The Ottoman Public Kitchen
Journal of Interdisciplinary History, xxxv:3 (Winter, 2005), 481–500. THE OTTOMAN PUBLIC KITCHEN Amy Singer Serving Up Charity: The Ottoman Public Kitchen Ottoman public kitchens, known as ‘imaret, aqhane, darü’l-it(am, or darü’z-ziyafe, handed out food, free of charge, to speciªc groups and to fortunate individuals. These public kitchens were con- structed throughout the territories of the Ottoman Empire, from the fourteenth century into the nineteenth. Prior to the Ottoman era, there is no indication that purpose-built public kitchens were established on a wide scale in any Islamic society, though food dis- tributions of various kinds were not unknown and took place on many occasions in public venues and from the houses of individu- als. An investigation of these kitchens reveals a nexus of patronage, charity, and hospitality. It also introduces many of the broader issues surrounding charity: Why do people give? What are the implications of giving and receiving, and what meaning informs these actions? Individual examples reveal the speciªc and quoti- dien aspects of the public kitchens: Who decided what to give, to whom, how much, when, and where? What kind of charity was the soup kitchen, and what kind of “poverty” did it address? How much food was distributed at one meal, and was it sufªcient to constitute a minimally nourishing meal?1 In the present discussion, charity refers to a range of acts de- noted by such terms as philanthropy, welfare, and beneªcent aid. At its simplest level, charity is a reºection of a donor’s wishes, inspired by spiritual, social, economic, or political motives, possi- bly including self-interest and ambition.
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