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_ • OCTOBER 2008

CRUNCH TIME Apple Fritters Pork Chops With Apples ked Apples

DISCOVER Go Behind The Scenes And Learn How To Make Native Dishes 9128 48723 inside

TRUFFLE HUNTERS head out early to get the best chance at bringing home a basket full of the delicacies that give dishes intoxicating flavor.

Gubbio's Meet Italian Diamonds dogs Lady and Fido, trained to dig for buried treasure. m in a meadow By Susan on the edge of Van Allen the northern an oak forest that Umbrian town borders dulgent, ber of Gubbio. Its a chilly they were surely morning, the grass Octo- the sign of the devil. is wet with dew and Marino rewards Lady in the sky. Marino a haze hovers and Fido for their Aringoli, who's mortadella. The work with chunks I around here been a truffle hunter dogs chomp away, of for 40 years, unleashes weren't ravenous. Last pered, urgent his dogs with fed dinner in preparation night they command: "Guarda a whis- primed for this hunt, well, bene, guarda to dig up anything so they'd be look went") Lady, bene!"("Look edible. Now a black Labrador, their tails and recharged, they pointer, bound and Fido, a tan rush back to the wag toward the trees more. trees to sniff and dig They sniff with their noses some around and when to the ground. dirt, they start pawing My adventure with Marino rushes furiously at the Marino had begun towards them. for truffle at dawn, a key treasures In seconds, he swiftly hunting, as the cold time from their jaws: black grabs bers' morning air intensifies Marino . scent and traditionally the tu- hands me the hunters favor dirt-encrusted, warty, can get to their the dim light so fles. It's amazing misshapen truf- best spots unseen they that such unattractive The secret by competitors. sought out things are delicacies nature of truffle by cooks all over traveler hunting makes it The the world. to simply walk impossible for a smell of the truffles into a forest, tap a is intoxicating: der and ask to tag hunter on the shoul- with a hint of sharp earthy and musky, along. In the northern garlic. Romans called home of Alba's region of , sexual." Apparently the scent "vaguely famous white truffles, the Catholic Church hunting tours a cottage industry banned truffles caught on to this has been built up, of in the Middle and planted and many are rigged Ages, believing they truffles so customers with pre- were so in- will come away I wanted the real satisfied. experience and chose to base myself in the 2000 Zinfandel Port 2001 Pioneer's Zinfandel beautifully preserved medieval town of the flavors of Umbrian cuisine to your Gubbio, where black truffles are found autumn dining table. Nino's Solera Shiltj all year long in the surrounding forests If you're planning a trip to Gubbio and Dos Rancheros Zinfnel and white truffles November through want to experience a truffle hunt, con- January. Still, arrangements had to be tact jdbhotels.com or the Italian Govern- made, so I signed up with JDB Hotel's ment Tourism Board at "Gubbio Package," which included a www.italiantourism.com. stay at the Relais Ducale Hotel (formerly the 15th century Duke of Montefeltro's with Black guest house) and this morning truffle hunt. Truffles Gubbio is nicknamed, "The City of Si- 1 pound tagliatelle lence" and though it's not far from the 8 tablespoons unsalted butter heavily touristed towns of and 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Assisi, it's managed to retain a small town, authentic atmosphere. Locals 1 black truffle (2 ounces) greeted me with friendly bum giornos as Salt and freshly ground black pepper, I wandered the steep cobblestone streets, to taste peeking into antique stores, ceramic shops, and quiet Romanesque churches. Cook the tagliatelle in 6 quarts of boiling Restaurant menus reflected the dis- water until al dente. Clean the truffle with a tinctive cuisine of , which is mushroom brush, do not use water. Melt the butter in a saucepan called the "Green Heart" of Italy. It's the that will be large enough to hold the cooked . home of what's considered to be Italy's When pasta is done, drain and transfer to the saucepan with best olive oil, famous lentils from the the melted butter and mix together well. Mix town of Castelluccio, and delicious cheese, salt and pepper with the pasta. Divide pecorino . Pork is the region's fa- pasta evenly into four warmed serving bowls. vored meat, and every part of the animal At the table, shave the truffle over each por- is used to make exceptional salumi, tion, using a truffle shaver or swiveled veg- sausages, and cured meats, which I en- etable peeler. joyed at Osteria dei Re, a folksy Gubbio Makes 4 servings. restaurant, packed with locals. But Gubbio's black diamonds are its Grilled Eggplant with culinary star. At the town's award-win- Truffle Oil and ning restaurant, Taverna del Lupo, truf- Goat fles are featured all over the menu. My Cheese extraordinary dinner there included truf- 2 large eggplants, sliced fles shaved over tagliatelle, comple- into 3/s-inch disks mented by a robust Rosso di Montefalco 1/3 cup truffle oil* red wine. Kosher salt, to taste Now, standing in the meadow, I'm Pepper, to taste holding a baseball cap full of black dia- Soft goat cheese monds Lady and Fido have sniffed out. Some are small as pebbles, others as big Lightly brush both sides of the eggplant as cauliflowers. We head out of the slices with oil, and sprinkle both sides with salt meadow, with Marino patting and con- and pepper. Place slices on grill and grill on - • gratulating his dogs for a job well done. medium high heat until slightly charred on both ohn, Angelo and Domenico Galleano circa 1940 in front of For all of us, it's been an excellent sides and flesh softens. the original (still used)shop building morn- Remove from grill. Drizzle with remaining Designated In National Register Of Historic Places ing. oil If you can't indulge in fresh truffles, and spread a dollop of goat cheese on each. they Makes 8 servings. THE HISTORIC can be bought at specialty food stores or through online vendors, and *Can be found at most quality kitchen stores, WINERY are available at upscale Italian restau- such as Williams Sonoma. CUCAMONGA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA rants throughout the fall season. The Phone 951-685-5376 simple recipes below, that feature ingre- www.galleanowinery.com dients more readily available, can bring

4 SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2008 • TASTES OF ITALIA