MOROCCO but Sometimes Creative Presence Onmoroccanshores
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© Lonely Planet Publications 784 www.lonelyplanet.com MOROCCO •• History 785 Coast and you’ll be accompanied by a sea breeze that massages the ramparts of wonderful cities whose names – Essaouira, Casablanca, Asilah, Rabat – and atmosphere carry a strong whiff of African magic. Should you instead travel east along Morocco’s Mediterranean Coast, Morocco you’ll be tempted into enchanted towns such as Tetouan and Chefchaouen and the mountains of the Rif. If it’s mountains you love, Morocco has them in abundance, rising from the Rif into the HIGHLIGHTS Middle Atlas and on into the extraordinary contours of the 1000km-long and over 4000m-tall Marrakesh Dive into the clamour and spectacle of Morocco’s most dynamic city ( p800 ) High Atlas. And then, suddenly, everything changes. The mountains fissure into precipitous Fès Lose yourself in the exotic charms of this medieval treasure-trove of sights, sounds earth-coloured gorges, mud-brick kasbahs turn blood-red with the setting sun and the sense and smells ( p805 ) that one has stumbled into a fairy tale takes hold. Essaouira Laze by the sea in Morocco’s coolest resort ( p799 ) Morocco’s secret is simple: there is no place on earth quite like it. Chefchaouen Catch a mountain breeze in this stunning Rif town ( p792 ) Best journey Row across the river (and back a few centuries) from contemporary Rabat HISTORY Hassan II retained all effective power until ( p796 ) to old-fashioned Salé ( p798 ) Most present-day Moroccans are descendents his death in 1999. of indigenous tribes that have inhabited the The new king, Mohammed VI, has adopted Maghreb hills for thousands of years. When a reformist agenda, especially in the area of FAST FACTS the Romans arrived in North Africa in the 2nd social policy and women’s rights. His West- Area 446,550 sq km (almost the size of century BC, they called the locals ‘Berbers’ ern-looking policies are controversial, feeding Spain) (similar to the term ‘Barbarian’ ascribed to a small but growing Islamic fundamentalist the northern European tribes) because of their movement that reared its head with terrorist ATMs Widespread incomprehensible tongue. bombings in Casablanca in 2003. Capital Rabat In the second half of the 7th century, the Famous for hashish, Humphrey Bogart soldiers of the Prophet Mohammed set forth THE CULTURE and Casablanca, Marrakesh, tajine and from the Arabian Peninsula and overwhelmed People of Arab-Berber descent make up al- couscous the peoples of the Middle East. Before long, most the entire Moroccan population, which nearly all Berber tribes were embracing Islam, is mainly rural (about 60%) and young (70% Head of State King Mohammed VI although local tribes developed their own are under 30 years). With a growth rate of Languages Arabic, French, Berber brand of Islamic Shi’ism, which sparked rebel- 2.2%, the population is set to double almost Money dirham (Dh); A$1 = Dh6.54; €1 = lion against the eastern Arabs. every 25 years. Dh11.14; ¥100 = Dh7.69; NZ$1 = Dh5.51; By 829 local elites had established an Id- Despite extensive Westernisation, Morocco Country Codes country code %212; UK£1 = Dh12.29; US$1 = Dh8.85 rissid state dominating all of Morocco, with remains a largely conservative Muslim society. international access code %00 its capital at Fès. This commenced a cycle of A high degree of modesty is demanded of Phrases salamu’lekum (hello, ‘peace upon Time GMT/UTC rising and falling dynasties, which included: both sexes in dress and behaviour, especially you’), shukran (thanks), ensh’allah (God the Almoravids (1062–1147), who built their in rural areas. Women are advised to keep willing) Visas Usually not required for visits of 90 days or less, except for citizens of Israel, capital at Marrakesh; the Almohads (1147– their shoulders and upper arms covered and Population 33.2 million South Africa and Zimbabwe. 1269), famous for building the Koutoubia to opt for long skirts or trousers. All mosques, Mosque ( p801 ); the Merenids (1269–1465), cemeteries and religious buildings in active known for their exquisite mosques and med- use are off limits to non-Muslims unless TRAVEL HINTS ersas (Qur’anic schools), especially in Fès; otherwise signed. When you arrive in Morocco, hit the bank and load up on small change for the seemingly inces- the Saadians (1524–1659), responsible for the If invited into a Moroccan home, it is cus- sant payment of taxis, tips and guides. Palais el-Badi in Marrakesh ( p801 ); and the tomary to remove your shoes before stepping Alawites (1659–present). onto the carpet. Food is served in common ROAMING MOROCCO France took control in 1912, establish- dishes and eaten with the right hand – the ing its capital at Rabat and handing Spain left hand is used for personal hygiene and Ferry to Tangier, relax in Chefchaouen, then move on to Marrakesh and continue to Essaouira. Make a token zone in the north of the country. should not be used to eat, to touch any com- your way back up the coast, stopping