LONDON HE ADING ALL ABOUT WEST ACCESSORIES INSPIRATIONS NATALIE RATABESI WHAT DESIGNERS SAY ABOUT JOINS VINCE IN LONDON MEN’S SAY L.A. AS CREATIVE THEIR FALL COLLECTIONS FOR ACCESSORY SALES ARE BOOMING, DIRECTOR AFTER AND THEY’RE FOCUSING ON THE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN. EXITING HER POST CATEGORY MORE THAN EVER. MW2 AND MW3 AT PHILOSOPHY IN PAGE MW1 MILAN. PAGE 2

THE ‘MICKEY PREMIUM’ J. Crew’s Challenge: What’s It Worth?

By EVAN CLARK

WHAT MIGHT BE J. CREW GROUP’S greatest asset — the exacting and merchandising-infused leadership of Millard “Mickey” Drexler — has become something of a complication for the company’s private equity owners as they consider selling the retailer. THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Drexler, the driving force behind Gap Inc.’s suc- WWD cess in the Nineties, is the rare executive who’s seen as having the magic touch by both Wall Street and the fashion crowd. His hands-on approach and ability to pick product helped put J. Crew back on the map when he took the helm as chief executive offi cer and chairman in 2003. And he will be a very diffi cult man to replace when he decides to step down. Especially now that the company is experiencing a period of slower growth. Late Wednesday, J. Crew said refi nancing costs pushed it to a loss in the fi rst quarter, while adjusted earnings fell and comparable company sales declined 2 percent (after 5 percent growth a year earlier). It was J. Crew’s promise under Drexler that attract- ed deep-pocketed investors TPG and Leonard Green Spot & Partners, who teamed up with the ceo to take the retailer private in 2011 for $3 billion — a price that refl ected what might be called a “Mickey Premium.” They bought not only the company, but Drexler’s stew- 2015 ardship and aura. Drexler, 69, got a bigger piece of the action as his stake in the business grew to an estimat- ed 20 percent, according to sources. On RESORT “Is Mickey Drexler to J. Crew what was A simple palette of to Apple?” asked one retail observer, noting the answer was a defi nite, “yes.” “What Mickey Drexler is, is vision.” navys and whites, But how much is that vision worth when Drexler might punctuated with gold, only remain in his role for a few more years after a sale? grounded Ralph Lauren’s The Japanese parent of Uniqlo, Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., had been in early talks to buy J. Crew, but re- resort collection in elegant modernity. He portedly balked at the $5 billion price tag proposed worked pretty graphics via polka dots, by TPG and Leonard Green. And Fast is one of only a stripes and colorblocking on elevated SEE PAGE 8 fabrics such as this silk turtleneck paired with crepe de chine pants. For more on resort, see pages 4 and 5. Bangladesh, Cambodia Imports Hit by Unrest

By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — Cambodia and Bangladesh are beginning to feel the bite from the upheavals taking place in their apparel-manufacturing industries. On Wednesday, U.S. Labor Department offi cials held a conference call with fashion industry trade groups about instability in Cambodia’s garment in- dustry, according to industry sources. At the same time, the Commerce Department released its month- ly trade report, showing that apparel imports from Cambodia and Bangladesh tumbled in April. The heightened scrutiny follows months of protests and strikes by Cambodian garment workers and union leaders who have been calling for an increase in the country’s minimum wage to $160 a month from the current rate of $100 a month. A nationwide strike in Cambodia turned deadly on Jan. 3, when Cambodian security forces opened fi re on thousands of workers, leaving fi ve dead and injur- ing more than 40 people. Nate Herman, vice president of internation- al trade at the American Apparel & Footwear Association, said Obama administration offi cials have been in conversations with the Cambodian govern- ment to address the issues. “A lot of the focus has been on labor laws in Cambodia and the treatment of unions…and moving industrial rela- tions forward to try to improve labor laws,” Herman said. A series of meetings in Cambodia last week and a PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO court’s decision to convict — then free — 23 people SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 WWD.COM PVH’s Q1 Shy of Wall Street’s Estimates THE BRIEFING BOX sales to $1.87 billion from $1.82 gic investments. IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG billion. The balance of revenues According to the company, was from royalty income and ad- revenue in the Calvin Klein busi- NEW YORK — Shares of PVH vertising and other income. ness rose 9 percent to $665 mil- Corp. slipped in after-hours trad- Wall Street analysts on aver- lion from $608 million. On an Olivia Palermo at ing Wednesday following the age were expecting adjusted adjusted basis, excluding $30 mil- the CFDA Fashion firm’s posting of first-quarter re- earnings per share at $1.49 on lion in sales returns, revenues a Awards. For more sults that were just shy of Wall revenues of $1.98 billion. year ago for the Calvin Klein celebrity fashion, Street’s consensus estimates. Emanuel Chirico, chairman business would have been $638 see WWD.com. The shares inched up 0.3 and chief executive officer, said, million. In the Tommy Hilfiger percent Wednesday to close “We are pleased with our first- business, revenues increased at $130.68 in Big Board trad- quarter results, which were in 6 percent to $862 million from ing, but then fell 6.6 percent in line with our expectations.…” $811 million. The increases were early after-market trading on the He noted that the global mac- partially offset by a revenue de- Nasdaq to $122. roeconomic challenges in the cline of 2 percent in the firm’s For the three months ended retail environment from the first Heritage Brands business, ex- May 4, the company posted $35.3 quarter have continued into the cluding the $47 million of 2013 million in net income, or 42 cents second three-month period, and Bass revenue. a diluted share, against a $10.3 said, “[W]e believe our North For the year, the company’s million net loss, or 13 cents, a American businesses will experi- EPS guidance is in the range IMAGESMAX/GC NCP/STAR year ago. Excluding certain ad- ence margin pressure in the sec- of $7.30 to $7.40 on a non-GAAP justments, such as the integra- ond quarter and we have lowered basis, reflecting a $10 million in- BY PHOTO tion of The Warnaco Group Inc. our full-year earnings per share crease in Calvin Klein advertis- and related restructuring charg- guidance to reflect this. We will ing expense over the prior year. es, plus the costs incurred re- continue to make the previously Revenue is estimated to grow 5 J. Crew Group Inc.’s owners face a Millard “Mickey” Drexler lated to the sale of the G.H. Bass planned strategic investments, percent to $8.5 billion, excluding conundrum as they consider cashing out. PAGE 1 business, among others, net in- particularly in the acquired $176 million in revenues from the come was $122.1 million or $1.47 Calvin Klein businesses, in order Bass business. Cambodia and Bangladesh are feeling the bite from the a diluted share, versus $155.6 to unlock the full global potential For the second quarter, EPS is upheavals in their apparel manufacturing industries. PAGE 1 million, or $1.91, a year ago. of the Calvin Klein businesses expected in the range of $1.40 to Total revenues for the quarter over the long term.” $1.45 on a non-GAAP basis, with PVH Corp. on Wednesday posted first-quarter results that rose 2.8 percent to $1.96 billion Chirico explained that the revenues forecasted at $2 billion, were just shy of Wall Street’s consensus estimates. PAGE 2 from $1.91 billion, which includ- first half of fiscal year 2015 will excluding $62 million related to ed a 2.7 percent increase in net be pressured by the firm’s strate- the Bass business. Natalie Ratabesi has been tapped as creative director of women’s design at Vince. PAGE 2

