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“We are pilgrims on a journey, we’re companions on the road; we are here to help each other Camino Chronicle walk the mile and bear the load.

I will weep when you are weeping. When you laugh, I'll laugh with you. I will share your joy and sorrow Till we've seen this journey through.”

These words from Richard Gillard’s The Servant Song, remind us that we’re all on a journey, outward physical journeys and inner spiritual journeys. The ancient tradition of pilgrimage is alive and well! Below is the full poem.

The Servant Song

Brother, let me be your servant. Let me be as Christ to you. Pray that I might have the grace To let you be my servant, too. We are pilgrims on a journey. We are brothers on the road. We are here to help each other Walk the mile and bear the load. NATIONAL CONFERENCE Nunyara Conference Centre, Adelaide, SA .11-13 Oct 2019 I will hold the Christ-light for you In the night time of your fear. PROVISIONAL PROGRAM INSIDE—SEE WEBSITE TO BOOK I will hold my hand out to you; Speak the peace you long to hear. ~ Closing date extended to 4 October ~ I will weep when you are weeping. When you laugh, I'll laugh with you. I will share your joy and sorrow Till we've seen this journey through. Australian Friends of the Camino When we sing to God in heaven, Patron: Sr Manuel Cacho, Ambassador of Spain, Canberra We shall find such harmony Born of all we've known together Of Christ's love and agony. Newsletter No 30, September 2019 Brother, let me be your servant. Let me be as Christ to you. Pray that I might have the grace To let you be my servant, too.

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CHAIRMAN’S CHAT DID YOU KNOW ? ? ? AustralianB I E N Friends V E N of I the D CaminoO... TEAMWORK. A word that says much, especially when reflecting on the teams of wonderful peopleDIFFERENT making things SANTIAGO, work along the SAME Camino. ST JAMES to the latest Aussie Camino group!

~ NEWCASTLE, NSW ~ There are those who give 2 weeks of their time to help at the Pilgrim Office, dealing with exhilarated but tired pilgrims on their arrival in Santiago. They “I’ve undertaken to start a Newcastle Camino Group in Newcastle NSW. calmly deal with all nationalities, deciphering unusual writing on credencials, We should appeal to pilgrims and interested walkers in the Hunter Region

coping with special requests, establishing which routes pilgrims have walked, and ~ The waso Newcastlerd has is s thepr majoread acitycr ofo thess Hunter. Aust ralia ~ issuing the all-important Compostela. It is tiring work, requiring concentration, a Initially I’ve opened a Facebook page which has details of the group. friendly smile and tact, but it is done with enthusiasm and willingness. Our first gathering will be the first Saturday in November at 9.00am, 1113 October at Bar Beach Kiosk, Bar Beach. isI have Conference walked the timeCamino in de Adelaide Santiago, Volunteer teams of Hospitaleros staff albergues pilgrims stay in. Often exhaust- forCamino everyone Portuguese with & Kumano an interest Kodo Japan. in the” ing work, with the Hospitaleros generally the first up and the last to bed. Be- tween farewelling one group of pilgrims and welcoming the next, the whole al- For furtherCamino information, de Santiago! please contact bergue is cleaned and shopping done – sometimes in a distant town. These gener- Juliet Clark m: 0411744041 or ous people are invaluable in making a successful Camino for pilgrims. Pilgrims are email:coming [email protected] from far and wide to participate in the first national Australian Friends of the Camino conference! Another volunteer team, the Camino Chaplaincy is staffed with members who *** See the full program on the next two pages *** help and support pilgrims on their spiritual journey as they arrive in Santia- TIPS & HINTS FOR WALKING A CAMINO

go. They too work long and hard for the benefit of you, the pilgrim. This will be a great chance to relive the memories of your Camino(s) - GIVEAWAY SOUVENIRS Recently we were stuck in Santiago de Chile for 24 hours due to missing our or learn what you need to know for your first Camino journey. In recent yearsconnection AFotC has fromhad Limamembers to Australia. volunteering What afor bonus! roles in all of these Everyone will meet old friends or make new ones, teamsWe and then we made are itvery our appreciativemission to discover of their St contributions.James—we knew Recently he had Ito read be the If you wantand to take we’ll something all share the (lightweight!) spirit and camaraderie to give- of El Camino inspiringthere somewhere! and moving AfterCamino catching book I ’all taxi Push to You Plaza. Two de Armas, friends, we Justin perambulated and Patrick, away to new-foufornd one frie wonderfulnds or help weekendmates w hinil ethe on Adelaide hills. showedaround just the what large teamwork square untilcould we do. discovered Not just thethey humble themselves, statue. but And their then fellow your Camino, these tiny flags might do the trick. You’ll find the full program in this edition of the Camino Chronicle. pilgrimsthere he along was onthe top way, of thevolunteered Cathedral to as help well oneas inside solitary (but pilgrim to one achieve side, not his the goal Some pilgrims take tiny souvenir koalas or even of reaching Santiago. Pushing amajor wheelchair attraction). through mud, up mountains, and over Aussie postcardsAll Conference… kangaroos participants and koalas will never receive fail a printed copy such long distances could only be achieved by teamwork, whether a team of two to please!in their Registration bag on arrival at the Nunyara Conference Centre, or a dozen. Inspired by this expedition, others have formed teams and pushed along with a host of other information about Adelaide, and a few little surprises, Other giveaways might be Aussie stickers, magnets people unable to walk themselves, including a team setting off in October from thanks to our wonderful sponsors and donors. or tiny boomerangs. the Blue Mountains Camino Group. AlisonAs Bell well (SA) as the diverse range of presentations throughout the weekend, we’ll all be singing Galician songs with JessieSend Vintila your TIPS on Friday& HINTS evening, to Sometimes teams can be seen working along the Camino, though often only the [email protected] and enjoying a top-class performance from well-known entertainer results of their efforts, such as the annual rubbish collection on the Meseta, are and podcaster Dan Mullins on Saturday night. seen. The Camino might be a solitary experience for a pilgrim, but it is the “In sunshine and shadow, from darkness till noon. teams of volunteers that make it the success it is. If you haven’t already booked, it is still possible to come Over mountains that reach from the sky to the moon for the whole weekend, or even just for one day. A man with a dream that will never let go Here in Australia another team has been working hard over the past year - To book, go to www.afotc.orgKeeps searching and to you find’ll find El Dorado.a link to” the Booking Form the team planning the upcoming Camino Conference being held in Adelaide in and details for payment. Everyone is welcome, so encourage friends and family October. This team has organised what will be an innovative, interesting, and to book too if they’d likeFrom to the know movie andmore title about song El thisDorado wonderful experience stimulating programme of events (pp4-5) At the time of writing there are still called “The Camino” that you’re always talking about! beds available - so if Alisonyou haven Bell’ andt already Sandra booked, Margaret why (SA) not grab this opportunity to come and mingle with fellow Camino enthusiasts. ButWe hurry!!love to receive Places your areideas, filling photographs quickly. and suggestions! Send to the editor at [email protected] www.afotc.org Janet Leitch OAM (SA) AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019 PagePage 22 2 Page 323 AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019

View from the peak at Climbing into La Chapelle-en-Lafaye MontverdunPROG R(1070m),AM the late-afternoon light is CAMIN0 QUIZP (fromROG pagesRA 12M13) —ANSWERS amazing. The auberge isn’t open so FRIDAY I’ll self-cater. The deserted gîte is 1. SUNOnward!DAY unlocked. You pin your 15-euro fee to 2. Because it followed the path from Cluny in France to SdC 3.30-5.00 Registration the notice board and admire the view. 3. orninTo hold drinking water 4.00-5.30 Books/maps/travel displays in Wayirrirti Room 4. The Way of St. James (or St James Path) After La Chapelle, just past Montarch- 5. World CA Heritage Sites AA 5.30 Welcome & Conference opening CHAPEL er, the chemin forks left onto 765E 6. 25 JulyCur erie (Rev Cam West & Rev Christa Megaw) CA 6.00 Drinks on the terrace and right onto 765O. The latter option 7. Scallop shell is 20km shorter and much less steep. 8. c) betweenon rierle 1092 and: “The 1105 Camino as a path of self-discovery” CHAPEL 6.45 DINNER 9. Oviedo : G A The next8.00 two Singingdays are workshop vintage Hautewith Jessie Loire. Vintila There - andare Galicianlong traverses songs! through pine 10. 200km rather than broadleaf forest, on higher slopes closer to 1000m. WAYIRRIRTI Pretty, ROOM but larger 11. Emilio on Estevez1 rierle :“Guiding the Camino: Past,Present,Future“ CHAPEL gaps between villages call for navigational caution. Spotting my bruised toes, hosts 12. Irache in the valleySATU atR PontempeyratDAY offer up a better class of band-aid. Plus more rabbit. 13. Pink and grey There’sMorning no TV. I can ’t join the French millions to watch the soccer quarterfinal 14. A ummar against USA. 15. Church of St Mary at Eunate 7.30 CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST 16. Botafumeiro C /Thurible Track maintenance Books seems & equipment haphazard displays in these all day parts. Leaving the hillside hamlet of 17. :Atapuerca ilrim lessin eremon CA Boudoux, the chemin appears to vanish in long grass. Reassured by precise FFR 18. El Cid in Burgos wordings,9.00 I locateDr Francisco the bridge Singul in the: “The valley Way just Ahead below.” It ’s not far to myCHAPEL sweltering 19. PadronClose areell west-facing hotel room at Bellevue-la-Montagne. 20. Holland; Belgium; Switzerland; Britain 10:00 Rev Cameron West & Isobel Thomas: “Spirituality & the Camino” : epart. CHAPEL 21. A herbal liquor that comes in 3 main flavours and is used as a digestif. Next day, pine forest yields to scenic back-roads and pastures. At the locality of (And sometimes a heartstarter.) Freyenet,10.30 I realise Morning that tea the official chemin veers off the road and up through a 22. Ferrol and La Coruña. Ferrol fenced-11:00off pasture. Max Mastrosavas This is a : highly“Art on unusual the Caminos occurrence.” A jury-riggedCHAPEL electric 23. !! John Brierley fence nips playfully as you squeeze through. 24. A celebratory liquor drink that is set alight before serving. 11:30 Aust’n Camino Groups panel: Introduction & Activities CHAPEL will be available to meet and talk with pilgrims throughout the 25. Ground almond weekend. John is challenging us to consider the Camino as a pow- From Bellevue12.30 LUNCH to Saint Paulien is only a 12km day. It seems like a clever choice, 26. All answers are correct! erful agent of change to help us deal with the increasingly urgent spurningAfternoon the dusty hotel for a private room on the edge of town. Merde, the big 27. Hospital de San Juan de Acre supermarket that I had earmarked is never open on Sunday. It’s back into town, 28. El Burgosocial, Ranero economic and environmental problems of our time. for one1:30 last tiltWorkshops at the restaurants.: Challenges for the next decade CHAPEL 29. Asturias A bold challenge indeed! OR Introduction to walking the Camino: Tips for beginners 30. Puenta la Reina The final day is also brief. It takes a few goes to find the correct exit from Nolhac 31. White beans, potatoes and grellos (greens) village. FFR insists that I must(with split Julie “-Annele terrain Milne )de boules et le lavoir(TBA)” (the boules 32. 2021 pitch and2.45 the Afternoonwashhouse). tea Certainly narrows the options. After the big downhill 33. 116kms into Communac hamlet, the ascending right-hander is not marked, not that I can 34. Sahagun discern.3.15 It’ s 70mFeedback past thefrom bridge, workshop FFR sessions confirms. (everyone Further welcome) on, the highCHAPEL fortress of 35. Russian roulette.‘ [EveryChallenges now andfor thethen next one decade of the ’peppers will be hot!] Polignac4:00 is visible Fran fromWest: several “Photography kilometres on the away. Camino Now” the cobblestones CHAPEL of Le Puy 36. CertificateThis workshop of Welcome. on Saturday 3 Certificates: will provide Compostela, a chance to Certificate explore of old town are very close to hand. issues, challenges and opportunities for the Way of St James in 4.30 Tour operators panel: “Guided tours of the Camino” CHAPEL welcome, Distance Certificate 37. Howthe many years people ahead do for you pilgrims know whoseas well first as for Camino Australian has been Friends their last? Lingering yet is the (Raw mystery Travel; of Sing the thefemale Camino; operatic Big Heart voice Adventures) floating out of the woods. 38. Theof Church the Camino. of San InFrancisco preparation, we suggest you read Rebekah She accompanied5.00 Drinks me, on theall terracealong the ridgeline preceding the start of the Saint- 39. ArlesScott's 2017 article which will be in your registration pack. Rigaud ascent. I don’t believe it was a recording. 40. O CebreiroRebekah is a writer and an avid supporter of the Camino 6.30 DINNER: with speaker Dee Nolan: “Food & wine on the Camino” who moved from the US to Spain to establish Stephen8.30 Saunders Dan Mullins (ACT) : Musician WAYIRRIRTI ROOM How ‘manyPeaceable answers Kingdom ’did in Moratinos. you know???

