CCONTENTSONTENTS

List of Maps vii 1 THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE 1 Most Unforgettable New York City Best New York City Parks 11 3 Experiences Best Neighborhoods to Stroll in The Best Food & Drink New York City 11 4 Experiences Best Streets to Walk Up or Down 12 6 Best Family Experiences Best Offbeat New York Best Free & Dirt-Cheap New York 7 Experiences 13 The Best Ways to See New York Best Days in New York’s Other Like a Local 8 Boroughs 14 New York’s Best Events & Seasons 8 Best Shopping in New York City 15 New York’s Best Museums 9 Best Culture & Nightlife in New 16 Best New York City Buildings 10 York

2 NEW YORK CITY IN DEPTH 18 New York City Today 19 When to Go 38 The Making of New York City 21 LIVE NOT FROM NEW YORK (BUT DATELINE 22 ABOUT NEW YORK) 40 New York City's Architecture 25 NEW YORK CITY CALENDAR OF EVENTS 42 New York City in Pop Culture 32 48 NEW YORK CITY PLAYLIST 38 Responsible Tourism 3 NEW YORK CITY NEIGHBORHOODS & SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 50

City Layout 51 Iconic NYC in 3 Days 77 New York City Neighborhoods in HERE ARE SOME THINGS NOT TO DO Brief 51COPYRIGHTEDIN NYC MATERIAL 78 Iconic NYC in 1 Day 69 MMMM . . . Essential NYC 81 Iconic NYC in 2 Days 73 Eating Itinerary

4 EXPLORING NEW YORK CITY 85 New York’s Top Sights & HISTORIC DOWNTOWN Attractions 86 STRUCTURES 88 Downtown 87 COLONIAL-ERA SACRED GROUND 97

002_9781118287606-ftoc.indd2_9781118287606-ftoc.indd iiiiii 66/19/12/19/12 110:000:00 PMPM 9/11 MEMORIAL PLAZA 99 Especially for Kids 165 Midtown 107 Manhattan’s Art Galleries 168 HEADING FOR THE TOP OF THE Outdoor Activities 170 ROCK 122 RUNNING THE CITY 170 Uptown 124 BIKING THE CITY 177 HARLEM’S ARCHITECTURAL PARK RENAISSANCE IN LOWER TREASURES 125 MANHATTAN 182 ENJOYING THE GOSPEL OF POCKET PARKS IN MANHATTAN 184 HARLEM 126 Organized Sightseeing Tours 188 UPTOWN’S HISTORIC HOMES 137 NIGHTS AT THE MUSEUM 189 143 The Outer Boroughs OFFBEAT NEW YORK TOURS 194 THE BRONX YOU NEVER KNEW EXISTED 148 Sights & Attractions by Theme Index 196 SEEING BROOKLYN LIKE A NATIVE 160

5 WHERE TO EAT 199 Best Restaurant Bets 200 THE HOLE TRUTH: N.Y.’S BEST 230 Financial District & TriBeCa 202 BAGELS FOOD IN A NY MINUTE 206 Times Square & Midtown West 231 Chinatown 207 URBAN BBQ: THE BEST ’CUE IN 209 Lower East Side NEW YORK CITY 237 211 SoHo & Nolita THE PIZZA CAPITAL OF THE UNITED HELLO, OLD FRIENDS! 214 STATES 240 The East Village & NoHo 216 THE NEW YORK DELI NEWS 242 Greenwich Village & the WHERE TO FIND YOUR (BURGER) Meatpacking District 218 BLISS IN NYC 244 EATING CHINESE OUTSIDE OF Midtown East & Murray Hill 244 CHINATOWN 221 FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS 246 222 Chelsea WHERE THE EDITOR EATS . . . 248 THE PRIME CUT: STEAKS! STEAKS! 250 STEAKS! 224 Upper West Side FOODIES LOVE RESTAURANT APRIL’S TRIO BLOOMS IN NYC 226 WEEK! 252 Union Square, Flatiron District & BREAKFAST, NOT BRUNCH! 256 Gramercy Park 228 259 FOODIE FOOD COURTS IN THE Upper East Side BIG APPLE 229 Harlem 262

002_9781118287606-ftoc.indd2_9781118287606-ftoc.indd iviv 66/19/12/19/12 110:000:00 PMPM THE SOUL OF HARLEM 264 WHERE THE EDITOR EATS (QUEENS HARLEM RESTAURANT VERSION) 271 RENAISSANCE 265 Practical Information 272 The Outer Boroughs 266 Restaurants by Cuisine 274

