’re late,” a lady from Okcheon, into the deep ocean. at nearby Mokpo, allowing visitors to which valiantly resisted, holding their National Road No 18 to downtown informs me. “The sea parts in March As I cast my eyes west to the horizon. access the island within four hours from ground until the currents flowed Jindo, Local Road No 9 and then Local and April.” The woman manages a snack I am once again reminded of Admiral Seoul. backwards, determined not to waste this Road No 15 to the east of Jindo. The cart at the entrance to the sea road in Yi Sun-sin, feeling as he would have, As they cross the bridge, visitors can opportunity. As a result, 31 Japanese beauty of the mountain captivates Hoedong-ri, Gogun-myeon. With our greeted by this spectacular sunset. The expect to meet the hero and symbol of ships were sunk and the Japanese visitors, hiding the Ullim Sanbang hopes of walking the sea road shattered, brave admiral is known to have written the Korean people, Admiral Yi Sun-sin general was decapitated; Yi’s insight on Houses and Ssanggyesa Temple within. we rest in the shade of the snack car, poems and drawn up battle plans in the (1545-1598). Yi’s legacy can be found the surrounding and nature’s Though not a particularly tall mountain, enjoying a dish of sea squirts while face of death, and I brace myself as well all across the southern coast, but many advantageous characteristics had led him being only 485m above sea level, its admiring the view. People from all over for life ahead, not to sacrifice today for consider Jindo the best place to reflect to victory. The Battle of Myeongnyang is “skyline” curves flow elegantly like the the world gather to witness the 3km- tomorrow. on his spirit. considered one of the greatest historical shoulders of a woman. Yi was a commander of the Naval Naval battles in the world. At the foot of the mountain are the The currents at Uldolmok are still Ullim Sanbang, Korean traditional travel information A water lily-strewn pond accentuates the view as strong as the days of the great houses with a garden where Joseon inside Ullim Sanbang Directions houses (above). A time- Myeongnyang Battle. The currents Dynasty painter Huh Ryun (1808- Taking the KTX to Mokpo Station is worn bell is seen inside are the fastest in Korea, clocking in at 1893), renowned as a master of Namhwa Ssanggyesa Temple, which convenient. The high-speed train departs twelve Seoul dates back to the 9th 11.5knots-per-hour. Before the Jindo ( of the Southern times a day from Yongsan Station on weekdays. century (left). The Jindo Bridge was built in 1984, most people School), resided in his later years. The Travel time is 3 hours 20 minutes. Bridge is the most From Mokpo Station, it is best to rent a car and accessible route to the did not dare to cross the strait. The garden in front of the dwelling looks southern island (below). travel to Jindo. Travel time is 1 hour. Jindo Bridge was the country’s first spectacular paired with the pond, lotuses Mokpo KT Kumho Rent-a-Car cable-stayed bridge and a second, floating on the water and grape myrtle Domestic Call: 061 274 8000 International Call: +82 2 797 8000 Mokpo parallel bridge was added in 2005 to trees encircling the shore. The beauty of jindo Island accommodate the high traffic. Across, the scenery is enhanced when the trees Food people can visit the Nokjin Observatory, blossom in summer. As an island, the best of Jindo cuisine is Next to the gardens is Ssanggyesa, seafood. Chungho Bokjip (+82 61 544 6998), located downtown, is famous for its cod and anglerfish soups that are light and not too spicy. For visitors in search of a dish other than forces, and is known for having used where Buddhist monks roast leaves. seafood, Naju Gomtang (+82 61 542 7179) in the downtown area is a good option. The unique tactics to fend off forces during The small leaves are roasted nine times gomtang (-bone soup) is boiled for a full day, keeping to the traditions of Naju, Jeollanam- the two Japanese invasions of Korea a day in order to tease out the true taste. do Province, the home of gomtang. (1592-1598). In September 1597, a Ssanggyesa was built in 857AD and gets Accommodations Japanese naval fleet consisting of 133 its name from the Cheomchalsan creek There are no high-end hotels in the area, although numerous pensions with picturesque ships advanced toward Uldolmok that divides and flows on each side of the views of the archipelagos can be found. The Nakjo Pension (+82 11 308 4006) and the Noeuli (now known as Myeongnyang Strait). temple. The creek’s source is covered by Meomuneun Jip (House Where the Sunset Resides) (+82 11 9404 3234) are recommended to enjoy Sebang Sunset. Rooms cost from 50,000-80,000 won a night. The Prince Motel (+82 61 th The Japanese fleet had accumulated a thick pine forest, designated the 107 542 2251) is a clean, affordable option downtown, and credit cards are accepted. countless victories up to this point, Natural Monument of Korea. Different boosting morale. Learning of the fleet’s species of tree grow in this area, from advance, Yi gathered and commanded camellia and holly to bilberry, and each his last remaining 13 ships to guard the individual tree is hundreds of years old. entrance of Uldolmok on the Yellow Intertwined vines climb the trunks and Sea. The Japanese fleet outnumbered the offer visitors a view of untainted nature. Korean forces by 10 to 1. The mysterious sea road of Jindo can Jindo Hongju liquor View from Nakjo Pension Jindo dog However, there was one thing that middle) (opposite Pension Nakjo right); and left (opposite Agency News Yonhap bottom); (left Organization Tourism Korea © be found past Cheomchalsan. The blue