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ME,SENTIER LEO ANDST JACQUES THE CAMI (CHEMINNO... DE COMPOSTELLE) sorenessThe mighty and Loire, a bit at of Saint sunburn.Maurice In short, thingsFortunately, went as the smoothly information as I perceive centre is they still AGR FATHER 765 AND AND 765O, SON Cluny JOURNEY to Le PuyenVelay, June 2019 can on The Camino. open. They have a key to an empty three- bedroom place with a view. Donate what InIt’ s Aprilofficial. this This year, area I hadwas a packingrecord heatto walkwave the(la canicule) during my hike. It was Managing the Physical Challenge you wish. The shops are closed. The res- Caminoa scorching Francés 37C ,on a thejourney afternoon that I I hadentered been Montbrison plan- (Loire). The next day, June To make the physical challenge manageabletaurant for anda child a serve we had of C severalôtes du strategies. Rhône are ning27, one for stationseveral hityears. an allA -fewtime months Haute Loirebefore high the of 41C. Low to middle 30Cs fol- In addition to minimising the physical loadno hardship.we also started with shorter days and journey,lowed me, I askedall five my days 12 fromyear oldMontbrison son, Leo to to the join finish at Le Puy. As our communal gradually built up distance as we strengthened. Our first night was spent at Oris- me,table and enjoyed in doing traditional so changed Le Puy what lentils was at to Grand be a Séminaire gîte, finally, an even- son, a mere 8km up the road, but it madeOn the the Sundaynext leg morning, into Roncesvalles another patis-more personaling storm undertaking, moderated the into heat a special a little. shared I had expe- scheduled the hike before, not after, manageable. Or journey loosely followedserie the Brierleybeckons, guide, at Saint although-Andr éwe-d’ Apchon.allocat- riencethe FIFA between Women ’fathers World and Cup son finals that in will Lyon be 2treas--7 July. In the Loire, June is supposed Ited’s afun travel to visit time the of Sunday40 days marketto give insome Saint latitude-Alban -andles- Eaux.rest days. Except We for found the 23kmbig fire or- uredto be by a bitboth cooler of us than for the July. rest This of year,our lives. both months were unusually hot. truckso to bethat a sustainabletotally screens daily the distance, balisage although marking when the correctbeds were route scarce, down we through occa- thesionally village walked park. 30kms Quickly, or more. I retrace false steps. Just past Chatelus castle, a little WhyMy bible was the French-language Fédération Française Randonnée (FFR) guide for stone bridge indicates the route eastwards to touristic Saint-Maurice-sur-Loire. TheCluny Camino to Le Puy. seemed The formeran ideal town setting is about to spend90km north of Lyon, the latter 130km AtWhilst the Loire,I am a oncebit of again, a purist, the weinformation agreed to centre not die holds in a the ditch key if towe the needed empty to g îtakete. somesouthwest. quality My time mobile with phone Leo, heldby virtue back -ofup itsmaps duration for Loire and andnature, Haute particularly Loire dépar- as a bus to make the trip manageable and enjoyable. We followed the advice of manytements of .my I sought most torewarding cover the moments 300km in with 13 nights.my children have occurred whilst tak- Nextprevious day, travellers the heat andescalates. bussed Entering the final tiny kilometres Dancé, ainto chatty both local Burgos has and open Leon house to ing a walk. I wanted to show him that the world can be a wonderful and safe andavoid draughts he suburbs of water. and lengthen I rehydrate, our plannedjust down rest the periods road at in Amions. those cities. Luckily, Similarly, there’s place.It’s a tricky It was section. also a chanceNot so muchto show topographically. him that sometimes The only things steep can gain be is hard to sum- and aon proper a number fountain. of occasions Parks or whenpublic faced toilets with in rurala long France, day’s shouldwalking, you we find forwarded them at challenging,mit Mont Saint even-Rigaud for hislookout Dad, (1000m but that elevation) ultimately on suchthe second things day.can Itbe’s overcomemore the all,Leo ’sare main surprisingly pack to our often destination BYO water. town. AOverall few moreit became hare oursightings, intention the to forestmove andawkward amazing gaps things between can be settlements achieved. Likeand walkingthe sparse 800km! accommodation. Local press throughat the same Pallance, pace aas vista our Caminoof autoroute Family,, and so therethat we’s medieval could stay Pommiers in contact.-en- Forez.A bus estimates just 1500 pilgrims in 10 years. That’s tiny traffic by Spanish Camino Theleg wastourist always centre followed is eager by ato rest show day off to the keep ancient us in sync.priory Ultimately and church. Leo I managedprefer to Preparationsstandards. I met just 7 pilgrims, 8 with the dog. All fast-striding Germans. showerthe physical first atchallenge the gîte very. Corroborating well, having the only press a single story, day this of gblistersîte has andlogged the barely usual In preparing for the Camino, we focussed a lot on what gear to take, a reasonable 50minor guests aches since and March. pains. IIn walk the downend we for completed pizza quatre the fromagesjourney in with 37 days. wine from dis- amountDespite theon fitness,isolation, and there very were little communal on pre-planning. gîtes or Wechambres set ourselves d’hôtes thehalf task of the of tant Béziers. packingtime. But as forlight the as Spossibleéminaire, and I had in the these end all our to combined myself. Otherwise, pack weight I bookedwas around into Walking with Leo 12.5hotels kgs, or lodgings.with Leo carryingAfter one 4kg 37km and-day me thatcarrying finished the balance.late in Propi Fitnessères, was the a g bitîte ofwas a JustI suspect past Pommiers,that for most a shop readers,-sign warnsthe thought of a long of walkinggap to theday nextafter day through shop. An a hitlocked and and miss hotel affair. full. I am“Courage a cyclist” smirked and supplemented the hotel lady. my I backtrackedbase fitness towith a grassysome underwhelmingforeign country with20km little debouches more than on yourto the thoughts communal to contend jardins with, de isl ’aAstr visionée. ofIn targetedbit of chemin weight and loss inflated and regular my mini hikes mattress. with a heavy pack. Leo did a few hikes to searchUtopia. of This Montverdun, was not the the case straight for my-ahead young is son,blocked. who Thehas aright love-hander of sleeping can’t in,be break his boots in, but was not so easily motivated to train beforehand, and in the correct.and of things You gothat sharp will left,activate over anda poorly captivate signed his grassy mind. track.While AtopI wanted the volcanicto wind end,If that as washe playsa tough a bit day, of sport,I lucked and out is young,on the I morrow.figured he Closing would onwalk the himself 36km into picdown, Montverdun on The Way,’s impressivelyLeo seemed toancient do the priory opposite. offers Getting an impressively up and moving cavernous each fitnessCharlieu, without we heard too thatmuch its drama, accommodation which is whatwas allhappened. taken. I hitchedOther preparations a ride 6km dorm.morning Would was thea challenge wilted monsieur that involved care to various purchase combinations wine, plus dinnerof bribery, sent upentice- from werefurther minimal with onebeyond of the an arrivalGermans. date, A riversidea departure caravan date andwaited the atBrierley Pouilly guide--sous- thements village? and threats,Sure, you and talked it was me normal into it. for Wine us to appears be the directly. last to leave But the our attendants albergue. book.Charlieu It wascampsite. our plan Hot to showers.ensure we Soft could beds. experience For €7, la each patronne day and served place up according chicken scarperThis morning and the ritual meal did never not go materialises. unnoticed and Quel a fellow dommage pilgrim. I raideventually the leftovers spoke toin tonuggets, how we frites, were andfeeling, Bordeaux. which Classicworked cuisine. very well I couldn for us.’ t go past Pouilly patisserie, thecomfort big communal me. “You fridges.have such Something a good relationship rabbit, I think with it your son, you always speak before crossing the Loire on the grand bridge. The next four days become the was.calmly Less and said never the raisebetter. your voice.” She went on to explain that there was anoth- Our Journey er Antipodean family travelling a few days ahead of us that used volume and most charming phase. It’s one postcard Wall creepers, at Saint-Haon Forvillage context, after another.here is the Reader’s Digest summary of our journey essentials. We Beyondcolourful Montverdun, language to there get ’theirs a shady children stroll on the for- Day 2: Pyrenees (100kph winds) began in St Jean Pied de Port on a cold and cloudy day in mid-April and walked estedmoving. slopes It was of niceMont tod’ Izore.know thatChampdieu I was- bar et tabac intoFirst Santiagoup, Saint on- Haona beautiful-le-Châ tel,late -aSpring deli- day 36 days later. We walked most days, offersn’t the beer only and one ice facing water. this The challenge. big town of Montbrison takingcate fortified just two affair rest daysatop in a Burgoshill with and a Leon, but supplemented these with some isThe 7km motivation further on, and with attention no shade span from of the heat. Re- shortview. distanceThe walls days. are We decorated travelled throughwith a range of weather conditions, from coverymy Little is a Pilgrimcold hotel were shower very andimportant a visit to the near- nearcreepers freezing and temperatureshistorical Haon and 100kmhphotos. winds in the Pyrenees, to warm days in estaspects supermarket. of shaping The our next journey. day takes Whilst me up and over theEach mid photo to highhas a 30’ matchings on the placard, Meseta. with However, in the main we were blessed with anotheradults are volcanic content cone, to Monsupt.set a day All-long goes smoothly, finean aptsunny quote conditions from anda French donned author. our wet weather gear only a handful of times. tillobjective just past of walkingthe village towards of Marols a distant in mid afternoon. DuringMy hero, our Flaubert, journey thereis included. occurred Even two the lengthy public holidays during which Span- Bamboozleddestination, byit becametoo many important rather than for ustoo few signs, I iardschildren flocked’s play to theequipment outdoors. Thishas resultedbeen in a scarcity of accommodation, and a quitto find the bursts forest of for motivation the sealed and road. interest It will rejoin the fewfashioned moments into of the anxiety shape on of my a part,fairytale but we managed. Physically we did not suffer cheminthroughout soon theenough. day. This included in- any ailments that significantly impeded our progress beyond the usual blisters, vesting time to make specialPommiers, memories decorations in the castle. priory museum

