LATE SPRING FOR KMART?/4 FASHION’S NIGHT/10 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • November 3, 2003 • $2.00

Uma Thurman and Jean Paul Gaultier at WWDMONDAY Night of Stars. Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear A Simple Plan NEW YORK — Not every girl is into flou and flounce. So fans of streamlined chic will be happy to note that Calvin Klein is branching out with a better-priced collection that will be shown to stores Wednesday. The line features no-fuss looks à la signature Calvin — supersoft tanks and Ts, matte jersey dresses and sporty jackets. Here, a leather jacket, Tencel top and charmeuse skirt. For more on Calvin Klein, see pages 8 and 9.

Intrigue Grows at LVMH: Karan Said Up for Sale, Could Jacobs Be Next? By Eric Wilson NEW YORK — Donna Karan International is for sale, after all. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is preparing to sell the fashion house, possibly by the end of the year, according to numerous sources familiar with the two companies. In the meantime, sources said, Jeffry M. Aronsson is the lead candidate to take the chief executive reins at Karan, replacing Fred Wilson. But that’s not the end of the intrigue about LVMH. While insiders say the French luxury conglomerate has been quietly shopping Karan around for at See LVMH, Page13 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; UMA THURMAN BY JOHN CALABRESE THOMAS IANNACCONE; UMA THURMAN BY PHOTO BY lejaby rose. the ultimate french lingerie. trade preview this week. appearing in stores april 2004. 4 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Vendors Bemoan Kmart’s Silent Spring GENERAL Calvin Klein’s new better-price line keeps things simple and streamlined, By Vicki M. Young vice president and chief creative they look elsewhere for business. officer, reporting to chief execu- The Kmart spokeswoman, 8 but sources still expect it to generate first-year sales of $100 million. NEW YORK — Kmart Holding tive Julian Day. She is expected however, emphasized that by Observers are becoming convinced that LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton Corp. says it’s being “strategic” to work closely with a chief mer- now a “majority of the orders 1 might be open to a sale of its Donna Karan and Marc Jacobs franchises. about its spring ordering, but chant at Kmart but that post, as have been confirmed” with our some of its vendors have another has been the case for several vendors and that “deliveries are The annual Night of Stars gala heated up when Donna Karan teased her word for the approach — slow. years, has yet to be filled. not in jeopardy.” 10 ceo, Fred Wilson, about his rumored departure for Saks Fifth Avenue. While many of its competi- A Kmart spokeswoman said Non-apparel vendors say that Fin.part, the heavily indebted group, is at odds again with auditor KPMG, tors, such as giants Wal-Mart that the slow pace of spring or- they haven’t experienced any- 2 which has declined to certify its accounts for the first six months of 2003. Stores and Target Corp., have dering was due to nothing more thing unusual with the rate of been busy putting through or- than Schultz and the new team orders placed by the store, so Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana broke with tradition, appearing at ders for the spring season, ap- she’s assembling getting a han- the issue with unconfirmed or- 23 Saks Fifth Avenue’s flagship for the launch of their new Sicily fragrance. parel vendors say that Kmart dle on what’s store-bound for ders is peculiar just to apparel EYE: Arthur Inch, the former butler for Winston Churchill and the Queen Mother, currently is sitting on its hands next year. firms. 6 talks about his book, “Dinner Is Served”…lunching with Giambattista Valli. and on confirmation of many “Because of the changes in At least one apparel vendor, spring orders. Their nervous- the Kmart merchandising team, whose sales associate just re- Classified Advertisements ...... 26-27 ness was recently exacerbated we were being strategic about turned here from a meeting by the departure of Michael the apparel assortment that with Kmart, wasn’t appeased by To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Lewis, who had been divisional would appear in our stores for news of the confirmation of a [email protected], using the individual's name. president of women’s wear. spring 2004,” she said. “The “majority” of Kmart’s orders. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2003 Manufacturers characterize process involved evaluation and The vendor said, “We were FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. the Troy, Mich.-based dis- reviews of the proposed spring told that orders are not being VOLUME 186, NO. 93. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays counter, which emerged from lines, which delayed confirma- placed right now and that the with one additional issue every month except July and two additional issues in April and September and three in August) by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY bankruptcy nearly six months tion of vendor orders.” buyers would need to speak 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, ago, as hemming and hawing its Some apparel vendors didn’t with its product development C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John way into the holidays and using seem reassured by that and are team. From what I understand, Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General Manager, Advance Magazine corporate reorganization and a complaining that Kmart isn’t it is the new team that will place Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post review of early 2004 merchan- even confirming orders that were orders from now on. They could- Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. dise as a cover for procrastina- already placed. Manufacturers’ n’t even tell us how long we Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. tion and lack of direction. fear of being stuck with unsold should wait for an answer.” FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR As reported, Kmart two good has grown in the last month, She added that even after DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is months ago named former Gap with some questioning how much speaking with the Kmart buyers, required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production executive Lisa Schultz senior longer they should wait before Continued on page 24 correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Déjà Vu for Fin.part, KPMG WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE By Amanda Kaiser buying craze and racked up it’s negotiating the sale of textile ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. enough debt to rival the size of printing company Star. MILAN — History is repeating its yearly revenues. The acquisi- Fin.part said Thursday its net itself for Fin.part. tions binge culminated when it financial debt stood at $414.7 MONDAY: New York Spring Accessories Market Week. The heavily indebted multi- snapped up Cerruti through two million, or 356.4 million euros, as brand group that owns Cerruti is transactions in 2000 and 2001. of the end of September, down TUESDAY: Fatex and Interselection trade shows, Paris once again at odds with KPMG. Fin.part paid a total of $137 mil- from $621.7 million, or 534.2 mil- (through Thursday). The auditing firm has declined to lion for Cerruti, a company that lion euros, a year earlier. certify the company’s accounts, posted consolidated sales of $66 KPMG, reiterating comments WEDNESDAY: WWD/DNR CEO Summit, New York this time for the first six months million in 1999. made in April when reviewing (through Friday). of 2003. In April, KPMG issued Cerruti — along with a host of Fin.part’s 2002 numbers, ques- Filo yarn fair, Cernobbio, Italy (through Friday). the same verdict on Fin.part’s acquisitions such as home linen tioned whether the company can Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. and Tommy Hilfiger Corp. 2002 books, spurring a crisis that house Frette, sportswear brands realistically carry out its strategic report second-quarter earnings. precipitated the resignation of Henry Cottons, Moncler and plan and stay in business. The The Estée Lauder Cos. holds its annual meeting in Gianluigi Facchini as chairman. Marina Yachting and footwear primary component of this plan New York. “The group sustained large firm Andrea Pfister — rounded calls for a capital increase of losses in the first half of 2003 and out Fin.part’s portfolio but also $81.5 million, or 70 million euros. THURSDAY: Major retailers report on October same- in the last two fiscal years and brought on substantial debt. In an Facchini, still Fin.part’s store sales. has a high amount of debt that effort to repair the damage, biggest shareholder with a 19.5 has brought with it a situation of Fin.part has sold some small as- percent stake, claims that the FRIDAY: The Labor Department releases the October

financial tension,” KPMG said in sets such as the Moncler and company has the financial re- COMING THIS WEEK employment report. its review of Fin.part accounts, Maska brands, as well as the Boggi sources to come up with that characterizing the company’s re- retail chain. The company said sum and even overshoot the tar- lations with suppliers as “criti- late Thursday that it sold Andrea get “significantly.” KPMG said it cal.” It also questioned whether Pfister for $1.98 million, or 1.7 mil- believes otherwise. Fin.part will come up with the lion euros converted at current ex- KPMG wrote that there cur- In Brief needed funds to recapitalize. change, to Mondostile Srl, a pri- rently “is not adequate documen- Founded in 1996 by Facchini, vately held company linked to the tary evidence” to demonstrate Fin.part embarked on a feverish shoe designer. Fin.part also said Continued on page 7 ● ZALE SHINES: Shares of Zale Corp. rose to their highest levels in four years, following Goldman Sachs’ upgrade of the stock. Analyst Adrianne Shapira raised her rating on Zales to “outper- form” from “in line,” elevated her fiscal 2004 earnings estimate to $4 a share from $3.68 and introduced a 2005 earnings per share forecast of $4.50. Shares rose $2.91, or 6 percent, to close at $51.76 De Beers Takes Rodeo Locale on New York Stock Exchange trading and reached a high of $52.05 in intraday trading. In raising her guidance and view, NEW YORK — De Beers LV re- Iman presence should increase public Shapira cited management’s appetite for stock repurchases, the vealed Friday that it plans to interest in diamond jewelry for likelihood of future expansion of margins and comparable-store open its second U.S. store late all the jewelers on Rodeo Drive.” sales gains and the firm’s new off-mall jewelry store concept. next year in the former Fred lo- Among the jewelers in the cation on Rodeo Drive in Los vicinity are Harry Winston, ● BRANDS SWELL FOR HOLIDAY?: Sales of sportswear bearing Angeles. Cartier and Chanel. national brands will outpace private label this holiday and fuel De Beers LV, which is the The first U.S. De Beers store a 4 percent increase in overall sportswear volume in the joint jewelry retail venture be- is slated to open on Fifth Avenue November-December period, Art Spar, chairman and chief exec- tween De Beers and LVMH and 55th Street here in October utive officer at Cambridge, Mass.-based STS Market Research Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, 2004. A London store opened last forecast Thursday. That result would mark a positive swing of 3.7 took over the lease from Fred, November and three in-store percentage points versus the 0.3 percent decline in sales sports- which is also owned by LVMH, a boutiques opened in Japan in wear saw during holiday 2002. Jeans and activewear are expect- company spokeswoman said. September. ed to be the most sought after sportswear purchases for holiday. Poster-size photos of Iman, the De Beers said recently that it Citing research STS conducted at department stores around De Beers LV spokeswoman, were has so far spent about $55 mil- the country, Spar said, “Both men and women — and especially slated to go up at the store this lion on the joint venture. The women — are showing a preference for national brands over pri- past weekend and will stay at the two companies have said they vate labels.” Sportswear brands performing particularly well at site until the boutique opens. plan to spend about $200 million the department stores, Spar said, include Polo/Ralph Lauren, Alain Lorenzo, chief executive combined on the project. Calvin Klein, Liz Claiborne, Energie, Erika, Levi’s and L.E.I. officer of De Beers LV, said, “Our PHOTO BY WIREIMAGE — Melanie Kletter OPEN.AMERICANEXPRESS.COM