26 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 27 festival flavor Finding Cool Respite in Naengmyeon Right at the turn of summer, when cool breezes give way to While the idea of iyeol-chiyeol, or fighting the sun’s heat, there’s one particular thought that begins to fire with fire, is one of the most time-tested haunt all locals: a mouth-watering, refreshing bowl of ice- ways to beat the heat during summers in cold naengmyeon, or chilled noodles. Though popular in Korea, a popular alternative is simply to A live performance opens the 2010 Ganghwa Mugwort Festival (above left). Hands-on, educational activities are available for the family (middle, right). Seoul, the secrets of the delectable dish originate in . The two main varieties of naengmyeon arrived cool down with an icy bowl of springy south of the DMZ after the Korean War (1950-1953), by noodles. So if you’re not ready to sweat it and stuffed into pillows and duvets in place of . way of Pyeongyang and Hamheung, the second largest city out, slurp it up. by Ines Min The Ganghwa Agricultural Technology Service Center after the northern capital. The Many hosts the festival at the start of the main harvesting season, at Pyeongyang-style mul-naengmyeon is characterized the 52,900sqm Armiae World - a complex centered around by its , which often includes chunks of crushed ice mugwort that combines an educational space with a processing floating neatly beside the noodles. The broth, made from Uses of plant. This will be Armiae World’s third mugwort festival since a beef or pheasant stock and (radish water it opened in 2009, and a full line-up of events will be offered kimchi), has a light and refreshing taste. The to visitors. At the Agricultural Exhibition Hall, visitors can noodles are topped with julienned cucumbers, Korean Mugwort explore what the life of a farmer was like in old times, and the pear, thinly sliced beef and half of a hard-boiled egg. Mugwort Well-being Hall’s spa room is open for relaxation. Contrasting flavors of lightly sweet and subtle sour are If you’re more familiar with mugwort as an Performances and events will be held during the opening integrated with vinegar and mustard for a layered flavor. unwanted weed peering from roadside on June 4, so entertainment will be available for the whole Noodles representative of Hamheung, on the peninsula’s cracks, take the opportunity to become family. Those who are interested northeast coast, are bibim-naengmyeon, a broth-less reacquainted with the edible green at the in the forms mugwort takes variation known for its zesty , or red pepper when placed on the dinner paste, sauce. The noodles are often made of a sweet by Ines Min Ganghwa Mugwort Festival. table should peruse the foods starch, as opposed to buckwheat, which lend it a darker exhibition. Popular mugwort color and al dente chew. Similar to its sister dish, cucumber, dishes include colorful variations pear and egg are added, though flavored with vinegar and Mugwort might not be synonymous with “mmm” in the West, of (rice cakes) and ssukguk sugar, to balance out the but the plant, called ssuk in Korean, carries within its verdant (mugwort soup), but it can also be used roaring spiciness of the Hot Spots leaves a bounty of healthy vitamins. The annual Ganghwa in (side dishes) and even juices. gochujang. Mugwort Festival (June 4 to 6) helps introduce those known Mugwort beef and naengmyeon (chilled One well-known trait Woo Lae Oak A family-run properties to the rest of the world. Ganghwado Island, located noodles) will also be available to those of naengmyeon is the restaurant that has branched all the way to the US and one of the oldest northwest of Seoul, is famous for its medicinal mugwort, hungry festivalgoers. long strands of noodles. naengmyeon establishments. which grows in the Yellow Sea’s salty winds. Symbolic of longevity, it 118 Jugyo-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Mugwort is most popularly known as a health food across is traditional to leave the Phone: +82 2 2265 0151 How to get there Ohjangdong Hamheung Korea, but Ganghwado’s variety carries a strong aroma and noodles at their original Naengmyeon A popular stop for bitter taste that makes it well adapted for medicinal uses (in Ganghwado Island is located northwest of length, although most spicy bibim-naengmyeon lovers and 2010 alone, Ganghwa-gun produced 397 tons). It can be drunk Seoul and can be reached by bus (under two people today will cut well-known for its delectable hours) from anywhere in the capital. For seafood variety. in the form of tea to prevent ulcers, added to baths for a body- detailed information on directions, visit the noodles for easier 90-10 Ojang-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul http://armiae.com/eng/about/map.asp. Phone: +82 2 2267 9500 A refreshing bowl of bibim-naengmyeon is served. soothing experience and to increase circulation, or even dried (right) Sang-mooh Han below); (opposite Images Topic top); (opposite Festival Mugwort Ganghwa © consumption.

28 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 29 now in korea The Show

When films like The Happy Life (2007) and Bravo, My Life (2005) were released, most people found the storylines of determined, amateur musicians to be far-fetched. But contrary to what the skeptics might think, there are those who do put their ambitious dreams to action. by Lim Ji-young | photographs by Kim Hong-jin

Gapgeunse Band practices in a studio (above). A “silver” band, comprised of elderly members, perform in an outdoor concert (right). Cloud Band plays a set at a concert (far right). © Yonhap News Agency (left bottom); Cloud Band Cloud bottom); (left Agency News Yonhap ©

30 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 31 Surprisingly, there are a number of and had to take out a loan for the deposit. Later, we paid it after 6pm. “I am afraid that my colleagues will find out what amateur office workers’ bands that back with membership fees and income from events. It is now I do after I leave the office. I don’t think that they’ll be happy are as passionate as those featured our own space, but even with all the teams rotating practices, about it. And I don’t want others to think that I’m focusing in recent films. The nonfiction book there’s not always enough time for everyone,” he says. more on my music than my work, so I keep my band a secret Office Workers’ Bands That Start at even though I’m proud to be doing it.” 30 contains stories of exactly those Networks Built on Music In the early days of office people in Korea. The main band workers’ bands, groups were formed with close colleagues Living the Dream As the workers’ band trend grows, people depicted in the novel, Office Workers’ and friends. These days, musicians can look for other possible have also come to love the music of the older, amateur bands. Band in its 40s, is especially eminent bandmates through online classifieds and related sites. An Local festivals and events provide these groups with a stage, among the local scene. The distinct Tae-han, guitar player for Triple A says, “We formed our while an increasing number of businesses have asked them to hodgepodge of band members, from band through the help-wanted ads. We only began last participate in promotional events. author of the book Jeon Mi-young - March, so we’re still recruiting members like a bass player and There are at least 10 national competitions for office workers who was persuaded by the middle- keyboardist. We’re waiting for applicants from the ads.” today, including KBS’ Top Band, which holds auditions to aged engineers to become their As helpful as the Internet has been in creating new groups, find the best group. “We actually need to limit the number synthesizer player - to drummer it is now as equally easy to disband. Online-based groups seem of participants, because there are so many interested in Stick Man who is the oldest member to be less cohesive than offline-based bands, and it’s common participating in the contests,” says Kim Neung-Soo, the events and Mr Synthe who commutes just to find band members leaving one group for another that director. for band practice, relay enthused better fits their taste in music. In some cases, some disband While some bands work with original songs, many pull in stories about their experiences. One simply because it’s difficult to match schedules. Business trips, the crowds by playing covers of past hits, catering to audiences of the most endearing dreams of the overtime and unemployment can also affect stability, and of all ages. Because of their popular appeal and familiar band is to simply play a rocking rendition of Deep Purple’s “I thought about the KBS program Campus 7080, and that many bands see high turnover through the years. repertoire, they’re able to gain greater audience participation difficultHighway Star, which they finally do with practice and show reminded me of my old singing days in school. I thought It’s difficult for some to integrate their musical lives with from diverse crowds. determination. The author, who initially doubted her own about organizing a band again and, coincidentally, met my their office ones. Kang Hyung-Seok, a member of a new band, Slowly, as the workers’ band gains wider recognition, musical skills, transforms the tale into one of and middle school alumni, and we head into a band practice confesses that his colleagues have no idea where he heads to they’re also able to focus more on their music for a living and humanism. room,” Cho says. As they began to gain popularity through represent their craft in concerts across the country. More than

