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Guide to the City of Santiago De Compostela

Guide to the City of Santiago De Compostela

de Compostela WORLD HERITAGE CITY UNITED KINGDOM Dublin IRELAND

London

Paris

FRANCE

Cantabrian Sea

Santiago de Compostela

SPAIN PORTUGAL Madrid

Lisbon

Mediterranean Sea

Atlantic Ceuta Ocean Melilla ALGERIA

MOROCCO Punta de la HighwayAutopista s Estaca de Bares ira o a Cabo e ir Highway-DualAutovía carriageway t u e l ig v rt i NationalCarretera road nacional A O V Cariño e ra er e d "A"C. RedRoad básica 1 orden d San Andrés a a ra Punta í í "B"C. RedRoad básica 2º orden s de Teixido R a Candelaria LocalCarretera Road local í Mosende Seixo FrenchCamino Pilgrims' de Santiago Way Francés R OtherOtros CaminosPilgrims' Ways RailwayFerrocarril Vila da Senra Atios Caión P Igrexa Parador OCÉANO Cabanas s Shrine-MonasterySantuario-Monasterio Valdoviño Felgosa Piñeiro CastleCastillo Aviño Grañas Pe da Meiras Insua MonumentMonumento Av. do Marqués Deveso Veiga Cabo Prior Cobas Pereiro HistoricRuinas históricasruins de Figueroa Seixas CampCamping site A TLÁNTICO Gándara Igrexa Embalse de PanoramicVista panorámica view Uceira la Ribeira Viveiró R O Vilar P San Ramón í Espiñaredo GolfCampo course de golf a Neda Igrexafeita d SpaBalneario e Muras F MarinaPuerto deportivo Ría de Areserr y N-651 ol As Pontes de Lousada

Torto A LighthouseFaro d Ares Cabanas Goente García Rodríguez Ría e 53 km Cor uñ Eume AirportAeropuerto a Boebre Eume Dexo Miraz Cabreiros WorldPatrimonio Heritage de la Site Humanidad Islas Candiá Sisargas A CORUÑA Santa Cruz Sada Perbes Embalse Cabo Armada Candamil San Adrián del Eume Pta. Morujo Miño N-634 Nariga Oleiros A Baiuca O Campo P Caión Carballido Beo Malpica da Feira Betanzos Pta. Niñons Razo Pazo de Roncudo Andeiro Buriz Corme Cores A-55 Loureda Torre Mebegondo Ría de Corme Paiosaco Churrío y Cabovilaños Coiros Feira do Veiga Ponte- Parga Laracha Coiro de Arriba (S. Salvador) Monte Laxe Campo Oza Cabo Pumar San Marco A-6 Tosto Carballa da Feira Bahamonde N-VI Tam oga Rius Guitíriz Cabo Margarida San Roque A Queimada Magro Silva Parga Vilán Nande Paradela Texe iro (S. Breixo) Rábade Agualada Erbecedo Queixas N-550 Vizoño Ría de Camariñas Mariz Cama Salto Curtis Sta. Eulalia riñ Esternanande Anxeriz Leira Outeiro A as Ponte Vilar Mesía Pontepedra Anafreita Ousá de Rei PONFERRADA 127 km do Porto Zas de Cima Puebla Cruces Castriz Ru Muxía Vilaseco Loroño Cabo Moraime Ombreiro Bazar Viaño San Mauro Roimil Cotá Touriñán Berdoias Castrelo Val do Pequeno A-9 N-634 Santa Comba Dubra Sobrado Touriñán Baiñas Grixoa Pastor dos Monxes Xial Caberta Embalse da Gándara A CORUÑA Paradela Dumbría Fervenza Suevos Bóveda Lires Antes Entrepuentes Senra Souto Calde Carboal Olveira Fontecada re Berdia mb Focha Mera Corcubión Ta Sigüeiro A C I Z O G A L A I C O Cée Atán San Vicente A Peregrina Tarr oeira M Picota Albite Melide A Pena N-547 Ezaro Arzúa o O Pedrouzo í P Brandeso O Pindo R Fonte Díaz n Guntin ó Coiro Santiago de Pezobre i Pedrouzos b Quilmas Arzón Cabo u Valadares Compostela LUGO c Embalse de Agro do Chao Fisterra r Bertamirans o Portodemouros C Forte Vilar A e Sestaio N-550 Pena d A Barquiña Aguasantas SARRIÁ 14 km ía Seira R Ramallosa Portobravo Golada Louro Aldaris Bodaño a Padrón lla N-640 oi Portosín Santeles U N y Fallara N O Pta. Carreiro s Tallós (Enfesta) N-640 IÑ ro M u Porto Bealo Río Ponte-Valga M Valga e do A V acariza A Estrada N-525 d Baroña Emb. de Rías ia Carracedo Lalín Belesar R A Pobra do Pesqueira a us Carril Baixas Caramiñal ro e A Aceberro Escala 1 : 800.000 ia d Forcarey R O Vilagarcía 0 10 20 ê 30 Km Cabo Corrubedo Sta. Uxía de Reis R Corrubedo de Arousa (Ribeira) P CARTOGRAFêA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35 Cabo Falcoeiro Aguiño Tel. 91 416 73 41 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2001 A PONTEVEDRA 10 Km A OURENSE 30 km A OURENSE 24 km Index of Santiago

2 ...... Introduction 4 ...... Getting there 5 ...... Where to stay 5 ...... Practical advice 6 ...... Itineraries in the City 23 ...... Museums and art centres 28 ...... Parks and gardens 29 ...... Cultural activities and entertainment 30 ...... Art Galleries and antique-shops 30 ...... For golf enthusiasts 31 ...... Eating and drinking 32 ...... Shopping 33 ...... Night-life 34 ...... Fiestas of general interest 35 ...... Trade fairs 36 ...... Getting around the city 36 ...... Post offices 37 ...... Emergency services 38 ...... Excursions from Santiago 45 ...... Tourist information 46...... Map of the province 48 ...... City Map SANTIAGO I ntroduction

Recently declared by UNESCO to be a World Heritage Site, and built on a hill encircled by the river Sar and its tributary the river Sarela, is situated in the north- east of Spain in the province of A Coruña.

Santiago de Compostela was born from a legend: the discovery in 813 A.D. of the sepulchre of St. James the Apostle who was beheaded in 44 A.D. in Palestine. King Alfonso II visited the site and ord- ered a modest temple and monastery to be built, erecting the center around which the city later grew.

Alfonso III built the ancient basilica at the end of the 9th Century. It was destroyed during the Moorish invasion of Almanzor in the year 997 A.D. which completely devastated the city. Santiago was rebuilt and encircled by a wall. In 1075 A.D. Bishop Diego Peláez began the building-works on the cathedral, which continued under the efficient supervision of Bishop Diego Gelmírez, a key figure in the development of the city.

The 11th and 12th Centuries were the hey-days of the pilgrimages to Compostela. The Pilgrim’s road to Santiago de Compostela was an extremely effi- cient means of scientific, artistic and literary com- munication. Within the unmistakably rural region of , Santiago became an important centre

2 of economic and cultural activity, a melting pot of distant cultures and civilizations. At the end of the 12th Century the master-craftsman Mateo built the Pórtico de la Gloria (Gateway to Glory).

The end of the 14th Century witnessed the start of a turbulent period which lasted into the 15th Century. The arrival of Archbishop Fonseca, the founder of the University, marked the beginning of the Renaissance in Compostela. It was the Catholic Monarchs who brought the Court to the city in 1501. In 1534 the Royal Hospital and Colegio de Fonseca were built.

At the end of the 17th Century it was the archbish- ops and religious orders who promoted the Baroque building frenzy which created a school of its own in the 18th Century. This style pervades the historic center of Santiago –the cathedral, the monasteries and the churches– and gives it the unique character which persists today.

Apart from being famous for its university, mon- uments and religious and commercial activity, this city of 105,000 inhabitants is also a major centre of administration, having become the capi- tal of the Autonomous Community of Galicia in 1982. It is the seat of the Xunta (regional govern- ment), the regional parliament and other regio- nal administrative institutions. The city plays an important role in the timber industry. It is also extremely well connected to the outside, being centrally situated between the most important urban centres in Galicia. Two official languages exist side-by-side in Galicia: Spanish and Galician.

