MOROCCO but Sometimes Creative Presence Onmoroccanshores

MOROCCO but sometimes creative presence onMoroccanshores. Turn southalongMorocco’s Atlantic infinitely variedMoroccan landscape. permeate themedinasof Fèsand magical medieval Welcome tooneof thegreatest showsonearth. Morocco 784 © LonelyPlanetPublications HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

Morocco is sensory overloadMorocco issensory atitsmostintoxicating, fromthescentsand soundsthat ( p796 ) toold-fashioned Salé( p798 Best journey ) Chefchaouen Essaouira and smells( p805 ) Fès Marrakesh Most travellers enter Morocco atTangier, thatfadedposter boyforEurope’s often decadent

take theferrytake inthroughCeuta, aSpanishenclave, foramore entry intoMorocco. hassle-free on theway.Alternatively,your waybackupthecoast,stopping atCasablanca, orAsilah Rabat Ferry toTangier, relax inChefchaouen,thenmove andcontinue toEssaouira. ontoMarrakesh Make ROAMING MOROCCO sant paymentoftaxis,tipsandguides. When youarrive inMorocco,hitthebankandloaduponsmallchangeforseeminglyinces- TRAVEL HINTS FAST FACTS

willing) you’), couscous Population Phrases UK£1 =Dh12.29;US$1Dh8.85 Dh11.14; ¥100=Dh7.69;NZ$1Dh5.51; Money Languages Head ofState and Famous for Capital ATMs Spain) Area Lose yourself intheexoticcharms yourself Lose of treasure-trove thismedieval of sounds sights, Casablanca, 446,550sqkm(almostthesize of Widespread shukran Laze by the sea inMorocco’scoolestresort bythesea ( Laze p799 ) dirham(Dh);A$1=Dh6.54;€1 Dive of intotheclamourandspectacle Morocco’smostdynamiccity( p800 ) Rabat

salamu’lekum Row acrosstheriver (andbackafew centuries)from contemporary Rabat Catch a mountain breeze inthisstunningRiftown( amountain Catch p792 ) Arabic,French, Berber 33.2million hashish,Humphrey Bogart (thanks), King MohammedVI King Marrakesh, tajineand Marrakesh, (hello,‘peaceupon ensh’allah (God

international accesscode South Africa andZimbabwe. days orless,exceptforcitizens ofIsrael, Visas Time Country Codes Marrakesh of totheastonishing sights the GMT/UTC Usually notrequired forvisitsof90 country code % 00 % 212; of theRif. you’ll betempted intoenchanted towns such asTetouan andChefchaouen andthe mountains ofwhiff Africanmagic.Should youinstead travel eastalongMorocco’sMediterranean Coast, Asilah, –andatmosphere Casablanca, names–Essaouira, Rabat carryastrong cities whose breeze thatmassages therampartsofCoast andyou’llbeaccompaniedbyasea wonderful www.lonelyplanet.com wards democracy and several coupattempts, wards democracy andseveral byhisson in1961.Despiteceeded moves to- Mohammed Vbecameking, andwassuc- enclavescoastal andMelilla. of Ceuta Sultan The Spanishalso withdrew, retaining the ence) party. ofthe development theIstiqlal(independ- crushed, butpoliticalresistance emerged with tribeswas mountain Opposition fromBerber a token zoneinthenorthof thecountry. andhandingSpain atRabat ing itscapital Alawites (1659–present). Palais inMarrakesh el-Badi ( p801 ); andthe the Saadians(1524–1659),responsible forthe ersas (Qur’anicschools), especiallyinFès; known fortheirexquisite mosquesandmed- Mosque ( p801 ); theMerenids (1269–1465), 1269), famousforbuildingtheKoutoubia atMarrakesh;capital theAlmohads (1147– the Almoravids (1062–1147),whobuilttheir rising andfallingdynasties,which included: atFès.Thiscommencedacycleofits capital dominatingallofrissid state Morocco,with lion againsttheeastern Arabs. brand of IslamicShi’ism, which sparked rebel- theirown localtribesdeveloped although tribeswere embracingIslam, nearly allBerber long, the peoplesof Before theMiddleEast. from theArabianPeninsula andoverwhelmed soldiers of forth theProphetMohammed set incomprehensible tongue. ofthe northernEuropeantribes)because their ascribedto (similar totheterm ‘Barbarian’ theycalledthelocals‘Berbers’ century BC, the Romansarrived inNorthAfricathe2nd Maghreb of hillsforthousands years. When of indigenous tribesthathave inhabited the Most present-day Moroccansare descendents HISTORY takes hold. that onehasstumbledintoafairytale earth-coloured gorges, mud-brick kasbahs turnblood-red sunandthesense withthesetting changes. Atlas.Andthen,suddenly,everything High fissure Themountains intoprecipitous Middle Atlasandonintotheextraordinarycontours of the1000km-longandover 4000m-tall France tookcontrolin1912,establish- Independence wasfinallygranted in1956. By 829localelites anId- hadestablished halfofIn thesecond the7thcentury, Morocco’s secret issimple:there isnoplaceonearthquite like it. youlove,If it’smountains Moroccohastheminabundance, risingfromtheRifinto MOROCCO ••History especially amongtheurban poorwhohave is mostly discouraged butremains apresence, al-Kteb, Christians andrespect groupsas these lim. Muslimsshare theirrootswithJews and Ninety-nine percentof Moroccansare Mus- RELIGION money orpresents. mon sourceof foodorwater, ortohandover toeat,touch anycom- should notbeused forpersonal hygiene and left handisused hand–the dishes andeaten withtheright incommon onto thecarpet.Foodisserved tomary toremove before yourshoes stepping signed. otherwise areuse limitsto non-Muslimsunless off cemeteries and religious buildingsinactive to optforlongskirtsortrousers.Allmosques, their shoulders and upper armscovered and in ruralareas. Womenare tokeep advised both sexes indress andbehaviour, especially degreeA high of modestyisdemandedof remains Muslimsociety. alargely conservative 25years.every todoublealmost 2.2%, thepopulationisset are under30years). Withagrowthrate of is mainlyrural(about 60%)andyoung(70% most theentire Moroccanpopulation,which People of descentmake Arab-Berber upal- THE CULTURE in2003. bombings inCasablanca movement thatreared itsheadwithterrorist a smallbutgrowingIslamicfundamentalist ern-looking policiesare controversial, feeding HisWest- social policyandwomen’srights. a reformist agenda, especiallyinthearea of his deathin1999. Hassan IIretained alleffective poweruntil Despite extensive Morocco Westernisation, The newking,Mohammed VI,hasadopted If invited intoaMoroccanhome,itiscus- People of the Book.Fundamentalism

785

Ahl Ahl MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO 786 0 400 km MOROCCO 0 250 miles Málaga S P A I N MOROCCO See Enlargement Algeciras Gibraltar (UK) Almería Algeciras Gibraltar (UK) To Málaga Tangier Ceuta (Spain) 0 100 km Tarifa Tetouan To Sète 0 60 mi Tangier Ceuta (Spain) To Almería Asilah M E D I T E R R A N E A N Al-Hoceima Melilla (Spain) A T L A N T I C Tetouan S E A Larache Oued Laou Nador Saidia RABAT R I O C E A N F M TN S Chefchaouen El-Jebha Meknès Melilla Casablanca (Spain) El-Jadida Oujda Al-Hoceima Fès Ouezzane Nador Kenitra Volubilis Ketama Settat Salé Roman R Safi RABAT Ruins IF Casablanca MOU NS M NTAI I DDL AS Moulay Idriss E AT L Meknès Taza Taourirt Essaouira Fès Beni Mellal Midelt H Guercif IGH Sefrou Marrakesh AT LA S Bouarfa Er-Rachidia Ifrane Asni Tinerhir Azrou Aït Benhaddou Settat Taghazout Jebel Boudnib Agadir Taroudannt Khouribga Toubkal Boumalne Erfoud (4167m) du Dadès Figuig Taliouine Rissani Béchar M Tiznit Ouarzazate I DDLE ATLAS Tazzarine Merzouga Sidi Ifni Tafraoute AN Tata Zagora

TI -A Ziz Tan Tan TLAS Drâa Canary Islands Plage M'Hamid (Spain) Goulimime Oued Oued Tarfaya Tan Tan GRAND ERG OCCIDENTAL A T L A N T I C Laayoune

O C E A N Smara Tindouf Bou Craa T S E R D E R A H A Tropic of Cancer SA N Bir Moghrein ER Ain Ben Dakhla ST Tili www.lonelyplanet.com E W A L G E R I A Reggane

M A U R I T A N I A

M A L I Gueguarat Nouâdhibou www.lonelyplanet.com is picking thelandclean,thereby accumulat- practices and deforestation, while overgrazing pressures alsoresult inmore intensive farming have dryforatleast10years. been Population pend uponthemelt; inthesouth,mostrivers regions riversfall frommountain whose de- hectares of forest are year. lost every 10% of vertebrates are endangered and 25,000 of Morocco’secosystems are disappearing, of Moroccanterritory isprotected, one-third ment of newnationalparks,lessthan0.05% programmesandthedevelop- pite plantation issues facingtheMoroccangovernment. Des- deforestation are themajor environmental sidered endangered. 15% of and11 birdspeciesare thetotal) con- ness meansthat18mammals(astaggering ment of inMorocco’swilder- industrialisation from sprawlingurbanareas andtheencroach- ape).Unfortunately, pressureas theBarbary macaque(alsoknown and sociableBarbary many endemicspecies,includingtheiconic different ecosystems andprovide for habitat –hostmore anddesert than40mountain Morocco’s three ecologicalzones–coast, ENVIRONMENT around 300,000in1948. ofcommunity toabout7000fromahigh has reduced Morocco’s oncerobustJewish as Westerners imagine. popularity of isnotasgreat fundamentalism do notfavour such andthe developments themajoritygrowth. Thatsaid, of Muslims enjoyed noneof thebenefitsof economic Pollution, desertification, overgrazingPollution, desertification, and Global warminghasstolenvaluable snow- Emigration toFrance,IsraelandtheUSA tion, while Fès inthetwilightofFrench occupa- The Spider’sHouse, READING UP Morocco. ofmodernney throughthecontradictions anambitiousjour-Walter MWeiss,charts the Labyrinth ofDreams andBazaars, herself andanalternative life. herchildrenwho takes tofind toMarrakesh Freud, tells engagingly ofayounghippie degenerate’ city. the life ofthis‘seedy,salacious,decadent, Finlayson, isahighlyreadable accountof Tangier: CityoftheDream, byPaul Bowles,describes Hideous Kinky, TRANSPORT •• Getting There &Away ••Getting TRANSPORT Morocco: In byEsther byIain by 30km southeastof Otherinter- Casablanca. in French &Arabic) Casablanca andmost othermaincities toCasablanca 022 458080; www.ctm.co.ma) The Moroccanbus company Bus departure orfromanytravel agent intown. for halfprice. Tickets are available attheportof extra, whileacaris€50to€80.Children travel aga inSpain.Bringingabicyclecosts €8to€15 only), Melilla andNadortoAlmeríaMál- Daily ferries gofromAl-Hoceima (summer toAlgeciras (€25,35minutes, hourly). Ceuta hours, Hourlyferries twoweekly). alsorunfrom minutes, France(€220,36 five daily)andSete, to 70minutes, hourly),Tarifa, Spain(€22,35 there are boatstoAlgeciras, Spain(€31,60 isTangier,The mosttrafficked fromwhere ports alongMorocco’sMediterranean coast. Regular ferries runtoEuropefromseveral Sea of on allMorocco’sairports,check thewebsite and Tangier. Forcomprehensive information national airportsare inFès,Marrakesh, Rabat airport Mohammed Vinternational Morocco’s maininternational entrypointis Air THERE&AWAY GETTING TRANSPORT supply of water forirrigation. apace toaddress therisingdemandandfalling forendangeredhabitats species–continues wetlands–whichcoastal provide important tonnes of solidwaste, whilethedrainingof of 2.4million alone produceanannualharvest for drinkingandirrigation.Morocco’scities thereby water suppliesused contaminating soilandwaterways,released intothesea, environment. Industrialwaste isroutinely problem thatthreatens tochoke Morocco’s ments are lostforever. Pollutionisanother forfarmingandpristineenviron- unsuitable fester,health andsanitation landbecomes crisis of foodandwater supplyinwhich poor In theend,ravaged villages confronta ortorrentialwhipping sandstorms flooding. the result, rendering cropsdefenceless against change.bal environmental is Desertification ing thepressures heapeduponthelandbyglo- Office NationaldesAéroports Office . operates buses fromoperates buses

CTM (www.onda.org.ma, (

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% 022 539040) Casablanca 787

, MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO entering from the right. entering fromtheright. side. Onaroundabout, give waytotraffic by credit card. deposit (Dh3000 to Dh5000)unlessyoupay Most companiesdemandareturnable cash per dayforabasiccarwithunlimited mileage. orDh500 atDh3500 per week prices starting Morocco. from thecar’sinsurer. Not allinsurers cover isrequired aGreenalso acceptable), Card licences, includingUSandEUones,are Driving Permit manyforeign (although registration documentandanInternational Inadditiontoavehiclestraightforward. Taking yourownvehicle toMoroccois &Motorcycle Car ofthan those othercompanies. whichtours are buses, more slightly expensive It’s besttobookaheadforCTM andSupra- privately owned andonlyoperate regionally. work. Morocco’sotherbuscompaniesare all Supratoursthrough towidenitstrainnet- www.oncf.org.ma, inFrench) km13.5,Casablanca) Autoroute deRabat, national carrier, competing forbusinessalongsidethemain out Morocco, withmanyprivate companies networkof operatesA dense through- buses Bus one of itsoffices. only iftheticket inadvancefrom isbought available but onallRAMdomesticflights, and under-26 youthdiscountsof 25%are Mohammed VInternational Airport.Student and manyinternal are flights routed through astheirhub Casablanca Both airlinesuse mestic airline, with paltrycompetitionfromoneotherdo- .com) Royal AirMaroc Air AROUND GETTING 7950 1661;www.busabout.com) Eurolines toMoroccoinclude companies withservices ( larly goodlinkstoSpanish networksis withparticu- Another Moroccanbusservice andItaly. Spain,Germany France, Belgium, 788 % The In Moroccoyou drive ontheright-hand Renting acarinMoroccoisn’tcheap, with 022 245274;www.tramesa.ma, inFrench). dominates theMoroccanairlineindustry, MEDITERRANEAN COAST &THERIF MEDITERRANEAN Office NationaldesCheminsdeFer Office

(www.eurolines.co.uk) (RAM;

Regional AirLines Regional CTM % ( % rail company runs buses railcompanyrunsbuses 09000 0800;www.royalairmaroc 022 753677; www.ctm.co.ma; 022 753677;www.ctm.co.ma; . and Busabout . (

% UK-based UK-based 022 538080) (

% (ONCF; Tramesa 020- .