One factor in the recent resurgence of office workers’ bands media outlets, other workers began to show interest, heading (Clockwise from for simple financial reasons though, they play music to fill an is the coming of age of musicians in two major 1970s music to the Web in order to meet and organize new bands. By the right) Gapgeunse emotional desire. Band performs in competitions: the University Music Festival and the Riverside mid-2000s, the fever of office groups had spread and a number Yeouido in spring; “We feel a sense of catharsis when playing music. In the Song Festival, both hosted by MBC. At that time, many student of Internet groups and sites began to appear. The 7080 Office office, we can’t let out our stress because we’re just a part of Workers’ Band plays bands were formed just so they could compete in the festivals. The Korea Arts and Culture Education Service decided to a concert in 2010; A a bigger organization. But we can work off our energy and saxophonist from With most of the key members from the then-numerous provide support to the Mapo Art Center’s Office Workers’ Gapguense Band spirits through the bands now in their 40s or 50s, some were influenced at least in Band Promotion Project. “We selected four teams, prepared plays from sheet band. It’s like there’s a music. Feel Band part by the band culture of their time. practice rooms for them and supported them with lessons plays a live set for a closed off, dark prison concert at the from expert instructors for every musical instrument. After National Theater of and our music is the The Nostalgic Band Boom One of the inaugural office six months of training, they were offered an opportunity to Korea (opposite). small window that workers’ bands in Korea is the Gapgeunse Band, which formed perform at Mapo Art Center,” a center spokesperson says. leads outside,” says in 1998. Gapguense, which means “Grade A Income Tax,” It is estimated that the current number of workers’ bands in Goo Ja-jung, leader of became the talk of offices across town for both its clever name Korea is anywhere from 2,000 to 3,000. Along with this rapid Gapgeunse Band. and fresh sound. growth, related performance agencies and competitions were Office workers’ Cho Young-Min, a former vocalist in a university group and created, and websites connecting sponsors (both private and bands do not work member of Jeongdeun Band, is now one of the managers of the governmental) and studios exploded in the Sinchon, Hongik solely on musical online 7080 Office Workers’ Band Cafe. Ten complete bands, University, Konkuk University and Bangbae-dong areas. instruments, but their including the official 7080 Office Workers’ Band, Jeongdeun Most workers’ bands collect dues from members in order hearts. They awaken Band, Triple A and Sunday Seoul, are members of the Internet to rent a practice room, while the 7080 cafe has its own space their own basic site that seeks to introduce and collaborate with peers. in Yongsan. But the group has had difficulties of its own, says instincts with their Established in 2004, the Internet group now has a membership Cho, who speaks candidly of the financial difficulties he faced passionate, thrilling

of roughly 3,400. in the beginning. “We bought a monthly rental practice room (opposite) Band Feel (right); Band Workers’ Office 7080 (top); Band Gapgeunse © notes.

32 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 33 special issue

This year marks the 61st anniversary of the Korean War (1950-1953) and the 60th anniversary of the decisive battles of Gapyeong and Imjin, where more than 1,100 international soldiers were lost. The allies who fought are commemorated each June in Korea alongside domestic veterans, and this year, the world continued to remember the past heroism and suffering of those soldiers.

GREATS OF BATTLE RECALLED On April 22, 1951, battalions from Australia and Canada helped defend the route to Seoul from the Chinese Communists along the Gapyeonggang River for three days. The rd3 Battalion (Royal Australian Regiment) and the 2nd Battalion (Princess Patricia’s Canadian

Light Infantry), along with the UN (Clockwise, from opposite top) Some 230 Imjin and Gapyeong Battle veterans gather at the Seoul forces, fought valiantly to protect the National Cemetery on April 21. Australian Prime Minister Julia Gillard stands with vets in Gapyeong; Vets reunite at the Incheon International Airport; US Rep Charles Rangel is honored for his service. capital. Though outnumbered by the 10,000-strong opposition, the forces won a victory for the UN command. Shouldering the bulk of the battle, the GOING HOME In early May, the remains On an official visit to , brigade was successful in stopping of RAF Flight Lieutenant Desmond Allied Korean War Vets Prime Minister of Australia Julia Gillard Chinese forces from reaching the capital Hinton were returned to his nation, visited the War Memorial of Korea, of Seoul. following a ceremony at the DMZ, becoming the first in the Australian where British Ambassador to North Earn Recognition government to commemorate the fallen PATRIOTIC HONORS In the United Korea Peter Hughes received the The 60th anniversary of the Korean War last year reminded many of the long, difficult heroes of Gapyeong in Korea. Joined by States, President Barack Obama showed remains. Hinton’s fate, whose plane had 22 Australian veterans, some of whom appreciation for vets of the Korean War been shot down in January 1952, was struggles it took to reach the present day. International allies came to the aid of Korea, and were making their first return to Korea by posthumously awarding the Medal lost to his family for 60 years. while it may be called the “Forgotten War,” veterans were once more remembered across the in six decades, Gillard recognized all the of Honor to two soldiers: Anthony T The remains of others have also world with honor this year. by Ines Min lives that had been lost. Kaho’ohanohano of Maui, Hawaii, and been returned, such as those of Primo “No one who fought, who suffered, Henry Svehla of Newark, NJ, earned the Carnabuci, which were flown to who died during those 1,000 bloody US’ highest honor. Kaho’ohanohano was Connecticut last month. Last seen days, will ever be forgotten,” Gillard said a mere 19 years old, while Svehla was during battle, Carnabuci and 600 other at the event. no more than 21. Both of them died in US soldiers have been listed MIA since Other veterans paid tribute to the combat, refusing to retreat in front of 1950. His older brother Dominic held anniversary in a visit to Seoul National their foes. out for news, and he finally received it Cemetery in late April, with more than “In the hearts of their families, earlier this year. Though the war cannot 200 vets from Canada, the UK, New they remain forever young. Today, we be undone, Carnabuci is still glad to Zealand and Australia. The Imjin Battle, honor them with the highest military have his sibling home. “When they put which took place at the same time as decoration that our nation can bestow: him in ground, I’ll feel better, relaxed,” Gapyeong, was won with the strength the Medal of Honor,” Obama said in the he told a local paper. “I’ll know where he th