3 Getting there

B y air - The international airport of Santiago is situated in B y road Lavacolla, 11 km from - Take the A-9 motorway from Santiago via the main N-547 Santiago going north to road. ACoruña and Ferrol; going south, the motorway goes Airport Information: along the Rías Bajas passing ☎ 981 54 75 00 by Pontevedra and , SERVIBERIA reaching the Portuguese ☎ 902 400 500 border at Tui. www.iberia.com Passenger Terminal: - From Madrid to Santiago de ☎ 981 54 75 01 Compostela, take the main Freight Terminal: N-VI road to A Coruña and ☎ 981 59 99 44 from there the A-9 motorway.

y train Guardia Civil de Tráfico B (Road police) - Two trains daily from ☎ 981 58 22 66 Madrid (the Talgo and the Central Bus Station: Express Rías Altas) and one San Cayetano. from Bilbao. Fourteen daily ☎ 981 58 77 00 trains from A Coruña, eleven from Vigo and eight from Distances by road from Ourense. Connections to Santiago de Compostela to Portugal via Vigo. the main cities in Galicia: (three trains daily connect this city with Oporto), and A Coruña ...... 65 km connections to France via Ferrol ...... 102 km the A Coruña-Vigo-Barcelona Lugo ...... 105 km line. Ourense ...... 110 km Pontevedra ...... 56 km RENFE railway station: Vigo ...... 90 km Calle Hórreo RENFE information: ☎ 902 24 02 02 www.renfe.es

4 Where to stay

- The choice of accommodation in Santiago de Compostela includes two 5-star hotels (381 rooms), three 4-star hotels (627 rooms) and four 3-star hotels (617 rooms), apart from numerous other cheaper options. - One of the 5-star hotels, the Hostal de los Reyes Católicos, which is included in the list of «Paradores de Turismo» or State Hotels, occupies the beautiful 16th Century Royal Hospital building. Paradores de Turismo. Rersevation Centre ☎ 91 516 66 66. Fax 91 516 66 57 www.parador.es

Practical advice

- The climate of Santiago is typical of the spanish Atlantic coast: wet winters with frequent rain which, in light or heavy bursts, lasts from September to June. The summers are slightly less rainy than the rest of the Cantabrian coast. Temperatures remain mild throughout the whole year with a yearly average of 19° C. They drop down to about an average of about 8° C in January, the coldest month. Umbrellas and water-proof clothing are, therefore, essential elements of the visitor’s luggage.

- Banks are open to the public from 8.30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday to Friday. The 5-star, 4-star and 3-star hotels also have bureau de change facilities. Hotels, restaurants and most shops accept credit cards.

5 Itineraries in the City

Cathedral of Santiago The lay-out of Santiago de Compostela is that of the typical walled medieval city. Born of and for the cathedral, the city radiates out from this building, running along a north-south axis, the only pos- sible line along which it could develop because of the nature of the terrain. The main streets of the old quarter, the Rúa do Franco, the Rúa do Vilar and the Rúa Nova, are centered around this axis. The wall survived until the end of last century, and although it was later torn down, the city which it encircled remained. Narrow streets, alley-ways, squares and half-squares reveal stunning views such as the squares of La Quintana, La Inmaculada and San Martín. It is a city of stone, a city to be walked in and discovered. Santiago is still surrounded by orchards.

6 I. The Square of El Obradoiro

This impressive square opens the Antiguo Hospital out in an enormous, almost (Royal Hospital) (3) which moving sweep, comprising was built at the beginning of magnificent buildings which the 16th Century for the care represent a thousand years of of pilgrims and subsidised by history and architecture. the Catholic Monarchs The College of San Jerónimo Isabella and Ferdinand. The (1), which lies to the south, façade mixes was founded in 1501 and its Classical motifs in its façade comes from the old variegated ornamentation hospital for pilgrims in the with Gothic pinnacles and Square of La Inmaculada. On baldachins, whilst the saints the west side, opposite the are depicted in the niches front of the cathedral, lies the along with the symbols which Neoclassical building of Pazo have come to identify them in Raxoi (2) which was built in Christian tradition. The rest of

X R B C e ú i Casa del Dean o l s Praza da a m 1766. The relief-work of the p n

d i o Quintana g r r a e illa a Rúa do V pediment, finished in white z Praza das marble, depicts the Battle of ña Praterias a Rai F R. d o Clavijo and is crowned by a n s e c a co representation of Santiago ran Catedral o F a d Matamoros (Santiago Killer of 5 Rú Moors). The rooms inside are decorated with 19th and 20th 1 Century paintings. 4 Praza do i Nowadays, this palace is the axo C Obradoiro e R . d úa headquarters of the d R o

P C r «Consello» or Town Hall of is t rinidade o 2 T Santiago de Compostela and 3 the «Presidencia de la Xunta» s ta R Igrexa de e . rr d San Fructuoso a a or regional government. C s

H o N r ta The Square of El Obradoiro is s closed on the north side by

7 the main front contrasts with artists depicting the disciples this part of the façade and family of Santiago. because of its sober style, The Gelmírez Palace (4), broken only by the gargoyles which extends to the left of on the cornices, and by the the Obradoiro Façade, is the balconies which were added jewel in the crown of lay in 1678. The chapel is used Romanesque architecture in as an exhibition and concert Spain. It was constructed hall. The building is presently between the 12th and 13th a luxury hotel which forms Centuries on the initiative of part of the network of State the ambitious and Hotels or «Paradores de enterprising bishop of the Turismo», the Hostal de los time. The austerity of the Reyes Católicos. façade contrasts with the The Obradoiro Façade, the splendour of the interior with main cathedral front, without a pervading atmosphere any doubt dominates the reminiscent of the Middle square which derives its Ages. The refectory stands name from it. Built between out with its six series of 1738 and 1750 by the domes supported by corbels, architect Fernando de Casas representing a veritable y Novoa, it rises between documentary in stone of two twin towers which were daily life in the Middle Ages. originally Romanesque but To the right of the cathedral were later converted to a is the Renaissance-style Baroque style. The height of cloister building (5) which the façade gives it a grew up around the internal personality of its own, whilst cloisters. at the same time joining the towers to the whole, dominated by an image of Santiago over an urn. Large windows illuminate the interior of the building and on the sides, almost lost amongst the exuberant features of the façade, we can see various sculptures by different Galician Baroque Pazo Raxoi

8 II. The Cathedral

The Cathedral (6) has been the stone increases intelligence, the key to the city’s identity which is supposed to be a self- for centuries. The city grew portrait of the master-craftsman up around it. Although the Mateo. On the left arch exterior has undergone appear various characters from successive renovation works, the Old Testament, and on the the interior has basically been jambs, the four prophets. The preserved intact. It is, in fact, right-hand arch symbolizes the the most valuable legacy of Final Judgment in which the the Romanesque style. sinners are devoured by fantastic monsters. Via the Obradoiro Façade we enter the Pórtico de la Gloria Through the Portico de la (Gateway to Glory) which was Gloria we gain access to the constructed by the master- inside of the cathedral, the craftsman Mateo in 1188. The jewel in the crown of

R

ú Pórtico is made up of three a Rúa Nova R

ú arches. Presiding over the Monasterio a d

d de San Pelayo e a

central arch, the most majestic, C

o

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g e is a figure of Christ surrounded a lm Casa del Dean Praza da ire by the four evangelists. Eight Quintana z Villar Casa de la Parra Rúa do angels carry the symbols of the Praza das Praterias aiña Passion. The archivolts support F da R o Rúa n s e the 24 old men of the c a co Apocalypse. The tree of David Praza da ran 6 o F Inmaculada a d is represented on the mullion Rú Colexio de and above it is a statue of St. San Jerónimo James (Santiago); on the other Pazo de Xelmirez Praza do side, we see the popular C . Obradoiro d o Pazo de R. «Santo dos Croques» (Saint of C de Raxoi xoi P r Ra is t (Ayto.) the bumps), so-called because Hotel o

Reyes Catolicos N of the popular belief that (antiguo Hospital Real) bumping one’s head against

9 Romanesque architecture, restored in the 16th Century embellished over the and again in the 17th centuries. It was begun in Century. Then we see the 1075, based on a Latin cross Chapel of Nuestra Señora la lay-out of three naves. The Blanca which was built over left-hand nave contains the the old gates to the cathedral Chapel of Cristo de Burgos, and dates from the 13th based on a Greek cross lay- Century. The Chapel of El out, and upon reaching the Salvador is the most set back transept we see the Chapel of from the ambulatory; the La Comunión, built according construction of the cathedral to an unusual circular design. began around this chapel Turning left at the transept we which has an interesting find the Chapel of Santa Plateresque altar-piece. Catalina which served as a Between this chapel and the royal pantheon until the 16th Chapel of La Azucena is the Century. On the other side of entrance to the Puerta Santa the Azabachería Gate, the (Saint’s Gate) which is where first chapel we see is the the pilgrims were issued the Chapel of San Antonio which slips which allowed them to dates from 1102. A small lodge free of charge at the stairway leads to La Corticela, Hospital Real (Royal a church which was founded Hospital). Continuing on, we in the 12th Century and later see the 16th Century Chapel annexed to the cathedral. It of Mondragón which was preserves its 13th Century built in Late Gothic style. The façade as well as a «small beautiful Chapel of El Pilar, temple» intimacy which constructed at the end of the contrasts with the solemnity of 17th Century, is the last the cathedral. chapel on the ambulatory, used as a vestry. Bishop Monroy later made it his Near La Corticela transept is pantheon. the 17th Century Chapel of San Andrés. The ambulatory runs round the Mayor Chapel The transept nave is and from there a series of undoubtedly the most solemn chapels open out. The Chapel spot in the cathedral. The of San Juan Apóstol, of lantern is Gothic with Romanesque origin, was Baroque detail. From this