6 SHOPPING 279 Shopping by Area 280 NYC IS CHOCOLATE CITY 311 SHOPPING 1-2-5 STREET 292 A TASTE OF NEW YORK: EDIBLE 313 The Big Department Stores 293 SOUVENIRS SALE SEASONS 296 SHOP THE MUSEUM STORES 320 326 Shopping A to Z 296 Practical Matters TAKE THE L TRAIN FOR BROOKLYN SHOPPING 302 7 NEW YORK CITY ENTERTAINMENT & NIGHTLIFE 327

NEW ON THE ARTS/NIGHTLIFE Bars & Cocktail Lounges 364 SCENE THIS SEASON 329 AUTHOR! AUTHOR! WHERE TO HEAR The NYC Theater Scene 330 SPOKEN WORD 366 KIDS TAKE THE STAGE: FAMILY-FRIENDLY WHEN ALL THE CITY BECOMES THEATER 334 A PATIO 369 THE ABCS OF TDF 337 DRINKING WITH GHOSTS 373 MORE DRAMATIC VENUES WORTH LATE-NIGHT BITES 374 SEEKING OUT 338 THE NEW YORK DIVE EXPERIENCE 376 Classical Music, Opera & CHECKING INTO HOTEL BARS 378 340 Dance SMOKE ’EM IF YA GOT ’EM (IN Major Concert Halls & Landmark DESIGNATED AREAS) 380 Venues 345 Dance Clubs & Party Scenes 381 PARK IT! SHAKESPEARE, MUSIC & GETTING BEYOND THE VELVET OTHER FRESH-AIR FUN 350 ROPE 383 Live Rock, Jazz, Blues & More 353 The Gay & Lesbian Scene 383 361 Cabaret TIME TO HIT THE SLOPE 386 Stand-Up Comedy 362 Talk of the Town: TV Tapings 386 AND FOR THE CINEMANIACS . . . 363 Spectator Sports 389

002_9781118287606-ftoc.indd2_9781118287606-ftoc.indd v 66/19/12/19/12 110:000:00 PMPM 8 WHERE TO STAY 392 Best Splurge Hotels 393 Chelsea 406 Best Bang for your Buck 393 Union Square, Flatiron District & 407 Best Hotels for Families 394 Gramercy Park 411 Most Romantic Hotels 394 Times Square & Midtown West 417 Best Service 395 CHECKING IN ON HOTEL ROW 422 Best Incentives for Hotel- FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTELS Hopping 395 Midtown East & Murray Hill 423 WHAT YOU’LL REALLY PAY 396 HOTEL PET PEEVES 428 South Street Seaport & Upper West Side 430 396 the Financial District Upper East Side 435 TriBeCa, the Lower East Side & Brooklyn 439 398 NoLita STAYING ACROSS THE EAST RIVER IN SoHo 401 QUEENS 440 The Village & Meatpacking Practical Matters: The Hotel 403 District Scene 440 PLENTY OF ROOM AT THE INN 404

9 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO NEW YORK CITY 445

Getting There 446 WHERE TO CHECK YOUR E-MAIL IN THE AIRTRAINS TO NEWARK & JFK—THE CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS 462 GOOD & THE NOT-SO- GOOD 450 FAST FACTS: NEW YORK CITY 463 Getting Around 452 Airline Websites 474 SUBWAY STOPS FOR NEW YORK’S TOP ATTRACTIONS 455

Index 475

002_9781118287606-ftoc.indd2_9781118287606-ftoc.indd vivi 66/19/12/19/12 110:000:00 PMPM LIST OF MAPS

New York Metropolitan Area 5 Lower East Side Restaurants 210 New York City Neighborhoods 53 West Village & Meatpacking District Restaurants 219 Iconic NYC in One Day 71 Midtown East Restaurants (14th St. to Iconic NYC in Two Days 75 42nd St.) 223 Iconic NYC in Three Days 80 Midtown West Restaurants (14th St. to Essential New York Eating 82 42nd St.) 233 Downtown Attractions 90 Midtown Restaurants (42nd St. to 66th St.) 250 Midtown Attractions 92 Uptown Restaurants 258 Uptown Attractions 94 Harlem & Upper Manhattan Harlem & Upper Manhattan Restaurants 263 Attractions 96 Theater District Theaters 331 Bronx Highlights 145 Lincoln Center 347 The Bronx Zoo 146 Downtown Hotels 397 Brooklyn Highlights 153 Midtown Hotels (14th St. to Coney Island 156 42nd St.) 408 Brooklyn Heights 159 Midtown Hotels (42nd St. to Central Park 171 66th St.) 432 Lower Manhattan Restaurants 203 Uptown Hotels 436

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