Vince Names Ratabesi Creative Director Joe Fresh has opened its first unit in Asia — a two-level store in the Myeongdong shopping district in Seoul. PAGE 6 to have someone who can be full-time in L.A. and By LISA LOCKWOOD provide leadership to the women’s design teams Spanish footwear firm Camper has named Romain Kremer its under the continuing guidance of Karin.” first creative director. PAGE 6 NATALIE RATABESI, who stepped down as cre- Reached for comment in Milan, Ratabesi said ative director of Philosophy last month, has been she made the decision to take the Vince position reprised its Paris-Dallas Metiers d’Art runway show in tapped as creative director of women’s design at after having several meetings with Gregersen and Tokyo, building an expansive Texas saloon-style set. PAGE 6 Vince, the contemporary sportswear firm. Granoff. “I just loved the excitement they had when She begins June 16 and will relocate from Milan they talked about this — their growth and New Balance has alleged that Karl Lagerfeld has stepped too to Vince’s design studio in Los Angeles. how they want to take it to another level,” she said. close to one of its footwear designs. PAGE 7 Ratabesi, 35, will have creative direction over She said she was attracted to the opportunity to re- all women’s categories including ready-to-wear turn to a large, established brand investing so much ’s risqué style, honored with a CFDA Fashion Icon and accessories. Vince men’s wear will continue to in growth. Vince, which generated $288.2 million in award Monday night, is causing waves in Britain. PAGE 7 be led by Nicole Wiesmann, vice president of men’s net sales in fiscal 2013, went public last November. design, who joined the company in September. Both Ratabesi said her taste level and the way she likes New Jersey Gov. Chris Christie was one of four men who were roles are overseen by Karin Gregersen, president women to dress is very similar to the Vince aesthetic. singled out as Fathers of the Year Wednesday. PAGE 8 and chief creative officer, who remains responsible “There’s something about being understated, and for all of Vince’s creative functions including de- something not too over the top. I just love women to Accessories frenzy is sweeping London, with designers and sign, merchandising and marketing, as well as the look beautiful, chic, timeless, sophisticated and easy. PAGE MW1 brand’s wholesale business. If you feel comfortable in your clothes, you’re more of all stripes launching new collections. Ratabesi’s initial input will be seen in the wom- confident as a woman,” she said. en’s pre-fall 2015 season. Thinking of herself as a gypsy, A clutch of new stores has opened, or undergone refurbishment, “[Natalie] has a very modern sen- Ratabesi said she’s looking forward in London on Savile Row and beyond. PAGE MW4 sibility, which is very close to the to living in L.A. “I left home at 17. I Vince DNA and core value,” said lived four years in London, almost Isaia, with a new strategic partnership agreement with ImagineX Gregersen. “She really has a very four in Paris, I moved to New York Group, is planning to bolster its presence in Asia. PAGE MW4 sophisticated design sensibility. As City in January 2004 until September we increase and elevate our fash- 2012, and in that time I spent a year ON WWD.COM ion point of view, she’s such a criti- in Rome, and from September 2012 cal part of this process for us,” said until now in Milan. Right now I feel CELEBRITY FASHION: Fringe took a chic turn this week Gregersen. She described Ratabesi’s there’s a new energy in L.A. A lot of among the celebrity contingent. For more, see WWD.com. designs as “effortless.” my friends are moving there, a lot of “She creates silhouettes that are stylists that I know,” said Ratabesi, modern, understated and cool and who will relocate with her husband understands our neutral, rich color and one-year-old daughter. FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA palette....I think she’ll really leverage Ratabesi was tapped as creative @ WWD.com/social our brand DNA,” said Gregersen. director of Philosophy di Alberta Prior to becoming creative director Natalie Ratabesi Ferretti in October 2012, and the de- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. of Philosophy in October 2012, Ratabesi signer’s first collection for the brand WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. held key design roles at houses includ- bowed for the fall 2013 season. This COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ing Christian Dior under John Galliano, Oscar de la was the first time Alberta Ferretti had delegated VOLUME 207, NO. 113. THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and Renta, Gucci and Ralph Lauren, where she did two the direction of the Philosophy brand entirely to two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine tours and became senior creative director. She gradu- another designer, with the intention to further Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, ated with a fashion degree from Central Saint Martins develop the brand in an independent way and Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, College of Art and Design in London in 2000. differentiate it from the signature brand. In May, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Last October, Doo-Ri Chung, Vince’s creative Marcello Tassinari, managing director and chief Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, director, resigned from her position to return to financial officer of Aeffe SpA, the parent firm, said Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. New York. She had been in the role since January that Philosophy’s performance “was negative com- Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address 2013 and worked on the fall, holiday and spring pared to the other brands.” Without elaborating, changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. 2014 Vince collections. After Chung’s resignation, he said the company was “taking action” to fine- If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with Gregersen added the role of chief creative officer. tune and improve the brand’s development. “We your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be Jill Granoff, chairman and chief executive offi- hired Natalie Ratabesi to raise the positioning of mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request cer of Vince, stressed the importance of the wom- the brand and to have its own autonomy. There are to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse en’s business, which accounts for 85 percent of changes taking place,” he said. permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. the company’s sales. “As we continue to become a On Monday, WWD reported that Ratabesi was Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we global lifestyle brand, we felt it was really impor- replaced at Philosophy by an in-house team which believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR tant to have a women’s creative director who can will present in September. A market source said DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED unify all the women’s categories, and that includes Aeffe probably gave Ratabesi contradictory guide- TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, both ready-to-wear and accessories, under a singu- lines and didn’t really let her do her own thing, and UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND lar vision. Her appointment really fulfills the needs she wasn’t that happy in Milan. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. The Industry Standard

Providing digital solutions and access to the world’s largest network of brands and retailers.

www.jooraccess.com 4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014

Ralph Lauren Proenza Nicole Resort 2015 Schouler Miller Ralph Lauren: “Simplicity,” “minimal” and “workmanship” were words Ralph Lauren used during a preview of his resort collection. The result was a study in elegant modernity, Ralph style. If simple in concept, the detail in these clothes added depth, especially when it came to the designer’s elevated fabric play. “It’s got to live up to this place,” Lauren said, sitting in the luxe environs of his women’s Madison Avenue flagship where the runway show was held. A navy silk sweater with a white ruffle organza was shown over a white pencil skirt with navy leather polka dots seamed into the crepe fabric. An off-white leather coat, meanwhile, was bonded with stripes of navy organza. Worn over a navy silk top and white silk pants, the vibe was causal yet refined. At times the collection’s pretty graphics veered “Deauville,” though without the sartorial clichés of the French resort — a cape striped with navy and white ostrich feathers drove home that point. As for the accessories, there was gold, and lots of it, from the handbags and carryons to bold platform sandals, all punctuating Lauren’s brand of resort chic.

Proenza Schouler: The blitz of graphic patterns and brash colors of Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s fall collection reverberated through resort but at a lower decibel. As Hernandez pointed out, the silhouettes in the pre-collections tend to be more “democratic,” thus sporty draped tanks and the designers’ version of sweatpants in knit. He noted Ellsworth Kelly’s influence on some of the colorblocking, and, having just launched swimwear, Hernandez called the lineup “beachy and athletic,” perhaps more in theory than in practice. This was not a casual collection. Fabrics, such as with a hand-beaded tunic and wrap dress in an interesting lasered leather technique, were highly developed. And for the Proenza career woman, there were silk georgette blouses and drop-waist pleated skirts in prints inspired by Clyfford Still paintings.

Balenciaga: It was refreshing to see more of Alexander Wang in his Balenciaga resort collection, not only because, for the first time Thakoon Tibi Nanette Josie since arriving at the house, he was present Lepore Natori for the pre-collection runway show, but also aesthetically in the clothes. The lineup took inspiration from sailing — sails, ropes, braiding, raincoats and rubber boots — which often manifests as preppy, but not on Wang’s watch. His maritime were slicked in a combination of French chic and minimal, tomboy street. There was a little nautical navy, but mostly black: a beautiful A-line black leather coat bonded to navy jersey; a strapless dress that was ivory canvas at the top and black duchesse satin on the bottom; a strapless black crepe romper with a contrast pink silk band around the bust; black calfskin galoshes with colorful python soles. After the show, Wang said he wanted to bring a “youthful essence” to the line, breaking with the traditional Balenciaga symmetry and architecture by cutting away from the body and introducing a fluidity with scarf details, such as silk shirts with streaming, asymmetric . Still anchored in Balenciaga purity, the collection caught a fresh breeze.

Monique Lhuillier: Looking to architecture and stark black-and-white contrast, Monique Lhuillier showed a collection that she referred to as “a cross between sportswear and special occasion.” T-shirts, crop tops and tanks were done in and lace and paired with voluminous skirts and shorts. The designer offered a graphic take on dresses, as well — a strapless high-low pleated silk-crepe version that could easily go from day to night was a standout. Meanwhile, evening delivered a pop of color in sophisticated tea- length color-blocked frocks.