10 point hangs the Botafumeiro, monarchs from the 12th, 13th the enormous censer which and 14th Century. swings spectacularly from one of the nave to the other One of the doors along the during days of solemn right-hand branch of the celebration. The Baroque transept leads to the cloisters. altar of the Main Chapel rises They were initially constructed above the crypt which in the 16th Century in a contains the remains of St. Gothic style which is reflected James the Apostle. The statue in the columns and the of the Apostle dates from pinnacles of the buttresses, 1211, and the vestments and although the Plateresque jewels which adorn it date decorations later came to from the 17th Century. In the dominate the cloisters. The right-hand nave, a hall area Treasury and cloister routes provides access to the are two paths which can be remaining two chapels. The taken around the cathedral; Chapel of San Fernando, on the third leads to the crypt the left, is the cathedral and Old Cathedral which can Treasury which has proudly be reached via the Obradoiro guarded the 16th Century steps. These were built by the gold and silver which is master-craftsman Mateo to deposited there. The Chapel compensate for the difference of Las Reliquias (Chapel of in level of the terrain and to the Relics), with its pointed support the Pórtico de la dome, houses the tombs of Gloria.

Square of El Obradoiro. Cathedral façade III. The Squares of Platerías, La Quintana and La Azabachería

The strongly characteristic organized around the central squares which surround the figure of Christ. The right-hand cathedral to the south, west tympanum portrays the and north play an important flagellation of the Messiah and role in the medieval design of the left-hand tympanum Santiago de Compostela. Church of San Paio From the foot of the Puerta de Platerías (Platerías Gate) belonging to the cathedral, the square of Platerías opens out, so-called because it was traditionally here that the silversmiths («plateros») guild was located. The Casa del Cabildo (Town Hall) (7), opposite the cathedral, has a

strictly Compostela-style San Bento Ant. Casa Consistorial

B

Praza de R façade dating from the ispo Cervantes ú va a Rúa No

18th Century. It inspired d a

A 10 C X z e Valle-Inclán’s story Mi a o l n b m a g i c a r hermana Antonia (My sister h e Casa del Dean e Praza da z r i a Quintana 9 illar Antonia) in the same way that 8 7 Rúa do V Casa de the Fountain of Los Caballos F iña la Troya o a Ra n R. d s e inspired Lorca to write the c Praza do a poem Danza da Lúa en Inmaculada Catedral Santiago (Dance of the Moon Monasterio Colexio de San Martín San Jerónimo Pinario in Santiago). The Platerías Pazo de Xelmirez Façade is the only one of Praza do C Obradoiro .

Romanesque style which the d o

P C Pazo r cathedral has preserved. It dates is t de Raxoi Hotel o Reyes Catolicos (Ayto.) from 1103 although some of the (antiguo Hospital Real) Iglexa de elements which make up the San Fructuoso doorway have been taken from N other buildings. The façade is

12 represents temptation. The Parra (8), built at the end of jambs, the corners of the the 17th Century, displays its arches and both sides of the unusual decoration consisting façade contain a multitude of of clusters of fruit. The Casa da small figures in a magnificent Conga (9) (from «canónigo» or display the imaginative and canon) occupies virtually the story-telling qualities of the whole southern side of the Romanesque style. Finally, the square of La Quintana. This Treasury Façade, built in full big beautiful building was Renaissance style in 1540, is finished at the beginning of located on the outside of the the 18th Century. cloisters. The austere Convent of San Between the back of the Paio closes off the eastern cathedral and the monastery approach to the square in a of San Paio de Antealtares the circular lay-out. Wooden grilles Square of La Quintana opens cover the windows of this out. This square, filled with the sober façade. The Church of magical atmosphere of a San Paio (10), which belongs multitude of legends, was to the monastery, looks onto previously a cemetery. Here the «Via Sacra» or Holy Way. stands the Clock Tower, also Founded in 1707, the church called the Tower of the Trinity, contains some interesting which was finished at the end altarpieces and a Roman altar- of the 14th Century. stone, used as such by the first Converted in the 18th Century disciples of the Apostle. into a Baroque filigree, the tower is famous for its bell, Formerly, the jet-stone known as La Berenguela. At its workers’ guild gathered base, the sumptuous Puerta around the north entrance to Real (Royal Gate) once again the cathedral. The Puerta de conceals the Romanesque la Azabachería (Azabachería nature of the cathedral. The Gate) stands here, occupying Puerta Santa (Holy Gate) is the place of the old decorated with Romanesque Romanesque Gate of sculptures which were taken Paradise. Born of Baroque from the old choir, the work of style, it was transformed into the master-craftsman Mateo. At a Neoclassical construction, the top of the square which is producing an uneven result called «La Quintana de and the least attractive view Vivos», the Casa de la of the cathedral.

13 IV. The monasteries

Some superb buildings reveal we arrive in the small square the importance of the of Casa Reais, a name which religious orders to the history refers to the large number of of Santiago. Along with the palaces which were built Convents of San Paio and there, of which two survive San Francisco and the today: Fondevila (14) and the impressive Monastery of San Pazo Viejo del Conde de Martiño, this itinerary includes Aranda (Old Palace of the other more modest buildings Count of Aranda) (15). which are, nevertheless, very The square is closed off at rich in artistic terms. one end by the Neoclassical The main façade of the Church of Las Ánimas (16). Monastery of San Paio de The pediment, unusual in Antealtares (11) looks onto the Catholic iconography, depicts Square of Feixoó. Dating back the torments of hell and souls to the 18th Century, the relief- in agony. Inside the church, work on the doorway depicts the group of sculptures the escape to Egypt. The depicting The Passion.

Igrexa present building, dating from Convento de San Fiz the 17th and 18th Centuries, San Agustín Santa María tín was built on the site of a 12th del Camiño Rúa de San Agus amira Rúa Travesa Rúa de Alt Century convent. The 14 monastery shares the Square of Praza de 15 S Agostiño torio Ánimas 13 gun Feixoó with the Casa del Ant. Casa Pre Consistorial B 16 12 is io p Canónigo Juan Somoza (House a o aixo n P Algalla de Ab Praza de Sa R Cervantes de of Canon Juan Somoza) (12). R. ú a X

d e

a l 11 m At the top of the square C i A r o e

z n z a stands the Church of San g n b a le a Praza da sa 18 u c h Quintana Bento (13) which was built on 17 er X Casa de e Casa de la Parra r i the site of a 10th Century la Tr oya a ia ro temple and was modified in Porta T da Pena the times of Bishop Gelmírez. Praza do Moeda Vella Inmaculada Catedral Its Gothic altar and the group 19 of Romanesque sculptures 20 Pazo del Arzobispo depicting the Adoration of the Xelmirez Praza do o Magi have been preserved. sc C Obradoiro i . nc ios ra d e D F o From the corner of San Bento al d P do V an C R. S r is Pazo and via the street of Traversa de Hotel t o Rúa Reyes Catolicos de Raxoi S (antiguo Hospital Real) (Ayto.) a n 22 F

14 ra N n s ci ta Igrexa de sc rre 21 o Ca San Fructuoso The Algalias de Arriba choir-stalls constitute a 17th (higher) and Algalias de Century masterpiece. Abajo (lower) were the streets Via the streets of Abril Ares of the «chocolaterías» (cafes and Moeda Vella we reach serving drinking chocolate); the Square of La Inmaculada, by crossing them we reach the the extension of the Square of Museo de las Perigrinaciones La Azabachería. Opposite the (Pilgrimage Museum) (17) cathedral stands the main which is situated virtually at façade of the Monastery of the entrance to the Square of San Martín Pinario (20), an San Miguel, presided over by immense building which was the Church of San Miguel dos constructed between the 17th Agros (18). This church, and 18th Centuries on the site which dates back to the 9th of a 10th Century monastery. Century, was destroyed by A large ornamental comb the Moors at the end of the crowns the sumptuous façade. 10th Century. Gelmírez The twenty thousand square ordered it to be rebuilt in the feet of this building are 12th Century, although the connected by three long current appearance of the cloisters. building owes more to the renovations carried out in the The street of Val de Dios runs 15th, 18th and 19th along the façade, or rather, Centuries. the western wall of San Martiño, leading to the The Square of San Miguel Monastery of San Francisco joins with the Square of San (21). Founded at the Martín, forming a single area beginning of the 16th Century overlooked by the façade of and rebuilt during the 17th the Church of San Martín (19). and 18th Centuries, this This impressive church, built in monastery owes its beginning 1597, belongs to the to the pilgrimage undertaken Monastery of San Martín by San Francisco himself to Pinario. The façade is Compostela. The temple, the Renaissance although the work of Simón Rodríguez, is columns reveal Plateresque one of the most beautiful elements. The bell tower and examples of Compostela the curved steps joined to the Baroque. The street of San façade are two of the images Francisco leads directly into which have come to symbolize the Square of El Obradoiro. the city of Santiago. The This is where the Faculty of church contains a magnificent Medicine (22) building is Baroque altarpiece and the located.