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Getting all the “silver, glass and the china ready for a big dinner party used to take all afternoon. ” Giambattista Vallilli withwith ImanIman inin EmanuelEmanuel Ungaro. Sights of Fancy manuel Ungaro designer Giambattista Valli made a rare appearance at the EMadison Avenue boutique last week for a lunch in his honor. Lauren du Pont, Marjorie Raein, Renee Rockefeller, Ann Jones and Iman came to check out his new set of accessories inspired by a trip to Los Angeles and Cambodia, including handbags in the shape of camcorders, compact disc players and over- sized headphones, whose padded earmuffs open up to store a credit card. “Now why can’t they make these cameras so they actually work? It can’t be that difficult,” Diandra Douglas asked. Later in the week, Tara Rockefeller, Tory Burch, Anne Grauso and Jennifer Creel joined Coralie Arthur Inch Lars Nilsson to toast his debut collection for Charriol with Nina Ricci. Judy Peabody (in Bill Blass from Jazz Johnson NEW YORK — Some might say that with perfume before dinner are long gone, but Nilsson’s last season with the label) admired in Yves Saint rules are made to be broken. Not he hopes that his new book will help modern clothing she wasn’t sure had enough tulle for Laurent. Arthur Inch. The former butler, hosts and hostesses navigate the dizzying world her tastes — “This is definitely for the younger eye® who served everyone from Winston of bullion spoons and ice cream forks. “You may generation,” she said. Gigi Mortimer traded Churchill to the Queen Mother in sop up gravy with bread by putting a small piece Halloween cupcake-decorating techniques his day, prides himself on doing down on the gravy and then eating it with your with Ines Rivera. things properly. And judging by his new book, fork, not your fingers,” the book advises. The That evening at the Night of Olana, spon- “Dinner Is Served” (Running Press) written in staff should serve from the left, never resting sored by Yves Saint Laurent, Dayssi Olarte de collaboration with Arlene Hirst, entertaining by their right hands on the guests’ chairs. Cakes Kanavos described her children’s Halloween the rules is much harder than it looks. and pies should face diners point first. costumes, one of which she had tried to make “We would start at 6:30 in the morning,” says Glassware should be cleaned without “screwing herself. “I can’t sew and I can’t make pat- Inch, calling from Sussex, England, where he off the stem,” as the footmen say. terns,” Olarte de Kanavos said. “So every time retired in 1980 after 50 years in private service. In the book, Inch also describes the current I left the house, my housekeeper would fix it “When you got to be butler, which was one step Queen’s admirable manners, recalling an after- up for me.” up from first footman, then your main work was noon when she accidentally doused a strawberry Coralie Charriol didn’t know who she was KEITH SMITH CENTENO; OLANA BY ALAYA overseeing the dinner table. Getting all the sil- with salt and ate it without causing a fuss. wearing — “It makes me look like Beyoncé, but ver, glass and the china ready for a big dinner Winston Churchill, on the other hand, was “a I don’t have her tush” — but at least Jazz party used to take all afternoon.” nightmare to work for” and kept his dinner Johnson seemed comfortable in her green YSL Inch, now 87, began his career as a guests in the dining room until after mid- gown, if not in her new position. “I’m the chair- hall boy at age 15, serving in the night, leaving the staff, who had to begin man of the board for Olana,” Johnson ex- house where his father was a work again at 6:30 a.m., no time to clean claimed. “I don’t know what that means exact- butler and his mother was a up. Then he “would stay in bed until ly, but I’m the new chairman.” housemaid. “I grew up playing midday, constantly ringing his Jennifer billiards with the footman and odd wretched bell.” Creel in men,” he says. By 19, he’d landed a But while Inch lodges a few mild Nina Ricci. position as a footman for Sir John complaints, he insists that the first Dashwood and worked his way up the rule of private service is discre- ranks, becoming a second footman at tion. “You’ve always got to be the Spanish Embassy, a first footman to polite and loyal to the employ- the Duke of Marlborough, then a lady’s ers,” he says. “This so-called but- footman to the Marquis of Londonderry, ler that used to be with Princess where he occasionally served in full livery, Diana, he’s letting out all these secrets. breeches, stockings and bicorne hat. He’s not a loyal man. He’s just out for making “When you’re a boy, you’ve got your friends, money for himself.” and when I was working the weekends I used to “I’ve seen a lot in my time,” Inch adds. “But I think, ‘By jove, I wish I was out with them,’” would never ever do anything like that.” says Inch. “But in those days you had to do During his years in service, Inch says that what your father told you, and consequently, I the line between “the gentries” — as those in just carried on working in private service until private service called their employers — and the war time came.” the employees was rarely blurred. “We weren’t For those serving in England’s grand homes, envious of them, we just did our job and that where staff members were plentiful and the was that,” he says. Some days Inch had only two lifestyle was as ritualistic as it was lavish, the hours off-duty, which he spent taking an after- war changed everything. noon walk. The rest of the time he honored “the “There’s no sort of private service like there two Ps”: planning and preparation. was before World War II,” says Inch, who con- Living in a cottage near the main house, sulted on the film, “Gosford Park.” “Now the Inch’s own dinners with his wife were less Lillian von girls just won’t go back into private service be- grand, but no less proper. “It was called the art Stauffenberg Jane Lauder cause they had so much freedom during the war. of gracious living, and in a small way you inin TulehTuleh atat thethe at the Nina Gigi Mortimer at Private service is a very tiring occupation. brought it back to your home,” he says. “She Ungaro lunch. Ricci lunch. Night of Olana.

Many’s a time I’ve worked a 20-hour day.” would cook, I would lay the table and we would T BY NINA RICCI LUNCH MITRA; ROBERT BY GEORGE CHINSEE; EMANUEL UNGARO LUNCH BY MICHAEL DENMAN; “DINNER IS SERVED” INCH PHOTO BY The evenings when Inch used to scent the air just have a nice meal together.” WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 7 More Accounting Woes for Fin.part Berg Named at Benetton Continued from page 4 amassed most of his professional experience NEW YORK — Aiming for a fresh Harper’s Bazaar magazine. In addi- that the capital increase, “the principal at Dow Chemical Co. and several firms image, the United Colors of tion, he restyled L’Espresso, the means of financial intervention supporting owned by Italian Prime Minister Silvio Benetton brand has named Joel Berg Italian weekly news magazine. the company’s strategic plan,” can be effec- Berlusconi and his family. as art director. Since the exit of Oliviero Toscani tively carried out. In the meantime, there is speculation that In the new post, Berg will shape as Benetton’s creative director in Fin.part once again defended its financial Storer, a Marzotto veteran, could be leaving Benetton’s brand identity, with a May 2000, Benetton Group’s product stability. The company said Thursday that Fin.part. He joined the company early last special focus on advertising, sales advertising and corporate imaging Facchini pumped another $15.5 million, or year. An Italian weekly reported recently outlets and collections presenta- have been handled by Fabrica, the in- 13.3 million euros, into operations. It also said that Storer could be linking up with LVMH tion. Initially, he will concentrate house creative laboratory and com- that the banks have guaranteed another $23.3 Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton fund L Capital on creating the imagery for munications arm founded by Toscani million, or 20 million euros, in credit lines. to launch a management buyout of sports- Benetton’s fall 2004/winter 2005 in 1993. For the past few years, the Fin.part has a large bill due next year, when it wear division Pepper Industries, which con- marketing campaign. United Colors of Benetton ads have must repay $232.8 million, or 200 million trols the Marina Yachting, Henry Cotton’s Berg is set to join Benetton this reprised portraits of a diverse group euros, in bonds. and Pepper labels. Local press reports have week from D-La Repubblica delle sporting the brand’s apparel. On Fin.part’s financial woes triggered a man- named several Italian private equity funds Donne magazine, where he was cre- Benetton Group’s corporate front, agement shake-up at the company. In May, as other potential suitors for the brands. ative director. Fabrica’s most recent campaign com- Fin.part named Ubaldo Livolsi as chairman A Fin.part spokesman declined to com- The Swedish-born Berg, 37, has prised the politically charged images to replace Facchini, who retained his role as ment on any speculation regarding Storer. held various fashion art director po- it developed for the World Health co-chief executive alongside Silvano Storer. L Capital did not return phone calls seek- sitions, including at the Calvin Klein Organization’s Global Campaign for Livolsi, who owns his own merchant bank, ing comment. and Hennes & Mauritz brands and Violence Prevention. BRAG Fetes Industry Achievers

NEW YORK — Following its tra- dition of recognizing achieve- ments in retailing and other industries, the Black Retail Action Group held its annual awards dinner and scholar- Framingham, Massachusetts ship fund-raiser, called “Something for the Soul,” Oct. TO OUR MANUFACTURERS AND SUPPLIERS: STATEMENT OF POLICY CONCERNING GIFTS

We are taking this opportunity to restate our policy concerning gift-giving, not only during the forthcoming holiday season, but at all times of the year. On any occasion, gifts, no matter how well-intentioned by the donor, tend to shake the moral structure of the firmest business foundations by substituting subjective emotions and motives for objective judgment based on service, quality and price.

Accordingly, for the mutual protection of our suppliers, our associates and the Company, we prohibit our associates from accepting gifts, gratuities, payments or favors of any kind. Any gifts received by our associates will be returned to the donor or donated to charitable organizations. Our associates are advised that violation of this policy is considered to be a grievous matter.

We c all upon you to assist us and our associates by refraining from giving or offering such

PHOTO BY GERALD PEART gifts. Your awareness of and cooperation with this policy will foster the continuation of fair Jeffrey Tweedy, with Gloria Hartley, business practices that favor our close association. president of BRAG. 24 at the Sheraton Hotel & Best wishes for a happy holiday season and a prosperous New Year. Towers in New York. Business achievement awards were presented to Terence X. Bogan, vice presi- dent and divisional merchan- dise manager of the women’s Co-op at Barneys New York; Bernard Cammarata Edmond J. English Jeffrey Tweedy, executive vice Chairman of the Board President and Chief Executive Officer president of Sean John; Edward Wilkerson, design di- rector at Lafayette 148; June The Marmaxx Group/T.J.Maxx/Marshalls HG Buying, Inc./HomeGoods Winners Merchants Inc./ Horne, designer buyer at Saks Winners Lexington Buying Group/HomeSense Concord Buying Group Inc./A.J.Wright T.K.Maxx Fifth Avenue; Christine Meier, group vice president for central human resources & diversity, Macy’s East, and Everick Brown, owner and president of EB Home, who received the J.J. Thomas Young Innovators Award. BRAG secured 17 scholar- ships for students interested in pursuing careers in retail and related industries, beating last year’s record of 15 scholarships. 8 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 Calvin’sX Better M

By Lisa Lockwood formed to develop new lines, in an unusual joint venture arrangement. Kellwood handles distribution, fabric pur- NEW YORK — Calvin Klein Inc. is banking on its new bet- chasing, production, warehousing and the entire financial ter-price line, known simply as Calvin Klein, to be a win- side, while G.A.V. is responsible for design, sales, market- ner right out of the box. ing and preproduction. Jay Schottenstein is G.A.V.’s finan- Taking its design cues from Klein’s Collection, sources cial backer. estimate the better line will generate close to $100 million “The category has evolved and it feels like the right in wholesale volume in its first year. time,” said Murry. He also said the team of G.A.V. and “It’s going to be our biggest business,” said Tom Murry, Kellwood “feels really good.” president and chief executive officer of CKI, a division of According to Alexander Vreeland, president and chief Phillips-Van Heusen, in an interview last week. “It’s our operating officer of G.A.V., the plan is for limited distribu- Calvin Klein’s most important business, and it consistently lines up with tion for spring to 150 doors around the country such as washable suede what we’ve established as a department store brand,” he Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s West, Lord & Taylor, Marshall jacket and silk said, referring to Klein’s other products such as under- Field’s and May Co. G.A.V. doesn’t plan to sell all doors of a charmeuse skirt. wear, intimate apparel, fragrances and home furnishings. particular chain, but rather those that it feels can give it CKI has spent hundreds of millions of dollars over the the proper presentation and can sell it at regular price. past decade advertising the Calvin Klein name, but there’s “Retailers are looking for exclusive merchandise. That never been a total lifestyle collection that’s been avail- formula has worked so well in designer, and it hasn’t been able to a broad audience. applied in this price zone. We feel we could do just as “These pieces are what I believe women’s much volume with fewer stores,” said Vreeland, former sportswear should be — it is a well-balanced, executive vice president at Giorgio Armani. well-designed collection that sacrifices nothing Murry said he likes G.A.V.’s exclusive strategy. in terms of design, fit or fabric,” said Calvin “I compliment G.A.V.’s approach to door selection. Klein Friday. “This makes it possible for many Those doors are capable of making strong presentations, more women in America to wear something are in good locations and have the ability to sell at regular from Calvin Klein.” price,” he said. According to Murry, “Calvin and I felt for a Frank Doroff, executive vice president and general number of years that it would be appropriate to merchandise manager at Bloomingdale’s, said, “We bought enter the better zone. We wanted to make the the line. I think it’s beautiful and we’ll put it in 10 to 12 Calvin Klein aesthetic available to a larger seg- stores. It has a great aesthetic. It’s very sophisticated and ment of the population. Calvin’s always felt it’s will add a whole other level to the better market.” not important to be the first in a category, but The first line will be shipped to stores in March, fol- to be the best.” lowed by monthly shipments through June. The company Murry added that Bruce Klatsky, chairman is currently working with stores to build in-store shops that and ceo of PVH, and Mark Weber, president resemble theaters, said Murry. and chief operating officer of PVH, were Andrew Grossman, G.A.V.’s ceo, said that G.A.V. chose extremely eager to launch a better-price col- the manufacturing facilities based on its expertise in that lection, which was a motivating factor in their area. “Since 1977 we’ve been involved with the better- desire to purchase CKI last December. price zone, and we use the best of those facilities,” said “Our exposure prior to this was designer Grossman, who was previously chief operating officer of and bridge,” said Murry, referring to CKI. Of Giorgio Armani Corp., and earlier served as ceo of Chaus course, Warnaco still retains the license for Inc. and president of Jones Apparel Group. The line will CK Calvin Klein Jeans, which includes jeans be produced primarily in South Korea and Hong Kong, as and jeans-related sportswear. well as southern China. The new Calvin Klein label, which is simi- “We operate in lockstep with Kellwood. Once the goods lar to that of Klein’s other department store are sourced and the fabrics are purchased and given to the products such as underwear, home furnish- right destination, Kellwood takes over to handle all logistics, ings and intimate apparel, will have black let- and the distribution to the stores,” said Grossman. tering on a white background. To distinguish Stephen Ruzow, president of women’s wear at Kellwood, the name of the better line from that of the noted that the firm’s agreement with G.A.V. is something Collection, the latter will continue to be the industry hasn’t seen before. He said the arrangement known as “Calvin Klein Collection.” For would not impact Kellwood’s margins on the line since the spring 2004, the Collection label will say firm would have had to acquire the skills G.A.V. brings to Calvin Klein Collection in black lettering the table elsewhere anyway. on an ecru label, but for fall 2004, Calvin “The business is changing so rapidly today, it can’t be Klein Collection will be written in black business as usual,” said Ruzow. “You have to fight the war lettering on a black label. a different way. We are very comfortable with how the two Klein is entering the burgeoning better organizations are coming together.” He added that there zone at a popular time, with lines such as H would be a “seamless” connection between the two firms Hilfiger, Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Jones with “no locked doors.” New York Signature and Liz Claiborne’s Ruzow believes the line will stand out from its competi- Realities all battling for both the consumers’ tors in the better arena. attention and space on the selling floor. “It’s going to be very different from all the other offer- As reported, PVH granted the Calvin Klein bet- ings out there. It’s really different. It’s modern. It’s Calvin ter sportswear license last June to Kellwood Co., the Klein at a price,” added Ruzow. $2.2 billion apparel firm, and G.A.V., a company Grossman explained that he and Vreeland had original-

Alexander Vreeland, Andrew Grossman and Tom Murry. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 9

Cotton stretch pantsuit and Mousetrap Tencel T-shirt.