is for those aged overis forthose 26andgives you 50% able inMorocco. Fidelité (Dh149) TheCarte the service. a reduction of 10%to50%,dependingon aged fourand12yearsThose between get Dh90. Children aged underfourtravel free. six bunksandthey’re wellworththeextra and Tangier. Thecompartmentsfoldupinto on theovernight Marrakesh trainsbetween on anyjourney.Couchettes are available trains, but2nd-classismore thanadequate ferent 1st- and2nd-classfares onallthese fast andpreferable There tobuses. are dif- Tangier lineatSidiKacem. northeast, alsotoMarrakesh, joiningwiththe down toMarrakesh; andfromOujdainthe carry passengers: fromTangier inthenorth .oncf.org.ma, inFrench). Morocco’s trainnetworkisrunby Train when full. cramped passengers andnormallyonlyleave neighbours. Theylinktownstotheirnearesttaxis). arenear busstations ing alongroadsandgathered ingreat flocks and are usuallymetered. are tocarryupthree passengers licensed are notpermitted togobeyondthecitylimits, which are adifferent city.They colourinevery Cities andbigger townshave local Local Transport Chefchaouen. of Tangier tothesuperbly relaxing townof hustleoffrom thecosmopolitan the city coastline frames diverse charms ranging ranean, northern Morocco’s wildlybeautiful andthecrashing wavestains of theMediter- Bounded bythered cragsof theRifMoun- COAST &THERIF MEDITERRANEAN as aphotocopyof yourpassport. onepassport-sizedphotoaswell you willneed discounts.Toapplyforthecard you thesame Jauneunder 26,theCarte (Dh99)willgive journeys ina12-monthperiod.Ifyou’re reductions return oneight or16one-way The Belgian-made trainsare comfortable, The Belgian-made Two typesof raildiscountcards are avail- The oldMercedes belt- vehicles you’llsee Grands taxis There are twolinesthat grands taxis www.lonelyplanet.com take sixextremely petits taxis, ONCF (shared (www www.legation.org; 8 Rue d’Amerique; donations appreciated; www.legation.org; 8Rued’Amerique; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com noon & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri) For tourist information. Fortourist noon &2.30-6.30pmMon-Fri) 948050; fax039948661;29BlvdPasteur; h Pasteur; 4-7pm Sat&Sun) anyone cancare toremember. Forhalfthe Morocco’s facetotheworldforlonger than More than any othercity, Tangier hasbeen pop 650,000 TANGIER www.lonelyplanet.com the toMoroccan arts. devoted palaceandnowamuseum the formersultan’s h tury the southeastern gate, tofindthe17th-cen- el-Aassa, Bab medina, youenter through city, behindstoutwalls.Coming from the The Sights &Activities ElYousr Pharmacy ONMT postoffice Main Service Emergency Adam Cyber Café Clinique duCroissantRouge BMCE Information thetwo.link between renamed Placedu9Avril 1947)provides the square knownastheGrandSocco(officially west, southandsoutheast.Thelarge, central Nouvelle (NewTown)surroundsittothe to thenortheastof thecity,whileVille Tangier’s smallmedinaclimbsupthehill Orientation andtheculturalvibeinfamous. tan nightlife isvibrant,thepopulationcosmopoli- tlers, you’llfinditalikable, lively place. The take itheadonandlearntohandlethehus- but thecityisnotaltogether hasslefree. Ifyou cracked downonTangier’s legendary hustlers, itall. seen ertine proppeduplanguidlyatabar,having council. TodayTangier islike anageing lib- controlled theportviaadubiousinternational marriage theWestern powers between who 20th century,Tangier washometoashotgun 946976; 6 Rue al-Mansour Dahabi) Dahabi) 946976; 6Rueal-Mansour In thesouthwest cornerof themedina, The 9am-12.30pm & 3-5.30pm Wed-Mon, closed Fri afternoon) 9am-12.30pm &3-5.30pmWed-Mon,closedFri 9.30am-3.30am) Old American Legation Museum Legation Museum Old American (Banque Marocaine du Commerce Extérieur; Blvd duCommerceExtérieur; (BanqueMarocaine kasbah Dar el-Makhzen Dar el-Makhzen (Office National Marocain du Tourisme; duTourisme; NationalMarocain (Office h brigade touristique brigade 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm& 9am-1pm &3-7pmMon-Fri, sits on the highest pointofsits onthehighest the (Blvd Mohammed V) (Blvd MohammedV) (Rue ibnRochd;perhrDh10; (BlvdMohammedV) ( % ( % MEDITERRANEAN COAST &THERIF••Tangier MEDITERRANEAN 039 373737; 039 932097;admissionDh10; (Red CrossClinic; (Red (touristpolice)has h h ( % 24hr) 8.30am- % 039 935317; % 039 039 ,

of Tangier from1890to1960. collection of photographs, posters andprints dan; s/dDh50/100,dwithshowerDh120) charming eccentricity.Roomsare wellsized, Hôtel overlooks Continental theportwitha Something of aTangerine institution,the .net.ma; 36RueDarel-Baroud;s/dwithbreakfast Dh310/396) wake-up callsare guaranteed. Mosquée are picturesque, butearlymorning looking thegreen-tiled roof of theGrande well andkept ingoodorder. Theroomsover- and good-qualityrooms,theMamora isrun dan; s/dfromDh225/255) filled courtyardaddssomecharacter. basic asyou’dexpectfortheprice. Thefoliage- palace you’dhopedfor,roomshere are as courtyard, butafew have views. goodsea Some roomsare aroundacoolinterior set fortheprice. dusty andworn,butserviceable s/d Dh50/100,hotshowersDh10) Pension Victoria MEDINA hustle of Tangier miraculouslymeltaway. ground withitslush gardenscanmake the from thecitycentre, thishillsidecamping Dh10; Dh10, electricity adult/child/tent/car/caravan Dh20/15/20/15/25,hotshowers Miramonte Camping CAMPING Sleeping h admissionfree, donationsappreciated; .ma; 44RueTouahine; de laFondationLorin collection of memorabilia. of theinternational zonewithafascinating h Hôtel Continental Hôtel Hôtel Mamora Mamora Hôtel Pension Palace inaformersynagogue,the Housed

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

10am-1pm &3-5pmMon-Fri) 11am-1pm &3.30-7.30pmSun-Fri) Police Gendarmerie(countrysidepolice) French-speaking police (Casablanca, Fire Ambulance % Rabat, Tangier)Rabat, 177 % % 16 ( 19 % (

% % ( % s 039 931299;22Ave Ahardan; Mokhtar ( ( Withattached bathrooms % % % 039 934105;19Ave Ahar- Mokhtar 15 ( % 039 936128;2Ave Ahar- Mokhtar ) A 2km walk or taxi ride A2kmwalkortaxi 039 930306;[email protected] 039 931024;hcontinental@iam 172 039 937133;campsitesper isanintriguingrelic Thisplaceisabit isanengaging Notquite the Musée Musée 789

MOROCCO MOROCCO ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

MOROCCO ὆὆὆ ὆὆὆ ὆὆὆ ὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆

790

Rue al-Boussiri al-Alhass al-Boussiri Rue

Héritier To Café

Hafa (700m)

Rue Amérique Rue To Camping

Rue d'Angleterre al-Abbar Ibn Rue Miramonte (2km) Ave Mexique Ave Rue du Prince du Rue 6 4 6 1 3 2

CENTRAL TANGIER Hollanda (300m) To Pension du Sud du 23

21 Rue

Rue Bouarraqia Rue Cemetery Christian Cemetery Rue France Place de Souq el-Jarraoui Muslim la Kasbah Rue Sidi

Porte de Tabor Rue Rue de la Liberté COAST &THERIF••CentralTangierMEDITERRANEAN Ahmed Chaouki Héritier Ave duPrince

Bouabib

Ave 25 Escalier ὈὈ ὈὈ

Station Police

Rue Omaribn al-Moutanabi Rue

Waller AC Hassan Paresseux Terrasse des

Place du

Socco Kasbah la de Rue Rue al-Mansour Dahabi Grand Tabor

Blvd Pasteur Blvd

Rue Riad Sultan Riad Rue Rue de la Croix la de Rue Rue Khalid ibn Qualid

KASBAH Rue Moussa ben-Noussair Moussa Rue 27

Covered Market Rue d'Italie Rue 1

Rue Sorolla 24 2

Rue Luccus Rue

Rue Almanzor Rue

Rue Allal ben Abdellah ben Allal Rue Gardens Rue Bouhtouri el- Eddine Salah Sultan's

Rue Zerktouni Rue Rue du Prince Moulay Abdallah

Rue as-Siaghin

Rue ibn Rochd ibn Rue el-Kabtan 8 Ayoubi Jnane Rue ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὄὄ Covered 5 Market ὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇

Rue Anoual 12 11 Rue du Bain du Rue (Rue

Rue el-Jabha el-Ouatania el-Jabha Rue 10 de la Plage) la de MEDINA

Rue Sebou Overlook Scenic Place dela

9 Kasbah Populaire Blvd Blvd B Station (1km) V Mohammed Petit Socco To MainBus Rue du Portugal Bank Cemetery el-Aassa Bab

Jewish Rue des Almoh Ave Bab er-Raha

Rais Souli Rue ben

15 22

Rue Targha Rue 17

Bab Haha

Rue Malmusi Rue

Mokhtar adesTorres M Rue Commerce

Rue al-Moutamid Bnou Abbad Wafabank Rue du

Rue de Marseille

Rue ibn Rue Jemaa ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Rue 16

7 el-Kebir Rue Mai

Ahardan

Magellan 20

ouni Rue Dar Rue Jubair Kammal R 18 Beach

Ave d'Espagne Dbagh 13 Rue Darel-Baroud el-Baroud 14 Marsa Bab el- Dar

Overlook Scenic

19 Ave d'Espagne 28 G ibralt

Rue al-Antaki S traiof Gate Port 200m 0.1miles 0 0 British Consulate...... BMCE (ATM)...... BMCE...... Belgian Consulate...... (see3) CTM BusStation...... Regine's...... Morocco Palace...... Caid’s Bar...... Restaurant LeKasbah...... Fast FoodBrahimAbdelmalik..... Café Andalus...... Agadir...... Africa...... Youth Hostel...... Pension Victoria...... Pension Palace...... Hôtel Mamora...... Hôtel el-Muniria...... Hôtel Continental...... Hôtel Biarritz...... Musée delaFondationLorin...... Dar el-Makhzen...... Pharmacy ElYousr...... ONMT...... Main PostOffice...... French Consulate...... Cyber CaféAdam...... Clinique duCroissantRouge...... TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION l mrcnLgto uem.B3 Old AmericanLegationMuseum.. www.lonelyplanet.com Port D 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 C3 A6 B5 A4 A2 A5 B3 A5 C4 C5 C3 B3 B3 B5 C2 C5 B3 B1 B6 B5 B6 A4 B5 A6 B6 A3 A5 a palace,butnonetheworse forit. brochettes andbowlsof soup.Definitely not tiny placewithcheap plates andtasty of fish, VILLE NOUVELLE Sky great views–scenesinthefilm with bathroomsandTV. Theterrace offers www.lonelyplanet.com Place de France for filling, well-priced meals. Place deFrance forfilling, well-priced meals. In theVille Nouvelle, tryimmediately southof VILLE NOUVELLE simple surroundings. tajines, brochettes, fishingoodportionsand Kasbahlocal dininghall,Le offers soups, set menusDh40-80; Dh25) be wellfed forDh20. to near thestepsExpect atRueDarDbagh. sit Similarstalls tasty. filling andexceedingly hunk of bread of andasqueeze lemon. Quick, andthelikefried sardines a withchips, salad, Grand Soccodoleoutgenerous portionsof cheap hole-in-the-wallplacesoverlooking the andbrochettessandwiches allonoffer. Several chicken, Ahardan,withrotisserie Mokhtar possibilities aroundthePetit SoccoandAve In themedina,there’s ahostof cheap eating MEDINA Eating handy restaurant. tolayyourhead.There’senough abarand (some have balconies);it’smore thancomfy rooms have showers andare nicelyfurnished Dh150/200) the place. viewtoblowsomefreshwith asea airinto rooms are cleanifalittleshabby; get one andKerouacBurroughes here. all stayed The Dh130/150) with sinks;doublescomeashower. has sparklingcleanwhitewashed rooms,all walk fromPlacedeFranc,thisfriendlypension s/d Dh100/150) youth hostel butabittired. iscleanenough toanareaclose withplentyof bars, Tangier’s noon-3pm &6-11pm) without HIcardDh30/40,hotshowersDh5; Youth Hostel Restaurant Le Kasbah LeKasbah Restaurant Andalus Café Biarritz Hôtel Pension Hollanda Hôtel el-Muniria el-Muniria Hôtel were filmedhere. Areal localfavourite, theAndalusisa One for fans of the Beats –Ginsberg, Oneforfansof theBeats This oldplaceholdsitsage well–all Tucked awayinaquietstreet ashort

( % (7 RueduCommerce;saladDh5,mainsfrom ( % h 039 946127; 8 Rue al-Antaki; dmwith/ 039 946127;8Rueal-Antaki; Justoff Ave d’Espagneand ( ( % % 039 932473;102-4Ave d’Espagne;s/d 11am-10pm) MEDITERRANEAN COAST &THERIF••Tangier MEDITERRANEAN 039 935337; 1 Rue Magellan; s/d 039 935337;1RueMagellan; 039 937838; 139 Rue de Hollande; 039 937838;139RuedeHollande; ( % 067 118847;7RueGzenaya; Another decent The Sheltering The Sheltering h 8-10am, from theGrandSocco,Africaisanunpre- lay Abdallah; lay Abdallah; décor andmostlyArabic pop. Dh32-40, setmenuDh48) lamb) and salad toeatonthehoof.lamb) andsalad (Dh120, six hours, four daily) via Rabat (Dh90, (Dh120, six hours, four daily) viaRabat port gate, offers departures for Casablanca The BUS &Away There Getting and to house, toEuropop spin abitof fromRaï everything lar withtrendy youngTangerines, where DJs Dahabi; drinks three timesthenormalbarprice. when cover charges are typicallyDh100,with Tangier’s clubbingscenepeaksinthesummer Clubbing are more thanwelcome. who’ve preceded youadornthewalls.Women gier, andphotosof thefamousandinfamous relic of thegranddaysof international Tan- drinking holeof choice, thisbarisaclassy Dh20; It’s northwestof themedina. enjoy theviewandagameof backgammon. lingers amongthelocalswhohangouthere to came tosmoke hashish,theindolentairstill where Paul BowlesandtheRollingStones a shady terrace overlooking thestraitsand ments. Mostare typicallymaleoriented. gier hasitsfairshare of drinkingestablish- As you’dexpectfromitscolourfulpast,Tan- Drinking tajines above theusualfare. offree use fresh herbsraisingthesucculent bistro. Meals are goodandhearty,withthe background give thisplaceahintof French cloths, red wineandGalliccrooninginthe unassuming,butthecheckedthoroughly table- is served. quicklyandwithoutfuss.Alcohol standards tentious place dishingupgoodMoroccan from Dh35,setmenuDh50; a baguette filledwith wiches Dh15-18) Café Hafa Café Africa Abdelmalik Fast FoodBrahim Good placesinclude Bar Caid’s Agadir h CTM bus station CTM h 10am-midnight) (83 Rue Salah Eddineel-Ayoubi;soupsDh10,mains (83 RueSalah ( % 11.30pm-3am Mon-Sat) h (Ave MohammedTazi; Youcan’tgowronghere withhalf (El-Minzah, 85 Rue de la Liberté; winefrom 85RuedelaLiberté; (El-Minzah, 068 827696;21Ave mains Héritier; duPrince 9pm-4am Mon-Sat) Morocco Palace Theinterior here maybe ( Long the establishment’s Longtheestablishment’s % kefta h 039 931172) Regine’s Regine’s 10am-11pm) , alarge clubpopu- (seasoned minced (seasoned h withtraditional (16 Ave sand- Mexique; (Rue du Prince Mou- (Rue duPrince 10am-8pm) (8 Rue al-Mansour (8 Rueal-Mansour , besidethe Downhill With

