Best Workbenches
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The Essential Block Plane How to Choose and Use Woodworking’S Most Popular Trimmer
The Essential Block Plane How to choose and use woodworking’s most popular trimmer By Craig Bentzley It’s no secret that I love hand plane. Available in a variety of What to look for planes and own way too many in a block plane of them–about 250 at last it’s small, relatively inexpensive, As shown in Figure 1 and count. Many of them perform andconfigurations even kind of (as cute. shown But above),it’s Photo A, a block plane is a highly specialized tasks and fairly basic tool. That said, for don’t see use very often. But up and tuned, a good quality good performance, avoid cheap, there’s one type of plane that’s blockdefinitely plane not is aadept toy. Properly at handling set rudimentary hardware store a stand-out exception: the block all sorts of shop chores and is versions. The most important plane. In fact, when I’m asked likely to become one of your most features to look for in a good by beginning woodworkers used hand tools. I’ll discuss what what plane they should to look for in a good block plane, reliable and easy-to-use depth-of- start out with, that’s the one how to set one up, and how to cutblock adjustment, plane include and a an flat adjustable sole, a that always tops the list. use it to your best advantage. throat. You’ll also want the tool The ubiquitous block plane Once you make friends with to feel comfortable in your hand. is probably owned by more a block plane, you’ll wonder Unlike most bench planes, the people than any other hand how you did without one. -
Pad Foot Slipper Foot
PAD FOOT SLIPPER FOOT The most familiar foot of the To me, the slipper foot is the three, the pad foot has plenty most successful design for of variations. In the simplest the bottom of a cabriole leg, and most common version the especially when the arrises 3 rim of the foot is ⁄4 in. to 1 in. on the leg are retained and off the floor and its diameter gracefully end at the point is just under the size of the of the foot. There’s a blend leg blank. A competent 18th- of soft curves and defined century turner easily could edges that just works. This have produced it in less than particular foot design was 5 minutes, perhaps explaining taken from a Newport tea its prevalence. This is my table in the Pendleton House interpretation of a typical New collection at the Rhode Island England pad foot. School of Design Museum. 48 FINE WOODWORKING W270BR.indd 48 7/3/18 10:24 AM A step-by-step guide to creating three distinct period feet for the cabriole leg BY STEVE BROWN One Leg, Three Feet n the furniture making program at North Bennet Street School, students usually find inspiration for Itheir projects in books from our extensive library. They’ll find many examples of period pieces, but SLIPPER FOOT TRIFID FOOT they’ll also find more contemporary work. What they won’t find is any lack of possibilities. Sometimes limit- To me, the slipper foot is the The trifid foot is similar to the ing their options is the hard part. -
Woodriver Planes, I’Ll Admit That I Had Some Misgivings About Putting Myself in the Crossfire
HOT NEW TOOL REVIEW WoodRiver Exclusive Planes Tester: Craig Bentzley fter reading some heated Internet Athreads about the WoodRiver planes, I’ll admit that I had some misgivings about putting myself in the crossfire. Then, I thought about the guy looking to buy his first block or bench plane on a limited budget. Price is important, especially today. (I had been woodworking for 15 years before I could afford my first Bed Rock.) That said, no tool is a bargain if it doesn’t work properly. So, out of pure curiosity, I accepted the assignment to examine and test the first editions of the WoodRiver block and bench planes. First, the facts. The bench planes where I checked them for flatness and perfect until I checked them during this (Nos. 3, 4, 5 and 6) are modeled after the side-to-sole perpendicularity and then test. The sides measured out of square by Stanley “Bed Rock,” which went out of subjected them to a general inspection. an average of about .5°, about the same production in 1943. These new planes In total, I spent about 45 minutes on each as my vintage planes. The castings are feature a solid, machined frog (see photo, bench plane before it was ready to use. heavier than my Bed Rocks, and tougher below) designed to reduce blade chatter, Not bad considering some vintage planes too. One of the shortcomings of the old and a three-screw adjustment system that need over four hours of fettling and often planes was the tendency of the cast iron allows for throat adjustments without require a blade and chipbreaker upgrade. -
Low-Angle and Standard Block Planes the Veritas® Block Planes Measure 61/2" Long by 2" Wide