at Casablanca, Rabat or Asilah on the way. Alternatively, Opposition from Berber mountain tribes was mon source of food or water, or to hand over take the ferry in through Ceuta, a Spanish enclave, for a more hassle-free entry into Morocco. crushed, but political resistance emerged with money or presents. the development of the Istiqlal (independ- ence) party. RELIGION MOROCCO Welcome to one of the greatest shows on earth. Independence was finally granted in 1956. Ninety-nine percent of Moroccans are Mus- Morocco is sensory overload at its most intoxicating, from the scents and sounds that The Spanish also withdrew, retaining the lim. Muslims share their roots with Jews and permeate the medinas of medieval Fès and magical Marrakesh to the astonishing sights of the coastal enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla. Sultan Christians and respect these groups as Ahl MOROCCO MOROCCO infinitely varied Moroccan landscape. Mohammed V became king, and was suc- al-Kteb, People of the Book. Fundamentalism Most travellers enter Morocco at Tangier, that faded poster boy for Europe’s often decadent ceeded by his son in 1961. Despite moves to- is mostly discouraged but remains a presence, but sometimes creative presence on Moroccan shores. Turn south along Morocco’s Atlantic wards democracy and several coup attempts, especially among the urban poor who have MOROCCO 786 0 400 km MOROCCO 0 250 miles Málaga S P A I N MOROCCO See Enlargement Algeciras Gibraltar (UK) Almería Algeciras Gibraltar (UK) To Málaga Tangier Ceuta (Spain) 0 100 km Tarifa Tetouan To Sète 0 60 mi Tangier Ceuta (Spain) To Almería Asilah M E D I T E R R A N E A N Al-Hoceima Melilla (Spain) A T L A N T I C Tetouan S E A Larache Oued Laou Nador Saidia RABAT R I O C E A N F M TN S Chefchaouen El-Jebha Meknès Melilla Casablanca (Spain) El-Jadida Oujda Al-Hoceima Fès Ouezzane Nador Kenitra Volubilis Ketama Settat Salé Roman R Safi RABAT Ruins IF Casablanca MOU NS M NTAI I DDL AS Moulay Idriss E AT L Meknès Taza Taourirt Essaouira Fès Beni Mellal Midelt H Guercif IGH Sefrou Marrakesh AT LA S Bouarfa Er-Rachidia Ifrane Asni Tinerhir Azrou Aït Benhaddou Settat Taghazout Jebel Boudnib Agadir Taroudannt Khouribga Toubkal Boumalne Erfoud (4167m) du Dadès Figuig Taliouine Rissani Béchar M Tiznit Ouarzazate I DDLE ATLAS Tazzarine Merzouga Sidi Ifni Tafraoute AN Tata Zagora TI -A Ziz Tan Tan TLAS Drâa Canary Islands Plage M'Hamid (Spain) Goulimime Oued Oued Tarfaya Tan Tan GRAND ERG OCCIDENTAL A T L A N T I C Laayoune O C E A N Smara Tindouf Bou Craa T S E R D E R A H A Tropic of Cancer SA N Bir Moghrein ER Ain Ben Dakhla ST Tili www.lonelyplanet.com E W A L G E R I A Reggane M A U R I T A N I A M A L I Gueguarat Nouâdhibou www.lonelyplanet.com is picking the land clean, thereby accumulat- is picking thelandclean,thereby whileovergrazing practices and deforestation, farming intensive inmore alsoresult pressures Population been dryforatleast 10years. have pend uponthemelt; inthesouth,mostrivers de- whosefall frommountain rivers regions lostevery year. are forest of hectares and25,000 endangered are vertebrates 10% of disappearing, are Morocco’s ecosystems of one-third isprotected, Moroccanterritory of newnationalparks,lessthan0.05% ment of plantationpite programmesandthedevelop- Des- issues facingtheMoroccangovernment. environmental themajor are deforestation endangered. sidered con- thetotal) and11birdspeciesare 15% of ness meansthat18mammals(astaggering industrialisation inMorocco’swilder- ment of andtheencroach- from sprawlingurbanareas as theBarbary pressure ape).Unfortunately, and sociableBarbary macaque(alsoknown many endemicspecies,includingtheiconic habitat for andprovide ecosystems different mountain than40 anddesert –hostmore ecologicalzones–coast, Morocco’s three ENVIRONMENT around 300,000in1948. community toabout7000fromahigh of Morocco’soncerobustJewish has reduced imagine. as Westerners fundamentalism isnotasgreat popularity of developments andthe such do notfavour Muslims of growth. Thatsaid, themajority economic thebenefitsof enjoyed noneof Pollution, desertification, overgrazing and Pollution, desertification, overgrazing Global warming has stolen valuable snow- Global warminghasstolenvaluable Emigration toFrance,IsraelandtheUSA tion, while occupa- Fès inthetwilightofFrench Spider’sHouse, The READING UP Morocco. ney throughthecontradictions ofmodern MWeiss,chartsWalter anambitiousjour- andBazaars, ofDreams the Labyrinth life. herself andanalternative toMarrakesh tofind who takes herchildren ofayounghippie engagingly tells Freud, city. degenerate’ ofthis‘seedy,salacious,decadent, the life accountof isahighlyreadable Finlayson, Tangier: CityoftheDream, Tangier: by Paul Bowles, describes Bowles,describes byPaul Hideous Kinky, TRANSPORT ••Getting &Away There Morocco: In Morocco: In by Esther byEsther by Iain byIain by by Casablanca and most other main cities to Casablanca andmost othermaincities to 022 458080; www.ctm.co.ma) The Moroccanbus company Bus intown. agent orfromanytravel departure attheport of available are Tickets for halfprice.