THE ."MEW COL-CMS ARE EUT TME OLD RENAMED Old Colors with Fresh Names DecK. Picturesque , Flower amid Trimmed, and Wide-S&irtod, Billowy FrocRs, While the Harem SRirt of Bizarre Aspect Keeps Com¬ pany with Modest Mittened Sleeves and ¦ Quaint Sailors of Pleated Straw.

FAMOUS designer In Paris, who to Ma will want to benefit their age and the requirements of a brim waa quite flat and the soft and low. The not only in the walking and the street , with genius for originality ..dds a profound knowl- busy life«. flowers were large, and they seemed half roses, half its fairly plain, wide , but in afternoon and evening e.iice ol the eternal feminine, never forgets to camelias; they were mide of hand painted tafleta as well. \ MERELY TWO . his «and even some rename colors, his materials, In which had been rendered shower-proof by mys¬ Frequently worn with this abbreviated street frock were tints of ot the year. One of the novel Ideas of the present season Is the terious process, and the colors pastel is a new species of high shoe which is decidedly at¬ ô(«prxgt*nc and f*recn. flower was , or , trimmed with hatpins! This aeema pink, blue, lemon yellow Bach tractive. This shoe, which is a of the test .*, ji honest In his programme of change, for perfection quite a of a different color, and feathery mounts, in black horse worn are rather strange statement, but It contains the germs «hoes of curious lacing during the winter, often I fact that the dyes and fabrics he produces worn with it was one Id of an fact The most attractive I have hair, waved over the brim. To ba reaches to mid-way between ankle and knee. Of thin, they may not be absolutely new. They important and bordered .^though seen this have been trimmed with hatpins and of the new collars made of striped silk leather, which delicately, they are laced . spring plastic glistens very -vals and revivals of a past period, white muslin. At the back .ja,, nothing else. Hut what exquisite hatpins! And how with a narrow pleating of inconspicuou 'y, not in the front, as they have been urith fresh names his customers take an awakened and in front jagt this cellar was square, in the sailor , for centuries, not on the inside or the back, but on the ta them and ill is well. "Wha«, would yott?" original! interest was fastened by link studs made of cut crystal outside. They outline the ankle in a snug and flatter¬ he ore day. with a good humored shrug of the There is, for a of miniature fans, half Hid example, pair ing manner, and make the brevity of the skirt less pro¬ "Women must always have something new. made of fine black straw and embroidered in Jap¬ Some of the new sailor shipes are very cheerful and -fcaejders- open, nounced. I have seen these only in dark brown and in tv. icea." anese beads. These festive. They are made cf plaited -traw in several dif¬ ..nar.e style, with very small porcelain black, but it is probable that they will he reproduced were on and thrust ferent colors, and the crown of the hat is covered with little fans mounted gun metal pins in the various other boot shades. Doubtles« the fash¬ MILITARY 3LUES. crown a dark blue crêpe de chine or chiffon velvet in one of the leading through the domed of perfectly plain ion for this short skirt ha. arisen from the military satin . One fan touched the brim of the hat tints. For example, there was a flat brim made of royal spring the new names are very significant. rather than as a concession to the present danc¬ This while the other out from the side blue, crimson, black and white straws, with a domed vogue are two blues, for example, one called .at the left side, jutted There lovely crown blue and a of ing exigencies. after the brave Queen of the Belgians and of the crown in coquettish fashion. covered with royal crêpe trimming cjiiibeth two cone-shaped hatpins thickly coveted with black jet Never before have departed so drastically from .-.ether Joffre, alter the great French general. Both are CRIMSON ROSEBUDS. .¿arle ad clear in effect and combine well with white which in taf- A second of more hut ef¬ g g darker Mue in the pencil-line checks pair pins, ordinary equally Darker were made of dark crimson framed ®>.