15 V. The «Rúas» (The «Streets»)

Although the buildings came the border between the later, the lay-out for the Rúas suburbs and old quarter of Franco, Vilar and Nova date the city. By walking up the back to the time of Bishop busy Rúa do Franco we reach Gelmírez in the 12th Century. the Colegio Mayor de Fonseca The streets were originally (23), a beautiful Renaissance completely flanked by building begun in 1532. The colonnades but, as a result of doorway of the façade, split their vulnerability to fires, they into two parts, and the were partially destroyed. Plateresque cloister with its Santiago displays the full force crenellations and curious of its charm in these streets. gargoyles, are the most interesting elements of the The Faxeira Gate was one of building. Turning right at the the seven gates in the wall end of the Rúa do Franco we which encircled Santiago; reach the Square of Platerías today this crossroads draws whose southern end marks the

Rúa da Caldereria Colexio 28 das Orfas i Rú P 27 a R s Praza 26 d rfa ú 29 as O de Galicia a 31 Nova R

R a Rú . d ú E a e R n ú d t 30 r a a 32 e d X m C e u o l m r n a a g lla í Praza S r a e i s z 25 do Toral B e 24 a n Villar u ra do t úa iz R a d o Praza das s Platerías aiña F da R Fr o úa do anco n R s úa e R c s a a rc Campo ce da Estrada tre n a 23 E ero T igu r F a e v d . a id F n ve o A n s e c a Avda. Rodrigo de Padrón Colexio de San Clemente

P N Raxoi

16 beginning of the colonnaded doorway, dating from the 14th Rúa do Vilar. Century and the bell tower are worthy of note. This church is The first building on the left is located on the corner with the the Casa del Deán (The street Tras de Salomé which Dean’s Residence) (24), a splits into the streets of Orfas magnificent example of a and Calderería. The street of Compostela Baroque palace. Calderería is the shopping This area has lost its street par excellence of the old residential character, quarter. becoming rather an administrative centre. Near The 16th Century building the end of the street, the Rúa situated between the two do Vilar is interrupted by the thoroughfares is the Palace of Square of El Toral. One of the Fonseca (28), one of the few liveliest spots in the city, the examples of lay Renaissance square is dominated by the architecture left in the city. Palace of Bendaña (25), which was built at the end of Returning to the Rúa Nova, the 17th Century. Gaps and we come to the Teatro balconies stand out from the Principal (Main Theatre) (29) stone façade; at the top we hidden under the colonnades. can see Atlas holding the This Elizabethan building world which, according to a dating from 1841, recently popular joke, he will let drop restored, is the centre of under certain circumstances. cultural life in Santiago. The Neoclassical building located The narrow street of Entrerrúas near the end of the street is which connects the Rúa del the Palace of Mondragón Vilar and Rúa Nova is also (30), also called the Palace of protected by colonnades. By Santa Cruz. Opposite, the walking up this street we reach Casa de las Pomas, (House of the Colegio de los Irlandeses the Apples) (31) Valle-Inclán’s (26). The Church of Santa favourite building, derives its María de Salomé (27) dates name from the clusters of fruit from the 12th Century. It was and garland adornments on renovated in the 18th Century its façade. The Casa de la although its 15th Century Balconada (32) stands on the chapels have been preserved. corner of the Rúa de The Annunciation on the Gelmírez.

17 VI. From Santa Clara to the University skirting the old quarter

Departing from the Convents of Santa Clara and Santo Domingo, this itinerary takes us deeper into the more popular areas of Compostela, where daily life runs its normal course- markets, the Geography and History Faculties and old taverns. We will see people going about their daily business in the midst of a city full of magnificent monuments.

The Convent of Santa Clara Convent of Santo Domingo de Bonaval (33) is a cube-shaped stone

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18 building. The pointed pulpit find the Convent of Santo came from the old convent of Domingo Bonaval (35). It the same name which was houses the Museo do Pobo located on a different site. Galego (Museum of the The most unique aspect of the Galician People) and the convent is the façade of the Panteón de Gallegos Ilustres porter’s lodge which was built (Pantheon of Famous by Simón Rodríguez in 1719. Galicians), which contains, It gives off a feeling of among others, Rosalía de instability enhanced by the Castro and Alfonso Rodríguez cylinder which crowns the Castelao, the two leading façade, whilst the paneled figures of Galician literature. areas give a whimsical cubist The beautiful church touch to the whole, making belonging to the convent is a the structure the most original rare example of Gothic example of Compostela architecture in Galicia. Next Baroque. to the convent another impressive building has been At the other end of the Rúa recently erected, this time de San Roque stands the finished in cement rather than Hospital of San Roque (34) in stone, the Centro Galego which was founded in the de Arte Contemporáneo 16th Century during when (Galician Contemporary Art epidemics plagued the city. Centre) (36) which was On the tympanum of the designed by the Portuguese door, we see depictions of architect Alvaro Siza, San Cosme and San Damián, constituting the first modern the patron saints of health. influence in the old quarter. The Rúa das Rodas or the curious and narrow street of In the Rúa del Santo Agostiño Entremuros lead to the Porta stands the Convent of the do Camiño where the door of Jesuites (37), founded in the wall stood and the French 1617, with its interesting Pilgrim’s Way began. Mannerist cloister. This building now serves as a At the top of a small hill (the student residence. The Church Street of Santo Domingo), we of San Agustín (38), attached

19 to the convent, is of Churriguaresque style. One of its towers was destroyed by lightening and the other was never finished. In the middle of the hustle and bustle of the Square of Abastos stand the Portal of San Fiz de Solovio Romanesque-inspired stone halls which today house the marketplace. Constructed of the century a new floor after 1941, they respect their was added– have practically context and surroundings. eradicated its original design. The library is worth visiting. On the far side of the market Inside the Church of La is San Fiz de Solovio (39), the Universidad, the most first temple built in the city. exuberant and scandalous Legend tells us that the hermit altar-piece in Compostela, Paio, who discovered the work of Simón Rodríguez in sepulchre of St. James, resided 1720, climbs the wall and here. The Romanesque façade metamorphoses into a ceiling. featuring the Epiphany on the tympanum is all that is left of The Arco de Mazarelos the church founded by Bishop (Mazarelos Arch) (41) is the Sisnando in 900 A.D. The only vestige remaining of the present façade is the result of walls which encircled the city drastic renovation works for a thousand years. The carried out in the 18th building situated to the left is Century. A small garden with the Casa de Valderrama (42). a crossway separates San Fiz From the other side of the from the Geography and arch we can see the Convent History Faculty (40). This of Las Mercedarias Descalzas Neoclassical building dating (43), which dates from the from the end of the 18th end of the 18th Century, and Century was designed to be the church belonging to the the headquarters of the convent whose Baroque University. The continual façade and dome are worthy renovation works –at the turn of note.

20 VII. Other places of interest

Other places of great interest to the visitor are situated somewhat further away from the old quarter of Santiago.