791 MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO the euro. Muelle CañoneroDato; Muelle h 6pm Sat&Sun) donations appreciated; de laLegión period inthe16thcentury. Portuguese Foso deSanFelipe 2pm &5-8pm) 511770; Avenida GonzálezTablas; admissionfree; The impressive remnants of the Sights office Tourist postoffice Main Cyber Ceuta % fromoutsideSpain,dial To phoneCeuta Information fascinating Iberian-African mix. are origin, givingtheenclave of a RifBerber aquarter andthirdof thepopulation Between mosphere, isstillrecognisably African. Ceuta city centre withbars, cafésandAndalucianat- clave since1640.Despite itsrelaxed, well-kept aSpanishen- 20-sq-km peninsulahasbeen Jutting outeastintotheMediterranean, this pop 75,000 CEUTA (SEBTA) (1st-/2nd-class Dh274/193). (withcouchettes) toMarrakesh goes service hours) toFès(Dh96,five hours); andanight travels viaMeknèsnoon service (Dh80,four 3kmsoutheastoftrain station thecentre; a 5½ hours) fromTangier Ville,theswish new to Casa-Voyageurs (Dh117, inCasablanca go One morningandoneafternoon service TRAIN hour) fromalotnexttothemainbusstation. Dh30,one minutes) and Fnideq(forCeuta; You canhail TAXI Arabia) Bus Station Cheaper buscompaniesoperate fromthe hours) andChefchaouen (Dh35,three hours). lah (Dh16,onehour),Meknès (Dh80,five daily), Fès(Dh95,sixhours, fourdaily),Asi- 4½ hours), Marrakesh (Dh175,10hours, one 792 h The most intriguing museum isthe The mostintriguing museum 0034. Ceuta is on Spanish time and uses isonSpanish time and uses 0034. Ceuta 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pmSat) 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm &5-10pmMon-Sat,5-11pmSun) , 2kmsouthof thecitycentre. MEDITERRANEAN COAST & THE RIF •• Ceuta (Sebta) COAST &THERIF••Ceuta(Sebta) MEDITERRANEAN

(Gare Routière; (Gare ( andthenavigable, walled % , dedicated to the Spanish Legion, , dedicated totheSpanish Legion, ( % ( % grands taxis 606 733566;Paseo deColón;admission free, (correos ytelégrafos;PlazadeEspaña; 956 512303;Paseo Colón;perhr €2.50; 956 501401;www.ceuta.es; Avenida h remain fromtheHispano- h 10am-1.30pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri, 4- 10am-1.30pm &4-6pmMon-Fri, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) % 039 946928;PlaceJamiael- toAsilah (Dh15,30 city walls h moat of ( % Museo Museo 10am- Main Main 956 Avenida AlcaldeSánchezPrados;mains€5-10; hot communalshowers. rooms here are fresh andcleanwithpiping- surfeit of pictures of Marilyn The Monroe. with potted plants,shiny tiledfloors anda Also goodis Village) besidetheyacht harbour.(Seamen’s burger places,headforthePablado Marinero ties andapopcornmachine inthelobby. with theaddedbonusof on-site laundry facili- r €30; r€30) Revellín; showers andasmall,well-equippedkitchen. Pensión Charitoiscleanandhomy,withhot 1st fl,5CalleArrabal;s/d€15/20) ‘CH’ plaque. identifiable onlybythelarge blue-and-white de huéspedes ishometoplentyof Ceuta Sleeping &Eating amockcastle.and even It’sgreat forkids. scaped pools,waterfalls, bridges, sculptures 8pm &9pm-1am) Park; of theSpanishCivilWar. roleinFranco’sarmyatthebeginning pivotal upin1920thatplayeda an armyunitset ing blue-white hues, red-tiled roofs andan Morocco, Chefchaouen’s charming travellers. Oneof theprettiest in Mountains, Chefchaouen haslong been beneaththestriking peaksof theRifSet pop 45,000 (CHAOUEN) CHEFCHAOUEN to Algeciras (€25,35minutes, hourly). here there ferries are dailyhigh-speed several Cañonero Dato) minutes), justsouthof theborder. departures toFnideq(forTangier, Dh5,10 lot nexttoMoroccanbordercontrolhas la Constitución(€0.60).Thelarge (frontera) Bus 7runsuptotheMoroccanborder &Away There Getting dishes. simple Italian with agoodrange Spanish of and seafood, For restaurants to rangingfromItalian Hostal Real Pensión LaBohemia Pensión Charito The The % a Parque Marítimo del Mediterráneo delMediterráneo Parque Marítimo 956 517742;adult/childhighseason€6/3; estación marítima ) This guesthouse has good, clean rooms hasgood,cleanrooms Thisguesthouse every 10minutes every fromPlazade iswestof thetowncentre andfrom Acharming, spotlesslittleplace ( hasamanufactured beach, land- (guesthouses), someof (guesthouses), which are % La Tasca delPedro 956 511449; fax 956 512166; 1 Calle Real; 956 511449;fax512166;1CalleReal; ( % 956 513982; [email protected]; 956 513982;[email protected]; ( % Lookingalittleaged, (ferry terminal;CalleMuelle www.lonelyplanet.com 956 510615;16Paseo de medina pensiónes ( % hasblind- 956 510473;3 grand taxi h or (Maritime (Maritime h Mon-Fri) Mon-Fri) casas casas 11am-

113917; [email protected]) .com; 12RueZaidaal-Horra;rperpersonDh60) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 1pm &3-6.30pmWed-Mon) the of el-Hammam of themedinaisshady,cobbled unmistakeably Andalucianflavour. Theheart www.lonelyplanet.com soups and salads, tajines and seafood –but tajines and seafood soups and salads, breakfastsidentical –continental (Dh15), el-Hammam.Uta Theirmenusare virtually so café-restaurants onthemainsquare, Plaza Chefchaouen oneof istochoose thedozenor One of themostpopulareatingoptionsin Eating race offers fineviewsover thevalley. rooms invite thefresh airinandtheroof ter- the action,Marrakesh blue hassoul.Bright Dh140/250, withshowerDh200/300) the cake. race withitsgorgeous viewsistheicingon shared facilitiesare spotless). Theroof ter- rooms, somewithprivate bathrooms(the square, Guernikahaswelcoming Hostal ful Spanish coupleandjusteastof themain rwith/withoutshowerfromDh180/140) accommodation. travellers of ratherthanthestandard the the pricepossiblyreflects itspopularitywith budget option,theroomshere are boxy and Bouhali; rperpersonDh75) great roof terrace. there’s lots of hotwater intheshowers anda sparkles. Roomsare andclean bright hooking upwithothertravellers. and comfycourtyardlounge that’sidealfor Rooms are simple,butthere’s aroof terrace have togoalongwaybeattheMouritania. Dh45/70, breakfast Dh15) Mouritania Hotel Sleeping the of Abdeslamvice, contact Mouden,thepresident and canbeeasilyclimbedinoneday.Forad- el-Kelaâ of Chefchaouen’s drawcards,especially Chefchaouen. est Mosquée Pensión La Castellana Pensión La Castellana Hotel Marrakesh Marrakesh Hotel Hostal Guernika Hostal Yasmina Trekking isanother intheRifMountains ethnographic museum kasbah Association des Guides du Tourisme desGuidesduTourisme Association (1616m),which towers over thetown . Insidethekasbah’sgardensisamod- ,

dominated bythered-hued walls

( % ( % ( 039 986343;admissionDh10; % ( % ( % Forbudget value,you’ll 039 986184;15RueQadiAlami;s/d 039 883118;yasmina45@hotmail andthestriking NORTH ATLANTIC NORTH COAST ••Casablanca 039 987434;49CalleIbnAskar; 039 987774;Ave HassanII;s/d . Awell-established ( % with photosof old Set downhillfrom Set 039 986295;4Sidiel- Runbyacheer- Thisplace Plaza Uta Plaza Uta ( h Grande % Jebel Jebel 9am- 062 from the post office, this place does aroaring from thepostoffice, thisplacedoes a delightful spotforaquicklunch,a delightful andthis station arestation inthecitycentre. Casa-Voyageurs Port train and Casa city. The CTM busstation junctionthatmarks theheartof the traffic the medinaisPlace desNationsUnies,alarge of totheport.Tosouthof thecity close The relatively smallmedina sitsinthenorth Orientation II mosque. the enormousandincredibly ornate Hassan modernistlandmark, contrast toCasablanca’s insharpThe city’srundownfaçadesstand buildings andsimmeringsocialproblems. imposing Hispano-Moorish andArtDeco publicparks, racing alongwideboulevards, ing, European-stylecitythat’shometotraffic intomodernMorocco.insight It’sasprawl- a cityof contradictions,offering aunique as Casa, ispopularlyknown, Casablanca pop 3.8million CASABLANCA respectively. country’s politicalandeconomiccapitals the andCasablanca, sprawl aroundRabat frompristinebeachfrontsweeping tourban Atlantic Coast.It’saregion of contrasts, fied townsweave alongMorocco’sblustery fishing villages, historicportsandforti- Miles of peppered glorioussands withsmall ATLANTICNORTH COAST atleastadayinadvance. seat Tangier your (Dh35,three hours). Reserve (Dh60, fourhours) andoneafternoon busto Chefchaouenpassing through enroute toFès CTM &Away There Getting bread tomunch undertheshadyvines. a hamburger oromelette andwarm withsalad snack barfitsthebill.Dahliawillprepare you Dh10) (Dh50) are thehighlights. measure. Tajines platter andahuge seafood trade, attractingworkers andfamilies inequal Dh25; fromDh25. in townandmainsstart the foodisgood,theyhave thebestambience Snack Sandwich Dahlia Snack SandwichDahlia al-Azhar Restaurant Thetinysquare nearHotel Andaluzis ( h % 8am-9pm) 039 988769) Tucked inbythesteps down hastwoafternoon buses

(Ave mainsfrom MoulayDriss; (Rue Jarrazin;lightmeals

793 MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO Hammam Ziani world. Rue Chaouia) spa bath and thetraditional steam roomand a range of treatments and such asmassage, Dh40,Sat&SunDh50; mission Mon-Fri Fri) Oasis; admissionDh20,withguideDh30; of Casablanca gardens southof thecentre, the 11am &2pmSat-Thu) 482886; adult/child/studentDh120/30/60; the mosqueyoumusttake a theinteriorand squares of aroundit.Tosee modates afurther80,000inthecourtyards that holds25,000worshippers andaccom- reclaimed It’savastbuilding fromthesea. aboverises theoceanonarockyoutcrop former king’s60thbirthday.Themosque third largest, builttocommemorate the medina, the Rising above theAtlanticnorthwestof the Sights Syndicat d’Initiative 4.30pm Mon-Fri) ONMT TOURIST INFORMATION Main postoffice Market Central POST Crédit duMaroc BMCE MONEY touni; perhrDh10; Gig@net Dh8; Fairnet ACCESSINTERNET h SOS Médecins d’AideMédicaleUrgente Service EMERGENCY Information airport is30kmsoutheastof thecity. is2kmeastoftrain station thecentre andthe 794 med V; 252525) Private ambulanceservice. 252525) Private Set inabeautifulvillasurroundedbylush Set Sparklingly clean anddecidedlymodern,

is 24hr) Private doctors who make housecalls. whomake doctors 24hr) Private h

the onlyJewish intheIslamic museum post office ( (Hyatt Regency Hotel; (Hyatt Regency h NORTH ATLANTICNORTH COAST ••Casablanca %

8am-11pm) ( % ( % 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat,9am-12.30pmSun) 022 271177;55RueOmarSlaoui; 022 482631; 25 Rue Zair Mers Sultan;perhr 022 482631;25RueZairMers 022 484810;140BlvdMohammedZerk-

( ( % % ( Hassan IIMosque ( % (cnrBlvddeParis &Ave HassanII) h % 022 994940;81RueChasseurJulesGros, . 022 444444;housecallsDh310; 022 319695; 59 Rue Abou Rakrak; ad- 022 319695;59RueAbou Rakrak; 24hr) 022 477255; 48 Blvd Mohammed V) 022 477255;48BlvdMohammedV) ( % h 022 221524;98BlvdMoham- (cnr BlvdMohammedV& 9am-9pm) h (SAMU; guided tour istheworld’s h 7am-10pm) Jewish Museum Museum Jewish h 10am-5pm Mon- h % 9am, 10am, 8.30am- ( 022 % offers offers 022 inwards forarestful sleep. night’s in thecentre of town.Ask foraroomfacing Oued-Dahab hasbig,functionalroomsright but cheap andclean,theextremely friendly clean, spaciousroomswithlarge windows. a fadedcharm. they’re much bigger thanaverage andhave rooms aren’t quite sograndandcanbenoisy, the foyeratthissimplehotel; the although Incredible plasterwork decorationadorns bathroomDh130/160) Jilali; s/dDh80/120,withprivate can benoisy. and Recently upgraded,it’sstillfairlyspartan Dh10) bathroomDh140/240,hotshowers s/d Dh80/120,withprivate and alingering smellof winter damp. here are basicbutwellkept, ceilings withhigh centralloungearound abright area, therooms sheets Dh5; Ahmed el-Bidaoui;dm/d/trwithbreakfast Dh45/120/180, Youth Hostel Sleeping Unies. al-Makhazine, justwestof Placedes Nations plex cinema. Take bus9fromPlaceOued bars, andanewmulti- coffee shops,nightclubs clubs, four-star hotels, upmarket restaurants, beachside well asajuicebar. gommage pastas andpizzas as wellbreakfast.pastas uparange of crêpes, sandwiches, café serves a quietbreak forwomen,this spotless,modern Popular withyoung professionals andoffering el-Fetouaki; mainsDh22-45; openuntilabout2am. stays brochettes (Dh20toDh30) andsandwiches roastchicken, of andrestaurants stalls serving Chaouia opposite thecentralmarket. Theline The bestplaceforaquick,cheap mealisRue Eating Galia. Management isfriendlyandhelpful. matching bedspreads adorntheroomsat and curtains plastic flowers, gold,tasselled Dh150/220/300, withshowerDh170/250/330) vate bathroomDh120/180) 17RueMohamedBelloul;s/dDh100/140,withpri- yahoo.com; Hôtel Galia Hôtel Hôtel Oued-Dahab Hôtel Foucauld Hotel duPalais Hôtel In thetrendy suburbof AinDiab, the La Petite Perle La Petite This basichotel isagoodchoice with h (beingscrubbedbyanattendant) as Blvd delaCorniche Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

( 8-10am &noon-11pm; ( % %

(

( 022 220551;fax227677;6Place %

022 481694;19RueIbnBatouta;s/d/tr % ( %

022 276191;68RueFarhat Hachad; Frayedaroundtheedges 022 272849;17-19Ave Houmane ( % 022 222666;52RueelAraibi h www.lonelyplanet.com 022 223866;oueddahab@ 11.30am-3pm &6-11pm) is linedwithbeach i Tiled floors, ) Clustered

www.lonelyplanet.com Rue de Goulmina de Rue

Blvd de Tiznit Beaches (5.5km); Blvd delaCorniche(3km); To 'AinDiab(3km); Blvd Sidi

4 6 1 Rue Jean Jaures Jean Rue 3 2 5 CASABLANCA ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ

Blvd Ziraoui Mohammed 11 Rue Moussa Fraternité Place dela

ben Nousseir Bordeaux de Blvd AC

(30km); El-Jadida (99km) Blvd d'Anfa

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INFORMATION ydctdIiitv...... C4 Syndicat d'Initiative...... Central MarketPostOffice...... BMCE...... ONMT...... Main PostOffice...... Gig@Net...... French Consulate...... Fairnet...... Crédit duMaroc...... of Casablanca(5km); International Airport

To JewishMuseum

Blvd Blvd

Mohammed V Abdallah Moulay Youssef Moulay

Blvd Brahim Roudani Fayolle Maréchal Blvd ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ NORTH ATLANTIC NORTH COAST ••Casablanca al-Makhazine

Place Oued Blvd Sour Jdid Sour Blvd Ligue Arabe Parc dela A TLNIC

6 Rue d'Alger

Ligue Arabe Ave des Forces Place dela Blvd Tahar el-Alaoui Tahar Blvd O CEAN

Ave Moulay Hassan I Blvd Rachidi Blvd Blvd de Paris de Blvd

Rue Felix 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Stadium B D4 C4 Armées B6 C5 B6 C5 C6 C4 ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ

Rue Max & Market Cemetery Abderrahhman MEDINA British SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Youth Hostel...... Hotel Oued-Dahab...... Hotel Foucauld...... Hôtel duPalais...... Hassan IIMosque...... Hammam Ziani......

