INTERVIEW’S SISCHY, BRANT RESIGN/3 MACLAINE DOES COCO/20 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • January 24, 2008 • $2.00 Sportswear

Ciao, Bello Tout Paris caught the wave as Valentino bid an emotional farewell to a stellar haute couture career that began 45 years ago in his native Italy. His spring collection of 75 looks, shown to 900 guests, addressed the past and present in a masterful melding of the two. Styles ranged from simple suits and jackets in vibrant colors to romantic evening looks and a fi nale of silk column dresses in, naturally, his signature red. For more on the show, see pages 6 and 7; more on the couture, pages 8 and 9.

A Growing Empire: L’Oréal Agrees to Buy YSL Beauté for $1.68B By Jennifer Weil billion at current exchange, for in coming weeks, L’Oréal would PARIS — YSL Beauté has a new YSL Beauté Holding, including obtain an exclusive and very long- owner in view, and it’s none other its Roger & Gallet subsidiary. term worldwide license for the use than L’Oréal. YSL Beauté is part of the PPR of the YSL and Boucheron brands The French beauty giant on subsidiary Gucci Group. in the fragrance and cosmetics Wednesday proposed to pay Once the agreement is categories, under market PPR 1.15 billion euros, or $1.68 completed, which is expected See L’Oréal, Page 22 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear

™ A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based FASHION Valentino bid farewell to the couture with a beautiful show, and the season on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 6 continued with collections from Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy and Elie Saab. SPECIALTY DELIVERIES GENERAL Petite, Plus, Long Denim Grab Bigger Market Share L’Oréal has entered into exclusive negotiations with PPR on a strategic 1 deal for YSL Beauté, the PPR-owned Gucci Group’s beauty division. Jimmy Choo founder and president Tamara Mellon fi led a $10 million lawsuit If the average woman begrudges shopping for ranks. “Other labels like James Jeans and PPD will 3 Wednesday against her mother, Ann Yeardye, for breach of contract. jeans, imagine what it was like for those in need of a be soon entering the market with exclusive, select EYE: The stars swirled around Park City and Deer Valley, Utah, like specialty size, like petite, plus or long lengths. styles for stores like Nordstrom and Saks.” 4 snowfl akes during this year’s Sundance Film Festival. “I used to think I’d never wear jeans again,” says The petite market is also ripe for growth. Why? Denise, 43. At 4-feet, 9-inches tall, she has always Unlike a suit or special occasion dress, jeans – even LETTERS: San Francisco is buzzing with new real estate development, been a petite. But after having premium denim – are considered 12 all while maintaining its green — and fashionable — profi le. three children, she became a casual wear. And most women BEAT: With tough competition and a shift in teen spending, the junior plus-size, too. Now she shops cannot justify the time and expense 17 sportswear category continues to face major headaches. the plus-sized chains. “They to have them hemmed. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 23 have jeans that fit — and they That’s why “petite denim is huge don’t look like ‘grandma’ pants, for retailers that carry it, especially To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. either. No more feeling bad that specialty stores like Banana Republic [email protected], using the individual’s name. I'm not a tall, skinny model.” or Ann Taylor,” Sokolove says. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT In the U.S., 65 million women “Most people do not want to pay to ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, NO. 17. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with age 20 and older – nearly 62% of tailor the garments. They want it ‘as one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and adult women — are overweight is’ off the rack.” November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services or obese, according to the J. Jill’s Thompson adds that “it’s provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Centers for Disease Control and a fallacy to think the only difference Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Prevention. And even though between misses and petite sizes is Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. sizes vary in women’s apparel, length.” Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 “There are a host of fit POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North 25% of women say their Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR current pant size is 12-14, and specifications that are taken into BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289- nearly 23% are 15+, according account to ensure a balanced fit – 0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production to Cotton Incorporated's Lifestyle “Women of all shapes and front rise, back rise, where the knee correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, MonitorTM survey of consumers. sizes want the same thing – a hits,” Thompson says. “Sometimes please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list Even if a woman isn’t a plus size, if selection of fashionable styles subtle style adjustments are available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. she’s short or long of leg, traditional designed to fit them” necessary – like the size and position If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, denim outlets can be unkind, — Betsy Thompson, of back pocket, for example. If you OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, forcing her to hem pants that J. Jill shorten a bootleg, flare or wide BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR puddle by eight inches or more, or leg jeans, you essentially cut off a CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR inadvertently sport a modified Thom Browne look. chunk of the intended design.” DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Cindy is 6-feet, 1-inch, and used to have a hard Another point to remember about specialty- A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. time finding “long” jeans that were long enough. sized customers is that just because they are shorter Luckily, though, she’s finding more mainstream or bigger than average women does not mean retailers, like J. Jill, that can fit her frame. they’ll accept less fashionable apparel. “Women of all shapes and sizes want the same Sokolove says the designers’ challenge is to re- In Brief thing – a selection of fashionable styles designed work a popular look for the different body types. to fit them,” says “It can be ● PACSUN CUTS UNIT PRESIDENT: Pacific Sunwear of Betsy Thompson, challenging to fit a California said Wednesday in a regulatory fi ling that it is elimi- spokesperson. She says Reason Brand is Favorite Brand of Jeans skinny jean to a plus nating the position of president at its D.e.m.o. subsidiary, which J. Jill’s Authentic Fit size, or a wide leg on the skate- and surf-inspired apparel chain is in the process of and Tried & True Fit Fit/Cut/Length 78% petite, so the trends shuttering. The Securities and Exchange Commission fi ling said jeans have wide appeal. Quality/Durability 13% must be adapted Lou Ann Bett will leave the company on March 15. The company Both are available in a Comfort 18% and manipulated,” previously said it will close the remaining 154 D.e.m.o. stores as part of its restructuring process. Last May it closed 74 units full spectrum of sizes Style/Design 8% she says. “Maybe it Price/Value 6% of the underperforming urban-inspired division. The closing of – misses 2-20, petite becomes a straight the stores is expected to be completed this May. The fi ling also Experience with Brand/Grew Up Wearing 3% 0-18, tall 4-20 and leg instead of a skinny said Bett will be entitled to receive severance benefi ts under the woman’s 14W-28W. Wide Selection 3% and a modified flare company’s executive severance plan. Modern women Availability 1% instead of a full- grew up in jeans, Other 3% blown wide leg.” ● EXPRESS APPOINTMENT: Express has named Lisa Gavales ex- and no matter what Avenue’s Brown ecutive vice president and chief marketing offi cer, succeeding John their size now, they have no intention of giving up says the plus-size customer is really no different Wendler, who departed in May. “As an independent business, we their denim. Nearly 70% of women prefer to wear than the “size 6” customer. have established aggressive growth plans that will require strong marketing and visual leadership to ensure that we are clearly artic- denim jeans rather than casual slacks, according to “They want to look just as fashionable as the ulating our brand to our customers,” Michael Weiss, chief executive the Monitor. And the number of jeans they own average size 6 woman,” Brown asserts. Avenue offi cer of Express, said. Gavales was most recently Bloomingdale’s has increased to 9 pairs, from 7.7 a year ago. makes sure every style it offers is made from the senior vice president of marketing and was largely responsible At Avenue stores, the specialty-sized denim mold and silhouette that caters to its customer, so for growing the store’s e-commerce. Earlier, she worked at business is “very significant,” according to Kellie any customer can pretty much pull off any style. PricewaterhouseCoopers and Habberstad International. Brown, spokesperson. Avenue now offers exclusive women’s lines “It is a growing business,” she maintains, adding, from top denim designers such as Seven7, Yanuk ● JAFFERJEE TO RAFAELLA: Rafaella Apparel Group Inc. “Denim is a brand-loyal business. When you find and Antik Denim. Brown says the designers were said it appointed Husein Jafferjee as chief operating officer. a product that fits you, you tend to return. Avenue presented with Avenue’s plus-size specs, so the labels Jafferjee was previously at Elie Tahari as chief operating offi- has a specific mold created for their customers and could develop the right fit for the retailer's customer. cer. Prior to that, Jafferjee served in a variety of roles at Urban Children’s Stores, Henri Bendel and Mexx USA, as well as Avenue’s denim collection definitely has a strong Says Brown: “The plus-size customer wants Bankers Trust Co., Cosmair Inc. and Touche Ross & Co. repeat customer.” high-end designer jeans as much as their smaller- The Monitor findings validate Brown’s assertion. sized friends.” ● VALUE CITY DEAL: Retail Ventures Inc. said it sold an 81 per- Nearly 80% of all women say “fit/cut/length” cent ownership stake in its Value City Department Stores business is the most important reason a certain brand is This story is one in a series of articles based on find- to VCHI Acquisition Co., which is described as a newly formed en- their favorite. ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ tity owned by VCDS Acquisition Holdings LLC, Emerald Capital Alison Sokolove, fashion editor for The Tobe tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these Management LLC and Crystal Value LLC. “Retail Ventures Inc. will Report, says creating the right fit for the plus-size pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it receive no net cash proceeds from the sale, will pay a fee of $500,000 is a tough undertaking. relates to the American consumer and her attitudes to the purchaser and anticipates recognizing an aftertax loss on the and behavior regarding clothing, transaction,” the retailer said in a statement. “As part of the transac- “Svoboda denim does it best since they already tion, Retail Ventures Inc. issued warrants to VCHI Acquisition Co. specialize in plus sizes,” Sokolove says. She adds, appearance, fashion, fiber selection and to purchase 150,000 shares of common stock of Retail Ventures though, that more makers are joining the plus-size many other timely, relevant subjects. at an exercise price of $10 per share, and exercisable within 18 months of the date of the closing of the transaction.” WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 3 WWD.COM Jimmy Choo’s Tamara Mellon Sischy, Brant Resign at Interview Files Lawsuit Against Mother By Lisa Lockwood Ingrid Sischy NEW YORK — Sandra Brant and Ingrid By Liza Casabona Sischy have resigned at Interview. After two years of exploring strategic immy Choo founder and president Tamara Mellon filed a $10 million lawsuit alternatives, Brant, chief executive of- JWednesday against her mother, Ann Yeardye, for breach of contract in the sale of ficer, president and publisher of Brant the company in 2004. Publications, has decided to sell her 50 Mellon and Yeardye held interest in Jimmy Choo through family trusts. At the percent interest in the company to her time of the sale, the price was paid to the family in cash and stock of the new owner, co-owner, ex-husband Peter Brant. She Hicks Muse, which is now Lion Capital. According to the complaint in California will leave the company, which publishes Supreme Court, Yeardye and Mellon reached an agreement partly verbally and part- Interview, Art in America and The Magazine ly in writing that Yeardye would receive her share in cash only and Mellon would Antiques, after a transition period. take her share solely in stock. Sischy has resigned as the magazine’s The lawsuit alleged that Yeardye mistakenly received some of the stock that was editor in chief after 18 years at the helm. supposed to go to Mellon and refused to return it when the error was discovered. The selling price could not be learned, The lawsuit alleges breach of contract, injurious falsehood, tortuous interference although sources said Sandra Brant “did and breach of fi duciary duty. very well. It was fair value.” “It is with immense sadness that I take this action, but I see no other way to pro- In an exclusive interview, Sandra Brant tect my daughter’s interests, which are my paramount concern,” Mellon said in a said that, over the past two years, her ob- statement. “The property in question was to help secure my daughter’s future, and I jective was for the magazines to remain am baffl ed by my mother’s refusal to return assets, which rightfully do not belong to independent and to continue to operate her. I have tried every means to settle this case but, after a long period of time, the in a creative environment. Although she action I have initiated today seems the only course available to me.” was presented with several opportuni- Yeardye could not be reached for comment. ties, including selling the magazines to a Mellon said in the complaint that she offered to resolve the dispute by putting publishing company or private equity in- the stock into a trust for her fi ve-year-old daughter. The offer was allegedly refused. vestors, several of the options would have Mellon’s daughter, Araminta, is also named as a plaintiff in the complaint. provided her with fi nancing to buy out her happen that way. I stayed a much longer In the complaint, Mellon asked for $10 million in damages, plus additional puni- co-owner but would have saddled her with time then I intended — 18 years. tive damages. tremendous debt. Faced with a declining “A whole lot of it has do with the great According to the company, Mellon founded Jimmy Choo in 1996 as a partnership economy and tightening credit markets, people I work with and the fact that Sandy with Jimmy Choo, a London-based couture shoemaker. The fi rm partnered with which are bound to impact luxury catego- and I have been a team. We’ve worked well Equinox Luxury Holdings Ltd. in 2001 and expanded. In 2004 Lion Capital, formerly ries, Sandra Brant would have had to take together as partners, and when Ginger Hicks Muse, acquired a majority share of the company in a deal that valued the com- on a fairly signifi cant economic risk. Rogers hangs up her dancing shoes, it’s time pany at 101 million pounds, or $187 million. So, instead, Brant decided to become for Fred Astaire to dance in other ways. More recently, TowerBrook Capital Partners LP acquired Jimmy Choo in the seller and have Peter Brant buy out “Although leaving the magazine and February of last year in a deal that valued the company at 185 million pounds, or her interest. wonderful staff behind is diffi cult, it is the $364.5 million. According to the Jimmy Choo Web site, Mellon continues to oversee When the Brants originally bought The right decision and one that will allow the the company’s creative direction, along with creative director Sandra Choi, and she Magazine Antiques and Art in America new owners to establish their own edito- is still a signifi cant shareholder in the fi rm. in 1985, and then Interview in 1989, the rial stamp on the magazine,” said Sischy. Jimmy Choo, Lion Capital and TowerBrook said in a statement Sunday that the company took on a large amount of debt She said she’s involved in several big enterprise value of the deal was 185 million pounds, or $364.5 million at current with its assorted enterprises, not only the projects that need her attention, declin- exchange. magazines. It took until December 2006 to ing to elaborate. Last month Jimmy Choo opened a new fl agship on Rodeo Drive as part of a West pay down the debt. Today, the properties Sischy began her career at ArtForum in Coast expansion. The company said it will open fi ve more stores in the next two are collectively at their highest level of 1979 and is a widely published author on a years. Currently the fi rm has 22 stores in the U.S., which generate about half of its total paid circulation, and Interview’s ad- range of cultural subjects. She also contrib- worldwide sales of approximately $177 million in 43 total stores. vertising revenues have risen nearly 300 utes to such magazines as The New York percent since 1993. Times Magazine and The New Yorker and It’s been an uphill battle from the is a contributing editor at Vanity Fair. early days when the company’s fl agship Publishing and fashion heavyweights JOURNALISTS VOTE, JUST NOT IN PUBLIC: The Plaza title, Interview, was subject to declining were surprised Wednesday to hear that primary took place, fi ttingly, in the Grand Ballroom, ad pages and stagnant circulation. For Sischy and Brant had resigned from the over dessert. It was so dubbed by The New Yorker Sandra Brant to take on a fi nancial part- company. MEMO PAD articles editor Susan Morrison, who was presiding over a luncheon for the anthology she edited, “Thirty Ways of Looking at Hillary,” and it happened at the request of her colleague, Hendrik I’ve done it for 23 years. I don’t want to feel like Hertzberg, who wondered how a room of noted women writers and their guests might vote “ in the Democratic primary. (No Republicans came forward.) New Yorker editor in chief I’m in a movie with Bill Murray called ‘Groundhog David Remnick and his tablemate, Carl Bernstein, CNN commentator and author of a Hillary Clinton biography, tactfully abstained. “I think I know how David would have voted,” Day.’ I’m interested in new challenges. Morrison said later, “but I’m not going to say.” ” The book was published this week and includes essays from Susan Orlean, Leslie — Sandra Brant Bennetts, Daphne Merkin and Robin Givhan, among others. (Givhan revisits her notorious “cleavage” essay in the book, and was cheerful at the lunch. “Go ahead and say it! Say ner and have to assume signifi cant debt all “If there are better people in publish- the C word. Cleavage!”) over again didn’t make economic sense. ing, I really don’t know them,” said Graydon Back to the ballot. Like many recent elections, the results were in dispute, but one “I’ve done it for 23 years. I don’t want Carter, editor in chief of Vanity Fair. “I can’t thing was clear: John Edwards got just one vote (a white male, natch), and Morrison’s to feel like I’m in a movie with Bill Murray imagine Interview without them. As a com- rule demanding that undecided lunchers vote anyway was either unheard or ignored. called ‘Groundhog Day.’ I’m interested in petitor, when you think you have discov- But as for how many people raised their hands for either Clinton or Barack Obama, no new challenges,” she said. “I love these ered something, it was in their magazine a one could say for sure afterward: “My impression was that Obama had a slight edge,” publications and I care deeply about them. year and a half before. They were a great Hertzberg wrote in an e-mail, “but my impressions tend to be within the margin of I’ll be there for the transition and to sup- team together. I’m not sure it’s a business error.” Bernstein called it a rough tie, and Morrison (who put up a hand for Clinton) and port the staff. They’re wonderful magazines without them. They did everything.” Remnick saw more Clintonites. Thirty ways of looking at a Plaza primary? — Irin Carmon and they’ll have a wonderful future.” Ralph Lauren added, “I think Ingrid She started Brant Publications 23 years and Sandy are both very friendly, nice EAGER WORDS: The sudden death of Heath Ledger took many by surprise — including ago, handling the company’s operational women who have done a very good job most of the celebrity weeklies that closed this week’s issues before it could report duties and all aspects of the business. with the magazine. They’re passionate the news of his death. But Star found one way to keep relevant as details of Ledger’s Peter Brant, who couldn’t be reached for and they love their magazine. They had passing emerged — having editorial director Bonnie Fuller blog about the young star’s comment Wednesday, has been a silent good ideas. They were able to do things death on The Huffi ngton Post, and then link to Star’s Web site “for more coverage of partner. The couple divorced in 1996 and, with personalities, artists and people in Heath’s life and tragic death.” Even more aggressive than her cross-promotion is Fuller’s two years ago, Brant, who heads Brant Hollywood. People wanted to do good assumption the young star died by suicide before an autopsy even began. Fuller wrote: Industries Inc., a newsprint manufactur- things with them. They are very smart “None of his gifts, neither talent nor family, appears to have been enough to combat er, wanted to monetize his interests in the women who have very good ideas, and the demons that apparently led Heath to take the pills that could have ended his young publishing fi rm. The Brants hired Allen & have put a lot of time and energy into it. life.” But an autopsy Wednesday morning was inconclusive, and authorities have not Co. to explore strategic alternatives. “I also know Peter and he’s a very good committed to suicide as cause of death. “The way I wrote it, I didn’t mean to say It could not be learned Wednesday guy. He loves the art world. To fi nd good defi nitively that it was suicide at all. I felt like I left it open,” Fuller told WWD. what Peter Brant’s plans are for the three replacements is not that easy,” he said. Commenters on The Huffi ngton Post think Fuller jumped the gun. “I am assuming magazines. Diane von Furstenberg said, “I have so that some people who are paid to write will write almost anything to get something As for Sischy, who built Interview into much respect and so much love for both out there. Bonnie Fuller, hopefully, will read all of these comments and learn a an internationally recognized title that of them. They did an amazing job bring- lesson about sensationalizing the death of someone she doesn’t even know,” wrote covers the worlds of art, fashion, entertain- ing Interview to another level.” commenter PatA. “Bonnie Fuller: tacky tacky tacky,” wrote another, ParadiseDiva. And ment and pop culture, she said she had no “I’m in shock. I love those two,” said ellezeebub responded to Fuller: “Couldn’t wait to see if there was something else other choice but to resign Wednesday. David Lipman, chairman of Lipman, the going on — had to go with the ‘demons’ of his personal confl ict. What demons?.…Of “With Sandy’s decision, it’s inevitable New York ad agency. “I’ve supported this course, you wouldn’t be able to turn much of a buck on that story.” Star, In Touch, that I would resign,” said Sischy. When magazine for years because of my respect Life & Style and Us Weekly won’t likely make much on the Ledger news. The only she was drafted as editor after Andy for Ingrid and Sandy and what they’ve celebrity weekly that features Ledger as its cover story is People, which closed its Warhol’s death, Sischy said she expected done with it. They’ve built a loyal adver- issue Tuesday night. — Stephanie D. Smith to help the magazine fi nd its post-Warhol tiser and every one of my brands believes life and then return to writing. “It didn’t in the magazine.” 4 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 WWD.COM