© Yonhap News Agency (left, far left, opposite); The Dong-a Ilbo (top) Ilbo Dong-a The opposite); left, far (left, Agency News Yonhap © of the British 29 Infantry Brigade. presentation ceremony. is now.”

34 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 35 special issue

Over 300 young French teenagers suddenly swarmed in front don’t sing very well and don’t really care about their looks,” of the iconic glass pyramid of the Louvre in Paris around 3pm says Maxime Paquet, president of Korean Connection. on May 1. Faces pink with excitement, they started to sing A remote region in India called Manipur is another area along to their favorite K-pop songs, frantically waving photos where Hallyu is significant. In October last year, BBC’s news of boy bands like Super Junior and SHINee. Some expertly program Close-Up featured a series on Indians who are rubbed their hands as if doing a prayer, others danced to Super influenced by Korea’s pop culture. According to the footage, Junior’s Sorry, Sorry. many street vendors sell DVDs of Korean films, TV dramas What the ardent K-pop fans wanted was a second show and CDs of K-pop stars. Photos of Korean celebrities cover the of SM Town Live in Paris. They led the protest for an hour, walls of hair salons, which recommend “Korean-style” cuts. arguing that otherwise they would have no choice but to Manipur became completely hooked on Korea’s pop culture buy tickets resold through the Internet for a whopping 500 soon after Arirang TV, Korea’s 24-hour English-language euros. When ticket sales for SM Town Live in Paris, SM network, and KBS World began airing there. They became Entertainment’s first-ever concert at Le Zénith de Paris on June entertainment alternatives after Bollywood films were banned 10 opened on April 26, the show completely sold out within by secessionist groups.

(From left) Pencil Pictures shoots a scene for Hello Stranger at the Cheonggyecheon Stream; Thai actors pose in Myeong- Hallyu Steps it Up dong; cameras set up in Seoul for a TV drama.

15 minutes. SM Entertainment is one of South Korea’s biggest A Cultural Springboard Seoul is rising as a hot shooting entertainment agencies and manages the popular K-pop location among Southeast Asian filmmakers ever sinceHello groups TVXQ, Super Junior, SHINee and Girls’ Generation. Stranger, a Thai rom-com flick filmed in Seoul, became a Luckily, the K-pop fans’ dreams came true. SM Entertainment big hit in its home country. It topped the Thai box office for announced in late May that a second concert will be held on several months and won many local awards, including the best June 11, after realizing the force of the K-pop fans in France. actress award at the Thai Annual Film Festival 2010, shooting The tickets sold out again, this time in 10 minutes. female lead Nuengthida Sophon into the spotlight. “We figured that setting the movie’s backdrop as Seoul was A Wave Has its Reasons Though it is situated thousands the reason for the success and decided to shoot two more of miles away, France is one of the countries most affected by movies there,” says an official from Pencil Pictures, the film’s Hallyu, or the Korean wave. France’s 2TV aired a 30-minute producer. The production house had discovered the beauty long program focusing on how K-pop, Korean dramas and of Korea as a backdrop in 2010, when it shot a TV drama, films are sweeping the nation. For two weeks in April, 54 The Calling of Nami Island, in Seoul. In April, Pencil Pictures French girls in their late teens and early 20s visited Korea to brought two Malaysian works - TV drama No Marked meet their beloved K-pop groups. Organized by the Korea Grave and the film I Have … You? - to film in Seoul at Tourism Organization and Korean Connection, a prominent Cheonggyecheon Stream, Mount Namsan, Dongdaemun and Hallyu, or the Korean wave, is not just a passing craze in nearby Asian countries. Hallyu fan club in France, the trip allowed the girls to visit the Myeong-dong area. Unexpected parts of the world like Paris and Manipur, a rural area in India, are hooked on the studio of a popular music show and attend a SHINee fan The Seoul Metropolitan Government has been giving them Korean pop culture for their own reasons. In Southeast Asian countries where the Korean meeting. a boost, running a program to support 25% of the production culture is already deeply immersed, the Korean wave is taking on the role of a springboard “K-pop singers are complete artists and entertainers. They costs (capped at 100 million won) spent in Seoul for movies or to create new cultural content. by Park Min-young can sing, they can dance and they look very trendy ... This is dramas that feature the city. It also licenses permits to shoot the main difference with French singers who mainly prefer films in public areas, restricts traffic and even provides safety

© Seoul Metropolitan City (right above); Yonhap News Agency (opposite bottom); SM Entertainment (opposite top) (opposite Entertainment SM bottom); (opposite Agency News Yonhap above); (right City Metropolitan Seoul © to focus on the lyrics and almost never dance. Many of them helicopters in case of fire.