Low-Angle and Standard Block Planes The Veritas® Block Planes measure 61/2" long by 2" wide. The body is ductile cast iron, a material much more durable as well as more stable than gray iron, having been fully stress relieved. The body is accurately machined so that the sole is fl at, the sides are square to the sole, and the bed is fl at and square to the sides. The large side wings increase stability for shooting and the unique triple fi nger grip indentations provide comfort and control. The plane’s adjustable mouth may be closed to a narrow slit for fi ne shavings with minimum tear-out or opened for heavier cuts. Adjustment is done quickly and easily with a brass locking knob. The 15/8" blade, at 1/8" (0.125") thick, is 11/2 times the thickness of standard (0.080") plane blades, and is available in either A2 tool steel hardened to Rc60-62 or O1 tool steel hardened to Rc58-60. The excellent damping qualities of the blade combined with the solid bed and clamping system virtually eliminate chatter under all conditions. The low-angle block plane has a bed angle of 12° and the standard block plane has a bed angle of 20°. The blade has a fi nely ground bevel of 25°. The lever cap is molded to comfortably fi t the palm of the hand, as well as to securely hold the blade directly over the bed at the front and on a large clamping pad at the rear. -
March 2007 No. 126 Chaff from the President
The Disp ays from Chat+anooga page 4 I Committee ~eports page 6 fo Raise Children's Confidence, Teach page 10 Collection Spotlight page ~ 2 Update for Stanley No. 120 Block Plane page • 8 Stanley No. 164 Low Angle Block P1are page 26 I M-WTCA Auxiliary page 30 A Pub · cation of the M" d-West Tool Col ectors Association What's It page 35 M-WTCA.ORG Teaching Children About 'lbols story begin:::; on page 10 March 2007 No. 126 Chaff From The President Its spring and time to think about the your horizons by taking in the architecture, art, all the things you and your partner decorative arts, and fine food. Make some new friends, can do to maximize your enjoyment and share experiences with old friends along the way. and the fun you can have in the wonderful world of tool collecting. Hopefully you travel together and share the fun of visiting new places, and experiencing the wonders the world has to offer. Perhaps you enjoy seeing the magnificent creations in architecture, sculpture, and painting produced in different places and during different historical periods. Perhaps you prefer the decorative arts, furniture, textiles, and smaller artifacts, such as tools of the many trades and crafts, which have been refined and perfected over centuries to improve our way of life. Along the way you might enjoy an occasional meal in a splendid It might also be a good time to re-evaluate your restaurant that serves marvelous cuisine. Whatever collection. Have your interests changed? Do you need your tastes, it is the fun of doing it, and the overall to refocus, improve the way your collection is displayed, broadening of your experience of life that matters. -
Bench Mallet Mortise
Hand woodworking Hand woodworking Plane an adjacent side at 90° to 3 the face side – use a try square to check for squareness. Then, with a marking gauge set to 63mm, score around the block. This will delineate the width of the mallet. Plane down to the score line. You will now have two sides parallel – repeat the marking and planing process for the other two sides, setting the marking gauge to 90mm and checking for squareness. Leave the PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL T COLLINS wood longer than required – we will adjust the length in a later stage. Using a mortise gauge set to the 2 3 4width of your 25mm chisel, draw a 50mm long mortise centred on the top of the head ... ... and a 38mm long mortise 5centred on the underside. Extend the mortise lines to the Making a 6 face side, then use a bevel gauge to join up the lines across the face sides – this will give you the required angle of the mortise. It will also give you an X-ray view of the internal angle of the Bench mallet mortise. Chopping the mortise 4 5 In Issue 6 we showed you how to make a green Using a brace and 25mm bit, drill woodworking mallet, now 7 a hole vertically halfway through Michael T Collins What you will need: the wood and then repeat from the gives us a refined design for cabinetmakers • Try square other side. It’s important to try to drill • Ruler through the centre of the wood in t’s hard to imagine being a (Quercus virginiana), a very dense and • Mortise gauge order to meet the hole coming from Brace woodworker and not having a heavy wood. -
Sharpen a Scraper... and Put It to Work Turn a Hook and Watch the Shavings fl Y by Andy Rae
