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Activismo Pró Animal Na Moda

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Activismo Pró Animal Na Moda ACTIVISMO PRÓ ANIMAL NA MODA Moda como veículo incentivador à protecção animal Tânia Sofia Ferreira dos Santos (Licenciada em Design de Moda) Dissertação para obtenção de grau de Mestre em Design de Moda Orientador Científico: Designer Manuel Alves Co-orientadora Científica: Professora Doutora Manuela Cristina Figueiredo Júri: Presidente: Doutor Fernando Moreira da Silva Vogais: Doutora Ana Cristina Broega Mestre Carla Cristina da Costa Morais LISBOA, DEZEMBRO 2010 Activismo Pró Animal na Moda Dedicatória Dedico esta Dissertação de Mestrado a todos os activistas que lutam constantemente por causas que merecem ser defendidas, principalmente aos que lutam pelos direitos dos animais e pela libertação destes. Dedico especialmente a todos os animais subjugados, explorados e usados pelo homem, para que todos um dia possam ser livres. ii Activismo Pró Animal na Moda Agradecimentos Um especial agradecimento à Professora Doutora Cristina Figueiredo que se disponibilizou a apoiar-me na realização concreta da minha dissertação, e que sempre me amparou e me deu ânimo para continuar este projecto. Ao Professor de Desenho e Ilustração, Doutor Caseirão pelo seu apoio na análise e construção das ilustrações do meu projecto, pelas suas dicas e conselhos sábios. À minha colega de turma Cláudia De Lot, que sempre se interessou pelo meu projecto e me apoiou durante a realização de toda esta dissertação. Ao Professor Doutor Moreira da Silva, pelo seu apoio como coordenador da área Científica do Projecto de Design e Design de Moda. Um imensurável obrigado a todos os activistas por causas animais que existem neste mundo, especialmente por colocarem os seus trabalhos à disposição e pelo seu contributo nesta causa. iii Activismo Pró Animal na Moda Epigrafe “The time will come when men such as I will look upon the murder of animals as they now look upon the murder of men.” Leonardo da Vinci “Auschwitz begins whenever someone looks at a slaughterhouse and thinks: they are only animals.” Theodor Adorno “Animals need only one right, the right not to be owned.” Gary Francione iv Activismo Pró Animal na Moda Resumo A presente Dissertação explora a vertente activista animal dentro do Design de Moda. Numa primeira fase de investigação do campo do activismo animal, procura-se encontrar o ponto fulcral da causa dos direitos dos animais, investigando a história da exploração animal por parte do homem, os maiores focos de exploração, organizações que lutam pelos direitos dos animais, de modo a evidenciar o ponto fulcral de defesa e justificação da escolha desta causa. Consecutivamente, a análise do campo de acção do activismo, a arte como veículo de activismo em geral e em particular no activismo animal, na pesquisa do Design de Moda como difusor desse activismo, fundamentar uma metodologia criativa na área da planificação de peças de vestuário simbólicas. Esta metodologia é colocada em prática através da concepção de duas colecções de vestuário feminino, uma compilação de T-shirts e uma colectânea conceptual de coordenados inteiros. Aplicando todas as fases criativas do Design de Moda, isto é: idealização, planificação, confecção e por último a utilização da colecção na produção de uma sessão fotográfica. Palavras-chaves: activismo pró animal, Design de Moda, metodologias de activismo na moda. v Activismo Pró Animal na Moda Abstract The present dissertation explores the animal’s activist approach inside Fashion Design. On a first investigation phase, the field on animal activism, searches to find the prime point of the animal right cause , investigating the history of animal’s exploration by men, the biggest fields of animal exploration, organizations that fight for animal’s rights, in a way to evidence the main defense and justification of the animal cause choice. Consecutively, the analysis of the playing field of activism, the art as a vehicle of activism in general and on a particular bases of animal activism, on the research of Fashion Design as a diffuser of the activism, substantiate a creative methodology in the area of planning of symbolic garments pieces. This methodology is place in practice trough the conception of two woman’s wear collection, in a compilation of T-shirts and a conceptual compendium of complete outfits. Applying all the creative phases of Fashion Design, this is: idealization, planning, confection and finally the use of the collection in a photo-shoot. Key words: Activist for animal’s, Fashion Design, methodologies of activism in Fashion. vi Activismo Pró Animal na Moda Objectivos O objectivo desta Dissertação em Mestrado de Design de Moda consiste na concepção de duas colecções de vestuário feminino com base no tema activismo pró animal, de modo a alcançar um princípio de compreensão e desenvolvimento de uma metodologia de processos lógicos utilizados na estruturação de vestuário como uma das várias formas de activismo. Alcançar um público-alvo jovem e activista, revolucionários que procuram expressar-se através do seu vestuário, através de arte que expressa a sua luta. Ambas colecções não pretendem se encaixar numa época do ano ou num grupo etário específico. Concebida para o verdadeiro activista da causa animal. vii Activismo Pró Animal na Moda Índice DEDICATÓRIA .............................................................................................................................. II AGRADECIMENTOS .................................................................................................................... III EPIGRAFE .................................................................................................................................. IV RESUMO .................................................................................................................................... V ABSTRACT ................................................................................................................................. VI OBJECTIVOS ............................................................................................................................. VII ÍNDICE DE FIGURAS ...................................................................................................................XII CAPITULO 1 - OBJECTO DE ESTUDO ........................................................................................... 20 1.1. EXPLORAÇÃO ANIMAL ........................................................................................................ 20 1.1.1. Introdução ................................................................................................................... 20 1.1.2. O homem primitivo – Antiguidade ............................................................................... 21 1.1.3. Idade média ................................................................................................................. 26 1.1.4. Época do Iluminismo ................................................................................................... 27 1.1.4. A partir de 1890 ........................................................................................................... 32 1.2. MAIORES FOCOS DE AGRESSÃO/EXPLORAÇÃO DOS ANIMAIS ...................................................... 39 1.2.1. Introdução ................................................................................................................... 39 1.2.2. Experiencias laboratoriais – animais de laboratório ................................................... 39 1.2.3. Entretenimento ............................................................................................................ 42 1.2.1.1. Zoológicos ................................................................................................................... 43 1.2.1.2. Touradas ..................................................................................................................... 44 1.2.4. Alimentação ................................................................................................................. 45 1.2.4.1. Vegetarianismo ................................................................................................................... 47 1.2.4.2. Ética vegetariana ................................................................................................................. 48 1.2.5. Produtos de vestuário e interiores ............................................................................... 52 1.2.6. Animais de companhia – domesticação ...................................................................... 55 1.2.6.1. Puppy Mill’s – Fábricas de Cachorrinhos ............................................................................. 55 1.2.6.2. Tráfico de Animais Selvagens .............................................................................................. 57 1.2.7. Desastres ambientais e industriais .......................................................................... 58 1.2.7.1. Poluição marinha ........................................................................................................ 59 1.3. ÉTICA E BIOÉTICA ANIMAL .................................................................................................. 60 viii Activismo Pró Animal na Moda 1.3.1. Direitos e propriedades ............................................................................................... 60 1.3.2. Ética animal – O valor intrínseco ................................................................................. 61 1.3.2.1. História do estatuto moral dos animais (1880-1980) ........................................................
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