Tencel Satin T-shirt and trenchcoat. silk charmeuse drawstring skirt. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY

ly been in touch with Klatsky and Weber about getting Klein launch, photographed by Mikael Janssen. The ads perforated leather jackets, cropped trenchcoats, suede the Klein license, and Klatsky suggested that they team will break in April magazines. Advertising will also be jackets and peacoats. up with Kellwood. done at the local level via direct mail and in-store events Klein’s classic color palette of grey, white and black is “What we didn’t have was the infrastructure. [By in top markets such as New York, Chicago, San Francisco augmented with shades of soft blue, lavender and pale going with Kellwood, a public company] it gave PVH the and Los Angeles. pink on one particular delivery. comfort that the proper product would be made and Kellwood will be contributing a percentage of the line’s “We’ve taken a lot of inspiration from Calvin’s her- shipped,” said Grossman. sales to the marketing efforts. “This brand will be very, very itage. We have a vast archive from Calvin,” said Carrigan, For spring, Calvin Klein will show retailers the line heavily advertised and promoted in the spring,” said Ruzow. who’s been with CKI six years. Sometimes they took from CKI headquarters at 205 West 39th Street here, but There will be a separate campaign for the men’s Klein’s well-known silhouettes and freshened them up, next season it will be presented at G.A.V.’s new head- Calvin Klein line, produced by PVH. That line will be such as the slipdress or peacoat. And they added a few quarters at 360 Park Avenue South. introduced to stores for Father’s Day. new silhouettes, in keeping with the season’s trends, Describing the line’s point of view, Grossman said, The women’s line is designed by Robin Howe, design such as the shorter skirt with pleats or the skinny leg “We’re a Calvin Klein-inspired career sportswear line. director, who was previously head designer for Jones pants with zippers on the hems. It’s sexy, it’s pretty, it’s sophisticated and it’s a commer- New York for 12 years. “There are sporty, athletic looks, mixed with refined cially slim fit. We believe it really appeals to a customer “We love going back to Calvin’s design heritage, but in looks,” said Howe, pointing to a silk georgette top de- who’s not shopping in a department store and has left to a new way,” said Kevin Carrigan, creative director for tailed with beads and edged in satin. Among the fabrics go to specialty stores. Traditional better lines haven’t the Calvin Klein better line and CK Calvin Klein at CKI. are suedes, linens, matte jersey, satin, silk charmeuse appealed to her.” He said the line sums up Klein’s American heritage. “It’s and silk georgette. “We think the product has a sophisticated point of very luxurious-looking American sportswear. It’s luxury Was it hard to use all these luxury fabrics, and keep view. It’s at the higher end of better,” added Vreeland. at a price,” he said. the prices at the better level? Wholesale prices will range from $30 for a knit top to Carrigan said one of the key looks pairs the softness “It all has do do with approaching fabrics from a taste $247.50 for a leather jacket. Skirts wholesale from $47.50 of a skirt with the toughness of a leather jacket. The line level,” said Carrigan. to $75; knits are $30 to $87.50; tailored pants are $62.50 to includes skirts in feminine prints, influenced by Klein’s “It’s in better prices, we didn’t creep past it,” said $75, and tailored jackets wholesale from $112.50 to $125. home and lingerie collections, as well as sexy slipdress- Howe. “Good fabrics don’t have to be ridiculously priced.” CKI will create a new ad campaign for the Calvin es, fine-gauge sweaters, silk bomber jackets, tumbled — With contributions from Evan Clark 10 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 Fashion’s Point of Reference NEW YORK — J’accuse! Stefano Gabbana, Riley Keough, Lisa Marie Presley and Domenico Dolce. Donna Karan and It was slow going for the first hour of Fashion Group International’s annual designer benefit on Demi Moore Thursday, but boy did things heat up when Donna Karan took the podium and pointed the finger at her own chief executive, Fred Wilson, who’s widely rumored to be taking over the reins of Saks Fifth Avenue — although she was the last to know. “Fred, you are my family and you always will be,” said Karan, jabbing the affable executive, who is credited with cleaning up her business since it was acquired by LVMH Moët Hennesy Louis Vuitton. Karan stoked the flames a bit more when she threw her hat into the ring for any available jobs in the industry. “There’s so many of the designers here I want to work for,” Karan told the audience. “When I saw Dries Van Noten, I had a coronary attack. I’d like to experi- ence other areas of design. I’ve always said I’d love to design Jean Paul Gaultier. MAC, I’ll do makeup. Calvin [Tsao], if you need an assistant in your studio. Fred, if you find you need a replacement as the ceo of my company, I’m available….As a woman, I’d like to see a woman standing here next year running for presi- dent. Of course, I’m available to do that as well.” Karan was half-kidding, but FGI’s annual Night of Stars hasn’t usually been a provocative affair. But this year, the celebrity factor threatened to over- whelm the event, as Liza Minnelli, Demi Moore, Lisa Marie Presley and daughter Riley Keough, Uma Thurman, Grace Jones and Iman nearly eclipsed the designers. There were many on hand: honorees Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Gaultier, Van Noten and Philip Treacy, Pierre Cardin, plus Amanda Brooks and Bryan Bradley, Behnaz Sarafpour, Miguel Adrover, Zac Posen, Maria Cornejo, David Meister, Cathy Hardwick, James Purcell and Pamela Dennis — many of them wearing their own designs or dragging a gaggle of Chloë Pierre Cardin with Grace Jones. models in their latest collections. Tsao was honored Sevigny for architecture, and awards were also presented to in Cartier and John Demsey of MAC. Jeffrey “Can you believe this?” asked Michael Kors as he Chow. escaped the media pen, about 20 minutes after his arrival with Karolina Kurkova. “This used to be so small, and when we pulled up, Karolina turned to me in the car and said, ‘I’m really shy.’” Fortunately, she was kidding, and worked re- porters all along the red carpet in a yellow lace dress. Gaultier wore one of his first men’s skirts from a 1985 collection, while Chloë Sevigny looked more sophisti- cated than usual, in a white Jeffrey Chow gown. “We have the same hairdresser,” she said. Minnelli wore a coat by Gianfranco Ferré, who was also in town last week. “It’s a coat he made just for me,” Minnelli said. “That’s all you need: a little Ferré, some slacks and a tan job.” Grace Jones arrived with her customary zeal, in long leather gloves, an Issey Miyake dress and one of Treacy’s elaborate hats, a ruby crystal-covered, form-fitting skullcap that covered her eyes and ex- tended a foot beyond her head, leaving her mouth the only visible part of her body. The waiters cir- cling her table kept bumping into the hat, knocking the poor thing around all night. “At least she only had to put on half the make- Michael Kors and Liza up,” Iman said. Karolina Kurkova Minnelli in The late entrance of the Dolce & Gabbana en- Gianfranco Ferré. tourage led to another round of paparazzi madness, as did Thurman’s in a stunning gown by Gaultier. “They say God is in the details,” she said in pre- senting an award to the designer. “When you take a Gaultier dress and turn it inside out, I think God would feel well served by Gaultier.” But it was Demi Moore who stole the evening as she presented Karan’s “superstar” award. Moore usually complains about her nervousness in public speaking at these events. She began with an ode to making dreams into reality, something about tenaci- ty, diversity and adversity, before pulling out a sur- prise, Karan’s 1972 recommendation letter for mem- bership in FGI, a hand-written note from her former employer, Anne Klein, which the actress read aloud: “‘Her personality is one of maturity, evenness and pleasant and courteous in every respect. Her charac- ter is one of objectivity, accomplishment and every job carried out. In addition to her accomplishment as a designer, Ms. Karan has excellent organizational skills and a fine sense of detail.’” Given Karan’s own admission that she is rarely any of the above, the letter drew a few laughs. But if she’s really heading out to the job market, at Philip Treacy and least she’s got a handy reference. Iman in Language. —EricWilson JOHN CALABRESE PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 11

Dries Van Noten at Northern Star the Carlyle Hotel.

NEW YORK — If you were to cast Dries Van Noten in a movie, the role of fashion designer would probably not be the first choice. In his comfortable-looking, chalk-striped jacket and nubby V-neck sweater — all worn with a slightly serious, yet unassuming air — the Belgian designer seems more like a natty young college pro- fessor. But in real life, a professor would probably opt for a muted forest-green sweater over the bright grassy one Van Noten wears. Van Noten was honored Thursday night at Fashion Group International’s 20th anniversary Night of Stars, along with Donna Karan, Dolce & Gabbana’s Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Jean Paul Gaultier and milliner Philip Treacy. For the occasion, he wore a smart tuxedo of his own design with an antique waistcoat from the late 1800s. However, while sitting down for an interview at the Carlyle Hotel the day before the gala — only a couple of hours fresh from the customs line at JFK — he says he feels “a bit dizzy” from the flight. “I’m really very honored to be selected for a team like this,” he says in his lilting Flemish accent. “And it’s nice to be appreciated for something you really like to do.” While the others on the list aren’t exactly shabby, it must be a sweet bit of perspective for the designer to receive accolades alongside Gaultier, whose shows Van Noten used to sneak into with coun- terfeit invitations as a young fashion student at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Art. “That was a long time ago — ’81, ’82. It was a previous life,” he laughs. “It was a lot of fun because Gaultier and all those design- ers had very creative invitations. So you had to be very clever to copy them.” One season, Gaultier’s invite took the form of a large but- ton. The closest approximation that Van Noten and his friends could source was the plastic lid of a yogurt container. “The even- ing before we left for Paris, we had 16 one- liter pots of yogurt. We were copying the invitations and eating yogurt the whole time,” he recalls. Did it pass muster? “Yes, it worked very well.” But time is a funny thing. While 1982 may seem like a previous life, 20 years can also pass in a flash. And 1985, the year that Van Noten launched his collec-