Mary-Kate Olsen and Aaron Yoo Powder Puffs at “The Wackness” after party. The stars swirled around Park City and Deer Valley like snowfl akes during this year’s Sundance Film Festival, albeit resembling more of a gentle storm than a blizzard. The “Swagdance” backlash and the writers’ strike seemed to have made many of the A-listers camera shy — Robert De Niro, Harvey Weinstein, Sarah Jessica Parker, Charlize Theron, Mary-Kate Olsen, Colin Farrell and Kirsten Dunst among them. But if you knew where to look (and you were on the list), there was plenty of goings on until the sun came up. After the “Sleepwalking” premiere, producer and co-star Theron went to Grappa for dinner with boyfriend Stuart Townsend and castmates Dennis Hopper and Woody Harrelson, about a dozen in all at the table. Ignoring the gawkers, Dennis Quaid and wife Kimberly Buffi ngton (Quaid costars in “Smart People” with Parker and Ellen Page) dropped by to say “hi.” At the private dinner held in a tent at The Lift for Michel Gondry’s wacky “Be Kind Rewind,” stars Jack Black and Danny Glover alternated between Moët & Chandon Champagne and Heineken. Meanwhile, the

William Morris Agency and the cast of “Choke” partied at their own ▼ Sarah private dinners, which ranged in fare — au gratin potatoes and beef tenderloin at Emily Jessica “Choke,” cheap burritos from Chipotle at William Morris. Mortimer Parker hits the The private dinner is de rigueur for any movie worth its salt (or star power) at slopes. Sundance, and the “The Wackness” was no exception. “It’s about things that are true for pretty much every human. You have demons to face and you have to face them or you get lost,” said co-star Olivia Thirlby. If it sounds esoteric, that pretty much sums up every movie at Sundance. More straightforward was the Variety/Women in Film 10 Directors to Watch fete that has been a festival cornerstone for nine years and running, and this year Jodie Foster showed up to support “Phoebe in Wonderland” director Daniel Barnz, while Stanley Tucci, Colin Firth, Patricia Clarkson, Saffron Burrows and Eliza Dushku mingled. And what would Sundance be without a fashionable starlet inappropriately dressed for cold weather? Mischa Barton showed up to Jodie Foster and Andie MacDowell Monday night’s dinner at the Boost Mobile Lounge at the Variety party. for her fi lm, “Assassination of a High School President,” in a sky-high pair of studded Christian Louboutin heels. “I only had to walk fi ve steps,” Barton explained at the Young, Fabulous, and Broke-hosted affair. While Barton wowed in her one-shouldered Jenni Kayne dress, she admitted it’s her new bombshell blonde locks that are turning heads these days. “I get hit on, like, so many times a day at the airport and just walking around. I’m just like, ‘God, guys are so shallow!’ All they look at is the color of your hair,” noted Barton, who celebrates her 22nd birthday today. The actress, who was arrested on DUI charges last month, will stick to Anjelica Huston and Bijou Phillips Dennis Hopper and Charlize Theron the slopes. “I’m going to go skiing. I’m a pretty good at the “Choke” premiere. at the “Sleepwalking” premiere. skier,” she said. Sundance Scoops PUTTING IT BLUNTLY aving two critically received films on a low budget. Held at a cowboy bar SLOW SALES: Film acquisitions at she did make time to hit the Fred Segal Hat the Sundance Film Festival is a in Albuquerque, N.M., the bash “had Sundance were markedly slower this gift suite at The Lift, walking away with handful for most actors, but having less a salsa band and we danced and I did

year, with only a handful of deals coming a $750 Spyder ski jacket (the same style than 48 hours in town to promote them Jägermeister shots, which I hate,” Blunt MICHELSON/WIREIMAGE.COM RANDALL JASON MERRITT/WIREIMAGE; BY BY BLUNT MORTIMER WILLIAMSON/WIREIMAGE; PARKER, through in the festival’s fi rst six days: Demi Moore has) and two pairs of $330 would make most downright punchy. recalls. “That’s how drunk I was — that for the documentaries “American Teen,” Love From Australia shearling boots, Luckily, Emily Blunt has enough Brit wit I actually did Jäger shots. I regretted it “Roman Polanski: Wanted and Desired,” known as the dressier Ugg alternative at to handle such a situation with aplomb. the next day because we had to do a night the dramedies “Henry Poole Is Here” the fest. Maria Bello and Jessica Alba were As she plops down onto a sofa to discuss shoot and I looked vile and felt really ill.” and “Choke” and the ensemble comedy among the other stars to favor the brands her new flick, “Sunshine Cleaning,” Blunt, Today, however, she looks the part of a “Hamlet 2,” which sold for a staggering and their publicists wasted no time 24, reveals the same ironic edge as her Sundance pro in a cream Juicy Couture $10 million. Insiders say buyers are more transmitting their quotes over the Internet character, Nora (the sweater coat over a shrewd this time around, wary of the as well as a (nonposed) photo of Alba pothead sister to costar Emily Blunt striped T-shirt, jeans news-making yet infl ated deals of years wearing her shearling boots around town. with Amy Adams’ go- and tall black boots. past that failed to turn big box offi ce Less guilt-laden was Mischa Barton, who getter Rose). “I also got kitted out profi ts. Still, some of the most marketable picked up a guitar charm and a peace “When other in some really ugly features, including the Amy Adams-Emily sign necklace at the Getty Images suite. people are onscreen, hats, so I’m fi ne,” she Blunt dark comedy “Sunshine Cleaning,” “Sometimes I feel really guilty about the I’m like, ‘Yeah, yeah, said, referring to the the coming-of-age pic “The Wackness” whole thing,” she admitted. “But still, bulls--t, bulls--t, bulls- single-digit temps in starring Sir Ben Kingsley and Olivia Thirlby, it’s really fun, and yeah of course all my -t….Oh, there’s me!’” the mountains of Park with a cameo by Mary-Kate Olsen, and friends are so jealous!” deadpans Blunt. “I City, Utah. the genre thriller “Transsiberian” starring howl with laughter at Despite all the fi lm Woody Harrelson, Emily Mortimer and Kate SKI SUITS: For the most fashion-forward myself.” In all honesty, premieres, swag suites Mara are still in play. celebs, it seemed that city garb had the actress says and parties, Blunt says returned to Park City after years of warm- hearing the audience the thing she would PRODUCT PLACEMENT: It seems actors blooded types trying to masquerade laugh at her comedic have liked to do most in have fi nally caught on to the Swagdance as furry animals. Like a slew of other scenes “makes me Sundance would have stigma — at least for appearance’s starlets, actress Charlize Theron opted for well up. It’s this weird, been a toboggan ride. sake. While the various gift suites were an urban look in a sleek wool coat (no embarrassed thing. It’s Unfortunately, time does crawling with stars, very few save for the shearling or fur, perhaps in deference so frightening to do.” not allow, as she is also Paris Hilton-Kim Kardashian types were to the PETA demonstrators chanting Blunt says she took here to promote the willing to have their photos snapped on Main Street) and knee-high Hogan on the fi lm, which Tom Hanks-produced while grabbing free stuff — which this Rock boots. Mary-Kate Olsen and Kirsten centers around two “The Great Buck year ranged from the useful (thermals, Dunst also donned fedoras instead of ski- down-on-their-luck Howard,” costarring the jeans and snowboards) to the not-so- bum beanies while hanging out at the sisters who start a actor’s son, Colin, and much (Guitar Hero, long sari-printed MySpace Café and Teddy’s. But at least business cleaning up crime and suicide John Malkovich as an over-the-hill magician. sundresses). Perhaps one of the best- one person stuck to fur: Sir Ben Kingsley scenes, because Adams was already “I play a neurotic p.r. person who is known actresses at the festival, Sarah (who stars in both “The Wackness” and attached. Also, “the lure of playing a loathing working with John Malkovich’s Jessica Parker, was also the most elusive, “Transsiberian”) donned a fl oor-length pothead is attractive,” she says. character,” says Blunt of her brief but refusing photos and generally acting coat while shopping in Albertson’s But it was booze, not drugs, that Blunt hilarious turn. “Bring in the Brits to play like a hermit instead of someone with a supermarket with his wife, decked out in indulged in during the wrap party of nerds and Nazis. We do it really well.” movie, “Smart People,” to promote. Still, a fur hat. the fi lm, which was shot quickly and — Marcy Medina OLSEN PHOTO BY MAT SZWAJKOS/GETTY IMAGES; THERON BY GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE; HUSTON BY CHRIS WEEKS/WIREIMAGE; FOSTER BY TODD CHRIS WEEKS/WIREIMAGE; FOSTER BY GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE; HUSTON BY IMAGES; THERON BY SZWAJKOS/GETTY MAT OLSEN PHOTO BY

6 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008

Valentino’s Grand Goodbye Valentino: No airborne trapeze artists swinging by, no Annie Lennox tickling the ivories, no mega retrospective exhibition (at least not until June at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs). Rather, on Wednesday evening, Valentino said goodbye to fashion with relative discretion at a stellar show at the Musée Rodin. “We are very serene, very happy,” he had said on Monday. And, indeed, when he took that last walk down the runway after a 45-year run at fashion’s highest reaches, he maintained his composure as his audience jumped to its collective feet in wild appreciation. And why not? Valentino wants not for friends, domiciles, nor holiday haunts, and is surely off to a wonderful next phase, which he said might include designing for the theater or ballet. But for now, his signature runway wave signaled the end of an era, one during which he played devotedly to ladies who appreciate grace, grandeur and their share of well-placed pizzazz. In recent years, he expanded the ranks of those regulars to include younger types such as Uma Thurman and Lucy Liu. They, along with Claudia Schiffer, Nadja Auermann, Emanuel and Laura Ungaro and Alber Elbaz, were among the 900 guests who settled in for a terrifi c collection, one that spoke at once to Valentino’s past and his currency. The opening was spectacular, starting with the fi rst look out — Natalia Vodianova in a loose pink tunic and gleeful fl oral skirt, topped off with a big retro bow of a chapeau. But what followed was anything but old-fashioned — beautiful coats, suits and jackets in mostly unadorned, pastel double-face wool and crepe. A big smart yellow coat here, a lean melon suit there. Of course, plain has its limits, especially in Valentino’s world, and before long he gave in to his decorative impulses, with motifs ranging from the relative discretion of precision fringe on a white ensemble to the vibrancy of allover chinoiserie embroidery — and that was just by day. Evening meant bountiful expressions of all-out glamour — romantic chiffons, chic crepes, indulgent spills of beading, embroideries and frills — something for all of Val’s gals and then some. The only thing missing was a spot of Valentino red. That is, until the fi nale, when all of his models came out in identical simple red silk columns — a perfect expression of timeless elegance. Backstage after the show, the mood was chaotic but ebullient. Seamstresses smiled through their tears, and Giancarlo Giammetti sipped a fl ute of Champagne through his television interviews. “He’s happy,” he repeatedly assured interviewers about the retiring couturier, who braved a wall of cameras to embrace his well-wishers. “He has such an incredible style and sense of playfulness,” said Liu. “What impresses me more than anything is his love for life.” WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 7 WWD.COM

Clockwise from left: Alber Elbaz; Uma Thurman and Devon Aoki.

VAL’S CROWD: “I’m absolutely thrilled to be here,” Uma Thurman declared as she arrived at Valentino’s farewell show Wednesday night in Paris. And the paparazzi were equally excited by her presence, given last-minute cancellations by the other expected stars: Gwyneth Paltrow, Liv Tyler and Elizabeth Hurley. “He will be sorely, sorely missed,” said Thurman, who is taking a break Emanuel Ungaro from the silver screen. “I’m just enjoying my vacation.” “I feel like it’s an amazing part of history being here,” said “Cashmere Mafi a” star Lucy Liu, noting she’s also embarking on a fi eld trip for UNICEF. And so did gaggles of royals, socialites and designers, from Empress Farah Pahlavi and Rosario of Bulgaria to Miuccia Prada, Emanuel Ungaro and Alber Elbaz. “It’s an emotional moment. He represented a style that was very lively and glamorous,” said Ungaro. Elbaz lauded “the know-how, the glamour” of the acclaimed Roman couturier. “It’s really the end of an era.” The show boasted almost as many models in the front row as on the catwalk. Eva Herzigova, who is plotting a fi lm based on her life, Lucy said her directorial debut is on hold Liu because motherhood has taken over “everything.” “I’ve got some modeling work back on, too, because the old girls are back,” she said, referring to the comeback of supermodels. But Nadja Auermann is dancing to a different tune, now focusing on a music career. “I’ve been writing songs and have done a few very private concerts. I’m looking for a band and to go public Valentino and in the near future.” Miuccia Prada Nadja Auermann, Claudia Schiffer and Eva Herzigova. PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008

Jean Paul Gaultier Givenchy

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Dream a Little Dream Hippie mermaids and punk ballerinas — these were the fanciful visions at Jean Paul Gaultier and Givenchy, while Elie Saab pursued what’s currently an even more elusive creature: the red-carpet siren.

