Ciao, Bello Tout Paris Caught the Wave As Valentino Bid an Emotional Farewell to a Stellar Haute Couture Career That Began 45 Years Ago in His Native Italy
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INTERVIEW’S SISCHY, BRANT RESIGN/3 MACLAINE DOES COCO/20 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • January 24, 2008 • $2.00 Sportswear Ciao, Bello Tout Paris caught the wave as Valentino bid an emotional farewell to a stellar haute couture career that began 45 years ago in his native Italy. His spring collection of 75 looks, shown to 900 guests, addressed the past and present in a masterful melding of the two. Styles ranged from simple suits and jackets in vibrant colors to romantic evening looks and a fi nale of silk column dresses in, naturally, his signature red. For more on the show, see pages 6 and 7; more on the couture, pages 8 and 9. A Growing Empire: L’Oréal Agrees to Buy YSL Beauté for $1.68B By Jennifer Weil billion at current exchange, for in coming weeks, L’Oréal would PARIS — YSL Beauté has a new YSL Beauté Holding, including obtain an exclusive and very long- owner in view, and it’s none other its Roger & Gallet subsidiary. term worldwide license for the use than L’Oréal. YSL Beauté is part of the PPR of the YSL and Boucheron brands The French beauty giant on subsidiary Gucci Group. in the fragrance and cosmetics Wednesday proposed to pay Once the agreement is categories, under market PPR 1.15 billion euros, or $1.68 completed, which is expected See L’Oréal, Page 22 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear ™ A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based FASHION Valentino bid farewell to the couture with a beautiful show, and the season on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 6 continued with collections from Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy and Elie Saab. SPECIALTY DELIVERIES GENERAL Petite, Plus, Long Denim Grab Bigger Market Share L’Oréal has entered into exclusive negotiations with PPR on a strategic 1 deal for YSL Beauté, the PPR-owned Gucci Group’s beauty division. Jimmy Choo founder and president Tamara Mellon fi led a $10 million lawsuit If the average woman begrudges shopping for ranks. “Other labels like James Jeans and PPD will 3 Wednesday against her mother, Ann Yeardye, for breach of contract. jeans, imagine what it was like for those in need of a be soon entering the market with exclusive, select EYE: The stars swirled around Park City and Deer Valley, Utah, like specialty size, like petite, plus or long lengths. styles for stores like Nordstrom and Saks.” 4 snowfl akes during this year’s Sundance Film Festival. “I used to think I’d never wear jeans again,” says The petite market is also ripe for growth. Why? Denise, 43. At 4-feet, 9-inches tall, she has always Unlike a suit or special occasion dress, jeans – even LETTERS: San Francisco is buzzing with new real estate development, been a petite. But after having premium denim – are considered 12 all while maintaining its green — and fashionable — profi le. three children, she became a casual wear. And most women BEAT: With tough competition and a shift in teen spending, the junior plus-size, too. Now she shops cannot justify the time and expense 17 sportswear category continues to face major headaches. the plus-sized chains. “They to have them hemmed. Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................23 have jeans that fit — and they That’s why “petite denim is huge don’t look like ‘grandma’ pants, for retailers that carry it, especially To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. either. No more feeling bad that specialty stores like Banana Republic [email protected], using the individual’s name. I'm not a tall, skinny model.” or Ann Taylor,” Sokolove says. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT In the U.S., 65 million women “Most people do not want to pay to ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, NO. 17. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with age 20 and older – nearly 62% of tailor the garments. They want it ‘as one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and adult women — are overweight is’ off the rack.” November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services or obese, according to the J. Jill’s Thompson adds that “it’s provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Centers for Disease Control and a fallacy to think the only difference Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Prevention. And even though between misses and petite sizes is Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. sizes vary in women’s apparel, length.” Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 “There are a host of fit POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North 25% of women say their Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR current pant size is 12-14, and specifications that are taken into BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289- nearly 23% are 15+, according account to ensure a balanced fit – 0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production to Cotton Incorporated's Lifestyle “Women of all shapes and front rise, back rise, where the knee correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, MonitorTM survey of consumers. sizes want the same thing – a hits,” Thompson says. “Sometimes please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list Even if a woman isn’t a plus size, if selection of fashionable styles subtle style adjustments are available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. she’s short or long of leg, traditional designed to fit them” necessary – like the size and position If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, denim outlets can be unkind, — Betsy Thompson, of back pocket, for example. If you OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, forcing her to hem pants that J. Jill shorten a bootleg, flare or wide BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR puddle by eight inches or more, or leg jeans, you essentially cut off a CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR inadvertently sport a modified Thom Browne look. chunk of the intended design.” DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Cindy is 6-feet, 1-inch, and used to have a hard Another point to remember about specialty- A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. time finding “long” jeans that were long enough. sized customers is that just because they are shorter Luckily, though, she’s finding more mainstream or bigger than average women does not mean retailers, like J. Jill, that can fit her frame. they’ll accept less fashionable apparel. “Women of all shapes and sizes want the same Sokolove says the designers’ challenge is to re- In Brief thing – a selection of fashionable styles designed work a popular look for the different body types. to fit them,” says “It can be ● PACSUN CUTS UNIT PRESIDENT: Pacific Sunwear of Betsy Thompson, challenging to fit a California said Wednesday in a regulatory fi ling that it is elimi- spokesperson. She says Reason Brand is Favorite Brand of Jeans skinny jean to a plus nating the position of president at its D.e.m.o. subsidiary, which J. Jill’s Authentic Fit size, or a wide leg on the skate- and surf-inspired apparel chain is in the process of and Tried & True Fit Fit/Cut/Length 78% petite, so the trends shuttering. The Securities and Exchange Commission fi ling said jeans have wide appeal. Quality/Durability 13% must be adapted Lou Ann Bett will leave the company on March 15. The company Both are available in a Comfort 18% and manipulated,” previously said it will close the remaining 154 D.e.m.o. stores as part of its restructuring process. Last May it closed 74 units full spectrum of sizes Style/Design 8% she says. “Maybe it Price/Value 6% of the underperforming urban-inspired division. The closing of – misses 2-20, petite becomes a straight the stores is expected to be completed this May. The fi ling also Experience with Brand/Grew Up Wearing 3% 0-18, tall 4-20 and leg instead of a skinny said Bett will be entitled to receive severance benefi ts under the woman’s 14W-28W.