Java Journal
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TRAVEL java Splendid vistas, surreal moments, historic sights and memorable meals – all the stuff of an amazing week-long journey from Bali to Jakarta, taken by writer GOURI MIRPURI journaland her family. Illustrations by CHAN CHANG HOW. "We trekked in semi-darkness to the lip of the caldera around Bromo to catch the spectacular sunrise that illuminates the whole stunning valley of sand and smouldering volcanic cones below." SilverKris 58 TRAVEL wenty-five years with them something of ago, I took a rather our romance with this cities charting the rise unusual holiday fascinating, culturally rich and fall of Hindu, Buddhist with my then new and immensely hospitable and Islamic kingdoms... husband. At that time, Java island. It proved to be one The Java of a thousand wasT largely unknown to most smiles and a kind, gentle of our best holidays ever. travellers and the idea of Java was still the Java people living in rhythm an overland trip across the we had fallen in love with with this ancient land... densely populated island was a quarter of a century ago Our journey began in Bali, greeted with raised eyebrows – astonishingly beautiful from where we crossed and a polite change of topic. with its smouldering volcanic by ferry to Bromo, before Twenty-five years later, spine set against verdant making our way through we decided to repeat the padi Malang, Blitar, Borobudur adventure, this time with our (rice) terraces and lush By ferry from Bali to East Java. and Yogyakarta. Then it was teenage children in tow. green vegetation... The Java time to hop on to a train for We hoped to share of ancient temples and royal Jakarta, where we live. DAY 1 Bali to Bromo Our journey starts with a ferry ride from Gilimanuk in Bali to Banyuwangi in East Java, where our hired car is waiting, with the ever- smiling Agus, our driver and guide for this AD trip. Getting around Java is best done this way as you can choose the route and set the pace. (Car hires cost upwards of Indonesia Rupiah (Rp) 150,000/US$16 per day; expect to pay the driver Rp 100,000/US$11 per day.) Our minivan takes us through lush fields ofpadi so green it hurts the eyes, then up the winding road towards our first destination, the spectacular Mount Bromo. Mount Bromo, going up to 2,329m, is one of East Java’s most popular attractions. One of five peaks located inside the huge Tengger caldera, it is an active volcano. On our last trip, we had done a midnight horseback crossing of the caldera’s floor, the ‘Sea of Sand’, and climbed up the side of the active volcano to watch an unforgettable sunrise. Bromo is as famous for its views as its cultural heritage, being a centre for ancient Hindu/ Javanese beliefs and practices. We check into the Lava View Lodge (Cemoro Lawang, Sukopuro, Probolinggo, Tel: 62 335 541 009) and the view is stunning indeed – we stand at the edge of a huge crater looking down into the Sea of Sand that stretches for miles, with a deeply furrowed conical smoking volcano rising The padi fields are stunningly green. majestically in the centre. >> SilverKris 60 TRAVEL with parks and boulevards, homemade tutti-fruity ice and boasting impressive old cream and was the administrative Dutch buildings and the finest bifstek (beef steak) and the waiters wear white and cultural centre for the Art Deco architecture still in sarongs and black whole of East Java. At the use. There is a gentle rhythm peci hats (the Indonesian version of the alun-alun to this serene little town, and fez). And then, to complete , our teenagers go it is our base for the next back in time, too, watching the anachronistic atmosphere, buskers and buying traditional two days as we explore the there’s a power outage and playthings such as surrounding countryside. kerosene lamps are hastily lit (marbles), kelereng The best place to stay is at at each table. It is a real step gangsing a spinning top) and (similar to the Tugu Hotel-Museum (Jalan back in time, a reminder of the (a game with a woodencongklak Tugu 3, www.tuguhotels. colonial days when Malang com), the creation of art board and beads or shells collectors Pak Anhar and as markers), which recall Ibu Wedya. It has been holidays from a long time ago. widely written about in travel DAY 3 Down the centre of Java journals and architectural digests, and every bit of DAY 2 runs its volcanic spine, Exploring Malang praise is well-deserved. The offering some of the most spectacularly surreal service is impeccable, our The next morning, we start early with a fascinating walk through Still in Bromo, been a lot of development near Raden Saleh suite is studded the bird