(l/? .eta sre among fashion's spring offerings. fective, rosebuds, stem the metal blues ~e have also in our inseparable friend navy and in brown leaves, the rough covering pin. and mot-t made ¿s sombre corbeau shade, and thus are provided with The buds were rather large beautifully which had almost the tex¬ ants for the tailor-made as well as for the picture of specially prepared chiffon weie stuck into UM ture of real rose petals; they carelessly the crown of a black satin tiicome. Cover* coatings ar.d fine cor r* ths In sand and reen-brcuv** tints will be very useful this spring, and For ordinary wear the newest hatpins are those made straw or cf iridescent be.ids massed .or finer materials there will be many variations of of plaited together are to be «How, all soft and tinged with some other dye. Thus on a carefully padded cone. These ornaments we trace a hint of had in almost all colors and also in jet. Some a that exquisite color ripe corr sparkling ethers are of rrown ari in melon there is a suspicion of green. of them are large and important looking, modest dimensions but beautifully made. The rr-=e tints might have been copied direct from SMALL HAT. ..:¦. ..res that have suggested also the softest THE LATEST of the blues ar.d tender mauves, from ate Yesterday afternoon I spent a pleasant ho r in the is to Lancret and Nattier of the say, by showrooms of a famous milliner noted for the costly ¿linty dames of old. or precious Fragonard tapestries simplicity of her models. of elegant shepherdesses and their attendant squires. these showrroms I saw several very lovel. spring NATURE. In ART.AND hats and toques, notibly one made cf navy blue suède. with a dark blue suède tens (annot imitate anything more lovely than It was a round shape, fine blue straw. As gray is so evidertly already a crown and a turned-up brim made of dabudding foliage with of favorite choice, it is sure to extend its vegue in teffeta, The suede crown was decorated applications k the form of conven¬ - hot silks that recall tl e "old lady" vogues of pastel-tinted Straw»» w!::ch to fl wers leaves, made the past, especially their demure-.ess and dignity. Lace tional asters. Prom these large black velvet, fell over the brim of .. v. he worn, and particularly with the delicate of stamped loosely with one dan sr.d silver-gray silks, as flounces and fichus and, the hat, and at the back there was a bow, long This was an «¦sat is more, as of the drapery order, with long, end, of black* chiffon velvet. extremely Parisian model; one which could only have been de¬ iJiring ends. blue and white taffeta «leeve« and signed by a gieat artist. HpHE satin-striped Tbc ¡s to he kept well in .** peplum »et in the jaunty blue coat, would delight In the same atelier I saw a charming toque trimmed Eght this spring.a very happy decision for all, permit- the heart of an artist because of the charming contrast roses of which I in a recent r" ind encouraging, as it Joes, those modifications of with the new taffeta spoke which it achieves. was of turban but the à» more extraordinary new modes that many women article. Thic shape also outline,

which was applied in gathers the softly puffing skirt. The sleeves of certain of the afternoon and evening f .r-n an interesting note of variance. They have carried one step further the suggestion made by the ruffled skirt, with its not infrequent hoop, and its haircloth stiffening. It is not mittens that are worn with these gowns, but mitten sleeves. Of transparent tulle, of lace, or even chiffon, they descend below ihe wrist and are caught about the thumb in imitation of the dainty and elegant gloves of former times. In an evening this is fetching, and particularly so in a dainty morning frock for the summer, such as a certain dress of fine white organdie es >e« ally designed for the seashore. Its extreme simplic>y was responsible for It appeal, for us lightly bloused was quite as plain in line as was »he simple full s!:irt, guiltless of fold or ruffle. The only trimming, outside cf the dsrk blue piping which emphasized ti e mitten effect of the sleeve's end, was a fine bugle bead trimming of sap¬ phire, worked dee; !y over the bottom of the 6kirt, on the blouse and on the sleeves. The fact that the gown is washable is an ad led surprise when one notes the seeming delicacy of the whole. PUFFED BETWEEN RIBBON BANDS. In the evening gowns the sleeves do not scruple to be long. In the daintiest of them, fully formal frocks for the very young girl, one finds lace coming down to the wrist, or, as in the case of a particularly beautiful white taffeta and tulle gown, far down, almost to the linger tips. These sleeves were of chiffon, and be¬ tween two ribbon bands, just above and below the wrist, there was a slight puff, and the ruffle depending from this was very full and selvage edged. The bodice, V shape back and front, was of tulla, with curiously inverted raglan effect marked with 6hirring which was concealed by white crystal bugle heads of the non-transparent variety. The skirt was made of a series of alternating taffeta and tulle bands, very broad, the tulle being beautifully embroidered with crystal beads. Simplicity is the keynote of several of the new walking frocks which HE English woman'* walking suit i» frankly unrestricted in it* freedom of line. Clearly designed for her is in the ateliers of Paris. While the of T* of have just been exhibited majority «.