Lynn M. Thomas
[email protected] please do not cite or quote without author’s permission Chapter Two. Imported Cosmetics and Colonial Crucibles: Pre-histories to the Twentieth-century Use of Commercial Skin Lighteners This draft chapter is part of my current book project that examines the production, consumption, and opposition to skin lighteners in South Africa and tracks how these processes were intimately related to developments in Europe, Asia, East Africa, the broader southern Africa region, and particularly the United States. Although skin lighteners generated significant profits and controversy in all of these locales over the past century, they have garnered scarce historical attention. The overarching aim of this transregional and transnational history is to demonstrate how changing politics of gender, race, and consumption developed through the movement of people, ideas, and especially things between a range of locations. Much of my book is focused on the second half of the twentieth century. In the wake of the Second World War, the sale of skin lighteners took off as black South Africans became more engaged in capitalist consumer culture and the elaboration of apartheid further heightened the political and social salience of nuances in skin color. By the 1960s, skin lighteners were a mass produced and consumed commodity in South Africa; one marketing survey from 1969 found that among urban African women, skin lightening creams ranked as the fourth most commonly used household product after soap, tea, and tinned milk. Over the 1970s, two different forms of opposition to skin lighteners emerged: one rooted in the Black Consciousness movement and its political affirmation of “Black is Beautiful,” and the other, in medical professionals’ health concerns over the main active ingredients then found in skin lighteners, notably ammoniated 2 mercury and hydroquinone.