. Belvís Convent (44). Belvís, which lies to the west of the old quarter of the city, is one of the most typical neighbourhoods in Santiago. From the Church of San Fiz, the street of Las Trompas Collegiate Church of Santa Maria del Sar leads to the gates of the convent which was built at the

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S d lla ta o a 45 d Lugo B te N n o P do Rí aS o ú ar R end of the 17th Century. the land on which the Preserved from the old 14th structure is built, making Century building, the picture necessary the addition of of the Virgen del Portal is an external buttresses in the 18th object of great devotion in the Century. The Romanesque city. The church stands out cloister was built by the same from the whole and contains architect responsible for the an interesting altar-piece. Pórtico de la Gloria, the During the local procession to master-craftsman Mateo. A San Pedro Mártir it is small museum is located in customary to call at the the cloister and vestry. convent to ask for animals and people to be cured. . The Convent of Santa María de Conxo (46). . The Collegiate Church of Somewhat further away, on Santa María del Sar (45). the outskirts of the city, lies At the corner of the the Convent of Santa María Mercedarias Descalzas de Conxo. Founded in 1129 begins the street of Patio de by Bishop Gelmírez, it was Madres which later turns into rebuilt in the 17th Century. the street of Castrón d’Ouro. Only a part of the original The street of Sar leads into cloister remains. In the the Avenida de Lugo. It is a church, the sculpture of kilometre’s walk to the Santiago Peregrino (Santiago Collegiate Church of Santa the Pilgrim) stands out. To the María del Sar, built in the left of the transept one can 12th Century. It was a enter the chapel of Cristo de Templar convent, leper Conxo; the effect of the ever- colony, and collegiate church rising panels and the but is famous for its one imperceptible casting of the defect, the leaning of its pilasters and dome create a columns, which produces a mobility which make the fascinating optical effect. This chapel a real masterwork of is due to the unevenness of Baroque style.

22 Museums and art centres

MUSEO Y TESORO DE LA CATEDRAL (Cathedral The opening hours are for Treasure and Museum) guideline purposes only. It is advisable to check at the It was founded as an Tourist Offices or at the Archaeological Museum after monuments or museums. the discovery in the basement of the cathedral of the remains Museo y Tesoro of tombs, relief-works and de la Catedral statues from the 11th and 16th Santiago Cathedral Centuries. The library Open: every day from conserves manuscripts and 10 a.m. to 1.30 p.m. incunabula as well as the and from 4 p.m. to enormous censer which is 7.30 p.m.; winter, from known as the «Botafumeiro». 10 a.m. to 1.30 p.m. and The visit includes the cloisters from 4 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. of the cathedral, the ☎ 981 56 05 27 chapterhouse, the crypt, the chapel of Relics and the Museo do Pobo Galego marvelous collection of Flemish Convento de Santo tapestries, dating from the 16th Domingo de Bonaval and 17th Centuries, French Open: Monday-Saturday, tapestries from the 17th from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Century and Spanish tapestries and from 4 p.m. to from the 18th Century. Worth 7 p.m.; Sundays and special notice are those Public Holidays closed elaborated from designs by ☎ 981 58 36 20 Rubens, Van Thulden, Teniers, Bayeu and Goya.

MUSEO DO POBO GALEGO (Museum of the Galician People) The convent which houses this museum was built between the 14th and 17th Centuries. The museum brings together materials related to Galician anthropology and ethnography, with other rooms dedicated to typical architecture and traditional

23 trades, using displays of models, drawings and photographs. A surprisingly pleasant visit. The Pantheon of Famous Galicians is located in the convent church.

CENTRO GALEGO DE ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO (Galician Contemporary Art Museum) Housed in a modern building designed by the Portuguese architect Alvaro Siza, this museum opened in 1993. The museum includes rooms for temporary exhibitions, Centro Galego de Arte conferences and video- Contemporéneo viewing, with preference given Rúa Ramón del Valle- to the exhibition of Inclán contemporary art. Open: Tuesday-Saturday from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. MUSEO DE LAS and from 4 p.m. to PEREGRINACIONES 8 p.m.; Sundays from (Pilgrimage Museum) 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.; This museum is housed in a Mondays closed Gothic tower and modern ☎ 981 54 66 19 building. It contains a major collection of sculptures, Museo de las paintings, gold and silver work Peregrinaciones and local handicrafts, all Rúa San Miguel, 4 based on subjects related to Open: Tuesday to Friday: the pilgrimages to Santiago de 10 a.m.- 8 p.m. Saturdays: Compostela. It also boasts a 10:30 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. magnificent collection of jet and 5:00 p.m. - 8 p.m. trinkets. Sundays and Public Holidays: MUSEO DE ARTE SACRO 10:30 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. (Museum of Religious Art) Mondays: closed The monastery which was ☎ 981 58 15 58 built in the 17th and 18th

24 Centuries was raised on the site of another founded in the 9th Century. The museum is Museo de Arte Sacro entered through the convent church which has a Monasterio de San Paio de magnificent altarpiece dating Antealtares from the beginning of the 18th Open: July, August and Century. The museum September from collection is made up of 10.30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and various pieces of gold and from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m.; silver work, sculpture, Saturdays from 4 p.m. to paintings and donations from 7.30 p.m.; closed during noblemen and religious the rest of the year benefactors. ☎ 981 58 31 27

MUSEO DE LA COLEGIATA DE SANTA MARÍA DEL SAR Museo de la Colegiata de (Museum of the Collegiate Santa María del Sar Church of Santa María del Colegiata de Santa María Sar) del Sar. Barrio del Sar The church which houses the Open: from 10 a.m. to museum is of 12th Century 1 p.m. and from 4.30 p.m. Romanesque style, comprising to 7 p.m. three naves constructed on ☎ 981 56 28 91 pillars, and is supported by several large buttresses which were added in the 18th Century. Its leaning columns are an impressive sight. The small museum brings together documents of great historical value, such as a parchment dating from 1136 A.D. sealed by Archbishop Diego Gelmírez and pieces from the old cloister which are attributed to the master-craftsman Mateo and his school. It also contains other liturgical articles which were made in local workshops in the 18th Century.

25 Various public and private art exhibition centres periodically hold temporary exhibitions of paintings, sculpture, photography, etc. Those most worthy of note include:

Auditorio de Galicia Central-Hispano 20 Avenida Burgo das Nacións Calle Alférez Provisional, 3 Open: from 12 a.m. and 5. Open: 15th June - to 7 p.m. 15th September from ☎ 981 55 22 90 9.30 a.m. to 1.30 p.m.; rest www.audigal.es of the year from 9.30 a.m. to 1.30 p.m and from 5.00 p.m. to 7.00 p.m. ☎ 981 59 01 50 Museo do Poblo Galego Convento de Santo Domingo Hostal de los Reyes Católicos de Bonaval. Open: from Square of El Obradoiro 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and from Open: from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. 1 p.m. and from 4 p.m. Sundays closed to 7 p.m. Guided visits ☎ 981 58 36 20 ☎ 981 58 22 00

Sala Francisco Asorey Galería Sargadelos Facultad de Filosofía, Rúa Nova, 16. Open: from Ciencias de la Educación y 10.30 a.m. to 1.30 p.m. and Psicología. Campus Sur from 4.30 p.m. to 8.30 p.m. Open: from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. ☎ 981 58 19 05 ☎. 981 56 31 00

26 Casa de la Parra

Aula de la Cultura de Caixa Sala Fundación Galicia Araguaney Calle Carreira do Conde, 18 Hotel Araguaney Open: times depend on the Calle Montero Ríos, 25 exhibition Open: times depend on the ☎ 981 58 08 91 exhibition ☎ 981 55 96 00

Casa da Parra Square of La Quintana Open: Galería Trinta from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. Rúa do Hórreo, 30 Mondays closed Open: from 12.30 a.m. to ☎ 981 54 58 09 2.30 p.m. and from 5.30 p.m. to 9.00 p.m. Weekends arranged by Casa da Conga appointment Colegio Oficial de ☎ 981 58 46 23 Arquitectos de Galicia Square of La Quintana Open: from 5.00 p.m. Galería Citania to 7.00 p.m. ☎ 981 58 01 00 Abadia de Abaixo, 93.

27 Parks and Gardens

- The Alameda, Ferradura and Carballeira de Santa Susana Promenades surrounding the convent of Bonaval. Laid out by the Located between the old Portuguese architect Alvaro quarter of the city and the Siza and landscape-designer university campus, the Isabel Aguirre according to promenades of Carballeira a turn-of-the-century plan, de Santa Susana, Alameda the site includes of 30,000 and Ferradura combine square metres of gardens, traditional oak forests and vantage-points, groves and romantic gardens with areas dedicated to cultural exotic species of flora. In and leisure activities. The the Carballeira (oakwood), Puerta de la Música, a steel on the top of an ancient sculpture by Eduardo Celtic hill-fort, stands the Chillida, is the emblem of Church of Santa Susana, the park. the co-patron saint of Santiago. The Alameda - Parque de la Música walk dates from the beginning of last century. It Laid out along the base of is laid out around three the Auditorio de Galicia promenades separated by building, its pleasant beautiful iron-work meadows border an benches and camellia beds. artificial lake inhabited by A flight of steps leads up to swans and trouts. the Ferradura and the Letras Gallegas walk, a - Parque de Belvís spectacular vantage point Located on the stream-bed overlooking the university which crosses the street of and one of the most Las Trompas, this park pleasant views of the city. makes part of the ambitious project which began with - Parque de Santo the Bonaval gardens and Domingo de Bonaval was later expanded to This park is located in the include the parks of former orchard, Romantic Almáciga, Vite, Paxonal cemetery and other grounds and Campus.