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PLAYof places REVIEW like the wine fountain at Irache, Cruz de Ferro, BOOK REVIEW him and try and reconcile his small stature and Tomas’ Albergue and the Templar castle at Ponferra- youth with his travel weary gear and his extensive

da. Café stops, offering the opportunity to practice our YOUR INNER CAMINO &collection AFTER THEof Camino CAMINO: travel pins and bracelets. In Recently I was privileged to view the premiere of a new play, Blister, written Spanish with friendly locals whilst indulging in our favour- (Set of 2 pocket books)most cases, they would walk over and introduce by one of our members, Sarah Peters. Directed by Tiffany Lyndall-Knight with a ite local treats became frequent occurrences. Author: Karin Kiser. Caminothemselves Chronicles and Press, ask 2019. him about his journey. By the musical score written and performed by Rachel Bruerville, it is full of energy, As such, we became accustomed to spreading our break- time we arrived in Leon, complete strangers were humour, and endearing pathos. It is obvious Sarah has walked the Camino. Only Your Inner Camino: Your Pocket Guide to Inspiration and Transformation fast and lunch over multiple stops throughout the day. coming over and asking if he was Leo from a pilgrim could know of the situations and emotions that the numerous charac- along the Camino de Santiago. Australia. As we travelled, I watched Leo’s ters found themselves in - the noise and snoring in the albergue, the exhaustion ThIs little book is not designed to be read before you start your Camino walk. The opportunity to interact with the local wildlife, dogs, confidence growing, and by journey’s end, it and drudgery, the less than private bathroom facilities, the despair, and of The words are more meaningful when you are actually on the Camino. In an cats and horses were embraced by my animal-loving son, seemed he knew most people on The Camino. I too course the elation. easy to read format, this little book provides the encouragement to put things as was adding to pilgrim path-side stone sculptures and found myself being approached by pilgrims, with in perspective, prioritise what is important and create a map for the journey fence stick tapestries. Similarly, many opportunities to One happy pilgrim several openly crying with emotion, telling me what a wonderful thing it was These tales were told by the lead character, Rosie, played convincingly by Ash- within. It is the ideal companion on the Camino, especially for those days which create a special experience presented themselves. Midway through the Meseta, I that we were doing and how they wished they had done something similar with ton Malcolm, along with her peregrino family. Ashton gave a convincing perfor- are challenging. discovered that I had walked through my trusty boots. After buying replace- their parents or children. mance portraying the initial nervousness and doubt, the exhilaration, then a ments, we carried the old ones to the highest point of The Camino and on a spot growing strength and compassion, as she dealt with the various A quote in the book from Howard Thurman, ‘Don’t ask what the world needs. with a commanding view of the mountains, we took the time to create a stone I felt incredibly rewarded to be able to be doing something that was continually peregrinos she met on her journey. Ask what makes you come alive and go do it. Because what the world needs is pyre and placed my old boots decorated with flowers on top. These opportunities being blessed and supported by our fellow travellers. The most special Camino more people who have come alive’ provides encouragement for more awareness were supplemented by some special pre-planned experiences. Leo’s first-ever relationship for Leo was reserved for Raphaela (see photo above), a young Ger- As on the Camino, this play was peopled with a variety of characters of all ages and positivity on the road. coffee was reserved for a cold, challenging day on the Meseta. Similarly, it had man pilgrim of similar age to Leo, who was travelling a portion of The Camino and cultural backgrounds. Characters like the 60-year olds Saskia and Paul from been agreed at outset that we would both get matching scallop shell tattoos on with her parents. Meeting on the third day of your journey, the two quickly Holland, poor English Grace who had no idea what she had committed to, the After the Camino: Your Pocket Guide to Integrating the Camino de Santiago our ankles if we completed the journey to Santiago. Alas Spanish law frustrated overcame shyness and language barriers to become inseparable travelling compassionate Maria from Spain, Judy and Kate from Australia, and an older into Your Daily Life. this last ambition, although a kind Tattooist drew a temporary shell on Leo’s companions. Both accomplished singers, they quickly became known on The Danish pilgrim called Fred. Some characters touched a chord, one being This book is a gem and guides readers into changing their mindset so that the ankle which he proudly displayed for several days. Each afternoon, we arrived at Camino for the laughter and songs they brought with them. The joy Leo and Alexander, a lonely, reticent, middle-aged Dane who had come on the Camino spirit of the Camino can live on when we return home. The contemplations and the day’s destination, usually several hours after our fellow pilgrims. At the Raphaela shared, the friendships made, the laughter and the struggles made my with a notebook in which people were to write greetings for him to read when suggestions help us to simplify our lives, let go of unhelpful thoughts and behav- time, I was concerned that arriving late meant we had little time at day’s end to first Camino experience truly special – but undoubtedly it was made even more he was older, and even more lonely. These characters, and more, were played iours and add more meaning to daily life. I appreciate the simple, yet thought- do more than find a place to stay, wash and eat before hitting the sack. On so, with my son at my side. At time of writing, planning is afoot for Leo to by the talented duo of Hew Parham and Tamara Lee Collins. They flitted ful way in which the author supports us in integrating the learnings from our reflection, it strikes me that travelling with a young pilgrim ensured that we undertake a school language exchange to Germany in 2 years to visit Raphaela. between characters as they leapt effortlessly around the world, from being an Camino walk into living with more awareness at home. really did ‘stop and smell the roses’ and absorb Camino experiences that I would They also want to reconvene in Logrono, after finishing high school, and com- American peregrino, to a French, Welsh, German or a Canadian to name a few. probably have simply passed by, had I been on my own. plete their shared section of The Camino together. Each change was convincing, and no doubt pilgrims in the audience had visions One example is ‘Forget about someday.’ On the Camino you were probably not

of similar peregrinos that they had met on their Camino. They had thinking that someday you would do something significant. You were anchored It’s all about the People Some final words numerous idiosyncrasies and some became part of Rosie’s peregrino family. to the present, through the need to be focussed on each step. This guide en- It was clearly apparent that whilst Leo will remember experiencing the sights, From our shared experience I heartily recommend travelling the CF with a young courages us to continue living like this, to take up the opportunity to live life sounds, and culture of a country very different to our own, it was clearly the son or daughter. Whilst there are specific considerations that go with this (eg Nearing Santiago, Rosie had some memorable dialogue… The familiarity of the now. people we met that made it a truly special experience for him. It quickly became additional travel time, flexibility etc) the rewards Camino. In a country where I barely speak the language – with people I didn’t apparent that Leo was genuinely interested and very capable of interacting with and memories are truly unique, and very different know a month ago - I find this routine very comforting. All you have to do is Unlike most other Camino guides, Karin Kiser does not provide advice on equip- locals and fellow pilgrims of all backgrounds and ages. With a handful of notable to those experienced by walking the Camino alone put one foot in front of the other - and ment, the routes or accommodation. Instead she addresses the deeper issues exceptions, he insisted we stay in dormitory albergue accommodation each night or with an adult. Our journey confirmed my keep your pack as light as possible. Like- that prompt all sorts of people to walk the Camino. Karin is the founder of and whilst I unpacked our kit, he would go around the room and talk with all the thoughts that The Camino is a positive place to wise, these poignant lines: I love the ‘Radical Simplicity’ and the author of the bestseller Lighten your Load. She pilgrims , enquiring “where do you come from?”, followed up with “if it is not spend some quality parent-child time, and we are simplicity of the Camino. The slowness lives in California and has been on and off the Camino de Santiago since 2011 – too personal, why are you doing The Camino?” I never saw a pilgrim not stop making plans for a return journey with my 15 year of travelling by foot…. There’s some- as a pilgrim, as a albergue hospitalera and as a volunteer rubbish collector along what they were doing to engage with him in an animated, jovial and lengthy con- old daughter in 2020. thing about how we are on the Camino the route. versation. He was also happy to share his story of why he was doing the Camino – that is teaching me about how I want to and I think it was his open and honest manner that endeared him to so many For those who are interested, I wrote a daily blog be in life. This set of 2 books was published earlier this year and are certainly worth read- people. We encountered very few young pilgrims on our journey. With a handful during Leo’s Camino, including a detailed list of our ing. To order the digital or Kindle editions, see www.Amazon.com To order of exceptions, the youngest group would have been in their mid-20’s and the gearthe light, and the thin places paperback we stayed. editions, This see can www.CaminoChroniclesPress.com be found at: $14.95 average age would have easily been mid-40’s. On account of his young age and Janet Leitch OAM (SA) https://leocamino.home.blog/author/leocamino/per set. Sarahoutgoing can bepersonality, contacted at: Leo was fairly unique and became the centre of interest My backpack was my very best friend wherever we travelled. It was always interesting to watch fellow pilgrims look at along the trail [email protected] JamesChrista Sage Megaw (SA) (SA) James & Leo in Galicia

AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019 PagePage 16 8 Page 917 AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019

PHILCAMINO’S DIARY: TRUTHS CAMINO FRANCES, APRIL/MAY 2018 So what do I mean by Truths? I am a believer that if you take yourself out of the We would have liked to have seen the museum regular routine of life and give yourbut brain the a conditions break from were the everyday,such that weyour probably brain is MondayThe Camino 9 April Truth – Villafranca is my way Montesof describing de Oca what to Orbanejahap- 26.7 kms going to do some very different thinking.would not have moved from our Todaypens whenhas been we undertakean amazing the day journey in so many of Caminoways. We – had a good night’s sleep in albergue. ourbut privateits not anroom exclusive in the CaminoSan Anton thing. Abad No Hotel/Albergue. way. The We were awake at 6am Couple that with new people to hang with, a bit of culture shock, walking long &Truth on the is tracka process by 7am that – readycan happen for the onclimb any over travel Alto Mojapan and Alto Pedraja distances (or up hills) and going offFrom the gridhere (if we you headed are lucky) off theand roadwell, and something onto a (1100experience, metres). particularly It was a ifsteep trekking climb or in walking pitch blackis part with of the headlight journey. on. We were called the subconscious mind will creeprough updirt from track behind and and we givewere you climbing. a tap on theWe overtaken quite early. As we climbed the German lass, Jenny (with the black shoulder or a good smack on your couldbum orhear spook gunfire you by in perhaps the distance appearing – maybeout of pilgrimAfter my hat) Camino caught journey up to usin soSeptember we chatted. 2018, As weI penned ascended a reflection it started about to rain the so nowhere when you least expect it withsome new sort information of army facility. that you The didn weather’t even know was weday put to dayour experiencesponchos on. andAmazingly emotions it wasfelt whilesoon snowing completing – there the finalwe were 115km climbing from about yourself. Whether it’s on thedeteriorating trails or perhaps and in thethe days,snow weeks was or monthsgetting withSarria the to snowflakesSantiago on swirling the popular around French us. Way. after returning home, allowing theheavier. subconscious Worst inof willall the permit track new we wereideas walkingto flow through, increase creativity and maybeon was even getting ask younarrower. to reassess I was yourquite relationship concerned II waswas reallyprivileged pleased to travel that withwe both experienced handled Caminothe climb Host very Amanda well. whoThe hadconditions com- or career choices or something else.that it could snow over and we could have a deterioratedpleted this section and we twice had topreviously. pick our path The asCamino this was Truth a logging is familiar track to – herlots and of mudwe real problem finding our way. tohad try discussed and avoid. what We Truths were cold,the Camino our gloves might and hold forearms for us bothwere before wet, when we headed we ar- Sometimes the Truth will simply bring up an unhappiness or realisation that some- rivedto Spain. at San I wasJuan familiar de Ortega. with Here Truths we on found other a treksbar, grabbedand trips a Itable had doneand ordered previ- thing needs to change. Giving yourselfWe had the been gift offollowing time will a pilgrimsimply openand I thehad doorsaid coffee,ously. Some bananas of the and most cake. life Our-changing Danish friend,Truths Morton,for me had arrived happened and joined on the us Koko- so we to a new way of thinking. And livingto Lucylife. Whenthat we we must travel keep away up from with our him nearest as he discussedda Track, ourthe Incaplans Trail, for the Mt Kilirest and of onthe trails day. inOur Tasmania. plan had Thesebeen toTruths stay for at methe and dearest, this time away can createseemed a to space know that his way.they Wehaven reached’t experienced a memo- historicwere huge village – working of Atapuerca. through relationships, (Atapuerca, sitecareer of andseveral overcoming limestone shitty caves mental near withrial whereus. They he hadnot onlystopped missed to prayout on so thewe fun,stopped but theyto talk missed to him. out Ion expressed working outmy Burgoshealth inand northern realising Spain, I was strongerknown for than the I thought.abundant human (genus Homo) remains whatconcerns the butTruth he was told for us us,not howto worry we reached– he was it an and experienced will often pilgrimbe ill equipped walker and to discovered there beginning in 1976.) understandhe would walk the hugewith usleap and in showthinking us theand way.feeling, His oftenname inwas a reallySam andshort he space was anof Some of these Truths were so big at the time, I nearly got a tattoo after one of time.Italian So architect its important from New to realise York City. this andHe wasbe kind,our Camino to yourself angel! and to them. Wethem! left So before while mostI am familiarof the groupwith them,and I want to share what a Truth might pushedlook/feel on like. but Iby see now it happen it was on snowing trips when women travel with us from time to EveryThe track time reallyI have did trekked, get very I nearlythank indistinguishablemyself for choosing but toSam see led the on worldchecking on quitetime. heavily. We picked our way along foot.constantly It’s athat reflective, Lucy and beautiful I were OK. way We to reachedconnect awith fork nature,in the road myself and and Sam often said the track which was gently descending withhe knew the coolestthis... people“We must who takeshare the similar left valuesfolk as and it islikemindedness. a much safer Livingtrack. ”a intoAnd itAtapuerca’s definitely and not arrivedjust a Camino there thingat – the Camino seems to have a differ- fastWe -arrivedpaced lifeat themeans village that of toCardenuela rely on my Riopico human where power we to stopped stop, slowat the down bar and 12noon.ent way ofWe dealing found themthe albergueout. The whereCamino is seen as a spiritual, religious experi- walkSam shoutedmeans that us a mycoffee, brain bananas can catch and up chocolate. to the rest (Sam of toldme. us When that ithe does, planned I have his weence planned for many to staypilgrims but itand was for not many open it offers– healing and insight.The longer you myyear brightest around walkingideas, I feelthe Camino.empowered, He apologised I can acknowledge to us as he my said strength he had and prayed capabil- for notwalk until or the 1pm. more Although challenging the cleaner the Camino was or trek, the bigger the Truth. iitti etos (snowsome tonhi ntheg I Caminofind har asd theo d hado n oneverrmall ywalked) and h itav ein ithensig hsnow.)ts driv Heen wasby i nat ugreatition present she would not let us in and we andguy clarityand we that were I cannotmost thankful even try he to looked create after at home. us. For some reason, my ability wereGiving left yourself trying the to giftshelter of time,under to a walkpine long distances in a foreign country with to tolerate more than maybe I would at home shines through (like forgetting to tree.culture We shock, decided language it was bestbarriers, to push long on. flights and travelling with unfamiliar peo- careHe left about us as daily it was showering) his goal to and make in theit to sameBurgos breath a further I can 16kms on but I said to ple might seem daunting, overwhelming and in itself, such a step outside the Cold, wet, mud and snow! haveLucy mywe biggestshould findinternal an albergue meltdown and about rest. runningWe found out the of localbu- municipal albergue comfort zone. tane(in the gas nextand beingvillage, unable Orbaneja) to brew where a coffee. we got Ah thea bed contra- for the night. It had a dictions!welcoming bar with a friendly If you are someone who is really time poor, leads an incredibly busy or stressful hospitalero. We settled in next to life, the Truth might be a bit more extreme than others. The Truth has had to Thean oilfact heater that these enjoying earthy a lessonsbeer andin the human school of life fight for your attention for a long time. Allow it in. arerecovering. really just It thehad Truth.been Learninga day to this drives me to keep challengingremember formyself many and reasons. seeking The trail day time and lead others to Travelling to seek a Truth might prove fruitless. And that’s OK. A Truth can’t hopefullywhen we experience were looked the Truthsafter theyby a need to grow to. be forced, sometimes you can ask for answers but you might get an answer to a Camino angel - Sam, the Italian different question and one that you didn’t even know you needed to ask. Lisaarchitect Murphy from (SA) New York City! Lisa is an Outdoor Leader, Travel Agent and Passionate Many would perhaps be disappointed if this giant Truth doesn’t happen for AdventurePhil & Lucy Traveller. Smith (SA) She runs Big Heart Adventures and them. It’s OK if it doesn’t – it might just mean the Truth is for you to experience Wise Woman Walking, and leads women on walking tours it as it is. In that moment of time. and also on bushwalks in the Adelaide Hills and in South Australia.

AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019 Page 1014 Page 1115 AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019

CAMINO QUIZ! (answers on page 21) 19. Where did the body of St James land in Spain? 20. Which country’s confraternity sends volunteers to Roncesvalles? And Los 1. What does Ultreya/Ultreia mean? Arcos? And Ponferrada? And Rabanal? 2. Why is it called the French Way? 21. What is ? 3. Why did pilgrims of old carry a calabash? 22. What are the two starting points of the Camino Inglés? Which one 4. What is this famous pilgrimage known as in English? qualifies you for a Compostela? 5. In 1985, the route of the pilgrimage was named one of UNESCO's what? 23. How much does a donativo albergue charge? 6. What is the date of St James's Day? 24. What is a queimada? 7. Which mollusc is generally regarded as a symbol of the Camino? 25. What is the main ingredient of ? 8. The earliest records of pilgrims arriving from England was in which 26. What is a ‘pilgrim menu’? period? a) between 702 and 730 b) between 890 and 902 c) between 1092 27. Name the ruined remains of a pilgrim hospital on the outskirts of and 1105? Navarrete? 9. The oldest route to Santiago is the Camino Primitivo. Where does it 28. A 17th century Italian pilgrim from Bologna called Domenico Laffi has an begin? albergue named after him in which Camino town? 10. If travelling the pilgrimage by bike, what distance needs to be travelled 29. What flag is this? to receive a certificate of accomplishment? 11. Who wrote and directed the The Way (2010) starring Martin Sheen? 12. Where is the wine fountain? 13. What colour stone is Astorga Cathedral made of? 14. What flag is this?