Jean Paul Gaultier: Imagination has never been in boasted matted wet hair; one had a bustier of shells Client-pleasing elements rounded it out: a scalloped short supply chez Jean Paul Gaultier, whose couture and another drowned her jumpsuit of golden scales skirt suit, a trench with sparkling scales and plenty of collections have visited many exotic locales. One of his with a wet sponge, evoking Botticelli’s “The Birth fl owing trousers. But Gaultier ended on a truly bizarre favorite stops, of course, has been the sea, with louche of Venus.” Thankfully, the designer cast a wide net note, sending out his fi nale mermaid on crutches, sailors inspiring some of his most memorable looks. This on this transoceanic romp. A hippie dress printed which some people in the audience saw as an offensive time around, the designer dove deeper into that territory with a jellyfi sh motif created a spectacular virtual spoof of the handicapped. — as in “20,000 Leagues Under” — with marine life (think aquarium, fi shnet dresses were beguiling enough to fish scales) forming the basis of his strong spring effort. ensnare their prey and dresses embroidered with Givenchy: Degas ballerinas don’t usually evoke images Gaultier’s quirkiness had its moments. Models tropical fl ora proved Gaultier’s an island-hopper, too. of women in tough-chic silhouettes marked by sharply WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 9 WWD.COM Givenchy Elie Saab Fashion Scoops LASHING OUT: Viktor & Rolf is moving into eyewear — false eyelashes, to be exact. The Dutch design duo and its beauty license holder, L’Oréal, will come out with three different designs for peepers in late spring for the Shu Uemura brand (also owned by the French beauty giant). The yet-to-be unveiled limited edition collection, inspired by Viktor & Rolf’s spring fashion line, includes styles called Wing, Wing 2 and Rhombus. They will retail for 75 euros, or $109 at current exchange, apiece.

Victoria Beckham, Claudia Schiffer and Dita Von Teese.

EARLY BIRDS: Victoria Beckham — aka Posh Spice — is a real fashion devotee. She got on a plane straight after a concert in London late Tuesday in order to make Roland Mouret’s show early the next morning. “Of course I’m tired,” said Beckham. “That’s why I’m wearing sunglasses.” Beckham said she’d depart later the same day for Manchester for the Spice Girls’ next gig. Meanwhile, Simon Fuller, the British entertainment entrepreneur who is Mouret’s partner in his new label, RM (and the Beckhams’ manager), said he has a few fashion-related projects brewing, including an “interactive” scheme and another in which Mouret will collaborate with other designers to broaden the scope of his brand. Fuller declined to give details.

JETTING AROUND: Don’t expect Becca Cason Thrash to succumb to jet lag. “I arrived in Paris and hit the ground running,” said the Texas socialite at a party in her honor hosted by furniture and accessories designers Ria and Yiouri Augousti, attended by the likes of Suzanne Saperstein, Glenda Bailey and Neiman Marcus’ Ken Dowling. And it seems couture has a bright future, given today’s Givenchy Elie Saab brand-conscious youngsters. “Imagine, my nine-year-old son asked if he could have his birthday party at the Armani Café,” said Rebecca Carcelle, who circled the party with her hubby, Yves Carcelle. “I gave him a simple answer: ‘No!’”

CONFESSIONS ON A RUNWAY: Chanel’s couture show Tuesday attracted an eclectic mix of women from fi lm and music, including Cécile Cassel, who stars in the forthcoming British romantic comedy “My Last Five Girlfriends.” “I’m one of the fi ve ex-girlfriends — they’re not mine,” Cassel said. The French actress is now fi lming an HBO biopic about Coco Chanel, where she plays one of the designer’s actress friends. “She was the fi rst actress to really help Chanel,” said Cassel. Marie-Josée Croze, of “The Diving Bell and Butterfl y” fame, shooed her friends away so she could promote her upcoming fi lms to journalists. “I’m working right now,” she hollered. The Quebecois actress has two movies out this spring: “The New Protocol,” followed by “Two Days to Kill.” PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY Marianne Faithfull said her new album, “Easy Come Easy constructed military jackets and aggressive shoes. But overstatement that marked, and often marred, his Diane Kruger Go,” will be out in September. that’s the great thing about fashion — a designer can take earliest collections. On the downside: a couple of “We recorded live in the an inspiration and run with it, as far away as he chooses. sculptural honeycomb extravaganzas. Conversely, the studio in New York — the old Which is what Riccardo Tisci did in the Givenchy indulgently proportioned white tulle-and-canvas trench way,” said Faithfull, who revealed she’s also been asked by collection he showed on Tuesday, to very strong effect. made a glorious argument for audacious grandeur. Perrier-Jouet to help create a special Champagne. “The only The designer’s starting point was the sculpture thing is, I don’t drink. I’ll have to get someone else to do the “La Petite Danseuse de 14 Ans,” which attracted him Elie Saab: Finding inspiration in diamonds might tasting,” she said. for its “romanticism completely made in bronze,” seem like a no-brainer for Beirut-based couturier Elie Japanese actress Rinko Kikuchi showed off a daring new pixie in other words, a combination of hard and soft. Yet Saab, whose sparkling sequin-flooded confections haircut by Kamo Katsuya — and she’s dealing with blades in her his fi rst look out tempered any expectation of wild bear testament to his love of bling. This outing was next movie, too. “I play a fi ghter. I love action fi lms,” she said. extremes: a dress with a reed-thin torso and short skirt even higher wattage than a typical Saab affair, with French actress Clémence Poésy, however, is more lover fl ounced sans softness over white underlayers for a dresses so heavily embroidered with glittering crystals than fi ghter in her next movie. “It’s another love story,” look lovely in its precision. This was followed by more that they made you reach for your sunglasses. Saab’s said the thespian of her upcoming project, a British fi lm demonstrative, unfussy ruffl ing as well as plenty of strength lies in sticking to his time-tested silhouettes, dubbed “Heartless.” the take-no-prisoners skinny pants that have become which are seldom tricky. He featured Fifties-style Madonna’s stylist, who goes by the name of B., was also in something of a signature for Tisci’s Givenchy. When cocktail ensembles and glamour-puss red-carpet gowns the audience. Having just wrapped up working on Madonna’s he went really soft, it was with the proverbial edge, that are sure to find plenty of takers if the awards next album cover, shot by Steven Klein, B. said she was returning shrouding dresses in black tulle to costume his Gothic season ever materializes. This season he livened to London the next day to style a music video starring Madonna, Ballerina, or juicing up beautifully rendered “Swan things up with some nice blue or pink lamé columnar Justin Timberlake and Timbaland. “Madonna’s look is going to be Lake” feathers with a shock of bright red at the waist. gowns. But it’s hard to sit through a Saab show without more edgy, more fresh — with no more disco,” she said.

Only occasionally did Tisci give in to the wanton yearning for a little variation. For more Fashion Scoops, see page 10 STEPHANE FEUGERE GIANNONI; KRUGER BY GIOVANNI BECKHAM PHOTO BY 10 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 WWD.COM Sleek Style RM: Sleek, chic and alluring. Sounds simple enough but plenty difficult for a designer to achieve, yet Roland Mouret did it so beautifully in the RM fall ready-to-wear collection he showed on Wednesday morning. Mouret hopes to build his business by appealing to a high- end customer’s yen for fashion that is exclusive in terms of quality and distribution. “There is a difference between what is produced in China and what is produced in Europe,” he said before the show, noting that he uses only Italian fabrics and produces exclusively in France. Built on a core of black, gray and ultra-dark green with shots of vibrant color — candy pink, bright yellow, sapphire blue — the collection felt like the tightly edited wardrobe of a stylish woman who is glamorous (and very thin). Mouret worked structured fabrics for dresses and separates and fl uid silk crepe in softer back-draped dresses. Either way, save for a fabulous coat that fell loose in back, everything was ultralean, often with geometric details such as a pleated waistband or a demonstrative neckline- to-hem back zipper that accentuated the curve of the back. Still in its infancy, this is a smart, sensual collection with plenty of potential — and challenges, especially with the current economic climate. Let’s

hope Mouret can make it work. GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY

anniversary year. But bling was far from being the only thing on WHERE THERE’S SMOKE: Does Dunhill have its eye on hot men’s the actress’ mind. “When I asked if anyone knew who won the wear designer Kim Jones? According to sources, the British Fashion Scoops Packers-Giants game, you could have heard a pin drop,” she luxury goods fi rm is recruiting a creative director and has been laughed. “Believe me, I won’t be wearing any jewelry when I in talks with Jones, among others. Jones had no comment watch the Super Bowl. I’d tear it off in excitement.” Tuesday and Dunhill could not be reached for comment. TRADING PLACES: Could Catherine Deneuve be turning the tables on her career? “It’s a fi lm about cinema groupies,” said WHEN DUTY CALLS: “We were joking it should be called RETAIL THERAPY: Dita Von Teese certainly knows how to get over the grande dame of French cinema of her new fi lm project, ‘Inheriting Duty,’” said Roberta Armani at a dinner to fete the a breakup. The star, who split from rocker Marilyn Manson last “Les Stars et Moi” (“The Stars and I,” in English). launch of Roger Moenks’ book, “Inheriting Beauty.” year, swished into Christian Lacroix’s show Tuesday sporting a Unfortunately, with life possibly imitating art, Deneuve was Many of the women featured in the book showed up, eager huge, sparkling rock on her hand. “It’s my happy divorce gift,” whisked off by a phalanx of paparazzi before she could reveal if to talk about various projects. British socialite Tamara Beckwith she smiled, adding, “Dior made it for me.” she’d play a groupie or a leading lady. is opening a luxury boutique in London this year. “It’ll be my Meanwhile, “CSI: Miami” star Eva La Rue said she fl ew into dream shop,” she said. “If you have to go on holiday, and all YSL IN SPAIN: Retired couturier Yves Saint Laurent is going to town to take in a few shows courtesy of the Hollywood writers’ you have is a credit card, it will sell everything you need for get the museum treatment in Spain. Corunna’s Caixa Galicia strike. “I have the time,” she said, adding that she was fi lming the trip.” Foundation will reprise an expanded version of “YSL: Dialogue her impression of Paris for a slot on “Extra.” “It’s me going MB Beach Couture, the luxury beachwear line founded by With Art,” which already ran at the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint around with a handheld camera,” she said. “I met Maria Buccellati, meanwhile, has collaborated with Rock & Laurent Foundation in Paris. More than 38 important paintings Valentino yesterday and it was like seeing a legend.” Republic on a jeans line. The deal came about, said Buccellati, are being loaned to the museum for the show, which opens when Rock & Republic executives met Harrods fashion director Feb. 13 and runs through April. BIRTHDAY GALORE: Boucheron, the jewelry house, celebrated its Marigay McKee — who was sporting the label’s jeans with an 150th anniversary Monday by treating its best (paying) clients MB top. The collection featuring MB’s cashmere stitching will MEET THE DESIGNER: On Tuesday, Banana Republic lured a gaggle and a handful of stars — Julianne Moore, Diane Kruger, Naomi hit stores for fall. of editors to New York’s New Museum of Contemporary Art for a Campbell and Michelle Yeoh — to a gala evening of art, jewelry Photographer Moenks, meanwhile, is switching dinner. The brand is sponsoring the Elizabeth Peyton exhibit at and food. direction for his next book. “It’ll be the 50 most eminent the museum on the Bowery next fall, and it used the evening to After a private showing of the house’s new million-dollar- environmentalists,” he said, describing hopes to include the introduce its new executive vice president of design and creative plus collection of baubles against a backdrop of contemporary likes of Prince Charles and Hillary Clinton. director, Simon Kneen, to editors. “The fi rst time I met Simon, art — Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons, Maurizio Cattelan et al, culled I knew immediately he was the right person,” Jack Calhoun, from PPR owner François Pinault’s collection — the moneyed ROBED TALENT: Celebrity Banana Republic’s president, said. “He met the more stringent band was whisked to colorist Christophe requirement of Banana Republic’s design department — he’s a Julianne the neighboring Petit Robin unveiled a Brit.” (He replaced fellow Brit Deborah Lloyd.) Post-dinner, there Moore Palais for dinner, where bathrobe collection at was a raffl e for a trip to Art Basel, which Teen Vogue’s fashion Emmanuelle Seigner Maria Luisa Monday news director Jane Keltner took home — much to the delight of belted out “Happy night before the likes the magazine’s editor in chief, Amy Astley, who didn’t miss a beat. Birthday” in a breathy of Catherine Deneuve “I am going to make her do a story while she is out there,” Astley Monroe style. Americans and Nicole Garcia. said. “She will defi nitely be able to fi nd all the cool teens.” Susan Casden, Kassidy “I’ve always collected Choi Schagrin, and bathrobes,” explained GOING SOLO: Gen Art is changing direction — for now. The Christine Suppes opted for Robin, saying his organization, which is dedicated to showcasing emerging Christian Lacroix couture, vintage collection talent and highlighting their work during fashion week, has while Becca Cason Thrash spans the ages and changed its format for the fall 2008 season. For the fi rst time, wore Dior and Suzanne contains many from it will present only one designer at New York Fashion Week — Sapperstein tried on Old Hollywood movies. Denmark native Camilla Staerk. Her collection, which is under Stéphane Rolland. Across One, for instance, was the Staerk label, will be presented in four consecutive shows, the room, Danielle Steel worn by Tony Curtis in one every 20 minutes, on Feb. 8 from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. at the held court with daughters “Some Like It Hot.” Scandinavia House at 58 Park Ave. “We are always working on Samantha and Vanessa Robin’s new bathrobes new ways to present our shows,” said Lee Trimble, Gen Art’s Traina. are made-to-order in his Catherine fashion director. “We will still continue to do our group shows Moore, in gray atelier employing four Deneuve in the future, but we just thought that Camilla would be great PHOTO BY LUC CASTEL LUC PHOTO BY Yves Saint Laurent seamstresses, ages 76 on her own. With her we can support someone fresh, new accessorized with the to 82, and chosen for their savoir faire. However, none of this and innovative, but she’s still established enough that would obligatory Boucheron is to say a change of career is in the works for Robin — his merit us giving her all of our support.” Known for her dark and sparklers, is the main focus remains on hair hues. “I have no ambition to be a romantic designs, Staerk is taking the sculptor Louise Nevelson house’s mascot for the designer,” said Robin. “I make my bathrobes for fun.” as her muse for the fall show, titled “Bride of the Black Moon.” WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 11 WWD.COM Levi’s Extends Original 501 Design Campaign Cotton Inc. Licenses Updated Trademark By Ross Tucker NEW YORK — Cotton Inc. is amping up the campaign to evi Strauss & Co. is offering aspiring designers the same opportunity to reimagine improve its environmental image and market cotton as Lthe iconic Original 501 Jeans that was offered to contestants on Wednesday night’s a natural fiber, signing six companies to use its latest episode of “Project Runway.” “Natural” trademark. In the latest episode of Bravo’s reality show, now in its fourth season, the remaining AQ Textiles, Concorde Apparel, Cutie Pie Baby Inc., contestants were taken to Brooklyn’s industrial waterfront, where Levi Strauss began his Filo America, Legion Paper and Sure Fit have become the voyage to San Francisco in 1853, and asked to put their skills to work to develop their own fi rst licensees of the new trademark, which simply adds iconic garments using Levi’s trucker jackets and pair of 501 jeans. The winner’s design the word Natural under the traditional Seal of Cotton. will be offered through the company’s online store in a limited edition run of 501 pieces. Cotton Inc. is the research and promotional company for “We felt like the show was only getting stronger year after year and it provided us a U.S. cotton producers and importers. nice opportunity to integrate the brand,” said Robert Cameron, Levi’s vice president “This latest incarnation of the Seal of Cotton trademark The new cotton seal. of marketing. is timely, reminding consumers that cotton is a natural Levi’s has decided to extend the campaign and hopefully capitalize on the buzz by fi ber and a natural part of their lives,” J. Berrye Worsham, translating it into Web traffi c through an online competition dubbed Project 501 that will president and chief executive offi cer of Cotton Inc., said in a statement. allow any aspiring designer the chance to have his or her own interpretation produced Only two of the six licensees are involved in the apparel industry. Concorde and sold. The Project 501 Web site began accepting submissions late Wednesday night, and Apparel will use the trademark on sports coats and men’s corduroy, seersucker and offers would-be designers a toolbox of Levi’s elements to use in their designs, including velvet. Cutie Pie Baby makes clothing and linens for newborns and will use the rivets, denim swatches, leather patches and gold stitching. Contestants will submit images trademark on as many as 23 of its brands. AQ Textiles, Filo America, Legion Paper of their designs to the site. Each design must include at least one element from the 501. and Sure Fit will apply the trademark to products ranging from bedding to paper. Unlike “Project Runway,” a panel of celebrity judges won’t be crowning a winner. — R.T. Instead, those submitting de- signs to the online competition will be voted on by their peers. The pool of submissions will be winnowed down to the top 20 during the week of Feb. 21 and a winner will be revealed the fol- lowing week. “The intention is to take the fun from the challenge on the show and have people take off with it,” said Cameron. The winning designer will have a sample run of his or her submission produced, defined as somewhere between 10 and 20 pieces by Levi’s, and offered for sale through the company’s online store. Proceeds from the sales will be donated to a char- ity. The winner also will receive a Levi’s gift certifi cate for $501. The second-place fi nisher will receive a $501 gift certifi cate, and third place will receive $250. Stuart Weitzman Sues J.C. Penney For Infringement By Liza Casabona tuart Weitzman IP and Stuart SWeitzman filed a lawsuit against J.C. Penney Co. Inc. and Mark Tucker Inc. for alleged patent infringement. According to court documents fi led in Manhattan federal court on Jan. 16, Stuart Weitzman al- leged that Mark Tucker manufac- tured a shoe sold at J.C. Penney that infringed on a design patent the fi rm holds for a “Chitchat” shoe. The shoes sold at J.C. Penney were called “Miss Bisou ‘Sydney’ Patent Peep-Toe Flat.” Neither J.C. Penney nor Mark Tucker returned calls for com- ment by press time. Weitzman alleged that J.C. Penney sent an actual sample or copy of its Chitchat shoe to Mark Tucker “with a request for Mark Tucker to source virtually identical copies to be sold in competition with Chitchat.” The complaint also referenc- es a shoe manufactured by Mark Tucker for Sears Holdings Corp. called the Personal Identity Starlet shoe, which also alleged- ly infringes on the Chitchat pat- ent. Included in the complaint are pictures of the alleged shoes from J.C. Penney and Sears, both of which are black patent peep- toed shoes with a buckle detail across the front. Weitzman asked the court for an injunction, damages and trial costs and for the destruction of all the allegedly infringing shoes. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008