28 Cultural Activities and Entertainment M usic - The Auditorio de Galicia (Galician Auditorium), seat of the Galician Symphony orchestra, offers a wide-ranging programme of music and classical dance throughout the year. The opera season usually lasts from May to June, although some years it is brought forward to April. - Xornadas de Música en Compostela (Music days in Compostela), are dedicated to contemporary music. They take place during the first three weeks of August. Concerts are held in the Capilla Real del Hostal de los Reyes Católicos (Hostal de los Reyes Católicos Royal Chapel) and at the Galician Auditorium. Auditorio de Galicia. Palacio de la Ópera, Exposiciones y Congresos. Avenida do Burgo das Nacions. ☎ 981 55 22 90. Hostal de los Reyes Católicos. Square of El Obradoiro. ☎ 981 58 22 00.

T heatre - There is a large variety of theatrical entertainment at the Teatro Principal throughout the year. Every year between 22nd December and 5th January a special programme is organized for children which includes the Children’s Puppet Festival (Festival Infantíl de Títeres). Teatro Principal. Rúa Nova, 21. ☎ 981 58 65 55. - During the second fortnight in July, coinciding with the celebrations in honour of St. James the Apostle, the programme of musical and theatrical events becomes especially intense, taking over public areas such as the Squares of El Obradoiro and La Quintana. The Jornadas de Folklore Gallego (Galician Folklore Days) and Festival de Bandas Populares (Popular Music Bands Festival) also take place around this time. Cultural activity heats up again during the month of May for the week-long fiestas which commemorate Ascension Day.

29 C inema - There are 13 cinemas in Santiago. From the 1st to 30th November the Teatro Principal hosts the cinema festival, Cineuropa. Art Galleries and Antique-shops

- Most of the antique-dealers are concentrated around the cathedral and the Square of San Martiño.

- The Galician Antique-Dealers’ Fair (Feria de Anticuarios de Galicia), the region’s most important event of its kind, is held during the first fortnight of October. Anticuarios de Galicia. Hotel Araguaney. Calle Montero Ríos, 25. ☎ 981 55 96 00.

- Art galleries can also be found in the old quarter of the city. Most of the bars and cafés in the old quarter hold exhibitions of contemporary Galician artists. Programmes are printed in the local newspapers.

For Golf enthusiasts

- Campo de Golf del Aeroclub Lavacolla. Number of holes: 9. Par: 72. Carretera N-57, Santiago-Lugo road, 11 km. away, near the airport. ☎ 981 59 24 00.

30 Eating and Drinking

Galician cuisine has a well- deserved reputation for quality, and, scattered throughout the old quarter and suburbs of Santiago lie seafish, fresh-water fish and some of the best restaurants the excellent mollusks and in Galicia. However, in crustaceans of the Galician Galicia, as in the rest of coast. It would be a crime to Spain, before sitting down at forget to mention «pulpo» or the table, it is still customary octopus which forms part of to have an aperitif. every fiesta in the region. The Unquestionably the best area cheeses are fresh and for this practice is the old creamy. quarter, along the streets of Franco and Raíño. In the For dessert, specialties suburbs, the best streets are include «filloas» (a type of those surrounding the Square crepes) and «tarta de of Roxa. Most of the wine- almendras de Santiago» bars are also restaurants. (Santiago almond torte) or any of the sweet-cakes which Fish is grilled, prepared in the for centuries have been caldeirada or Galician-style - specially produced in the cooked and garnished with convents by the nuns. oil, garlic, and paprika the «empanada» (pie), featured Wine is made throughout in refectory depictions, as Galicia. Usually they are early as the 12th Century, is white wines, young and fruity. produced in endless varieties. The most outstanding whites The most typical dishes for the include Ribeiro, winter months include «lacón and Albariño. Amandi is an con grelos» (shoulder of pork excellent red wine. Also with parsnip tops) and popular are the homemade «cocido gallego» (Galician liqueurs and hot-pot). (brandy), which form the basic ingredients of But it is the fish and shellfish queimada (a bowl of strong for which is spirits which is lit or most famous. The markets queimada, literally «burnt», offer hundreds of varieties of and then slowly drunk).

31 Shopping

There are numerous places all around the city which sell fine food-products. There are The squares of Azabacheria some excellent cake-shops in and Platerias owe their names the streets of Alfredo Brañas, to the two most traditional Vilar and Doctor Teijeiro. crafts of Santiago. Workshops making amulets and trinkets out of azabache or jet-stone, a The widest range of shops is variety of lignite, date back to found in the suburbs where the 12th Century. The pieces the shops are more modern. crafted from plata, or silver, Most of the arcades along the are also very different from street of Tras del Pilar feature those produced in Renaissance the new fashions by the and Baroque times. Since the successful Galicán clothes turn of this century jet and designers. The new shopping silver have been successfully areas of the city are located combined, resulting in great in the neighbourhood of variety and originality of Castiñeiriño and the Polígono designs. These beautifully de Fontiñas. crafted pieces can be found in any of the shops around the The cattle-market is cathedral. attended by people from all over the region and is held It is also possible to buy every Wednesday in regional ceramic-ware in the Salgueiriños, San Cayetano. old quarter. The factory of Dealing takes place in this Sargadelos, situated in the market, the most important in of Cervo, is Galicia, from 5.30 a.m. to particularly renowned for its midday. Behind the market, characteristic ceramic-ware. the «pulpeiras» (octopus- Camariñas, another town in sellers) set up their stands La Coruña region produces serving octopus a feira and the famous «encajes de Ribeiro wine as well as bolillos» (bobbin-lace), which strong aguadiente liqueur. can be bought everywhere in On Thursdays a street market Santiago. visits the same place.

32 Night-Life

Nothing is more pleasant than slowly wandering around the old quarter of Santiago, perhaps stopping Things really start to get off for a drink along the way. going at around midnight. Nearly all of these bars, cafés Santiago night-life is or taverns display works by renowned throughout Galicia, modern Galician artists. especially Thursday evenings during term-time, as a result - The bars in the suburbs of the special atmosphere the tend to be more impersonal university students bring to the and noisy. Although they are city. The old quarter and scattered all around the city, suburbs offer two very the majority are different milieus. concentrated in the streets República Argentina, - Most of the bars and cafés Santiago de Chile, Ramón in the old quarter were Cabanillas, Fernando III el established quite recently as Santo and San Pedro de part of an attempt to make Mezonzo. During term-time, the old part of the city more it is an impressive sight to lively in the evenings. Each see the waves of young establishment has a distinct people who flood into the character and has been area on Thursday and decorated with care, some Friday evenings, and it is having previously served as not surprising as most of the palace stables or coach inhabitants of this part of the houses. The music city are students at the –psychedelic rock, jazz, folk– university. Closing times are is played at volumes which later here than in the old allow conversation. quarter.

Along the streets of Algalias, - Nearly all of the Virxe da Cerca and San Paio discotheques are located de Antealteares are a large along the roads leading out number of bars and taverns. of the city.

33 Fiestas of general interest

- The most important fiestas in primarily, to the students who Santiago are undoubtedly take part. Concerts, open-air those which take place dances, and informal theatre around the 25th July, Día de productions take place along la Patria Galega (Galicia Day) with the cattle fair and, of and Día del Apóstol Santiago course, mass at the cathedral, (Day of St. James the featuring the Botafumeiro. Apostle). During the last fortnight of July, popular and - At the end of February or religious celebrations and the beginning of March the politics are mixed together. Antroido, or carnival, takes The City Council organizes place throughout the whole of an extensive cultural and Galicia. These deeply rooted entertainment programme traditions in Santiago attract which includes exhibitions, the participation of entire theatrical displays, street- neighbourhoods. shows and concerts featuring music of all kinds. - La Semana Santa, or Holy In the Squares of El Obradoiro Week, in March or April, and La Quintana stages are features some especially erected to host the majority of interesting processions such the events scheduled during as the Do Encontro Procession fiesta time. In the evening of (procession to the meeting- 24th July, the eve of the great place) on Good Friday and day, there is an impressive the Os Caladiños Procession fireworks display in the Square (the silent ones). of El Obradoiro. The most solemn religious ceremony is - Multitudinous gatherings of the «Ofrenda del Rey al religious fervour are reserved Apóstol» (offering of the King for the romerías (processions to the Apostle), on the 25th to a local shrine) which are and during which the famous often accompanied by open- Botafumeiro is employed. air dances and celebrations. The most popular ones in - The other important local Santiago are those of San fiesta is La Ascensión which is Lázaro on 17th and 18th held in May or June (there is March, and those of San no fixed date) and lasts for a Marcos and San Pedro Mártir week. These festivities are on the 24th and 29th April, extraordinarily lively thanks, respectively.