Ave Hassan II D5 Hôtel Galia...... Rue d'Agadir Rue Royales

Rue Omar Guedj

Sahraoui Ave Mers Sultan Mers Ave Mohammed V 8 Slaoui (Ave des FAR) d'Artisinat Exposition Nationale 1 Place 7 17 Palais du

Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni Roundabout Mers Sultan Justice Rue

Nations Unies Place des 21 5 Farhat Blvd Ὀ 12

4 Rue Tata

des Rue Mustapha Rue Prince Abdellah Moulay V Mohammed Blvd Port 3

Hachad Almohades

Ave Houmane Ave

Rue Hadj Amar Riffi Amar Hadj Rue Ave Lalla Yacout Lalla Ave Rue Essanoibar 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 20

18 Rue el Araibi 15 C3 C5 C4 C5 A2 D6

25 Jilali el-Maani Rue Sidi Belyout Ziani Hamman Gate Blvd Houphouet Boigny 0.4miles 600m 0 0 Gate

Petits Taxis...... Grands TaxistoRabat&Fès...... CTM BusStation...... La Bodéga...... Café Alba...... Taverne duDauphin...... Snack Amine...... La PetitePerle...... TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING aéMue...... C3 Café Maure...... el-

Rue Allah ben Abdellah ben Allah Rue

Fetouaki

Rue du Captai du Rue

Rue Blvd Rahal el-Meskini Hmad ou Zaid Rue

Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Rue Abdallah Blvd

2 Léon 19 10

Central Market Train Station Casa-Port

ne Beaux ne

Moulay L'Africain 14

20 Août Place du Almedouini

Rue Liberté Rue 22

Abd Rue Strasbourg Rue Blvd Hassan Seghir

23 errah D To SATBusStation Ouled Ziane(4km) 24

Voyageurs Train Station (3.5km);

To Marrakesh mane la Victoire Gare Routière Place de (3km); Casa-

(238km) 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 Rue Strasbourg Rue Paquet

To Rabat Place

Smiha (91km)

C4 D4 D4 D4 C5 C4 D4 C5 Rue Mohammed Rue 795 MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO niche, Phare El-Hank; with astripof discosalongthebeachfront. drinkinganddancing, place forlate-night back butexoticatmosphere. candlelit, littered withpillowsandhasalaid- II Mosque,thisfavourite hangoutis Casa With stunningviewsacrosstotheHassan floor after 10pm. alcohol flows freely. There’s apacked dance Bodegaisloudandlively, andthe finest, La loved byamixed-aged group of Casablanca’s h up-and-coming. place forwatching Casa’s town. It’shassle-free forwomenandagreat the more traditionalsmokyjointsaround distinguish thiscaféfrom and subtlelighting 1am) Alba Café & Clubbing Drinking juices are simply sublime. dishes are alsoavailable, andtheexoticfruit meat although favours andsalads, seafood is atranquilescapefromthecity.Themenu century fortifiedbastion,thislovely restaurant in theochre wallsof the Dh60-90; you smitten and of thesucculentgrilledfish, friedcalamari fruits demer up vencal restaurant serving andbarhasbeen institution,thistraditionalPro- Casablanca phouet Boigny;mainsDh70-90,menuDh110; fish upbigplates of fried simplebuttasty serves bythecentralmarket,rotisseries SnackAmine 45; 796 Taverne duDauphin Café Maure Maure Café Snack Amine La Petite Roche La Petite La Bodéga The beachfront suburbof AïnDiab isthe airport andthecity centre costsDh250.airport terminal building. A from belowtheground floorintheairport leave every hourfrom6amto midnight train (Dh302ndclass,35minutes); they toCasablanca isbyV International Airport The easiestwaytogetfromMohammed INTO TOWN GETTING h 12.30-3pm &7pm-midnight)

in a bright, rathersoullessatmosphere.in abright, crevettes royales High ceilings,swish,modernfurnitureHigh NORTH ATLANTICNORTH COAST ••Rabat noon-2am) h

( % 10am-midnight, to6pminwinter)

( . 022 227154; 59-61 Rue Driss Lahrizi; Lahrizi; 022 227154;59-61RueDriss % ( % (seafood) since1958.Onetaste (seafood) (

% Tucked thechicken between 022 541842; 129 Rue Allah ben Abdellah; benAbdellah; 022 541842;129RueAllah 022 260960;BlvddesAlmohades;mains

022 541331;RueChaouia;mainsDh25- h ( % (royalshrimp) will leave

( grand taxi 12.30-3pm &7pm-midnight) % 022 395748;BlvddelaCor- Hip,happeningand 022 221200;115BlvdHou- sqala, between the h an18th- Nestled Mon-Sat) h 8am- A one hour,11daily)andTangier (Dh120,six (Dh25, (Dh70, fourhours, ninedaily),Rabat Fès (Dh90,five hours, 12daily),Marrakesh hours, three (Dh120,seven Essaouira daily), noon & 3-6.30pm Mon-Fri) noon &3-6.30pm Mon-Fri) Agdal; &RueZalaka, Rue OuedEl Makhazine Expect topayDh10inornearthecitycentre.Expect redCasa’s Around Getting Tangier (Dh117,5¾hours, three daily). daily) viaMeknès (Dh81,3½hours) and hours, ninedaily),Fès(Dh97,4½hours, nine tinations includeMarrakesh (Dh75.50,three which runs downBlvdMohammed V. Des- of thecitycentre. bus30(Dh3.50), Catch Voyageurs trainstation Mohammed Vairportdepartfrom to trainsaswellthose All long-distance TRAIN services. the centre, fornon-CTM isthebusstation Ouled Ziane hours, sixdaily).Themodern Rue LéonL’Africain) The modern BUS &Away There Getting ONMT Main Information Ville, isatthesouthernend. Rabat station, northern endof theavenue, whilethetrain med V. Theentrancetothemedinaisat oughfare, thewide,palm-linedAve Moham- of thehotels liejustoff thecity’smainthor- The mainadministrative buildings andmany Orientation travellers growtolike. diplomatic andhassle-free charm thatmany ministrative buildingsexudeanunhurried, andimposingad- tree-lined boulevards feel of itseconomic bigbrother. Itselegant blanca, butlacksthefranticpaceandgrimy waving asCasa- isascosmopolitan Rabat Relaxed, wellkept andvery European,flag- pop 1.7million RABAT as much againfordrinks. topayatleastDh100admission and Expect

post office ( % 037 673756;[email protected]; cnr

( % petit taxis (cnr Rue Soékarno & Ave Mohammed V) &Ave (cnrRueSoékarno MohammedV) CTM busstation CTM hasdailyCTM departures to 022 444470)

( % are excellentvalue. www.lonelyplanet.com , 4kmsoutheastof 022 243818)

( % Gare Routière Routière Gare 022 541010;23 h , 4kmeast 8.30am- Casa- 260683, fax037260684;3PlagedesOudayas;90minlesson to build the highest minaretto buildthehighest intheworld.At san mostfamouslandmark, Rabat’s s/d Dh80/120, hotshowersDh10) members/nonmembers Dh45/50,hotshowersDh5; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Sights & Activities Sights &Activities Net Zerrad www.lonelyplanet.com but fairlybasicfacilities. bed youthhostel hasplentyof rusticcharacter traditionalcourtyard,this48- around abright, 10.30pm, closed10am-noon&3-6.30pmOct-Apr) tle shade. butlit- basic facilitiesand24-hoursecurity, in Salé,thiswalledcampingground offers hot showersDh10) yr/tent/car/camper Dh15/8/18/15/30,power&waterDh15, delaPlage Camping Sleeping for surfing andbodyboarding. boardDh120/90,insuranceDh50) surfboard/body isthe the lighthouse thekasbahand the modernbuildingbetween h Yacoub &BlvdMoussaibnNassair;admissionDh10; al-Mansour and theMerenid necropolisof site of theancientRomancityof ceiling. lij patternedand isfamedforitsintensely tional Moroccanstyle,liesopposite thetower, V towerismagnificent. intricately carved 44m, itfailed,butthebeautifullydesignedand h the is thegrand17th-centurypalacecontaining Gardens corner of thekasbahishome tothe walls theoldest the OuedBouRegreg withinits andcontains Oudaias The itstillpiquesthesenses. though ina Dating fromthe17thcentury,walled access. Omar, Agdal; perhrDh8; (admission free; Towering above theOuedBouRegreg is (ceramic tilework) mosaics fromfloorto (ceramictilework)mosaics Above thebreakers of theAtlantic coast, (Hassan Tower),a12th-centuryattempt One of Rabat’s mostpeacefulcornersOne of isthe Rabat’s The coolmarble Hôtel Dorhmi Hôtel Youth Hostel isn’tapatch onFès’orMarrakesh’s, al- 9am-5.30pm) to6pmMay-Sep) 9am-noon &3-5pmOct-Apr, Musée desOudaia Musée sits high up on the bluff overlooking uponthebluff sitshigh

( h ( % sunrise-sunset) Acrosstheestuarybybeach south of thecentre. 037 686723;68Blvdal-AmirFal Ould

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h ( % % mosque sunrise-sunset)

037 725769; 43 Rue Marassa; dmHI 037 725769;43RueMarassa; (camp sitesperadult/childunder12 037 723898; 313Ave MohammedV; h

( % NORTH ATLANTIC NORTH COAST ••Rabat Mausoleum ofMohammed Mausoleum Oudayas Surf Club Oudayas Surf 8am-midnight) Internet , whilethecentrepiece in Rabat. Thesouthern inRabat. 037 731537;admissionDh10; Immaculately kept , builtintradi- Chellah LeTourHas- Sala Colonia , aschool Andalucían Centred Centred Kasbah des Kasbah . h (

(cnr Ave %

8am- med- zel- 037

occan dishesare thespecialityatthissmall, pizza and panini. from burgersing everything and brochettes to ofyou’ll findaselection fast-food joints serv- around RueTanta intheVille Nouvelle, where your meal. as musiciansandplaytheoudtoaccompany livens whenthewaiters upatnight double town. It’salittlesombre atlunchtime but (poultry, almondsandspicesinpastry) in culent tajines andoneof thebest modest littleplaceisrenowned foritssuc- Damas; tajinesDh84,pastillaDh66; Friday couscous. make aspecialoutingforthemagnificent or tajines prepared totraditionalrecipes, or fromarangeChoose of wood-fired grills friendly restaurant nearthetrainstation. mains Dh60-90; hearty Moroccanfare. laid-back restaurant hasthelocals lappingup an excellentspotforpeople-watching, this Built intotheoutsideof themedina wallsand II; mainsDh40-70; best onesbythequeueof locals. brochettes, andchips. You’llknowthe salads the-wall jointsdishing outcheap tajines, ina gate where you’llfind aslewof hole-in- is onAve Mohammed Vjustinsidethemed- The bestplaceforquick,cheap foodinRabat Eating &Drinking and canbenoisy. of thecompactroomsoverlook themedina newfurniturewith sleek, andfittings.Some rooms wonderfully modernplacehasbright notaspalatialitsounds,this option, though .ma; 121Ave HassanII;s/dDh239/279) courtyard. aroundapleasant hotel isset bathrooms have ahot-water washbasin. The areBathrooms roomswithout newandeven cheerful colours andsimple woodenfurniture. ceilings,bigwindows, roomswithhigh bright ofthe heart town, thishotel has spacious, bathroomDh128/187) Dh104/159, withprivate courtyard onthe1stfloor. are andtidysurroundacentral bright best of themedinaoptions.Thesimplerooms and very friendly,thisfamily-runhotel isthe Another goodspot forcheap mealsis Tajine waTanja el-Bahia Restaurant Majestic Hôtel Splendid Hôtel Le Petit Beur –DarTajine h h

Mon-Sat)

( ( %

% ( 6am-midnight, to10.30pmwinter) % 037 722997;www.hotelmajestic 037 723283;8RueGhazza;s/d

( 037 729797;9RueBaghdad; Down-to-earthMor- % 037 734504;Ave Hassan

( Anotherexcellent % h 037 731322;8Rue Mon-sat) Right in Right pastillas This 797

MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO services to Casablanca (Dh25,1½hrs, eight toCasablanca services southwest of thecitycentre. CTM hasdaily less chaotic 1am) walls seems tohavewalls seems changed over thecentu- character allof itsown.Little withinthecity the walled,whitewashed city of Saléhasa justacrosstheestuaryfromRabat, Although pop 400,000 Salé AROUND RABAT cost about Dh10. quick. Aridearoundthecentre of townwill blue Rabat’s Around Getting daily). daily) andMarrakesh (Dh101,4½hours, eight daily),Tangiereight (Dh90,4½hours, seven alsorun toFès(Dh72,3½hours, class services (Dh29.50).Second- trainstation Casa-Port 30 minutes6amand10.30pmto between centre of town,fromwhere trainsrunevery trainstation Ville Rabat TRAIN IIbehindtheHôtelsan Bouregreg. leave forSalé(Dh3.50)fromalotoff Ave Has- from justoutsidegare routière. Grands taxis GRANDS TAXIS and Tangier (Dh80,4½hours, five daily). Marrakesh (Dh100,five hours, three daily) daily),daily), Fès(Dh58,3½hours, seven (Dh15,threedaily), Essaouira hours, three The main BUS &Away There Getting onSundays. night and thebeautifulhostsalively karaoke centre of town.It’sahang-outfortheyoung this trendy baroneof thehottest spotsinthe niture butsultrycolours andbright make cards, andisarelaxed venue forwomen. place towhileawaysometimewritingpost- biscuits delivered onsilver trays.It’saneasy the thinghere accompaniedbylittlealmond near theAndalucíanGardens.Minttea is to Saléfromthischilled littleopen-aircafé back, relax andjustgazeoutover theestuary 798 Café Maure Café Le Purple Slick,contemporary style,designerfur- NORTH ATLANTICNORTH COAST ••AroundRabat

gare routière gare ( CTM station CTM %

petit taxis (Kasbah desOudaias; (Kasbah leave (Dh27) forCasablanca 037 733680; 14 Rue Mekka; 037 733680;14RueMekka;

( are plentiful,cheap and

% ( ( % % 037 736060) 037 281488) 037 795816) h 9am-5.30pm) Grands taxis h is inthe are and the 7.30pm-

