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MOROCCO © Lonelyplanetpublications 142 Rocco Hassuchcachet.The Quite It © Lonely Planet Publications 142 lonelyplanet.com MOROCCO •• Highlights 143 HIGHLIGHTS HOW MUCH? Morocco Marrakesh ( p178 ) Dive into the clamour and endless spectacle that is Morocco’s Dorm bed US$3.40 to US$5 most dynamic city. Pot of mint tea US$0.60 Fès ( p161 ) Lose yourself in the exotic charms of a medieval city replete with Museum admission US$1.20 sights, sounds and smells. Hammam US$1.20 Essaouira ( p173 ) Laze by the sea in Moroc- Petit-taxi ride US$1.20 Morocco is sensory overload at its most intoxicating, from the scents and sounds that perme- co’s coolest and most evocative resort. ate the medinas of Fès and Marrakesh to the astonishing sights of the landscape. High Atlas ( p185 ) Trek deep into a world LONELY PLANET INDEX of stunning scenery and isolated Berber Morocco has always been a crossroads between Africa, Europe and the Middle East, and villages. 1L petrol US$1.20 nowhere evokes this sense more than Tangier, that faded poster boy for Europe’s often Drâa Valley ( p186 ) Explore Morocco’s 1L bottled water US$0.60 decadent but sometimes creative presence on Moroccan shores. From Tangier, turn south richest collection of kasbahs and then Bottle of Flag US$0.50 to US$0.70 along Morocco’s Atlantic Coast and you’ll be accompanied by a sea breeze that massages soak up the solitude of the Sahara. Souvenir T-shirt US$12 the ramparts of wonderful cities whose names – Essaouira, Casablanca, Asilah, Rabat – and CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO Grilled brochette US$3.40 to US$4.50 atmosphere carry a whiff of African magic. Travel east along the Mediterranean coast and Morocco is at its best in spring (mid-March to you’ll be bidden into enchanting towns and the mountains of the Rif. May), when the country is lush and green, fol- lowed by autumn (September to November), If it’s mountains you love, Morocco has them in abundance, rising from the Rif into the when the heat of summer has eased. At other also for a detour to Meknès ( p166 ) while Middle Atlas and on into the extraordinary contours of the High Atlas. This is land custom-built times, don’t underestimate the extremes of you’re in Fès. Count on a three-day round for trekking as you follow quiet mountain trails amid Berber villages and fields of flowers. summer heat and winter, particularly in the trip from Marrakesh to trek up Jebel High Atlas, where snowcapped peaks persist Toubkal ( p185 ), and four or five days Then, suddenly, everything changes. The mountains fissure into precipitous gorges the from November to July. If you are travelling to explore Aït Benhaddou ( p186 ), Todra colour of the earth, mud-brick kasbahs turn blood-red with the setting sun and the sense in winter, head for the south, although be pre- Gorge ( p188 ), Dadès Gorge ( p188 ), the pared for bitterly cold nights. The north coast Drâa Valley (p186 ) and the sand dunes that one has stumbled into a fairytale takes hold. From rocky fortresses such as these, the and the Rif Mountains are frequently wet and around Merzouga ( p189 ). Sahara announces its presence in Morocco with perfectly sculpted seas of sand. cloudy in winter and early spring. Apart from the weather, the timing of HISTORY At journey’s end, the solitude of the Sahara is ideal for contemplating why it is that Mo- Ramadan (the traditional Muslim month of Live Free or Die Trying: The Berbers rocco has such cachet. The answer is simple: there is no place on earth quite like it. fasting and purification, which occurs dur- Morocco’s first-known inhabitants were Near ing September or October depending on the Eastern nomads who may have been distant calendar) is another important consideration cousins of the ancient Egyptians. Phoenicians FAST FACTS as some restaurants and cafés close during the appear to have arrived around 800 BC, and day and general business hours are reduced. when the Romans arrived in the 4th century MOROCCO Area 446,550 sq km (710,000 sq km if you BC, they called the expanse of Morocco and include Western Sahara) ITINERARIES western Algeria ‘Mauretania’ and the indige- ATMs Throughout the country except in Two Weeks nous people ‘ Berbers’, meaning ‘barbarians’. From Tangier ( p151 ), head to MOROCCO small villages Tetouan ( p156 ) or the mountains around In the 1st century AD, the Romans built up Borders Algeria closed; Mauritania open chilled-out Chefchaouen ( p157 ), where Volubilis into a city of 20,000 (mostly Berber) but no public transport you’ll end up staying longer than you people, but, fed up with the persistently un- planned. Then make a beeline for Fès ruly Berbers, the Roman emperor Caligula Budget US$15 to US$25 per day ( p161 ) and Marrakesh ( p178 ), imperial declared the end of Berber autonomy in North Capital Rabat cities