▲ A look from Spring 2004. tion in a group show of Belgian design- TURNER DAVID BY PORTRAIT ers in London can feel like yesterday. “I still really like what I am doing, and my Although he no longer needs to resort to coun- team shares the same passion,” Van terfeit invites, after his shows in Paris he hightails Spring 2004 Noten says. “It feels like we just started it back home. And why not? To hear Van Noten tell and that it’s just a bunch of old friends it, the city sounds like a fashion Eden where there who started working together recently are many designers, but since each has a strong when really, it’s like 18, 19 years.” identity, the atmosphere is one of camaraderie From his very first season, Van rather than competition. He has even helped to Noten scored orders from Barneys, finance the collections of younger Belgians, includ- Whistles in London and Pauw in ing design team AF Vandevorst and Angelo Figus. Amsterdam. He still remembers the And at AF Vandevorst’s first Paris show at the fall thrill of finding out that a Barneys buyer was collections in 1998, Van Noten sat in the front row coming in to place an order. Van Noten’s busi- along with Ann Demeulemeester and Walter Van ness, which last year did $30 million in sales, has Bierendonck, two other members of what was grown quite a bit since then, with the designer man- known in the late Eighties as the “Antwerp Six,” aging to stay self-financed all the while. While in that the group that originally put the city on the fashion context he is fiercely independent, nothing about him map. Van Noten doesn’t chafe at being categorized with the evokes the ferocity that some assume is necessary to many other Belgian designers, saying that they often trade survive in the fashion business. Instead, Van Noten is notes on stores and fabric manufacturers. “We are all col- more politely self-sufficient, so much so that while the leagues,” he says. “We really work together in that way.” corporates used to come knocking, they don’t any- In 1999, Van Noten was forced to rethink his business after more. “I think it’s clear now to everybody that we like the death of his longtime partner Christine Mathys. He was said the situation which we are in, and we are going to keep to be devastated both personally and professionally. While he it that way,” he says. “I just would not function in a situa- contemplated closing his doors, he eventually decided to stay the tion like that — with someone looking over my shoulder.” course and bought a six-story shipping warehouse to centralize Being independent has allowed Van Noten to do things his operations. Creatively, he found himself pigeonholed as a his own way, whether taking time and money to create his designer who could only do ethnic looks. He told WWD in 2000 precious fabrics or to work on side projects. While he does that he got bored “working exclusively with countries or histori- produce shoes, bags and belts, he has often said that he cal periods,” and was turning to modern art for that spark. But would never introduce a cash cow — an expanded accessories he has since made peace both with his sense of aesthetics and line or fragrance — for fear of taking the emphasis off the clothes. continuing the business without Mathys. “The whole atmosphere Even though he enjoyed designing a children’s line for several and structure of the company was built by Christine and me,” he years, he ended it in 1999 when stores started asking for things says. “It’s a very positive heritage. Fashion is a constant evolution, that weren’t quite Dries. “For me, children’s wear is like little but the heart of the company is still that.” princes and princesses,” he says. “But [stores] were asking for And even while he felt temporarily trapped by the ethnic ref- things like T-shirts that say ‘Dries Van Noten’ because that’s what erences for which he is known, Van Noten’s work has always gone the mothers were buying. I really hate things like that.” beyond copying a specific time, place or tribe, as the case may Since Van Noten is very involved in the day-to-day details of be. Instead, he is a master of the mix — layering colors, prints his collection, his visit to New York clocked in at less than 48 and textures as well as cultures and eras, both literally and figu- hours, and he admits that it took a bit of convincing on the part ratively. His recurring motifs, while drawn from his foreign trav- of his publicist to get him here. On his to-do list while here: visit els, also reflect a special blend of elements — tweedy men’s Despite his lingering reputation as a member of fashion’s the four stores which carry his line — Barneys, Jeffrey, Linda wear, romantic Victoriana and even a touch of the utilitarian. Van increasingly difficult to define avant-garde, it seems that in fact, Dresner and If — leaving time for little else. Noten’s recent spring show was packed with prints and embroi- mainstream fashion has swung his way with the current empha- Although his early collections were inspired by travels to India, deries, but he also experimented with tone-on-tone looks, a far sis on femininity and embellishment. But as with everything, he Turkey and Morocco, these days the designer stays close to his cry from his usual unexpected color combinations. “In August, calmly takes it all in stride. “I was a little bit less happy during home base in Antwerp. He says he finds his current inspiration we were panicking a bit because when you are used to getting a the minimalist period, but now people are more interested in fab- there, whether in an African woman who might wear a Western lot of effect from putting pink and green together, seeing every- rics and tradition and all these things.” he says. “Every designer raincoat over her traditional dress or in checking out the latest con- thing in white or blue-gray — you lose some of that effect,” he has his time, and then it goes away. But I know after 20 years, if temporary art. The ideas also flow while he tends to the gardens at explains. He eventually worked through the dilemma by adding you continue to do what you like, your time will come back.” the 18th-century castle that he lives in just outside the city. volume in girlish ruffles. — Meenal Mistry 12 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 X Fashion Scoops Destination Anywhere FREE RIDE: During Fashion Week, it’s usually the magazine editors and stylists reaping the goodies. Not so during Fashion is a journey and you never know where you’ll end up — Mercedes-Benz Shows LA, where a handful of designers enjoyed the use of a Mercedes-Benz CLK 500 for the week. Too bad the the Mexican Riviera, Japan or even Nantucket. privilege of driving the $60,000-plus convertible falls during the busiest, most important fashion moment in a designer’s life, Mon Petit Oiseau: Alright kids, it’s images of Japan with the vibrance of said Alicia Lawhon, one of the lucky recipients of the cars, as time to pack up the station wagon, her new colorful neighborhood. In well as a venue grant from producer 7th on Sixth. “We’ve just turn up the tunes and head off for a her collection, it translated into finished the show and now I have to get ready for market week, seaside vacation, maybe in cheerful color — lacquer red, koi so I haven’t had a chance to drive it much,” she said regretfully. Nantucket. And make sure to orange and sunshine yellows. She Her favorite part of the car so far? “The door, it’s so substantial, pack a bag of Mon Petit Oiseau mixed the kimono with the bolero so heavy, the minute I felt it, I knew I wanted one.” pieces. Designer Tracy and came up with a trim- Wilkinson has long been cropped jacket, while NO, NO ANASTACIA: “This is the only show I come to because I’m known for her charming, whispery layers of gauzy a very big fan of Daniella [Clarke],” declared songstress flirty, easy-to-wear col- chiffon were cut into Anastacia at the Frankie B. show during Mercedes-Benz Shows lections. For spring, handkerchief-hemmed LA. She’s also collaborating with the designer on “Survivor she captured the skirts. Jarick exercised a Chick” T-shirts to benefit the Anastacia Fund at the Breast carefree feeling of light touch with the Cancer Research Foundation. Having undergone treatment a fun summer gathered pleat or herself for breast cancer this year, the 30-year-old said the holiday, com- smattered bead focus of the campaign is to promote young women’s awareness plete with details, giving the of the disease. Anastacia and Clarke will design the T-shirts souvenir-style collection a together to sell at retail stores nationwide next year. No stranger buttons pinned sense of tranquil to design, Anastacia was wearing a Frankie B. denim shirt with onto little shorts optimism. a silk and gauze layered skirt she had made. But that’s as far as printed with “Je she’ll take her sartorial talents. “I’m not thinking about my own t’aime.” And she Rebecca Rich: line,” she said. kept the printed Travel by way of whimsy flowing the runway is ADVANTAGE WILLIAMS: The Williams sisters will be showing off with chubby chick- one of the great their fashion sense — as in their designs — tonight at a charity adees, exaggerated pleasures of gala in Santa Monica. As part of an annual fashion show paisleys and graph- fashion. The organized by the Women’s Tennis Association, Serena Williams ic cherry blossoms. Mexican Riviera will hit the catwalk in her new line of eveningwear, Aneres, the And she wasn’t afraid was the stop of tennis star’s first name spelled backwards, and Venus Williams to mix those patterns to- choice for Rich will model Wilson’s Leather, a brand she endorses. Jennifer gether and, when who injected Capriati and Brandy Norwood are among the celebs lined up trimmed with a ruffle or flounces of citrus to walk the runway, with Capriati’s friend, Matthew Perry, on ribbon, the effect was green or hibiscus board as emcee of the show at the Fairmont Miramar Hotel.

lovely. It was almost sad to see pink embroidery ▲ Rebecca PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI the the bright show end, but onto classic, sometimes Rich WHAT A WOMAN: Vera Wang will receive a Woman of the here’s to the promise of spring, fun proper, sundresses, A-line Year Award from Glamour magazine at its Women of holidays and that charming little skirts and tailored blouses. A the Year Awards gala, to be held Nov. 10 at the chickadee minisheath. simple sheath in magenta jersey American Museum of Natural History. Sharon was given a drapey cowl neck Stone is expected to wear a gown by the designer Heike Jarick: Watching one that plunged down to the navel when she presents her with the award. samurai movie after another while a tailored blouse was los Though Glamour’s being tight-lipped about might affect a girl’s point of gathered slightly at the bust to who the other winners are, this is the 14th Mon Petit view. That’s what happened soften the shape. Bright angeles consecutive year the magazine has staged the Oiseau when, depressed after a fire ruffles peeked out from skirts event, which has honored such personalities as destroyed her New York while her final look gave in to all-out Madonna, Hilary Rodham Clinton and Picabo Street. apartment, Heike Jarick spent weekends in her flair with a flamenco style gown in Wang, a former ice-skater, is also set to be honored new Lower East Side pad with nothing but her TV. lavender and lime. Overall, it was the right amount by the Ice Theatre of New York during the group’s annual She didn’t pay attention to the swords and fight of sweetness and spice. gala Wednesday. scenes, but rather found inspiration blending ▲ Heike Jarick