Nicole Miller: Few places say “resort” better than Hawaii. Appropriately, Nicole Miller looked at Sixties Hawaiian shirts for her inspiration this season, though this was far from a riff on “Magnum, P.I.” garb. Instead, Miller worked some abstract takes on the tropical patterns with prints on cool shapes like a Neoprene top with a silk saronglike skirt. A surfer vibe added to the look via the fabrics and caplike sleeves, while a sexy detail came via cutouts on the side of body- con dresses and up the back of a camp shirt.

w05a004(5)a;11.indd 1 6/4/14 7:47 PM 06042014195011 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 5 WWD.COM Anna Sui: For resort, Anna Sui reinterpreted some of Monique Anna Sui 3.1 Phillip Lim her favorite motifs, from guitars to birds and cats. She Lhuillier worked the latter with particular charm on a cotton sweater with a cute feline motif, the same repeated on a matching bamboo miniskirt. Sui also has a fondness for Art Deco and Art Nouveau, so she offered plenty of cool looks inspired by the two eras, including gold brocade jackets and jumpsuits, and several sweet dresses in embroidered organza and gold fil coupé treatments.

3.1 Phillip Lim: A child of the Seventies, Phillip Lim offered a subtle nod to the decade with hints of safari, old-school athleticism and unusual color pairings. The resulting resort collection was a bit of a departure for the designer and offered plenty of interesting options. While he has focused on more oversize shapes as of late, here dresses were closer to the body with an A-line skirt, most notably versions in a digitized snake print and one with a wavy that recalled Seventies- friendly rickrack. Lim also offered his nostalgic version of a suit — a safari blazer and culottes worn with a Cuban-heeled shoe.

Thakoon: The paper cutouts of Henri Matisse’s later period moved Thakoon Panichgul toward something “joyful but organic and artisanal” for resort. He filtered those ideas into prints — florals large and small — and rich, textured fabrics. Prime examples were a raw silk coat in a large-scale flower print and a crafty take on classic marine stripes, i.e., a horizontally striped shirt with lace over a vertical-striped knit skirt.

Tibi: On a fateful subway ride, designer Amy Smilovic spied a tattooed stranger sporting sailor stripes and the combination inspired her resort collection for Tibi. The pattern came front and center on her full midi skirts, a pair of wide-leg culottes and as an accent on the sleeve of a blazer. Ropes, knots and postcard stamps made for dainty prints on easy-to-wear silk separates, and a toggled, chunky knit hoodie maintained the subtle nautical theme.

Nanette Lepore: What would a global gypsy wear? Nanette Lepore offered an answer with her colorful, eclectic collection. There was beaded on the front of a silk tank and on the cuffs of a blazer, and subtle ethnic prints such as a distressed Indian floral on a pretty silk camisole and wide-leg pants. Lepore also played with layering, showing several all- in-one dresses — a cropped tank top over a sheath, for one, and a style with contrast fabric peeping out from Adeam Rena Lange BCBG Max Azria the hem for another, both properly gypsy’d up in a tile pattern brocade.

Josie Natori: Josie Natori found a challenge in resort. “For clothes that look and feel just right for this long- selling season — from October to May — fabrics are so important. Yo u can’t go from the richness of fall into limp clothes,” said the designer, who favored double- faced cotton, bonded jerseys and Neoprene to give body to her looks. She showed suits and sporty separates — “toppers,” which Natori insisted “are a must for the season” — with lean, slightly cropped pants and sleeveless sheaths, and hip-length jackets with short, flippy skirts. All were in black and white, sometimes mixed but often monotone with an occasional pop of chartreuse. Natori met that resort-season challenge with a chic, refined collection.

Adeam: Hanako Maeda’s drawing point for her Adeam resort collection came from the Japanese aesthetic of Wabi-Sabi, which the designer summarized as “perfection and symmetry versus irregularity.” Working that concept of conflict, she paired a minimalist silver foil top with flowy printed chiffon culottes, while a structured black skirt featured pleated chiffon side panels.

BCBG Max Azria: Recently anointed the Honorary NE Cultural Ambassador of Tunisia, Max Azria’s roots be-

ACCO came the foundation for his and Lubov Azria’s resort NN IA

collection. The coastal town of Hammamet offered

AS inspiration for everything from the lushly printed silk M

HO caftans to the French terry fabric sewn in strips to cre- T D

N ate a slim dress. Tunics were a key item, shown embroi- dered and embellished as both tops and dresses. EN A The duo still didn’t abandon the line’s more modern CKS RI

E styles, offering a sizeable selection of smart separates

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C Rena Lange: The design team of Munich-based Rena E

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE G

R Lange looked to François Morellet, Kazimir Malevich O and James Turrell this resort. The lineup reflected GE , WWD.com/ O the artists’ graphic, contemporary aesthetics, runway. especially the dresses — a wool and silk cap-sleeve AQUIN

N dress featuring an abstract black-and-white floral OH

J pattern (think: Morellet) and a white silk shift with panel layers in red and pink (Turrell). Though arty in inspiration, the collection maintained the label’s

PHOTOS BY commercial appeal.

w05a004(5)a;11.indd 2 6/4/14 7:48 PM 06042014195014 6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 Joe Fresh Embarks on Global Push With South Korea Opening

trafficked Myeongdong shopping Fresh, on Wednesday. Mimran a good fit for the Joe Fresh mod- By DAVID MOIN district in the heart of Seoul — just returned from South Korea, erate price point. Fifty percent the brand’s first unit in Asia. where last weekend the com- of the footfall is tourism from WITH JOE FRESH, what’s good “There’s exactly the same as- pany staged a fashion show at the Asian market, Grauso said, for North America is good for sortment as you would see in Seoul’s Beyond Museum and adding, “It’s very dense traffic the rest of the world. SoHo [in Manhattan],” said Joe opened the store. and really important for us that That’s the message from the Mimran, president of Joseph There was some tweaking in- we got into the neighborhood.” new 4,000-square-foot, two-level Mimran & Associates and found- volved, considering the size of Joe Fresh silks, shorts, maxis, Joe Fresh store in the heavily er and creative director of Joe the store, which is about 3,000 midis and soft pants were get- square feet smaller than typi- ting “really good traction,” cal Joe Fresh units, and con- though Mimran added, “The FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE sidering the target population. good sellers here are the good “There is less space to do vi- sellers there, but it’s way too WWD.com/ sual presentation, so it’s more early to make any kinds of de- retail-news. about product, and there’s less terminations and adjustments.” visual concentration,” said Regarding the international Mario Grauso, chief operating expansion strategy, “We are officer of Joe Fresh. “We also being very aggressive about the broadened the size assortment rollout,” Grauso said. “We will so there is more extra-extra open nine more stores in Korea smalls than you would see in this year and have a total of 35 our other stores. Otherwise, it stores in Korea in the four is really similar to SoHo.” years, which is what we contrac- The Seoul opening marked tually agreed to. Korea is very an initial step in expanding much a shopping hub for Asia. Joe Fresh beyond its North Korea became a priority for us.” American boundaries. Earlier As reported, Joe Fresh’s Joe Mimran with South Korean this year, Joe Fresh an- South Korea partner is Origin actress Clara Lee. nounced three separate part- & Co. Ltd., based in Seoul. It’s nership agreements to swiftly also partnered with Fawaz enter the Middle East, North A. Alhokair & Co., based in the U.S., as well as shops inside Africa, Europe and South Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, and the Loblaws and J.C. Penney. Korea, representing a total of Dubai-based Retail Arabia Aside from the three agree- The Joe Fresh store in Seoul is akin to 24 countries. International. Loblaw Cos. Ltd. ments announced, “We are those in North America: white, clean and Where Joe Fresh has situat- is the parent company of Joe working on a few more deals spare so the colorful designs stand out. ed in Seoul, said Grauso, has “a Fresh, which operates free- that you could hear about in the Fifth Avenue sensibility” and is standing stores in Canada and coming weeks,” Grauso said. Chanel Brings Runway Show to Tokyo Camper Taps Kremer In keeping with Chanel’s ex- As Creative Director By AMANDA KAISER clusive image, the brand is not plotting major retail expansion in TOKYO — Chanel reprised its terms of new stores. Pavlovsky said By MILES SOCHA Paris-Dallas Metiers d’Art runway the brand does not have plans to show here on Wednesday, build- increase its store count in major PARIS — Camper has named Romain ing an expansive Texas saloon- Asian markets where it already Kremer its first creative director, WWD style set in a new skyscraper and has a retail network. Instead, the has learned. flying over Jerry Hall and Alice company is focusing on improving The Frenchman has been associated Dellal as VIP guests. customer service at existing stores, with the Spanish footwear firm since The house staged two shows and differentiating its stores to 2009, creating a capsule each season for on Wednesday afternoon and eve- offer unique experiences at each its Camper Together designer collabora- ning, inviting top clients and local location, he explained. tions. He has consulted on its main col- fashion editors in a bid to tap Reflecting that strategy, Collasse lection since 2013. into the brand’s “booming” busi- said Chanel has trimmed its retail The first complete collection under ness in Japan, according to Bruno network in Japan over the past Kremer is to arrive in Camper stores Pavlovsky, president of fashion few years to 34 stores from about in September in tandem with a new ad- at Chanel. 40. But Pavlovsky was quick to vertising campaign directed and photo- “Japan has always been a key point out that the brand has seen graphed by him. market for Chanel…our custom- its sales increase steadily over the Hailing from the south of France, ers are still very loyal [to] the same period. Kremer, 32, studied fashion at the Duperré brand,” he said, adding that the Chanel staged its two shows on School of Applied Arts in Paris and pre- collection of heavily embellished the fifth floor of the Toranomon sented his first men’s wear collection in and fringed Western wear will hit Hills complex, a new multipurpose 2005 at the International Fashion and stores in a few weeks. skyscraper located near Tokyo’s Photography Richard Collasse, president Shimbashi business district. The Festival of of Chanel Japan, said the brand’s building, which will open to the Hyères, where collections of fashion, accesso- public next week, will house of- he won a ries and cosmetics are resonating fices, residences, restaurants and Special Award with Japanese consumers, who The Chanel an Andaz Hotel. for Creativity. are exhibiting a sense of optimism runway show. Chanel creative director Karl He started about the country’s economy. Citing Lagerfeld did not make the trip to showing his the lead up to the 2020 Summer Tokyo but his homage to the West men’s label on Olympics in Tokyo and the rebuild- Jerry Hall and won over Texas-born Hall, who oc- the Paris run- ing efforts taking place in north- Alice Dellal cupied a front-row leather couch way in 2006, eastern Japan, where the 2011 with Dellal. Hall said she is stick- and was tapped tsunami struck, Collasse said he ing with the theme when it comes Romain by Mugler as thinks the positive business trend to her free time in the city. Kremer head designer will continue. “I plan on doing a bit of shop- of men’s wear “Last year was one of the best ping. I’m trying get some of this in 2011, where years we’ve ever had at Chanel in cowboy-look stuff,” she said. he remained for two years under then-cre- Japan and this year is probably The former said she has ative director Nicola Formichetti. going to be even better,” Collasse several projects in the pipeline, Miguel Fluxá, Camper’s chief execu- said, adding that the country’s including an upcoming role as the tive officer, said that Kremer’s “talent, sales tax hike in April — from 5 to wicked queen in a pantomime of unique vision and understanding of the 8 percent — did not hurt business. YUKIE MIYAZAKI the “Snow White and the Seven brand” would help the company “step to “We were a bit worried after the Dwarfs” at London’s Richmond the next level.” consumer tax increase in April that Theatre. She said she is gearing Based in Mallorca, Camper operates our most expensive product, the PHOTOS BY up to do an independent film in almost 400 stores in some 50 countries, ready-to-wear, would suffer a little bit Elsewhere in the region, Pavlovsky London called “The Forgotten Man.” selling more than four million pairs of because you know our prices are pretty said the brand is not feeling the effects Hall is also preparing to perform shoes a year. high. Actually we had a very positive in- of the luxury goods market slowdown as a couple of songs at the Glastonbury In tandem with the first collection crease in April because the collection is it’s still a relatively small player with Festival later this month with French designed by Kremer, Camper plans to wonderful,” Collasse said. selective distribution. Chanel has 10 actress Jeanne Marine. designate nine of its key metropolitan Neither executive disclosed sales fig- stores in Mainland China, nine in Hong “I’ve written the words. She’s written locations Lab stores with an exclusive ures for the brand. Kong and two in Macau. the ,” she said. selection of products. WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 7 WWD.COM

