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Table Saw Sled by Adam Henley – Woodshopessentials.Club

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Table Saw Sled by Adam Henley – Woodshopessentials.Club Table Saw Sled by Adam Henley – woodshopessentials.club The perfect table saw companion. This sled handles longer narrow boards like rails, stiles, aprons, and legs. It’s also deep enough for cutting panels up to 20” wide. With the toggle clamp assembly you can safely cut small pieces too. The miter guide is great for cutting quick and accurate 45s. The fence t-track and stop- block makes accurate measurements and repetitive cutting a breeze. Designed so you can build any attachments you need using the t-track system. (2) Table Saw Sled Contents Exploded View ................................................................................. 4 3 Dimensional Isometric Views .............................................................. 5 2 Dimensional Plan Views .................................................................... 6 Dimensions ..................................................................................... 7 STEP 1 – Prep the Fences ..................................................................... 8 STEP 2 – The Sled Base ........................................................................ 8 STEP 3 – Finish and Attach the Fences ................................................... 11 STEP 4 – Accessories ......................................................................... 13 Finishing Up .................................................................................. 16 Using the Accessories ....................................................................... 17 APPENDIX A – Cutting dados on the table saw. .......................................... 19 APPENDIX B – Cutting dados with a plunge router. ..................................... 20 APPENDIX C – Working with acrylic (plastic) ............................................. 22 APPENDIX D – Creating hardwood miter slot runners ................................... 23 APPENDIX E – 5-cut squaring method ..................................................... 24 APPENDIX F – Cutting your 45° Miter Guide .............................................. 26 2 (2) Table Saw Sled BITS & TOOLS HARDWARE & MATERIAL • 1/16” drill bit (1mm) • (x5) 1/4”-20 x 1-1/2” (40mm) hex bolt • 7/64” drill bit (2.5mm) • (x5) 1/4”-20 wing nut • 3/16” drill bit (5mm) • #8 x 1/2” (12mm) wood screws as needed • 9/32” drill bit (7mm) • #8 x 2” (50mm) wood screws as needed • 5/16” drill bit (8mm) • (x2) #6 x 1/2” (12mm) pan head wood screws • Countersink bit • 1/4” flat washers as needed • 3/4” spade or forstner drill bit (20mm) • Toggle clamp • Drill press, or drill • 3/4” aluminum t-track for 1/4”-20 hex-bolts • Table Saw • PVA Wood glue as needed • Hack saw or band saw (to cut T-track) • Plunge router • 1/2” straight cut router bit • Jig Saw • Card scraper (or sanding block) • Miter saw (optional) 2. CUTTING LIST Part Material Qty. Dimensions (inches) Dimensions (mm) A – Sled Base 3/4” birch plywood 1 48” x 23-1/8” 1200 x 578 B – Front Fence 3/4” birch plywood 2 22” x 4” 550 x 100 C – Main Fence 3/4” birch plywood 1 48” x 5” 1200 x 125 D – Main Fence 3/4” birch plywood 1 48” x 5” 1200 x 125 E – Runner 3/4” oak or hard maple 2 23-1/8” x 1/4” 578 x 6 F – Clamp Platform 3/4” oak or hard maple 1 4” x 2-1/2” 100 x 63 G – Stop Block 3/4” oak or hard maple 1 3-5/8” x 3” 91 x 75 H – Miter Guide 3/4” birch plywood 1 12” x 12” 300 x 300 I – Blade Block 3/4” birch plywood 2 5-1/4” x 4” 131 x 100 J - Stop Block Gauge 1/8” acrylic 1 2” x 1” 50 x 25 CUTTING DIAGRAM - PLYWOOD 3 (2) Table Saw Sled Exploded View m 4 (2) Table Saw Sled 3 Dimensional Isometric Views 5 (2) Table Saw Sled 2 Dimensional Plan Views 6 (2) Table Saw Sled Dimensions 7 (2) Table Saw Sled STEP 1 – Prep the Fences Cut pieces C and D according to the cutting list, and laminate them together. Use plenty of glue and cover the entire surface before clamping. It can be helpful to leave each piece 1/4” wider and longer than the final dimensions, so after the pieces are glued together, you can clean up the edges by ripping and crosscutting the laminated final fence down to the proper size. Do the same thing for the front fence with both B pieces. And also for both I pieces (the blade block). While the glue is drying, set these aside and move on to Step 2. STEP 2 – The Sled Base 2A Cut piece A according to the cutting list, if you haven’t already. The offset section is added to reduce the weight and overall bulkiness of the sled, while still supporting longer pieces to the right. Mark the offset section according to the image here, and add the curves as shown. This offset can be cut out using the jig saw. Sand everything smooth with 120 grit sandpaper. 