Erica Davies’ A few Butterfly Effect jackets. designs. NOM’s Moms ith babies being the newest, hottest Waccessory of late, Jennifer Noonan’s NOM maternity line has perfect timing. Short for Naissance on Melrose, the store and label serve up hip looks that even non-pregnant women could covet. For spring, handkerchief skirts, silk bandeaux, skirt-over- pants combos and dresses with that ever- In the Time of Butterflies flattering Empire waist were modeled nto every life a little fairy dust must fall. At least, that’s by pregnant women designer Hayley Starr’s philosophy. She fluttered around, Independence Day all in their seventh Isprinkling glitter over guests at Tuesday night’s Butterfly Effect or eighth month. A presentation at the Spider Club. verything about Erica Davies’ debut is a declaration of inde- very pregnant Starr is part of the design trio behind Butterfly Effect, along pendence. This is the Welsh-born Angeleno’s first solo proj- Beverly Peele took a with Darren Romanelli of the Dr. Romanelli line and Kaviar jeweler Eect after eight years of designing for Richard Tyler, Marc runway turn with daughter Katherine Azarmi. Initially Starrs’ idea, the three decided to Jacobs, Sportmax and BCBG Max Azria. Her presentation late MacKenzie, while collaborate on something that showcased their individual talents. Wednesday night at MOCA’s cavernous Geffen satellite building actresses Cheryl Hines and Thus, they came up with a line of hip leather bomber jackets in downtown’s Little Tokyo, away from the dueling fashion week Denise Richards looked on. (Romanelli’s signature) featuring anything from diamond-encrusted sites, was unique, too. In lieu of a formal show, her uncomplicat- “It’s all going so fast,” said zipper pulls (Azarmi’s jeweled details) to handpainted Seventies- ed, cool London-L.A. girl clothes were projected larger than life Richards of her own five- style beach scenes or twinkling butterflies (Starr’s touch). on a 15-foot wall. The six-minute short documentary by filmmak- months-along status. (Dad is “It’s extremely tempting since this was such a success,” said er Clement Jolin, also available as a promotional DVD, was as Charlie Sheen, of course.) Romanelli of doing another Butterfly Effect collection. “But we’re straightforward as the clothes. As a pair of models walked the She giggled as Noonan’s just going to hold tight for now and see where things take us.” red-carpeted lounge of the decaying Ambassador Hotel, former cheeky T-shirts printed with Already, since Maxfield and Naked carry all designers’ home of the legendary Coconut Grove, the lens cut to the details “Breeder” and “Got Milk?” individual lines, they preordered looks before even viewing the that define Davies’ focused 20-piece collection: the silver nail came out to the strains of Salt- line. Ten percent of all proceeds will be donated to various heads studding the low-slung back of a plum jersey halter dress; N-Pepa’s “Push It” and Tears for One of charities, including Eco, Kevin Bacon’s environmental group. the six buttons lined up on a tailored, cotton canvas jacket cuff; Fears’ classic, “Sowing the Seeds Guests at the show included Shiva Rose McDermott, stylist NOM’s Ts. nickel buttons closing an off-kilter side pocket on pants. These of Love.” Noonan also introduced a Rachel Zoe Rosenzweig and a five-month pregnant Kirsty Hume are just great, smart pieces for Miss Independents anywhere. new fragrance, Miss Mama. and her hubby Donovan Leitch, creative director of Spider Club. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 13 LVMH Intrigue About Karan Continued from page one least 18 months, speculation is mounting Donna Karan Marc Jacobs about another of its subsidiaries: Marc Jacobs. The company has firmly denied any interest in selling Jacobs, however, observers note an increasing interest by deep-pocketed investors Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou, owners of Michael Kors and Asprey & Garrard. In addition, there could be friction between Jacobs, his business partner Robert Duffy and LVMH over the strategy for the Jacobs business. Talk of a possible sale of DKI — and key executive moves — has practically consumed the industry since the bomb- shell announcement from Saks Fifth Avenue last week that Christina Johnson, its chief executive officer, had stepped down and a replacement would be an- nounced by the end of the year. Specula- tion has centered on Wilson, who has not only achieved a marked improvement in Karan’s performance, but also has told several executives on Seventh Avenue that he wouldn’t leave the company until he had an appropriate suitor for the brand in place. In another development, now that Wilson has been identified, but not “offi- cially” confirmed, as Johnson’s likely suc- cessor — Karan herself spilled the beans at the Fashion Group International benefit on Thursday — talk about his likely successor at DKI has centered on Aronsson, ceo of Marc Jacobs International and a big Wilson supporter. Moving Aronsson from Jacobs to Karan was described by top LVMH officials on Friday as “an option that is being con- sidered,” but such a move could be tricky, Jeffry Aronsson depending on whether either label is sold. Retail executives described a number of scenarios that have been discussed for memorable clashes with Wilson’s prede- Vuitton — and that the conglomerate is Kors Inc. in January and has been active- the future of the Karan and Jacobs brands cessor, Pino Brusone, the former Giorgio trying to find some way to recoup that loss ly pursuing designer businesses for the over the past week, many of which have Armani chief who lasted a year before without facing too much embarrassment. past few years. been fueled by rampant speculation among Wilson, previously president and ceo of “LVMH has been floating the idea of a As with many of the designer business- companies that are interested in acquiring the LVMH Fashion Group, America’s, was Donna Karan sale for the past 18 es that have merged into the European the brands, as well as potential applicants brought in to resolve the discord. Not only months,” one source said. “They’ve been conglomerates in the past decade, Jacobs for positions that could open up, as did Wilson stem the company’s losses — doing it in a very soft way, and many peo- is often reported to have expressed frus- Johnson’s departure at Saks will likely cre- it’s said to be on track to turn a profit this ple at LVMH, except for Yves Carcelle, trations with LVMH’s focus more on sell- ate a domino effect of job openings. year — he also forged a relationship with who did the deal, seem to be involved in ing high-ticket Louis Vuitton handbags None of the sale rumors that have Donna Karan herself and created a the process. The problem is the price. than developing his signature brand. The cropped up or the identities of potential healthy working environment at the trou- Donna Karan is a very salable company, seven-year renewal contract he signed to bidders (Liz Claiborne Inc. for Karan and bled company for the first time in years. but the price is too high, and that’s why continue as the creative director of Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou for Now, insiders are worried about what’s conversations with potential investors LVMH’s house brand, Louis Vuitton, in Jacobs) are exactly new. Remember Stroll going to happen without him. have been going nowhere. There is no 2001 was said to be tied to certain agree- and Chou grinning in the Jacobs front row The rumors about Aronsson appeared way anyone is going to shell out what ments that LVMH would step up its invest- in September? And the Karan rumors to hold water last week, as insiders at LVMH paid for it.” ment in Marc Jacobs, including the fi- came up just weeks after LVMH complet- LVMH said such a move is an option under So, several alternative scenarios have nancing of the launch of the successful ed its pricy acquisition two years ago, ap- consideration. A former attorney who come up. Liz Claiborne Inc. would be the Marc by Marc Jacobs secondary line. parently with not enough due diligence to headed Oscar de la Renta Ltd. for a natural company to buy Donna Karan, So, could LVMH be persuaded to sell recognize the poor financial shape of its decade, Aronsson moved to Marc Jacobs in considering its position in the American Marc Jacobs now, even though Jacobs’ books. Yet the heads of at least two major January following the guidance of Wilson, market and the amount of business the involvement in Louis Vuitton is viewed U.S. retailers feel there is good cause to a close friend. However, he appears to company does through its licensed DKNY as a critical component to its continued believe LVMH could be convinced to have met a similar fate as the previous ceo, collections. Plus, Claiborne has been on a success? make a deal for Marc Jacobs with Stroll Scott Bowman, who found himself working buying spree: Its ceo, Paul Charron, said Sources said Duffy and Jacobs could be and Chou, despite the French company’s in a company that had no real need for a this week that 2004 will not pass without striking on LVMH’s eagerness to trim its insistence that Jacobs is not for sale. ceo, since its business operations have long an acquisition, and Charron has often brand portfolio to broker their independ- However, its denials have since softened been dominated by Jacobs’ career-long said he doesn’t care for licensing. ence and are encouraging the conglomer- into “No comments.” business partner, Duffy, who is president. Claiborne officials didn’t comment. ate to consider a deal with Stroll, while The most surprising rumor that sur- There were numerous reports of difficul- Or there’s been talk that DKNY and Jacobs would stay on in his role at Louis faced last week was that LVMH might ties between Aronsson and the Jacobs staff, Donna Karan could be broken up and sold Vuitton. That scenario, however, has been have already made a deal to sell Donna much as there have been disagreements as parts, but that could spell the end for hindered by what sources on LVMH’s side Karan and didn’t have to report because between LVMH and Jacobs. Now that Karan’s high-end collection, which, like have described as a reluctance to deal it wouldn’t have enough material impact Wilson is likely leaving Karan, it would most high-end designer lines, has never with Stroll, even though they have already to be of note to its shareholders. make sense that Aronsson would be in line been a profit center for the company. negotiated the conglomerate’s share of According to luxury analysts, French for the top spot at Karan. “You can’t have a name like Donna Michael Kors this year. Some people have companies face no firm deadline to dis- Also, if a sale of Jacobs were indeed to Karan in so many different hands,” one said LVMH executives are intimidated by close transactions — even ones that can take place, then it would make sense to source said. “It would totally devalue the Stroll, who casts an impressive figure and affect a stock price. move Aronsson to another LVMH brand. higher-end part of the business.” apparently harbors ambitions of building Even if LVMH were to already have But what if Karan has been sold, or is Otherwise, there’s not a lot of likely his own luxury conglomerate, which could sold Karan, it would be under no obliga- about to be? The common thinking is that domestic parties with enough cash to buy someday rival the position of LVMH. tion to immediately inform the market- the move would be an opportunity for the company. Phillips-Van Heusen is still But wait, there’s more. It’s not just a place, such as what happened when it ac- Aronsson to make a contractual deal with digesting Calvin Klein Inc., Jones case of Jacobs-Karan-Wilson-Aronsson in- quired an additional stake in Fendi in LVMH, while watching the company’s op- Apparel Group would surely have issues trigue, but add in what’s been going on at the first quarter of 2002 for $218.5 mil- erations for any short-term transition. owning a designer brand that is licensed Gucci Group and executive departures at lion, yet the filing was discovered by in- Neither Aronsson nor Duffy could be to Liz Claiborne and Stroll and Chou — Anne Klein, and the possibilities have be- vestment firm HSBC in a report pub- reached for comment on Friday. according to someone who has asked come mind-boggling. John Idol, the ceo of lished in mid-May. LVMH officials refused to comment on them — reportedly responded, “No way.” Kasper A.S.L. and Anne Klein, has been ru- Asked if LVMH might be looking to sell the proceedings on Friday, nor would they Still, on the scale of rumors, Donna mored to be headed to Michael Kors as its Karan, one source said, “It’s a possibility, dispel any of the talks that a sale, at least Karan by all appearances has been up- ceo for about six months. He’s spotted daily but it’s not that sure. It’s an option. Lots of of Donna Karan, was in the works. graded from a “said to be for sale” to a in Kors’ building at 550 Seventh Avenue, yet American companies would be interested.” Insiders at Karan, bankers and stores “really for sale,” while the scenario at is still not confirmed in the position. (“No Wilson’s expected departure at Donna firmly believe that LVMH paid too much Marc Jacobs remains hopelessly more un- comment” from Kors Inc. on Friday.) Karan also has opened a number of money for the business — a $643 million decided. In that case, there’s an identifi- —With contributions from wounds for both the designer company deal — quickly brokered in December able buyer: Stroll and Chou’s Sportswear Evan Clark; Miles Socha, Paris, and the conglomerate. Karan had several 2000 by Yves Carcelle, now ceo of Louis Holdings Ltd., which bought Michael and Samantha Conti, London 14 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003

Innerwear Report

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Jonquil’s white Amourette’s white cotton voile shirt and pajamas with ivory lace trim. polyester nightgown with black lace bodice. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER; MODELS: TATYANA SIMANAVA/NEXT, AGNIESKA/SUPREME; HAIR BY KELLY GOLA FOR WARREN TRICOMI; GOLA FOR WARREN KELLY AGNIESKA/SUPREME; HAIR BY SIMANAVA/NEXT, TURNER; MODELS: TATYANA DAVID PHOTOS BY JUMP; FURNITURE FROM ABC CARPET AND HOME MIZU FOR REAL COSMETICS AT MAKEUP BY Take a look at us now…

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Innerwear Rethinking Strategies, Redoing Categories

Hanky Panky’s pink- Eberjey’s bateau print Gray cotton thermal top trimmed black mesh cotton slip. and thermal floral print cami and bikini. briefs by Woo. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY

By Karyn Monget pealing to younger consumers motional department stores With a continuing blurring of said: “November market is not and Baby Boomers. With this such as Kohl’s want to get a classifications, loungewear in that big of a market and the de- NEW YORK — This week’s mar- idea in mind, contemporary jump start on b-t-s business. particular has become an enig- livery period is in no-man’s- ket will be a time of reflection daywear continues to drive the However, a majority of depart- ma for merchants and makers. land: Mother’s Day through July. for many retailers and vendors. lion’s share of store sales, espe- ment stores are not yet ready for Laid-back active looks, includ- Deliveries are tougher because Despite a spike in retail sales cially fashion daywear items a full transition into fall. ing a variety of tops and pants, there’s a lot of markdowns and of intimate apparel, sleepwear like camis with boy-cut pants Daywear may be the flavor of have deluged a number of de- clearance on the selling floor, so and at-homewear for fall, gain- and low-rise thongs in novelty the month, but the segments that partments ranging from at- much so that we’ve tried to ing consumer confidence re- fabrics, prints and treatments. need a redo, as well as a reduc- homewear, robes and sleepwear streamline assortments and pre- mains challenging, and mer- November typically is a non- tion of inventory levels at the to exercisewear and casual sentations. Our lines are small- chants and manufacturers are eventful market, reflecting a de- wholesale and retail sectors, are sportswear. er, focused and concise.” rethinking ways to create growth livery period that coincides with the heavily promoted founda- Vendors generally believe “I believe it’s much too early incentives in established lines. storewide sales: Mother’s Day tions and underwear businesses, fashion and product innovation to show fall,” said Carole They are also looking to business through July. It’s also traditional sleepwear and are the answers to the oversatu- Hochman, chairman and design build and develop areas of op- an indecisive time for retailers loungewear, which has been ration of basic merchandise, director of the Hochman firm. “I portunity, such as young con- when it comes to back-to-school bloated with dual-purpose active primarily in the at-homewear think everything gets to the temporary merchandise that programs. Some national chains looks at every price point and category. With updated fashion stores too soon. The consumer has a strong fashion twist ap- like Sears Roebuck Co. and pro- every channel of distribution. looks, dressier, more sophisti- isn’t looking for winter clothes or cated fare appears to be key sleepwear for that matter. She’s based on strong fall sell- interested in wear-now items.” throughs, executives noted. Howard Radziminsky, sen- Jessica Mitchell, senior vice ior vice president of sales and president of sales and brand merchandising at Movie Star development at Natori Co., Inc., said: “It’s not the biggest said, “This will be a strategic open-to-buy month, but it rep- market for us, and we will be resents a change of season. talking about opportunities for The mood of retailers is pretty growth for spring as well as good and there’s a little better new ideas. We’ve been out to anticipation about what’s hap- the stores and we see where pening. We’ve had a nice spike the opportunities are to grow in daywear replenishment our businesses at stores.” items. Josie Natori, chief executive “Stores are working closer to officer, said luxe at-homewear need with delivery cycles that that is “dressier and more so- are tighter and tighter. November phisticated” has been a top-per- may be a very dull market, but re- forming classification. She said tailers have told us they’ve seen a it will be an area the company lot of new product, that the mar- will expand for fall. ket had a lot of thought and work Seth Morris, president of put in it.” Carole Hochman Designs Inc., Companies such as Richard Leeds International believe the timing is right to show early fall and b-t-s programs. Dale Darmante Holly Price, national sales manager for national chains and is NOW promotional department stores for French Jenny at the Leeds available for firm, said: “It really is a time for reflection. We’ve repositioned work in the French Jenny [sleepwear] to be much younger, but more con- temporary and sophisticated. Intimate Apparel Retailers are rethinking how they can merchandise the floors Industry. in new, creative ways.” WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 17