across all media in the U.K. — ruled that two ads on American Apparel’s FASHION SCOOPS MEMO PAD Web site were “gratuitous,” taking issue with images such as one that showed a TOO MUCH OF A ROGUE: Rihanna’s risqué model reclining on a bed wearing only NEW BALANCE SUES KARL: New Balance During cocktails, Wang said, “He style, honored with a CFDA Fashion a turtleneck sweater. It concluded that is putting its foot down in court, was a seminal artist and fashion was Icon award Monday night, is causing the ads “must not appear again in their alleging that Karl Lagerfeld has stepped only one of his outlets. The incredible waves in Britain. The U.K.’s Advertising current form.” In 2011, the ASA banned too close to one of its footwear designs. thing about him was he was also an Standards Authority issued a ruling a print ad for ’ Oh, Lola A New Balance spokeswoman said activist. He was someone who brought that a poster campaign for Rihanna’s fragrance in the U.K., which featured Wednesday that a lawsuit had been a modernity and reality to his work fragrance Rogue — in which she poses actress Dakota Fanning shot by , filed “against Karl Lagerfeld to protect that exists today. For anyone who is a with her arms crossed over her chest, as it considered the ad “could be seen to our intellectual property rights related modern designer or who is influenced wearing only underwear and high heels sexualize a child,” arguing that the then to our iconic Lifestyle footwear by the arts as am I, I feel very honored — was “provocative” and “sexually 17-year-old Fanning “appeared to be designs. Although we cannot comment to be honored by this foundation.” suggestive.” It ruled that the ad should under the age of 16.” Beyoncé came under on the specifics of the case, we believe Karlie Kloss, Chrissy Teigen, Federica now only appear with placement fire in 2010 for an ad for her fragrance it is vital to actively and vigorously Marchionni, Soledad O’Brien and Huma restrictions, to reduce the possibility of it Heat, which the ASA ruled could only defend our brand.” The designer’s Abedin helped up the fashion quota. being seen by children. be broadcast in the U.K. after 7:30 company had not responded to a The event raised more than $1 million Parlux Ltd., which partners with p.m., after it ruled the commercial was request for comment at press time. for the foundation. Rihanna on her fragrances, had argued “sexually suggestive.” — NINA JONES — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Lucas, who followed his that the ad depicted Rihanna “in a position FOR MORE wife’s lead, opted not to talk of power,” and said that it was consistent DADICH’S LATEST DESIGN: Wired editor in STELLA’S NEW YORK SCHEDULE: SCOOPS, SEE about anything work-related. with advertising for Rihanna’s previous chief Scott Dadich has found yet another Stella McCartney is hitting “I’m raising my daughter — fragrance launches and “reflected the way to fete the intersection between several birds with one stone WWD.com. she’s nine months old. She’s advertising norms of the design and culture. The today, maximizing her visit the greatest,” he said. fragrance industry.” magazine will launch its to New York to show her The filmmaker was less The ruling followed a October Design Issue with a resort collection this evening, but emotionally attached to the news single complaint about two-day retreat held in Marin also hosting an afternoon tea party that Lupita Nyong’o has joined the “Star the ad, after it was County, Calif., on Sept. 29. in her Greene Street store to benefit Wars VII” cast. “I had nothing to do displayed on elevator Presented by parent company the Women’s Leadership Council of with it. I read about it in the papers like doors in a U.K. mall. Condé Nast, and hosted in the Lincoln Center Corporate Fund everybody else,” Lucas said. “I have no While the complainant partnership with Lucasfilm and the 10 residential art programs idea what they’re doing.” also challenged the ad Ltd., the retreat will take place at Lincoln Center. Students from Amar’e Stoudemire spoke of a on a second count, that at Skywalker Sound in Marin Juilliard will perform. McCartney is different calling — the $2 billion sale it was “overly sexual and and at the Letterman Digital being honored by Lincoln Center Nov. of the Los Angeles Clippers. “It doesn’t demeaning to women,” Arts Center in San Francisco’s 13 at an event similar to last year’s really matter to me as long as we are the ASA didn’t uphold Presidio National Park. featuring Karl Lagerfeld as the honoree, able to play basketball. Yo u know, do that complaint. Instead, Speakers will include in conversation with Jessica Chastain. what you’re meant to do. That’s all that the ASA noted that the executives from the worlds of The cochairs for McCartney’s matters, right?” he said. “overall impression architecture, filmmaking, art evening include Glenda Bailey, Olivia As for whether the deal will ratchet of Rihanna created and fashion, along with invite- Harrison, Gabriela Perezutti, Austin Hearst up the asking price for other pro teams, by the ad was one of only guests who, according to and Dolly Lenz, while the host committee the NBAer said, “No, that’s just Los confidence,” concluding The controversial Rihanna ad. Wired, “work at the cutting is a list of McCartney’s famous friends: Angeles. Every team in Los Angeles and “the ad was unlikely to be edge of their endeavors.” Thus Alec Baldwin, Iman and David Bowie and New York will be very valuable. Two demeaning to women or cause serious or far, participants include Yahoo chief Cameron Diaz, to name a few. billion is a little bit steep but I’m sure widespread offence.” executive officer Marissa Mayer, David Chang “It feels so unreal the add up and it The ASA’s ruling means the ad must and Christina Tosi of Momofuku Culinary and extraordinary makes sense.” — R . F. not appear again without a placement Lab and Milk Bar, photographer Platon, to be honored at restriction. A spokesman for the ASA filmmaker Jeff Nichols and Aaron Koblin, Lincoln Center,” TRADING UP: Trademark, said this would involve the advertiser Google’s creative director of data arts. said McCartney. “It’s the collection by Pookie and working more closely with media owners, In order to attend, guests must the home of such Louisa Burch — daughters of to determine whether a poster site was fill out a form, which includes three amazing creativity. Chris, step-daughters of Tor y near to schools or other locations where questions about personal experiences I’m so humbled and — is evolving at a rapid children were likely to see it. “It’s not and inspirations related to design. If thankful, especially pace. After launching for an outright ban, but it’s about placing selected, the guest is expected to pay having been spring 2014, the collection [the advert] a bit more sensitively,” the $4,500 for a pass. Over the two days, surrounded with is opening its first store in spokesman said. the event will host about 250 people, the arts since Day August at 95 Grand Street Rihanna isn’t the only well-known including speakers. An updated list of One of my life. I am in . The name or brand to feel the force of the participants, as well as information on so proud because Burches also secured a ASA. Last year, the organization — which how to apply, can be found at live.wired. my mum grew up pretty major face for their independently regulates advertising com. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD in New York and summer online campaign: it’s always been a Trish Goff, shot by Max second home to me.” Farago. — J.I. — JESSICA IREDALE HUGO BOSS AND KATE BOY, MONDAY NIGHT Trish Goff for Trademark, TAKE 2: As part of its Hugo LIGHTS: Rag & Bone photographed by Max Farago. Tracks on Tour program, is switching up its Hugo Boss will throw a spot on the women’s New York Fashion party in Los Angeles tonight featuring For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Week schedule. Traditionally, the label the buzzy Swedish band Kate Boy. The has shown it’s women’s collection program, which launched in 2011 and the first Friday evening, but for the has featured up-and-coming electronic spring season it’s taking the 8 p.m. slot dance music, or EDM, bands Little on Sept. 8, otherwise known as Marc Dragon, Miami Horror and DJ Nina Spaces Jacobs’ old spot until two years ago. Kraviz, first partnered with Kate Boy BANKRUPTCY The move for Rag & Bone was done in Amsterdam last November for a COMMERCIAL AUCTION in the interest of capitalizing on the show at the massive underground club Subject to Bankruptcy Court Approval REAL ESTATE High quality service attendance of international press and Trouw. “That was like our biggest show Pattern, sampling, duplicates retailers. — J.I. to date. [Hugo Boss] have really helped and small production. MK Fashion 212-768-7446 us reach a larger audience,” said [email protected] PARKS’ GIVING TREE: Upon arriving at singer Kate Akhurst. Tuesday’s Gordon Parks Foundation Kate Boy, which also consists of PATTERNS, SAMPLES, 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes PRODUCTIONS awards gala at Cipriani Wall Street musician-songwriters Hampus Nordgren Full service shop to the trade. Menswear Showrooms Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 in Manhattan, Vera Wang and her Hemlin and Markus Dextegen, also D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 fellow honorees Irvin Mayfield, performed a cover Bid Deadline: 6/26/14 Auction Date: 7/8/14 Lorna Simpson, Ed Zwick, George of Edwyn Collins’ (Dates subject to court approval) Lucas and Mellody Hobson “Girl Like You” for Below Market Leases For Sale were surrounded by Parks’ a Hugo fragrance Sizes from 3,250 to 15,844 sf photography. Lionized by his spot. The band is set Desirable Class “A” Life magazine photographs, to release its first Locations Nationwide the late Parks, like many of album this summer Premium Mall, Lifestyle, Street & the boldface names in the and will play a one- Factory Outlet Store Locations crowd, led a multihyphenated off set on Thursday MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED career as a musician, at downtown Los GA Keen Realty Advisors, LLC Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- greatamerican.com/keen on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ film director, writer and Angeles venue stores. If you sell to fashion accessory T: (646) 381-9222 buyers, email: [email protected]. photographer. Safe to say, Swizz The Lash, drawing Beatz, Alicia Keys, Chelsea Clinton, RSVPs from Ivy Getty, Amar’e and Alexis Stoudemire, Kid Cudi, Devon Aoki, Henry Louis Gates Jr., Cecilia Dean, Kate Akhurst of Drake Bell and Jason (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Peter Beard and Gayle King could Kate Boy. Lewis, among others. relate to some degree. — MARCY MEDINA