36 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 37 summit diplomacy

President Lee Myung-bak and first lady Kim Yoon-ok visited Germany from May 8 to 11, Builds Bridges for a seven-day European trip. Following the official visit to Germany, a state visit to Denmark took place from May 11 to 12 and to Europe an official visit to France took place from May 12 to 14. Lee’s visit to Europe came in an Europe has always been a significant economic, trade and cultural partner for Korea. important time, shortly after South Korea’s During a seven-day trip to Germany, Denmark and France in May, President Lee Myung- National Assembly approved a free trade bak met with state leaders as well as top policymakers, businessmen and scholars of the agreement with the European Union. The three European nations to take Korea’s ties to the next level. by Ser Myo-ja trade pact, which the European Parliament the international community, I am willing already approved in February, takes effect to invite North Korean [National Defense on July 1, and will lift most tariff and trade Commission] Chairman Kim Jong-il to Seoul barriers between the two sides in the next for the Second Nuclear Security Summit, five years. where about 50 leaders from around the During his trip, Lee paid special attention world will participate,” Lee said in a joint to improving Korea’s economic and trade news conference with Merkel. “It will be ties with Europe. “The outcome will be an opportunity for the North to receive a a drastic enhancement of cooperative guarantee for a brighter future.” relations between Korea and its important About 50 global leaders, including US trading partners in Europe,” said the The procession of Danish Queen Margrethe II President Barack Obama, will attend the leads President Lee Myung-bak to Fredensborg Korean presidential office, Cheong Wa Dae Palace in Copenhagen on May 11 (top). Lee Nuclear Security Summit in Seoul next (the Blue House). The European tour also commemorates war veterans from the Korean spring to discuss efforts to make the world War during his visit to Paris on May 13 (above). served as a milestone toward building a more safe. The inaugural summit was Lee walks with ’s mayor Klaus Wowereit in special relationship with Europe, especially front of Brandenburg Gate on May 9 (opposite). hosted by Obama in Washington in April in the field of green growth cooperation. 2010. President Lee’s signature campaign of low- The two have been separated carbon green growth has been welcomed North, adding that he believes the historic since the Korean War (1950-1953) ended in by European nations, especially Germany event will take place in the future “not far a truce. Tensions on the Korean Peninsula and Denmark. away.” have grown steadily due to North Korea’s Other issues, such as efforts to reunify Calling Pyeongyang’s nuclear arms nuclear and missile programs. While six- the two Koreas and cooperation with programs an obstacle to unification, he party talks attended by the two Koreas, France for the upcoming Group of 20 urged the North to give up the weapons China, Japan, Russia and the United States Summit, were also discussed. Korea is programs for peace and prosperity. were stalled for years, the North carried the outgoing chair of the G20 Summit, “The existence of nuclear weapons on out two deadly attacks on the South in and France is the incoming host of the the Korean Peninsula will only delay March and November last year. important global gathering slated to take unification. If we are unified while Lee’s proposal, if realized, will serve place in November. possessing nuclear weapons, neighboring as an epoch-making international debut countries won’t easily accept it,” the for the reclusive North Korean leader. PURSUING KOREAN UNIFICATION The president said. “Though there are various Although North Korea issued a statement first stop of Lee’s busy schedule in Europe difficulties, I firmly believe that we have to to criticize President Lee’s offer, Blue House was Berlin, and he began the trip with an realize unification.” officials said more efforts will be made to informal meeting with Korean residents On May 9, following a summit meeting communicate with Pyeongyang about the on the evening of May 8. During the with German Chancellor Angela Merkel, proposal. meeting in the symbolic city of German Lee made an important proposal to North The following day, Lee met with four reunification, the president stressed that Korean leader Kim Jong-il. “If North Korea former German officials who were deeply

© (opposite); Yonhap News Agency News Yonhap (opposite); Ilbo Chosun The © the South will seek unification with the agrees to denuclearize in a firm promise to involved in the 1990 unification of East

38 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 39 growth,” said Kim Sang-hyup, secretary to investing in Korea will create a bridge to a in 2004, Korea’s FTAs with 16 economies the president for the national future and broader market,” Lee said. “I hope German including, Peru, ASEAN and India, have vision and the architect of Lee’s low-carbon businesspeople understand that investing already taken effect. green growth policy. According to the Blue in Korea will not only open up ways to During his meeting with business leaders House, Denmark has declared its intent to enter the Asian market, but also the United in Denmark on May 12, Lee also expressed completely eliminate the use of fossil fuels States.” strong hope for increased bilateral trade starting in 2050. Denmark has decided to Building a free trade network is one and investments, his spokeswoman Kim choose Korea as its green growth partner of President Lee’s key economic visions, Hee-jung said. as the country has seen the 600% growth as Korea is highly dependent on exports. Another achievement of President Lee’s in the renewable energy industries and In addition to the Korea-EU FTA, another economic diplomacy was his agreement rapid development in electronic cars, LED important free trade agreement with the with French President Nicolas Sarkozy. and smart grids over the past three years United States was concluded last year and is During a summit on May 13, the two under Lee’s trademark policy, Blue House waiting to be ratified by the two countries’ leaders agreed to step up cooperation sources said. legislatures. Since the first FTA with Chile to ensure that the members of the G20 will follow through with their previous ECONOMIC DIPLOMACY AT WORK South commitments to overcome the global Korea is the first Asian nation to sign a President Lee Myung-bak, center, observes the financial meltdown. New agendas of food flag of the French Korean War veterans in Paris on free trade agreement with the EU, and April 13 (below). First lady Kim Yoon-ok attends a and energy security were also discussed by the trade accord will take effect on July 1 “Forest Kindergarten” in Copenhagen on April 12 the two leaders. to lift most trade and investment barriers during a state visit (bottom). “France and Korea express their shared between the two sides. concerns about commodity markets. They Lee’s trip included meetings with are determined to work on concrete and and West Germany and discussed efforts to President Lee Myung-bak, third from left, toasts new direction, urging other countries to economic policymakers and business operational solutions to reduce food and better prepare South Korea for unification. with Queen Margrethe II at an official state join their move. leaders in Germany, Denmark and France. energy price volatility and mitigate its dinner at Fredensborg Palace in Copenhagen, The German participants included Lothar Denmark, on May 11. A key element of Korea-Denmark In a roundtable discussion in Frankfurt on impacts on the most vulnerable,” according de Maizière, the only freely-elected prime green growth alliance was the Global May 10 with senior executives of Germany’s to a joint statement issued after the minister of East Germany, and Wolfgang Green Growth Institute, an international top companies, Lee urged the German summit. Schäuble, the former West German interior commitment to support environmentally- think tank launched by Korea last year. firms to expand their investments in The two leaders also reaffirmed minister who signed the reunification friendly technologies and open up new A Copenhagen branch of the institute, Korea and benefit from his country’s free their joint efforts to “ensure a strong, treaty in 1990. markets for green products and services. the first overseas office of the project, trade network. “For German companies, sustainable and balanced growth” at the The two leaders also announced the was formally launched on May 12 and next G20 Summit. They also urged the ADVOCATING GREEN GROWTH Perhaps the establishment of strategic partnership Lee attended the opening ceremony to global community to strengthen their most successful achievement of President to expand bilateral cooperation in the welcome Denmark’s participation in the oversight of the financial industries. Lee’s visit to Europe was his promotion political, security, economic and trade project. Nine MOUs were also signed Korea and France are two of the three of green growth. During the Korea- arenas. between Korea’s Ministry of Knowledge members of the G20 “troika,” which Germany summit, Lee and Merkel agreed “The two leaders emphasized the Economy and Denmark’s Ministry of represents the past, present and future to improve the two countries’ cooperation importance of green growth as a tool for Climate and Energy as well as between the chairs of the premier economic forum. in environmentally-friendly projects. the creation of employment, prosperity enterprises of the two countries to further Korea chaired the G20 Summit last year, Green growth was the absolute and protection of biodiversity, as well as bilateral cooperation of renewable energy and France will host this year’s event in highlight of President Lee’s trip to in contributing to global CO2 reductions, and other green technologies. Cannes in November. Denmark, which took place from May 11 reducing environmental risks and The two leaders also agreed to hold a In France, Lee also attended a forum to 12. Lee is the first Korean president promoting sustainable use of natural global green growth summit in June in for South Korean and French business to make a state visit to Denmark since resources,” the joint statement said. Seoul. Denmark will host the first global representatives, and met with Angel the two nations established diplomatic Calling Denmark a “first mover” and green growth forum in October and Gurría, the secretary-general of the OECD, relations in 1959. Lee and Danish Prime South Korea a “fast mover” in green Korea will host the second event in June to discuss bilateral and global economic Minister Lars Rasmussen held a summit on technologies, Lee said the alliance made next year. issues. May 12 and announced an unprecedented the two countries “green growth smart “Denmark is a frontrunner of Wrapping up the three-nation trip, Lee