A rendering FRO R M of a regional E bus and train T hub designed T

E 8

by architect 0 L 0 SAN FRANCISCO Cesar Pelli to 2 , (New York topped the list, followed by Seattle; Washington; Boston; San Francisco; 4 open in San J 2 Los Angeles; San Diego; Chicago; San Jose, Calif., and Denver.) AN ARY Francisco in U “San Francisco is a global gateway city, a 24-hour city where the technology in- 2014. vestment is rebounding and expanding,” explained Steve Blank, co-author of the re- port, which describes “young techies,” eager to move to “this prototypical brainpower mecca.” But while San Francisco plans for its future, in the near term, there are some diffi cult issues to tackle. Police blame the prevalence of guns and gang violence for the increase in homi- cides last year to 98, the most in more than a decade and 12 more than in 2006. In a city that touts mass transit above cars — there is a no-new-parking-garage policy — pedestrian fatalities last year more than doubled to 30, including seven involving municipal buses and trains. The city also faces a potential budget shortfall of $229 million and subsequent cuts in city services, as Mayor Gavin Newsom has instituted a government hiring freeze. Lisa Rissetto, president of G. Hensler & Co., a San Francisco handbag and acces- sories design fi rm that has produced private label fashions for 30 years in Hong Kong for Gap Inc., Bebe and Nordstrom, among others, is an example of San Francisco’s “knowledge sector.” Last fall, Rissetto launched her own higher-end label, 49 Square Miles, a line of slouchy bags at $350 to $750 made of soft Italian and French leather with few adornments. Named for the city’s geographical dimension, the bags sell in 125 specialty stores nationally. “Business has been good,” she said, noting the midtier private label accessories business has slowed a bit with the economy. Another slice of San Francisco’s knowledge-power economy can be found at Britex, a fabric store across from Neiman Marcus in Union Square with a deep inventory of textiles and notions pristinely covering four levels, fl oor to ceiling. Sharman Spector owns the 56-year-old family business with her sister, Beverly, where 45 employees keep track of four fl oors of meticulous inventory without computers. “It’s a tactile business,” said Spector, who makes sales calls to European textile mills cultivated by her late Viennese-born mother, Lucy. “I have a real love for the quality,” she continued, feeling a bolt of $195-a-yard gray Italian wool and cashmere fabric sprinkled with a pat- tern of tiny leopard-print purses with silver handles. Britex still does a healthy business from customers seeking designer quality fabric to take to a tailor to create an outfi t — 20 percent of the business comes from tourists — but, as is the case elsewhere, the home-sewing market has waned with the times. Taking its place are troops of fashion design students from three city art colleges and local universities. “There has been a complete revolution of wonderful young stu- dents majoring in fashion design that is benefi ting us,” Spector said, attributing the interest to reality fashion TV shows. Britex is also a source for designers, and movie, television and theatrical costum- ers. Colleen Atwood picked up fabric there used in “Memoirs of a Geisha,” for which she won an Oscar. Britex fabric also appeared in the movie “Walk the Line” and in ABC’s “Ugly Betty,” and clothed backup singers for Celine Dion’s current tour. Costumers for director Gus Van Sant, fi lming a movie about Harvey Milk, the fi rst openly gay San Francisco supervisor and U.S. politician, have asked Spector to match fabric in the brown wool suit worn by Milk when he and Mayor George Moscone were Bustling by the Bay assassinated in 1978 at City Hall by Dan White. “They want us to match the fabric,” Spector said. (Milk will be played by Sean Penn and Dan White is to be portrayed by Matt Damon.) The tragedy became even more of a defi ning moment for the emerg- San Francisco is buzzing with new development, all while maintaining its green ing national gay rights movement when residents of the Castro, the city’s gay quar- — and fashionable — profi le. By Joanna Ramey ter, marched down Market Street to City Hall and rioted. Tempers had peaked when White, using a diminished capacity defense that became known as the “Twinkie de- SAN FRANCISCO HAS STARTED THE NEW YEAR WITH BIG IDEAS, SUCH AS fense,” was found guilty of voluntary manslaughter instead of fi rst-degree murder the leveling of the old Transbay Terminal to make way for a regional rail-bus hub in and sentenced to seven years in prison. In many ways, San Francisco continues to be the center of downtown that city officials say will be the “Grand Central Station of the a stage for change. In businesses’ sights is a new city plan to require companies of 20 West.” Designed by Argentine architect Cesar Pelli, the complex, to be completed in or more workers to provide employee health care, part of Newsom’s plan for all resi- 2014, will have a triangle-shaped tower, glass passenger terminal with wavy sides and dents to have health insurance. Equally unpopular among back offi ces is the year-old a 5.4-acre park as its roof. city law requiring workers to be paid sick leave. “It’s like a socialist state,” grumbled Nearby, offi ce towers are planned, such as one by Italian architect Renzo Piano, one real estate offi cial. who, across town in Golden Gate Park, recently fi nished a sod-covered, eco-friendly Newsom, seen as a rising star in the national Democratic Party, also pledges to California Academy of Sciences museum opening this spring. In addition, an infl ux further boost San Francisco’s green credentials by having the municipal bus fl eet run of luxury condo towers south of downtown with sweeping Bay Area views is reshap- on biodiesel restaurant grease; charging a traffi c-congestion toll to drive certain busy ing the skyline, which, since 1972, has been defi ned by the 853-foot Transamerica roads, and generating renewable electricity citywide with solar and other sustainable Pyramid building. technology, like turbines running off of heavy currents under the Golden Gate Bridge. Further south, cutting-edge biotech laboratories are fi lling new low-rise, high-tech In addition, by year’s end all commercial buildings will have to change their old fl uo- campuses along the shoreline of Mission Bay, a reclaimed 303-acre railroad yard. rescent bulbs for energy-effi cient ones. Such bullish construction and high-tech investment helped San Francisco score “We are acting to protect our own unique urban environment,” he explained in fi fth place in a recent ranking of 2008’s best U.S. cities for real estate development his inaugural address. “San Francisco is now a testing ground for how a people and a and investment, prepared by the Urban Land Institute and PricewaterhouseCoopers. place can help reverse global warming.”

outerwear with the season’s defi ned waists, Grimm said, singling out a WHAT’S IN STORE FOR SPRING Kaufman Franco paper nylon belted jacket in sun yellow ($1,995) and a Sara Gueron navy V-neck shift with a waistband ($625). INDEPENDENT FASHION BOUTIQUES ARE TUCKED THROUGHOUT “The return of the waist in both dresses and denim” is expected San Francisco’s bustling neighborhood shopping districts. Here’s a sample to boost business for the Candy Store Collective, 3153 16th Street in of specialty women’s stores and how they interpret trends for spring. the Mission (candystorecollective.com), said partner Jennifer Jones. “The must-have fashion piece is an oversize scarf as a wrap or Examples the store carries are a Corey Lynn Calter fi tted pencil dress layered around your neck for a dramatic effect,” declared Cristina with a thin belt, black chiffon top and green silk printed skirt ($238), Moe, an owner of Hush, 1878 Union Street, in lower Pacifi c Heights straight leg jeans with a 9-inch rise by Good Society ($88) and wide- (myhush.com). The boutique is stocking colorful silk and cotton scarves leg high-waist trousers from Found Denim and Dittos. from India, some personalized for Hush with Hindu prayer prints ($150 Russian Hill boutique In Lieu, 2420 Polk Street (shopin lieu. to $200). Other expected standouts are the season’s bright colors, like com), is embracing trends like the safari and nautical looks, vibrant canary yellow seen in a silk sleeveless racer-back top ($245) by San fl oral prints and boyish-fi tted blazers and trousers. However, owner Francisco native Alexander Wang and a long sleeveless electric-blue Christina Claypool noted she won’t be stocking the season’s expected cardigan for $154 by Clu, which go with $500 patent leather totes in fuller-skirt fad. “My San Francisco customer is not a big skirt girl,” bright yellow, navy and white by Graham and Spencer. Claypool affi rmed, adding one-shoulder dresses seen on runways for The season’s primary colors are “great for San Franciscans” in the spring to her list of no-nos for the city’s fashion fl ock. Hush, a contemporary foggy summers, confi rmed Melissa Grimm, partner in Carrots (sfcarrots. Rather, arriving at In Lieu this spring will be more in the likes of the boutique on Union Street. com), 843 Montgomery Street, in the Financial District. Also expected above-the-knee navy linen-blend safari dress by Dace ($271) or a blue to score with local shoppers are casual dresses and lightweight and white seersucker fi tted sportcoat designed by Built by Wendy ($299).

EDITOR’S NOTE: This is the fi rst installment of a regular feature, “Letter From…,” which will explore retail, fashion, real estate, social and other developments in various domestic and international cities. For more on San Francisco, see WWD.com. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 13 WWD.COM TAKING IT TO THE STREETS

IT’S EASY TO SEE WHY SAN FRANCISCO ATTRACTS surfers, skateboarders, snowboarders and skiers, since the Pacifi c Ocean is a quick drive from anywhere in the city, hills are everywhere and the Sierra Nevada slopes are a few hours away. The urban action sports crowd has been a part of San Francisco’s counterculture for decades and is now a part of the worldwide urban streetwear craze, which Bilbao, Spain- based Skunkfunk is riding into the U.S. Eight months ago, Skunkfunk opened its fi rst store in North America in San Francisco’s Mission district. A second lease this month was signed for a store on New York’s Lower East Side and a location in Los Angeles is being scouted. “It’s edgy, but versatile,” is how Sheri Calvert, a Skunkfunk A Latin-inspired mural in U.S. sales representative and surfer, describes the women’s and San Francisco’s Mission neighborhood. men’s line, which is also wholesaled to 200 boutiques in the U.S. and Canada that caters to skateboarders, surfers and DJs, as well as indie fashion stores. “The skaters really dig Skunkfunk, but at the same time, we sell to Fred Segal in Los Angeles.” Among the women’s fashions for spring are a soybean and cotton jersey jumper with a crisscross front bodice and built-in bloomers in olive for $60, and a khaki cap-sleeved dress with snap epaulets and a tab collar and deep side cargo pockets on Riding the Retail Wave the skirt for $80. The Skunkfunk label expanded to specialty stores in Expanding retail and job growth are driving real estate development. Europe after starting in the Nineties selling graphic T-shirts at music festivals. Skunkfunk stores are run by licensees. There WHEN IT COMES TO SCOUTING WHERE TO LOCATE spiked 27 percent, the strongest growth in seven years are fi ve stores in Spain and one each in Dublin and Berlin. fashion retail, the City by the Bay remains a sure bet, — just before the city’s robust dot-com economy hit As part of its creative underpinnings, Skunkfunk associates having so far largely skirted the economic fallout from the the skids. Some tenants are now complaining rents itself with artists and musicians — a marketing strategy subprime mortgage fiasco, which has slowed consumer are out of kilter with the market, according to several that also will be pursued in North America. For example, in spending elsewhere in northern California and nationally, real estate brokers. The weighted-average asking rent Europe, the brand is collaborating with avant-garde Swedish according to real estate investors and brokers. for prime Class A offi ce space is now $49.14 per square artist Jonas Liveröd to create installations in stores in Madrid “If there’s any impact, it’s more of a cautious at- foot a year, and Class B space is $34.72, according to and Berlin. “We’re inspired by music and art,” Calvert said titude,” observed Kazuko Morgan, senior director of Grubb & Ellis. The issue could come to a head this when asked what makes Skunkfunk tick. San Francisco retail at real estate broker Cushman year when leases for several blocks of offi ce space are Edgy, often surrealistic art tie-ins, some with graffi ti & Wakefi eld. However, “there are a lot of deals in the due for renewal. “The question is whether or not the painters, are part of the streetwear culture in the U.S. and works,” Morgan said. “Retailers are either relocating current health in the market can be sustained,” said a Canada as well, and are generously represented in San to Union Square or to other high-profi le locations or Cushman-Wakefi eld market report. Francisco skateboard, surf and ski shops. In many cases, expanding, and we are still continuing to see a fair A factor in all real estate equations is the limited these stores are becoming as savvy about apparel and design amount of European tenants enter this market.” free space in the city to be developed within the con- as they are about defying gravity in their action sports. Since 2005, after recovering from the dot-com bust fi nes of its 49 square miles that requires high-density “This year, we’re going to branch out to do more cut-and- of 2002, San Francisco has seen a fl urry of specialty building. New developments with a retail component sew,” said San Franciscan Tory Treseder, a champion skater stores locating to its Union Square shopping district are being focused south of Market Street among condo who designs $22 silk-screened T-shirts and $65 hoodies for downtown. The influx of fashion specialty stores towers that are changing the skyline; biotechnology of- his label, Heat, which is now carrying some women’s sizes. — from Bloomingdale’s to Barneys New York, Juicy fi ce campuses are on the waterfront in Mission Bay The merchandise is sold online, at skater stores and at D- Couture to Miss Sixty — and the addition of a second where cargo ships once called, and in the Bayview, a Structure, which Treseder opened two years ago in the Lower indoor shopping mall have reinvigorated the neighbor- low-income neighborhood, a new light rail has sparked Haight with two other top skater-designers of T-shirts and hood already anchored by Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman investor interest in development. Still on the draw- hoodies under the labels Able and Valo. (There are also two Marcus and Nordstrom, as well as Macy’s West Coast ing boards is a proposed new cruise ship dock on San D-Structures in Montreal and Quebec City, run by Treseder’s and Levi’s fl agships. Francisco Bay near where the city’s Giants baseball skiing and snowboarding friends.) “There is still a great deal team plays in AT&T Park. For sale on D-Structure’s walls in San Francisco are of interest among retail- Also planned for south abstract oil paintings and limited edition skis fancifully ers who want to come here,” of Market at Hunter’s Point painted by champion ski jumper Eric Pollard. T-shirts neatly said Julie Taylor, a principal — a 500-acre former Navy line a long shelf below the art in a spare presentation. with broker Cornish & Co. shipyard — is a “retail town An urbanwear competitor down the block, Upper “Demand is being fueled by center” of still-undetermined Playground, has extended its artist tie-in to operating a tremendous job growth in bio- makeup, along with 8,500 low- separate gallery and publishing limited edition art books that technology research and other income and market-rate con- are also sold at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. One technology, which gives us a dominiums and apartments. of Upper Playground’s featured artists, with a T-shirt, hoodie larger base of affl uent, sophis- Additionally, if San Francisco and tote line, is graffi ti-inspired painter Sam Flores. ticated consumers.” voters approve the plan, a new Rvca (pronounced Roo-ka) in upper Haight-Ashbury opened View of the Golden Gate Tourism — the local econo- stadium would be built there in November and sells apparel, although about a third of its Bridge from the Presidio. my’s largest engine — also re- for the 49ers football team. space is a gallery. The works shown are by artists who are mains strong, with the visitor’s Other obstacles to develop- internationally famous skateboarders and surfers competing bureau reporting hotel occupancy rates exceeding 85 ment in the city of 808,844 include several neighborhoods on Rvca-sponsored teams. The corner store’s display windows percent. Per capita income in the city is $55,801, the sec- like North Beach and Haight Ashbury having no-chain- also feature art by athletes and not a thread of clothing. ond highest in the country. San Francisco retailers also store policies. Compromises have been struck on limit- Rvca, based in Costa Mesa, Calif., is sold in more than 500 draw customers from around the Bay Area in wealthy ing the number of apartments and residential hotels that specialty stores including Nordstrom. This season is the fi rst enclaves like Silicon Valley an hour south and Marin convert to condos, as part of several steps being taken to time for Rvca women’s apparel. There are artisan T-shirts for County to the north across the Golden Gate Bridge. keep lower-income residents from being priced out of $31 — one has a brown wolf silk-screen print by surfer Ashley Luxury specialty stores planning to locate this year city housing. The city has a strict eco-friendly planning Macomber, and another, by skateboarder-artist Ed Templeton, is in the 20-block Union Square area include diamond pur- policy, including a no-new-parking garage policy. of a blue abstract women’s head with two sets of lips and noses. veyor De Beers on Post Street, New York sportswear de- The area immediately south of Market from down- “It’s all about inspiring our generation, providing signer Tory Burch on Maiden Lane and Prada, which is town is lacking retail of any kind. Stores that have something of substance and culture as a united family and upgrading from a tiny shop on Geary Street to an 18,000- found spots among light industry, warehouses, modern close-knit community,” said assistant manager Sara Pavao square-foot space on Post Street across from De Beers. condo complexes and residential hotels include out- — who’s also an artist. Demand for space is also driving retail store rents door clothing outfi tter REI and a cluster of retail sites up in the prime Union Square district, with landlords tucked under a garage that include a Trader Joe’s, asking 10 percent more than a year ago, Morgan re- Nordstrom Rack, Pier 1 and Bed Bath & Beyond. ported. On average, Union Square rents are generally Upcoming this year in the neighborhood at Fourth $275 to $300 a square foot, she noted. and Harrison is a T.J. Maxx, the fi rst in the city, and San Francisco is enjoying part of a larger Bay Area across the street will be Fresh & Easy, a grocery store wave of retail sales growth, although the pace has by London-based food retail giant Tesco. slowed since last year, according to commercial real- “We are bullish on San Francisco,” said Alicia tor Grub & Ellis’ 2008 real estate forecast. “The over- Glen, managing director of the Goldman Sachs Urban all slowing housing market combined with escalating Investment Group, which is developing the project energy and food costs is defi nitely weighing on con- and says the city has “not enough housing or retail.” sumers’ minds and pocketbooks, but has not translated Glen hopes to fi ll out the shopping area with an indepen- into negative performance for the Bay Area retail mar- dent coffee bar, and possibly “a funky, edgy local clothing ket,” the forecast observed. Last year marked the Bay and accessory or home furnishing store, a cool hardware Area’s fi fth consecutive year of retail sales growth. store and probably an organic dry cleaner.” National fashion The San Francisco offi ce market is also feeling names, she projects, will lag behind in locating on the Third some economic headwinds. As Union Square retail Street Muni metro line. “Those guys are a long way from lo- real estate further strengthens, offi ce rent increases cating there. Certainly some stores like Old Navy have been have cooled. For two years, prime downtown offi ce willing to go into lower income neighborhoods,” Glen said. buildings have changed owners repeatedly, with each “It will take another fi ve years before you can get some criti- subsequent buyer paying more and raising the rent. cal mass and no doubt national retailers will come.” D-Structure street looks in the Lower Haight. According to Grubb & Ellis, offi ce rents last year — J.R. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 WWD.COM