5km Sit

town butfadingbadly,thefriendlyMarhaba Dh98/126, hotshowersDh5) Portuguese fortificationonPlaceAbdellahPortuguese 7pm) fax 039418396;admissionfree; inthe is housed Muslims) andthe Sidi Mamsur prong offers apeakintothenearby ramparts are largely Thesouthwestern intact. Festival Cultural International lining thenarrowstreets; theyhosttheannual ticated introductiontoMoroccowithgalleries North Atlanticcoast.It’sanintimate, sophis- it afirmfavourite onthetraveller’s trailof the Delightful Asilah’s old-worldcharm hasmade pop 29,518 ASILAH across theriver BouHaja. belowBab the oldwalledcity;youcancatch small thegateMrisa, inthesoutheastern cornerof taxis ash-Shajara.northwest alongRueRas sion Dh10; and thebeautiful14th-century northwest sideof thesquare. The a shortwalktothe Fromhere Khebaz. opens ontoPlaceBab it’s Bou Haja bathroom. but well-kept rooms. Afew have theirown tional, thissmallhotel has rather nondescript d low/highseasonDh100/200) and cleanshared facilities. hotel offers simpleroomsaround acourtyard budget option,thissmallimmaculately kept roof terrace overlooking themedina. has cleanbutwell-wornrooms.There’s anice Jun Dh60/80,Jul&Aug 80/150) most of which are lookingtired. Asilah hasalimited choice of budget hotels, Sleeping live uptoitsname.does dise Beach tohead3kmsouthofadvised Asilah to Guennoun. ries. Themainentrancetothe Hôtel BelleVue Hôtel Sahara Hôtel Marhaba Hôtel The impressive 15th-centuryPortuguese Sun worshippers andbathingbeautiesare A revolving exhibitionof international art andinthe and bus 16 to Rabat leave andbus16toRabat fromBab h , onthesouthwestern wall,which , agorgeous, pristinespotthatreally (which is otherwise closed tonon- closed (which isotherwise 9am-noon &2.30-6pm) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

( (

( Centre deHassanII Centre % % % El-Kamra Tower El-Kamra Mujaheddin Graveyard Mujaheddin 039 417144; Place Zellaka; s/dSep- 039 417144;PlaceZellaka; 039 417185;9RueTarfaya; s/d 039 417747;RueHassan ben Tabit; souqs ByfarAsilah’s best Right inthecentreRight of h Friendlyandfunc- www.lonelyplanet.com (markets) onthe 8.30am-12.30pm &2.30- inJuly/August. are 500mfurther , arenovated Medersa Medersa ( % medina Grand Mosqué 039 417065; Koubba of Grands (admis- . is boats Para- Bab

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com high season Dh100/200) Along the beach north oftown. high seasonDh100/200)Alongthebeachnorth person/tent/car/caravan/camper Dh15/10/10/20/20,rlow/ of town. Dh15,rlow/highseasonDh100/120)Alsonorth electricity person/tent/car/caravan/camper Dh15/10/10/20/20, whitewashed houses andheavywhitewashed oldwooden houses winding streets linedwithcolourfulshops, list in2001.Themellowatmosphere, narrow ina Echrigui Camping ing facilities: the beach northof townwithonlybasicwash- www.lonelyplanet.com Moulay Hassan. musical extravaganza with concertsonPlace over thethirdweekend in June)isafour-day beach. wide sandy along Essaouira’s water-sports equipment andoffers instruction .com; BlvdMohammedV; and offers picturesque viewsover thefishing port Port de laVille easiest placetoaccesstherampartsisat doors make itawonderfulplacetostroll.The attitude andjustsoakuptheatmosphere. and relax toshrug yourguarded off enough It’s thekindof placewhere deeply you’llsigh afirmfavouritesaouira onthetraveller’s trail. and picture-postcard rampartsmake Es- tion, artsyatmosphere, breezes bracingsea The laid-back attitude,stylish accommoda- pop 69,000 ESSAOUIRA half-hour.every toTangierbuses leave andCasablanca roughly (Dh200, ninehours). Cheapernon-CTM Tangier (Dh10,onehour)andMarrakesh (Dh65, 4½hours), Meknès (Dh55,3½hours), (Dh60,3½hours),4½ hours) Fès viaRabat (Dh70, toCasablanca CTM hasservices &Away There Getting Mohammed V. Ahmed M’demandnearthebanksonPlace There are afew othercheap optionsonRue tered Kasbah aroundBab andAve Hassan II. Asilah hasawidechoice of restaurants clus- Eating as-Saada Camping There are anumberof campgroundsalong The Fun Afrika Magic Essaouira’s walled,late-18th-centuryEssaouira’s wasaddedtoUnesco’sWorldHeritage

Île deMogador (adult/child Dh10/3; Gnawa and World Music Festival Gnawa andWorldMusic . Downbytheharbour, ( ( % (

% % . 039 417182;campsitesper h 039 417317;campsitesper NORTH ATLANTIC NORTH COAST ••Essaouira 024 473856;www.magicfunafrika h 9am-6pm Mar-Dec) 8.30am-noon &2.30-6pm) Skala du Skala (held rents Skala Skala med- three sandwich stands sell excellentbaguettes three sell stands sandwich Doukkala.Bab On PlaceMoulayHassan, ben Abdallah, Ave andjustinside Zerktouni in-the-wall places alongAve SidiMohammed and waitforittobecooked onthespot. a price(expecttopayabout Dh40forlunch) outside each grill,agreefish andseafood on want toeatfromthecolourfuldisplays of fresh of Place MoulayHassan. whatyou Justchoose the outdoorfishgrillsthatline portend One of bestfoodexperiencesis Essaouira’s Eating rooms offer incredible valueformoney. touches andsplashesof blueoryellow,these ple withbrilliantwhite linen,minimalistlocal anddecorativelight flourishes.Elegantlysim- tiled floors to12charming roomsbathedin ning centralcourtyardwithstonearches and This gorgeous littleplaceopensfromastun- .com, inFrench; 228RueChbanate;s/dinclbreakfast Dh340/440) of character. throwsoncast-ironbedsandbucketsbright riot of colourwithpink,green andbluewalls, isa GrandLarge internal garden) intown,Le riads simple whitewash andmuted colours of many s/d/tDh290/390/490) Oum-Rabia; .com; 2Re incredible bargain atthisprice. roof terrace isanothertreat. Allinallit’san getyou even aTV. Breakfast onthestunning character, andifyou’re in, planninganight great bathrooms give theroomssomelocal Shuttered windows,colourfulbedspreads and are simpleenough, though immaculately kept. much more expensive, andthebedrooms, diately make youfeel like you’re somewhere tricklinginthecourtyardimme- and fountain isarevelation.Nakhla Thestonecolumns ingrottyhotels,countless theRiad nights For budget travellers whohave endured 2RueAgadir; s/dDh200/300) .essaouiranet.com/riad-nakhla; meals shared aroundacommunaltable. oftenpromptu session follows theevening Moroccan owners are musiciansandanim- bathrooms andafunkyvibe. TheAussie- hassimple,spotlessroomswithsharedhouse Dh200-300) d Oct-May Dh300-400, Dh150/100,dJun-Sep sJun-Sep/Oct-May Magdoul; Dar Afram Sleeping Le GrandLarge o There are plentyof andhole- snackstands Émeraude Riad (traditional townhouse set aroundan set (traditionaltownhouse

( % Riad Nakhla Riad 024 785657;www.dar-afram.com;10RueSidi (

Thisextremely friendlyguest-

% ( % 024 472866;www.riadlegrandlarge 024 473494;www.essaouirahotel

( % /fax 024474940;www After the 799

MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO meals Dh30; souq the beating heartof thecityand greatest Djemaa el-Fnaand thearea aroundremains confirm. Andsome thingshave remained –the of thecity’s 16km-long,time-wornramparts and itswits. and worktoacitythatlives off itslooks has transformedtheplace,bringing money heart of themedina. Thishappyexchange peans arrived dreaming of inthe oldhouses Moroccans craved modern housing,Euro- the south,Marrakesh remains exotic;justas fast. Oncethehubof camel caravans from Moroccan tourism, Marrakesh ischanging of thesouthandepicentreCapital of pop 1,091,540 MARRAKESH your time. part of Moroccowhere youspendmostof the clamourof Marrakesh, thiscouldbethe in thecountry.WhethergrandoldFèsor lays astrongclaimtobeingthemostdiverse historic citiesandholyshrines, thisregion From green to hillsandwoodedmountains IMPERIAL CITIES Bookinadvance.trains toCasablanca. (Dh60, 2½hours, fourdaily)toconnectwith toMarrakeshsidiary, runsbuses trainstation (Dh50, 2½hours). (Dh110, sixhours) andonetoMarrakesh dailyforCasablancaCTM hastwobuses (Dh6) ifyou’re arriving/leaving late atnight. during thedaybutyou’re better ina northeast of themedina. It’saneasy walk The &Away There Getting withthree salads. tangy served oury tarts pared-back littleplaceoffers achoice of sav- cellent choice healthymeal,this foralight, Fatouaki; lunchsetmenuDh60; pastas. Italian upbowlsof steaming lar placethatserves spot forlunch isthistinybutincredibly popu- foraroundDh15. thing else andjustabout any- withmeat,salad stuffed 800 Supratours The looksare stillthere, asthefirst glimpse Chez Françoise Mareblú in the south. inthesouth. bus station IMPERIAL CITIES •• Marrakesh IMPERIAL CITIES••Marrakesh h ( %

9am-3pm, closedWed) ( % 067 646438; 2 rue Sidi Ali Ben Abdellah; 067 646438;2rueSidiAliBenAbdellah;

(

( % % 024 475317) 024 784764) 086 164087;1RueHommaneel- h ,

the ONCFsub- closed Sun) isabout400m Another great Anex- petit taxi

Yougoslavie &RueIbnAicha,Guéliz; & 3-6.45pmMon-Sat) Pharmacie del’Unité Pharmacie MEDICAL SERVICES Hassan Cyber Park ACCESSINTERNET touristique Brigade Ambulance EMERGENCY Information the mainthoroughfare, Ave Mohammed V. and shops,plusafew hotels, are clustered near where thebulkof restaurants, offices, cafés The mainarea of theVilleNouvelle isGuéliz, Fna, themainsquare intheoldcity’sheart. centre of theVilleNouvelle toDjemaael- It takes about30minutes towalkfromthe Orientation for oneof theworld’s greatest Al- spectacles. a huge square in themedinaand the backdrop The focalpointof Marrakesh is Sights noon &3-6pmSat) Guéliz; ONMT TOURIST INFORMATION Post Office PostOffice Main POST Crédit duMaroc MONEY Polyclinique duSud 8pm) Mimoun; bre; Unies, Guéliz; Mon-Fri) Aconvenient branch officeinthemedina. Mon-Fri) expats. clinicusedbymanyresident Apopular,private service) Moukha; perhrDh8; Moukha; 11 runsirregularly toDjemaael-Fna. cost nomore thanDh60.Alternatively, bus A INTOTOWN GETTING h petit taxi h ( ( % 8.30am-2pm Mon-Sat)IntheVilleNouvelle. h % 8.30am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 8.30am-noon &2.30-6.30pmMon-Fri, (Ave MohammedV;perhrDh5; 024 436131;PlaceAbdelMoumenbenAli, (RuedeBabAgnaou; ( 24hr) h 024 441989;ImmeubleTazi, el 12RueRiad % from the airport (6km)should fromtheairport 8.30am-11pm) (RuedeBabAgnaou; 024 443724) ( % h ( ( % ( % 024 431963;Placedu16Novem- 7am-1am) % 024 447999;cnrRuede 024 384601;RueSidi 024 435982;Ave desNations www.lonelyplanet.com h h 8am-noon &3-6pm h 24hr emergency Djemaa el-Fna 8.45am-1pm h 9.30am- , stunning examplesof stuccodecoration. a peacefulandmeditative placewithsome nearby el-Badi. nearby el-Badi. is theperfect antidote tothesimplicity of the Sat-Thu, 8.30-11.30am&3-5.45pm Fri) el-Jedid; admissionDh10; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com mosques insidethemedinais12th- mouth-watering aromas.Jugglers, storytellers, smokingtheimmediatefood stalls area with uponrowsof goes open-air when thecurtain Djemaa el-Fnacomesintoitsownatdusk itcanbelivelythough atanyhourof theday, www.lonelyplanet.com from the hubbubof the Moroccan city,offering the perfect escape are theresting placesof Saadianprinces. Kasbah Mosque,ishometoornate tombsthat Dh10; the of The to give animpression of theformersplendour. over scale bystorknests,andthestaggering that isleftare thetoweringpiséwallstaken the mostbeautifulpalacesinworld.All the ‘Incomparable’,oncereputed tobeoneof Ferblantiers; admissionDh10; palaces, thenow-ruined bah Dar Mnebhi. in abeautifullyrestored 19th-centurypalace, ersa benYoussef&KoubbaDh60; Med- Youssef; admissionDh40,combinedtoMusée, ( Dh60; Marrakech de Koubba&Musée Dh40, combinedadmissiontoMedersa, Medersa mosque isthe14th-century religious heart of themedina. Nexttothe Muslims), which markstheintellectual and century architecture. a classicexampleof Moroccan-Andalucian Mosque most venerated monument,the minaret of Marrakesh’s mostfamousand southwest of Djemaael-Fnaisthe70m-tall spectators. remaining space,each surroundedbyjostling acrobat andbenignlunaticsconsumethe snake charmers, musicians,theoccasional % Long hiddenfromintrusive eyes,thearea Marrakesh hasmore Inaugurated in1997,the of theThe largest andoldest-surviving Dominating theMarrakshi landscape South of themainmedinaarea isthe , hometothemostfamousof thecity’s 024 390911; www.museedemarrakech.ma; Placeben 024 390911;www.museedemarrakech.ma; Palais delaBahia h . Visibleformilesinalldirections, it’s Saadian Tombs

8.30-11.45am &2.30-5.45pm) Ali benYoussefMosque ( % 024 441893;PlacebenYoussef;admission h 9am-6pm winter,9am-7pmsummer) h

( % IMPERIALCITIES••Marrakesh

(Rue de la Kasbah; admission (Rue delaKasbah; h 8.30-11.45am &2.30-5.45pm gardens 024 389564; Rue Riad Zitoun 024 389564;RueRiad h 8.30am-noon &2.30-6pm) Palais el-Badi souqs 9am-7pm) Musée deMarrakesh Musée , the‘Brilliant’, (closed tonon- (closed , Ali benYoussef

thananyother alongside the andthe traf- is housed ishoused Koutoubia (Place des

kas- , ,

-assia-marrakech.com; 33 Rue de la Recette; s/d/t/qB&B 33RuedelaRecette; -assia-marrakech.com; Dh270/420; s/d 30RuedelaRecette; .ilove-marrakesh/hotelgallia; rooms decorated inMoroccan style. a case, grandmarblestair-with tinklingfountain, around anelegantcentralcourtyard complete wonderfully restored 19th-century s/d/q Dh290/380/520) Zitounel-Qedim; mogador.com; 116Riad DerbSidiBouloukat, an addedbonus. work. Superbviewsfromtheroof terrace are tional stylewith are decorated intradi- bathrooms andTV, rooms,with and thesmallbutcomfortable door totheGallia,are friendlyandhelpful, Dh250/360/550/650; strongly recommended here aswell. areon aparwiththeHôtel Gallia;reservations couple,it’s by afriendlyMoroccan-German of traditional stylewithasea located butvery quiet,this vate bathroomDh260-610,mini-aptdDh460) bathroomDh210-510,dwithpri- Dh160/210, swithprivate Zitounel-Qedim;s/d sherazade.com; 3DerbDjamaa,Riad of themedina. Fillsupreally quickly. roof terrace hasgreat viewsover therooftops arrayed aroundacourtyardfullof plants.The hotel with10simplebutvery well-kept rooms s/d Dh120/160) facilities have better days. definitely seen courtyard.Thecommunal an unspectacular mostroomsopenonto front rooms,though views fromtheroof andfromthe(noisy) onthesquare,things, right withunbeatable of aninstitution,thishotel isinthethickof Dh68/104/158, withbathroomDh100/150/200) HI card. the actionof your themedina. You’llneed itisquiet,it’salongwayfrom though even kitchen, but there’s an11.30pmcurfew and youth hostel isspotlessly cleanandboastsa dminclbreakfast Dh60,hotshowersDh6) dustriel; Youth Hostel Sleeping el-Fna. in particularoffer coolrespite nearDjemaa gardensoffic. Therose KoutoubiaMosque Hôtel Gallia Hôtel Jnane MogadorHôtel Assia Hôtel Riad Sherazade Hôtel Souria Hôtel CTM Hôtel hammam a

A popularandcharming budget (

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The JnaneMogadorisa 024 445913;fax044444853; www ( 024 426757; 17 Rue de la Recette; 024 426757;17RuedelaRecette;

% ) The staff atthis The staff ( % ( /fax 044429305;www.hotel tiling andlocalwood- % 024 391285;www.hotel 024 426323;www.jnane riad zellij isdecorated in Something tiling. Run Centrally Centrally riad, riad

This built next 801 MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO 802 Agadir (303km) To Essaouira(197km);

MARRAKESH

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INFORMATION SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Saadian Tombs...... Palais delaBahia...... ONMT...... oieSain...... F4 Police Station...... Ali benYoussefMedersa...... Pharmacie del'unité...... Main PostOffice...... Hassan...... Crédit duMaroc(ATM)...... Credit duMaroc...... Brigade Touristique...... Palais el-Badi...... Musée deMarrakesh...... Koutoubia Mosque...... Djemma el-Fna...... Ali benYoussefMosque...... Post Office...... Polyclinique duSud...... Police Station...... Cyber Park......