34 Trade Fairs

The main regional fairs take place at A Coruña, - Salón de la Energía y Pontevedra and other places Desarrollo. Energy and near Santiago de Development Fair. Silleda- Compostela. Pontevedra. October. - Artestrada. Galician craft - Semana Verde de Galica. fair. La Estrada-Pontevedra. Galicia Environmental Week. May. Silleda-Pontevedra. May-June. - Construgal. Construction, - Turisport. Tourism, sports stone and other related and rural development fair. industries trade fair. Silleda-Pontevedra. March. Pontevedra. May. - Ferpalia. Tourism fair. Information: Confederación Pontevedra. October. de Empresarios de Galicia. - Feria del Mueble de Galicia. Rúa del Vilar, 54. Galicia furniture fair. La Santiago de Compostela. Estrada-Pontevedra. ☎ 981 55 58 88. September. - Mostrart. Popular arts and crafts, art workshops, new handicrafts. ACoruña. First fortnight in August. - Ofeitoaman. Popular arts and crafts, art workshops, new handicrafts. ACoruña. December-January. - Salón de Joyería Gallega. Galicia Jewellery Fair. ACoruña. October.

35 Getting Around the City

The old quarter of the city is a pedestrian area. Since the city is quite small and there are many places to visit, it is best to see it on foot. The Postal and sidewalks in the suburbs have Telephone Services ramps for wheel-chairs. There are no sidewalks in the old • Post Offices quarter and the monuments - Central Post Office (Oficina do not offer many difficulties Central de Correos y to the disabled. Telégrafos). Travesía de Fonseca ☎ 981 58 12 52 • Buses. There are 10 local - Branch Post Office (RENFE bus routes which connect the station): centre to the suburbs. ☎ 981 59 66 18 Local buses. Information: - Telegram messages by ☎ 981 58 18 15 phone: ☎ 902 19 71 97

• Taxis. There are numerous taxi ranks around • Telephone Services the city. Those located on the - Local, national and streets Montero Ríos, international calls can be ☎ 981 56 10 28 made from phone-boxes all and the Square of Roxa, around the city. It is ☎ 981 59 59 64 offer advisable to buy phone 24-hour service. cards at the «tabac» shops (where you can also buy tobacco, stamps • Car-parks. For those and stationary) or at the who come by car, there are centres belonging to car-parks distributed Telefónica (Spanish Telecom throughout the city. It is Operator). easier to park in the new part of the city than in the - Telefónica telephone centre: old quarter. Calle Senra, 5

36 - There are numerous other -- Local Police establishments around the city Calle Pazo Raxoi. ☎ 092 which offer telephone and fax and ☎ 981 54 23 23 services. - Guardia Civil Information about ☎ 981 58 16 11 telephoning: 1003. International code when • Fire Department calling from Spain: 00. ☎ 080 and 981 58 10 10

• Lost Property Office and Local Police Emergency Services ☎ 981 54 23 23 • Emergency Medical Attention - General Hospital. ☎ 981 54 00 00 -National Health Clinic. Calle Santiago León de Caracas, 12 ☎ 981 52 70 00 - Emergencies. (SOS Galicia) San Marcos ☎ 900 44 42 22 Square of Platerías and 981 54 14 00 - Red Cross. Avenida de Lugo. ☎ 981 58 69 69 - Galician Confederation for the Handicapped and Disabled Modesto Brocos, 7 ☎ 981 57 46 98

• Police - National Police. Rúa de Rodrigo de Padrón. ☎ 091 and ☎ 981 58 19 44

37 Excursions from Santiago

Finisterre beach

• From Noia to the Costa de preserved and most beautiful la Muerte (Coast of Death). town on the Galician coast, The C-543 road connects comprising noblemen and Santiago to Noia, 30 km. sailor’s houses, all encircled away. In the beautiful old by beaches. Leaving the quarter of this town you can beach of Ézaro behind and see numerous houses built by having passing through Cee noblemen with series of and Corcubión, we reach Gothic arches. The Finisterre (Fisterra). Between Romanesque Church of Santa Corcubión and Finisterre María a Nova has a there are also some excellent fascinating trade-guild beaches. Beyond this cemetery. From Noia the C- charming fishing village is the 550 runs along the river until Cape of Finisterre (Fisterra), it reaches Muros. Streets with the western-most point in the most romantic names form Europe. For centuries it was what is perhaps the best believed to mark the end of

38 the world and it became a Camilo José Cela. At the place of worship for Celts, mouth of the Ulla, at Catoira, Romans and Christians. From the Towers of the West stand, Finisterre to Malpica near the only remains of the ACoruña runs the Costa da fortress built by Alfonso V. Morte (Coast of Death): sheer The avenue of Rosalía de cliffs and fiercely beautiful Castro joins the fishing village wild seas make up this of Carril with Vilagarcía de coastline which is only broken Arousa, the main town on the periodically by unexpected estuary and important sandy beaches. The well- business centre. The Lobeira known pedra da abalar vantage point provides an (abalar stone) which is linked outstanding view of the area. to prehistoric worshipping The Deiro turn-off on the practices and has also been C-550 road leads, across a integrated into the St. James spectacular bridge, to the tradition, can be seen at Island of Arousa and its Muxía. Camariñas, situated eighty beaches. Continuing on the other side of the along the C-550, we soon estuary, complements its local reach Cambados, the fishing industry with the principal Albariño wine- bobbin-lace which is worked making centre and location of by the women of the village. a «Parador de Turismo» or Daily buses from Santiago to State Hotel. The sophisticated Noia, Muros, Corcubión, Square of Fefiñáns comprises Fisterra and Vimianzo. the Galician country house of Information at Turgalicia on Figueroa and the Church of the Santiago-Noia road, San Bieito. The ruins of Santa 3 km. ☎ 981 53 54 25 Mariña D’Ozo contain a sailors’ cemetery, and the • From Padrón to La Toja. small island of Figueira According to legend, the boat preserves two 10th Century which brought the remains of towers. was an St. James called into port at island until the 16th Century; Iria Flavia, today known as the isthmus which joins it to Padrón. The town is also the the mainland forms the birthplace of the Nobel famous beach of A Lanzada. Prizewinner for Literature, A bridge connects O Grove to

39 the island of La Toja, one of Son with the beach of the most important tourist sites Aguieira in-between. In in Galicia. Baroña there are some Tourist Information: Vilagarcía important remains of a Pre- de Arousa. Roman settlement. From ☎ 986 51 01 44 Oleiros, via the dolmen of Tourist Information: Axeitos, we reach the cape O Grove. and beach of Corrubedo ☎ 986 73 15 54 and the lagoons of Carregal and Vixán. The natural • Barbanza. This is the surroundings are extremely name of the peninsula which rich throughout this whole comprises the Muros and area. Aguiño, Ribeira, Pobra Arousa estuaries, between do Caramiñal and Boiro face Noia and Padrón. Along the the estuary of Arousa. The coastline which is broken up Curota vantage point, which by the mountain range can be reached from Pobra which shapes it, the rough do Caramiñal, affords some cliffs are alternately broken of the best views in Galicia. up by ports and sandy beaches. From Noia we can • The French Road to reach Portosín and Porto do Santiago. Among the seven

La Toja. Spa

40 Lugo. Monastery of San Julián de Samos routes which led to Santiago, • La Ribeira Sagrada del the French route was the one Miño. The river Miño and its taken by most of the pilgrims. tributary the are the two The European Council has main rivers in Galicia. The recognized it as the first expression «Ribeira cultural itinerary in Europe. Sagrada» (Sacred Bank) From Villafranca del Bierzo to refers to the large number of Santiago the road is not monasteries (mosteiros in marked by any great Galician) situated on the monuments except for Samos upper Sil basin. It was later and Portomarín, but the route extended to include the runs through some banks of the Miño where the extraordinary scenery. The number of mostly main stages of the journey Romanesque monasteries is within Galicia, departing even larger. The countryside from Santiago, are: Lavacolla, ranges from the vineyard Arzúa, Melide, Palas de Rei, terraces of to the Monterroso, Portomarín, indigenous oak woods. From , Samos, Tricastela, Santiago, the N-525 leads to Cebreiro and Pedrafita do Lalín and from there Cebreiro. continues on to . In