Sharpen a Scraper... and Put It To Work Turn a hook and watch the shavings fl y By Andy Rae When smoothing wood, I reach for a rectangle of steel called a card scraper. Despite its humble appearance, a card scraper is remarkably versatile remove hardened glue, smooth at re�ining surfaces. It will exposed joints, and smooth and level dif�icult woods and it more maneuverable than a planea �inish. for Its reaching small size into makes tight spots, so you can preserve your supply of sandpaper. A scraper does it better, faster and without annoying dust. Scrapers come in all sorts beof shapesused in and specially sizes, includingdesigned planescurved and and scraper pro�iled. holders. Some can But my daily scraper is the card scraper, either thin (0.020- 0.025") or thick (0.30-.0.040") depending on the job at hand. Thinner scrapers excel at delicate work, where light cuts and 24 woodcraftmagazine.com Oct/Nov 2015 Sharpen a Scraper... and Put It To Work Scraper job descripti on scrapers are best for heavier work:�inesse smoothing are required. tabletops, Thicker removing milling marks, and the like. For most applications, the scraping work is done by a small hook along the working edge. With a little practice, you can use this tool to produce tiny shavings, even on hard and when worked with a plane. �igured woods that show tearout Smoothing fi gured wood is Leveling between coats enables to work properly, and I’ll show the perfect scraper assignment you to remove drips and other youScrapers how this require can be sharpening done with a because planing the workpiece surface irregulariti es in order to few basic tools. -
Tools and Their Uses NAVEDTRA 14256
NONRESIDENT TRAINING COURSE June 1992 Tools and Their Uses NAVEDTRA 14256 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A : Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Although the words “he,” “him,” and “his” are used sparingly in this course to enhance communication, they are not intended to be gender driven or to affront or discriminate against anyone. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A : Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. NAVAL EDUCATION AND TRAINING PROGRAM MANAGEMENT SUPPORT ACTIVITY PENSACOLA, FLORIDA 32559-5000 ERRATA NO. 1 May 1993 Specific Instructions and Errata for Nonresident Training Course TOOLS AND THEIR USES 1. TO OBTAIN CREDIT FOR DELETED QUESTIONS, SHOW THIS ERRATA TO YOUR LOCAL-COURSE ADMINISTRATOR (ESO/SCORER). THE LOCAL COURSE ADMINISTRATOR (ESO/SCORER) IS DIRECTED TO CORRECT THE ANSWER KEY FOR THIS COURSE BY INDICATING THE QUESTIONS DELETED. 2. No attempt has been made to issue corrections for errors in typing, punctuation, etc., which will not affect your ability to answer the question. 3. Assignment Booklet Delete the following questions and write "Deleted" across all four of the boxes for that question: Question Question 2-7 5-43 2-54 5-46 PREFACE By enrolling in this self-study course, you have demonstrated a desire to improve yourself and the Navy. Remember, however, this self-study course is only one part of the total Navy training program. Practical experience, schools, selected reading, and your desire to succeed are also necessary to successfully round out a fully meaningful training program. THE COURSE: This self-study course is organized into subject matter areas, each containing learning objectives to help you determine what you should learn along with text and illustrations to help you understand the information. -
T&T Tool List
The Krenov School Fine Woodworking Program T&T Tool List The following items will defnitely be needed: ⦿ Tape measure and small ruler. ⦿ Small bevel gauge. ⦿ Wheel style marking gauge (Veritas, Glen Drake, or equal; better suited to modest work than blocky wood types). ⦿ Combination square (12” Starrett, PEC, Igage, Fowler, or similar quality). Te ruler is used often as a straight edge, so avoid the hardware store variety. ⦿ 4" (or 6” if you already have it) double or combination square (Starrett, Lee Valley, PEC, or similar quality). ⦿ Low angle(12.5 degrees) block plane, preferably 1⅜". It's worth spending money on these; avoid the new Stanley #60-½ and Record of any vintage. Lie Nielsen, Veritas, Bench Dog are all good options. We have also seen issues with the new Stanley sweethearts so beware. Vintage low angle block planes can also be tuned up if you have one, but they do require effort. Hock irons can be purchased here to improve their performance as well. Most people have found that the Lie Nielsen is best bang for the buck. ⦿ Small dovetail saw (Western or Japanese). Inexpensive saws for dovetailing will be available for sale. ⦿ Hand scraper. ⦿ Burnishing tool. ⦿ Set of chisels 1/ 8" to 1" or wider. Te smaller ones are used more. ⦿ Files: 4" mill smooth, 6-8" mill bastard and an inexpensive set of needle fles. We will have a few fles available for purchase as well. ⦿ Hock Irons(1 ½” and 1 ¾” Krenov Style) for making your wooden planes will be available for sale at the school. Te cost for the 2 will be $100 and is not included in the registration or materials fee. -