FRO ER M T T VITAL STATISTICS E

L

8

0 0 2 J 4, AN 2 POPULATION: 808,844 UARY SAN FRANCISCO PROJECTED POPULATION Winter rain storms blowing off the Pacific Ocean also have created a perfect excuse to show 2020: 818,163 off your boots and light winter coats or wraps in the swim of shoppers in Union Square. And besides layering, locals in the City by the Bay love a good chapeau, because you never know POPULATION FOREIGN BORN: when the year-round breezy weather might turn from brilliant seaside sunshine to brisk and 37 percent damp. This winter, urban knit beanies have been overtaken by brimmed caps in newsboy, Carnaby Street go-go and Dick Tracy styles. LANGUAGES OTHER THAN ENGLISH SPOKEN AT HOME: 46 percent

PER CAPITA INCOME: $55,801

PER CAPITA INCOME U.S. RANKING: Number two

UNEMPLOYMENT RATE: 4.2 percent (State of California unemployment rate, 6.1 percent; Los Angeles County unemployment rate, 5.6 percent; national unemployment rate, 5 percent, per U.S. Department of Labor.)

OFFICE VACANCY RATE: 10.8 percent

MEDIAN HOME PRICE (NOVEMBER): $814,500

HOME PRICE INCREASE YEAR-OVER-YEAR: 7 percent

DAILY VISITOR SPENDING: $21.3 million

HOTEL OCCUPANCY RATE: 86.4 percent

ANNUAL PRECIPITATION: 22 inches

RAINY SEASON: May to September

SOURCES: U.S. CENSUS; STATE OF CALIFORNIA; SAN FRANCISCO CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU;

PHOTOS BY JOANNA RAMEY PHOTOS BY GOLDEN GATE WEATHER SERVICE WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 15 WWD.COM Madewell Names Gigi Guerra Partying Vegas-Style for Palazzo, Barneys LAS VEGAS — A trio of water nymphs perform- As Brand Marketing Director ing dance moves in a reflecting pool, three models standing in another pool wearing long gowns — with By David Moin enough feathers to make a peacock jealous — and Ascot-meets-Philip Treacy hats were among the sights igi Guerra, a 10-year veteran of the magazine industry, has at the opening party here Thursday for The Palazzo Gjoined Madewell as director of brand marketing, a new position resort, hotel and casino and Barneys New York. at the J. Crew Group start-up division. Women in togas and men wearing loincloths, HARAWAY BRYAN PHOTO BY Guerra was most recently editor at large of Lucky, where she looking as if they had escaped from Caesars wrote monthly travel shopping guides and traveled around the Palace, stood preening on ledges on either side of world to report on new stores and discover those falling under the a huge waterfall as orchestral renditions of rock radar of the general population. songs such as “Born to Run” played in the back- Previously, she was a senior editor at Jane, where she wrote on ground. At one point, acrobats descended from the topics from enduring wilderness camp to life in a convent, as well ledge on red cords tied to their ankles. as celebrity profi les. Guerra was a freelance lifestyle writer and Las Vegas is about nothing so much as contradic- started her career at YM. tions. Barneys executives, ensconced in their three- “She has incredible instinct for what’s out there and what’s com- level, 81,000-square-foot store, seemed oblivious to the ing, and totally gets it,” said Millard “Mickey” Drexler, chairman fashion crimes being committed outside their door. and chief executive offi cer of J. Crew Group. A cast of bold-faced names paraded down a red Guerra will report to Margo Brunelle, senior vice president carpet and into a celebrity holding pen, while others of marketing and public relations for J. Crew, Madewell and wandered into Barneys to check out the merch. “This Crewcuts. is the most brilliant, hilarious, fun opening,” said Compared with J. Crew, Madewell offers an edgier take on ca- Barney’s creative director, Simon Doonan, stand- sual clothes and is priced 20 to 30 percent less. The brand was born ing beside “Desperate Housewives” star Nicolette Mandy Moore, Hilary Swank and Claire Danes. from the vision of Drexler and inspired by the former New Bedford, Sheridan. “I feel like Margaret Mead. I’m studying Mass., workwear company that bore the Madewell label. Strategy Las Vegas. It’s such a cross section of people.” Van Cleef & Arpels, Bottega Veneta and Coach, has centered on viral marketing, including word of mouth and blogs, Hilary Swank sat in a corner with some friends, among others, but most have yet to open. as well as collaborations with DJs at stores. refusing to speak to the press and prompting some Dressed in a drapy pale gold Donna Karan “Madewell is really about a cool girl,” Guerra said Wednesday. to wonder why she came out at all. But Mandy dress, Claire Danes admitted it was her fi rst trip “She reads blogs, has cool friends and she’s out in the clubs. She’s Moore, Rebecca Romijn and Angie Harmon were ef- to Las Vegas. But she didn’t come to shop. “There her own personal stylist, and mixes things in a creative way. She’s fusive, revealing that they snuck into Barneys before was a big sale at Harvey Nichols in London,” she the point person, stylistically, among her circle.” Traditional mar- the opening for a private spree. “It was like being said. “I did my damage there.” keting techniques don’t really apply, she added. “Madewell is a in Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory,” said Moore, The actress, who just finished starring in more creative brand.” who bought a pair of sparkly Lanvin shoes. Romijn, “Pygmalion” on Broadway, favors New York de- However, like other apparel brands, Madewell is looking to who scored three pairs of Lanvin shoes and a Marc signers. “I’m very biased,” she said. “I’m very good build its following and sales volume, and open additional stores. A Jacobs dress, said, “I grew up on Seventh Avenue friends with Zac Posen and Narciso Rodriguez. two-level, 2,650-square-foot store at 486 Broadway on the corner of and 17th Street in Manhattan [site of the original I think Ben Cho is really great. [But] I also love Broome Street in SoHo is to open next month. It’s Madewell’s fi rst Barneys]. The stuff here is different for Las Vegas.” Lanvin and Balenciaga.” permanent Manhattan store, and will replace the temporary unit at The Palazzo, which is linked on three levels to Christina Ricci was also taking a hiatus from shop- 532 Broadway in SoHo. the adjoining Venetian property, is the tallest hotel ping. “I’m not allowed to buy any clothes right now,” Madewell launched in fall 2006. There are locations in NorthPark on the Strip at 50 stories. The 450,000-square- she said. “I’ve reached my quota.” But there were no Center in Dallas; Century City Mall in Los Angeles; The Domain in foot Shoppes at The Palazzo features Diane von restrictions on gambling. “I really love gambling.” Austin, Tex.; Fashion Show Mall in Las Vegas; The Mall at Short Furstenberg, Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin, — Sharon Edelson Hills in Short Hills, N.J., and the Natick Collection in Natick, Mass. Stores average 2,500 to 3,000 square feet in size. SeaWeb Turns to Fashion To Aid Coral Reef Cause By Sophia Chabbott eaWeb, the ocean conservation organization, is depending on the Sfashion industry to save coral reefs. The nonprofi t organization teamed up with Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Tiffany & Co. chairman and chief executive offi cer Michael J. Kowalski, Chantecaille owner and founder Sylvie Chantecaille, Lela Rose, Vena Cava’s Sophie Buhai and Michael Aram in launch- ing Too Precious to Wear, a campaign to raise awareness of ocean corals. ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY All were present at a kick- off luncheon on Wednesday in Manhattan. Editors from various magazines attended the event and were encour- PASTELS 8.5X11 GOLD PAPER RM aged not to promote coral in their pages and to educate readers about the perils of destroying the reefs. Corals around the planet have depleted by 1 to 2 per- cent a year for the past 25 Tiffany’s Michael J. Kowalski, Julia Louis- years, four times faster than Dreyfus and Dawn M. Martin of SeaWeb. the depletion of the tropical rainforests. Too Precious to Wear is intended to educate fashion editors, designers and consum- ers to understand that coral is an animal that provides marine life food and fertile grounds for reproduction. The depletion of such reefs would harm the entire equilibrium of the oceans. Coral reefs provide goods and services that amount to $375 bil- lion in tourism each year. “There’s a lot of ignorance on the subject,” said Kowalski, who barred the selling of coral jewelry at Tiffany & Co. fi ve years ago. “Tiffany has long recognized the debt we owe to the natural world.” Louis-Dreyfus works with several organizations to help the ocean in California, including Heal the Bay and Heal the Ocean. “The thing about the ocean,” she said, “is that, because people can’t see what’s in it, they’re using it as a dumping ground.” In addition to raising awareness on the topic, SeaWeb is trying to pass the Coral Conservation Act. The act, which is pending in Congress, would help monitor trade in coral. 16 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 WWD.COM Not Afraid of the ‘R’ Word By WWD Staff t least one major industry executive isn’t pussyfoot- Aing around the “R” word: Lew Frankfort, chairman and chief executive of Coach Inc., said the economy is in the midst of a consumer-led recession. In an interview Wednesday, Frankfort said the reces- sion began in December and “is unlikely to evaporate any time soon. A tax stimulus package will help, but this recession needs to run its course. Things should start improving in the second half of calendar [year] 2008.” Frankfort discussed the economy as Coach reported an 11 percent rise in second-quarter profi ts, beating analysts’ estimates by 1 cent. The improvement helped drive Coach’s shares up 6.2 percent to $29.19 as inves- tors generally rallied Wednesday and took retail stocks along for the ride. And Coach wasn’t the only company to express con- cern over the economy even as it remained bullish for the remainder of the year. Compagnie Financière Richemont revealed a spending slowdown in the U.S. and Japan in December as it reported that overall group sales rose 8 percent in the third quarter. The slower sales in America and Japan chilled Richemont’s shares. French discount group Carrefour, meanwhile, saw a 7 percent sales gain in 2007 and said Wednesday it ex- pects revenues to increase this year by between 6 and 8 percent. Generally, though, U.S. markets shrugged off any eco- nomic worries a day after the Federal Reserve made an emergency 75 basis point cut in interest rates. While European markets were fl at or down on the day, at the bell, the Dow Jones Industrial Average added 298.98 points, closing up 2.5 percent to 12,270.17, while the S&P 500 rose 1.1 percent to 1,338.60. Earlier in the day, the Dow was down more than 320 points. The S&P Retail Index rose again Wednesday, up 4.2 percent to 410.80, After posting a 5.2 percent gain Tuesday, shares of Macy’s saw a 4.6 percent rise Wednesday. with bargain hunters lifting key retail stocks by between 3 and 10 percent. new Francine satchel in March, On Wednesday, Richemont shares hit a 52-week low, Big gainers included: Aéropostale relaunch SoHo in April and falling 6.65 percent, to close at 58.25 Swiss francs, or $53.45. Inc., up 12.1 percent to $25.96; The introduce the pleated Ergo for The company is listed on the Swiss stock exchange. Bon-Ton Stores Inc., up 15.6 percent Mother’s Day. Only about 30 The company did not provide its usual outlook for to $6.97, and Sears Holdings Corp., up percent of its bags are in leath- the coming months. 7.6 percent to $107.39. In the depart- er; the rest consists of a mixture During the three months ended Dec. 31, Asia-Pacifi c, ment store channel, Saks Inc. gained of fabric, with leather trim. and, in particular, China and Hong Kong, posted the 4.9 percent to $17.40 while Macy’s Inc. One thing the company did highest rate of growth — 21 percent. Sales in the Asia- rose 4.6 percent to $25.41. during the quarter was readjust Pacifi c region accounted for 23 percent of group turn- For the three months ended Dec. its prices on some bags to pro- over during the quarter. 29, Coach’s net income climbed to vide comparability with certain In Europe, sales growth was 10 percent, in line with $252.3 million, or 69 cents a diluted department store discounts that the fi rst six months of the year. In the U.S., sales were share, from $227.5 million, or 61 cents, were given to clear inventory fl at, due mainly to the weak dollar, and in Japan they in the same year-ago quarter. Sales for spring goods. Those sales ac- dropped by 6 percent, due to what Richemont called a grew by 21.4 percent to $978 million counted for less than 5 percent “challenging market.” from $805.6 million. Same-store sales of sales, and the company also However, at constant exchange rates, and not taking into in North America rose 7 percent, with declined to provide meaningful account currency fl uctuations, sales in the U.S. grew 10 retail stores down by 1.1 percent and specifi cs on whether those sales percent, while sales in Japan grew 2 percent. At constant factory store sales up 17.7 percent. In at the department store level exchange rates, overall sales at the group rose 14 percent. comparison, a year ago, comps were were negotiated up-front or were In a report on Wednesday, Jacques-Franck Dossin up 25.7 percent, with retail stores up considered markdown dollars. In at Goldman Sachs called the latest results “strong.” He 20.8 percent and factory store sales addition, the company said costs also noted that news of the December slowdown in the up 33.4 percent. are going up in China and that U.S. and Japan was affecting the stock on Wednesday. For the year-end period, the com- Coach ceo Lew Frankfort sees the fi rm well- the fi rm is looking at opportu- “We are surprised by this, as a slowdown in pany still expects earnings per share positioned for the months ahead. nities in lower-cost countries to December should have been expected by the market, of $2.06 on sales of $3.15 billion, up 20 migrate some of its production. after many comments on the matter by luxury retail- percent from a year ago. To meet that estimate, second- Coach also revealed plans to open its fi rst global fl ag- ers,” Dossin said. He noted that, overall, Richemont’s half EPS is expected at 97 cents on sales of $1.5 billion, ship in Hong Kong with distribution partner Imaginex. December sales grew by 10 percent. an increase of 17 percent from the year-ago period. The 9,400-square-foot store is slated to open this sum- A Richemont spokesman told WWD that the company Frankfort said Coach expects to be able to deliver mer at the intersection of Queens Road Central and was pleased with the quarterly sales. “Sadly, the market on its forecasts, in spite of the economic slowdown, be- D’Aguilar Street, at the start of Lan Kwai Fong. Coach is very nervous right now, but from our perspective, the cause of its “diversifi ed” business model. “We offer in- president and executive creative director Reed Krakoff business is in good shape,” he said. novative and relevant product to enable a consumer to is designing the space, which will feature a four-story The company did not give any profi t fi gures for the update her wardrobe. Accessories have a leading role glass and steel backlit Signature facade, while the in- quarter. It plans to publish full-year sales in April, and in updating a woman’s wardrobe. Even when she has re- terior will have a residential, New York feel with white a full set of fi nancial results after that. duced her apparel spending, she has at the same time marble fl oors inset with black cabochons and solid her- By product category, sales at the specialist watch- increased her accessories spending,” he said. ringbone planks. makers led the pack with 10 percent growth, followed While some consumers over the holiday season The store will carry a range of limited edition items by the writing instrument fi rms, with 9 percent, and jew- traded down and bought small leather accessories, in addition to a series of exotic hand-numbered bags. elry, with 7 percent. there were still consumers trading up and buying $400 In a statement from the company, Coach International The company said Chloé achieved growth of 9 per- handbags, the ceo said. During a conference call to Wall president Ian Bickley said that the store is expected to cent in the period. The statement said Dunhill reported Street, Frankfort emphasized the one thing consumers be one of the highest volume Coach stores in the world. “continuing good sales growth,” particularly through its are not doing is trading down from full price to factory “We intend to grow our Greater China store base from a own boutique network, while Lancel’s sales were “mar- store offerings. Michael Tucci, president of the North total of about 50 locations today in Hong Kong, Taiwan, ginally lower” than the comparative period. American retail division, said the $400-and-up category Mainland China and Macau, to about 80 over the next Carrefour, meanwhile, cited acquisitions and store represented 22 percent of handbag sales in 2007, versus few years,” he said, adding that Greater China has the openings for its 7 percent 2007 sales gain to 92.3 billion 13 percent in 2006. potential to quickly become the third major market for euros, or $126.8 billion. For the quarter, sales gained 10 Coach will continue to introduce new product assort- Coach, following North America and Japan. percent to 25.6 billion euros, or $37 billion. ments, but also will include a broader range of smaller-sized The Japanese market was a focus of analysts as By region, sales in France rose 4 percent while the bags at “compelling entry price points,” Frankfort said. Compagnie Financière Richemont, parent of brands rest of Europe gained 8.8 percent. Latin American Beginning Friday, the company will introduce its new including Cartier, IWC, Dunhill and Chloé, reported an sales increased 46.2 percent, and Asian sales jumped Heritage Stripe collection, featuring coated cotton can- 8 percent increase in third-quarter sales to 1.67 billion 12.9 percent. vas fabric totes and bags trimmed in leather. The col- euros, or $2.42 billion, broadly in line with analysts’ The fi rm said it expects a sales gain of 6 to 8 percent lection is Coach’s fi rst foray into the lightweight PVC forecasts. Japanese sales fell 6 percent and the U.S. this year, describing 2008 as “a breakthrough year.” The fabric arena, a fabrication that Frankfort described as market slowed last month, which sent the company’s company added in a statement that it expects “operat- “indestructible.” Upcoming, the fi rm will introduce its stock price tumbling Wednesday morning. ing profi ts to grow faster than sales.” WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 17 WWD.COM The Beat The Evolving Junior Department

