Guide Arkadi.Indd
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χω την τύχη, αλλά πάνω από όλα την τιµή, να είµαι γεννηµένος σε έναν από τους πιο ευλογηµένους τόπους της Κρήτης. Σε έναν τόπο που αναθράφηκα, που γαλουχήθηκα, που έκανα τα πρώτα µου βήµατα και είπα τις πρώτες µου λέξεις. Μεγαλώνοντας σ’ Εαυτόν τον τόπο συναναστράφηκα σπουδαίους ανθρώπους, ανθρώπους µε ήθος, µε αγνή καρδιά, αξιοπρέπεια και ήθος που πάλευαν να κρατήσουν τα ήθη και τα έθιµα αυτού του τόπου, περήφανοι για τα ένδοξα έργα των προγόνων τους. Δύσκολα ο ποιητής µπορεί να περιγράψει την απαράµιλλη οµορφιά που πλανιέται ανάµεσα στους ελαιώνες που καταλήγουν µέχρι την ακροθαλασσιά, την οµορφιά του σφυρίγµατος του αγέρα µέσα στα φαράγγια, το δέος µπροστά στο ηρωικό µοναστήρι του Αρκαδιού. Δύσκολα ο ζωγρά- φος θα µπορέσει να µεταφέρει στον καµβά του το γαλάζιο του ουρανού, το αντανάκλασµα του ήλιου στους τοίχους των βενετσιάνικων αρχοντικών, το γλαυκό της πεντακάθαρης απέραντης θάλασσας που απλώνεται γύρω µας, και τον γαλήνιο ουρανό του Αυγούστου µε την πανσέληνο του. Σας προσκαλώ να έρθετε και να γνωρίσετε από κοντά τον τόπο µας. Να γευτείτε τις οµορφιές του, την ιστορία του, το παραδοσιακό φαγητό του, το κρασί και την τσικουδιά του... Να αισθανθείτε τη φιλοξενία που θα σας δοθεί χωρίς ανταλλάγµατα. Καλώς ορίσατε στον Δήµο Αρκαδίου, στον τόπο µας... και να ‘στε σίγουροι πως θα τον αγαπήσετε σαν το σπίτι σας! ΜΑΝΩΛΑΚΑΚΗΣ ΕΜΜΑΝΟΥΗΛ ΔΗΜΑΡΧΟΣ ΑΡΚΑΔΙΟΥ πάρχουν στιγµές που γυρίζω το νου µου στο παρελθόν και αναπολώ τα περασµένα, τα όµορφα περασµένα… Τις καντάδες στα καλντερίµια για τις όµορφες κοπέλες… τα πανηγύρια να γιορτάζουν την χάρη των Αγίων µας… τις βεγγέρες τα καλοκαιριάτικα Υβράδια στις γειτονιές παρέα µε τα αστέρια…Βέβαια όλα αυτά δεν απέχουν πολύ µε το σήµερα αφού ακόµα και τώρα τα συναντάς κάθε στιγµή, κάθε λεπτό, κάνοντας µια βόλτα στα όµορφα χωριά µας, περπατώντας στα πλακόστρωτα σοκάκια, χαζεύοντας τους κήπους µε τα τριαντάφυλλα, τα γιασεµιά και τα αγιοκλήµατα πληµµυρισµένα από ευωδιές και ευχές. Όταν φτάνεις στην πλατεία του χωριού ακούς µαντινάδες χαρισµένες σε σένα από τους θαµώνες του γραφικού καφενείου που φιλό-ξενα σου προσφέρουν τσικουδιά και ελιές, αγναντεύοντας από το παράθυρο από τη µια τον λεβεντογέννη Ψηλορείτη κι από την άλλη την βαθυγάλαζη απέραντη θάλασσα µέχρι εκεί που φτάνει το µάτι κι όταν όλα γίνουν ένα τότε βγαίνει το ψητό, η οφτή πατάτα και το κατακόκκινο κρασί παρέα πάντα µε τον γλυκόλαλο ήχο του λαούτου και της λύρας για ένα γλέντι µέχρι το πρωί. Για όλα αυτά λοιπόν θέλουµε να σας καλωσορίσουµε στον ΔΗΜΟ ΑΡΚΑΔΙΟΥ µε την υπόσχεση να περάσετε µαζί µας αξέχαστες στιγµές που θα µείνουν για πάντα στις ψυχές και στις καρδιές σας. ΠΟΛΙΟΥΔΑΚΗΣ ΓΙΩΡΓΟΣ ΠΡΟΕΔΡΟΣ Δ.ΕΠ.ΑΝ.AΡ The natural environment he Municipality of Arkadi, one of anna, Harkia, Amnatos, the 11 which make up the Prefec- Erfi, Skouloufia, Elefth- Tture of Rethymna, covers an area erna, Archaia Eleftherna, of 123,027 ‘stremmata’ (1 stremma = and Prinos. In the west it 1,000 sq metres). According to the cen- borders on the Munici- sus of 2001, it has a population of more pality of Rethymna, in the than 5,800 inhabitants. Its seat is at the east on the Municipality Virgin’s bower (Clematis cirrhosa), Cistus creticus, and storax (Styrax officinalis) are some of the plants found in village of Adele and it is composed of Yeropotamos, and in the region of the Municipality of Arkadi. of the following Communities: Adele, the south on the Munici- Hamalevri, Pigi, Mesi, Pangalohori, Kyri- pality of Syvritos. The forest of umbrella pines in the vicinity of the historic Monastery of Arkadi. xtending from the northern poppy anemone (Anemone coro- seashore up to the foothills naria), and aromatic inula (Inula of Psiloritis, the Municipality viscosa) etc. In the semi-moun- E creticum Cyclamen of Arkadi is harmoniously composed tainous zone there are large areas of semi-mountainous terrain and of phrygana (garrigue) in which a areas of plain. For the most part it is multitude of orchids may be found, taken up by the latter, chief among and also bushy formations of Medi- them being Adelianos Kampos (the terranean maquis, among which Adelian plain) which extends for a great the predominant species are the length along the northern coastal zone Kermes oak (Quercus coccifera), Cistus and for a considerable distance south- creticus, and strawberry tree (Arbutus wards. Both Adelianos Kampos and the unedo). greater part of the Municipality of Arkadi Particular mention should be made of are areas suited to cultivation, which the Arkadi gorge which begins from consists mainly of olive groves. The area Arkadi Monastery and after a walk of under olive cultivation in the Municipal- around 2 hours ends at the village of ity is considered to be one of the largest Pikris. The gorge is of exquisite natural and most important in the Mediterra- beauty and the visitor will be able to see