30. Where is this (above)? 31. What are the main ingredients of caldo gallego? 32. When is the next Holy Year? 33. How far is Sarria to Santiago? 15. What is the name of this chapel (above) and where is it? 34. Where is the halfway point of the Camino Francés? 16. What is the name of the incense burner in the Cathedral of Santiago? 35. What is the colloquial name for Padron peppers and why? And what is the proper name for such a burner? 36. What is the name of the secular (non-religious) certificate (not the Com- 17. What is the archaeological site near Burgos where exceptional archaeo- postela)? How many certificates can you get at the end of your Camino? logical remains were discovered in the late 20th century which now form 37. How many routes are there from Portugal to Santiago? the basis of the Museum of Human Evolution? 38. Where is the Pilgrim Mass in 18. Who and where is this statue? Santiago being held this year? 39. Where does the Via Tolasana start? 40. Which well-known Camino town is this?

Ines Jewell (Vic) & Alison Bell (SA)

AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019 Page 12 Page 13 AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019

PHILCAMINO’S DIARY: TRUTHS CAMINO FRANCES, APRIL/MAY 2018 So what do I mean by Truths? I am a believer that if you take yourself out of the We would have liked to have seen the museum regular routine of life and give yourbut brain the a conditions break from were the everyday,such that weyour probably brain is MondayThe Camino 9 April Truth – Villafranca is my way Montesof describing de Oca what to Orbanejahap- 26.7 kms going to do some very different thinking.would not have moved from our Todaypens whenhas been we undertakean amazing the day journey in so many of Caminoways. We – had a good night’s sleep in albergue. ourbut privateits not anroom exclusive in the CaminoSan Anton thing. Abad No Hotel/Albergue. way. The We were awake at 6am Couple that with new people to hang with, a bit of culture shock, walking long &Truth on the is tracka process by 7am that – readycan happen for the onclimb any over travel Alto Mojapan and Alto Pedraja distances (or up hills) and going offFrom the gridhere (if we you headed are lucky) off theand roadwell, and something onto a (1100experience, metres). particularly It was a ifsteep trekking climb or in walking pitch blackis part with of the headlight journey. on. We were called the subconscious mind will creeprough updirt from track behind and and we givewere you climbing. a tap on theWe overtaken quite early. As we climbed the German lass, Jenny (with the black shoulder or a good smack on your couldbum orhear spook gunfire you by in perhaps the distance appearing – maybeout of pilgrimAfter my hat) Camino caught journey up to usin soSeptember we chatted. 2018, As weI penned ascended a reflection it started about to rain the so nowhere when you least expect it withsome new sort information of army facility. that you The didn weather’t even know was weday put to dayour experiencesponchos on. andAmazingly emotions it wasfelt whilesoon snowing completing – there the finalwe were 115km climbing from about yourself. Whether it’s on thedeteriorating trails or perhaps and in thethe days,snow weeks was or monthsgetting withSarria the to snowflakesSantiago on swirling the popular around French us. Way. after returning home, allowing theheavier. subconscious Worst inof willall the permit track new we wereideas walkingto flow through, increase creativity and maybeon was even getting ask younarrower. to reassess I was yourquite relationship concerned II waswas privilegedreally pleased to travel that withwe both experienced handled Caminothe climb Host very Amanda well. whoThe hadconditions com- or career choices or something else.that it could snow over and we could have a deterioratedpleted this section and we twice had topreviously. pick our path The asCamino this was Truth a logging is familiar track to – her lots and of mudwe real problem finding our way. tohad try discussed and avoid. what We Truths were cold,the Camino our gloves might and hold forearms for us bothwere before wet, when we headed we ar- Sometimes the Truth will simply bring up an unhappiness or realisation that some- rivedto Spain. at San I wasJuan familiar de Ortega. with Here Truths we on found other a treksbar, grabbedand trips a Itable had doneand ordered previ- thing needs to change. Giving yourselfWe had the been gift offollowing time will a pilgrimsimply openand I thehad doorsaid coffee,ously. Some bananas of the and most cake. life Our-changing Danish friend,Truths Morton,for me had arrived happened and joined on the us Koko- so we to a new way of thinking. And livingto Lucylife. Whenthat we we must travel keep away up from with our him nearest as he discussedda Track, ourthe Incaplans Trail, for the Mt Kilirest and of onthe trails day. inOur Tasmania. plan had Thesebeen toTruths stay for at methe and dearest, this time away can createseemed a to space know that his way.they Wehaven reached’t experienced a memo- historicwere huge village – working of Atapuerca. through relationships, (Atapuerca, sitecareer of andseveral overcoming limestone shitty caves mental near withrial whereus. They he hadnot onlystopped missed to prayout on so thewe fun,stopped but theyto talk missed to him. out Ion expressed working outmy Burgoshealth inand northern realising Spain, I was strongerknown for than the I thought.abundant human (genus Homo) remains whatconcerns the butTruth he was told for us us,not howto worry we reached– he was it an and experienced will often pilgrimbe ill equipped walker and to discovered there beginning in 1976.) understandhe would walk the hugewith usleap and in showthinking us theand way.feeling, His oftenname inwas a reallySam andshort he space was anof Some of these Truths were so big at the time, I nearly got a tattoo after one of time.Italian So architect its important from New to realise York City. this andHe wasbe kind,our Camino to yourself angel! and to them. Wethem! left So before while mostI am familiarof the groupwith them,and I want to share what a Truth might pushedlook/feel on like. but Iby see now it happen it was on snowing trips when women travel with us from time to EveryThe track time reallyI have did trekked, get very I nearlythank indistinguishablemyself for choosing but toSam see led the on worldchecking on quitetime. heavily. We picked our way along foot.constantly It’s athat reflective, Lucy and beautiful I were OK. way We to reachedconnect awith fork nature,in the road myself and and Sam often said the track which was gently descending withhe knew the coolestthis... people“We must who takeshare the similar left valuesfolk as and it islikemindedness. a much safer Livingtrack. ”a intoAnd itAtapuerca’s definitely and not arrivedjust a Camino there thingat – the Camino seems to have a differ- fastWe -arrivedpaced lifeat themeans village that of toCardenuela rely on my Riopico human where power we to stopped stop, slowat the down bar and 12noon.ent way ofWe dealing found themthe albergueout. The whereCamino is seen as a spiritual, religious experi- walkSam shoutedmeans that us a mycoffee, brain bananas can catch and up chocolate. to the rest (Sam of toldme. us When that ithe does, planned I have his weence planned for many to staypilgrims but itand was for not many open it offers– healing and insight.The longer you myyear brightest around walkingideas, I feelthe Camino.empowered, He apologised I can acknowledge to us as he my said strength he had and prayed capabil- for notwalk until or the 1pm. more Although challenging the cleaner the Camino was or trek, the bigger the Truth. iitti etos (snowsome tonhi ntheg I Caminofind har asd theo d hado n oneverrmall ywalked) and h itav ein ithensig hsnow.)ts driv Heen wasby i nat ugreatition present she would not let us in and we andguy clarityand we that were I cannotmost thankful even try he to looked create after at home. us. For some reason, my ability wereGiving left yourself trying the to giftshelter of time,under to a walkpine long distances in a foreign country with to tolerate more than maybe I would at home shines through (like forgetting to tree.culture We shock, decided language it was bestbarriers, to push long on. flights and travelling with unfamiliar peo- careHe left about us as daily it was showering) his goal toand make in theit to sameBurgos breath a further I can 16kms on but I said to ple might seem daunting, overwhelming and in itself, such a step outside the Cold, wet, mud and snow! haveLucy mywe biggestshould findinternal an albergue meltdown and about rest. runningWe found out the of localbu- municipal albergue comfort zone. tane(in the gas nextand beingvillage, unable Orbaneja) to brew where a coffee. we got Ah thea bed contra- for the night. It had a dictions!welcoming bar with a friendly If you are someone who is really time poor, leads an incredibly busy or stressful hospitalero. We settled in next to life, the Truth might be a bit more extreme than others. The Truth has had to Thean oilfact heater that these enjoying earthy a lessonsbeer andin the human school of life fight for your attention for a long time. Allow it in. arerecovering. really just It thehad Truth.been Learninga day to this drives me to keep challengingremember formyself many and reasons. seeking The trail day time and lead others to Travelling to seek a Truth might prove fruitless. And that’s OK. A Truth can’t hopefullywhen we experience were looked the Truthsafter theyby a need to grow to. be forced, sometimes you can ask for answers but you might get an answer to a Camino angel - Sam, the Italian different question and one that you didn’t even know you needed to ask. Lisaarchitect Murphy from (SA) New York City! Lisa is an Outdoor Leader, Travel Agent and Passionate Many would perhaps be disappointed if this giant Truth doesn’t happen for AdventurePhil & Lucy Traveller. Smith (SA) She runs Big Heart Adventures and them. It’s OK if it doesn’t – it might just mean the Truth is for you to experience Wise Woman Walking, and leads women on walking tours it as it is. In that moment of time. and also on bushwalks in the Adelaide Hills and in South Australia.

AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019 Page 1014 Page 1511 AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019

PLAYof places REVIEW like the wine fountain at Irache, Cruz de Ferro, BOOK REVIEW him and try and reconcile his small stature and Tomas’ Albergue and the Templar castle at Ponferra- youth with his travel weary gear and his extensive

da. Café stops, offering the opportunity to practice our YOUR INNER CAMINO &collection AFTER THEof Camino CAMINO: travel pins and bracelets. In Recently I was privileged to view the premiere of a new play, Blister, written Spanish with friendly locals whilst indulging in our favour- (Set of 2 pocket books)most cases, they would walk over and introduce by one of our members, Sarah Peters. Directed by Tiffany Lyndall-Knight with a ite local treats became frequent occurrences. Author: Karin Kiser. Caminothemselves Chronicles and Press, ask 2019. him about his journey. By the musical score written and performed by Rachel Bruerville, it is full of energy, As such, we became accustomed to spreading our break- time we arrived in Leon, complete strangers were humour, and endearing pathos. It is obvious Sarah has walked the Camino. Only Your Inner Camino: Your Pocket Guide to Inspiration and Transformation fast and lunch over multiple stops throughout the day. coming over and asking if he was Leo from a pilgrim could know of the situations and emotions that the numerous charac- along the Camino de Santiago. Australia. As we travelled, I watched Leo’s ters found themselves in - the noise and snoring in the albergue, the exhaustion ThIs little book is not designed to be read before you start your Camino walk. The opportunity to interact with the local wildlife, dogs, confidence growing, and by journey’s end, it and drudgery, the less than private bathroom facilities, the despair, and of The words are more meaningful when you are actually on the Camino. In an cats and horses were embraced by my animal-loving son, seemed he knew most people on The Camino. I too course the elation. easy to read format, this little book provides the encouragement to put things as was adding to pilgrim path-side stone sculptures and found myself being approached by pilgrims, with in perspective, prioritise what is important and create a map for the journey fence stick tapestries. Similarly, many opportunities to One happy pilgrim several openly crying with emotion, telling me what a wonderful thing it was These tales were told by the lead character, Rosie, played convincingly by Ash- within. It is the ideal companion on the Camino, especially for those days which create a special experience presented themselves. Midway through the Meseta, I that we were doing and how they wished they had done something similar with ton Malcolm, along with her peregrino family. Ashton gave a convincing perfor- are challenging. discovered that I had walked through my trusty boots. After buying replace- their parents or children. mance portraying the initial nervousness and doubt, the exhilaration, then a ments, we carried the old ones to the highest point of The Camino and on a spot growing strength and compassion, as she dealt with the various A quote in the book from Howard Thurman, ‘Don’t ask what the world needs. with a commanding view of the mountains, we took the time to create a stone I felt incredibly rewarded to be able to be doing something that was continually peregrinos she met on her journey. Ask what makes you come alive and go do it. Because what the world needs is pyre and placed my old boots decorated with flowers on top. These opportunities being blessed and supported by our fellow travellers. The most special Camino more people who have come alive’ provides encouragement for more awareness were supplemented by some special pre-planned experiences. Leo’s first-ever relationship for Leo was reserved for Raphaela (see photo above), a young Ger- As on the Camino, this play was peopled with a variety of characters of all ages and positivity on the road. coffee was reserved for a cold, challenging day on the Meseta. Similarly, it had man pilgrim of similar age to Leo, who was travelling a portion of The Camino and cultural backgrounds. Characters like the 60-year olds Saskia and Paul from been agreed at outset that we would both get matching scallop shell tattoos on with her parents. Meeting on the third day of your journey, the two quickly Holland, poor English Grace who had no idea what she had committed to, the After the Camino: Your Pocket Guide to Integrating the Camino de Santiago our ankles if we completed the journey to Santiago. Alas Spanish law frustrated overcame shyness and language barriers to become inseparable travelling compassionate Maria from Spain, Judy and Kate from Australia, and an older into Your Daily Life. this last ambition, although a kind Tattooist drew a temporary shell on Leo’s companions. Both accomplished singers, they quickly became known on The Danish pilgrim called Fred. Some characters touched a chord, one being This book is a gem and guides readers into changing their mindset so that the ankle which he proudly displayed for several days. Each afternoon, we arrived at Camino for the laughter and songs they brought with them. The joy Leo and Alexander, a lonely, reticent, middle-aged Dane who had come on the Camino spirit of the Camino can live on when we return home. The contemplations and the day’s destination, usually several hours after our fellow pilgrims. At the Raphaela shared, the friendships made, the laughter and the struggles made my with a notebook in which people were to write greetings for him to read when suggestions help us to simplify our lives, let go of unhelpful thoughts and behav- time, I was concerned that arriving late meant we had little time at day’s end to first Camino experience truly special – but undoubtedly it was made even more he was older, and even more lonely. These characters, and more, were played iours and add more meaning to daily life. I appreciate the simple, yet thought- do more than find a place to stay, wash and eat before hitting the sack. On so, with my son at my side. At time of writing, planning is afoot for Leo to by the talented duo of Hew Parham and Tamara Lee Collins. They flitted ful way in which the author supports us in integrating the learnings from our reflection, it strikes me that travelling with a young pilgrim ensured that we undertake a school language exchange to Germany in 2 years to visit Raphaela. between characters as they leapt effortlessly around the world, from being an Camino walk into living with more awareness at home. really did ‘stop and smell the roses’ and absorb Camino experiences that I would They also want to reconvene in Logrono, after finishing high school, and com- American peregrino, to a French, Welsh, German or a Canadian to name a few. probably have simply passed by, had I been on my own. plete their shared section of The Camino together. Each change was convincing, and no doubt pilgrims in the audience had visions One example is ‘Forget about someday.’ On the Camino you were probably not

of similar peregrinos that they had met on their Camino. They had thinking that someday you would do something significant. You were anchored It’s all about the People Some final words numerous idiosyncrasies and some became part of Rosie’s peregrino family. to the present, through the need to be focussed on each step. This guide en- It was clearly apparent that whilst Leo will remember experiencing the sights, From our shared experience I heartily recommend travelling the CF with a young courages us to continue living like this, to take up the opportunity to live life sounds, and culture of a country very different to our own, it was clearly the son or daughter. Whilst there are specific considerations that go with this (eg Nearing Santiago, Rosie had some memorable dialogue… The familiarity of the now. people we met that made it a truly special experience for him. It quickly became additional travel time, flexibility etc) the rewards Camino. In a country where I barely speak the language – with people I didn’t apparent that Leo was genuinely interested and very capable of interacting with and memories are truly unique, and very different know a month ago - I find this routine very comforting. All you have to do is Unlike most other Camino guides, Karin Kiser does not provide advice on equip- locals and fellow pilgrims of all backgrounds and ages. With a handful of notable to those experienced by walking the Camino alone put one foot in front of the other - and ment, the routes or accommodation. Instead she addresses the deeper issues exceptions, he insisted we stay in dormitory albergue accommodation each night or with an adult. Our journey confirmed my keep your pack as light as possible. Like- that prompt all sorts of people to walk the Camino. Karin is the founder of and whilst I unpacked our kit, he would go around the room and talk with all the thoughts that The Camino is a positive place to wise, these poignant lines: I love the ‘Radical Simplicity’ and the author of the bestseller Lighten your Load. She pilgrims , enquiring “where do you come from?”, followed up with “if it is not spend some quality parent-child time, and we are simplicity of the Camino. The slowness lives in California and has been on and off the Camino de Santiago since 2011 – too personal, why are you doing The Camino?” I never saw a pilgrim not stop making plans for a return journey with my 15 year of travelling by foot…. There’s some- as a pilgrim, as a albergue hospitalera and as a volunteer rubbish collector along what they were doing to engage with him in an animated, jovial and lengthy con- old daughter in 2020. thing about how we are on the Camino the route. versation. He was also happy to share his story of why he was doing the Camino – that is teaching me about how I want to and I think it was his open and honest manner that endeared him to so many For those who are interested, I wrote a daily blog be in life. This set of 2 books was published earlier this year and are certainly worth read- people. We encountered very few young pilgrims on our journey. With a handful during Leo’s Camino, including a detailed list of our ing. To order the digital or Kindle editions, see www.Amazon.com To order of exceptions, the youngest group would have been in their mid-20’s and the gearthe light, and the thin places paperback we stayed. editions, This see can www.CaminoChroniclesPress.com be found at: $14.95 average age would have easily been mid-40’s. On account of his young age and Janet Leitch OAM (SA) https://leocamino.home.blog/author/leocamino/per set. Sarahoutgoing can bepersonality, contacted at: Leo was fairly unique and became the centre of interest My backpack was my very best friend wherever we travelled. It was always interesting to watch fellow pilgrims look at along the trail [email protected] JamesChrista Sage Megaw (SA) (SA) James & Leo in Galicia