From Left: Necessary Objects Enters Intimate Arena David Bell; NEW YORK — International Intimates Inc. has Prices were not finalized at press time, but sug- Iris LeBron signed a licensing agreement with Necessary gested retail prices for bras are expected to be with her Objects to produce a collection of daywear, panties around $24.99, camis will go from $14.99 to $34.99 daughter, and bras bearing the Necessary Objects name. and panties will be $7 to $8. There also will be Camille; First-year wholesale sales are projected be- three-pair of panties program for $18. Barry Ross tween $2.5 million and $3 million, said René Rofé, — K.M. with his chairman and chief executive officer of daughter, International Intimates. Distribution will be Sabrina. aimed at major department and specialty stores,

as well as smaller specialty operations. However, STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY distribution will initially target doors at Nordstrom, Dillard’s and Federated Department INTIMATE NOTES 1111. He said the decor was Stores, where Necessary Objects contemporary designed to emulate the “same sportswear has a strong position, said Rofé. GOODFELLAS: More than 100 warmth and modern design details” Shipments are scheduled to begin in March. executives of the intimate apparel of the Miami flagship. “When we were looking for a license, we want- industry turned out for the annual Selected for its consistent direct ed something that was not too junior looking, a Goodfellowship Corset Club’s cocktail sunlight, the space reflects Cosabella’s name that had recognition and a strong depart- party and installation dinner at the color range with walls painted in a ment store presence,” said Rofé. “Necessary 200 Fifth Avenue Club in Manhattan. warm shade of yellow, accented with Objects was doing a new ad campaign, and when I Recipients of the 2003 Service to red, brown and natural wood textures. saw it I started talking to Bill Kaufman, Necessary the Industry Award were Iris LeBron, Aluminum and steel fixtures were Objects’ ceo.” fashion director of intimate apparel, selected to give the showroom a clean Necessary Objects, known for its young, con- swimwear and activewear at Invista finish. Special touches include temporary sportswear, is designed by Ady Gluck- Inc., and Barry Ross, president of moveable wood worktables and Frankel, the firm’s owner and creative director. Sextet Inc., a textile firm. white-cloth covered benches. Gluck-Frankel, who will have final approval of the David Bell, vice president of raw There also will be a flat screen lingerie designs, will work in tandem with materials management at Wacoal TV that will run footage from International Intimates’ Baby Padro, director of America, the U.S. division of fashion shows, clips from celebrity product development and sourcing, and Anna Wacoal Japan, was named the sightings and images of the Maria La Bianca, designer for the licensed lin- GFCC’s president for 2003-2005. collection on models. gerie. Sales will be headed by Marc Rosen, sales He succeeds Victor Vega, vice manager, and Stacey Kaufman, sales associate. president of inventory, production 2004 MARKET DATES: The Intimate “It’s very girly looking,” said Rofé, noting that and sales for Wacoal America. Apparel Council, a unit of the the contemporary intimates will feature basics, as American Apparel & Footwear well as key fashion items. COSABELLA’S NEW DIGS: Miami- Association, has announced the Fabrics will include cotton spandex, nylon based Cosabella is opening its first 2004 dates for intimate apparel spandex mesh, printed polyester chiffon, allover New York showroom today at 183 market week in New York City: lace and velvet-trimmed lace. Special effects will Madison Avenue. ● Jan. 12-16 include ribbon trim, whimsical motifs of lipsticks, Sergio Oxman, co-owner of the ● March 1-5 perfume bottles, bustiers and handbags, vintage THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY 20-year-old fashion daywear and ● May 3-7 rose prints, oversize bow and rhinestone back Top: Necessary Objects girly lingerie. sleepwear company, is calling the ● Aug. 2-6 treatments on panties, and tiered and tattered Above: Marc Rosen, Stacey Kaufman, Baby Padro, showroom The Cosabella Suite ● Nov. 1-5 chiffon accents. Anna Maria La Bianca and René Rofé with model.

Announcing…

CHELSEA DESIGN GROUP 171 Madison Avenue, Suite 1500 NewYork, NY10016 212.812.2801 18 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003

Legwear Report

NEW YORK — Spring’s happy-go-lucky attitude serves as the perfect inspiration for fun stripes in candy colors, be it over-the-knee, classic All socks or anklets. K Bell’s cotton and nylon Lined socks. Up

Cotton and nylon anklets by American Essentials.

Hot Sox’s cotton and nylon over-the-knee socks. Necessary Lulu Guinness’ Objects dress; Hurley cotton anklets. cap; Dollhouse shoes.

Hanes Stepz’s sheer nylon and spandex anklets. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICSON. MODEL: EVA/NEXT. STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY STYLED BY ERICSON. MODEL: EVA/NEXT. KYLE PHOTOS BY

20 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003

Accessories Report Juicy Squeezes Into Jewelry, Handbags

By Melanie Kletter in an interview last week. While Juicy apparel has long flaunted labels saying “Made NEW YORK — Cult contemporary brand Juicy Couture is in the Glamorous U.S.A.,” the handbags and jewelry are pro- bringing its candy-colored vision into accessories for spring, duced overseas, said a company spokeswoman. with the launch of handbags and fashion jewelry. Bucciarelli said while no buyers had seen the collection The baubles and bags, which are being shown to retailers yet, Liz plans to distribute Juicy accessories in the same this week, are made internally by the accessories division of stores where the apparel is sold, including Bloomingdale’s, Leather clutches come in a variety of colors. Liz Claiborne Inc., which purchased Juicy last spring and is Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys New facilitating the brand’s growth into a lifestyle powerhouse York, as well as specialty stores such as Scoop and Fred with an array of categories bearing its name. Segal. While LCI sells some of its apparel in that channel, “The bags and the jewelry are the extension of the Juicy it’s a new tier for the accessories division, which generally philosophy, which is fashion in a fun kind of way,” said sells merchandise in stores such as Macy’s and Lord & Pamela Skaist-Levy, Juicy’s co-founder and co-president Taylor, as well as J.C. Penney and Kohl’s with its lower- along with Gela Taylor, who noted that this was the first cate- priced brands. gory that Juicy hasn’t produced itself. “The Juicy girl loves Bucciarelli declined to give sales projections for the first things that match, so the accessories work together with our line of Juicy accessories except to say it is expected to be a other offerings.” significant launch. Last year, Juicy had overall sales of $47 The pastel and sherbet-colored handbags are made of fab- million. The brand has recently added men’s and children’s rics including terry cloth — a signature Juicy material — apparel, as well as categories such as outerwear and cash- leather and canvas. Silhouettes include bowling bags and mere sweaters, and company executives have spoken of oversize totes, small barrel bags, clutches, a cosmetics bag bringing the brand into areas like cosmetics, eyewear and and even a dog carrier, as well as a plastic oversize bag de- footwear. signed for the beach that comes with two terry cloth towels. The decision to take Juicy into accessories mirrors a strat- Many bags are made in terry cloth — a Juicy favorite. The jewelry includes gold-plated charm bracelets and egy Liz Claiborne has used for many of its recent acquisi- oversize rings, as well as chain-link belts, ankle bracelets, toe tions, which is to buy a brand and then add other categories rings and earrings, much of it made with brightly colored via its internal accessories division. Claiborne rolled out cubic zirconia. The jewels come in special packaging consist- Ellen Tracy handbags and jewelry for fall, and Lucky Brand ing of a black box lined with blue terry cloth, and each box accessories were introduced for the back-to-school period has a Juicy crest both outside and inside the box. Wholesale this year. prices range from about $60 to $200 for handbags and $20 to Claiborne also makes handbags for Sigrid Olsen, and jew- $105 for jewelry. elry under that label is slated to bow next fall. In 2002, nonap- Ed Bucciarelli, president of Liz Claiborne’s accessories di- parel sales, which comprise jewelry and handbags, as well as vision, said his team worked closely with Skaist-Levy and cosmetics, increased 3.1 percent to $511.6 million and ac- Taylor to develop the collections, with company executives counted for 13.8 percent of overall sales of $3.72 billion. flying back and forth to Southern California to show them The Juicy Couture accessories showroom is located in the handbag and jewelry samples. new downstairs portion of Claiborne’s accessories showroom TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY “We have worked to stay true to the Juicy brand,” he said at 1441 Broadway in New York. Charms are a key part of the jewelry line. Photo: Igor Perchuk

800.772.0418 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 21 Prada’s Car Shoe Shifts Into High Gear MILAN — Two years after acquiring Car Stefano Cantino, commercial director Car Shoe is adding received for its balance between glamour Shoe, Prada is spicing up the footwear label of Car Shoe, said it was the right moment handbags for spring. and classicism, and for its bourgeois style with a full-fledged women’s shoe collection to expand the product offering and take that corresponds to American expecta- and the launch of handbags for next spring. the company in a different direction after tions,” said Cantino. Traditionally known for its classic peb- two years of extensive restructuring. In addition to two brand boutiques in ble-sole driving shoe, which was trade- “A difficult economy mustn’t stop the Milan and Capri, Car Shoe is available at marked in the Sixties, the new collections development of a company. That’s exactly 200 sales points around the world. Cantino include soft suede shoulder handbags in when one must seize the right opportuni- added the company is aiming at reaching vibrant wisteria or lobster hues; sneakers ties for expansion,” said Cantino. 350 sales points by the end of next year. and flat bags with silver or gold touches Cantino said the women’s division cur- “We want to maintain this brand in a and laced-up details; hammered calf-skin rently accounts for 40 percent of sales, niche segment of the market, and keep the open mules with wooden soles in bright which, compared with 2001, have grown artisan and handmade craftsmanship,” apple-green or purple, and bicolored bal- sixfold to $3.6 million. said Cantino. In the medium-term, the com- lerinas in white and muted pastels. In the U.S., the shoes and handbags pany plans to open another boutique in Each group revolves around three have already been picked up by Neiman Italy and one elsewhere in Europe, though main Car Shoe staples, which have been Marcus, Barneys New York, Fred Segal, the region hasn’t been determined yet. reinterpreted by the company’s design Bergdorf Goodman, Louis Boston and Retail prices range from $240 for a team: the pebble-soles, the bows that Janet Brown, among others. thong sandal up to $385 for a medium-size embellish the shoes and the rings, which “We are happy with the development handbag.

are a reference to sailing. in the U.S., where the line has been well PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI — Luisa Zargani