41 Salvador de Asma and the Sanguñedo oakwood. Along a meandering stretch of the Miño river we find the Monastery of Santa María de Nogueira, on the road which leads to Os Peares and where the Sil flows into the Miño. On the other side of the Sil, travelling in the direction of Monforte, the Monastery of San Vicenzo de Pombeiro is situated in a beautiful spot. San Estevo de . Roman bridge Atán, a monastery founded in the 8th Century, is difficult to get to. Following the road to Monforte we arrive at the surrounding area we can Ferreira de Pantón. Near find the Romanesque here, the Castle of Maside Churches of San Pedro de and the Monasteries of Santa Bembibre, Taboada dos María and San Fiz de Freires and, on the other side Cangas are worth visiting. of the Belesar reservoir, the On the road to Fión, behind Church of San Vitorio de the 18th Century Galician Ribas de Miño. Chantada, country house of Ferreiroá, squeezed between the Miño we find the Temple of San canyon and the O Faro Miguel de Eiré which is mountain range, has a lovely called «El mosteiro» because town centre of colonnaded it is so ancient. From Fión it narrow streets. From this is possible to go down to the point the visitor will discover Temple of San Martiño da many fascinating Cova. To finish, two monasteries. Near the outstanding monasteries are Belesar dam is the San Paio de Diomondi and Monastery of Santa María San Estevo de Ribas de de Pesqueiras; to the south Miño. For this excursion it is are the Monastery of San best to go by car.

42 • El Pico Sacro (Sacred Peak) famous Pazo de Oca, where and the Galician country the visitor can walk around the palaces. Going from Lestedo, gardens which have given the 12 km along the Santiago- palace the nickname, Orense road, there is a turn-off somewhat exaggerated which leads to Pico Sacro, a perhaps, of the Galician spot which is shrouded in Versailles. The visit is free. legend and whose summit affords a vast panoramic view • A Coruña. Located at 65 which stretches from the valley km from Santiago and capital of Ulla to Arosa. Returning of the province, A Coruña again to the main road we has a population of 250,000 soon reach the Ribadulla turn- inhabitants and is a key off, which is where the pazos political, economic and (palaces) route begins. Here cultural centre in Galicia. It we find the 16th Century Pazo has some magnificent de Santa Cruz and Pazo de beaches in the centre of the Gimaráns in the neighbouring town and is an important parish of San Mamede. Across port. The most characteristic the river Ulla at Valboa is the monument is the Torre de

Pontevedra. Gardens of the Pazo de Oca

43 A Coruña. Sea promenade

Hércules (Hercules Tower), a designed by the Japanese Roman lighthouse which was architect Isozaki, Domus is partially restored in the 18th the Museum of Mankind. It is Century and still works today. located on a stretch of the There are many corners of the Paseo Marítimo, before old quarter which are reaching the Torre de especially interesting, such as Hércules. The Casa de las the series of monuments Ciencias (Science Museum) is which include the Pazo de in the park of Santa Cornide, the Gothic Transept Margarita. Just 65 km away and the Collegiate Church of from Santiago, La Coruña is Santa María do Campo. The renowned as a lively town at avenue of La Marina features any time of the year. a beautiful collection of gallery-windowed houses. On You can get there via the A-9 the way to the Castle of San motorway or the main N-550 Antón, which houses the road. Numerous trains and Archaeological Museum, the buses link the two cities. new Paseo Marítimo (Sea A Coruña Tourist Office: Promenade) stretches out. Calle Dársena de la Marina. Recently inaugurated and ☎ 981 22 18 22.

44 Tourist Information

International dialling code: 34 Municipal Citizens’ Information Office Tourist Information Telephone Plaza de la Trinidad. ☎ 010 Turespaña: 901 300 600 www.tourspain.es PARADORES DE ESPAÑA Municipal Tourist Office Reservation Centre Plaza de Galicia Requena, 3 - 28013 Madrid ☎ 981 58 44 00 and ☎ 91 516 66 66 ☎ 981 57 39 90 Fax 91 516 66 57 Tourist Office www.parador.es Rúa del Villar, 43 Parador Hotel Reyes Católicos ☎ 981 58 40 81 ☎ 981 58 22 00 Fax 981 56 30 94

SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROAD Canada. Toronto. Tourist Office of Spain. 2 Bloor Street West suite 3402. TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2. ☎ 1416/ 961 31 31, fax 1416/ 961 19 92. E-Mail: [email protected] Great Britain. London. Spanish Tourist Office. Manchester Square, 22-23. LONDON W1M 5AP. ☎ 44207/ 486 80 77, fax 44207/ 486 80 34. E-Mail: [email protected] Japan. Tokyo. Tourist Office of Spain. Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKIO-105. ☎ 813/ 34 32 61 41, fax 813/ 34 32 61 44. E-Mail: [email protected] Russia. Moscow. Spanish Tourist Office. Tverskaya – 16/2 Business Center “Galeria Aktor” 6th floor Moscow 103009. ☎ 7095/ 935 83 99, fax 7095/ 935 83 96. E-Mail: [email protected] Singapore. Singapore. Spanish Tourist Office. 541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04. 238881 Singapore. ☎ 657/ 37 30 08, fax 657/ 37 31 73. E-Mail: [email protected] United States of America. Los Angeles. Tourist Office of Spain. 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960. BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211. ☎ 1323/ 658 71 95, fax 1323/ 658 10 61. E-Mail: [email protected] Chicago. Tourist Office Of Spain. Water Tower Place, suite 915 East. 845, North Michigan Avenue. CHICAGO, IL 60.611. ☎ 1312/ 642 19 92, fax 1312/ 642 98 17. E-Mail: [email protected] Miami. Tourist Office of Spain. 1221 Brickell Avenue. MIAMI, Florida 33131. ☎ 1305/ 358 19 92, fax 1305/ 358 82 23. E-Mail: [email protected] New York. Tourist Office of Spain. 666 Fifth Avenue 35 th floor. NEW YORK, N.Y. 10103. ☎ 1212/ 265 88 22, fax 1212/ 265 88 64. E-Mail: [email protected]

EMBASSIES IN MADRID Canada: Núñez de Balboa, 35. ☎ 91 431 43 00, fax 91 431 23 67 Great Britain: Fernando El Santo, 16. ☎ 91 319 02 00, fax 91 308 10 33 Japan: Serrano, 109. ☎ 91 590 76 00, fax 91 590 13 21 Rusia: Velázquez, 155. ☎ 91 562 22 64, fax 91 562 97 12 United States of America: Serrano, 75. ☎ 91 587 22 00, fax 91 587 23 03

45 Itinerary 1 Itinerary 6 1. The College of San Jerónimo 33. Convent of Santa Clara 2. Pazo Raxoi 34. Hospital of San Roque 3. Antiguo Hospital Real (Old Royal Hospital) 35. Convent of Santo Domingo Bonaval 4. The Gelmírez Palace 36. Galician Contemporary Art Centre 5. Cloister building 37. Convent of the Jesuits 38. Church of San Agustín 39. San Fiz de Solovio Itinerary 2 40. Geography and History Faculty 6. The Cathedral. 41. Mazarelos Arch 42. Casa de Valderrama 43. Convent of Las Mercedarias Descalzas Itinerary 3 7. Town Hall tinerary 7 8. Casa de la Parra I 9. Casa de Conga 44. Belvís Convent 10. Church of San Paio 45. The Collegiate Church of Santa María del Sar 46. The Convent of Santa María de Conxo Itinerary 4 11. Monastery of San Paio de Antealtares 12. House of Canon Juan Somoza 13. Church of San Bento 14. Palace of Fondevila 15. Old Palace of the Count of Aranda 16. Church of Las Ánimas 17. Pilgrimage Museum 18. Church of San Miguel dos Agros 19. Church of San Martín 20. Monastery of San Martín Pinario 21. Monastery of San Francisco 22. Faculty of Medicine Conventional signs Itinerary 5 23. Colegio Mayor de Fonseca i Tourist Information Office. 24. The Dean’s Residence Post. 25. Palace of Bendaña 26. Colegio de los Irlandeses Telephones. 27. Church of Santa María de Salomé Petrol station. 28. Palace of Fonseca 29. Main Theatre P Parador (State Hotel). 30. Palace of Mondragón P Parking 31. Casa de las Pomas 32. Casa de la Balconada Police.

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