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ME,SENTIER LEO ANDST JACQUES THE CAMI (CHEMINNO... DE COMPOSTELLE) sorenessThe mighty and Loire, a bit at of Saint sunburn.Maurice In short, thingsFortunately, went as the smoothly information as I perceive centre is they still AGR FATHER 765 AND AND 765O, SON Cluny JOURNEY to Le PuyenVelay, June 2019 can on The Camino. open. They have a key to an empty three- bedroom place with a view. Donate what InIt’ s Aprilofficial. this This year, area I hadwas a packingrecord heatto walkwave the(la canicule) during my hike. It was Managing the Physical Challenge you wish. The shops are closed. The res- Caminoa scorching Francés 37C ,on a thejourney afternoon that I I hadentered been Montbrison plan- (Loire). The next day, June To make the physical challenge manageabletaurant for anda child a serve we had of C severalôtes du strategies. Rhône are ning27, one for stationseveral hityears. an allA -fewtime months Haute Loirebefore high the of 41C. Low to middle 30Cs fol- In addition to minimising the physical loadno hardship.we also started with shorter days and journey,lowed me, I askedall five my days 12 fromyear oldMontbrison son, Leo to to the join finish at Le Puy. As our communal gradually built up distance as we strengthened. Our first night was spent at Oris- me,table and enjoyed in doing traditional so changed Le Puy what lentils was at to Grand be a Séminaire gîte, finally, an even- son, a mere 8km up the road, but it madeOn the the Sundaynext leg morning, into Roncesvalles another patis-more personaling storm undertaking, moderated the into heat a special a little. shared I had expe- scheduled the hike before, not after, manageable. Or journey loosely followedserie the Brierleybeckons, guide, at Saint although-Andr éwe-d’ Apchon.allocat- riencethe FIFA between Women ’fathers World and Cup son finals that in will Lyon be 2treas--7 July. In the Loire, June is supposed Ited’s afun travel to visit time the of Sunday40 days marketto give insome Saint latitude-Alban -andles- Eaux.rest days. Except We for found the 23kmbig fire or- uredto be by a bitboth cooler of us than for the July. rest This of year,our lives. both months were unusually hot. truckso to bethat a sustainabletotally screens daily the distance, balisage although marking when the correctbeds were route scarce, down we through occa- thesionally village walked park. 30kms Quickly, or more. I retrace false steps. Just past Chatelus castle, a little WhyMy bible was the French-language Fédération Française Randonnée (FFR) guide for stone bridge indicates the route eastwards to touristic Saint-Maurice-sur-Loire. TheCluny Camino to Le Puy. seemed The formeran ideal town setting is about to spend90km north of Lyon, the latter 130km AtWhilst the Loire,I am a oncebit of again, a purist, the weinformation agreed to centre not die holds in a the ditch key if towe the needed empty to g îtakete. somesouthwest. quality My time mobile with phone Leo, heldby virtue back -ofup itsmaps duration for Loire and andnature, Haute particularly Loire dépar- as a bus to make the trip manageable and enjoyable. We followed the advice of manytements of .my I sought most torewarding cover the moments 300km in with 13 nights.my children have occurred whilst tak- Nextprevious day, travellers the heat andescalates. bussed Entering the final tiny kilometres Dancé, ainto chatty both local Burgos has and open Leon house to ing a walk. I wanted to show him that the world can be a wonderful and safe andavoid draughts he suburbs of water. and lengthen I rehydrate, our plannedjust down rest the periods road at in Amions. those cities. Luckily, Similarly, there’s place.It’s a tricky It was section. also a chanceNot so muchto show topographically. him that sometimes The only things steep can gain be is hard to sum- and aon proper a number fountain. of occasions Parks or whenpublic faced toilets with in rurala long France, day’s shouldwalking, you we find forwarded them at challenging,mit Mont Saint even-Rigaud for hislookout Dad, (1000m but that elevation) ultimately on suchthe second things day.can Itbe’s overcomemore the all,Leo ’sare main surprisingly pack to our often destination BYO water. town. AOverall few moreit became hare oursightings, intention the to forestmove andawkward amazing gaps things between can be settlements achieved. Likeand walkingthe sparse 800km! accommodation. Local press throughat the same Pallance, pace aas vista our Caminoof autoroute Family,, and so therethat we’s medieval could stay Pommiers in contact.-en- Forez.A bus estimates just 1500 pilgrims in 10 years. That’s tiny traffic by Spanish Camino Theleg wastourist always centre followed is eager by ato rest show day off to the keep ancient us in sync.priory Ultimately and church. Leo I managedprefer to Preparationsstandards. I met just 7 pilgrims, 8 with the dog. All fast-striding Germans. showerthe physical first atchallenge the gîte very. Corroborating well, having the only press a single story, day this of gblistersîte has andlogged the barelyusual In preparing for the Camino, we focussed a lot on what gear to take, a reasonable 50minor guests aches since and March. pains. IIn walk the downend we for completed pizza quatre the fromagesjourney in with 37 days. wine from dis- amountDespite theon fitness,isolation, and there very were little communal on pre-planning. gîtes or Wechambres set ourselves d’hôtes thehalf task of the of tant Béziers. packingtime. But as forlight the as Spossibleéminaire, and I had in the these end all our to combined myself. Otherwise, pack weight I bookedwas around into Walking with Leo 12.5hotels kgs, or lodgings.with Leo carryingAfter one 4kg 37km and-day me thatcarrying finished the balance.late in Propi Fitnessères, was the a g bitîte ofwas a JustI suspect past Pommiers,that for most a shop readers,-sign warnsthe thought of a long of walkinggap to theday nextafter coffee day through shop. An a hitlocked and and miss hotel affair. full. I am“Courage a cyclist” smirked and supplemented the hotel lady. my I backtrackedbase fitness towith a grassysome underwhelmingforeign country with20km little debouches more than on yourto the thoughts communal to contend jardins with, de isl ’aAstr visionée. ofIn targetedbit of chemin weight and loss inflated and regular my mini hikes mattress. with a heavy pack. Leo did a few hikes to searchUtopia. of This Montverdun, was not the the case straight for my-ahead young is son,blocked. who Thehas aright love-hander of sleeping can’t in,be break his boots in, but was not so easily motivated to train beforehand, and in the correct.and of things You gothat sharp will left,activate over anda poorly captivate signed his grassy mind. track.While AtopI wanted the volcanicto wind end,If that as washe playsa tough a bit day, of sport,I lucked and out is young,on the I morrow.figured he Closing would onwalk the himself 36km into picdown, Montverdun on The Way,’s impressivelyLeo seemed toancient do the priory opposite. offers Getting an impressively up and moving cavernous each fitnessCharlieu, without we heard too thatmuch its drama, accommodation which is whatwas allhappened. taken. I hitchedOther preparations a ride 6km dorm.morning Would was thea challenge wilted monsieur that involved care to various purchase combinations wine, plus dinnerof bribery, sent upentice- from werefurther minimal with onebeyond of thean arrivalGermans. date, A riversidea departure caravan date andwaited the atBrierley Pouilly guide--sous- thements village? and threats,Sure, you and talked it was me normal into it. for Wine us to appears be the directly. last to leave But the our attendants albergue. book.Charlieu It wascampsite. our plan Hot to showers.ensure we Soft could beds. experience For €7, la each patronne day and served place up according chicken scarperThis morning and the ritual meal did never not go materialises. unnoticed and Quel a fellow dommage pilgrim. I raideventually the leftovers spoke toin tonuggets, how we frites, were andfeeling, Bordeaux. which Classicworked cuisine. very well I couldn for us.’ t go past Pouilly patisserie, thecomfort big communal me. “You fridges.have such Something a good relationship rabbit, I think with it your son, you always speak before crossing the Loire on the grand bridge. The next four days become the was.calmly Less and said never the raisebetter. your voice.” She went on to explain that there was anoth- Our Journey er Antipodean family travelling a few days ahead of us that used volume and most charming phase. It’s one postcard Wall creepers, at Saint-Haon Forvillage context, after another.here is the Reader’s Digest summary of our journey essentials. We Beyondcolourful Montverdun, language to there get ’theirs a shady children stroll on the for- Day 2: Pyrenees (100kph winds) began in St Jean Pied de Port on a cold and cloudy day in mid-April and walked estedmoving. slopes It was of niceMont tod’ Izore.know thatChampdieu I was- bar et tabac intoFirst Santiagoup, Saint on- Haona beautiful-le-Châ tel,late -aSpring deli- day 36 days later. We walked most days, offersn’t the beer only and one ice facing water. this The challenge. big town of Montbrison takingcate fortified just two affair rest daysatop in a Burgoshill with and a Leon, but supplemented these with some isThe 7km motivation further on, and with attention no shade span from of the heat. Re- shortview. distanceThe walls days. are We decorated travelled throughwith a range of weather conditions, from coverymy Little is a Pilgrimcold hotel were shower very andimportant a visit to the near- nearcreepers freezing and temperatureshistorical Haon and 100kmhphotos. winds in the Pyrenees, to warm days in estaspects supermarket. of shaping The our next journey. day takes Whilst me up and over theEach mid photo to highhas a30’ matchings on the placard, Meseta. with However, in the main we were blessed with anotheradults are volcanic content cone, to Monsupt.set a day All-long goes smoothly, finean aptsunny quote conditions from anda French donned author. our wet weather gear only a handful of times. tillobjective just past of walkingthe village towards of Marols a distant in mid afternoon. DuringMy hero, our Flaubert, journey thereis included. occurred Even two the lengthy public holidays during which Span- Bamboozleddestination, byit becametoo many important rather than for ustoo few signs, I iardschildren flocked’s play to theequipment outdoors. Thishas resultedbeen in a scarcity of accommodation, and a quitto find the bursts forest of for motivation the sealed and road. interest It will rejoin the fewfashioned moments into of the anxiety shape on of my a part,fairytale but we managed. Physically we did not suffer cheminthroughout soon theenough. day. This included in- any ailments that significantly impeded our progress beyond the usual blisters, vesting time to make specialPommiers, memories decorations in the castle. priory museum