and flower markets along the river, followed by breakfast Bromo, it has not detractedlandscapes. with amazing ancient and authentic Malang coffee at the charming bakery attached then on to Malang from the beauty of this volcanic to Tugu Hotel. Then we head off to explore the ancient Hindu region. Indeed, as we spot temple complexes that lie in a ring around the city. A good guide The temperature drops Bromo. We grab our torches in the totally surprising and very can bring these ancient structures to life and Pak Udy is more considerably and we spend shivering double-gloved hands trendy Java Banana cafe, than that. When the history gets too heavy, we head to Batu, a miserable night wearing all and head out. It is almost a gallery and hotel on the way a tiny hill resort at the base of the Gunung Arjuna mountain. the clothes we have brought full-moon night and we pick our down (Jalan Raya Bromo, We drive past the most charming pastoral mountain scenes along as well as beanies, way through thick forests up www.java-banana.com), we and stunning picture-postcard views of Javanese countryside gloves and mufflers purchased steep slopes for more than two are grateful for development! that this trip will offer. We lunch at the quirky Warung Bethania from the vendors in town. exhilarating hours. We get to For those whose days of (Jalan Diponegoro Street, 103 Batu), with its cavernous rooms Our guide knocks at the the top in time for a spectacular backpacking and roughing it modelled from branches and leaves, and eat good Indonesian door for an unearthly 3.30am sunrise that illuminates the entire in hostels are over – as they food while sitting on tree stumps carved into furniture. rise to climb to the lookout are for me – I recommend a valley of sand and smouldering point at Mount Penajakan, comfortable stay in Wonotoro, volcanic cones below. 2,270m above sea level. which offers fresh mountain >> At the summit, there We know that to enjoy the air, spectacular sunrises and is, happily, hot coffee and best sunrise, we must set out sunsets and clear Bromo pot noodles, a string of pre-dawn and trek through skies along with fully-furnished The Tugu Hotel in Blitar. warungs the caldera’s famous Sea or coffee shops and eco-friendly lodges, state-of- artefacts and carefully vendors. The local people are of Sand, between eight and the-art kitchens, heating, a selected antique furniture, Tenggerese, reputed to be the 10km in diameter, to climb sensible cafe, tour packages the spa is charming and the last remaining Hindus in Java. Mount Bromo. The cold must arranged in jeeps and the best complimentary Javanese In the golden light of dawn, have impaired our judgement banana fritters and brewed herbal massage just what we their chiselled cheekbones though, because we decide coffee on the mountain. need after the long drive. and tanned, weatherbeaten instead to hike to the freezing Our next stop is Malang, faces reveal an ancient That night we dine at summit of the lip of the caldera three hours away, but a world people who have understood the charming Toko Oen for sunrise, then come down apart from the raw beauty the volcanic mountains and Restaurant-Ice Cream for the horse-back journey of Bromo. Malang is a gentle their mysteries forever. Palace-Patissier-Juice (Jalan across the sand sea to the Javanese hill town, established Jend Basuki Rahmad 5, Tel: On the journey down, we by the Dutch in the 18th century famous ‘crater in a crater’, to 62 341 364 052), which faces reflect that although there has for their coffee plantations. It is the bustling alun-alun or town cool and organised, sprinkled SilverKris 62 square. Not much seems to have changed since the 1930s – you sit on low, white wicker sofas, the menu offers A Javanese massage in the serene town of Malang, which offers green parks and Dutch architecture. TRAVEL DAY 4 Malang to Borobudur, through Blitar This is our BIG travelling day Kingdom (which flourished as we will be on the road for from 13th to 16th century seven hours straight. We leave AD) still stand, including the ‘ancient’ East Java to cross largest and most beautiful into ‘cultural’ Central Java. Hindu temple complex in The journey is not as difficult East Java, Candi Panataran. as imagined, though the Ask any Indonesian and main highway through Java they will remind you that Blitar is just one-lane wide in most is where their charismatic places. We shut our eyes tight first president, Soekarno, was during overtaking and delight born and buried. A visit to in pronouncing the names of the historical Gebang Palace the Javanese towns we zip shows where Soekarno past – Ponorogo, Sumoroto, spent his childhood.