“Green Growth Alliance” to declare their movers” to lead the world economy to a environmentally-friendly economic Agency News Yonhap © returned to Korea on May 15.

40 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 41 global korea

Love without

Borders Korea is proud to be a country that sends medical volunteers overseas, but in the past decade there has been a particularly sharp Doctors collaborate with volunteer organizations to help rise in the number of its nationals being bring medicine and health care to people in underprivileged dispatched to every corner of the world. situations. A recent rise in medical volunteers from Korea Organizations running medical volunteer programs for the underprivileged in brings the focus to these individuals. by Lee Se-mi poorer nations are generally divided into government agencies, NGOs and religious institutions. These people help organize groups of medical and administrative personnel to engage in medical volunteer work. A project with one of these groups can last anywhere from one or two weeks to a couple of months, in order to help those who need it most battle poverty and illness. The Korean government has been sending medical personnel overseas since it first sent trained individuals to remote parts of Africa in 1968. For the next 40 years, up until 2008, it sent a total of 115 doctors to help the sick in Africa, Asia, the CIS, Central and South America and the South Pacific. These men and women have devoted themselves to the prevention and treatment of illnesses despite the immense medical challenges they faced. On top of that, more than 60 groups made up of NGOs, missionaries, university students and medical institution employees have gone overseas as medical volunteers more than once between 2007 and 2009, and that number is growing every year.

EMPOWERING COMMUNITIES Vision Care Service is Korea’s largest ophthalmological A volunteer from Good News Medical Volunteers in Cambodia, , , Laos, Sri NGO, and is registered at the World Health organizes recreational activities in Ghana (top). Lanka, Malawi and . Cambodia’s first World Vision Korea donates bicycle ambulances Organization’s International Agency for to Zambia (above). A Good News volunteer Free Eye Camp operated out of the capital, the Prevention of Blindness. The group, examines a patient in Malawi (opposite). Phnom Penh, in September 2007. which consists of ophthalmologists, nurses These camps usually take at least a year and opticians, has offered free operations to set up, as research first needs to be to people in underdeveloped countries with serious eye problems, especially done on local medical conditions, such as since 2002. These volunteers focus their cataract surgery. To date, more than 6,500 the state of ophthalmology in a particular attention on the treatment of cataracts patients in 23 countries have benefited place, the general healthcare level, and and ran more than 20 camps a year up until from the 76 camps. The camps operate in local organizations or hospitals that can 2010. The camps, called Free Eye Camp, Asia and southeastern Africa. Starting in be worked with. In addition, medical

© Good News Medical Volunteers (opposite, right above); World Vision Korea (right bottom) (right Korea Vision World above); right (opposite, Volunteers Medical News Good © offer free medical treatment to people Karachi, Pakistan, they have also been run volunteers often pay for their own airfare,

