HISTORY OF SOY IN SPAIN & PORTUGAL 1 HISTORY OF SOYBEANS AND SOYFOODS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL (1603-2015): EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK Compiled by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi 2015 Copyright © 2015 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF SOY IN SPAIN & PORTUGAL 2 Copyright (c) 2015 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher. Published by: Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com ISBN 9781928914747 (Spain & Portugal without hyphens) ISBN 978-1-928914-74-7 (Spain & Portugal with hyphens) Printed 1 May 2015 Price: Available on the Web free of charge Search engine keywords: History of soybeans in Spain Chronology of soybeans in Portugal History of soyfoods in Spain Chronology of soyfoods in Portugal History of soyabeans in Spain Chronology of soyabeans in Portugal History of soy in Spain Chronology of soy in Portugal History of soybeans in Portugal Timeline of soybeans in Portugal History of soyfoods in Portugal Timeline of soyfoods in Portugal History of soyabeans in Portugal Timeline of soyabeans in Portugal History of soy in Portugal Timeline of soy in Portugal Chronology of soybeans in Spain Bibliography of soybeans in Portugal Chronology of soyfoods in Spain Bibliography of soyfoods in Portugal Chronology of soyabeans in Spain Bibliography of soyabeans in Portugal Chronology of soy in Spain Bibliography of soy in Portugal Timeline of soybeans in Spain History of soybeans on the Iberian Peninsula Timeline of soyfoods in Spain History of soyfoods on the Iberian Peninsula Timeline of soyabeans in Spain History of soyabeans on the Iberian Peninsula Timeline of soy in Spain History of soy on the Iberian Peninsula Bibliography of soybeans in Spain Bibliography of soybeans on the Iberian Peninsula Bibliography of soyfoods in Spain Bibliography of soyfoods on the Iberian Peninsula Bibliography of soyabeans in Spain Bibliography of soyabeans on the Iberian Peninsula Bibliography of soy in Spain Bibliography of soy on the Iberian Peninsula Copyright © 2015 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF SOY IN SPAIN & PORTUGAL 3 Contents Page Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4 Introduction and Brief Chronology, by William Shurtleff .......................................................................................... 5 About This Book ............................................................................................................................................................. 8 Abbreviations Used in This Book .................................................................................................................................. 9 How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! .................................................................................... 10 Full-Page Graphics ................................................................................................................................................. 12-14 History of Soybeans and Soyfoods in Spain and Portugal: 624 References in Chronological Order ................... 15 Contains 23 Photographs and Illustrations Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................... 274 Last Page of Index ....................................................................................................................................................... 327 Copyright © 2015 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF SOY IN SPAIN & PORTUGAL 4 DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. This book is dedicated to the pioneering Portuguese and Spaniards (often missionaries) who sailed to Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library East Asia and brought back early information about (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman. soybeans and soyfoods. We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting collecting the documents, building the library, and producing people from around the world who share a common interest, the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed: and in learning from them what is often the knowledge or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, practice. We wish to give deepest thanks... Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle help to our research over the years, several stand out: Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li, University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman, Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey. Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn Hsu, Brooke Vittimberga, Tanya Kochan. Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman. Maryland. And to Lorenz K. Schaller of Ojai, California. Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special For outstanding help on this history of soy in Spain and help on Slavic-language documents. Portugal book we thank: Javier Arocena, Steve Carr, Joaquim Castillo, Roger Leysen, Anders Lindner, Dawn Toscano, and National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Xavier Vilacís. Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, California, who has kept our computers up and running since Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web Tanner Wray. would not have been possible. Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache. This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff. Lane Medical Library at Stanford University. This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry history of this subject. Cartmill, Linda Barbero. Harvard University’s Five Botanical Libraries (especially Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas. French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early 1980s. Dutch translation: Sjon Welters. German translation Philip Isenberg, Copyright © 2015 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF SOY IN SPAIN & PORTUGAL 5 INTRODUCTION Brief chronology of soy in Spain and Portugal: 1633 – The Tokugawa shogunate (upset at Portuguese 1603 – In Japan, Vocabulary of the Language of Japan… Christian missionaries intent on making converts and (Vocabulario da Lingoa de Iapam…), a Japanese-Portuguese instigating revolts) adopts a policy of national isolation which dictionary, is compiled and published by Portuguese Jesuit continues for 221 years until 1854. missionaries in Nagasaki. There are entries for: Abura ague [Abura-agé, deep-fried tofu pouches]. 1639 – The Portuguese (mostly Jesuit missionaries) are Amazaqe [Amazake], a still-bubbling fermented liquid expelled from Japan. This leaves only the Dutch among the that has not yet completely become sake; or sweet sake. Europeans still trading with Japan. Azzuqi or azzuqui [azuki beans]. Cabe [Kabe]. Same as tofu. 1665 – The Spanish friar Domingo Fernández Navarrete, Côji [Koji], a yeast [sic] used in Japan to make sake, or makes the following entry in his journal about tofu in China: mixed with other things. “16. Before I proceed to the next chapter, because I forgot it Daizzu, Mame [Daizu, whole dry soybeans]. in the fi rst book, I will here briefl y mention the most usual, Dengacu [Dengaku]. Dancing monks or skewered tofu common and cheap sort of food all China abounds in, and spread with miso and broiled. which all men in that empire eat, from the emperor to the Fanben [Hanben]. A type of food which is made by meanest Chinese, the emperor and great men as a dainty, broiling tofu and simmering it with miso. the common sort as necessary sustenance. It is call’d teu fu Icco [Icchô]. A way of counting some types of food, [tofu], that is, paste of kidney-beans (Llamase Teu Fu, esto such as tofu. es, masa de frixoles {frijoles}). I did not see how they made Miso. A kind of mixture which is made with graos it. They draw the milk out of the kidney-beans, and turning [grains, seeds, kernels], rice, and salt to season Japanese [curding] it, make great cakes of it like cheeses (quesos), as soups. big as a large sieve, and fi ve or six fi ngers thick. All the mass Miso coxi [Misokoshi], a bamboo