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A Study of the Labels of Women's Foundations Jennie Selén

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A Study of the Labels of Women's Foundations Jennie Selén “Because you’re worth it” A Study of the Labels of Women’s Foundations Jennie Selén, 38555 Pro gradu -avhandling i engelska språket och litteraturen Handledare: Brita Wårvik Fakulteten för humaniora, psykologi och teologi Åbo Akademi 2020 ÅBO AKADEMI – FACULTY OF ARTS, PSYCOLOGY AND TEOLOGY Master’s thesis abstract Subject: English Language and Literature Author: Jennie Selén Title: “Because you’re worth it”: A Study of the Labels of Women’s Foundations Supervisor: Brita Wårvik Makeup has been around since ancient times; it is something which has been used by Cleopatra and Elizabeth I and is today used by millions of people around the world. It appears as if there has always been a desire to alter one’s skin tone. Trends have shifted from a preference for a lighter skin to the current trend of using self-tanning products to achieve a sun-kissed look. Today the selection of makeup products is very large. However, attention has been drawn to problems with the availability of different makeup products not to mention the labels these products have in particular for women with a darker skin colour. This thesis examines the labels which cosmetic companies give their foundations. The aim is to study what kinds of labels are used for different shades of foundations. The study is carried out by conducting a semantic categorisation in which the connotations of the most frequently used labels are examined. The interest is to see if there are any emerging patterns and differences for the labels given to the products depending on the skin colour of the person the product is aimed for. The analysis was conducted using material extracted from Google and Sephora. Twenty cosmetic companies were included in the analysis. Product labels for liquid foundations, one product per company, were retrieved for analysis. The material was inserted into an Excel document, which allowed for a thorough analysis. The aim of the analysis was to examine the most frequently used labels for each of the three shade categories, meaning for light, medium and dark shades of foundations. Additionally, the categories along with the modifiers for the labels were examined. Differences were observed in the labels most frequently associated with the three shade categories. The light shades of foundations often have labels related to decorative, valuable and precious objects or materials. The most frequently used labels for medium shades of foundations are such whose connotations suggest a degree of value; however, the majority of the labels refer to objects and materials which are considered to be less valuable compared to light shades. The most frequently used labels for dark shades of foundations have labels which are associated with the least valuable substances and objects. The results of the study suggest that there is a clear difference in how the labels are targeted towards consumers with light skin compared to those with a darker skin colour. The labels are more conventionalised for the lighter shades, whereas there is much more variety in the labels for darker shades. In order to receive a broader picture, an analysis of even more cosmetic companies, and perhaps also of other types of cosmetic products, like concealer and powder is needed in order to see if their labels show similar tendencies. Key words: linguistics, semantics, labels, colour perception, makeup, connotations, foundation Date: 7.11.2020 Pages: 96 Table of contents List of tables and figures 1 Introduction ............................................................................................................ 1 2 Meaning and colours .............................................................................................. 3 2.1 Meaning ............................................................................................................ 3 2.2 Colours ............................................................................................................. 5 2.3 Skin colour ........................................................................................................ 8 3 The history of makeup ......................................................................................... 11 3.1 Attitudes towards skin colour throughout time .............................................. 11 3.2 Methods of whitening one’s skin.................................................................... 11 3.3 Skin colour attitudes today ............................................................................. 14 3.4 Cosmetic companies ....................................................................................... 15 4 Materials and methods ......................................................................................... 17 4.1 Materials ......................................................................................................... 17 4.2 Methods .......................................................................................................... 18 5 Analysis .................................................................................................................. 21 5.1 Examining the categories................................................................................ 21 5.1.1 Consumables ....................................................................................................................... 21 5.1.2 Colours ............................................................................................................................... 26 5.1.3 Nature ................................................................................................................................. 27 5.1.4 Numbers ............................................................................................................................. 29 5.1.5 Materials ............................................................................................................................. 29 5.1.6 Skin colours ........................................................................................................................ 30 5.1.7 Animals............................................................................................................................... 31 5.1.8 Places .................................................................................................................................. 31 5.1.9 Decorations ......................................................................................................................... 32 5.1.10 Metals ............................................................................................................................ 32 5.1.11 Temperature ................................................................................................................... 33 5.1.12 Scale ............................................................................................................................... 34 5.2 Uncategorised labels ....................................................................................... 34 5.3 Connotations ................................................................................................... 35 5.3.1 Light foundation labels ....................................................................................................... 36 5.3.2 Medium foundation labels .................................................................................................. 40 5.3.3 Dark foundation labels ........................................................................................................ 43 5.4 Modifiers ........................................................................................................ 46 5.5 Cosmetic companies with a distinct categorization system............................ 49 6 Discussion .............................................................................................................. 51 6.1 Trends in labelling foundations ...................................................................... 51 6.1.1 Categories ........................................................................................................................... 51 6.1.2 Similarities .......................................................................................................................... 53 6.1.3 Frequencies across categories ............................................................................................. 59 6.1.4 Differences ......................................................................................................................... 61 6.1.5 Summary............................................................................................................................. 62 7 Conclusion ............................................................................................................. 64 Swedish summary - Svensk sammanfattning ............................................................. 68 References...................................................................................................................... 75 Appendix ....................................................................................................................... 79 List of tables and figures Tables: Table 1: The distribution of the main categories into the different shade categories ..... 21 Table 2: The distribution of labels according to shade in the different subcategories ... 22 Table 3: Labels referring to “nuts” ................................................................................
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