A NICE RING TO IT: Chloé Sophia Loren, Jean has its hands full with its Shrimpton, Lauren Hutton FINDINGS handbag business these and Brooke Shields, shot A Rosier Outlook at Silmo days. Creative director Phoebe Philo scored an by the likes of Edward instant hit when she showed handbags along Steichen, Horst, Chris PARIS — Sporty styles tempered with fashion touches dominated the with her first collection for spring 2002: the von Wangenheim, trends at the Silmo eyewear trade show at the Porte de Versailles here. bracelet bag. Richard Avedon and Herb Buyers shopping for spring and summer merchandise said strictly Chloé declined to disclose unit sales to date, Ritts. The 272 pages are technical frames, which were a big hit last year, were toned down this sea- but said its sell-throughs have been above 85 peppered with quotes from son for a more stylish look. The show ended its four-day run Oct. 20. percent in some stores. Retail prices legendary fashion “The sporty and grungy streetwear look has become run-of-the-mill. Now range from $840 to $1,200. Just editors Edna people are looking for sporty, but chic and comfortable [styles] above all,” wrapping up sales for spring 2004, Woolman Chase, said Oleg Rabinovich, owner of the Artsee eyewear boutique in New York. Chloé president Ralph Toledano said Carmel Snow and Pascal Jaulent, president of exhibitor Face-à-Face, a French eyewear handbags are tracked to account for Diana Vreeland, manufacturer, said, “Sporty designs are still stylish, however the focus is more than 25 percent of sales, and James Galanos changing from purely technical sports frames toward a more dynamic and “which is a lot since we are coming and the late energetic look.” from zero,” he noted. Eleanor Lambert Meanwhile, buyers said business over the last year has been difficult. Most Toledano attributed the rapid wrote the noted that they are not planning to increase their budgets for the upcoming season. success to Philo’s ability to closely introduction. “It’s been a tough spring for everyone in eyewear; however, we are here to link the spirit of the Chloé ready-to- “Tiffany in place orders,” said Andrea Lenton, director of merchandising for King wear and accessories. Chloé initially Fashion” is Optical Group, the Canadian optical chain. sold the handbags only to its ready- Loring’s 15th book “Things have been difficult, but there is light at the end of the tunnel, to-wear clients, but for spring 2004 Clockwise from top: and will be especially for the high-end will expand its distribution to include published this optical industry, which has Hiro’s 1962 image A new look by accessory-only corners, for a total of about 250 of Jean month. more of an economy-proof points of sale worldwide. One corner recently clientele,” added Artsee’s Face-à-Face. Schlumberger’s opened in the Printemps flagship on STEPPING OUT: Rabinovich. Boulevard Hausmann, and others are dolphin clip in Eugenia Kim is As the global economy planned for Galeries Lafayette in “Tiffany in Fashion,” known for her struggles to get back on its Paris and Harrods and Harvey the book’s cover, madcap cloches and feet, buyers hoped to spark sales by introducing bright colors and pastels Nichols in London. Eugenia Kim’s cat fedoras, and now the into their spring eyewear assortment. Toledano said the line has also shoe and Chloé’s downtown milliner “There is a lot more color than last year,” said King Optical’s Lenton. been expanded with entry-level, bracelet bag. can add cobbler to “Styles in eyewear and apparel follow a similar pattern. However, eye- logo-driven bags in canvas, to her résumé. wear can’t embrace color quite as easily as the apparel industry is doing.” help it expand in the Kim just launched a 12-piece shoe collection “There is a mix of bright colors and pastels,” Rabinovich said. “Fuchsia department store channel. Prices for spring that follows a whimsical approach similar and lime green will be particularly popular.” for these range from $470 to $615. Top-booking to her hats. For instance, some stiletto tips are Headlining optical trends next season is a shift away from rimless styles. styles for spring include Philo’s “camera” bag in designed to resemble a cartoon-like dog or cat “Minimal frames are evolving into larger frames,” said Lenton. “It’s a metallic leather, her banana-shaped “hobo” in metal motif, D’Orsay pumps feature cigarette-like natural process toward color when there has been an absence of it.” mesh and a new beaded version of the bracelet. snakeskin heels, and one style has the words from “Frames are getting much bigger and therefore much more visible,” a Jack Kerouac poem — “Bee, why are you staring said buyer Rick Allsopp, a director of Trent Nathan Eyewear, a retailer TIFFANY’S FASHION MOMENTS: Tiffany & Co. design at me, I am not a flower” — geometrically based in Milperra, Australia. director John Loring’s newest book, “Tiffany in embroidered from the left to the right of each shoe. Exhibitors and buyers agreed the new design directions should boost the Fashion: A Study of American Fashion and Fashion Retail prices range from $295 for leather trend of consumers wardrobing eyewear as opposed to just owning one frame. Photography” (Harry N. Abrams Inc.) is a tribute to Mondrian-style mules and slides to $425 for “Most of our customers change frames like they change their clothing,” said the last 70 years in American fashion — and the round-toe patent kitten heel shoes. Kim plans to Patrick Hoet, designer for Theo, an Antwerp, Belgium-based manufacturer. venerable Fifth Avenue jeweler’s part in the evolution. sell the collection to specialty stores nationwide, Organizers cited a record attendance of 40,488, up from 37,716 the pre- It features about 250 images of Tiffany jewels and first- year sales projections are approximately vious year. on celebrities and models like Elizabeth Taylor, $1 million. — Emilie Marsh 22 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003

Fine Jewelry Report Sector Regroups for Growth Backing Dancers’ Next Career Moves By Luisa Zargani NEW YORK — Movado sponsored the ninth MILAN — Sector Group is quickly becom- annual Career Transition for Dancers Gala, ing the next watch powerhouse. which supports dancers ready to move on to Over the past two years, the Italian their next careers, on Oct. 27. watchmaker has signed licenses with a Held at the City Center in New York, the range of fashion houses such as Roberto gala was themed Gotta Dance: A Dance Cavalli, Moschino, Valentino, United Tribute to Hollywood, and featured 14 per- Colors of Benetton and Mariella Burani. formances with highlights including Sweet In addition, the company makes its own Charity’s Big Spender by Bebe Neuwirth Sector line, as well as the PZero line for and Ann Reinking and Swan Lake’s Act III giant tire manufacturer Pirelli, and the Pas de Deux by The Royal Ballet’s Alina more classic, high-end Philip Watch line. Cojocaru and Johan Kobborg. Special “Our goal is to become the Luxottica awards were given to Fayard Nicholas, Cyd of timepieces,” said Enrico Ceccato, Charisse, Turner Entertainment Co. and the chief executive of Sector Group, in a re- late Donald O’Connor. cent interview here. “It makes sense for Movado to support This week, Sector is debuting its array not only dance companies and performanc- of new watches in New York, marking the es, but to also make a contribution to sup- first time most U.S. retailers have seen porting the dancers and their lives after its products. The company is in the their dance careers have come to an end,” process of developing its U.S. division, said Gedalio “Gerry” Grinberg, chairman of which will be based in Los Angeles and Movado Group. called Quadrante — which means “dial” Among those attending the event were in Italian. The business here will be Mary Tyler Moore, Esther Williams, Rosie overseen by Mary Swan Lewis and Perez, Marge Champion, Donald Saddler Walter Sim, both of whom were previous- and Lynn Redgrave. ly with the Swatch Group. A party cele- “A dancer’s active life span is a finite pe- brating the new direction of the company riod of time,” said Neuwirth at the dinner at is planned for Wednesday night at the Sector Group now makes watches for designers. Here, styles for Valentino, left, and Roberto Cavalli. Cipriani 42nd Street that followed the per- Bryant Park Hotel in New York, where formances. “Many train in such an intensive key executives are expected to attend. sales over the past year, the designer through the Sector Group retail between way that when they find they have to stop, Lewis said the company is targeting watch segment reported 28 to 30 percent about $200 and $700 and are made of ma- they are at sea. It’s right that we help.” fashion-forward retailers in the U.S. growth in that period. “Customers now terials such as stainless steel, silver and — Marc Karimzadeh such as Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus tend to view watches as accessible acces- leather. The bulk of offerings have quartz and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as sories, worn to complete an outfit or to movements, and some are adorned with Tourneau. This month, Bergdorf suit their mood,” said Ceccato, adding stones such as turquoise, onyx and Goodman will open a PZero corner and that 85 percent of designer-branded Swarovski crystal. Ceccato said it was display the line’s clothing, footwear watches are purchased by women, easier to work with those designers who and watch collections in its win- while men are generally more understand that these are accessories po- dows for most of the month. focused on mechanical details sitioned between costume and fine jewel- “Sector Group has inno- and function. “This trend is ry and whose prices should not be higher vative design and we inter- changing, though, and than $700. Among the brands Sector pret the designer brands younger men are increas- Group competes with at this price point into watches,” said Lewis ingly attracted to more are Michele, Burberry, TechnoMarine last week as she pre- of-the-moment time- and Gucci, said Lewis. pared for the U.S. pieces,” he noted. “Many designers aim to place their launch. For most of the branded watch collection in the high-end The Sector watch brands Sector is working range of the market, but customers in brand already existed with, this is their first en- that range are very conservative and when the investment fund, tries into the watch arena, would rather turn to classic Swiss-brand- Opera, backed by Bulgari, which has seen an influx of ed watchmakers or to jewelry houses,” took control of the group in new brands in recent years, Ceccato noted. July 2001. “The group was finan- including big names such as He said Sector is containing costs by cially troubled, but we realized that Enrico Louis Vuitton. Sector’s design outsourcing components in the Far East the Sector brand had a lot of poten- Ceccato team is headed by Franco Bosisio, and Eastern Europe, and assembling tial and that we could turn the com- the group’s art director, who pre- them in Switzerland, although some pany into a producer for designer watch- viously worked at Damiani and Swatch. styles are completely Swiss made. es,” said Ceccato. He expects 2003 sales Bosisio works closely with designers so Sector joins a crowded field that is domi- to reach about $117.3 million, a 30 per- their respective lines reflect their nated by big conglomerates such as cent increase compared with last year. ready-to-wear collections and feature Compagnie Financière Richemont AG, (Dollar figures are converted from the distinctive brand elements: the Swatch Group and more recently, LVMH euro at current exchange rates.) Sector’s Valentino V and more romantic and Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Nonetheless, watches now account for about 14 per- feminine touches detailing the couturi- executives feel there is room for its offerings. cent of market share in Italy, according to er’s line, and the heart-shaped pendants “We bring fashion and innovative de- information provided by Lewis. or the symbol of peace decorating the sign to designer watches, ” said Lewis. Bebe Neuwirth Ceccato noted that although the watch Moschino line, for example. and Gerry Grinberg

— With contributions PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER industry has suffered a 9 percent drop in Most of the fashion brands sold from Melanie Kletter

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GENUINE SINCE 1937 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 23 D&G Launch Scent at Saks Simon-Taubman War NEW YORK — Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana made a grand entrance on the cosmetics Takes Its Toll on Both floor of Saks Fifth Avenue’s Man- hattan flagship Thursday after- By Ross Tucker next nine months. In anticipa- noon. They were there to mark tion of the ruling’s impact, Simon the launch of their new fra- NEW YORK — An exhaustive took a $6 million special item grance, called Sicily, in the de- and ultimately fruitless takeover charge during the quarter. sign duo’s first U.S. public ap- bid coupled with a court’s ruling For the nine months to date, pearance for a scent in 11 years against the company pushed earnings fell 43.5 percent to of creating fragrances. Simon Property Group to mixed $148.2 million, or 78 cents, from And while some may have third-quarter results. $262.1 million, or $1.47, last year. thought hot anticipation of the Meanwhile, demonstrating Funds from operations for the event drew the fire department that a good defense doesn’t nine months jumped 17 percent to the store, it was actually a come cheaply, its takeover tar- to $564 million, or $2.78 a share, faulty sprinkler head, one fire- get, Taubman Centers, endured from $482.4 million, or $2.51 a man said. In any event, a corps of Peter Suen, Gianluca Castagnetta, Giovanni Sgariboldi and Claudio Tenan. heavy losses during the period. share, last year. Revenue in- cameras faced the designers, For the three months ended creased 8.8 percent to $1.67 bil- who were seated behind a table Europe and the U.S. tions, “it’s doing as well as we Sept. 30, Indianapolis-based lion from $1.53 billion last year. on the main floor — flanked by Martin called the designers thought it would.” Simon said earnings fell 27.5 per- Management also upped its models — as bottle-wielding pa- “icons” and acknowledged Dolce U.S. plans call for Sicily to cent to $42.7 million, or 22 cents profit guidance for the full year, trons shuffled past. & Gabbana is a big brand with reach full distribution in 1,000 a diluted share. Comparatively, expecting earnings per share in The appearance was expect- Saks. “[It’s] growing very rapidly, doors. Industry sources have pro- the company reported earnings the range of $1.41 to $1.44 and ed to drive sales above $30,000 like wildfire,” he said at a lunch jected that first-year retail sales of $59 million, or 32 cents, in the funds from operations per share at retail for the three-day period here could reach $12 million. same period last year. of between $4 and $4.03. through Saturday, according to A very optimistic Ruscio was However, funds from opera- For the three months ended industry sources. cautious about predicting tions, the more widely recog- Sept. 30, Bloomfield Hills, Mich.- There was no shortage of top BEAUTY BEAT whether or not Sicily would be nized performance indicator for based Simon recorded a net loss executives on the list of atten- Dolce & Gabbana’s biggest scent. real estate investment trusts, of $10.2 million, or 21 cents a dilut- dees. Giovanni Sgariboldi, presi- for the designers prior to their ap- “It could be,” she acknowledged, rose 2.7 percent to $190 million, ed share, compared with earnings dent and chief executive officer pearance. “They made me want to “but it’s going to be hard to beat or 93 cents a diluted share, of $1.8 million, or 3 cents, last year. of licensee Euroitalia, was joined leave and head to Sicily,” he said Light Blue.” She noted that can- against $184.7 million, or 93 Funds from operations slid by export manager Claudio of the store’s Dolce & Gabbana nibalization of Light Blue has not cents, last year. 26.1 percent to 34 cents against 46 Tenan, Gianluca Castagnetta and windows, but “my colleagues said been seen and that its perform- Total revenues climbed 4.7 cents last year. Excluding costs the company’s Hong Kong dis- I’ve got to stick around.” ance continues to be “fantastic.” percent to $566.6 million from related to the attempted takeover, tributor, Peter Suen. “We always have high expec- Looking ahead, Sgariboldi $541.1 million last year. funds from operations met con- According to a statement, sensus estimates of 41 cents. costs associated with the bid Revenue improved 1.5 per- It’s a huge launch for Dolce and Gabbana and all of the for Taubman totaled $10.5 mil- cent, reaching $168.4 million “ lion, translating to a loss of 4 from $166 million last year. elements of the brand — the fragrance, the product, the cents a share. Fighting off Simon’s hostile The company also let pass an takeover bid cost the firm $6 mil- advertising — everything is at the highest level. opportunity to submit its own lion during the quarter. Robert — Giovanni Sgariboldi,” Euroitalia recommendations to the Taub- Taubman, president and chief ex- man board, effectively ending ecutive officer, said during a com- R. Brad Martin, chairman tations when we have a launch spoke of developing Sicily into a any involvement in the company. pany conference call that the firm and chief executive officer of like this,” said Walters, who is larger subbrand within the Dolce Results for the quarter were spent $25 million battling Simon. Saks Inc., and senior beauty ex- senior vice president and gener- & Gabbana stable, with addition- further hampered by a U.S. Dis- For the nine months the com- ecutives Deborah Walters and al merchandise manager for al products that reflect a trict Court of Minnesota ruling pany recorded a loss of $30.5 Kate Oldham were some of the Saks. She added that Sicily Mediterranean feel and “flavor against the company regarding million, or 60 cents, compared retailers present. Connie Ruscio could become one of the retail- of the land” of Sicily. “We’re its 1999 restructuring transaction with a loss of $831,000, or 3 cents, of Fragrances Exclusive, D&G’s er’s top fragrances. “At least top going to do a full stream of things involving Mall of America part- a year ago. distributor, was also present, as five; that’s our expectation.” under the name Sicily,” he said. nerships. As reported, the court Revenue for the year jumped was Jean Hoehn Zimmerman, ex- Sicily is “doing very nicely” “[It is] a land very much liked by ruled that Triple Five, the com- 10.8 percent to $518.8 million ecutive vice president of market- in three weeks of pre-sell, said the designers and they really pany behind the founding and from $468.2 million last year. ing and sales for parent Chanel. Oldham, divisional merchandise want to do something to expose development of the massive mall, Earnings for the year are ex- When asked if he believed manager for fragrances. She that name.” now has the right to purchase a pected to be between 24 cents Sicily could become Dolce & noted that, given high expecta- — Matthew W. Evans 27.5 percent interest within the and 45 cents. Gabbana’s biggest fragrance, Sgariboldi replied, “It’s difficult to say now. It’s going to be one of the most important Dolce & Gabbana fragrances for sure,” he contin- IT’S ALL ABOUT THE PACKAGING ued. “My first impression [is that] sales results are very satisfying. It’s a huge launch for Dolce and Gabbana and all of the elements of the brand — the fragrance, the product, the advertising — every- thing is at the highest level.” Euroitalia executives cited the U.K. as one of the strongest markets so far, while also men- monsac.com 888.9.MONSAC tioning France and Italy. Sgariboldi added that the last decade has spawned at least four “international successes” for the design duo. He especially cited the 2001 entry, Light Blue, which he called a “huge success” inter- nationally, particularly in Japan,