w05a007a;9.indd 7 6/4/14 7:39 PM 06042014194025 8 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 WWD.COM J. Crew’s Drexler Challenge Strife Impacts Imports {Continued from page one} For the year-to-date through {Continued from page one} tive search firm E.A. Hughes & Co., said Lyons arrested after the demon- April, apparel imports from few retailers in a position to buy J. Crew. should not be overlooked. stration left brands and Bangladesh declined 3.5 percent. There have been rumors that Zara parent “The investment community needs to get over retailers uncertain and without “While there are still con- Inditex was interested in J. Crew, but a source their infatuation with the single-genius theory,” a path forward, he said. cerns about Bangladesh, we are familiar with the matter said Inditex, if it were she said. “Mickey Drexler’s success with J. Crew “Most Western buyers were getting very positive feedback to make any acquisition, would rather buy a fix- is well documented and at some point would be hoping one of the events last week for the long run and companies er-upper and does not want to pay top dollar for a great case study for students interested in a would set the stage on how to expect Bangladesh will deal with a successful business that it would then have to fashion career. However, Mickey is one of the few move forward on the wage issue these problems,” Hughes said. “I rework to fit its vertical operating platform. executives who has created succession planning and other outstanding issues in don’t think we will see a crash Although anything can happen, that more or at J. Crew with the unique partnership of Jenna Cambodia,” Herman said. “But in imports from Bangladesh, al- less clears the field of obvious strategic acquir- Lyons and Libby Wadle. Jenna being the presi- it just created a lot more uncer- though we are seeing this dip.… ers for J. Crew, leaving TPG and Leonard Green dent and executive creative director and Libby tainty than they already had and What we are seeing now are the option to take the company public yet again. as brand president. It is the marriage of art and didn’t seem to resolve anything.” orders that would have been Part of that process would likely involve a prom- science, or actually design and merchandising.” Apparel imports from placed potentially a year ago ise that Drexler would be on board for some Hughes said Drexler “stuck his neck out” by Cambodia to the U.S. fell 7.9 or nine months ago after Rana period of time. Or the investors could lose the making a designer president. “In this case, the percent to 88 million square Plaza happened, so it is not a Mickey Premium they paid and hold on to the designer, Jenna has been able to permeate the meter equivalents in April com- surprise to see a bit of a dip for investment longer. That organization with creativi- pared with April 2013, largely some companies that were un- would give them time to ty on all levels while main- a result of the disruptions certain and diversified their have Drexler train a new tain the business-savvy to caused by factory shutdowns in sourcing beyond Bangladesh.” ceo as the company seeks have equal responsibility January, industry officials said. Bangladesh garment indus- to boost profitability with to manage the operations, For the year-to-date through try trade groups, government its overseas expansion and real estate, etc.,” she said. April, apparel imports from officials and representatives further development of the Drexler seemed to al- Cambodia were down 0.2 per- from the industry initiatives are Madewell brand. lude to Lyons as a possible cent to 370 million SME. poised to visit Boston, New York Late Wednesday, J. Crew successor shortly after While the recent announce- and Washington next week. The reported a net loss of $30.1 J. Crew was taken pri- ment of a pullback in Cambodia delegation is planning to meet million for the first quarter vate. In an interview with by Levi Strauss with administra- ended May 3, down from Bloomberg Television, the & Co. will not hit tion officials and earnings of $29.3 million a ceo was asked if Lyons import data for U.S. lawmakers year earlier. The deficit in could possibly take over several months, here to discuss the most-recent quarter re- for him one day. “Well how industry officials 7.9% improving work- flected $36 million in loss- could you say no, right? I said they expect ing conditions es, net of tax, that were tied mean, I don’t know if she’s a decline in ap- DROP IN CAMBODIA-TO-U.S. in the hopes of to a refinancing package going to be watching this parel imports in APPAREL IMPORTS IN APRIL. restoring trade that is ultimately expected or not, but sure,” he said. the near term. benefits the U.S. to produce annual interest In that interview, Herman said rescinded last expense savings of $16 mil- Drexler addressed the he does not expect a “massive year, as well as attend a confer- lion. Adjusted earnings be- issue of a succession plan, pullout” from companies, but ence at Harvard University on fore interest, taxes, depre- GARETH JONES saying, “I can’t specu- noted that several firms have said globalization and sustainability ciation and amortization, Millard “Mickey” Drexler late on that. We’re a team they are going to pull back from in Bangladesh’s garment indus- that’s been together. The try on June 14, according to in-