42 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 43 operations and medical supplies, while also who are part of the lowest tier in terms of to participating doctors so that they services offered is expected to expand in providing free medical services on a regular basic health care indexes, which include could work in conjunction with Malawi the summer of 2011. basis to local residents. the mortality rate of children under five, medical staff. In addition, medical students Park Jin-young, an emergency medical the maternal mortality rate childhood from Kenya had a chance to learn about technician who has been participating in WHAT TO DO There has been a growing malnutrition. advanced medical technology, assisting volunteering programs in Africa for three awareness that prevention in partnership As one person from World Vision put Korean medical personnel with treatments years through the Good News Medical with local communities is more important it, “It’s difficult to have access to quality and operations. Volunteers, says, “I don’t even remember than simple firsthand treatment. Medical health care service in rural areas, where When the Haitian government had to the patients I treat because there are more volunteer activities in areas that have little 60% of Zambians reside, due to the high deal with an outbreak of cholera after than 1,000 of them a day. Still, when I access to health care are just stop-gap infection rate of HIV/AIDS, a lack of medical the earthquake in January 2010, the return the following year, someone always measures. Thus, many volunteer groups personnel, lack of funds and transportation Good News Medical Volunteers answered remembers me clearly. The destitute are turning their attention to long-term problems. What is needed most is to the call by sending 25 volunteers. They conditions I have seen there and the spirit projects to enhance the overall health care prevent malaria and diarrhea, both of worked with local medical personnel and of the people make me return to Africa level of an area by improving the health which are common in children who are volunteers to treat 7,400 patients over every year.” industry, while putting an emphasis on exposed to unsanitary conditions, and to seven days. In addition, the International Instead of just increasing the scale education and training. provide adequate health care to pregnant Youth Fellowship held youth camps in 40 of aid, a growing number of volunteer World Vision Korea became financially women.” Action is now being taken to countries around the world in 2011. Last groups are focusing on offering medical independent from World Vision achieve these goals by establishing a unit January, Thai medical workers volunteered assistance to improve the quality of life for International in 1991, and is currently just for mothers in hospitals and a shelter, in Africa through one of the camps people around the world. Overseas medical engaged in a project to enhance health delivering education on general health based in Pattaya, Thailand. With Chinese volunteers become more empowered food and housing. On average, one Vision A patient hugs her doctor from Vision Care care for women and children in Mumbwa, care, treating children’s illnesses, providing volunteers now joining the Good News when they work in close cooperation with Care Service volunteer camp can help Service after undergoing surgery in Pakistan Zambia, in alliance with World Vision ambulances, building drinking water Medical Volunteers, the scope of medical governments and local communities. (above). Volunteers from Vision Care Service up to 620 patients and perform 95 free wheelchair a patient following his eye surgery in Zambia, Zambia’s health authorities and fountains and offering medical supplies. surgeries. The ultimate goal of the group, a Malawi Free Eye Camp (below). the local government of Mumbwa. The The Good News Medical Volunteers however, is to transfer both technology five-year project, set to run from July 2009 is an organization that was launched Global Korea chart and knowledge to local medical personnel, to 2014, aims to help improve the health by seven members of the International This data comes from a survey conducted by the Korea Foundation for International enabling them to take care of local active in 22 overseas branches from Beijing, and nutrition of women and children Youth Fellowship. They met at a youth Healthcare (KOFIH) between Oct 26-Nov 8, 2009. Respondents included people from 62 residents independently. Vladivostok and Urumqi to Myanmar, New camp in Africa in 2008 and decided to groups that sent medical volunteers overseas: domestic NGOs, medical missionaries and In 2010, a Vision Care Service camp was York and Missouri. They not only support start a medical volunteer group on their university groups. KOFIH is a professional health care aid organization under Korea’s held in Ethiopia for local war veterans and the underprivileged and foreign laborers own. The Good News Medical Volunteers Ministry of Health and Welfare, and conducts medical support projects. staffed by 200 Korean War veterans and in Korea with free medical service, but is made up of surgeons, physicians, Overseas Medical volunteer activities their family members. Organized on the also send volunteers overseas for medical pediatricians, dentists and pharmacists. Unit: percent, multiple answers 60th anniversary of the Korean War, Vision services in underdeveloped areas and The group recruited 105 medical personnel 94.6

Care Service carried out the camp when disaster zones. in 2009 and started volunteering at once, 57.1 51.8 they found out there were Korean War vets Its first overseas volunteers were as governments in Ghana, Kenya and 46.4 42.9 28.6 in the area in 2008. Most of the veterans dispatched to Yanbian, China, in 2002. Tanzania helped with visa waiver programs 10.7 7.1 were over 80 years old and suffering from The group’s mission was later expanded and found them places to work. The cataracts. After establishing a branch in to help cover those affected by disaster, volunteers treated 1,000 patients a day Free Health care Establishing Inviting Training local Enhancing Vaccinations Other (e.g., treatment education facilities patients for personnel living donating Ethiopia, Vision Care Service now has including earthquake victims in , on average and delivered courses on basic surgery conditions equipment) plans to open camps in 13 African nations, Pakistan, and Sichuan, China. health care. including Swaziland, Zimbabwe, Botswana, When a powerful cyclone hit Myanmar in When the Good News Medical medical volunteer dispatch locations Unit: percent, multiple answers Actual Planned for 2010 Mozambique, Zambia, Malawi, Burundi, 2008, 13 medical personnel went to help Volunteers made their third trip to Africa 71.4 62.5 Tanzania, Kenya and Uganda, over the next and contributed in saving many lives. In for a month in July 2010, a total of 256 46.4 44.6 four years. addition, they established a Green Doctors medical workers and other volunteers 35.7 33.9 26.8 25.0 Founded in 2004, Green Doctors is a hospital in Dala, a village that had been visited Ghana, Togo, Benin, Kenya and 23.2 19.6 8.9 Korean NGO that was based on another completely destroyed by the cyclone, Malawi. Malawi’s Health Ministry allowed 5.4 3.6 5.4 5.4 volunteer group organized in 1997. Today, hiring a local physician, dentist, and two them to use a national hospital with 2,000 Southeast South Asia North CIS Central and Other None Asia America South

they have more than 30,000 members nurses. Green Doctors paid for the cost of Service Care Vision © beds and issued temporary medical licenses America