Woodworking Glossary, a Comprehensive List of Woodworking Terms and Their Definitions That Will Help You Understand More About Woodworking
Welcome to the Woodworking Glossary, a comprehensive list of woodworking terms and their definitions that will help you understand more about woodworking. Each word has a complete definition, and several have links to other pages that further explain the term. Enjoy. Woodworking Glossary A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z | #'s | A | A-Frame This is a common and strong building and construction shape where you place two side pieces in the orientation of the legs of a letter "A" shape, and then cross brace the middle. This is useful on project ends, and bases where strength is needed. Abrasive Abrasive is a term use to describe sandpaper typically. This is a material that grinds or abrades material, most commonly wood, to change the surface texture. Using Abrasive papers means using sandpaper in most cases, and you can use it on wood, or on a finish in between coats or for leveling. Absolute Humidity The absolute humidity of the air is a measurement of the amount of water that is in the air. This is without regard to the temperature, and is a measure of how much water vapor is being held in the surrounding air. Acetone Acetone is a solvent that you can use to clean parts, or remove grease. Acetone is useful for removing and cutting grease on a wooden bench top that has become contaminated with oil. Across the Grain When looking at the grain of a piece of wood, if you were to scratch the piece perpendicular to the direction of the grain, this would be an across the grain scratch. -
PLYWOOD MALLET.Pdf
PLYWOOD MALLET Slick method of making a mallet - never need to worry about the handle loosening. See my earlier post re ergonomic parameters, apparently you should determine the bevel angle on the striking face based on mallet handle length and the length of your arm from elbow to wrist. Who knew. With three layers of 3/4" plywood, it's 2-1/4" wide, maybe just add a 1/2" layer on each side if you need something a little beefier - or maybe build in a cavity and fill it with lead shot?. The handle winds up only 3/4" thick, thinking that maybe an additional 1/4" layer on either side would let you get a little more rounded profile to the grip area - easy enough to do though (maybe make patterns to use on the router table) and Baltic Birch plywood would be the way to go. Mallet Head Angle By swirt on March 30, 2011 at 6:30 am in techniques, tools I’ve seen this issue come up and get discussed on several forums. A joiners mallet is pretty simple to make, so it is a quick and satisfying shop project to get one constructed, but then the question arises, “what angle should be put on the head?” This is an important question with advice ranging from “we don’t need no stinking angle” to use the angle that allows it to sit flat on a bench. I discovered the answer to this question in a few old Timber Framing books. It makes sense that a Timber Framer would have the answer, as they do more chiseling than most woodworkers, and certainly heavier chiseling than all. -
CLASSIC WORKBENCH Design, Construction Notes & Techniques
BENCHCRAFTED CLASSIC WORKBENCH Design, Construction Notes & Techniques Copyright, Benchcrafted December 2016 www.benchcrafted.com 1 DESIGN When we set out to design a new workbench for our customers, from the very beginning we decided it should, above all, be simple. Not only in function, but also to build. We make no bones about it, our vises are designed and made to work sweetly, but not to a price point. However, not everyone is ready for their ultimate Split Top Roubo bench build, either monetarily, or technically. For those looking to get their feet wet in traditional woodworking, using time-proven techniques and tools, this bench will provide all the workholding required to test the waters. For many, this will be all the bench you need, and for others it will be an excellent springboard to our Split Top Roubo, while keeping the Classic as a second bench. The Classic Workbench is based largely on the famous Plate 11 workbench from Roubo’s “The Art of the Joiner”. We’ve built dozens of these “Roubo” benches over the past decade, helped others build hundreds more and examined extant French benches from the period. We’ve haven’t changed our opinion on this fundamental design. The Classic is a simpler, easier to build version of Roubo’s Plate 11 bench that captures all the functionality of Roubo’s design. French technical schools of the late 19th and early 20th centuries were outfitted with benches just like this. Paring down the bench to its essentials, we’ve incorporated our Classic Leg Vise, Planing Stop and Holdfast as workholding devices.