or EBITDA, fell to $64.8 PHOTO BY placing new business in Cambodia million from $101 million. only reason we did this is in the short term. By the same dustry officials. Revenues increased 5 percent to $592 million. because of the team. The team got us here. The token, Herman said another com- Vietnam, the second-largest This is a continuation of a general financial team will get us to where we’re going. But I think pany, which he declined to name, apparel supplier to the U.S., has trend for J. Crew, which like other retailers finds everyone has to think about a succession plan. plans to open up three new facto- also just been through a period it confronting a consumer who’s stretched thin. And I think about that, too.” ries in the country. of turmoil, in which anti-Chi- In 2013, J. Crew’s EBITDA grew about 2.9 per- Others are more skeptical that Drexler — Julia Hughes, president nese protesters set fire to facto- cent to $370.2 million, a slowdown from growth whose micromanaging is the stuff of legend — is of the U.S. Fashion Industry ries in mid-May, causing some of 27.4 percent, to $359.6 million, the year earlier. the person to develop his own successor. Association, said, “As long as we major apparel and footwear One private equity player noted the compa- “His style, I’m not sure if it’s conducive to are continuing to see the pro- companies to temporarily halt ny’s owners have “huge valuation expectations” molding and shaping ceo talent,” the private tests and the dispute between production there. and that “the market is soft in apparel in the equity source said. “He kind of controls most the government and unions and While apparel imports from U.S. The earnings growth [at J. Crew] really isn’t everything. This is detail management and he’s workers, it is not a surprise that Vietnam in April rose 13 percent all that impressive. And you’re kind of cashing just all over it.” imports are down.” to 217 million SME, some expect to out to some degree on a world famous merchant- One banker summed up the situation this Hughes said she expects the see a downturn in future imports, ceo who’s not going to be there all that much lon- way: “Mickey likes to talk about succession and disruption to continue at least reflecting the instability there. ger, so it’s kind of tough to really justify.” having succession, but I don’t think he really in the short term. Herman said the widespread J. Crew and TPG declined to comment about wants succession.” While two major industry- unrest reportedly left a dozen the company’s succession plans on Wednesday. TPG and Leonard Green are only three backed initiatives aimed at im- apparel and footwear facto- Leonard Green could not be reached. years into the investment and can simply wait proving fire and building safety ries burned down and another Jenna Lyons is the best-known executive at and grow the business — adding more stores in Bangladesh in the wake of dozen damaged. the company behind Drexler and although she’s overseas and potentially developing a business fatalities there have helped “I think you could see a lit- taken on a more operational role as president under the name J. Crew Mercantile, which the lead to some stability in the tle slowdown in imports from and executive creative director, she’s an unknown company trademarked last year. country, apparel imports fell Vietnam, which have consis- quantity to many investors. Plus she would be “They don’t need to [exit the investment] right in April, compared with a year tently seen double-digit growth,” seen more as a creative type than the merchandis- now, so they’re sitting tight,” the banker said. earlier. Apparel imports from Herman said. “There is at least ing-financial combo that makes Drexler stand out. “Long term, they do have a Mickey problem.” Bangladesh to the U.S. fell 5.3 a hesitation now [in placing new Still, Elaine Hughes, president of execu- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM DAVID MOIN percent to 131 million SME. orders there].” Father’s Day Council Honors Four time he got up to accept his award, retort- By JEAN E. PALMIERI ing: “We now call New Jersey the place on the other side of the Lincoln Tunnel.” NEW JERSEY Gov. Chris Christie is Christie, who has four children, was known for his brash, direct manner. But joined by Bloomingdale’s chief Tony since the Bridgegate scandal rocked his Spring, Vince Camuto and former football administration last September, it ap- great Curtis Martin as honorees at the FALK EVAN pears he’s gotten a little less accessible. lunch. Spring and Camuto were introduced Chris Christie, Tony Spring Christie was one of four men who were by their sons, who lovingly poked fun at Curtis Martin and Vince Camuto and Macy’s Terry J. Lundgren. singled out as Fathers of the Year by the their dads. Camuto told the crowd how his PHOTOS BY National Father’s Day Council Wednesday. own dad died when he was just a toddler, now that he’s in that role, it’s his duty to taught me more in those two weeks than But the politician’s advance squad made causing him, his mother and sister to wind mentor both his colleagues at the store in the 30-plus years before.” Even so, he sure no reporters were allowed into the up homeless in Queens. But while his early as well as his children so they can make said he views the greatest accomplish- VIP reception, although photographers life was a struggle, he said his mom always important “contributions to our society.” ment of his life to be the fact that he got were permitted a whopping five minutes to reminded him that he could do anything. Perhaps the most touching speech of the his mother to forgive his father before he shoot him with the other honorees before Spring quipped that he needed an day came from Martin, who told the story died. He said that even when there are being shooed from the room. even bigger job than chief executive of- of how he had a father but “never had a “big divides” between kids and parents, In introducing the governor to the ficer of Bloomingdale’s to pay the bills daddy.” His father was a violent man who “just forgive them.” crowd at the Hilton Hotel in Manhattan, for his 20-year-old son, who is attending took drugs and beat his mother. “He taught The luncheon also honored Robert emcee Norah O’Donnell of “CBS This Cornell, and his 17-year-old, who’s get- me how not to be as a father,” he said. Reid, vice president of a medical device Morning” referred to him as coming from ting ready to enter college. Spring said But at the end of his life, they recon- firm from Massachusetts, as the Ashok “the place across the George Washington during his speech that becoming a ceo ciled. Martin visited his dad in hospice Sani All-Star Dad of the Year, presented Bridge.” Christie scowled and squirmed a was “never on my radar. I just wanted when he was dying of cancer and they by GQ. Proceeds from the lunch went to bit in his chair, but had recovered by the to work and make a little money.” But spent two quality weeks together. “He Save the Children. MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS The Reign in Spain Isaia has entered an Former Olympic yachtsman and incoming agreement for more exposure king of Spain Crown Prince Felipe has some royal style. Page MW4 in Greater China. Page MW4

June 5, 2014

LONDON PREVIEW Accessories Key For U.K. Brands

Labels see potential in everything from shoes and eyewear to leather goods.

by SAMANTHA CONTI

LONDON — Accessories frenzy is sweep- ing London, with designers and tailors of all stripes launching new collections, rais- ing footwear to ever more luxurious heights and designing their apparel with a variety of rich — be they in leather, gold or textured matte fabrics. Names ranging from A. Sauvage and Gieves & Hawkes to Burberry are all seeing demand for accessories soar, while Solange Azagury-Partridge has chosen the upcoming edition of London Collections: Men, which runs from June 15 to 17, to unveil her first men’s jewelry collection with a presenta- tion and short film featuring Mark Ruffalo. Accessories are growing as the British men’s wear market continues to flourish. According to Mintel, the market has grown by 12 percent in the past five years, and is worth 10.4 billion pounds, or $17.4 billion at current exchange. Mintel projects the mar- ket will grow 11 percent by 2017. To capitalize on the momentum, Nicholas Kirkwood will be staging an on-schedule pre- sentation for the first time during the week, while Harvey Nichols’ one-off collaboration with the DJ and art collective Been Trill will showcase shoes by Mr. Hare and eyewear by Linda Farrow, in addition to apparel. “Accessories is a new category for men — and no longer an afterthought. Men are paying more attention to the detail of an outfit, and accessories bring a lot of personality — and versatility,” said Jason Gray Skies Basmajian, creative director of Gieves & Hawkes. “There is an e-commerce ele- ment to accessories, too, because they are Christopher Raeburn channeled the a quick purchase.” Over the past year, Basmajian has spirit of the Arizona desert’s Boneyard, ramped up the Savile Row brand’s offer of leather goods, cuff links, shoes and eye- a storage facility for used military wear, all of which are designed and manu- factured in-house. aircraft, for his spring 2015 collection In April, Burberry said accessories was its fastest growing category in the second that will show in London later this half of the year ended March 31. Men’s month. The designer, whose collections accessories grew at a rate of 20 percent — twice that of women’s — during the six- are created from, and inspired by, month period. Briefcases and digital ac- cessories such as iPod cases were among discarded or surplus materials, said he the hottest items, and Burberry described the men’s category overall as a “huge” loved the idea of jets “that are either growth opportunity. Those brands are not alone in watching stored there, recycled, regenerated the category boom. “ Yo u cannot deny the power of accesso- or just reused.” For more designer ries; they are a large part of our business,” said John Ray, creative director at Dunhill, inspirations from the upcoming shows, whose spring collection features suede driving shoes with soft soles, and an updat- see pages MW2 and MW3. TIM JENKINS ed take on an old British Army kit bag, with a leather cross detail.

