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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

New York

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”

TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Brandon Presser, Cristian Bonetto, Carolina A Miranda Contents

PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4

Welcome to If You Like… ...... 22 Drinking & Nightlife ...38 City ...... 4 Month by Month ...... 25 Gay & Lesbian ...... 41 ’s Top 16 ...6 With Kids ...... 29 ...... 43 What’s New ...... 17 Like a Local ...... 32 Shopping ...... 46 Need to Know ...... 18 Eating ...... 34 Sports & Activities .... 49 Top Itineraries ...... 20

Explore New York City 52

Neighborhoods at a , Upper & Glance ...... 54 Chelsea & the ...... 227 Meatpacking & Lower & District ...... 128 the Financial Upper Manhattan ...... 246 District ...... 56 Union Square, ...... 262 & ...... 296 SoHo & Chinatown ...... 80 Gramercy ...... 160 Day Trips from East Village & Midtown...... 174 Lower ...... 100 New York City ...... 309 ...... 210 Sleeping ...... 326

Understand New York City 349

New York City Today .. 350 The Arts...... 368 Painting the Town Pink ...... 377 History ...... 352 Architecture ...... 372 NYC on Screen ...... 381 The NYC Table ...... 364

Survival Guide 385

Transportation ...... 386 Directory A–Z ...... 391 Index ...... 402

New York City Maps 413 BRENT WINEBRENNER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Eating ...... 235 Eating ...... 238 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 238 Entertainment...... 243 Shopping ...... 244 Sports & Activities Day Trips from Trips Day City ...... 309York New Sleeping . .326 ...... Brooklyn ...... 262 Sights ...... Top 264 ...... 270 Sights ...... 278 Eating ...... 285 Drinking & Nightlife ...... Entertainment. 288 ...... Shopping 289 ...... Sports & Activities 294 ...... 296 Queens Sights ...... Top 298 ...... Sights 300 ...... Eating 303 . . . . . Drinking & Nightlife 308 ...... Sports & Activities 308 Harlem & . . .246 Upper Manhattan Sights248 ...... Top ...... Sights 251 ...... 258 Eating ...... 259 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 259 Entertainment...... Shopping 260 ...... Sports & Activities 260 Top Sights229 ...... Top ...... 234 Sights & West Upper ParkCentral ...... 227 Upper East SideUpper East . . . . 210 Sights ...... Top 212 ...... 217 Sights ...... Eating 220 ...... 224 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 224 Entertainment...... 225Shopping ...... 225 Sports & Activities Midtown ...... 174 Midtown Sights ...... Top 176 ...... 189 Sights ...... 194 Eating ...... Drinking & Nightlife 197 ...... Entertainment. 200 ...... Shopping 205 ...... Sports & Activities 208 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 146 Drinking & Nightlife ...... Entertainment. 151 ...... Shopping 153 ...... 158 Sports & Activities Union Square, & District Flatiron ...... Gramercy 160 Sights...... Top 162 ...... 164...... Sights ...... 164 Eating ...... 168 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 169Entertainment...... Shopping 172 ...... 173 Sports & Activities

Eating ...... 139 Eating Top Sights ...... 130 Top ...... Sights 135 Sports & Activities ...... 127 ...... Sports & Activities Shopping ...... Shopping 122 Village, Greenwich Chelsea & the Meatpacking ...... 128 District Entertainment...... 120Entertainment. Drinking & Nightlife ...... Drinking & 115 Nightlife Eating ...... Eating 111 Sports & Activities ...... 99 Sports & Activities Sights ...... Top 102 ...... Sights 107 Shopping ...... 94Shopping & Village East Side East Lower . . . .100 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 93 Drinking & Nightlife Eating ...... 89 Eating Sports & Activities ...... 78 Sports & Activities ...... 86 Sights Shopping ...... Shopping 77 Sights ...... 82 Top Entertainment...... Entertainment. 77 . . .80 & Chinatown SoHo Drinking & Nightlife ...... 75 Drinking & Nightlife Eating ...... 71 Eating Sights ...... 63...... Sights Top Sights...... 58 Top & Lower . .56the Financial District Neighborhoods at a Glance ...... 54 New York City York New Explore Explore 52 53