By Julee Kaplan Guess hen it comes to targeting the junior customer, one thing continues Wis certain — companies are in for a real challenge. to be a With tough competition and a shift in teen spend- best-selling ing, the junior sportswear category continues to face brand at major headaches. As teens become more fashion-savvy, Macy’s. they head to contemporary departments to stock up on brands such as Juicy Couture and True Religion, and ap- pear to be less interested in lower-priced junior labels. This shift can be seen across the board, as many teen retailers reported steep declines in same-store sales for the holiday season; Pacifi c Sunwear just revealed plans to close its 154 D.e.m.o. stores, which targeted the junior streetwear market, and department stores work to keep up with popular specialty chains such as Hollister Co. and Urban Outfi tters Inc. The teen category is also changing outside apparel. As more members of that age group head to the Internet for entertainment and information, magazines targeting teens continue to struggle. Where there used to be six major titles aimed specifi cally at the teenage reader, there are now only three — Seventeen, Cosmogirl and Teen Vogue. Ellegirl, YM and Teen People have all folded. There is some good news, though. While experts say teen spending is down overall, apparel is still a popular purchase for teens. According to a study done by Teenage Research Unlimited, a fi rm based in Northbrook, Ill., teens spent $100 per week on personal purchases in 2006, with clothing being the most popular thing to buy. Total teen spending in 2006 amounted to $179 billion. That said, another study released in October by research fi rm Piper Jaffray & Co. showed teens are spending less on apparel, with a 24 percent decline since the spring. Teen girls are the ones cutting back, dropping 18 percent compared with a 9 per- cent decline for young men. Heatherette’s popularity There remain clear winners in the category, in juniors is growing. however. The study found Hollister leads the pack among teens’ favorite places to shop for the sixth consecutive year. The subsidiary “Guess does very well and they the business for years, fi rst founding junior megabrand of Abercrombie & Fitch Co. was followed are the highest-priced line on the XOXO. He agrees with Cohen, saying the older women by West Coast Brands, American Eagle junior floor,” he said. “They shopping in the department are not often targeted. Outfi tters Inc., Abercrombie & Fitch Co. have always positioned them- “If you go to the junior department at Macy’s Herald and Forever 21. selves as a young contempo- Square at 2 p.m. on a weekday, you won’t see that 13- What is clearly missing from that list rary brand, which has really year-old shopping there,” he said. “You will see that is a major department store name. As worked. Guess is a great suc- crossover customer. The woman who isn’t in school. teens favor specialty stores to complete cess story.” She may be buying for her teen, but she’s also buying Smith said while tradi- for herself.” tional junior brands like Fiene said he believes some progress has been made, [A young girl] will XOXO and Rampage have sig- as department stores continue to strive to compete with “ nifi cant spaces on the junior stores like Bebe, Forever 21 and H&M. spend her money on fl oor, brands like Heatherette, “If junior departments stayed the way they used Harajuko Lovers and Japanese to be, there would be no more junior departments,” a pair of True Religion label Tokidoki are quickly grow- he said. “It’s very important that we know who this ing in popularity. customer is — it’s the teen and her mother shopping jeans, so for us in the junior Marshal Cohen, chief indus- there. The junior fl oor is fi lled with women looking try analyst for The NPD Group, to get fashion for a price, they are renters, not own- department, those $30 said while he believes many ju- ers. The owners, with more money to spend, shop in nior brands have improved their contemporary.” jeans are a harder sell. product mix, there is still a lot of Sheryl Leff, junior market analyst at the New York- ” work to do. based The Doneger Group, said she thinks there is a void — Rob Smith, Macy’s East “The junior customer is more for more sophisticated, young contemporary clothes. complex, more savvy, more street- “There is a big opportunity there, a void in the young their wardrobes, department stores must wise than she used to be,” he said. contemporary space,” she said. “There is still that kid fi nd new ways to compete. “Do I think that Guess does a good who is not the traditional junior girl, she isn’t in school “The young girl has a lot of options these job? Yes. Do I think that Wet Seal is anymore, but is looking for her fi rst job. She is still in- days,” said Rob Smith, executive vice pres- doing a better job? Yes. But when fl uenced by celebrities and needs affordable clothes. ident, general merchandise manager for you look at the broader picture It’s almost as if department stores need to create a new juniors, dresses, suits, coats, swim, inti- here, there is still a lot to be done.” zone for this customer — she needs clothes for her fi rst mates, kids’, fragrances and cosmetics Cohen said that because teens job and clothes to wear out to a club. Forever 21 is fi lling at Macy’s East. “What I’ve found is that are getting larger, just like the the void to some degree, but there really isn’t enough of we have to work a lot harder to grab her. rest of the American population, it out there.” The price and product have to be right the junior sizing scale should be For Iconix Brand Group, which owns a range of ju- and it’s not as easy as it used to be.” reworked. nior brands including Rampage, Rocawear and Candies, Smith said since many teens are “I see the sizing issue as a evolving and upgrading product are a constant. spending in the contemporary depart- big dilemma. Junior sizing now “This whole junior sector has been evolving, even ment, they aren’t as price resistant as is geared to the girl with a very though each of our brands are all quite different. We’ve they used to be. That is a problem for small frame, and that just isn’t started calling them ‘young contemporary’ since they the junior area, since that was the de- how it is anymore,” he said. “The have become more sophisticated,” said Lanie Pilnock, partment teens used to turn to to stock junior customer is growing, just like vice president of trend and design at Iconix. “You have up on clothing, since it’s where they everyone else. I think that retailers and to target everyone on the junior fl oor. The teens are can get the most for their money. A look from manufacturers need to take a good look there, but there’s also that 20-, 30-, 40-year-old on the “We see her going more upscale, Selé, a at their customers inside and out.” fl oor who is looking for fast fashion. The challenge is to and she will spend more money on the new young Another issue that needs to be ad- capture that H&M, Forever 21 experience and bring it things she really wants,” he said. “She contemporary dressed in juniors, Cohen said, is the ac- to the junior department. It’s no longer about grabbing will spend her money on a pair of True line. tual junior customer base. It’s not always that back-to-school shopper who stocks up once a year. Religion jeans, so for us in the junior just a teen shopper on the junior fl oor, No one shops that way anymore.” department, those $30 jeans are a but her mom is also spending money In order to target all of these women, Pilnock said they harder sell.” there on clothing for herself. tend to target that 20-year-old, and the rest will follow. To be sure, there are labels on the ju- Gregg Fiene, chief executive offi cer of “Thirteen-year-olds want to be 20, and 40-year-olds nior fl oor that do quite well. Smith noted junior and young contemporary brands want to be 20, so 20 seems to be the magic age,” she said. Guess remains a best-selling brand. Selé and Taylor and Hyde, has been in “We target that 20-year-old attitude.” 18 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008

Apparel and footwear retailers are competing for valuable real estate in China, India and Japan. So, who are the key shoppers in the Asia- TheWWDList Pacifi c region? In China and Japan they’re young, female and fashion- conscious, which means the majority of retail giants cater to them. Meanwhile, in India, men’s wear and footwear dominate the top fi ve retailers in the country. Another factor in retail expansion — the Asia’s Retail Giants Olympics. China is a hub for sports retailers, and many, such as top- ranked Li Ning, are seeking to capitalize on the 2008 Summer Olympics The top apparel and footwear retail companies in China, India and in Beijing. — Cecily Hall Japan ranked by estimated number of stores in 2007.

LI NING CO. LTD. Total estimated store count in China at the end of 2007: 5,000 Li Ning is one of the leading sports brand enterprises in China. The group manufactures and sells products through its own Li Ning retail shops. Products 1 include sports footwear, apparel and accessories. “Strong economic growth and rising consumer spending…coupled with the upcoming 2008 Beijing Olympic Games, have created a favorable macro operating environment for the Group,” chairman Li Ning said of the company’s fi nancial performance last year. ANTA SPORTS PRODUCTS LTD. Store count: 4,500 ANTA Sports is Li Ning’s biggest competition in China. On Jan. 16, the company opened a fl agship in Shanghai, its fourth in China. ANTA, founded in 2 1994, offers basketball footwear, tennis footwear, outerwear, bags, hats and caps, socks and protective gear.

TEXWINCA HOLDINGS LTD. Store count: 3,386 Texwinca Holdings Ltd. acquired the Baleno trademark in 1996 and formed Baleno Holdings Ltd. The retail chain, whose stores operate under the 3 Baleno name, has grown signifi cantly in Mainland China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore and the Middle East over the last decade or so. There are CHINA more than 3,700 locations worldwide. Baleno offers fashionable, casual apparel to teens and young adults. PRIME SUCCESS INTERNATIONAL GROUP LTD. Store count: 3,264 Prime Success International offers products primarily under its Daphne and Shoebox retail stores. Daphne’s two lines of fashionable footwear, D18 4 and D28, speak directly to young women. In addition, the company has the retail rights to sell the “Adidas – Original Collection” within China.

DONGGUAN DONGYUE CAPARISON CO. LTD. Store count: 2,284 This clothing brand provides casual, trendy fashion for young adults under its Yishion stores. In addition to its apparel for men and women, the brand 5 features a line of versatile children’s wear. The company has been focused on aggressive global expansion. Yishion’s Web site states, “By expanding our retail network, our brand is generally recognized in certain cosmopolitan cities…this helps enhance our brand recognition and increase market share.”

BATA INDIA LTD. Total estimated store count in India at the end of 2007: 1,530 Bata has continued strong fi nancial performance thanks to its retail store expansion. The company stated in October, “Bata India Ltd. is on an 1 aggressive growth path and has implemented forward-looking initiatives like investments in large format stores, trendy collections and keeping the stores open seven days a week. These initiatives have resulted in a healthy 15.7 percent sales increase in the retail stores.” KOUTONS RETAIL INDIA LTD. Store count: 1,150 Koutons Retail India operates Koutons and Charlie Outlaw stores in this region. Koutons stores offer a range of apparel for men, ages 22 to 45. 2 Offerings include everything from formal to casual and partywear. And in 2006, the company relaunched its male-focused youth brand, Charlie Outlaw, by opening more than 100 exclusive brand outlets in northwestern India in just one day. LIBERTY SHOES LTD. Store count: 500 Liberty Shoes Ltd. is advancing in India through two store formats, Liberty Retail Revolutions and Footmart Retail India. Producing more than 50,000 pairs of shoes a day, the footwear and accessories brand has expanded into areas such as Mumbai and Delhi. In December, the company said it

INDIA 3 would open six to eight stores in the next three years, through a new subsidiary, Liberty Foot Fashion UAE. ADITYA BIRLA NUVO LTD. Store count: 457 Based in Mumbai, Aditya Birla Nuvo is a multinational corporation with retail operations under its Madura Garments division. One of the most 4 prominent brands is Allen Solly, which “has actively contributed in redefi ning modern Indians’ wardrobe,” noted IndiaPRwire.com. The brand has been expanding its collection to include women’s wear. Other names under this company include Louis Phillippe and Peter England, among others. THE RAYMOND GROUP Store count: 420 The Raymond Group’s shops feature top-of-the-line brands for men’s wear, including The Raymond Shop, Manzoni, Park Avenue, ColourPlus and 5 Parx. In addition to its locations in India, the retailer’s overseas network spans 27 stores in 15 cities across the Middle East, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Nepal. “We have now extended our reach with a presence in some of the leading malls with new retail formats,” the company said on its Web site.

SHIMAMURA CO. LTD. Total estimated store count in Japan at the end of 2007: 1,186 Under the Shimamura umbrella, this Japan-based retailer primarily sells apparel in four different formats. They include: Fashion Center, focused on 1 women between the ages of 25 and 45; Avail, featuring apparel and casual and dress shoes targeting ages 15 to 25; Birthday, which sells apparel and accessories for babies and children, and Chambre for women’s fashion goods. FAST RETAILING CO. LTD. Store count: 1,077 Fast Retailing’s chain of Uniqlo stores is probably the most recognizable name among the top fi ve in Japan. Uniqlo is a Japanese-based retailer, but 2 it is expanding globally. The retailer has more than 760 Uniqlo stores worldwide, including its global fl agship in New York that opened in fall 2006. Additional retail chains in its portfolio include Cabin and Onezone, among others. SANEI INTERNATIONAL CO. Store count: 957 Osaka-based Sanei International Co. manufactures and sells women’s, men’s and children’s clothing and accessories across Japan and internationally. 3 The company offers products through owned and franchised specialty and outlet stores under the Sanei banner. JAPAN

AOYAMA TRADING CO. LTD. Store count: 800 This company includes Yofuku-no-Aoyama, which operates men’s apparel chain stores mainly throughout Japan, Taiwan and Shanghai. Men’s apparel 4 consists of shorts, jackets, slacks, coats and casualwear. The company is also working to enhance its women’s suits line in order to expand its customer base.

SANYO SHOKAI LTD. Store count: 520 Sanyo Shokai is one the largest apparel manufacturers in Japan. One of its primary businesses is operating a clothing-related segment under its 5 Sanyo line of stores, which focuses primarily on outerwear. Everything from cashmere and wool dress overcoats to casual outerwear and rain gear can be found inside these stores.

SOURCE: EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL, A MARKET-INTELLIGENCE FIRM BASED IN LONDON; ESTIMATED STORE COUNTS FOR THE YEAR WERE TALLIED IN THE FALL OF 2007

20 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 WWD.COM

Shirley MacLaine as Coco Chanel.