nean. In addition - mainly in the coastal representative species of Cretan flora zone – open air or hothouse cultivation there, as well as fossils. Arrival at Pikris of vegetables is carried on to a consider- with its magnificent Venetian buildings able extent, as is the growing of vines. more than compensates for any fatigue The landscape of the Municipality is felt by the walker. An important monu- characterized by a rich diversity, and ment of nature is constituted by Fantax- changes according to its altitude above ospiliara, at Prinos. This imposing cave sea level. In the shore zone, the sea lily has a total length of 210 metres and (Pancratium Maritimum) and also rare consists of 11 chambers, two of which formations of Centaurea spinosa are contain wonderful stalactite and stalag- to be found. Of great importance is mite decoration. the presence of the sea turtle Caretta- caretta, which lays its eggs in the sands; a significant and systematic attempt is being made to protect it. Olive groves predominate in the plain, along with countless species of wild flowers such as the crown daisy (Chry- santhemum coronarium), the crown or Myrtus comunis Over the course of time he continuous, uninterrupted Clay figurine of a goddess with raised arms from with the rest of Greece was proclaimed in Pangalohori. Rethymnon Archaeological Museum. presence of Man in what is now 1913. Thereafter the island participated in Tthe Municipality of BC) and the Roman period (67 the events which have shaped the his- Arkadi has been demonstrated BC-323 AD). tory of the nation - in fierce struggles such during all phases of history. In 535 AD, during the 1st as those against the German occupying Thus, from the Early Minoan pe- Byzantine period, Eleftherna be- forces which destroyed many villages in riod (2600-2000 BC) onwards, we can came the seat of a Bishopric. In the the Cretan countryside, among them a speak with certainty of the exist- centuries that followed, encompass- number in the area constituting the Munic- ence of settlement in the places ing the period of Arab occupation ipality of Arkadi. known as Hamalevri and Pyrgi (824 AD-961 AD), the 2nd Byzantine Eleftherna; occupation continued period (961-1210), and the period of at Hamalevri during the Middle Mi- Venetian occupation (121-1669), life noan period (2000-1600 BC). Where in the area which is now the Munici- the Late Minoan period (1600-1100 BC) is pality of Arkadi continued normally and Wall-painting from the concerned, traces of habitation have been without interruption, keeping pace with Byzantine church of found at Peristeres Eleftherna, and the cave developments and producing wonderful Ayios Dimitrios in the vil- lage of the same name. of Fantaxospiliara in the district of Prinos works of art and culture, particularly during must have been used as a place of worship. the period of the Cretan Renaissance. The important city of Eleftherna began to The Monastery of Arkadi was founded dur- make its presence known from the Early ing the 14th or 15th century; it was des- Geometric period onwards (1100-900 BC), tined to play an important role throughout and was to produce evidence of an unin- the period of Turkish occupation, culmi- terrupted artistic development throughout nating in the holocaust of 1866 which all the subsequent phases of antiquity: the defined Arkadi as a universal symbol of Geometric period (900-650 BC), the Archaic heroism. After the Turkish yoke was thrown period (650-500 BC), the Classical period off and following the period known as (500-330 BC), the Hellenistic period (330-67 that of the Cretan State, the union of Crete Detail from a plan by Fr. Basilicata, 1618. Arkadi Monastery in a water-colour painting by Edward Lear, 1876. Eleftherna eastern side of the hill) Professor P. Theme- lis has uncovered part of the settlement including Hellenistic walls, Roman build- ings, baths and an Early Christian basilica with mosaic decoration (below). he excavations begun in 1985 by the University of Crete in the area of the Tmodern villages of Eleftherna and Archaia Eleftherna have brought to light important sections of the ancient city. Archaeological interest is concentrated on a hill between two converging torrent- beds. In the place known as ‘Orthi Petra’ (on the western side of the hill), Professor N. Top to bottom: Stampolidis has discovered a necropolis of From the excavations at ‘Orthi Petra’. the Geometric and Archaic periods, as well A bridge dating from the Hellenistic period can be as Hellenistic and Roman buildings which found north of the ancient city, by following the stream which passes to the west of the hill of Pyrgi. were constructed on top of the older structures. In the place called ‘Pyrgi’ (on top In the region of Eleftherna, a visit is worthwhile to the fortified tower which stands on the hill; it must have of the hill), Professor Ath.