IMPERIAL CITIES •• Marrakesh IMPERIAL CITIES••Marrakesh

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To To MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO few trendy notcharge placesthatdoes the thisisoneof the andbeautifulstaff, night contemporary décor,goodmusicalldayand set menusDh80-120; tender.delectably with prunes,itwillarrive steaming hotand lemonchickenyou choose witholives orlamb on Djemaael-Fnaisalwayscrowded.Whether the bestincity,thislittlerestaurant right its excellenttajines, considered bymanytobe ads Dh10-15,mainsDh35-50; You’ll eatwellforunderDh40. the At lunchtime, isavailable much thesame in goats’headsandsteamingand salads, snail. withfreshDjemaa el-Fna,piledhigh meats remainstown intheevening on thefoodstalls The cheapest andmostexoticplaceto eat in Eating ‘lounge’ crowd. terrace, thislaid-back attractstheyoung house palms andexoticplantsagroovy roof andblood-reddetails carpets.Withlotsof painted itallinwhite, coloured withbrightly and atcoolprices.TheFrench owners have as holidays; Christmas d B&BDh300-600,uptoDh900during -nejmalounge.com; 45DerbSidiM’hamedel-Haj,BabDoukkala; months inadvance. ifnot tobook(byfaxonly)weeks you’ll need The breakfast isexcellent.Notsurprisingly, and theentire placeisscrubbedcleandaily. ant roomssurroundtwolovely courtyards Frenchsame familysince1929.The20pleas- runbythe near theDjemaael-Fnahasbeen 804 Riad NejmaLounge Riad Chez Chegrouni Kechmara Kechmara Dh900/1200; Soussi, Zaouia;s/ Sidi BenSlimane,SidiAhmed 97 DerbSemmaria, Riad O2 SPLURGE pool orsteam awayinthe day inthemedinayoucanrelax inthesmall almost monasticsimplicity.After ahectic all inthislarge traditionally decorated bathrooms. tional Moroccanstyle, andallcomewith in afusionofmodern Western andtradi- bedrooms are equallypleasant, decorated qissaria IMPERIAL CITIES •• Marrakesh IMPERIAL CITIES••Marrakesh ) This isoneof thecoolest

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www.riad . The intown The all-you-can-eat buffet attracts hungryThe all-you-can-eatbuffet who has her own reality-TV cookery show, who hasherownreality-TV Drinking Drinking other travellers. for vegetarians. Thisisagreat placetomeet includinglotsoffruit anddesserts, options travellers whobinge oncouscous,salads, from Dh60,buffet guests/nonguestsDh60/70; outside.peas andlambbroth),withtables and Moroccan salads Medersa, Yousef ingrills, the Ben specialises meals Dh25-40; specialities. wood-oven baked pizzasandsomeMarrakshi withterrace.taurant She loves fish,aswell res-runs thisvery Italian-Moroccan pleasant h pizzasfromDh50,mainsDh100-150; Hivernage; hada Chawki, tajines. lunchtime speedy stew, Dh90). Italsoserves (Dh85 toDh90)and to trysomelocaldelicaciessuch as Fna’s frenzied chaos, Argana isagoodplace el-Fna; setmenusDh90-140) food. world forexcellentMoroccan-Mediterranean Café Arabeis perfect drink ora for asunset Café room-restaurant inalarge Medina; kesh’s largest of selections wines. on thecitywalls.Italsohasoneof Marra- overlooks themedina andthestorksnesting and,bestofsalon all,thegorgeous terrace floor isapianobar,the1stMoroccan within one Kosybar combinesthree different venues 47 PlacedesFerblantiers, Medina; particularly ifyouare notalone. ket bars, are however, OKforwomentogoto, male-oriented places.Thenew,trendy upmar- bars inMarrakesh are mostlydire beer- and ing treat. of forathirst-quenching, thenight refresh- areThe juicestands openalldayandmuch freshly orange squeezed juiceisonlyDh3. onDjemaael-Fna,wherecious drinkisright The numberonespotforacheap and deli- Café Arabe Café Kosybar Ali Hôtel Chez Abdelhay Argana Café-Restaurant Alizia As elsewhere inMorocco,thetraditional noon-2.30pm &7-11pm; h ( % 10am-midnight; ( ( % % riad 024 438360/076516295;RueAhmedChou- h ( % 024 444979;RueMoulayIsmail;setmenus 024 380324;http://kozibar.tripod.com; ( 8am-8pm) % neartheMellah. Theground 024 429728;184Rueel-Mouassine, 071 157821;46Rueel-Baroudiyenne; Overlooking Djemaael- Overlooking a harira This great eatery, near a ( tanzhiya % www.lonelyplanet.com h ) ) Madame Rachida, 024 445350;1&2Djemaa Another bar-tea- riad noon-1am; (soupof chick- inthemedina, (Marrakeshi h a pastilla dinner) ) The

and-roll. Arabic andgoodold-fashioned rock- Latin, suming atmosphere. Themusicisamixof Marrakesh foritsraucous crowdandunas- www.pachamarrakech.com; Complexe Pachawww.pachamarrakech.com; Marrakech, mands great medinaviews. intimate inside,whiletheterrace salons com- Moroccan, withalarge courtyardandmore mealwithabeer.light Thedécorisfunky www.lonelyplanet.com Office three hours). Tickets atthe canbe bought hours, three (Dh60, daily)andEssaouira (Dh80,four hours, onedaily), Casablanca 8½ hours, onedaily), Ouarzazate (Dh70,four % six hours, atleastthree daily). at leastsixdaily)andMeknès (fromDh110, runtoFès(Dh120,8½hours, el-Fna. Services ridefromDjemaa Dh5toDh10taxi roughly just outsidethecitywalls,a20-minute walk or The BUS &Away There Getting music ispredominantly Arab. Dh150; ( andthedarkexotic salsa; tracks, techno beats,1980snewwave and groovy mixof contemporary Arab dance admissionDh100; Hivernage; Room bar; club/salsa hugely popularLatin Ibn Aicha;admissionfree withdrink; famous DJs; superclub southof themedinathatboasts 10pmDh150,Sat&SunDh300; after Blvd MohammedVI;admissionbefore 10pmfree Mon-Fri, going tillafter or1am. midnight smartly, andremember mostplacesdon’tget drinkthereafterEach costsatleastDh50.Dress from Dh150toDh300,includingthefirst drink. a newzoneoutsidethecity.Admission ranges the hottest clubsare intheVilleNouvelle orin fast becomingoneof itsattractions.Mostof Marrakesh nolonger andnightlife is sleeps, Clubbing munchies. (Dh40 toDh50)are available ifyouget the arecocktails) reasonably priced,andtapas 1am; % Bodega CTM include: Highlights 024 434402) 024 447051;HôtelAtlas,101Ave deFrance;admission mainbusstation a

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( (beers) and % IMPERIALCITIES••AroundMarrakesh where the crowdand h 024 433933; Bab Doukkala) 024 433933;BabDoukkala) Pacha ( 10pm-dawn) % 024 439031;20Rue h h ( % mojitos 8pm-2am) 8pm-5am) , foravery 024 388405; Atlas-Asni h (rum White White 7pm- , a CTM , a . is

expe.ma; Marrakesh) senses. Itsnarrow windingalleys andcoveredsenses. first onthe visit,which cantruly beanassault world. Nothingquite prepares youforyour largest cityinthe livingIslamic medieval The medinaof (OldFès)istheFès el-Bali pop 1million FÈS Expédition Sahara Maroc Trekking Nature Marrakesh) -trek.com; Trek Sahara Atlas offer trekking tours Atlas: intheHigh northern plains. theSaharaand and pilgrimsbetween once undoubtedly carriedtradecaravans muletrails–someofby well-used which flourish below.Theentire area iscrisscrossed gated, terraced gardens andwalnutgroves whileirri- aciously tothemountainsides, Their flat-roofed, earthenvillages clingten- inhabited bytheAtlasBerbers. long been transport. Marrakesh bypublic andiseasilyaccessed of Atlas.It’s only twohours theHigh from peaks, andisthemostfrequently visited area The Toubkalregion allthehighest contains 4000m andmore than400above 3000m. Theretains). than are summits higher several called Idraren Draren of (Mountains Moun- it’s ofdistance almost 1000km.InBerber of Agadir allthewaytonorthernAlgeria, a Morocco, fromtheAtlanticcoastnortheast rica, the Atlas,runsdiagonallyacrossHigh range mountain inNorthAf- The highest AROUND MARRAKESH Dh5andDh15perjourney. cost between The creamy-beige Around Getting to Tangier (Dh188). hours) trains andnightly knès (Dh154,seven hours, daily)viaMe-Fès (Dh171,eight eight (Dh101,fourhours),hours, ninedaily),Rabat (2nd-class rapideDh76,threeto Casablanca others; Dh3)fromthecentre. There are trains (3,8,10and14,among orcitybuses take ataxi .oncf.org.ma; cnrAve HassanII&BlvdMohammedVI,Guéliz) For the TRAIN www.maroctrekking.com; Marrakesh) Marrakesh) www.maroctrekking.com; Numerous foreign andMoroccanoperators wildandharsh,Although thearea has train station ( ( % % petits taxis (

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, MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO 6.30pm Mon-Thu, 8.30-11.30am&3-6.30pmFri) 654370; PlacedelaRésistance; Ville Nouvelle in Dhar Mehraz. Ville NouvelleinDharMehraz. festival circuit. favouriteestablished onthe‘worldmusic’ corners of theglobe, andhasbecomean together musicgroups andartistsfromall Music Every Junethe Festivals &Events ployment forcesmanytopersist. tion of a The situationhasimproved withtheintroduc- notoriousfor its Fès haslongbeen Dangers &Annoyances Office Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION Post office postoffice Main POST Société Générale MONEY Night Pharmacy Hôpital Ghassani MEDICAL SERVICES Teleboutique CyberClub h London Cyber ACCESSINTERNET Information French, tothesouthwest. elle, theadministrative area constructed bythe Royal Palace) inthecentre; andtheVilleNouv- the (containing (the core of themedina)ineast;Fèsel-Jdid Fès isneatlydividedintothree parts:Fèsel-Bali Orientation and smells. ariotof sounds dye pitsandtanneries, sights, workshops, mosques,medersas andextensive bazaars are crammedwithshops, restaurants, 806 V; perhrDh7; 8.45am-noon Sat)ImmediatelyoutsideBabBouJeloud. h Mohammed V) Mohammed V) Ville Nouvelle; staffed by a doctor andpharmacist. Ville Nouvelle;staffed byadoctor Moulay Youssef; 10am-10pm) 8.45am-noon &2.45-6pmMon-Thu, 8.45-11amFri, ( IMPERIAL CITIES••Fès % brigade touristique, brigade 055 740535;www.fesfestival.com) (Map (Map p807 ; Placedel’Istiqlal)Inthemedina. h h Mp p809; (Map (Map (Map p807 ; Ave perhrDh10; delaLiberté; 9am-11pm) Mp p809; (Map (Map (Map p809 ; cnrAve HassanII&Blvd (Map (Map p807 ; Ave desFrançais; ( 9pm-6am) Located in the north ofthe 9pm-6am) Locatedinthenorth mellah, % Fès Festival ofWorldSacred 055 622777)Locatedeastofthe % (Map (Map p809 ; BlvdMohammed orJewish quarter, and h % 055 623460;fax 8.30am-noon &2.30- 055 623493;Blvd but high unem- buthigh faux guides brings . the traditionalpatterns of Merenid artisan- heart. Builtin859byrefugees fromTunisia, Arts & Crafts; &Crafts; Arts and viewsfromtheroof are alsoimpressive. are amazingly elaborate, and woodcarving Merenids. The Fès’ theologicalcolleges constructed bythe chants. Photos are forbidden. funduq Inania. as eleganttheartistryof theMedersa Bou at thetopof bit thewallsanda ceilingevery ship, witha admission Dh10; of themedina, sion Dh10; 14th-century Kebira andPlaceas-Seffarine. endless columnsfromthegates alongTalaa ofhave withglimpses itsseemingly tosuffice non-Muslims are forbiddentoenter, you’ll commodate upto20,000peopleatprayer. As and rebuilt inthe12thcentury,itcanac- the lies aroundthenextcorner. charm: quite younever knowwhatdiscovery butthereintainty, liespartof themedina’s ing andgetting lostatsomestage isacer- and hidden incredible mazeof twistingalleys,blindturns Within theoldwallsof liesan Fès el-Bali FÈS EL-BALI (OLDFÈS) Sights Palace; PlacedesAlaouites) The entrance to FÈS EL-JDID (NEWFÈS) district. will guideyouintotheheartof theleather the unmistakeable waftof skinanddyethat left forkafter about50m;you’llsoonpickup andtake the northeast of Placeas-Seffarine (andsmells).Headcity’s mosticonicsights arts andcrafts. excellent collectionof traditionalMoroccan Dh10; the Dh20; p807; (Map Founded byAbu Saidin1325theheart The In acentury-oldHispano-Moorish palace, The Located 150meastof BouJeloud, Bab the ofIf Fèsisthespiritualcapital Morocco, Dar Batha Museum Dar BathaMuseum Kairaouine Mosque Kairaouine h h –acaravanserai fortravelling mer- tanneries Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts &Crafts ofWooden Arts Museum Nejjarine 8.30am-noon &2.30-6pmWed-Mon) 10am-5pm) h % % 8am-5pm) zellij souqs 035 740580; Place an-Nejjarine; admission 035 740580;Placean-Nejjarine; h 035 634116;Placedel’Istiqlal;admission Medersa BouInania Medersa zellij, (Map p807 ) 8.30am-1pm &2.30-5pm) isinawonderfullyrestored base, stuccoworkandcedar base, Dar el-Makhzen Dar el-Makhzen . Navigation canbeconfus- Medersa el-Attarine Medersa is said tobethefinestof issaid (Map (Map p807 ofMoroccan ; Museum