The miniseries’ mock Rue Cambon.

The “Coco Chanel” set, spiral staircase and all. PHOTOS BY DAVE YODER DAVE PHOTOS BY La Grande Mademoiselle Shirley MacLaine takes on fashion legend Coco Chanel.

IT’S TUESDAY MORNING AROUND 10 O’CLOCK, AND fashion fi lm. I think they’re boring,” says Duguay, whose Shirley MacLaine is on her knees prepping a model for a directorial experience includes the aforementioned “Human Chanel fashion show. Given the spring 2008 couture schedule, Traffi cking,” as well as the miniseries “Joan of Arc,” which logic would have her assisting Karl Lagerfeld at Paris’ Grand featured MacLaine in a small part, and the controversial Palais. But in fact, MacLaine, clad in a bouclé tweed suit and “Hitler: The Rise of Evil.” For him, the appeal is in the a multitude of pearls, her signature red bob replaced with Shakespearean qualities of Chanel’s life. “We have rags to a brunette version, is in Rome, channeling Mademoiselle riches and a tremendous love story — they always work on Chanel circa her 1954 comeback collection. The city’s famed fi lm,” explains Duguay. “And what I think is interesting is the Cinecittà Studios, where Fellini and Scorcese have filmed, emergence of a woman who’s defi ning herself in a society have been transformed into a retro Rue Cambon for Lifetime’s where women are always there for their man. They’re always original miniseries entitled “Coco Chanel.” dressed to please their man, and she has a very modern The two-part series, set to air in November, chronicles perspective in a period time.” Chanel’s life, from her hard-knock beginnings in an orphanage MacLaine, too, found Chanel compelling for reasons other to her glamorous rise, fall and eventual return as a fashion than clothes and camellias. Although she attended a Chanel icon. And, as all good dramas go, there are the requisite show in her 20s and wore the fashions throughout the Fifties romances — namely her ill-fated affair with Captain Arthur and Sixties — “All knockoffs, I couldn’t afford the real thing” “Boy” Capel — aplenty. — after researching the role, she says, she was struck by the Slovakian actress and relative newcomer Barbora Bobulova designer’s strength, contradictions and indomitability. “What’s plays young Coco, while MacLaine stars as the elder Chanel, wonderful about her is she’s not a straightforward, easy following her return to Paris after a 15-year exile during and woman to understand,” says MacLaine, adding that she might after World War II. be interested in doing a feature fi lm on the mature Chanel, If the subject and star seem a little out of Lifetime’s should the opportunity ever arise. “The contradictions were sometimes schmaltzy league, consider this: The “women’s” colossal.” And particularly evident in Chanel’s many bon network’s recent miniseries repertoire includes weighty Director mots, which, according to Duguay, MacLaine delivers with material, as in 2005’s “Human Traffi cking,” and has attracted Christian natural aplomb. “She wouldn’t talk, she would pronounce,” award-winning talent like Mira Sorvino, Donald Sutherland and Duguay. says MacLaine, before reciting some of Chanel’s more famous Peter Fonda. Regardless, MacLaine took the role on the long-ago quotes, such as “Fashion belongs in the street, not in the advice of a trustworthy friend, none other than Audrey Hepburn. “When we worked home” and “Whatever makes women free makes them creative,” as well as one of her together she said to me, ‘You should think about doing Coco Chanel when you’re older,’” favorites, a rather graphic statement: “My c--- belongs to the world, my heart belongs recalls MacLaine. “That was in my 20s. I said, ‘You should do Coco Chanel.’ She said, to France.” MacLaine continues that it’s “like delivering a lecture — that’s what she ‘No. You.’ I’ve thought about it all that time and then this came up. I couldn’t believe it.” did. So, yes, I suppose I do fi t right into that.” Given its subject, aesthetics naturally feature prominently in the production. And Indeed, a post-interview photo shoot shows MacLaine has the Chanel act although the house of Chanel contends it had nothing to do with the production, — complete with obstinate attitude — down pat. “Shoot at a downward angle,” the set — the showroom’s mirrored walls, spiral staircase and facade on the mock she commands the photographer. “See, that’s better. Now get another girl with a Rue Cambon — as well as the costumes, MacLaine’s in particular, bear an uncanny hat, and they should be talking to each other,” she says, directing the extras in the resemblance to the real deal. “It’s been totally scrutinized,” says director Christian background, before striking a brooding profi le pose. “It was always like this with Duguay of the fi lm’s style quotient. “You see it from [Chanel’s] perspective, from Chanel. She never smiled in her life.” the high heels to the shortening of the skirts to having the arms being able to move It’s quite a performance. And considering MacLaine’s well-publicized convictions properly and why she puts chains at the bottom of the jackets so they hang better.” about the supernatural and reincarnation, perhaps a past-life connection provided But despite going beyond due diligence to achieve the look of the fi lm, it seems some inspiration? “Oh yeah,” she says with a laugh. “She’s talking to me all the time. the production’s major players are less interested in the fashion angle than in She’s saying, ‘Don’t stoop over like I used to. Stand up straight.’” Chanel’s personal story. “We brought [the fashion] in without trying to make a — Jessica Iredale WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 21 WWD.COM St. John Blends Classics and Fresh Styles By Marcy Medina and Anne Riley-Katz wear,’’ Kelly Gray said. “With all the climate change going on, there has COSTA MESA, Calif. — When St. John un- to be versatility for the seasons. It’s veiled its fall 2008 collection Tuesday night really a breath of fresh air.” at the Orange County Performing Arts Center Versatility was also the name of here, there were plenty of classic knit suits — the game in the evening category, what the company refers to as legacy pieces which represents 20 percent of St. — to appeal to core customers. John’s business. “Not everything is But there was more, too. Among the 80 about black tie or red carpet, there runway looks in the “Bright Lights, Big City” are tops people want to wear either show theme was fashion-forward apparel over a sophisticated dress pant or such as wide-legged and slim-legged pants, over jeans, and people want a top as bell-sleeved Mod-inspired dresses, graphic appropriate in Aspen as it would be patterned knits and sleeveless embellished at the Super Bowl,” Kelly Gray said. blouses. All were in bright colors and graphic The show was more heavily edited black and white. toward showcasing the evening looks, “We wanted to revisit our roots in terms of a move that McMahon said was a re- color; we had gotten away from that,” said Kelly sponse to the customers’ needs. Gray, who, along with her mother, St. John co- “We just want to make our cus- founder Marie Gray, is back at the Irvine, Calif.- tomers happy; that’s most impor- based company to consult on design. tant,” he said. “The theme was The Grays know better than anyone how to ‘Bright Lights, Big City,’ so it was serve their customers — 450 of St. John’s most very appropriate that we elevate loyal fans attended the show — which is the the novelty and color in the collec- reason chief executive offi cer Glenn McMahon tion. It was also an opportunity to and chairman Jim Kelley are pleased to have showcase some architectural and them back after a two-year absence precipi- structured shapes.” tated by former ceo Richard Cohen. Another category that has seen “I go out to the stores a lot, so I know Looks from growth is casualwear, done under what’s working and what’s not,’’ Kelly Gray St. John’s fall the Sport label that Kelley referred said. “You have to be sensitive like a cat to collection. to as a “category with a lot of growth stay alive in this business.” TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY potential.” Marie Gray said her inspiration for this and almost Another comfort piece that continues to be impor- Kelly Gray noted that the company “gets in trouble if every collection “is a woman — what she is doing and tant for the 46-year-old company is the dress, which we try to go too young and contemporary,” as evidenced where she is going. This year is so important with the Kelly Gray said is a key piece for St. John. This season, by the change in product during the tenure of Cohen election, and there are so many strong women. I want to dresses ranged from Mod-inspired minis to fi tted knee- and then-creative director Tim Gardner. dress them all, so I started with that.” length frocks in metallics, jewel tones, primary colors Marie Gray said St. John has done a lot to expand its But for Marie Gray, dressing a powerful customer and animal prints worked into their signature knits. The casual offerings, though eveningwear may have gotten doesn’t mean constricting cuts or fabrics. “We did a lot group showcased the company’s strength: domestically the lion’s share of exits on Tuesday. “There is a lot that of soft, easy-looking skirts, but they are sophisticated produced, advanced fabrics. people didn’t see tonight, but we didn’t want to make and anything but simple,’’ she said. “The modern woman “The new fabrics are more of a technical innovation the show too long,’’ she said. “We will probably have a is all about comfort; they do not want to suffer.” than anything else; they are so lightweight and easy to separate show in the future.” U.S. Troubles Cast Downbeat Shadow on WEF By John Zarocostas DAVOS, Switzerland — The World Economic Forum kicked off here Wednesday with a strong dose of 8ZklXccp# pessimism over the global ramifications of the slowdown in the U.S. economy. The tone was set before a day of wild swings on U.S. stock markets that ended with a surge of 2.5 percent, or 298.98 points, in the Dow Jones Industrial Average, which at one point dropped 326 points. k_\i\`jfe\jlYjk`klk\ “This year we are experiencing doom and gloom as the world enters uncharted territory,” Klaus Schwab, WEF founder and executive chairman, told delegates. “Irrational pessimism is as damaging for us all as irrational exuberance.” U.S. Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice, in a keynote address, said, “I know that many are con- ]fi\og\i`\eZ\% cerned by the recent fl uctuations in U.S. fi nancial markets and by concerns about the U.S. economy. The U.S. economy is resilient, its structure is sound, and its long-term fundamentals are healthy…and JZ_ffcf]:fek`el`e^Xe[Gif]\jj`feXcJkl[`\j our economy will remain a leading engine of global economic growth…so we should have confi dence.” Views varied widely over the likely depth and duration of the U.S. downturn and how it will affect =@K`j]fiZi\Xk`m\k_`eb\ijj\\b`e^gif]\jj`feXc the rest of the global economy, especially emerging Asian powerhouses such as China and India. [\m\cfgd\ek`eXikXe[[\j`^e#Ylj`e\jjXe[k\Z_efcf^p# Nouriel Roubini, chairman of Roubini Global Economics, told delegates the debate is not whether fik_\c`Y\iXcXikj%8[mXeZ\pfliZXi\\in`k_1 the U.S. will fall into recession, but the duration, predicting the decline would last as long as a year. The Federal Reserve Board’s decision to make an emergency interest rate cut of 75 percent basis ›