NEW YORK ’S TOP SIGHTS

Statue of Liberty ...... 58 ...... 60 World Trade Center Site ...62 Little ...... 82 Tenement Museum ...... 102 The ...... 130 Chelsea Market ...... 132 ...... 133 Union Square...... 162 ...... 176 ...... 179 Museum of Modern Art ..180 Radio City Music Hall...... 182 Chrysler Building ...... 183 Empire State Building ....185 Grand Central Terminal ..187 Metropolitan Museum of Art ...... 212 Guggenheim Museum ...215 Central Park ...... 229 Lincoln Center ...... 233 ...... 250 Brooklyn .... 264 Brooklyn Museum of Art ...... 265 Coney Island ...... 266 Williamsburg...... 268

413

New York City Maps

Map Legend SightsSports & Activities Routes Geographic Beach Diving/Snorkelling Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Canoeing/Kayaking Freeway Lighthouse Castle Skiing Lookout Primary Surfing Christian Mountain/Volcano Swimming/Pool Secondary Hindu Oasis Walking Islamic Tertiary Park Windsurfing Lane Pass Jewish Other Sports & Picnic Area Monument Activities Unsealed Road Waterfall Museum/Gallery Information Plaza/Mall Ruin Hydrography Post Office Steps Winery/Vineyard Tourist Information River/Creek Tunnel Zoo Intermittent River Transport Other Sight Pedestrian Swamp/Mangrove Airport Overpass Reef Eating Border Crossing Walking Tour Canal Eating Bus Walking Tour Water Detour Dry/Salt/ Drinking & Nightlife Cable Car/Funicular Intermittent Lake Path Drinking & Nightlife Cycling Glacier Cafe Ferry Boundaries Areas Entertainment Monorail International Beach/Desert Entertainment Parking State/Province Cemetery (Christian) Shopping Subway Disputed Cemetery (Other) Shopping Taxi Regional/Suburb Park/Forest Train/Railway Marine Park Sportsground Sleeping Sight (Building) Tram Cliff Sleeping Top Sight Camping Other Transport Wall (Building)

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MAP INDEX 5 Lower East Side (p424) 10 Midtown West & Times Greene & Red Hook (p448) 6 Greenwich Village & Square (p438) 16 Park Slope & Prospect 1 Lower Manhattan & the Meatpacking District 11 Upper East Side (p440) Park (p450) (p416) (p426) 12 Upper West Side (p442) 17 Brooklyn Heights, 2 SoHo, NoHo & 7 Chelsea (p430) Downtown Brooklyn & (p418) 13 Harlem & Upper 8 Union Square, Flatiron Manhattan (p444) Dumbo (p452) 3 Chinatown & Little Italy District & Gramercy (p432) 18 Coney Island & Brighton (p421) 14 Williamsburg (p446) 9 Midtown East & Fifth Beach (p453) 4 East Village (p422) 15 Boerum Hill, Carroll Avenue (p434) Gardens, Cobble Hill, Fort 19 Queens (p454) 415 LOWER MANHATTAN & TRIBECA Clubhouse...... E5 Rentals ...... C7 Playground ...... E5 JEM Fabric Warehouse...... D2 Pasanella & Son ...... F5 Philip Williams Posters ...... C3 Steven Alan...... C2 Urban Archaeology...... B2 Bike & Roll Bike Dialog in the Dark...... E5 Imagination Real Pilates ...... B3 Ferry...... D8 Andaz Wall St ...... E6 Cosmopolitan Hotel...... C3 Duane Street Hotel ...... C3 Gild Hall ...... D5 Greenwich Hotel...... B2 Smyth Tribeca...... C3 Wall Street Inn...... D7 Sports & Activities (p78) Sleeping (p329) 71 61 57 72 67 55 70 58 56 59 65 62 63 68 66 69 64 60 Ø ÿ Theater ...... C2 World ...... D4 Another Room ...... C2 Blue Bar at India House ...... D6 Brandy Library...... B2 Kaffe 1668 ...... B3 Keg No 229 ...... F5 La Colombe...... C1 Macao...... C1 Smith & Mills...... B2 Ward III ...... C3 Weather Up ...... C3 92YTribeca...... B1 Flea Theater ...... C2 Manhattan Children's Tribeca Cinemas...... B1 World Financial Center...... B5 Century 21...... C5 Citystore...... D3 J&R Music & Computer Drinking & Nightlife (p75) Entertainment (p77) Shopping (p77) 51 41 37 47 52 53 38 39 45 54 42 43 50 48 46 49 44 40 û ý þ Map on p416 Exchange ...... A4 Seton...... D7 Museum...... E5 New York City Police Museum...... E7 New York Mercantile New York Stock Exchange ...... D6 Shrine to St Elizabeth Ann Skyscraper Museum...... C7 Seaport ...... F5 St Paul's Chapel ...... C4 Trinity Church ...... C6 ...... C4 Barbarini ...... F5 Kutsher's Tribeca...... B2 Les Halles ...... D5 Locanda Verde ...... B2 Moomah...... B1 Nelson Blue ...... F5 Market...... F5 Shake Shack...... B4 Thalassa...... B2 Tiny's & the Bar Upstairs...... C3 Eating (p71) 17 21 31 18 19 27 25 22 35 23 32 28 33 26 29 36 24 34 20 30 ú York ...... D5 Finance...... D6 American Indian ...... D7 Ellis Island ...... C8 ...... C8 World Trade Center Site...... C5 9/11 Memorial Preview Site...... C4 African Burial Ground ...... D3 Battery Park...... C7 Beekman Tower ...... D4 Bowling Green ...... C7 Brooklyn Bridge...... G4 ...... C7 ...... D6 Federal Reserve Bank of New Fraunces Tavern Museum...... D7 Harrison Street Houses ...... B3 Park...... C7 Irish Hunger Memorial ...... A4 Museum of American Museum of Jewish Heritage...... B7 National Museum of the 1 7 2 5 3 8 6 9 Top SightsSights (p58) (p63) 4 11 12 15 13 16 14 10 LOWER MANHATTAN & TRIBECA æ æ 416 1 2 3 4