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View from the peak at Climbing into La Chapelle-en-Lafaye MontverdunPROG R(1070m),AM the late-afternoon light is CAMIN0 QUIZP (fromROG pagesRA 12M13) —ANSWERS amazing. The auberge isn’t open so FRIDAY I’ll self-cater. The deserted gîte is 1. SUNOnward!DAY unlocked. You pin your 15-euro fee to 2. Because it followed the path from Cluny in France to SdC 3.30-5.00 Registration the notice board and admire the view. 3. orninTo hold drinking water 4.00-5.30 Books/maps/travel displays in Wayirrirti Room 4. The Way of St. James (or St James Path) After La Chapelle, just past Montarch- 5. World CA Heritage Sites AA 5.30 Welcome & Conference opening CHAPEL er, the chemin forks left onto 765E 6. 25 JulyCur erie (Rev Cam West & Rev Christa Megaw) CA 6.00 Drinks on the terrace and right onto 765O. The latter option 7. Scallop shell is 20km shorter and much less steep. 8. c) betweenon rierle 1092 and: “The 1105 Camino as a path of self-discovery” CHAPEL 6.45 DINNER 9. Oviedo : G A The next8.00 two Singingdays are workshop vintage Hautewith Jessie Loire. Vintila There - andare Galicianlong traverses songs! through pine 10. 200km rather than broadleaf forest, on higher slopes closer to 1000m. WAYIRRIRTI Pretty, ROOM but larger 11. Emilio on Estevez1 rierle :“Guiding the Camino: Past,Present,Future“ CHAPEL gaps between villages call for navigational caution. Spotting my bruised toes, hosts 12. Irache in the valleySATU atR PontempeyratDAY offer up a better class of band-aid. Plus more rabbit. 13. Pink and grey There’sMorning no TV. I can ’t join the French millions to watch the soccer quarterfinal 14. Galicia A ummar against USA. 15. Church of St Mary at Eunate 7.30 CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST 16. Botafumeiro C /Thurible Track maintenance Books seems & equipment haphazard displays in these all day parts. Leaving the hillside hamlet of 17. :Atapuerca ilrim lessin eremon CA Boudoux, the chemin appears to vanish in long grass. Reassured by precise FFR 18. El Cid in Burgos wordings,9.00 I locateDr Francisco the bridge Singul in the: “The valley Way just Ahead below.” It ’s not far to myCHAPEL sweltering 19. PadronClose areell west-facing hotel room at Bellevue-la-Montagne. 20. Holland; Belgium; Switzerland; Britain 10:00 Rev Cameron West & Isobel Thomas: “Spirituality & the Camino” : epart. CHAPEL 21. A herbal liquor that comes in 3 main flavours and is used as a digestif. Next day, pine forest yields to scenic back-roads and pastures. At the locality of (And sometimes a heartstarter.) Freyenet,10.30 I realise Morning that tea the official chemin veers off the road and up through a 22. Ferrol and La Coruña. Ferrol fenced-11:00off pasture. Max Mastrosavas This is a : highly“Art on unusual the Caminos occurrence.” A jury-riggedCHAPEL electric 23. !! John Brierley fence nips playfully as you squeeze through. 24. A celebratory liquor drink that is set alight before serving. 11:30 Aust’n Camino Groups panel: Introduction & Activities CHAPEL will be available to meet and talk with pilgrims throughout the 25. Ground almond weekend. John is challenging us to consider the Camino as a pow- From Bellevue12.30 LUNCH to Saint Paulien is only a 12km day. It seems like a clever choice, 26. All answers are correct! erful agent of change to help us deal with the increasingly urgent spurningAfternoon the dusty hotel for a private room on the edge of town. Merde, the big 27. Hospital de San Juan de Acre supermarket that I had earmarked is never open on Sunday. It’s back into town, 28. El Burgosocial, Ranero economic and environmental problems of our time. for one1:30 last tiltWorkshops at the restaurants.: Challenges for the next decade CHAPEL 29. Asturias A bold challenge indeed! OR Introduction to walking the Camino: Tips for beginners 30. Puenta la Reina The final day is also brief. It takes a few goes to find the correct exit from Nolhac 31. White beans, potatoes and grellos (greens) village. FFR insists that I must(with split Julie “-Annele terrain Milne )de boules et le lavoir(TBA)” (the boules 32. 2021 pitch and2.45 the Afternoonwashhouse). tea Certainly narrows the options. After the big downhill 33. 116kms into Communac hamlet, the ascending right-hander is not marked, not that I can 34. Sahagun discern.3.15 It’ s 70mFeedback past thefrom bridge, workshop FFR sessions confirms. (everyone Further welcome) on, the highCHAPEL fortress of 35. Russian roulette.‘ [EveryChallenges now andfor thethen next one decade of the ’peppers will be hot!] Polignac4:00 is visible Fran fromWest: several “Photography kilometres on the away. Camino Now” the cobblestones CHAPEL of Le Puy 36. CertificateThis workshop of Welcome. on Saturday 3 Certificates: will provide Compostela, a chance to Certificate explore of old town are very close to hand. issues, challenges and opportunities for the Way of St James in 4.30 Tour operators panel: “Guided tours of the Camino” CHAPEL welcome, Distance Certificate 37. Howthe many years people ahead do for you pilgrims know whoseas well first as forCamino Australian has been Friends their last? Lingering yet is the (Raw mystery Travel; of Sing the thefemale Camino; operatic Big Heart voice Adventures) floating out of the woods. 38. Theof Church the Camino. of San InFrancisco preparation, we suggest you read Rebekah She accompanied5.00 Drinks me, on theall terracealong the ridgeline preceding the start of the Saint- 39. ArlesScott's 2017 article which will be in your registration pack. Rigaud ascent. I don’t believe it was a recording. 40. O CebreiroRebekah is a writer and an avid supporter of the Camino 6.30 DINNER: with speaker Dee Nolan: “Food & wine on the Camino” who moved from the US to Spain to establish Stephen8.30 Saunders Dan Mullins (ACT) : Musician WAYIRRIRTI ROOM How ‘manyPeaceable answers Kingdom ’did in Moratinos. you know???

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CHAIRMAN’S CHAT DID YOU KNOW ? ? ? AustralianB I E N Friends V E N of I the D CaminoO... TEAMWORK. A word that says much, especially when reflecting on the teams of wonderful peopleDIFFERENT making things SANTIAGO, work along the SAME Camino. ST JAMES to the latest Aussie Camino group!

~ NEWCASTLE, NSW ~ There are those who give 2 weeks of their time to help at the Pilgrim Office, dealing with exhilarated but tired pilgrims on their arrival in Santiago. They “I’ve undertaken to start a Newcastle Camino Group in Newcastle NSW. calmly deal with all nationalities, deciphering unusual writing on credencials, We should appeal to pilgrims and interested walkers in the Hunter Region

coping with special requests, establishing which routes pilgrims have walked, and ~ The waso Newcastlerd has is s thepr majoread acityc rofo thess Hunter. Aust ralia ~ issuing the all-important Compostela. It is tiring work, requiring concentration, a Initially I’ve opened a Facebook page which has details of the group. friendly smile and tact, but it is done with enthusiasm and willingness. Our first gathering will be the first Saturday in November at 9.00am, 1113 October at Bar Beach Kiosk, Bar Beach. isI have Conference walked the timeCamino in de Adelaide Santiago, Volunteer teams of Hospitaleros staff albergues pilgrims stay in. Often exhaust- forCamino everyone Portuguese with & Kumano an interest Kodo Japan. in the” ing work, with the Hospitaleros generally the first up and the last to bed. Be- tween farewelling one group of pilgrims and welcoming the next, the whole al- For furtherCamino information, de Santiago! please contact bergue is cleaned and shopping done – sometimes in a distant town. These gener- Juliet Clark m: 0411744041 or ous people are invaluable in making a successful Camino for pilgrims. Pilgrims are email:coming [email protected] from far and wide to participate in the first national Australian Friends of the Camino conference! Another volunteer team, the Camino Chaplaincy is staffed with members who *** See the full program on the next two pages *** help and support pilgrims on their spiritual journey as they arrive in Santia- TIPS & HINTS FOR WALKING A CAMINO

go. They too work long and hard for the benefit of you, the pilgrim. This will be a great chance to relive the memories of your Camino(s) - GIVEAWAY SOUVENIRS Recently we were stuck in Santiago de Chile for 24 hours due to missing our or learn what you need to know for your first Camino journey. In recent yearsconnection AFotC has fromhad Limamembers to Australia. volunteering What afor bonus! roles in all of these Everyone will meet old friends or make new ones, teamsWe and then we made are itvery our appreciativemission to discover of their St contributions.James—we knew Recently he had Ito read be the If you wantand to take we’ll something all share the (lightweight!) spirit and camaraderie to give- of El Camino inspiringthere somewhere! and moving AfterCamino catching book I ’all taxi Push to You Plaza. Two de Armas, friends, we Justin perambulated and Patrick, away to new-foufornd one frie wonderfulnds or help weekendmates w hinil ethe on Adelaide hills. showedaround just the what large teamwork square untilcould we do. discovered Not just thethey humble themselves, statue. but And their then fellow your Camino, these tiny flags might do the trick. You’ll find the full program in this edition of the Camino Chronicle. pilgrimsthere he along was onthe top way, of thevolunteered Cathedral to as help well oneas inside solitary (but pilgrim to one achieve side, not his the goal Some pilgrims take tiny souvenir koalas or even of reaching Santiago. Pushing amajor wheelchair attraction). through mud, up mountains, and over Aussie postcardsAll Conference… kangaroos participants and koalas will never receive fail a printed copy such long distances could only be achieved by teamwork, whether a team of two to please!in their Registration bag on arrival at the Nunyara Conference Centre, or a dozen. Inspired by this expedition, others have formed teams and pushed along with a host of other information about Adelaide, and a few little surprises, Other giveaways might be Aussie stickers, magnets people unable to walk themselves, including a team setting off in October from thanks to our wonderful sponsors and donors. or tiny boomerangs. the Blue Mountains Camino Group. AlisonAs Bell well (SA) as the diverse range of presentations throughout the weekend, we’ll all be singing Galician songs with JessieSend Vintila your TIPS on Friday& HINTS evening, to Sometimes teams can be seen working along the Camino, though often only the [email protected] and enjoying a top-class performance from well-known entertainer results of their efforts, such as the annual rubbish collection on the Meseta, are and podcaster Dan Mullins on Saturday night. seen. The Camino might be a solitary experience for a pilgrim, but it is the “In sunshine and shadow, from darkness till noon. teams of volunteers that make it the success it is. If you haven’t already booked, it is still possible to come Over mountains that reach from the sky to the moon for the whole weekend, or even just for one day. A man with a dream that will never let go Here in Australia another team has been working hard over the past year - To book, go to www.afotc.orgKeeps searching and to you find’ll find El Dorado.a link to” the Booking Form the team planning the upcoming Camino Conference being held in Adelaide in and details for payment. Everyone is welcome, so encourage friends and family October. This team has organised what will be an innovative, interesting, and to book too if they’d likeFrom to the know movie andmore title about song El thisDorado wonderful experience stimulating programme of events (pp4-5) At the time of writing there are still called “The Camino” that you’re always talking about! beds available - so if Alisonyou haven Bell’ andt already Sandra booked, Margaret why (SA) not grab this opportunity to come and mingle with fellow Camino enthusiasts. ButWe hurry!!love to receive Places your areideas, filling photographs quickly. and suggestions! Send to the editor at [email protected] www.afotc.org Janet Leitch OAM (SA) AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019 PagePage 22 2 Page 323 AFotC Newsletter #30 September 2019

“We are pilgrims on a journey, we’re companions on the road; we are here to help each other Camino Chronicle walk the mile and bear the load.

I will weep when you are weeping. When you laugh, I'll laugh with you. I will share your joy and sorrow Till we've seen this journey through.”

These words from Richard Gillard’s The Servant Song, remind us that we’re all on a journey, outward physical journeys and inner spiritual journeys. The ancient tradition of pilgrimage is alive and well! Below is the full poem.

The Servant Song

Brother, let me be your servant. Let me be as Christ to you. Pray that I might have the grace To let you be my servant, too. We are pilgrims on a journey. We are brothers on the road. We are here to help each other Walk the mile and bear the load. NATIONAL CONFERENCE Nunyara Conference Centre, Adelaide, SA .11-13 Oct 2019 I will hold the Christ-light for you In the night time of your fear. PROVISIONAL PROGRAM INSIDE—SEE WEBSITE TO BOOK I will hold my hand out to you; Speak the peace you long to hear. ~ Closing date extended to 4 October ~ I will weep when you are weeping. When you laugh, I'll laugh with you. I will share your joy and sorrow Till we've seen this journey through. Australian Friends of the Camino When we sing to God in heaven, Patron: Sr Manuel Cacho, Ambassador of Spain, Canberra We shall find such harmony Born of all we've known together Of Christ's love and agony. Newsletter No 30, September 2019 Brother, let me be your servant. Let me be as Christ to you. Pray that I might have the grace To let you be my servant, too.

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