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The Insider's Guide to the World's Coolest Neighbourhoods

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The Insider's Guide to the World's Coolest Neighbourhoods The Insider’s Guide to the World’s Coolest Neighbourhoods CONTENTS © Michael Abid / 500px; © f11photo / Shutterstock; © marchello74 / Shutterstock; © lazyllama / Shutterstock / Shutterstock; © marchello74 / Shutterstock; © f11photo © Michael Abid / 500px; © peeterv / Getty Images; © Daniel Fung / Shutterstock; © Yu Chun Christopher Wong / Shutterstock; © Elena Lar / Shutterstock © Elena Lar / Shutterstock; Wong Chun Christopher © Yu / Shutterstock; © peeterv / Getty Images; © Daniel Fung INTRODUCTION 4 Dubai 24 Hong Kong 58 Edinburgh 88 Berlin 134 NORTH AMERICA 172 Austin 216 New York City 260 Wellington 302 Buenos Aires 322 Seoul 64 London 92 Prague 144 San Francisco 174 New Orleans 224 Boston 270 Auckland 306 Rio de Janeiro 328 AFRICA & THE ASIA 30 Tokyo 68 Barcelona 100 Stockholm 150 Portland 182 Chicago 232 MIDDLE EAST 6 Mumbai 32 Paris 110 Budapest 154 Vancouver 188 Atlanta 240 OCEANIA 276 SOUTH AMERICA ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 336 Marrakesh 8 Bangkok 38 EUROPE 78 Amsterdam 118 Istanbul 160 Seattle 196 Toronto 244 Perth 278 & THE CARIBBEAN 312 Cape Town 12 Singapore 46 Lisbon 80 Rome 122 Moscow 166 Los Angeles 202 Washington, DC 248 Melbourne 284 Lima 314 Tel Aviv 18 Beijing 52 Dublin 84 Copenhagen 130 Mexico City 210 Philadelphia 254 Sydney 292 Havana 318 INTRODUCTION It’s easy to fall in love with San Francisco. (p. 318), Austin (p. 216), Lima (p. 314) and But to understand what makes the city tick, Moscow (p. 166). We also included popular I needed to do a little sleuthing. cities that travellers think they know well – The first time I explored this preening blonde, beachy Sydney (p. 292); desert- peacock of a city, I dutifully toured its backed glamourpuss Dubai (p. 24); haven of signature attractions. I weaved through the cashed-up, beautiful Los Angeles (p. 202) crowds on the Golden Gate Bridge, I – and asked our in-the-know writers to reveal boarded the ferry to Alcatraz, I queued for the hidden scoop. big-ticket galleries... but something was For each of the 50 cities profiled in the missing. My feet were tired, my wallet was book, we’ve swung the spotlight onto emptying fast, yet I was learning little neighbourhoods where you can feel the about why locals love the city by the bay. rhythms of local life. Sometimes the city’s Following the advice of San Franciscans, I most well-trampled streets are only a short turned my attention to the city’s outlying distance away but there’s a well-concealed neighbourhoods. And that’s when San treasure: perhaps a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Francisco truly revealed its gritty, glittering cafe in Rio de Janeiro’s Copacabana (p. 329) self. Looking down from Potrero Hill as the or a historic jazz bar in Stockholm’s Gamla late-afternoon sunshine painted the skyline Stan (p. 151). Elsewhere we profile gold, the city started to work its magic. Deep neighbourhoods you might not know much in a bar in industrial neighbourhood about but should really consider staying in: Dogpatch, to the maracas sound of cocktail Tokyo’s grungy Kōenji (p. 76), barnacle-clung shakers, I no longer felt an outsider but like Wapping and Rotherhithe in London (p. 98), one of the locals. and Staten Island’s North Shore in New York Seeking out intriguing neighbourhoods City (p. 266). continues to enrich my travels. I fell head over Each neighbourhood profile has heels with Melbourne (p. 284) by brunching out-of-the-ordinary recommendations for my way through Brunswick and bolting into eating, drinking, partying and delving into Windsor’s hidden bars. Basing myself in local culture. All of them are hand-picked by Sukhumvit allowed me to dive head-first into experts who know these cities inside out, the giddy nightlife of Bangkok (p. 38). and they’re accompanied by maps to orient It’s the joy of exploring neighbourhoods you in these exciting districts. that inspired us to create Secret City, a Locals might groan that we’ve divulged curious traveller’s guide to 50 cities around some of their best neighbourhood secrets, the world. Some are classic destinations like but we think you’ll love our toolkit for Paris (p. 110), Rome (p. 122) and Istanbul travelling deeply. (p. 160), which have long lured travellers to Happy exploring, their timeless attractions. Other cities have Anita Isalska, Editor undergone dramatic changes over recent years, so much so that an insider’s recommendations can completely transform a traveller’s experience: cities like Havana © Mark Read / Lonely Planet / Lonely © Mark Read © saiko3p / Shutterstock © saiko3p 7 444444 â ARTS & CULTURE ý MUSIC & FILM Ø SPORTS & LEISURE ú EATING û DRINKING þ SHOPPING music from Gnaoua performers, 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 calligraphy classes, cooking 141 1 44444 2 12 1 1 1 2 21 1 1 2 12 1 1 1 workshops and cinema nights. 