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SOHO, NOHO & NOLITA Map on p418 æ Top Sights (p83) 36 Daily 235 ...... G4 Merchant's House Museum ...... G2 37 DDC Lab...... E7 38 De Vera ...... F7 æ Sights (p86) 39 Eleven...... G4 1 American Numismatic Society ...... C6 40 Erica Tanov...... G5 2 Children's Museum of the Arts...... F6 41 Etiqueta Negra ...... F4 3 ...... E6 42 Evolution...... E5 4 Museum of Comic & Cartoon Art...... F4 43 Flying A ...... D5 5 New York City Fire Museum...... B5 44 Housing Works Book Store...... F4 6 New York Earth Room...... E4 45 Ice Cream & the Billionaire Boys Club.....D4 7 Ravenite Social Club ...... G4 46 Jack Spade ...... E6 8 St Patrick's Old Cathedral ...... G4 47 Joe's Jeans ...... E5 48 John Varvatos ...... E5 ú Eating (p89) 49 Kiosk...... E5 9 Balaboosta...... G5 50 Marc Jacobs ...... E4 10 ...... F5 51 McNally Jackson ...... F4 11 Blue Ribbon Brasserie ...... D5 52 MoMA Store ...... F5 12 Blue Ribbon Sushi ...... D4 53 Moss...... E4

SOHO, NOHO & NOLITA SOHO, 13 Café Gitane ...... G4 54 Odin...... F6 14 Dean & DeLuca...... F4 55 Opening Ceremony...... F7 15 Il Buco...... G3 56 Other Music ...... F2 16 La Esquina...... F6 57 Pearl River Mart ...... E6 17 Mercer Kitchen ...... E4 58 Prada...... F4 18 Peasant ...... G5 59 Purl Soho ...... E6 19 Rubirosa...... G5 60 Resurrection...... G5 20 Spring Street Natural...... F5 61 Rudy's Music ...... E6 21 The Dutch...... D4 62 Scoop...... E6 22 Torrisi Italian Specialties ...... G4 63 Screaming Mimi's ...... F2 64 Shakespeare & Co ...... F1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p93) 65 Topshop...... F6 Jimmy...... (see 78) 66 Uniqlo...... F5 23 MiLady's ...... D4 67 Unis ...... G4 24 Pravda ...... F4 68 United Nude...... G3 25 Randolph...... H6 69 Young Designers Market...... G4