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www.lonelyplanet.com ὇὇὇὇὇὇ 0 500 m FÈS ὇὇὇὇὇὇ 0 0.3 miles To Chefchaouen A B C D 12 E (225km); F Tetouan (281km) ὇὇὇὇὇὇25 Route du Tour de Fès 5 ὇὇὇὇὇὇ 1 Bab Guissa Kasbah des ὈὈὈὈ To Meknès (60km); Cherarda Bab el- 24 Rabat (196km) ὇὇὇὇ IMPERIALCITIES••Fès Mahrouk ὇὇὇὇ 20 Cemetery 14 al-Kebir Bab Segma Route Principale Talaa Zawiyya ὇὇὇὇ 21 15 At- No 1 Moulay 4 Idriss II 13 22 Talaa al-Kebir ὇὇὇὇ 11 10 man Place Bab Bou 18 an-Nejjarine 16 Talaa as-Seghir Talaa Seghira Fès Jeloud ὈὈὈὈSulei ὈὈὈὈ9 17 2 Place Medersa Oued Bab Dekkaken See Enlargement as-Seffarine as-Seffarine MEDINA 3 Bou (FÈS EL-BALI) FÈS Jeloud 1 Gardens 6 Place EL-JDID 19 de l'Istiqlal 0 100 m Bab Riafer Andalus Mosque 0 0.1 miles & Medersa 7 ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈSharia Moulay ὈὈ Bab Smarine oui Bab 2 Place el-Hadid Liberté ὇὇὇὇὇὇ des Rue des MérinidesMELLAH med el-Ala 3 Alaouites Ibn Danan ham 8 Synagogue Bab ὇὇὇὇ Ave de la Mo ὇὇὇὇὇὇el-Ftouh See Fès Ville NouvelleJewish Map Cemetery Cemetery

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Route Principale To Taza (120km); SLEEPING὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇Oujda (343km) Ave de la Liberté INFORMATION Jewish Cemetery & Habarim Dar Bouânania...... 15 C2 London Cyber...... 1 C2 Synagogue...... 8 A3 Hôtel ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇Cascade...... 16 F2 Post Office...... 2 A3 Kairaouine Hôtel Erraha...... 17 F2 ENTERTAINMENT Post Office...... 3 F2 Mosque...... 9 E2 Hôtel Lamrani...... 18 F2 Son et Lumière de Fès... 23 D4 23 ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ 4 Société Générale...... 4 F2 Medersa Bou Inania...... 10 F2 Pension Batha...... 19 C2 Medersa el-Attarine...... 11 E2 ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇TRANSPORT ὈὈὈὈὈὈSIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Merenid Tombs...... 12 D1 EATING Grands Taxis to Meknès & Borj Nord...... 5 C1 Nejjarine Museum of Wooden B'sara Stalls...... 20 E1 Rabat...... (see 24)

Dar Batha Museum...... 6 F2 Arts & Crafts...... 13 D2 Medina὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ Café...... 21 C2 Main Bus Station...... 24 C1 807 Dar el-Makhzen...... 7 A3 Tanneries...... 14 E1 Restaurant὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ des Jeunes....22 F2 Petits Taxis...... 25 E1 ὈὈὈὈὈὈ MOROCCO MOROCCO r Dh150-200) there’s aniceroof terrace. nature gives itafriendly atmosphere, and cluster of simple,decent rooms.Itsfamily-run thin building,toreachclimbing inthistall a yat; s/dinclbreakfast Dh110/145) mopping. the shared amore facilitiescoulduse frequent daysit’sprettythese battered andgrubby, roof terraces views.Thatsaid, withunbeatable Morocco, noted foritscentrallocationand er’s favourite aslongwe’ve visiting been jine; s/dDh60/120) reflect thepricetag. price bracket, theshared bathroomfacilities and aroof terrace. As withmanyplacesinthis Bou Jeloud, thischeapie haslarge airyrooms s/dDh50/80,hotshowersDh10) Jeloud; the local and coldshowers have might youexploring Bou Jeloud They’re inFèsel-Bali. pretty basic, Many of theultracheapies cluster aroundBab EL-BALI FÈS Sleeping able nottohangaroundafter dark. calls echo it’sadvis- roundthevalley,although comeonandthemuezzins’prayer the lights and wellworththeclimb.It’sbestatduskas decoration. Theviewsover Fèsare spectacular littleremainsalthough of theirfineoriginal are of dramaticintheiradvancedstate ruin, p807). (Map panoramas of thecity,headup to provide ahintof colour. Foroneof thebest green-tiled roofs of themosquesandmedersas flecked Onlyhere sandstone. andthere dothe bled buildingsmerge intoapalette of white- Viewed fromthesurroundinghills,Fès’jum- TOMBS BORJ NORDFORTRESS&MERENID welcomed; Synagogue Habarim is hometothefascinating Jewish quarter. The a refuge forJews, thuscreating a palace groundsare notopentothepublic. of modernrestoration, butthe80hectares of 808 In the14thcentury,Fèsel-Jdidbecame Hôtel Lamrani Hôtel Pension Batha Cascade Hôtel Erraha Hôtel Further up,the IMPERIAL CITIES••Fès h hammams Another place withagreat location, 7am-7pm) This place has been abackpack- Thisplacehasbeen Mp p807; (Map Mp p807; (Map (Map p807; (Map Mp p807; (Map (Map (Map p807 ; admissionfree, donations

Merenid tombs Merenid . . mellah’s % % You’ll doalotof stair % % 035 638442;26RueSerra- 035 634411; Talaa Seghira; 035 741150;8SidiLkha- 035 633226;PlaceBou southwestcorner Just outside Bab JustoutsideBab Jewish Cemetery & Cemetery Jewish Mp p807) (Map mellah Borj Nord , or

place just off theactiononMohammedplace justoff V, [email protected]; 9 Rue Abdelkarim el-Khattabi; s/d el-Khattabi; [email protected]; 9RueAbdelkarim and facilities(includingWestern-style toilets) the centre of theVilleNouvelle. Tidy rooms the Fèsbranch iswellcared in for,andright one of thebetter youthhostels inMorocco, dmDh45; Serghini; YouthHostel VILLE NOUVELLE terrace. rooms over floors andasmallroof several ofcourtyard, aseries nicelydecorated bed- withalovelyroccan house, Talaa Kebira, it’svery much atraditionalMo- appearance onthescene. Well-signedoff modation, sothisnewhotel makes awelcome long lacked any Salem; s/dDh200/250,withshowerDh250/300) so grumpy,thiswouldbefantastic. hot showers. Ifonlythemanagement weren’t Rooms are large andbathroomsare cleanwith just awayfromthehustleof BouJeloud. Bab the most popularplacesto eatinthemedina, BouJeloud justinside Bab stands are among The cheap-and-cheerful restaurants andsnack MEDINA Eating (the breakfasts are excellentvalue). better are theinvitingpool,barandrestaurant andbathroom. Even modern amenities,TV this placehaslarge, roomswith comfortable Dh282/337; lot of stairs. buildingwithanawful top floor–it’satall shared. Just make sure you’re notputonthe Rooms comewithhotshowers, buttoiletsare hascompactandfresh rooms. the Lamdaghri 10 RueAbbaseEl-Msaadi;s/dDh150/190) that youshouldlookto non-HI members. Coldshowers meanthat are superclean. There’s aDh5surcharge for Hôtel Splendid Hôtel Lamdaghri Hôtel Dar Bouânania fare ofDh120. half-hour orso. (Dh3, 25minutes), every withdepartures andthetrainstationtween theairport There’s (bus16)be- aregular busservice INTOTOWN GETTING as Mp p809; (Map Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com h Astep upinpriceandquality, ) Mp p807; (Map 8-10am, noon-3pm&6-10pm) riad Grands taxis Mp p809; (Map % Mp p809; (Map -style budget accom- 035 624085;18RueAbdeslam www.lonelyplanet.com hammams % 035 637282;21Derbbe zellij have aset Agreat-value % % andstucco 035 622148; 035 620310; . Fèshas Easily Easily soups Dh3) sampling thisFassisampling speciality. the passingcavalcade. especially astheyprovide towatch primeseats www.lonelyplanet.com favourites are intheAcherbine area. Look themedina–our the-wall placesthroughout outof hole-in- bean andgarlicsoup)isserved Rabat (196km) To Meknès(60km); 4 1 3 2 5 FÈS VILLENOUVELLE ὈὈ Ave Moulay Kamel B’sara Stalls

Rue de Damas Ave des Almohades La Médaille...... Al-Khozama...... Youth Hostel...... Hôtel Lamdaghri...... Tourist Office...... Teleboutique CyberClub...... Police...... Night Pharmacy...... Main PostOffice...... French Consulate...... EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION ôe pedd...... B5 Hôtel Splendid......

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11 Rue Loukili Rue Municipal mains Dh25-30,setmenuDh35; for exploringthecity. the many popular hang-outs close toBab the manypopularhang-outsclose oil andahunkof bread, bowls. Deliciouswithanextradashof olive great pottery ladlefuls intorough guy serving for thebigcauldronsfacingstreet, anda 7 17 16 15 14 13 12 10 Stade 2 4 BMCI Restaurant des Jeunes desJeunes Restaurant C3 C3 A3 C4 B3

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809 MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO here foryears) andthemenureliable, tasty isfriendly(themaître d’hasbeen service looklikeThis placedoesn’t much, butthe set menuDh60,sandwichesDh15-20; the influence onthemenu. Try for theSephardic dinner) mains Dh70-90,setmenusDh110-150; Kaghat; surroundings. gine andpeppers. Deliciousfood inlovely tajine withappleandolive, or lambwithauber- its strength, offering such delights aschicken back. Butthemenu’svarietycontinues tobe furniture, withacushion-strewn atthe salon to itscharm – red plastered wallsanddark recenttaurant’s makeover hasaddedhugely mains fromDh55) 11 RueOmarel-Mokhtar; decent portions. and comesin the menu,butfood’stasty place forwomen.There are on nosurprises V istheindoorterracequiet –acomfortable, draw tothisrestaurant nearPlaceMohammed andbread. withsalad watch andserved whichvarious sausages, isgrilledwhileyou ofa goodselection meat,includingliver and little placeispopularwiththelocalsandhas meals aroundDh30; –rareoutside seating intheVilleNouvelle. from tajines topizza,withthebonusof some and inexpensive. Allsortsof food isonoffer, Soussi;setmenuDh52; 5 RueMoukhtar sandwich placesaroundPlaceFlorence. around thecentralmarket. You’llalso find BlvdMohammedon orjustoff V,especially In theVilleNouvelle there are afew cheap eats VILLE NOUVELLE plates of couscousare fortwo. bigenough figs andapricotsisareal winner,whilethe fare ison offer –thelambtajine withdried thebestofjuice; intheevening Moroccan it’s agoodplaceforquickbite orafruit tional yetrestrained manner. Duringtheday is anoasisof serenity, decorated inatradi- BouJeloud,outside Bab thissmallrestaurant menusDh70-110; nissi, BabBouJeloud; andthelike.sandwiches It’s basic,cheap andquick,withbrochettes, Bou Jeloud, thisisnexttotheHôtel Cascade. 810 Restaurant LeChamonix Restaurant La Médaille Restaurant Marrakech Restaurant Al-Khozama Bajelloul Restaurant Médina Café saucisse merguez ThisFrench-Moroccan placeisunique IMPERIAL CITIES •• Meknès IMPERIAL CITIES••Meknès Mp p809; (Map (Map (Map p809 ; 23Ave Mohammedes-Slaoui; (Map p807 ; p807; (Map h noon-midnight) (Map (Map p809 ; RueArabieSaoudite; % (lamb sausage) or the (lambsausage)

% Mp p809; (Map (Map p809 ; p809; (Map 055 620183;24RueLaarbi al- 035 633430;6DerbMer- h h Thissimple 7am-11pm) h % % 8am-10pm) Thisres- h 10am-10pm) 035 930876; 035 626638; closed Sun The Just

Mahrouk. % from near the train station. from nearthetrainstation. el-Mahrouk) (outsideBab bus station and (Dh55)leaveRabat frominfrontof themain around town.Taxis forMeknès (Dh14)and There are several TAXI station departfromthe Non-CTM buses Chefchaouen (DH60,fourhours, three daily). Tangier (Dh80,sixhours, three daily)and Marrakesh (Dh150,ninehours, twodaily), hours), Meknès (Dh18, onehour,sixdaily), (Dh60,3½ five daily)viaRabat hours, seven (Dh90, toCasablanca CTM runsservices Place AtlasinthesouthernVilleNouvelle. e h T BUS &Away There Getting minutes. show recounts 12centuriesof historyin45 &Nov) Apr,Sep Aug; 7.15pmMar, deFès Son etLumière Entertainment laid-back and lesshassle,but still awashwith than itsgrand neighbour, Fès,it’salso more worth getting to know. Quieter andsmaller looked ontouristitineraries, but Meknès is Morocco’s thirdimperial cityisoften over- pop 680,000 MEKNÈS BouJeloud.Bab to about Dh10fromthetrainorCTM station their meters topay withoutanyfuss. Expect Drivers of thered Around Getting (Dh96, five hours). toTangier hours)(Dh71, eight andonegoes overnight trains.Five trainsgotoMarrakesh Meknès (Dh17,one hour),plusthere are two (Dh72,3½hours)4¼ hours), and viaRabat (Dh97, 7amand5pmtoCasablanca between Place Florence. twohours Trains departevery Nouvelle, a10-minute walknorthwestof The TRAIN find themanywhere else. saucisse defoie 035 763652;BorjSud;admissionDh100; train station CTM busstation CTM Mp p807 ; (Map % ( % (liver –youwon’t sausage) 035 636032) grand taxi (Map (Map petits taxis 035 930333)

( % This sound-and-light This sound-and-light p807 ; www.lonelyplanet.com 035 732992) outside Bab el- outsideBab Sound &LightsofFès; isintheVille ranksdotted generally use generally use h 9.30pm May- isnear main bus 3-6pm) that distinguishes Merenid monuments. Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Dh17/12/10/17/17/20, hot showers Dh7, electricity Dh15) Dh17/12/10/17/17/20, hotshowersDh7,electricity camp sitesperadult/child/tent/car/caravan/camper this isabudget gem. Friendlyandquiet, north of themainsquare, Placeel-Hedim, of theMoroccansultanate. grand buildingsbefittingaone-timecapital all thewinding,narrowmedinastreets and www.lonelyplanet.com Ghana; s/dDh176/220) agement are helpful. and roof terrace with panoramicviews.Man- character togoaround,plusapeaceful patio mix of rooms(allhave sinks)andplentyof Nouvelle, carriesherage well. There’s agood in the1930s,thisgrandoldlady, theVille V; s/dB&BDh136/178,withbathroomDh214/241) to theambience. terrace andorange tree–filled courtyard add the shared bathroomsare clean.Thegreat rooms (withsinks)are freshly painted, and Dh60/120) tel membership cardismandatory. fairly simplebathroomfacilities.AYouthHos- There’s asmallcafé,communalkitchen and dorms clustered aroundashadycourtyard. hot showersDh5; small shop,caféandrestaurant. facilitiesandashady site, well-maintained ing groundhasagreat location,anattractive Barely 50m fromHeri es-Souani,thiscamp- d’Agdal International Camping Sleeping Bou Inania ina, opposite theGrandMosque, h museum the is the1882palacethathouses Meknès inthe17thcentury. hiscapital & 2-6pmSat-Thu) Ismail you’llfindthegrand right, el-Mansour gateways inallofmonumental Morocco, oneofopens upthrough themostimpressive To thesouth,MoulayIsmail’s with the Aug) Hôtel Palace Hôtel Majestic Hôtel Hôtel Maroc Youth Hostel Overlooking Placeel-HedimOverlooking tothenorth The heartof Meknès’ medinaliestothe 9am-noon &3-6.30pmWed-Mon) Inaquietresidential area, thehostel has istypicalof theexquisite interior design (admission free, donationswelcome; ( Despite theinauspiciousexterior % mellah