2 2444444 2 2 KASBAH & MELLAH 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Moroccan storytelling evenings 2 2 2 444444 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 are particularly poignant, striving 2 2 2 444444 Mouassine & Approaching the medina’s southerly Kasbah and Mellah, the streets to record a fading oral history. Central4 Souqs44444 MARRAKESH widen and storks strut on blushing fortified walls. The Kasbah is 224 Derb Chtouka, Kasbah; www. 444Marrakesh444 Marrakesh’s oldest quarter and its cluster of ancient sights – the Badi cafeclock.com; 9am-11pm. 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Bold and at times abrasive, Marrakesh is Palace, Bahia Palace and Saadian Tombs – bring floods of visitors. 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Tour groups rarely linger and it remains a mellow neighbourhood, 2 2 2 2 2 2 a many-faced metropolis where modern â Lazama Synagogue 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 especially when combined with Marrakesh’s old Jewish quarter. Established in 1492 by Jews 2 2 2 2 Kasbah &2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Africa dances with historic monuments, 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Mellah2 2 2 2 2 expelled from Spain, the Lazama 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 ancient crafts and caravanserai traditions. Ø Les Jardins de la Medina (and yes, it does serve alcohol). Synagogue is an active place of One of the medina’s largest 21 Derb Chtouka, Kasbah; www. worship and a museum exploring he heart and soul of palm-fringed pools lies behind lesjardinsdelamedina.com. 2000 years of Jewish heritage in Marrakesh lie in the tangled the deceptively blank facade of Morocco. It offers a window into guts of its medina, an Les Jardins de la Medina riad. â Café Clock the history of Marrakesh’s Jewish T ancient deep-veined city When the mercury spikes, there’s This import from Fez is far more diaspora (there are only 150 left). that started life under the Berber no better place for a swim. Day than a cafe famed for its camel Derb Talmud Tora, Mellah; 9am- Almoravids in 1070. For centuries it access packages (Dh400 to burgers. Come for its cultural 7pm Sun-Thu, to 6pm Fri; Dh10. prospered as the epicentre of the Dh650) include lunch by the roster supporting local talents: western Islamic world, plundered pool and graceful colonial bar there are jam sessions, tribal beat þ Kaftan Queen MARRAKESH and glorified in turn by successive Good-quality, contemporary R Riad Zitoun el-Jedid Place de 2 2 2 2 2 2 Jnane Ben sultans, and later ruled as a French Foucauld 2 2 2 2 2 2 kaftans are the lifeblood of RIAD Chegra 2 2 2 2 2 2 protectorate. Between 2018 and ZITOUN 2 2 2 2 2 2 this hidden, first-floor fashion 2019 the souqs, funduqs (ancient Ave Houmane 2 2 2 2 2 2 boutique. Maxi, bejewelled, el-Fetouaki 2 2 2 2 2 2 inns) and shrines of the medina 2 2 2 R Imam2 2 Rhezali2 2 2 2 patterned or plain – shoppers can 2 2 2 2 2 Cemetery2 2 2 2 were scrubbed and restored, 2 2 2 Miaâra2 2 2 2 2 2 take their time trying them on in Kaftan Lazama 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Jewish making it prettier (and more Queen Synagogue2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 sumptuous fitting rooms, paired þ# â# 2 2Cemetery2 2 2 2 2 2 2 sanitised) than ever. 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 with pastel babouches (slippers). â# 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 R Bab Mellah The central neighbourhood of Place des 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1st fl, 186 Al Fatouki (enter from 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Mouassine is riding the winds of R Uqba ben Nafaa Ferblantiers MELLAH2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Rue Riad Zitoun el-Kedim); www. 2 2 2 2 2 2 change with rooftop cafes and 2 2 2 2 2 2 facebook.com/Kaftanqueen; 10am- 2 2 2 2 2 2 achingly hip boutiques that have Place des 2 2 2 2 2 2 1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat. Tombeaux 2 2 2 2 2 2 one eye on Europe and the other Saadiens 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 on Africa, all wedged between 2 2 2 2 2 2 â Place des Ferblantiers 2 2 2 2 2 2 R de la Kasbah gritty, working souqs.
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