ý Entertainment Ø Sports & Activities (p99) 26 Opera ...... G3 70 Bunya Citispa ...... D4 Joe's Pub...... (see 27) 71 Great Jones Spa...... G2 27 Joseph Papp Public Theater...... G1 28 Joyce Soho...... E4 ÿ Sleeping (p330) 72 60 Thompson...... D5 þ Shopping (p94) 73 Crosby Street Hotel...... F5 29 Adidas...... F3 74 Lafayette House...... G2 30 Adidas Originals...... E4 Mercer...... (see 17) 31 American Apparel...... E5 75 Mondrian Soho...... F7 32 Atrium ...... F3 76 Nolitan Hotel...... G5 33 Babeland ...... E6 77 Solita Soho ...... F7 34 Bond 09...... F3 78 The James New York...... D6 35 Daffy's ...... F6 79 Trump SoHo New York...... C5

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ú Eating (p139) û Drinking & Nightlife (p146) 8 Alta...... F2 41 124 Old Rabbit Club ...... F5 9 Babbo ...... F4 42 675 Bar ...... B1 10 Barbuto ...... B3 43 Art Bar...... C2 11 Bill's Bar & Burger ...... B1 44 Bar Next Door...... F4 12 Blue Hill ...... E4 45 Blue Ribbon Downing Street Bar ...... E6 13 Blue Ribbon Bakery...... E6 Boom Boom Room...... (see 117) 14 Bonsignour ...... C2 46 Brass Monkey ...... A2 15 Buvette...... D4 47 Corner Bistro ...... C2 16 Café Cluny ...... C2 48 Cubbyhole ...... C2 17 Crispo ...... D1 49 Employees Only...... C4 18 Empellon ...... D4 50 G2 ...... B1 19 Fatty Crab...... B2 51 Henrietta Hudson...... D5 20 Gotham Bar & Grill...... G2 52 Julius Bar...... D3 21 Grom...... E5 53 Kettle of Fish ...... E3 22 Grounded Organic Coffee & Tea 54 Kiss & Fly ...... B1 House ...... C2 Le Bain ...... (see 117) 23 Hector's Café & Diner...... A2 55 Little Branch...... D5 24 Joe the Art of Coffee ...... E3 56 Marie's Crisis...... D4 25 Joe's Pizza ...... E5 57 Monster ...... D4 26 Kin Shop...... E2 58 One If By Land, Two If By Sea...... E4 27 L'Artusi...... C4 Standard...... (see 117) 28 Minetta Tavern...... F5 59 Stonewall Inn ...... E3 GREENWICH VILLAGE & THE MEATPACKING DISTRICT GREENWICH VILLAGE & THE MEATPACKING 429

60 Sullivan Room ...... F5 91 Jeffrey New York ...... A1 61 Vin Sur Vingt...... D2 92 John Bartlett ...... D3 62 Vol de Nuit ...... E4 93 Marc by Marc Jacobs...... C3 63 White Horse Tavern...... C3 94 McNulty's Tea & Coffee Co,

Inc...... D4 & THE MEATPACKINGGREENWICH VILLAGE DISTRICT ý Entertainment (p151) 95 Murray's Cheese...... E5 64 13th St Repertory Company...... F1 96 Mxyplyzyk...... C2 65 55 Bar ...... D4 97 Odin...... C4 66 Actor's Playhouse...... D4 98 Pleasure Chest...... D3 67 Angelika Film Center...... H6 99 Stella McCartney...... A1 68 Barrow Street Theater...... D4 100 Strand Book Store ...... H2 69 Blue Note ...... E4 101 Susan Parrish Antiques...... C3 70 Cherry Lane Theater ...... D5 102 The Bathroom...... D4 71 Comedy Cellar...... F5 103 Three Lives & Company...... E3 72 Cornelia St Café...... E4 104 Yoya...... B2 Duplex ...... (see 65) 105 Yoyamart...... B2 73 IFC Center...... E4 74 Le Poisson Rouge ...... F5 Ø Sports & Activities (p158) 75 New School University...... G2 106 Bowlmor Lanes...... G2 76 Smalls Jazz Club...... D3 107 Downtown Boathouse ...... B7 77 Village Vanguard...... D2 108 New York Trapeze School...... B7 109 Om Yoga Center...... H2 þ Shopping (p153) 110 Tony Dapolito Recreation 78 Adam ...... B1 Center ...... D6 79 Aedes de Venustas...... E3 111 West Basketball 80 Alexander McQueen...... B1 Courts ...... E4 81 Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks ...... D3 82 Buckler ...... B2 ÿ Sleeping (p332) 83 Castor & Pollux ...... C4 112 Chelsea Pines Inn...... C1 84 CO Bigelow Chemists...... E3 113 Hotel Gansevoort ...... B2 85 DDC Lab ...... A1 114 Incentra Village House...... C2 86 Destination ...... A2 115 Jane Hotel...... A3 87 Earnest Sewn ...... A2 116 SoHo House ...... B1 88 Flight 001 ...... D2 117 Standard ...... A2 89 Forbidden Planet ...... H1 118 Village Guest House...... E4 90 Greenwich Letterpress ...... D3 119 West Eleventh Townhouse...... C3 430