in the Moroccan interior that de- Africa in AD 40. But whereas the Vandals and Languages Arabic, French, Berber serve as much time as you can spare. If Byzantines failed to oust the Romans from you’ve time, a detour to artsy Essaouira their home turf, Berbers in the Rif and the Money Dirham (Dh); US$1 = Dh8.5 ( p173 ) is a wonderful way to step down Atlas ultimately succeeded through a cam- Population 33.2 million a gear after the onslaught of Morocco’s paign of near-constant harassment – a tactic Seasons Hot (June to August), cold (November to February) most clamorous cities. that would later put the squeeze on many an One Month Follow the itinerary above, but unpopular Moroccan sultan. % % Telephone Country code 212; international access code 00 on your way south check out cosmopoli- As Rome slipped into decline, the Berbers Time GMT/UTC tan Casablanca ( p169 ), imperial Rabat harried and hassled any army that dared to Visas 90-day visas issued on entry for most nationalities ( p147 ) or laid-back Asilah ( p169 ), de- invade to the point where the Berbers were pending on your inclination. Save time free to do as they pleased. MOROCCO 144 0 200 km MOROCCO 0 120 miles MOROCCO MOROCCO S P A I N See Enlargement Algeciras Gibraltar (UK) To To Cádiz Tangier Algeciras Gibraltar (UK) Malaga Ceuta (Spain) 0 100 km Tetouan To Sète 0 60 miles Tangier (France) Ceuta (Spain) Melilla MEDITERRANEAN Asilah MEDITERRANEAN Chefchaouen (Spain) SEA ATLANTIC Tetouan A T L A N T I C Larache SEA RABAT Saidia R I F OCEAN O C E A N MOUNTAINS Chefchaouen Melilla Meknès Al-Hoceima Casablanca (Spain) El-Jadida Oujda Ouezzane Fès Kenitra Nador Volubilis Ketama Settat Salé Roman R Safi RABAT Ruins IF MOUN INS M Moulay TA I DDLE AT LAS Casablanca Idriss Meknès Taza Taourirt Essaouira Fès Beni Mellal Midelt H IGH Sefrou Guercif Marrakesh AT LA S Bouarfa Asni Er-Rachidia Aït Benhaddou Tinerhir Azrou Ifrane Taghazout Taroudannt Jebel Boudnib Agadir Boumalne Settat Khouribga Toubkal Erfoud (4167m) du Dadès Figuig Rissani Tiznit Taliouine Béchar M I D Ouarzazate Tazzarine Merzouga DLE ATLAS Sidi Ifni Tafraoute AN Zagora Tata Ziz TI -A Tan Tan TLAS Drâa M'Hamid Plage Canary Islands Goulimime Tarfaya Oued Oued (Spain) Tan Tan GRAND ERG OCCIDENTAL Laayoune Smara Tindouf Bou Craa T S E R D E R A H A Tropic of Cancer SA Bir N Moghrein Ain Ben Tili ER ST Dakhla E W A L G E R I A Reggane lonelyplanet.com To In Salah (200km); M A U R I T A N I A Tamanrasset (600km) M A L I Gueguarat Nouâdhibou for the Palais el-Badi ( p179 ) in Marrakesh; ) inMarrakesh; p179 el-Badi ( for thePalais Fès; theSaadians(1524–1659),responsible madrassas mosquesand 1465), knownfortheirexquisite (1269– ); the Merenids p179 oubia Mosque( (1147–1269), famousforbuildingtheKout- theAlmohads built theircapital atMarrakesh; (1062–1147),who included theAlmoravids rising andfallingIslamicdynasties,which Thuscommencedacycleof Morocco. all of withitscapitalsid state atFès,dominating Arabs. againsttheeastern rebellion sparked which IslamicShi’ism, their ownbrandof although, truetoform,localtribesdeveloped nearly allBerber tribeshadembracedIslam, Withinacentury, NorthAfrica. the peoplesof andoverwhelmed from theArabianPeninsula set theProphetMohammed forth of diers the7thcentury,sol- In thesecond halfof Islamic Morocco lonelyplanet.com widespread across a broad cross-section of across abroad cross-section of widespread thatdissent remained and the poor ensured standing, thegrowing gapbetween therich ing forself-determination. Sahrawipeopleagitat-unsettling indigenous withMoroccanswhilegreatly settling thearea Saharain1975, intoWestern March Green reservesphosphate withthe350,000-strong anditslucrative its claimtothearea staked the SpanishSahara startedtoboom.Morocco industryin the 1970s.In1973, thephosphate debt by Moroccowasdeeply in reaucracy, bu- borrowingand anever-expanding heavy With and suspendingparliamentforadecade. powerbycrackdownsondissent solidated II con- thenewnation.Hassan the leaderof II became in1961,KingHassan heart failure France andSpainin1956. itsindependencefrom successfully negotiated fromexilein1955,andMorocco V toreturn and theAllies,FranceallowedMohammed fromMoroccans pressure Under increasing Royal Morocco the Istiqlal(independence)party. withthedevelopment of political channels into continued tosimmerawayandmoved mountain but tribeswasofficially crushed, zone inthenorth.OppositionfromBerber capital atRabat andhandingSpainatoken (1659–present). and theAlawites By 829, local elites hadestablished anIdris- By 829,localelites Such grand and patriotic flourishes notwith- grandand patrioticflourishes Such V diedsuddenlyof When Mohammed France tookcontrolin1912,makingits (Quranic schools), especiallyin (Quranicschools), ••Culture MOROCCO your appreciation loudly. your appreciation andbelch toslurpyourtea
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