In Japan and the US and Portrayals of Women's Roles in Makeup
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Megumi Taruta (1M151151-3) Graduation Thesis Definition of “Beauty” in Japan and the US and Portrayals of women’s roles in Makeup Video Advertisements of America and Japan ~Comparative Case Study on Cosmetic Brands: Maybelline New York and Maquillage ~ Graduation Thesis for Bachelors of Arts Degree Waseda University, School of International Liberal Studies, 2019 Megumi Taruta (1M151151-3) Professor Graham Law Media History/ Media Studies Seminar July 2019 1 Megumi Taruta (1M151151-3) Graduation Thesis Abstract This paper is written in order to achieve two aims: 1) find out the extent to which perceptions of beauty is similar in contemporary Japan and the US and 2) discover how the portrayals of women regarding their roles and lifestyles in recent beauty advertisements (within the last two decades) differ depending on different countries. It is a comparative case study on cosmetic brands using one brand for each country- Maybelline New York (the U.S) and Maquillage (Japan). The paper starts off with introducing the two brands by providing the history and the background information of each brand. Company information of the owners of the brands (L’Oréal and Shiseido) is also included. In addition, an overview of current makeup market in the US and Japan is also written as extra background information. The two brands are chosen due to many similarities making it a fair comparison. They are similar in terms of price, the target market and the fact that they are both owned by global beauty companies. In terms of definition of beauty, the analysis is divided into body parts: skin, lips and eyes- specifically, eyeshadow for the eyes. Regarding women’s roles, the paper looks at women’s personalities and lifestyles. A total of 11 TV commercials are analyzed and each commercial is described under six categories: 1) Description 2) Slogan 3) Models 4) What the narrator is saying 5) Concept 6) Keywords. The analysis shows that there are similarities and differences in definition of beauty and females’ roles between the two countries and this paper attempts to assess the possible reasons and explanations of such results found from the analysis. Although perception of beauty and women’s roles are both complex and are considered to be indistinct matters, this paper tries to gain valuable insights and achieve a deep understanding of such topics through conducting an in depth analysis of 11 TV commercials of the two brands. Keywords: Definition of beauty, Women’s roles, TV commercials, Comparative analysis 2 Megumi Taruta (1M151151-3) Graduation Thesis Table of Contents 1. Introduction…………………………………………………………………………4 1.1 Thesis Objectives and Research Questions…………………………………………....4 1.2 Defining Key Terms………………………………………………………………..………4 2. Hypothesis………………………………………………………………….………6 3. Methodology……………………………………………………………….……….8 4. Maquillage and Maybelline New York’s History and Brand Description (including information on owners of the brands)…………………….….………9 4.1 Maquillage (Shiseido)…………………………………………………………......………9 4.2 Maybelline New York (L’Oréal)…………………………………………………..……...11 5. Current Makeup Industry in the Two Countries……………………….………14 5.1 Current Makeup Industry in Japan………………………………………..…………….14 5.2 Current Makeup Industry in the US……………………………………..………………16 6. Analysis………………………………………………………….………………..18 6.1 Definition of Beauty Analysis ①: Perfect Skin + Ideal Skin Tone………………….18 6.2 Definition of Beauty Analysis ②: Lips…………………………………………………23 6.3 Definition of Beauty Analysis ③: Eyes………………………………………………..26 6.4 Roles of Women (Personality) Analysis ①: Lady vs. Wild Girl……………………..31 6.5 Roles of Women (Lifestyles) Analysis ②: Girls’ Night Out and Finding New Love.38 7. Implications and Research Limitations…………………………………………45 7.1 Implications………………………………………………………………………………..45 7.2 Other Interesting Results found from the Analysis……………………………………48 7.3 Research Limitations……………………………………………………………………..49 8. Conclusion………………………………………………………………………...50 9. Works Cited………………………………………………………………………..52 3 Megumi Taruta (1M151151-3) Graduation Thesis 1. Introduction 1.1 Thesis Objectives and Research Questions The perception and definition of beauty as well as women’s roles in the society and their ways of living have been constantly evolving. This paper will investigate how makeup advertisements define beauty and represent women in the society by conducting a comparative analysis between two makeup brands that are from different countries: Japan and USA. Therefore, the goal of this paper is to discover the extent to which the definition of beauty is similar in contemporary Japan and the US and whether the portrayals of women regarding their roles and lifestyles in recent beauty advertisements (within the last two decades) are different depending on different countries. In order to answer the questions, this paper will analyze 11 makeup TV commercials in total. For Japan’s makeup company, I have chosen Maquillage owned by Shiseido and for the US, I have selected Maybelline New York owned by L’Oréal. 