*¦ tan brown cloth, with bright waittcoat and militant collar green and white striped corduroy. thi* gro» grain them are in dark blue serge, taffeta or peau de laine, a few particularly at the of blue peau de laine »urmounU a tete de nègre faille «kirt, with hem of peau The daring Zouave jacket right, attractive have been made in the lighter neutral shades, with more lain«. de than one note of distinction to add to the interest of them. The wide Puritan collar and cuffs, of plain materia!, add piquant reserve to what v/ould otherwise be an ordinary frock. white and as have this In the uneven manner beads. Or, again, a similar ha* mads o; red, usage they year. If one has a plain gray ser^e or c!oth fro.it, even a taffeta, i; the skirt vith black in which are from the in the blue straws had a crown covered tightly they hung waist!;ne, «.ag- is fairly wide and short, and ;f it fits to the waist line, one may make ot a g-.-g, the o. the pointed lower cdrje, in the crêpe and the hatpins covered with jet paillettes, baby scalloped it a dress of exceeding smartness merely by adding this wide collar, that from the harem bottom, out the r.ot on that a ostrich feather.black, of course.springing they utterly fistens at the middle of the throat and rolls down midway to the shoulder«. skirt must be straight all around the hem. In many 'ip of each. It is only slightly stiffened and is of linen. The cuffs are the fullness is all _t the sides, and this seems to pull correspondingly broad. These were the notes of a gray dress FLOWERS AND FRUIT MADE OF BEADS them down at the bottom becaue of the extra weight. distinguishing designed by Martial & Armand, of which one remarked save the V«n The harem skirt, a new oi that fashion nothing Dyke¬ in and are being vry interpretation like collar and cufis. Small beads, glass pore-lain, so and to the Occidental mind, is this I have mysterious piquant to much used for millinery purposes spring. rr.eiely the turning under of the bottom of the skirt, Even simpler was a covert cloth street dress which had nothing seen bunches of d.,rk blue gr«,-es, set in black velvet recommend it save the of the cut and the manner in which the braid, on to a narro1.«/er lu.ing gat "-red .»bout an elastic ba..d. beauty which were macie, or. rather covered entirely, was unu sleeves. The leaves, This causes the skirt to billow in a way which is sug¬ self-colored, applied to the ually graceful raglan girdle with iridescent beads. You might suppose that these was at waist line and outlined in colored embroid¬ gestive, in a very faint w y, of the blocmer. narrow, tight the gray would be but this is not the case. and but an inch grapes very heavy, This was one of the distinguishing features of a blue ery while «t each side, strapping over the girdle hanging beads are so that seem to weigh nothing, This too. had a The tiny they silk evening gown of Cheruit origination, and it was o: so flatly, was at similarly colorea oblon_ pocket. frock, are mounted over wee wire frames. on the Martial * and they tins feature mote than any other whic'i saved the very cavalier collar, but it was much smaller than the collar In front with self-color bone buttona. The skirt, which at th< heg r.nin*» «**' last season plain frock from « ros*'!*!« hardness of contour. The Armand gown. It closed fairly large dress of Lanvin, it was inimitable because of to be short, has more than fulfilled its predic¬ line of decolletage was an up-orve which crossed over It was utterly simp!", this yei b. «mart aad frminine, with . p.quant tou-h of promised TH**»u-t iml,«,!,, h not alway. r-pre.t.v-* of tererity. It may the skirt ol ozen the chest from armpit to arm- is utterly unre¬ the artistic use of seam, gore -if | det. at the or ,t may impart tion. It is far shorter than .. covert br.id and button, «hown Wt, in it was one , « huh »-nbine flowers set b'*"Jing. ¡. Ü,. ...vy blu- whipcord, with pewter f m Faiis cem s **.ord t may lieved save by the silver lace which emerged the Worn with of the faUU embroidered in wor.ted. In the years ago, and ,C'rl*"> «if of Btotalhaaaa. -* depicted by the central figure, with it. grav »he without form of small cape sleeves. The simple straight b flatly about the crown, with a softening eflea ot wheatlike feather The band, of t.ffet. on he raised more than a foot from ground *+*y bel,,d ,u,t .1 lb« the li.ie. cxpre.« .implieity and terviceability. .reduated the waistline in Iront in a *. right, of the cloth. exciting undue comment. One finds this characteristic jutted below point, under trimming -1"'«. «nd the white wa»tc«t. jade button-trimmed, «et off well the neutral du.t brown gro. grata