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FEATURE 22 FEATURE VIVE LA VIELLE ALLIANCE The Scots and French share an affinity going back centuries. Yet does the Auld Alliance, that once bound them against a common foe and helped to forge relations between the two countries, have any contemporary relevance, asks Richard Mowe ention the Auld Alliance wine trade. It felt sometimes as though I to the average French per- was teaching history to the people I met in son and they will give you bars and at parties. Though they all liked a quizzical look. If you’re to joke about kilts …” lucky they will mutter Fellow scribe Ron Butlin concurs with – en passant – something that impression. “Hopefully the days of Mabout Mary Stuart, Bonnie Prince Charlie, the common enemy have passed. We the dastardly Anglais and the wine trade. Scots certainly are more active in uphold- The French who come to live, work or ing the spirit of the Auld Alliance than the study here are quick to delve into the past French, whose picture of us still seems to to ensure they are up to speed if only so be kilts, Nessie, whisky and the occasional they do not need to look embarrassed success in rugby. Maybe this will change if every time a native mentions the bond Scotland moves towards a greater level of that started as a marriage of military con- independence.” venience. The 13th-century pact, which At the time, it suited the French to have was formally adopted as the Auld Alliance an aggressor against its rival England, by Scotland and France in 1295, commit- while the canny Scots found an added ted each country to come to the other’s bonus was being able to sell French goods aid should one be attacked. It also gave (freely imported to Scotland) over the the citizens of each country special privi- border in a black market. Adrian Laird leges in the other. Craig, president of the Franco-Scottish Rebus author Ian Rankin, who lived Business Club and a recognised wine in France for six years, certainly has the expert, believes that the French were “fair- > impression that the legacy of the Alliance weather, self-interested friends for much is rather one-sided. of history, and the “Nobody in France Scots probably laid knew of the close “We Scots certainly are too much store on ties between the the pact”. two nations, or more active in upholding the As an illustration that French royalty of this cynicism he used Scottish body- spirit of the Auld Alliance cites the fact that guards. Or the links Queen Mary was with the Bordeaux than the French” badly let down by 23 her Guise cousins who did not send her money or troops in her hours of need, and Bonnie Prince Charlie was also left in the lurch when expected support from France failed to materialise. “That does not effect the fact that there exists a deep understanding, affinity and trade between our two countries and our two cultures,” says Laird Craig. “I hope the Scottish government sounds out the major French companies involved in investment here, such as Total and energy supplier EDF, to assess their view should we devolve further or take the route to independence.” Evidence of the continuing love affair with the past can be found in the myriad bed and breakfasts bearing the Auld Alliance name the length and breadth of Scotland, including a res- taurant with rooms in Kingussie owned and run by Lydie Bocquillon, who is also the cuisinière and was mentored by Michelin-winning chefs Jacques Lameloise and Bernard Loiseau. Her grandfather was one of the finest wine producers in Burgundy and Beaujolais. She follows in a fine tradition: Our “shared” queen Mary, on her return to Scotland, brought an entourage of French staff who are considered responsible for revolution- ising Scots cooking and for some of Scotland’s unique food terminology such as “ashet” from assiette; a large that in 1942 General De Gaulle referred platter. Fred Berkmiller at L’Escargot eloquently to the strength of the Alli- Bleu restaurant in Queensferry Street ance. “He had had personal experience of is organising, along with Martin Wishart being saved by a Scottish battalion during and other top chefs, a reprise next the First World War. In the Second World month of last year’s successful cookery War he established the Free French House exchanges with Brittany. in Regent Terrace [now the French Con- While there are now more than sul’s residence] and many French naval 300,000 French people living in London officers came to Edinburgh and Glasgow. – which means that the metropolis has a Greenock has a monument where the larger French population than Lille – the Free French are celebrated every year.” representation in Scotland is more mod- Coffinier adds: “As for the independ- est, with roughly 3,000 in Edinburgh and ence issue, we are just an observer and we 1,000 in Aberdeen (major French employ- will wait to see what happens. The Alliance ers there are Total and Technip). An is more folkloric and sentimental rather estimated 2,000 students attend colleges than anything political.” and universities, while at the other end Another Frenchman whose eyes were of the education spectrum La petite école opened to Scotland’s Gallic bonds is Vin- in James Gillespie’s High School and the “French people always feel cent Guérin, director of the cultural and Grassmarket Nursery School both cater language centre, the French Institute. for bilingual pupils at an early age. more at home in Scotland Recently the Institute’s supporters galva- The diplomat who looks after the nised themselves to save it from closure French flock in Scotland, Pierre-Alain [than in England]. We share as part of overseas cutbacks by the French Coffinier, is surprised that the Alliance government. “Edinburgh and Scotland is so strongly linked to Scotland’s iden- common values, and that is had not been singled out – the cuts were tity. “I did not expect you Scots to make happening all over the place, but it would such a big deal of it,” he says, recalling what is important” have been a great pity if this little corner 24 rather romantic, all about the Celtic past and the beauty of the country. “I was a member of the Franco-Scottish Society in France so when I did my degree in politics and subsequent law degree, I used it as an excuse to come here and spent a year studying Scottish politics rather than French. Then I met a Scottish girl who loved France as much as I loved Scotland and we did a bargain of com- ing here for one year after three years in France. But we never left …” Albuisson cites many tangible ties, such as the special welcome given to French rugby supporters in Scotland and the reciprocal hospitality shown to the Scots Clockwise from left, the in France, which decidedly is not the case treaty of 1295, the effects with the English. “French people always of which reverberate, feel more at home in Scotland – and that witnessed by the certainly has been my experience,” says camaraderie between Albuisson, who believes independence Scots and French rugby would make it easier to strengthen the fans, main, and settlers relationship between France, Scotland such as Stéphane Denève, and England. “There would be many posi- above. The Stuarts, Mary, tive aspects, not least the boost to the local left, and Charles Edward, economy, the property market and an right, were let down influx of Europeans. We share common by the French, but the values, and that is what is important.” Connerys, inset, endure Tom Wight is president of the Franco- Scottish Society in Scotland, which was formed in 1895. It facilitates exchanges and organises lectures and events through- out the year. “The French usually come of France in the heart of Edinburgh had here not knowing a thing about the Auld disappeared. Once the French put the Alliance but are happy to discover it. I am history behind them they discover that always struck by the fact that the English, Scotland has a very professional attitude although geographically nearer, do not to culture which is way beyond kilts, hag- trust or even like the French. How differ- gis and tartan.” ent from the attitude here,” says Wight. An action group called, bien sûr, the Someone who has integrated harmoni- Auld Alliance Association has been set ously and seamlessly is RSNO outgoing up to keep a watchful eye over the Insti- musical director Stéphane Denève who tute and to lend it support. One of its gives up his post at the end of the season, mainstays is Christian Albuisson who themed appropriately with a Franco-Scot- works in the financial sector as well as tish flavour. “Scotland has been my home being involved in publishing and also for the last six years and its influence will importing French champagne under stay with me forever,” says Denève whose the Marie Stuart label. He was an early reign has seen attendances soar. recruit to the rallying cry of the SNP, Mixed marriages between the French becoming a member shortly after he and the Scots flourish, no more so than > arrived in Scotland more than two in the enduring relationship between decades ago. “When you come to national icon Sir Sean Connery and his Scotland you cannot escape the con- artist wife Micheline Roquebrune who nections with France – Edinburgh met at a golf tournament in Morocco and has its Little France area, named after have been married since 1975.

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