(Rue Najjarine; admissionDh10; (Rue Najjarine; . Followingtheroadaroundto 055 530863; Place el-Hedim; admission Dh10; 055 530863;Placeel-Hedim;admissionDh10; , named for the sultan whomade , namedforthesultan h ( % ( ( % % (Jewish quarter) tothewest. 8am-10pm Sep-Jun, 8am-midnightJul& ( Looking very dour from the Looking very dour fromthe % /fax 035 524698; dm incl breakfast Dh50, /fax 035524698;dminclbreakfast Dh50, 035 400468; fax 055 401431; 11 Rue 035 400468; fax055401431;11Rue 035 530075;7RueRouamzine;s/d 035 522035;19Ave Mohammed IMPERIALCITIES••Meknès . Deeper inthemed- . Deeper Mausoleum ofMoulay Mausoleum ( % h h imperial city imperial 035 551828; 8.30am-noon 9am-noon & 9am-noon & Dar Jamaï Dar Jamaï Medersa Medersa Built Bab

Dh20; setting, onthesquaresetting, withitsgreen vines,is trail isonthesquare nearthemedersa. The round trips toVolubilis. Français – thisisalsothe placetoorganise minutes) leave fromopposite theInstitut Grands taxis (Dh40,90minutes).one hour)andRabat There are regular departures toFès(Dh18, el-Khemis. at Bab next tothebusstation daily). daily) andTangier (Dh80,five hours, three 2½ hours), Marrakesh hours, (Dh135,eight (Dh45, (Dh75, fourhours, sixdaily)viaRabat medina. CTM departures include:Casablanca tothewest of el-Khemis, outside Bab the Mohammed V. liesjust Themainbusstation about 300meastof thejunctionwithAve The &Away There Getting with delicious three-course menu,butit’sareal set winner, giving diners awarmwelcome. There’s justa just off themaindragof Meknès’ medina, formal restaurant isinsideafamilyhome, Rouamzine; setmenuDh65; from Dh10.Superb. patties) willfillyouupandstillgive change harira girls. Foodischeap –abowlof andtasty from lunchtime workers togangsof school- canteen thanrestaurant, itpacksineveryone should bethisplace’sproudmotto. More a Dh25; andfinaglingwithshop owners.haggling half theattraction–achilled respite fromthe h generous handfulsof salad. range of grilledmeatfillings,alltoppedwith people-watching onthesquare. There’s awide which caneasilystretch into anafternoon of Place el-Hedim isidealforalunchtime snack, The cluster of Eating sofas give anextraoptionforchilling out. bathrooms, manywithbalcony.Themezzanine good value,withlarge, airyroomswithattached several tajines.several street, thishotel turnsouttobesurprisingly Restaurant Oumnia Restaurant Restaurant Marhaba Snack Bounana The principal 11am-10pm) h CTM busstation CTM h andaplateful of 7am-10pm) noon-9pm) Apopularpitstoponthe forMoulayIdriss (Dh10,20 sandwich stands harira, onthenorthwestcornerof ‘Never beaten ‘Never onprice’ grand taxi (Rue Najjarine; mealsDh40-45; (Rue Najjarine; ( % ( (23 Ave MohammedV;tajines % salads andachoice salads of h 035 522585;Ave desFAR) makoda 035 533938; 8 Ain Fouki 035 533938;8AinFouki 7am-10pm) rankisadirtlot

(sandwiches around (fried potato (friedpotato This in- souq 811 is

MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO travellers peaksof forthehighest head straight wide array of trekking opportunities. Most rangesMorocco’s many mountain offer a Trekking surfing. for ( p797) ( p799 ) forwindsurfingandaroundRabat arespots. Highlights thebeaches inEssaouira coastline, Moroccohassomegreat surfing ofWith thousands kilometres of Atlantic &Windsurfing Surfing extra Dh15orso. usually costsDh10,withamassage costingan town hasatleastonepublic hot water athome(orintheirhotel). Every whodon’thavea practicalsolutionforthose a ritualatthecentre of Moroccansocietyand Visiting a Hammams ACTIVITIES especially insummer. mended forallplaceslisted inthischapter, (alltaxes included). quoted is TTC alwayscheckand includetax; thepriceyouare listed inthischapter are season forthehigh facilities unless Theprices otherwise. stated are, therefore, forroomswithshared bathroom thischapter shower facilities.Pricesthroughout and hotels you’llberequired toshare toiletand that rivalthemforprice. Inmostbudget hostels thantheunclassifiedmedinahotels comfortable and Tangier. Hostels are usuallysafer andmore Chefchaouen, Fès,Marrakesh, Meknès, Rabat (auberges dejeunesses) most Moroccancities,whileyouthhostels facilitiesareCamping available aroundornear ACCOMMODATION MOROCCO DIRECTORY day outingwillcostaroundDh300. to hire a and quickest waytoget here fromMeknès is about 4.5kmfromVolubilis.Thesimplest pilgrimagetant sites, Morocco. Oneof thecountry’smostimpor- largest Romanruinsin andbest-preserved Dh5,guidedtoursDh120; parking north of Meknès, In themidstof afertile plainabout 33km AROUND MEKNÈS 812 Advance reservations are recom- highly Advance reservations MOROCCO DIRECTORY ••Accommodation MOROCCO DIRECTORY grand taxi hammam Volubilis forthereturn trip.Ahalf- (traditional bathhouse) is (traditionalbathhouse) operate in Casablanca, operate inCasablanca, Moulay Idriss

(Ouailili; admissionDh20, h hammam 8am-sunset) , isonly . Avisit is the closed longeratnoononFri) 6 Ave deMarrakesh) hotels oronarticlessoldtoyouinthe interest isthecommissiongainedfromcertain Bou Jeloud inFès.Rememberthattheirmain tions, especiallyatTangier portandnearBab the entrancestomedinasandoutsidetrainsta- still findplentyof toutshangingaround these eliminated theproblemof and/or ahuge fine. Thishasreduced butnot erating asanunofficialguidefacesjailtime guides) andhustlers. Anyoneconvicted of op- down onMorocco’snotorious prison conditions. Morocco isnotagoodplacetoinvestigate butdrugbustsareMountains, commonand Plenty of fine islongpast. Morocco’s eraasahippyparadise DANGERS &ANNOYANCES offices Tourist Shops Restaurants Cafés BUSINESS HOURS and autumnare thebesttimesfortrekking. treks Spring start theRifMountains. through of Imlil.Chefchaouen ( p793 ) istheplaceto Marrakesh ( p805 ) orfromthenearby village Atlas–treksthe High canbeorganised from Belgium All of thefollowing are inRabat: inMorocco Embassies &Consulates .maec.gov.ma. and foreign embassiesinMorocco,gotowww ofFor details allMoroccanembassiesabroad EMBASSIES &CONSULATES walking aroundaloneatnight. dressingcontact, modestlyandrefraining from selves agreat dealof griefbyavoiding eye amazingly effective. Womenwillsave them- to gothepoliceor suitor isparticularlypersistent, threatening to ignore thisattention. Where awould-be dangerous. It’sbesttoavoid overreacting and and otherunwanted attention, butit’srarely comes intheformof nonstopgreetings, leering norm forwomentravellers inMorocco. It Mon-Thu set upintheprincipaltouristcentres set toclamp A few years agothe A certain level of sexual harassment is the of level harassment isthe A certain sexual

h ( 7am-11pm % 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-8pm Mon-Sat (often 9am-12.30pm &2.30-8pmMon-Sat(often

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h noon-3pm &7-11pm kif 8.30am-12.30pm &2.30-6.30pm (dope)isgrownintheRif brigade touristique brigade www.lonelyplanet.com brigade touristique brigade faux guides faux guides souqs . You’ll . You’ll was was (false (false . is is .ottawa.on.ca; 38 Range Rd, Ottawa, Ontario KIN8J4) Ontario Rd,Ottawa, .ottawa.on.ca; 38Range .org.ma; 7RueThamiLamdaouar,SoussiI) el-Azhar) 2 RueIdriss .ma; 7RueMadnine) as-Sadiq, Agdal) 1601 21stStNW,Washington,DC20009) Sydney, NSW2060) Tour Hassan) 5-4-30 Miami Aoyama Minat 107–0062,Tokyo) AoyamaMinat 5-4-30 Miami Balafrej Souissi) .org) EveryJune/July. 49 Queen’s Gate Gardens, LondonSW75NE) Gardens, 49 Queen’sGate 3 Rue Sahnoun, Agdal) 3 RueSahnoun, Germany France Canada www.lonelyplanet.com Labour Day Independence Manifesto New Year’s Day on themainpublic holidays,including: and mostshopsAll banks,postoffices are shut HOLIDAYS II Moussem ofMoulayIdriss Festival Cultural International Festival Music ofWorldSacred Festival Gnawa &WorldMusic Festival ofFolklore some drawbigcrowds. all over the yearand thecountrythroughout cans. Local Religious festivals are significantforMoroc- FESTIVALS &EVENTS USA UK Japan Canada Australia Abroad Moroccan Embassies&Consulates USA UK Spain Netherlands Mauritania Japan Italy www.festival-gnaoua.co.ma) Takes placeinJune. Marrakesh) Marrakesh) in French) HeldinJune. Khalouiya, RoutedesZaerskm5.300,Souissi) Khalouiya, Rue deTunis) ( Major festivals: ( ( % % ( % % ( ( % ( ( ( % % % 037 238600; www.britain.org.ma; 17Blvddela 037 238600;www.britain.org.ma; 020-7581 5001;[email protected]; % ( ( % % 037 762265;www.usembassy.ma;2Ave de 202-462 7979;[email protected]; ( ( 037 706598;[email protected]; % % 037 633900;[email protected]; RueAin 03-3478 3271; www.morocco-emba.jp; 03-3478 3271;www.morocco-emba.jp; 037 631782;fax750078;39Ave Ahmed ( 1May 037 689700; www.ambafrance-ma.org; 037 689700;www.ambafrance-ma.org; 613-236 7391;www.ambassade-maroc 037 687400;fax687430;13RueJaafar ( % % moussems 02-9922 4999; Suite 2, 11 West St, North 02-9922 4999;Suite2,11WestSt,North 037 709662;www.amballemagne-rabat 1January 037 656678;ambassadeur@mauritanie 037 219600;[email protected]; 40 (Marrakesh; www.maghrebarts.ma, www.maghrebarts.ma, (Marrakesh; MOROCCO DIRECTORY ••Festivals &Events MOROCCO DIRECTORY 11January (saints days)are (saints held (Fès)September/October. (Essaouira; (Fès;www.fezfestival (Asilah) July/August. (Asilah) media events inMorocco.media events coverageoftheatre, film,music,festivals and the-minute the ProphetMohammed. things shutdownforfourorfivedays. user-friendly, withguidedtours,linksandnews. user-friendly, informationsite; /index_en.php) Morocco’sofficialtourist current affairs,newsandgoodbooksaboutMorocco. Al-Babhasexcellentlinks,especiallyfor can Gateway, warrant a tip, and a few dirham for a service warrant a tip,andafew dirham foraservice can Moroccan life. Practically anyservice Tipping andbargaining are integral partsof Tipping quoted inbanksandare notusuallyaccepted. dollars are andNewZealand not Canadian accepted forexchange by banks.Australian, mas Cooktravellers cheques are alsowidely andTho- Amex,Visa Moroccan businesses. often attracts asurcharge of around5% from in themaintouristcentres, theiruse although cards. Major credit cardsare widelyaccepted Electron,Cirrus,Maestro Card, andInterBank Master- andmanyacceptVisa, common sight Melilla theeuro. use it.TheSpanishenclaves and to use of Ceuta not much of ablackmarket andlittlereason which isdivided into100centimes.There’s The Moroccancurrency isthedirham(Dh), MONEY inMorocco Tourism Arts Maghreb Al-Bab bulletin board,where youcanpostquestions. .com) hasup-to-date newsandtheThornTree The LonelyPlanetwebsite (www.lonelyplanet RESOURCES INTERNET an-Nabi(Mouloud) Mawlid Aïd al-Fitr Aïd al-Adha vals, alltiedtothelunarcalendar,including: national andlocalIslamicholidaysfesti- holidaysthereIn additiontosecular are many Independence Day March oftheGreen Anniversary Young People’s Day Revolution andPeople’s oftheKing’s Anniversary ofOued-Eddahab Allegiance Feast oftheThrone four or five days, during which Morocco grinds toahalt. whichMoroccogrinds four orfivedays,during Thefestivities bymostMuslims. last fast, whichisobserved ATMs ATMs (www.al-bab.com/maroc)AlsocalledTheMoroc- Held at the end of the month-long Ramadan Held attheendofmonth-longRamadan (guichets automatiques) 20August Marks theendofIslamicyear.Marks Most (www.maghrebarts.ma, inFrench) Up-to- (www.maghrebarts.ma, 18November (www.tourism-in-morocco.com 21August 30July Celebrates the birthday of Celebrates thebirthday 14August 6November are nowa

813 MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake calling overseas fromMorocco,dial three-digit area code(orGSM code). When uire anine-digit number,which includesthe lage corner. onalmostevery which townandvil- canbefoundinevery common are privately run oftenoffices, butmore nexttothepostoffice, A few citiesandtownsstillhave publicphone TELEPHONE boxes.parcel officessell unwrapped forcustomsinspection.Some of thepostoffice building.Take yourparcel ‘colis postaux’, isquicker.Casablanca or postfromRabat North America. Sending orsotogetand twoweeks toAustraliaand ters toget totheirEuropeandestinations, terribly forlet- fast.Ittakes aboutaweek main citycentres. scatterednewspaper kiosksyousee aboutthe at buy stamps Poste’ logo.sign orthe‘La Youcansometimes arePost offices distinguished bythe‘PTT’ POST restaurant billisappropriate. easier. Tipping 5%and10%of between a willingly rendered canmake yourlife alot 814 The parcel office, indicatedThe parceloffice, bythesign All domesticphonecallsinMoroccoreq- system isfairlyreliable,The postal butnot MOROCCO DIRECTORY ••Post MOROCCO DIRECTORY isgenerally part inaseparate tabacs, thesmalltobacco and téléboutiques, % 00,

works, Méditel andMaroc Telecom, which as mainlandSpain. and Melilla have requirements visa thesame an extension. TheSpanishenclaves of Ceuta police headquarters (Préfecture dePolice)for itispossibletoapplyatthenearestsufficient, bein- origin. Should 90-daystay thestandard insist thatyouget fromyourcountryof avisa bwe. Moroccanembassieshave knownto been nationals of Israel,SouthAfricaandZimba- tothisinclude 90 daysonentry.Exceptions and are allowedtoremain inthecountryfor Most visitors toMoroccodonotrequire visas VISAS ‘Turkish toilets’). of theAsian-style squatvariety(referred toas and very often clip.Toiletsare anose mostly attendant (Dh2toDh3),stout-soledshoes own paper rare tobringyour andyouwillusuallyneed Outside themajor cities,publictoiletsare TOILETS withthecodes start /morocco.php. Moroccanmobilenumbers ers, clickonwww.cellular-news.com/coverage the mobilecoverage forMorocco’stwocarri- now cover 85%of thepopulation.Foramapof number. Morocco’scountrycodeis the countrycodeandthencity Morocco hastwoGSM mobile phonenet- (papier hygiénique), % 061 to www.lonelyplanet.com % atipforthe 068. % 212. www.lonelyplanet.com

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