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St Humboldt # ¦ Ave A # ¦ Ave Nassau # ¦ Greenpoint MoMA PS1...... A4 5 Pointz ...... A4 Fisher Landau Center for Art ...... Gantry B3 Plaza State Park...... A4 Louis Armstrong House...... F3 Museum of the Moving Image...... C3 New York Hall of Science...... F4 Noguchi Museum...... B2 Queens Museum of Art...... F4 SculptureCenter ...... B4 ...... B2 Unisphere...... (see 8) Brooklyn Bagel & Coffee Company...... C3 El Ay Si...... A4 1 7 5 2 3 8 Top SightsSights (p298) (p300) Eating (p303) 6 9 4 11 12 10 æ æ ú 5 Our Story A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. Our Writers Brandon Presser Coordinating Author; SoHo & Chinatown, East Village & Lower East Side, Greenwich Village, Chelsea & the Meatpacking District and Union Square, Flatiron District & Gramercy After earning an art history degree from Harvard University and working at the Musée du Louvre, Brandon swapped landscape canvases for the real deal and joined the glamorous ranks of eternal nomad- ism. Today, Brandon works as a fulltime freelance writer and photographer. He’s penned over 40 guidebooks to far-fl ung destinations across the globe, from Iceland to Thailand and many ‘lands’ in between. When he’s not on the road he calls New York City home – he lives a block from Union Square. Brandon also wrote the Planning, Sleeping, Day Trips from New York City, New York City Today, History and Survival Guide chapters. Read more about Brandon at: lonelyplanet.com/members/brandonpresser

Cristian Bonetto Lower Manhattan & the Financial District, Midtown and Queens Raised on a diet of , Cristian’s fondness for stoops and subways began in his diaper days. Since then, the one-time TV and theater scribe has played both tour- ist and local in New York City, writing about the city’s food, architecture and art for numerous international publications. When he’s not downing dirty martinis in Manhattan, you’ll fi nd him on assignment in Italy, Scandinavia or Southeast Asia. Cristian also wrote the NYC Table, Painting the Town Pink and NYC on Screen chapters.

Carolina A Miranda Upper East Side, Upper West Side & Central Park, Harlem & Upper Man- hattan and Brooklyn Carolina has lived in New York for almost two (Coney Island, Park Slope, Manhattan and Bushwick). During her time in the city, she’s attended the roller derby, canoed through industrial canals, watched basement performance art, seen operas at Lincoln Center and gotten engaged on the roof of the Metropolitan Museum. Her stories have appeared in Time, ARTnews, Budget Travel and on National Public Radio. She is a regular contributor at WNYC. Find her on Twitter at @cmonstah. Carolina also wrote the With Kids and Arts and Architecture chapters.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 8th edition – Aug 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74220 020 0 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. 20

Top Itineraries

Day One Day Two

Upper West Side & Upper East Side (p210 ) Central Park (p227 ) Start at the Frick Collection, one of Spend the morning exploring the M the city’s more underrated art spaces. M wonders of Central Park, taking The building itself is a true NYC treasure as in the fortresslike wall of skyscrapers that it’s one of the few remaining Fifth Ave man- surrounds the green. Start at Columbus sions that hasn’t been transformed into an Circle, then head in the northeast direction apartment block. Say hello to the Vermeers passing the Central Park Zoo, the Bethes- and the Bellini, then stroll down Madison da Fountain, the Conservatory Water Ave for some shopping at Crawford Doyle and Strawberry Fields on the west side. If Booksellers, Encore and Michael’s for you have the kids in tow, check out the dino- designer duds on consignment. saur skeletons at the American Museum of Natural History then hit up the Loeb Lunch Join the ladies who lunch at Via Boathouse for a paddle around the lake. Quadronno (p 221 ).