PHOTO BY {Continued on page MW4} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 Men’s Week

“A summer style that conveys a “For me, summer is blend of traditional sportswear about escape — escaping with contemporary, artisanal out of the city to the craftsmanship.” countryside — or to — Sandra Choi, creative director, Tuscany or Mustique. Jimmy Choo It’s about having fewer clothes, rather than more. The look is not overconsidered. This man gets out of bed in the morning, throws on some clothes, sticks on his driving shoes and gets away, so there is a mismatched feel to it. The fabrics are lightweight — silks for suits — and warm, chic colors.” — John Ray, creative director, Dunhill

▼ “The collection is about innovat creating an elegant and utilitarian the personalization of wardrobe s to mix modern and technical elem

hand-done ones.” — Richard Nicoll ▼ “We started with this interesting working relationship we found between Hardy Amies’ interior designer [William Haines] and himself. He was one of the first celebrity interior designers. He was quite influential in Hardy’s move into some homeware and upholstery fabrics and things like that. We found in the archives some really interesting prints and collaborative work between the two of them. So from there we developed the color palette and the prints and the tailoring.” — Mehmet Ali, design director, Hardy Amies LONDON INSPIRATIONS

“We explore the brand’s relationship with golf, particularly in the Fifties and Sixties. This traditional, almost aristocratic, aesthetic is blended with less obvious, edgier British subcultures to reinterpret what that relationship is. This idea of mixing concepts and playing the game of opposites is carried throughout, adding another dimension to time-honored icons. For example, a quintessential argyle knit is given edge with leather components incorporated in to the traditional diamond pattern. Something that was once so uncool suddenly becomes cool by simply adding

an element of the ▼ “The overall theme is gentlemen’s sport; the idea ▼ “There’s a lot of melancholia around the British seaside and, also, there’s an unexpected.” dressed for the occasion at various social events: bo oddness to it. The English seaside is not always sunny, it’s not always warm, so — Massimo Nicosia, Regatta, cricket — but with a lightness and fluidity. you’ve got all these strange outfits that people wear to the beach. The textures in head of design, bones, tans and ivories. Separates are very importa the collection reflect that kind of aged deck-chair canvas and the sort of peeling Pringle of Scotland matching jackets with trousers to break up the form paint on the sides of old beach…bathing huts and stuff like that.” lots of micro pattern to give depth to shirting, featur — Patrick Grant, E. Tautz polka dots and flower patterns.” — Jeremy Hackett, H Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 MW3

M M “I was looking at “The collection embodies the the hauntingly dreamy swagger of the English ‘frontman.’ Tokyo Compression by The juxtaposition of English photographer Michael uniform mixed with graphic Wolf and the work of pattern creates a rakish and artist Tara Langford, modern look of distinctive style.” who I have worked — Simon Spurr, creative director, with on some prints Kent & Curwen “Referencing for this collection. My the archives…the mood board naturally collections showcase had a lot of references a modern and fresh to plastic, either clear take on classic nautical or molten, the themes. Key styles of food wrapping and in Breton stripes are latex. As always, I given a new color have been looking at update via a palette the details of vintage inspired by seascape rainwear, and there horizons. New textures are some photographs are also a feature, of insects, too. Every taking inspiration from season begins the same both the rough and for me, with a visual smooth landscapes excursion through my found at sea.” books and the works of — Ian Maclean, my favorite artists.” managing director, — Raimund Berthold, John Smedley Berthold

“The collection is about innovating the familiar and creating an elegant and utilitarian wardrobe that celebrates the personalization of wardrobe staples. I’ve been excited to mix modern and technical elements with artisanal and hand-done ones.” — Richard Nicoll M“Fast track.” — Jane Chung, creative director, DKNY Men

M “We took a lot of inspiration from the English coast. It’s more muted and moody, less Mediterranean, with a lot of these teal blues, soft blues, pale gray, stone. It’s a very soothing palette. The collection is quite tonal and sophisticated. We’ve worked with a lot of exclusive fabrics. I almost call them urban tweeds — but summer versions. Then, instead of serious dress shirts, we’ve done a military-cut dress shirt in a cotton piqué knit, with a knit tie. The idea is to soften the furnishings with the suit, so it’s not quite so structured; it’s a little bit

more relaxed, a little bit breezier.” M “This season takes inspiration from the book ‘Brooklyn Gang’ by — Jason Basmajian, creative director, Gieves & Hawkes Bruce Davidson. We love the feeling of being a collective, or gang, and the freedom and youthful spirit these images portray.” M “A lot of the inspirations came from — Mark Thomas, men’s wear head designer, Joseph Thai boxing…and fabrications came from Thai boxer shorts. There’s a lot of continuity from the last two seasons as well. We have reworked the bubble From sports and the British seaside to the gangs of fabric from the sci-fi collection into Brooklyn, London designers tapped a range of sources for bags. The shoes are done as more of a sandal sort of hybrid rather than a their spring 2015 collections. — LORELEI MARFIL trainer. A lot of the fabrics are double- LONDON INSPIRATIONS faced jersey and neon and there’s no .…A lot of the edges have that M “I’d been going to those sort of hippie finish and contrast to markets you seem to get the sports finish, so it’s a collection of in provincial towns and contradictions as usual.” cities that all stock the — James Long same things: Joss sticks, old tour T-shirts and lots of dusty vinyl. I suppose it was a fondness for those rites of passage where you think you are being really spiritual buying some bindis and a packet of licorice Rizlas.” — Christopher Shannon

M IM JENKINS

“Whitewash: A metaphor meaning to gloss over or cover up. White is the T

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color of new beginnings, it is the blank canvas waiting to be written upon. B White is cleanliness personified.” — Emma Hedlund and Saif Bakir, Common OTOS H P ILL H UN D AND G ON L FOR MORE DESIGNER

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“The collection contemplates the . irresistible, all-engulfing infinity of the Sahara E

desert in the company of the Desert Rats, MIES, A a legendary band of men that effortlessly “The overall theme is gentlemen’s sport; the idea of the spectator embodied those fine, defining British qualities dressed for the occasion at various social events: boat race, Henley of derring-do and dogged determination in the HACKETT, Regatta, cricket — but with a lightness and fluidity. Colors are blues, face of the most trying circumstances. This a bones, tans and ivories. Separates are very important, mixing and collection that combines sharp, deftly detailed matching jackets with trousers to break up the formality. There’s also military precision in tailoring with innovation HAWKES, lots of micro pattern to give depth to shirting, featuring small horses, and easy-wearing durability and adaptability

polka dots and flower patterns.” — Jeremy Hackett, Hackett London in casualwear.” — Richard James GIEVES &