Continued from page one never had as much work to do step up the work already achieved in November 1999, creating a Yves Saint Laurent in fall 2006. conditions. Also under terms of in terms of acquisitions because to date. L’Oréal would also offer a new luxury goods conglomerate In recent years, YSL Beauté the agreement, L’Oréal would our philosophy now is to look at unique development platform for to rival LVMH Moët Hennessy has been roiled by management take over YSL Beauté’s licenses absolutely everything, to scruti- the Roger & Gallet, Boucheron, Louis Vuitton. At the time, beauty changes and restructuring. In for the Stella McCartney, Oscar nize all of the opportunities out Stella McCartney, Oscar de la industry executives and fi nancial 2007, Chantal Roos departed as de la Renta and Ermenegildo there. That doesn’t mean we’re Renta and Zegna brands.” analysts alike were convinced its president and ceo and Maggie Zegna brands in the fragrance going to make more acquisitions, Robert Polet, Gucci Group’s Gucci would sell at least a few Ciafardini as ceo and managing and cosmetics categories. but we’re not going to miss any ceo, said, “This agreement would of the beauty brands to recoup director of the division’s U.S. PPR would continue to acquisitions that are right up be key for Yves Saint Laurent. some of the money. But Gucci’s business. (Those positions were own the Yves Saint Laurent, our street. The strength and expertise of then chairman, Domenico De filled by Andrea Barbier and Boucheron and Stella McCartney L’Oréal would put the further Sole, and then chief fi nancial of- Marc Rey, respectively.) In 2006, brands. Meanwhile, the beauty Jean-Paul development of the brand on a fi cer, Robert Singer, said repeat- YSL Beauté sold its factory in license of Gucci Group brand Agon faster track. The collaboration edly they planned to hold on to Bernay, France, and trimmed 118 Alexander McQueen would not between L’Oréal and Yves Saint all the brands. jobs from its Neuilly-sur-Seine, be part of the transaction. Laurent Couture would assure “The beauty businesses are France-based headquarters. That YSL Beauté’s brands would the consistency of Yves Saint profi table, and they will remain number represented about 10 join L’Oréal’s luxury division, Laurent’s brand image.” profi table,” De Sole said. Singer percent of its French workforce. which already includes Lancôme, The news of a probable said later that Gucci intended to The largest part of YSL Biotherm, Helena Rubinstein, L’Oréal-PPR agreement quashes make “signifi cant investments” Beauté’s business stems from fra- Shu Uemura, Kiehl’s and long-standing market specula- in the beauty business. grance, which in 2006 generated Parfums Giorgio Armani, among tion that YSL Beauté would Although it has shown im- 66 percent of its overall revenues. other names. become part of Groupe Clarins. provements recently, YSL That year, cosmetics (which re- “This proposed agreement For months, industry rumors Beauté has been among the portedly clocks double-digit gains) represents a great opportunity swirled that PPR would offer its underperforming businesses at followed, with 28 percent, and for L’Oréal and its luxury prod- beauty division to Clarins in re- PPR in an increasingly competi- skin care, with 6 percent. Also that ucts division,” said Jean-Paul turn for up to a 30 percent stake tive market for fi ne fragrances. year, Europe produced 70 percent Agon, L’Oréal’s chief executive in the company, and even a right offi cer. “Yves Saint Laurent is a of fi rst refusal if the company is mythical French luxury brand. eventually sold. Clarins’ major- It is admired the world over and ity shareholders, the Courtin- This agreement would be key for is particularly complementary Clarins family, steadfastly main- “ with our current brands. We are tained their unwillingness to Yves Saint Laurent. The strength and convinced that its integration cede control of Clarins. into our luxury products divi- However, industry watchers expertise of L’Oréal would put the sion would speed up its develop- weren’t surprised PPR would ment. This strategic agreement ink a strategic agreement for further development of the brand on a will reinforce our position in the YSL Beauté, pointing out that luxury cosmetics market.” beauty is not core to PPR’s busi- faster track. The latest deal continues “We buy something because ness, which has a strong focus ” Agon’s aggressive acquisition we feel that it is a good piece of on retail and luxury goods. — Robert Polet, Gucci Group strategy since he succeeded the strategic puzzle,” he added. PPR’s retail banners include Lindsay Owen-Jones as L’Oréal’s PPR executives say a strate- Conforama for furniture; Fnac In the first half of 2007, the of YSL Beauté’s business; North ceo in April 2006. Just one gic deal with L’Oréal comes with for books, music and electron- beauty division swung into the America, 14 percent, and the rest month prior to the changeover, a multitude of pluses. ics, and the catalogue division black, posting recurring operat- of the world, 16 percent. while Agon was ceo-designate, “With this strategic agreement Redcats. In luxury goods, PPR’s ing income of 21 million euros, In the first half of 2007, the company snapped up The with the world leader in cos- holdings include Gucci, Bottega or $27.9 million at average ex- L’Oréal generated sales of 8.51 Body Shop. And since then, metics, Gucci Group gives YSL Veneta, Balenciaga, Boucheron change, versus a loss of 5 mil- billion euros, or $11.3 billion L’Oréal’s buys have included Beauté the opportunity to take and Sergio Rossi. Most recent- lion euros, or $6.1 million, in the at average exchange, a 9.4 per- Sanoflore, Beauty Alliance, full advantage of its upside poten- ly, PPR acquired a controlling prior-year period. The company cent increase against the same PureOlogy, Maly’s West, Canan tial,” said François-Henri Pinault, stake in activewear fi rm Puma. credited the improvement to a prior-year period. Total operat- and Columbia Beauty Supply. chairman and ceo of PPR. “It also PPR’s holding company leap in manufacturing produc- ing profi ts at L’Oréal, including During a fi nancial analysts’ enables the Yves Saint Laurent Artemis acquired Sanofi Beauté tivity and a restructuring plan The Body Shop business (con- meeting in September, Agon brand, in the fi eld of beauty, to (whose beauty business — today that reduced expenses. YSL solidated since July 1, 2006), explained his strategy, saying, fully align its ambitions with its called YSL Beauté — repre- Beauté’s sales reached 290 mil- came in at 1.44 billion euros, “You should only make an acqui- worldwide reputation. Yves Saint sented 85 percent of its sales and lion euros, or $386 million, up or $1.92 billion, an 8.1 percent sition when it makes true strate- Laurent would thus boost its po- whose Yves Saint Laurent fash- 5.8 percent, in the half. gain. L’Oréal’s operating profi t gic sense. Mr. [Christian] Mulliez sition as a great luxury brand. ion business, minus couture, gen- The YSL brand’s recent major as a percentage of sales was [the company’s executive vice With its expertise and knowledge erated the rest) in March 1999 for fragrance launches include the 16.9 percent. president of administration of international markets, L’Oréal $1 billion. Artemis then fl ipped women’s scent Elle last fall and — With contributions from and fi nance] and his team have would be able to continue and the business to Gucci Group the men’s fragrance L’Homme Ellen Groves and Miles Socha Clinique to Do Specialized Line for Allergan By Julie Naughton tunity. The Clinique deal marks the sec- the brand also established the Clinique Clinique and Allergan declined to ond time in the last few years that the Skin Wellness Center — intended to ad- discuss sales projections, and industry n the first deal of its kind for the Estée company has reached out to a leading vance clinical and research programs sources emphasized that this channel ILauder Cos. Inc., the firm’s Clinique department store beauty brand. at Manhattan’s Weill Cornell Medical of distribution is still in its infancy and brand has inked an agreement with In 2005, the pharmaceutical firm Center — in 2006. therefore largely uncharted. Still, sourc- Allergan that will result in a specialized signed a partnership deal with Elizabeth According to industry sources, es said that a line such as this one could line of Clinique-branded products to be Arden which has resulted in Arden Clinique’s annual retail sales topped $1.2 do in excess of $5 million at retail in its sold only in doctors’ offices. selling a department store version of billion in the U.S. last year. fi rst year. An offi cial announcement is expected Prevage, Allergan’s high-end idebenone “Beauty is changing so much and “In collaboration with Clinique, our today. antiaging product. Allergan still sells a evolving so much,” said Lynne Greene, goal is to establish a leadership position Under the terms of the deal, the two physician-strength version to dermatolo- global president of Clinique. “Consumers in physician-dispensed skin care by of- will produce skin care products to com- gists for exclusive use in that market. As can look in the mirror Tuesday, notice a fering a one-stop approach to specialized plement in-offi ce aesthetic procedures, well, Allergan manufactures M.D. Forté, wrinkle, and have it gone by Wednesday skin care products under a brand name such as laser peels and microdermabra- a glycolic acid-based skin care regimen, with a clinical procedure. This new world that is trusted by consumers and backed sion. Clinique will formulate, develop and and Vivité, a luxury antiaging line, both is being developed by Allergan, which by science on which physicians can rely,” manufacture the line, and Allergan will sold only in physicians’ offi ces. has a strong relationship with physicians. said David E.I. Pyott, Allergan’s chair- handle consumer and professional mar- According to Allergan, nonsurgical It’s time to go to a new place. By being man of the board and chief executive of- keting and distribution and record sales aesthetic procedures have increased present in doctors’ offi ces pre- and post- fi cer, in a statement. “The collaboration to physicians. The line will be sold by nearly 750 percent over the last decade, procedure, we also feel we’re enhancing combines Allergan’s leadership in medi- Allergan’s sales force, which is expected with consumers in the U.S. spending our dermatological credibility in depart- cal aesthetics and our deep understand- to add staff as a result of this agreement. more than $12 billion on cosmetic proce- ment stores. We are doing this deal for ing of the physician channel based on The fi rst products are expected for fall dures in 2006. strategic reasons and for the long term.” our Total Facial Rejuvenation portfolio 2008, and current plans are to launch six For Lauder, the partnership takes As a retail brand, Clinique is in about — including Botox Cosmetic, Juvederm products in the initial collection. one of its core brands into a market that 2,200 U.S. department stores. The medi- and our skin care product line — with Allergan, the Irvine, Calif.-based glob- builds on its heritage. Clinique, which cal line’s door count has not been deter- Clinique’s history of formulating leading al specialty pharmaceutical giant, which was created in 1968, has always posi- mined, said Greene. There are thought to consumer skin care products guided by also manufactures Botox and dermal tioned itself as a skin care authority, be at least 10,000 doctors for whom the dermatologists. Together with our com- fi ller Juvederm, clearly sees the prestige aiming to offer allergy-tested, fragrance- line could work, although sources say it is plementary strengths, we expect Clinique beauty market as a major growth oppor- free products vetted by dermatologists; unlikely that it will be with all of them. and Allergan to grow this market.” WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2008 23 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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New Jersey - Share Space Available Clean/Safe/lots of Windows +/- 500 sq’ office +/- 500 sq’ warehouse + common areas - $1,500.00 mo. Has moved to 1400 B’way (28th Call Tom: 732-715-3525 Merchandiser fl) 19,000 sq ft and we are expand- Selling Specialist ing in the following areas: LAGOS, a luxury jewelry brand has an exciting opportunity for a PT LAGOS a luxury designer jewelry brand, has a NY based opportunity SALES Selling Specialist representing our collection at Bloomingdales 59th Showrooms & Lofts for an experienced Merchandiser. Responsibilities include in-store Street and Lexington Avenue, in New York. Ideal candidate will have merchandising, store management relations, sales associate training. Jr Bottoms Sales Exec. Must have BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS strong Dept Store contacts. experience in sales with luxury or upscale retailers or boutiques. Must Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Execute trunk shows, communicate store needs to AE. 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No phone calls please. experienced with Factoring, C/B reso- skills. lution, assignments, collections, post- Leading Junior Fashion Apparel Com- ing cash and credit card transactions. pany seeks exp’d Spec Technician PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Data entry and weekly/monthly report with strong knowledges of grading gar- Must have 2-3 years exp in denim, DENIM - SALES DIRECTOR reconciliations are also required. Com- INTIMATE APPAREL puter literacy is a must and communi- ments construction and fittings. We Must be organized & detailed. DL1961 Premium Denim is looking cation skills, both written and verbal are looking for a team player w/ excel- E-mail or fax your resume and to appoint Sales Director to build SHOWROOM NEEDED are essential. lent computer & communication skills. International intimate apparel Please send resume to: salary requirements to: National Sales Manager and lead a team of Sales Agents. [email protected] E-MAIL OR FAX RESUME TO: [email protected] or 212-382-3047 manufacturer looking to lease Must have 3-5 years experience in [email protected] National sales manager for Velvet, similar position. E-mail resume & space on Madison Ave. Requires Admin Since 1967 212-391-0881 high-volume t-shirt line, to grow salary history: [email protected] reception area and showroom W-I-N-S-T-O-N sales regionally and with major plus stock area. Immediate oppor- APPAREL STAFFING stores. Based in NY, with travel to tunity. Call: (718) 482-0100 x249 DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Sales Executive ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION LA. Min. 5 yr industry experience, Little Miss Matched is seeking an (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 Designer / Merchandiser Operations Manager Contemporary Sportswear co. seeks Mgr must have deptartment store exp. experienced sales executive who Well established Gold & Sliver Mfr. & w/3-5 yrs exp. in operations/ distribution understands branded concept selling Distributor seeks an exp’d. Designer / & allocation, Pick tkts, Factoring, In- Resumes to: to work with existing major retail Merchandiser to identify & merchandise voicing. UPC’s/EDI, System is Visual [email protected] accounts and to develop new business. into new growth opportunities. Must 2000. [email protected] We are a rapidly growing, fast paced, be able to work w/Dept./Specialty Stores tween oriented, fun company. Visit our ASSISTANT DESIGNER and Mass market buyers to grow sales website at www.littlemissmatched.com Designer w/strong tech skills for and distribution. International travel Production & Sourcing Mgr. EXPERIENCED to learn more about us. Kindly submit Childrens mfr. Must have ability to will be required. Please E-mail resume Jr. contemporary line. Work independ- compensation requirements along create Illustrator flats, tech packs, to: [email protected] ently. Coordinate between design and SALESPERSON with your resume to: specs, track samples, update charts, & [email protected] production, order placement – mainly Sportswear company looking for expe- comm. daily w/fctys. 30-35k. Email resume Domestic & China, follow-up on quality [email protected] rienced sales person with 5 years or and delivery. Fax or E-mail resume to: more following in sweaters, novelty 212-594-7962 / [email protected] jackets and outerwear. Department BUYER - Multi-Store First Patternmaker Sample Maker/ Bridal Fitting $25/hr and Specialty Store following a must. Sales Help Wanted Runway Eveningwear-Bridal Mfr Fast growing company. Growing branded and Private Label & Assistant BUYER Ladies’ Apparel Co. seeks 1st Pattern E-mail resume to A Nose For Clothes, FL/GA retail chain, maker w/exp. in jackets, pants, skirts, Sample Cutter $52-60K Sportswear and Dress Co. seeks Sales- Runway Contemp Designer [email protected] person with contacts and 1 Sales Asst. seeks Buyer to work at Miami HQ. and tops in both woven & knit. Draping or fax 212-302-5184 Must have 5+ yrs. exp. as a multi-store knowledge req’d. Fax to: 212-768-1065 or [email protected] 212-947-3400 with minnimum of 2 years experience. Buyer of upscale contemp. women’s E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] fashions; travel to U.S. markets. Please SPEC TECH Contemporary Knitwear Fax resumes to: 305-253-8949 or E-mail Great opportunity! Great company! Designer/Producer w/office in Shanghai to: [email protected] Leading Intimate Apparel Mfg. seeks Sales / Admin. Asst. has beautiful collection ready to sell. exp’d & highly organized Spec Tech for Sales Position-Men’s Would like to start a new div. w/est’d. co. Est’d. East Side Carriage Trade Jeweler Fit Model/Admin. Asst. Ladies, Men’s & Kids products. Resp seeks organized person w/strong whole- and Ladies’ Footwear Please call Lou Nardi at: 646-248-1193 CACHE, seeks an in-house Fit Model / incl. daily communication w/ overseas E-mail: [email protected] Buyer’s Assistant sale / retail exp. Call Ta: 212-921-9452 x 15 A. Testoni luxury footwear brand Administrative Assistant to handle fittings office & factories. Runs fittings w/ the seeks professional individual for Mens El Corte Inglés New York, Inc., wholly & light paper work. Previous experience ability to translate changes necessary and Ladies footwear & accessories owned subsidiary of El Corte Ingles, S.A., preferred but not necessary. Req’d. to specifications. Must possess technical sales, 1-3 yrs footwear exp required. Spain, the largest Department Store in measurements are: MISSY: Size 8; knowledge, flat sketching and be com- Based in NYC, extensive travel, strong Spain is looking for a Buyer’s Assistant Height - 5’8"; Chest - 36"; Waist - 28"; puter literate. Strong follow-up and SALES EXECUTIVE communication & organizational skill for our New York Office. Candidate must Hip - 38½". Please forward resume to analytical skills, along w/ bra exp man- Great Opportunity!!! required. Salary plus benefits. have 2-3 years of experience in the Racula at: [email protected] or datory. Knowledge of spec/design pkgs Contact: [email protected] or Fax to: Fashion/Apparel industry with emphasis Est print/textile company seeks an contact: 646-366-6482 mandatory. Exp with Wal-Mart, JCP & exp’d motivated sales exec. must have 212-399-2172 on Apparel. Bilingual Spanish/English a Kmart a plus. Email your resume must. Computer skills req’d. Competitive existing contacts in the apparel industry . to: [email protected] or Fax Attn: Minimum of 5 yrs experience, salary Salary & Benefits. Please send resume R. Farrell (212) 842-4032. EOE to: [email protected] commensurate w/experience. E-mail resume and salary requirements to: SPEC TECHNICIAN/ [email protected] CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 Design TECH DESIGNER www.sanodesignservices.com Established Active Sportswear and Assist Tech Manager Outerwear Co. seeking an experienced Well established fast growing individual to evaluate sample develop- SALES EXECUTIVE Sweater/Knit Vertical Private Label ment through final production. Must High-profile designer eveningwear co. Producer seeks Asst. to Tech Manager. have fitting, grading, garment construc- looking for exp’d account executive. Store Mgr. & Sales Associate DENIMS TO SELL Must have strong organizational and tion, specing, overseas communication Must have active account list and estab- Wanted for high end Children’s Clothing Large Lots, Lots of Denim Fabric. comm skills, self motivated, can multi- skills and sewing knowledge. Team lished contacts in designer domestic and & Women’s Sleepwear boutique located task/function in fast paced environment, Leading brand management company oriented environment excellent overseas market. E-mail resume to: on the Upper East Side. Must be profes- Camo Available. Cheap Prices. open minded to learn new things. Must in Greenwich CT is looking to hire [email protected] 1.877.DENIM.TO.SELL compensation & benefits package. sional with great communication skills, be computer literate/Excel. 1-2 yrs creative talent to join its in-house Fax resume w/ salary requirements customer service oriented with team tech design preferred but not essen- marketing "dream team" to work on a to: 646-364-9750 work skills. Great opportunity to get tial. Ideal for person looking to variety of powerhouse brands. hands on experience in all aspects of run- further their career. Please fax or TECH DESIGNER ning a small business. E-mail resumes: e-mail resume to: 212-242-4418 / Art Director [email protected] Patterns/Samples/Production [email protected] Candidate must have strong design Major blouse importer seeks indiv to Full Service, Fine, Fast Work. and communication skills, be able to assist head mdse with design. Must Any Style work in a fast-paced environment, flat sketch, create tech pac. for 1st Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 sample, and communicate with orient. Design with experience working on fashion brands and/or luxury goods. Responsible Computer skills are necessary (PDM, Get Associate and Assistant for art direction and development of Illustrator, Photoshop). Salary based creative concepts for logo design, on exp. Fax resume: (212) 768-7973 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Designer packaging, advertising campaigns and connected promotional/event marketing collateral Technical Designer PRODUCTIONS Young ladies’ import. Must be innovative, as well as post production image re- have great color & trend sense. Good touching. Knitwear to industry All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. follow up, team player. Tech packs; Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Fast growing Missy Contemp Knitwear computer. Photoshop skills necessary. Co. seeks TD w/ 3+ yrs exp w/ both Please Fax or E-mail resumes to Tina at: Jr. Web Art Sweaters and Cut & Sew knits. 212-840-3078/[email protected] Dir/Graphic Designer Respon include creating first spec thru leaders Candidate must have strong web design to prod, full fitting w/ comments. Must PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Account Executive and programming skills, with an be detail oriented able to work fast- PLUGG, a leading Jrs./Girls’ Sportswear understanding of current web design paced environment. Excellent computer PRODUCTIONS Co. seeks Sales Rep w/min. 5 tears exp. trends. Must show initiative and have skills, emphasis on Photo-shop, Illust, Children’s Wear Full service shop to the trade. & est’d. mid-tier store (i.e. Kohl’s, JC good communication skills. 1-2 years Excel, Web PDM. Good written & verbal Exp’d. Sales Rep wanted for New Child- Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Penney, Sears...) contacts and positive experience working in the fashion or skills. Great atmosphere & benefits! ren’s Mod/Better Line Girls: 4-6X, 7-14. relationships. Salary based upon exp. luxury agency environment are a plus. Fax resume to: 212-221-1353 E-mail us at: [email protected] E-mail resume to: [email protected] Must be proficient in Illustrator, Photoshop, Flash & web based programs. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Technical Designer Asst. Print Production Missy apparel Co. seeking 5yrs+ expe- High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- rience in Technical Design. Both fully sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Search hundreds of positions in Manager fashion knits and woven. Excellent fashion, retail and beauty. Candidate must have strong organi- working atmosphere, 401K and medi- zational skills, be able to thrive in a cal ins. Bilingual/Chinese would be fast-paced environment, with a thorough helpful. Salary commesurate with exp. knowledge of Photoshop. 2-3 yrs exp in Please email resumes to: print and production process required, [email protected] as well as a thorough understanding of post production image retouching. TECH SPEC ASSIST Candidate will also be involved in pre- Great Opportunity! Leading Women’s production of major National advertising Active Wear Knit Co seeks organized campaign photo shoots. Spec Tech to assist with fittings, daily All salaries commensurate with communication with overseas fty, cre- PATTERNMAKER / TECH DESIGNER Proven Skin Care Product experience , excellent benefits.Please ate tech packs, generate fit comments, Very experienced; ladies sportswear / Seeking an Angel Investor. Please con- forward all resumes and/or portfolio must possess tech knowledge. dresses / denim & catalogue production tact Melody Appleton at (510)823-6072 samples to: [email protected] or Bilingual/Chinese a plus. Great co. & patterns / draping / table & computer. or [email protected] fax to 203.413.6563 pkg. Pls fax res & sal req.212-354-3051 NY Cell: 646-217-2590 Home: 212-689-1840 STEAL the SHOW

COLLECTIONS { SEASON }

FEBRUARY 1 - MARCH 4 EICHNER, GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI NEW YORK | LONDON | MILAN | PARIS PHOTOS BY: PASHA ANTONOV, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CENTENO, TALAYA CHINSEE, STEVE ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY:

WWDStyle Starts Here™ For more information on WWD’s Collections Season advertising opportunities, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212-630-4737.