1.2 Defining Key Terms Without a doubt, defining beauty is complex. Each person has his or her own definition of beauty, as it is a subjective concept. The culture, evolutionary factors, the media and individual personalities can all influence the perception of one’s beauty. Thus, it is crucial to define “beauty” in order to avoid confusion. Chaipraditkul (2013) states that beauty can be defined as an enhancement of one’s appearances. Nowadays, people have access to different methods in order to do this as Chaipraditkul (2013) further writes: “people are now exposed to advanced medical technology and cosmetic products to improve and treat their self-perceived conditions, physical abnormalities and facial disfigurations” (p.1). According to quantitative and qualitative research conducted by McCann Worldgroup (2012), women around the world believe that beauty is composed of several factors and when these all factors are put together, “beauty” is formed. McCann Worldgroup (2012) explains that there are four factors and such factors are divided into two groups: “looking beautiful” and “feeling beautiful”. Basically, beauty is created from inside and outside or in other words, physically and mentally. The two components for the “looking beautiful” group are: 4 Megumi Taruta (1M151151-3) Graduation Thesis 1) Foundational Beauty: Skincare, hair care, hair color, sunless tanner. These play important roles in providing a solid foundation for one’s beauty. 2) Enhancement Beauty: Color cosmetics, accessories and style. These are all the components women are likely to incorporate when they want to try a new look or style according to the mood or occasion or just simply “when they want to take their beauty to the next level” (p.11). The other two which are categorized in the “feeling beauty” are: 1) Wellness Beauty: This is where you have a healthy lifestyle: taking enough nutrients as well as enough rest, being active and removing makeup before going to bed. The significance of the concept of ‘wellness beauty’ is increasing around the globe. As a matter of fact, according to McCann Worldgroup (2012), most women believed that ‘eating the right food’ and ‘getting enough exercise’ were the most important factors out of all when they were asked the most important element to obtain beauty. 2) Emotional Beauty: Confidence, talent, charisma, kindness, and intelligence. Today, women attempt to present beauty not only through style, but also through substance. (McCann Worldgroup, 2012) The figure below shows a diagram of the concept explained above to have a clearer image. (From McCann Worldgroup, 2012) 5 Megumi Taruta (1M151151-3) Graduation Thesis This paper will focus on the “looking beautiful” group or in Chaipraditkul’s (2013) words, beauty being as a way to “improve and treat their self-perceived conditions” (p.1) with the use of cosmetic products and explore beauty in terms of appearance and the external, physical features (the face more specifically). “Feeling beauty”, in other words, inner beauty will not be explained as it is beyond the topic of this paper. Also, another factor that may affect the concept of beauty is the PR and the marketing techniques used by companies but this paper will not focus on this particular factor, and instead only concentrate on cultural and ethnic factors that affect “beauty”. In this paper, the term “cosmetics” will be referred to the definition from Cambridge Dictionary: “substances that you put on your face or body that are intended to improve your appearance” (Cosmetic, n.d., para. 1). The concept of cosmetic surgery will not be included, as it is not related to this paper. 2. Hypothesis Since definition of beauty is subjective and is affected by culture as mentioned before, it can be predicted that feminine beauty ideals are different across countries. Thus, the advertisements of the two countries will likely to show different perceptions of beauty. For example, regarding skin, it can be expected that Japanese advertisements are more likely to put emphasis on “bihaku” (美白) meaning beautiful white, while the US advertisements focusing more on tanned, bronzed skin. Looking at Japanese skin products in general, there are countless amount of “bihaku” products and thus there are a lot of advertisements and media with “bihaku” message which will influence the Japanese women greatly. There is even a saying “White skin make up for seven defects” (色白は七難隠す) meaning that even if one has many unattractive features concerning physical appearance, if one has white