44 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 45 my korea

Pigs have always been a constant feature in my life, since But in a certain season each year, a particularly odiferous long before I came to live in Korea. In one form or another - and unmistakable fragrance from our neighbor’s pig farm though not really inhabiting my daily thoughts - pigs have on top of the hill reminded me that pigs do most definitely loitered on the fringes of my life. exist. Even today, coincidentally, before I’d even had the I’ve never tried to ride a greased pig, but I do admit that, slightest notion I’d be writing an article about a pig ceremony, growing up as a child on a farm on Prince Edward Island in I named my percussion group Seoul Rhythm Pig. Pigs are just eastern Canada, I did indeed try to ride an everyday, run of everywhere, even if you don’t notice them. the mill, ungreased pig. I’ve never seen the proverbial pigs As to whether or not pigs should be thought of in positive fly, though I have on occasion enjoyed listening toPigs on the or negative terms in daily life, I was a bit ambivalent. I just Wing by Pink Floyd. I’ve enjoyed their culinary offerings and never gave much thought to them before Korea. Whether or delighted in cute piglets squealing in the pen and scrambling not we of the Western world can decide on whether pigs are for scraps my grandfather would dump into their pen. Ours cute and clever, or smelly and unfortunate animals, one thing wasn’t primarily a pig farm, however, and we just had a few is for sure: in Korea, pigs are lucky. If you’ve lived here for any that we would raise for our own meat. It was a small farm with amount of time, you’ve probably heard a Korean friend or seldom more than 10 of any animal at any given time. coworker tell you how lucky you are if you have a “pig dream.” And I, bent more on becoming the next Keith Moon or They are symbolic of riches and good fortune, and are also John Bonham, didn’t really spend as much time feeding cows, said to ward off bad luck. or shoveling that smelly gold that made crops grow, as my I wondered where this belief came from. Talking with my father would have liked. I was constantly aware that we had wife, who is Korean, and her friends, they speculated that pigs, cows and horses, yet I didn’t really give much thought to perhaps it was because pigs have many babies. So in terms of them. At times you could almost forget there even were such reproduction, they are productive, which could be a metaphor creatures as pigs, being more interested in soccer balls, playing for the productivity you hope your business has. At first, I hockey in my grandmother’s kitchen or beating drums. was surprised that they didn’t know automatically why pigs Dreaming of pigs Exploring Gosa Ceremonies A Canadian expat goes to a traditional Gosa ceremony, a folk ritual that comprises showing respect to a pig’s head. Practiced to ward off bad luck and bring good fortune when a new business is opened, a new house is built, to appease the spirits and just because it’s tradition, the ceremony is one of the unique aspects of life in Korea. And, whether or not you believe in it, Gosa holds a certain charm.

46 | korea | june 2011 www.korea.net | 47 represent such good fortune, congratulations and wishes of good luck were all present, but, thinking more on it, I standard to any gallery opening. But then my eyes made realized that it’s similar a beeline to a table with an abundant spread of food: rice to my way of using cake, seaweed soup, fruit and vegetables, all lorded over by a idioms. When my severed pig’s head. The head sat in the middle, like the center students ask me why of a shrine. I thought to myself, “What’s going on? Do they a phrase means what have voodoo in Korea?” I was pretty sure they didn’t practice it does, I struggle to voodoo, and mentally reminded myself not to watch so many give them a good movies. answer. It’s one of As I watched, people bowed to the pig, on their knees with those things; I just say it their foreheads to the ground, palms on the floor, in what because it’s what people say. looked like a form of Buddhist prostration. I’ve since learned If you are an expat in Korea or even just a visiting tourist that this bow shows up in many other traditional Korean wandering around or one of the many ceremonies. Koreans do it to pay one’s respects to the deceased sijang (traditional markets), you are likely to see a pig’s head during (ancestral rites) on the anniversary of their passing. among the mazes of stalls. It was at Namdaemun that I saw Children perform the bow to their elders on seollal, the lunar my first pig’s head - I remember thinking how exotic it was. It New Year, and I did the same to my wife’s parents when we was one of those things that makes you reach for you camera, were married. makes you feel like you need to show this to folks back home. As if the presence of the pig’s head and the bowing were If you are staying in Korea for a little longer, you will probably not bizarre enough to my expat eyes, people were also placing make Korean friends, and those friends will invite you to colorful bills into the pig’s nose, mouth and ears - basically weddings, first year birthday parties and, if you’re really lucky, any orifice. I followed suit but later, upon researching Gosa perhaps a friend will open a new business and invite you to a more thoroughly, I regret that I only offered a mere 10,000 Gosa ceremony. Just such a thing happened to me. won (US$9). I was later told by a friend that if it’s the Gosa It was about four years ago while I was living in Ansan, a of a close acquaintance, offering upwards of 100,000 won is satellite city to the south of Seoul, where I made my home for considered acceptable. four years. I used to play drums with some Korean musicians The ceremony is based on a shamanistic ritual, of which every weekend at a bar that is no more. One of the regulars there are many in Korea, some of which offer food and drink who came and always watched us play was a local painter to spirits or ancestors. In this particular ceremony, the pig’s name Du Chan. Although Du Chan spoke little English and head is placed in the middle of the table, then other incense, my Korean was pretty bad, we soon became friends. He would fruits, tteok (rice cakes) and more are organized around the say things like “you drum power,” and I would smile and try to centerpiece. You then bow to bring good luck and bounty, make small talk in turn. and to protect the new venture from misfortune or angry Later when he established his own art studio, he invited spirits. Afterward, you offer the pig money, and it’s said that it’s me to the opening. I accepted the invitation with keen good luck if it’s is expectations that I’d be able to drink in his creations and match smiling. his compliment with my own broken-Korean equivalent. It’s hard to The day of Du Chan’s studio opening arrived and I left remember for my apartment to make my way to his new place. I got off a certain now if the PROFILE tiny, worn down elevator and walked down the length of the pig smiled or not, old building’s hall. I could hear voices inside, so the party but I know I sure Trevor Clements is a professor was already underway. It was a fair sized gathering, and I did. in the International Business Language Department at recognized most faces as regulars from the bar. The studio by Trevor Clements in was large and the walls were lined with huge billboard-sized | illustrations by Seoul. He lives with his wife paintings. Jo Seung-yeon | Lee Eun-ju in west Incheon and plays drums in The Dirty As I moved closer to the crowd, the smell of incense curled photograph by Kim 30s, Kimchi Cowboys and its way to my nose. The sounds of friendly chatter, laughter, Nam-heon Seoul Rhythm Pig.

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The Pansori Epic Chant Pansori, Korean traditional narrative song, is performed by a sorikkun (singer) and a gosu (drummer). A variety of different singing styles can be found across the country. Lee Eun- (pictured), 94, is a master singer and practitioner of Korea’s Important Intangible Cultural Property No 29, Seodo sori (a variety of pansori). Pansori was inscribed in 2008 on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Heritage of Humanity (originally proclaimed in 2003). © Newsis ©