2B Lower the table saw blade so it’s flush with the top of the table saw. Mark a line on the back of the sled, 17” (425mm) from the left edge. This is where we want the blade to line up. Lay the sled on the table saw and align the blade, with your 17” (425mm) mark. Now you can mark the locations of the miter slots on the back edge of the sled. The image below only shows one miter slot, but go ahead and mark both. 8 (2) Table Saw Sled Using a square, extend these lines to the top, and lightly mark lines across the top of the sled to the front. This is where the grooves will be cut for the aluminum t-track. They will be in line with the miter slot runners so the screws holding the t-track in place will reach into the runner, instead of protruding out the bottom of the sled. Using a plunge router, bushing set, 1/2” (13mm) straight cut bit, and a simple jig, you can now mark out and make the grooves for the t-track. If you get t- track that is 3/8” (10mm) deep, make your grooves just slightly over 3/8” (10mm) deep. The final width of 3/4” (19mm) for the grooves should allow for a snug fit for the t-track. See Appendix B for details. Square off the back of the groove using a sharp 1/2” chisel. This back end of each groove will support the t-track firmly, while the front end of the groove will extend 1/2” past the t-track to allow clearance for the heads of the hex-bolts. This way you can easily insert, and remove the attachments. Do not screw the t-track in place yet. That will have to wait until the runners are installed. 9 (2) Table Saw Sled 2C Extend your lines to the front edge. Now you can place the sled on the saw and mark the miter slots on the front edge. At this point you should have 4 marks on the back edge and 4 on the front edge that are in line with the miter slots, and are also in line with the dadoes you did on the top. We’ll call these your miter slot marks. Cut E pieces (miter slot runners) from oak or hard maple. It can help to cut them 2” (50mm) longer than the final dimensions, so they extend past the front and back of the sled by an inch. This makes it easier to line them up when gluing. These runners should slide freely thru your miter slots, without any slop side to side. See Appendix D for tips on making your runners. Once they fit just right in the miter slots, they should NOT protrude above the top of the table saw. If they do, they are too thick. For attaching them to your sled, you’ll need to place 4 or 5 coins (or washers) down in your miter slot, and put the runners on top. This should make the runners protrude just above the table saw surface. Lay the coins in the slots, lay the runners on the coins, and put a little wood glue down the middle of the runners (you don’t need so much that it will have any squeeze out on either side). Now lay the sled base on the runners, so that the runners are in line with your miter slot marks on the front and the back of the sled base. Set weights on top of the sled, over the runners. Allow 2 hours to dry. After the glue has dried, using a hand saw, cut the excess length from the runners on both ends of each, flush with the edge of the sled base. Flip the base over, pre-drill 3/16” (5mm) clearance holes in the hardwood, and countersink for #8 x 1/2” wood screws. Do not insert screws into the underneath side of the dadoes. Only insert screws where you have the full thickness of the plywood to screw into. Now you can insert the t-tracks on the top, and mark your mounting holes. Drill 7/64” (2.5mm) pilot holes down thru the plywood and the hardwood runners. Now attach the t-tracks using #8 x 1/2” wood screws. If at this point your sled is tight and doesn’t move freely in the miter slots, you’ll need to remove some material from the sides of the attached runners using 120 grit sandpaper and a sanding block, or a card scraper. Remove just a little material at a time, test the movement, then remove more if needed. You don’t want to remove too much, as this can create side-to-side wiggle room which is not what we want. To help find the tight spots on the runners, color the sides of the runners with marker, and push it back and forth thru the miter slots. You should be able to see where the tight spots are from the rub marks in the marker. This is where you’ll sand or scrape away material. This process may take some time, but it’s important to get this right, without overdoing it and causing side-to-side wiggle room of the sled.
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