w05b002(3)a;10.indd 3 6/4/14 5:18 PM 06042014171918 MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 Men’s Week Accessories Growth Vehicle for London Brands {Continued from page MW1} more casual and versatile — but still Anda Rowland, vice chairman of tailored — dressing that also puts a Anderson & Sheppard, which offers focus on knitwear and tailored sepa- The Gieves & Hawkes bespoke tailoring and ready-to-wear, rates with an athletic twist. Labels up Landing in London bespoke room. said that one of the big trends she’s and down the London calendar, from LONDON — The catwalks and showrooms here may be seeing is the return of the pocket the East End to Savile Row, say men brimming with activity but so are the streets of Mayfair and square, “often worn without a tie.” are opting for shorter, more-fitted St. James’s. A clutch of new stores has opened — or under- She said matte pocket squares with knitwear to wear under jackets and gone refurbishment — on Savile Row and beyond. texture are the most popular. to pair with higher-waisted trousers. On June 16, Kilgour will host a party in its soon-to-be- Azagury-Partridge, meanwhile, “A lot of guys are wearing jack- opened store at 5 Savile Row. The space, designed by creative said her men’s collection, “Alpha,” ets with knits — wool or cashmere director Carlo Brandelli, will shut following the festivities, has been in the works for a while. polos. The jackets have a softer and reopen again at the end of June with the fall collection. “People have asked me for ages to shoulder — and it looks good,” said Brandelli, who rejoined Kilgour in January after leaving in do men’s,” said the designer, add- Thom Whiddett, cofounder of the 2009, won’t be presenting his spring collection on the official ing the collection was inspired by Mayfair Thom Sweeney. Both calendar, but will be showing pieces by private appointment. “every different type of man” — in- Anderson & Sheppard and Thom A few steps away at 1 Savile Row, Gieves & Hawkes has cluding the alpha and the stud — Sweeney said they are seeing some completed a major refurbishment of its bespoke and made- and that it will be “ever-evolving.” men lose their summer jackets alto- to-measure rooms. There are gray stone floors, smoked oak It features mainly gold that has gether, replacing them with short, paneling, brass, bronze and wrought iron fixtures — and been treated in a particular way, lightweight car coats. even a bar for customers. Gieves & Hawkes has also given said Azagury-Partridge, and in- Tailored separates are getting the store’s lobby a facelift, with touches of mohair and gray TIM JENKINS cludes bracelets, pendants, cuff softer and more comfortable, say flannel — while the store’s famous map room is the next links, and a version of the design- designers. Charlie Casely-Hayford space to be tackled. PHOTO BY er’s Written ring, which can be cus- said sportswear is a huge seller, At 39 Savile Row, across the street from Alexander tomized with names or messages. as well as a big influence on more McQueen, footwear brand Gaziano & Girling has opened A. Sauvage, a London name that formalwear. “Men want to feel com- a 1,000-square-foot store. It is the first shop for the brand, is rapidly becoming a red-carpet fortable,” he said, adding that the which was founded by shoemakers Tony Gaziano and Dean favorite, has turned its attention brand’s formal suit with a draw- Girling, and offers bespoke and ready-to-wear designs. to footwear. Designed by Adrien string trouser is among the best- A short walk away, in St. James’s, Barbour Sauvage, the label is introduc- sellers, as is a formal coat with International, Osprey London, and Tiger of Sweden have ing sneakers made from materials Neoprene details. all opened flagships as part of the Crown Estate’s regen- such as cotton sateen, fish skin and Agi & Sam, the label designed eration of the area. Later this month, Aquascutum plans to woven silk, and is also adding to its by Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton open a men’s-only Black Label store, the first of its kind in eyewear collection. that won the Emerging Men’s Wear the U.K., also in St. James’s. Richard Nicoll has collaborated Designer award at the 2013 British Come June 25, the London footwear label Mr. Hare with Bill Amberg on a capsule col- Fashion Awards, is adding a simi- will open its second store, a 254-square-foot space in lection “of utilitarian bags that suit lar athletic dash to its tailored London’s Notting Hill Gate, located at 178A Westbourne my DNA,” said the designer, adding clothing. “We’re trying to make Grove, with its entrance on the adjacent Ledbury Road. that among his bestsellers by far is a tailored and formal clothing more The label already has a boutique on Stafford Street baseball cap of his own design, done relevant to our generation, to mini- in London’s Mayfair, and the Notting Hill store will be in leather or gabardine. In the fall, mize certain things and it make near Matches on Ledbury Road, and Sandro and Zadig & Nicoll said he will be launching an it more functional,” said Cotton. Voltaire on Westbourne Grove. The label’s founder, Marc e-tail concept that will not only offer “It can be something as simple as Hare, said he plans for the space to have a “clubhouse” his collections, but encompass gift- using stretch in the wool for some- feel, serving up coffee, rum and newspapers alongside ing and flash sales as well. one who rides his bike to and from his shoes and accessories. The Tiger of Sweden store in London. The accessories boom is part of work, or replacing the ticket pock- — SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES an even bigger trend in London for et with one for a phone.”

Man of CROWN PRINCE FELIPE OF SPAIN: A- Isaia to Expand in China THE WEEK by JEAN E. PALMIERI deal. “While I cannot share specific store targets for Greater China, the potential ISAIA IS PLANNING to bolster its opportunity for the Isaia brand is signifi- He should lose the Over the past two years, presence in Asia. cant,” he said. “Since the label debuted pashmina scarf. It’s he’s sported a beard, The Italian luxury brand has signed in 2011 at Lane Crawford department too precious. giving him more of a a strategic partnership agreement with stores in Hong Kong and China, it has fashion edge, but this ImagineX Group, the Hong Kong-based performed incredibly well. It is currently new clean-shaven retail, brand management and distribu- a top performer in the made-to-measure look works well to The custom-made windowpane tion company, to aggressively expand category, and one of the fastest-growing distance himself from adds a subtle hint of distinction the brand in Greater China, a plan that brands in their portfolio.” his family’s myriad that helps elevate the ensemble and includes the opening of the first Isaia Each store in Greater China will fea- scandals. push it away from business casual. store in Central Hong Kong this summer. ture a tailor trained by Italian master Isaia was introduced to Greater tailors, who will travel to the region to China in 2011 by Lane Crawford, a lux- oversee the made-to-measure program, Congrats on not ury department store retailer and sister according to Isaia. The blue shirt works well wearing a pocket company of ImagineX within The Lane “Isaia is at a very exciting time in our with his blue eyes; he is, square. With this Crawford Joyce Group. growth,” said Gianluca Isaia, chief ex- after all, a charming prince. look, it would have “We are very excited about this part- ecutive officer of the company. “We are been too dandy. nership because the timing is perfect for inspired by ImagineX’s ability to truly un- a brand like Isaia to enter the Greater derstand the essence of our brand. With a The length of the sleeve is China market to capture the emerging long legacy of knowledge, creativity and correct, we just don’t know and fast-growing opportunity of the new resources behind them, this partnership what happened to the shirt. era of men’s wear,” said Thomson Cheng, is a natural fit to achieve success in this Let’s hope he’s not wearing a managing director of ImagineX. “Our market. The Chinese consumer repre- sleeveless number. focus will be to open stores in prime loca- sents this idea of the ‘new gentleman’ — tions in China, starting with Beijing and a sophisticated world traveler who appre- Shanghai, so that more customers have ciates the highest quality products and access to and continue to enjoy the Isaia creates their own sense of style informed The incoming king of Spain collection of tailored men’s wear, sports- by personality and a taste for luxury.” is wearing the traditional The khakis are the wear, leather accessories and a made-to- Cheng agreed, noting that the perfect shade of IMAGES measure service. We are actively evalu- brand’s sartorial style “speaks to that uniform of the upper-class beige, which makes ating retail locations in China as well man who has confidence, who is willing GETTY the look very tonal. as in Macau with a planned launch in to define his own style, and who is on Madrid man. That’s not a bad VIA those markets by 2015 and excited to be the increase in China.” thing, and it shows that the launching our first store in the Landmark Isaia, a family-owned company [in] Central Hong Kong in August 2014.” founded in Naples in the Twenties, is former Olympic yachtsman, The blue suede horse- Landmark is a high-end shopping sold in the U.S., Canada, Europe, China, bit loafer is an elegant development that also boasts stores Japan, Africa and the Middle East. who’s over 6 feet 5 inches tall, shoe, but a bit too from Alfred Dunhill, Brooks Brothers, ImagineX represents 20 brands in PRESS PRESS/EUROPA matchy-matchy. A dark Corneliani, Dior Homme and others. Greater China, including Salvatore knows how to dress for his brown shade would be Cheng would not provide a number Ferragamo, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, more unexpected. EUROPA on how many stores ImagineX would ul- Paul & Shark, Paul Smith, 3.1 Phillip body size and proportion. BY timately expect to open over the course Lim, Marc by Marc Jacobs, DKNY and

PHOTO of the companies’ five-year partnership Club Monaco.