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Ferrate a Cortina Francesco Cappellari 1 collana sentierid’autore 1 Ferrate a Cortina Francesco Cappellari ITALIANO ENGLISH DEUTSCH Francesco Cappellari Best in the Alps! a Cortina Alles für Dein Klettererlebnis. Tutto per la tua avventura d’arrampicata. 20 Sportler Filialen in Italien und Österreich. Ferrate Finden Sie die Filiale in Ihrer Nähe auf www.sportler.com 20 punti vendita in Italia e Austria. Trova il tuo piú vicino su www.sportler.com ¤ 19,50 Passo Cimabanche CARBONIN CIMABANCHE FANES Prefazione / Preface / Vorwort 6 DI 17 V. Col Rosà 20 Vecio del 22 Introduzione / Introduction / Einleitung 10 S 16 18 Forame MISURINA ZE N Informazioni generali / General Information / Allgemeine Informationen 14 3 A Punta Fiames 21 N M. Cristallo M. Castello E Pomagagnon V FIAMES 10 regole e consigli / 10 rules and advice / 10 Regeln und Tipps 22 A Tofana R 19 T di Dentro Scala delle difficoltà / Grading System / Schwierigkeitsgrade 24 M. Cavallo . V 15 14 Sicurezza / Safety / Sicherheit 28 Grande T. Fanes Tofana di Mezzo CORTINA Passo 8 Tre Croci Lagazuoi 13 D’AMPEZZO Soccorso / Rescue / Rettung 32 5 4 12 Piccolo Tofana Punti di appoggio / Rifugios / Stützpunkte 36 Lagazuoi 9 di Rozes 11 23 M. Faloria 6 Col dei Bos 10 001 NUVOLAU - Ferrata Ra Gusela (I 1) 47 7 Punta 002 AVERAU - Ferrata dell’Averau (I 2) 55 Passo Nera Falzarego 24 003 MONTE CASTELLO - Ferrata della Furcia Rossa e Sent. della Pace (III,3) 61 Cinque Torri Sorapiss Croda 004 CIMA FANIS SUD - Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli (III 4+) 69 Averau 2 Marcora Due parole con Ugo Pompanin 76 Nuvolao ANDRAZ 1 005 CIME FANIS SUD E DI MEZZO - Cengia Veronesi (III 2) 85 Passo Croda Giau Da Lago 006 PICCOLO LAGAZUOI - Sentiero Kaiserjäger e Galleria del Lagazuoi (I 1) 93 007 COL DEI BOS - Ferrata degli Alpini (II 3) 103 M. Cernera Due parole con Paolo Michielli Strobel 108 SAN VITO DI CADORE SELVA DI CADORE 008 GIRO DELLA TOFANA DI ROZES - Scala del Meneghel (II 2) 111 009 TOFANA DI ROZES - Ferrata Giovanni Lipella (III 4) 117 Due parole con Lorenzo Lorenzi 126 Prima edizione: giugno 2011 CON IL PATROCINIO DI 010 TOFANA DI ROZES - La Grotta di Tofana (I 1) 135 ISBN: 978-88-97299-02-8 011 TOFANA DI MEZZO - Sentiero Astaldi (II 1) 141 Idea Montagna Editoria e Alpinismo 012 PUNTA ANNA - Ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri (II 4) 147 Sede: Via S. Antonio, 23 - 35037 Teolo (PD) Redazione: Via Guido Rossa, 17 - 35016 Piazzola sul Brenta (PD) - Tel. 049 9601797 COMUNE DI CORTINA D’AMPEZZO 013 TOFANA DI MEZZO - Sent. Olivieri, Ferrate Aglio e Tofana di Mezzo (III 4+) 155 [email protected] - www.ideamontagna.it 014 TOFANA DI DENTRO - Ferrata del Formenton (II 2) 163 CON LA PARTECIPAZIONE DI Coordinamento generale: Francesco Cappellari 015 GRAN TOUR DELLE TOFANE (III 4+) 169 Progetto grafico: Rossella Benetollo - Officina Creativa - Padova Impaginazione, elaborazione immagini: Irene Cappellari 016 COL ROSÀ - Ferrata Ettore Bovero (II 4) 175 017 VAL DI FANES - Sent. dei canyon e delle cascate della Val di Fanes (I 2) 181 Traduzione inglese: Lynne Hempton 018 PUNTA FIAMES - Ferrata Strobel (II 3) 187 Traduzione tedesco: Barbara Humer e Karin Pizzinini PARTNER Stampa: Litocenter srl per conto di Idea Montagna Editoria e Alpinismo 019 PUNTA ERBING - Terza Cengia del Pomagagnon, Ferrata Zumeles (II 2+) 193 Foto di copertina: sulla Ferrata Sci Club 18 al Monte Faloria (foto Giuliano Bressan) 020 FORAME DE INZE - Ferrata René De Pol (III 2) 201 Tutti i diritti riservati. È vietata la riproduzione anche parziale degli scritti, dei disegni e delle fotografie. 021 CRISTALLO DI MEZZO - Ferrata Marino Bianchi (II 3) 207 Avvertenza: questa guida è compilata con la massima coscienziosità ma non si garantisce per eventuali errori o incompletezze. L’uso delle informazioni contenute in quest’opera è a proprio rischio. L’autore e l’editore non si assumono quindi nessuna responsabilità per eventuali incidenti o qualsiasi altra conseguenza. 022 MONTE CRISTALLO - Sentiero Ivano Dibona (III 2+) 211 Disclaimer: whilst every effort has been made to ensure that the information contained in guidebook is correct, no guarantees are implied or suggested that is free 023 MONTE FALORIA - Ferrata Sci Club 18 (II 5) 217 from errors or that it is complete. Use of the information contained in this book is at your own risk. Neither the author nor the editor therefore accept any liability for accidents or any other damage caused. 