Lunch Pick up supplies at Zabar’s SoHo & Chinatown (p 80) (p 235 ) for a picnic in Central Park. Head down to SoHo for an afternoon R of shopping amid crowds of tourists Midtown (p174 ) seeking the best brands in the world. Wan- After a morning exploring the green, der over to Chinatown, which feels worlds R it’s time to uncover some of the city’s away from the mainstream but is only a few architectural wonders, like Grand Central blocks over. Stroll by the neighborhood’s Terminal, the Chrysler Building, the Buddhist temples, stopping for snacks like and Rockefel- lacquered pork and almond ice cream. ler Center. Round off the afternoon with a visit to the city’s museum darling: MoMA. Dinner Savor soup dumplings at Joe’s Shanghai (p93 ), a Chinatown staple. Dinner For Broadway-goers, do an early dinner at Marseille (p197 ). Upper West Side & Central Park (p227 ) Midtown (p174) If you have concert tickets, then Spend the evening under the starry N skip dinner downtown and hit up N lights of Broadway, checking out a Barcibo Enoteca for a preshow glass of blockbuster show or something distinctly expertly curated Italian wine – go for some ahead of the curve at Playwrights grub if you’re seeing a full-length show. Horizon or Signature Theatre. Soak up Then it’s off to the Lincoln Center for the atmosphere of Times Square from opera at the Metropolitan Opera House the TKTS Booth, swig cocktails at Rum or a symphony in Avery Fisher Hall. If House then climb to the top of the you didn’t do an early meal then hit up Empire State Building to wish the city Dovetail – the neighborhood’s new foodie ‘goodnight’. hotspot – for a delectable dinner. 21 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Day Three Day Four TOP ITINERARIES

Lower Manhattan & East Village & Lower East Side the Financial District (p56 ) (p100 ) Catch the Staten Island Ferry in Wander through the Lower East M the early morning and watch the M Side, passing revelers returning sun come up over Lower Manhattan’s home from a full night of partying. Start skyscrapers. Then visit the WTC Tribute off with a visit to the Lower East Side Visitors Center and 9/11 Memorial Tenement Museum to gain insight into before honoring some of New York’s great- the city’s fascinating immigration history, est luminaries buried in the cemetery at then wander down the East Village’s Trinity Church. Keep things light with St Mark’s Place before stopping by the a round of shopping at Century 21, then New Museum of Contemporary Art. wave hello to the Charging Bull artwork at Bowling Green. Lunch Cafe Orlin (p 111 ) promises deli- cious Middle Eastern brunch fare. Lunch Gorge on juicy burgers at Shake Shack (p 74 ). Harlem & Upper Manhattan (p246 ) Brooklyn (p 262) Head up to Harlem and visit the Hit up the Brooklyn Museum of R Studio Museum to check out one R Art in South Brooklyn for a surplus of the most important African American of ancient Egyptian artifacts and Ameri- art museums in the country. Move west can paintings. Stroll through Prospect to see the historic facade of the Apollo Park, making sure to hit the vintage Theater, then do like the locals do and carousel in the Children’s Corner. shop at Atmos for sneakers or Swing for more off beat treats. Dinner Head to Dressler (p 283 ) for a Michelin-star treat. Dinner Try Red Rooster (p 258 ) for wine-soaked, high-end comfort food. Brooklyn (p 262) Head to Williamsburg, on the G reenwich Village, Chelsea & N other side of the borough, and join the Meatpacking District (p128 ) the veritable pub crawl – for snooty old- Continue your pilgrimage through timey cocktails shaken by bewhiskered N all things soulful and head down to gents in suspenders (no joke), start with the West Village to sample some of the Maison Premiere. Go for vintage – world’s best jazz beats at Blue Note or though more trashy ’70s than high-end Village Vanguard. Slip behind the incon- ’30s – at the Commodore. Swing by the spicuous brown door to swig bathtub gin Brooklyn Bowl afterwards for a side of cocktails amid Prohibition era–style sur- bowling and some groovy musical acts. rounds at Little Branch, then make sure your name is on the guest list at Le Bain. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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