024 GIRO DEL SORAPISS - Ferrata Berti (III 3) e Ferrata Vandelli (III 2) 223 SENTIERI D'AUTORE FERRATE A CORTINA PREFAZIONE Arrampicare sulle ferrate è stato, per me, il vero ini- Climbing Via Ferrata was, for me, the true start to a Das Klettern auf Klettersteigen war für mich der ei- zio di una lunga attività alpinistica. L’amore, subito long mountaineering career. gentliche Beginn einer langen Bergsteigeraktivi- riscontrato per il paesaggio dolomitico, mi è arriva- The passion, which had its heart in the dolomite tät. Die Liebe zur Dolomitenlandschaft habe ich so- to proprio frequentando, nei primi anni ’70, le prime countryside, was born in the mid 70s from climbing fort erkannt und begann mit dem Klettern Mitte der ferrate che venivano costruite. Quelle della conca the first ferratas ever built. Those of the Ampezzo 70er Jahre, als die ersten Klettersteige gebaut wur- ampezzana sono state tra le prime in assoluto in basin – the valley surrounding Cortina, are among den. Die Steige des Ampezzo Tals gehören zu den tutto l’arco alpino e la loro sistematica posa in opera the very first in the entire alpine spectrum, and their ersten ihrer Art in den Alpen und ihr systematischer risale proprio a quegli anni. systematic construction continued right up to that Bau stammt aus diesem Jahrzehnt. Ancora quindicenne andavo, con mio padre e mio decade. Als Fünfzehnjähriger stieg ich mit meinem Vater und fratello e a volte accompagnato da altri amici, su When I was only fourteen, I often scaled these peaks meinem Bruder, manchmal von anderen Freunden per queste crode conquistando ogni volta una fetta with my father and brother, sometimes accompa- begleitet, in diese Wände und bezwang jedes Mal di cielo. Il fisico si temprava alle più dure fatiche fu- nied by other friends, and each time we conquered ein Stück Himmel. Der Körper wurde für die härtes- ture ma soprattutto la mente ed il cuore trovavano il our own bit of sky. It prepared me physically for the ten Strapazen der Zukunft gestählt, aber auch der giusto terreno per formare una personalità al tempo harder adventures which were to follow, but more Geist und das Herz fanden den richtigen Nährboden ancora un po’ insicura. importantly my mind and heart had the right envi- für die Bildung einer damals noch etwas unsicheren È stata sicuramente la montagna ad aprirmi al mon- ronment to allow what was at the time an unsure Persönlichkeit. do e i primi passi che ho compiuto su di essa sono personality to form. Es war sicherlich der Berg, der mir die Tür zur Welt stati proprio lungo le ferrate di Cortina. Without doubt it was the mountains which opened geöffnet hat, und die ersten Schritte, die ich dort La Lipella, la Punta Anna, la Strobel, il Col Rosà, la my eyes to the world, and my first steps upon them oben gemacht habe, waren eben die Klettersteige Tomaselli rappresentavano, fino a pochi mesi fa, were on these very ferratas of Cortina. von Cortina. luoghi mitici e romantici soprattutto perché mi ri- Until a few months ago, Lipella, Punta Anna, Strobel, Der Lipella, Punta Anna, Strobel, Col Rosà und Toma- cordavano mio padre, uomo tanto appassionato di Col Rosa and Tomaselli represented magical and selli Steig waren für mich bis vor wenigen Monaten montagna quanto me stesso negli anni a venire. cherished places to me, mainly because they re- geliebte und mythische Orte, da sie mich vor allem an Ripercorrere quindi quegli itinerari non era solo vi- minded me of my father, a man with the same pas- meinen Vater erinnerten, der ebenso wie ich – ein Le- vere la poesia del momento ma soprattutto rivedere sion for the mountains that I was later to discover. ben lang eine große Leidenschaft für die Berge hegte. un passato remoto tanto caro, quello che ti fa venire So to reclimb these routes was not simply a joy in Diese Wege zurückzuverfolgen, war nicht nur das Er- gli occhi lucidi, quello che purtroppo non tornerà. itself, but also a chance to relive a much-loved and leben eines poetischen Moments, sondern auch das Per questo, quando alcuni cortinesi mi suggeriro- distant past, one which brings tears to the eyes and einer so teuren und so weit zurückliegenden Vergan- no la realizzazione di questa guida, non ho dovuto one which, sadly, will never return. genheit, die die Augen nass werden lässt, die aber starci a pensare su tanto. Presi una piccola imbra- It was for this reason that when some friends from leider nicht wiederkehrt. catura, il set da ferrata di mia moglie ed un casco Cortina suggested that I write this guidebook, I Aus diesem Grund musste ich nicht lange überle- per avvicinarmi, in una giornata radiosa, alla Cima didn’t need much persuasion.. Taking a harness, gen, als mir einige Cortineser die Verfassung dieses Fanis, a quella che è considerata tutt’oggi una delle my wife’s via ferrata tails and a helmet one sunny Führers vorschlugen. Ich nahm einen kleinen Klet- ferrate più impegnative della conca. Non sono dota- day I took myself to Cima Fanis, up what is still con- tergurt, das Klettersteigset meiner Frau und einen to di memoria ferrea ma il bivacco e lo spigolo finale sidered one of the most challenging ferratas of the Helm, um mich an einem strahlenden Tag der Fanis me li ricordavo bene.
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