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Financial Kmart Spring Orders Concern Suppliers Weekly Stock Index 52-Week Sales Amt High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change Continued from page 4 and product development for Last month it unveiled a new Broadline Retailers her firm had more questions women’s wear but suppliers say marketing campaign, which fea- 14.59 3.37 Bon-Ton Stores 14.9 7605 12.98 -1.38 than answers for the retailer: she has assumed some of the re- tures snippets highlighting Joe “We don’t know what the prod- sponsibilities previously held by Boxer, Thalía and Martha Stewart. 20.17 12.32 Dillard’s 30.6 21675 16.17 0.44 uct development team does, who the departed Lewis. Ed Nakfoor, a retail consultant 47.93 23.51 Federated 20.5 82121 47.55 1.63 to contact there, how long it Kmart, meanwhile, is await- who works not far from the dis- 4.00 0.94 Gottschalks - 1605 3.72 -0.13 takes for them to make a deci- ing completion of new offices counter’s headquarters, observed: 25.55 15.57 J.C. Penney 20.2 120950 23.65 -0.80 sion and whether, maybe, we here for the product develop- “Kmart still hasn’t created any 28.20 17.81 May Dept. Stores 16.8 55221 27.96 1.62 should make our pitches direct- ment team, which sources said sense of its relevance to the con- 5.88 1.48 Retail Ventures - 6017 5.66 0.59 ly to the team. The buyers didn’t is in the Chelsea district. sumer. So what if I can get funky 14.17 6.66 Saks 34.1 24975 13.90 0.70 have any answers. I don’t know The Kmart spokeswoman, un- Joe Boxer and Martha Stewart? what that means for the buyers.” able to confirm the location, How are those brands relevant to 52.97 18.25 Sears 10.7 149395 52.63 4.04 The Kmart spokeswoman de- said, “Kmart Holding Corp. has me? The retailer still has to have 41.80 25.60 Target 21.4 180425 39.74 1.36 clined to provide additional infor- signed a lease for approximately some big brands. Kudos to Kohl’s 60.20 46.25 Wal-Mart 30.3 322332 58.95 0.84 mation about the group operating 6,000 square feet of office space for its deal with Estée Lauder. I out of New York, but a source said in lower Manhattan that will be would like to see Kmart do some- Softline Retailers that the new “20-person team” will used by a design and trend team, thing like that,” he said. 36.67 17.05 Ann Taylor 19.9 20795 35.80 1.30 be responsible for placing orders reporting to Lisa Schultz.” If Kmart does have a strategy, and that “part of its focus is to iden- Some, though certainly not all, it certainly isn’t telling anyone, 2.91 0.68 Bluefly - 11575 2.60 0.25 tify trends and then make sure the of the confusion can be traced to observed apparel industry con- 22.26 15.40 Burlington Coat 14.9 2146 21.45 0.83 right product is on the store Kmart’s previously stated goals of sultant Emanuel Weintraub. 6.80 2.70 Charming Shoppes 23.7 18493 6.58 0.23 shelves to reflect those trends.” doing more offshore sourcing and “Kmart hasn’t yet come for- 38.39 16.75 Chico's FAS 40.4 45019 37.54 2.73 Also working with a more in- developing more proprietary ward with a clearly defined 16.03 12.20 Dress Barn 53.9 5565 14.15 0.30 depth focus on women’s apparel products, such as the Joe Boxer strategy of how it is going to sur- 18.20 9.28 Foot Locker 15.9 56394 17.90 0.85 these days is Kathy Douglas. and Thalía collections that it vive sandwiched between Target According to the spokeswoman, hopes can duplicate the success and Wal-Mart. It appears that 21.29 11.40 Gap 21.0 240151 19.08 0.93 Douglas has been on staff at it’s had with Martha Stewart. this company is on life support. 71.70 46.18 Kohl’s 29.8 196629 56.07 3.70 Kmart for 18 years working in Skeptics continue to believe, If that plan never materializes, 18.50 10.88 Limited Brands 15.5 73094 17.60 0.61 the field and as a buyer. Douglas’ however, that the retailer has an Kmart is in a long-term terminal 48.60 25.90 Neiman Marcus Group 17.9 6019 47.55 1.50 title remains director of trend uphill battle. condition,” he said. 31.23 15.00 Nordstrom 24.1 42111 30.49 0.80 24.22 10.15 Pacific Sunwear 28.4 70184 23.08 1.28 53.79 32.58 Ross Stores 18.6 48134 50.10 -1.29 8.40 6.02 Syms - 265 6.70 0.11 38.65 22.00 Talbots 16.7 12056 32.87 0.17 Columbia Net Bounds in Quarter 22.08 15.54 TJX 20.6 110742 20.99 0.32

NEW YORK — Columbia Sports- was up 21.9 percent to $46.2 mil- tween 4 and 6 percent, while Vendors wear Co. managed double-digit lion, and accessories increased sales are projected to gain 14 to 63.67 47.08 Alberto Culver 22.6 15288 63.40 1.19 gains in earnings and sales for 13.2 percent to $18.9 million. 16 percent. both the third-quarter and year- Tim Boyle, president and chief For the nine months, income 68.50 47.76 Avon 26.7 72889 67.96 0.84 to-date periods. executive officer, said in a state- shot up 19.8 percent to $87.9 mil- 22.19 13.65 Cherokee 12.1 1097 20.00 0.80 In the three months ended ment, “Our better-than-expected lion, or $2.17 a diluted share, from 36.75 14.00 Coach 39.3 81229 35.47 1.82 Sept. 30, income jumped 11.8 per- third-quarter sales and earnings $73.4 million, or $1.83, last year. 59.39 31.55 Columbia Sportswear 19.9 9509 58.24 2.72 cent to $63.6 million, or $1.56 a di- resulted from exceptional sales Sales increased 15.9 percent to 30.75 17.10 Del Laboratories 12.0 1118 24.51 -0.32 luted share, from $56.9 million, or growth in our sportswear product $694.4 million from $599 million. 38.75 25.40 Estée Lauder 28.6 54009 37.39 1.11 $1.42, a year ago. Sales gained category, the continued develop- —Vicki M. Young 12.6 percent to $373.4 million ment of our footwear product cat- 29.00 15.95 Fossil 20.9 10031 26.87 1.97 from $331.5 million. egory and the sustained sales mo- Biggest Percentage Changes 12.00 4.62 G-III 18.0 164 11.72 0.75 For the quarter, the company mentum of our brands in key in- For Week Ending October 31 99.80 83.91 Gucci 31.0 6738 86.18 -0.15 reported sales gains across its ternational markets. Gainers Close Change 12.92 3.30 Guess - 16377 11.80 0.55 business divisions: outerwear The firm raised fourth-quarter Russell Corp. 18.28 13.97 37.65 25.61 Jones Apparel 13.5 75372 34.50 2.29 rose 3.2 percent to $220.9 mil- and full-year guidance based on Tommy Hilfiger 14.69 11.71 38.34 22.65 Kellwood 41.3 6986 37.37 0.94 lion; sportswear skyrocketed 36.7 its outlook. Fourth-quarter in- Retail Ventures 5.66 11.64 31.40 18.55 Kenneth Cole 18.7 14933 29.60 1.60 percent to $86 million; footwear come is expected to grow be- Bluefly 2.60 10.64 38.90 26.23 Liz Claiborne 14.8 80611 36.89 0.14 PVH 17.14 8.48 7.40 3.40 Mossimo 7.5 4675 5.00 0.04 Losers Close Change 24.53 16.20 Movado 14.0 752 24.05 0.87 Bon-Ton Stores 12.98 -9.61 71.65 22.01 Oxford 23.0 1435 68.50 1.29 Revlon 2.63 -5.40 17.23 11.16 Phillips-Van Heusen 14.8 5364 17.14 1.34 NEW YORK’S PREMIER Gottschalks 3.72 -3.38 J.C. Penney 23.65 -3.27 31.10 18.40 Polo Ralph Lauren 16.4 8800 30.40 1.76 ADDRESS FOR FASHION Ross Stores 50.10 -2.51 19.55 11.73 Quiksilver 16.8 20697 17.17 0.67 4.60 2.40 Revlon - 3774 2.63 -0.15 ACCESSORIES. 21.15 14.94 Russell Corp. 13.5 14069 18.28 2.24 4.90 2.45 Tarrant Apparel - 316 3.94 0.02 15.24 5.61 Tommy Hilfiger 8.8 41531 14.69 1.54 12.00 3.78 Tropical Sportswear - 2765 4.59 0.15 44.08 32.62 VF Corp. 12.7 22633 42.45 0.06 17.93 8.80 Warnaco - 14858 17.45 0.89

Textiles 6.15 2.02 Delta Woodside - 140 2.05 0.00 0.08 0.02 Galey & Lord - 461 0.02 0.00 12.30 2.25 Guilford Mills - 33 12.30 0.20 7.37 4.25 Unifi - 7537 4.99 -0.03

WWDStock Market Index for the Week Ending October 31

Composite: 119.22 Broadline Stores: 119.84 Softline Stores: 120.53

366 Fifth Avenue Owner-Managed For information regarding availabilities, contact Richard 2.65 2.38 4.94 J. Brickell/Tim Farrell (212) 889-7460. Or go to our website SEZ : at www.jpday.com. Defend Your Spirit Sweaters and Knits Vendors: 115.55 Textiles: 93.81 1410 Broadway Index base of 100 is A COMPLETE REAL ESTATE SERVICE Suite 304 keyed to closing prices New York NY 10018 JOSEPH P.DAY REALTY CORP. phone: 212-719-0007 of Dec. 31, 2002. Member of the Real Estate Board of New York, Inc. fax: 212-719-0143 1.83 -0.13 email: [email protected] WWD DNR The Keynoters CE Karl Lagerfeld OSUMMIT Burton M. Tansky President and CEO, Neiman Marcus Group Barry Diller Chairman and CEO, InterActiveCorp Jeffrey P. Bezos Founder and CEO, Amazon.com Inc. Bruce J. Klatsky Chairman and CEO, Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. Diane Von Furstenberg Diane Von Furstenberg Studio LP Michael Kors Michael Kors LLC Lawrence Stroll Co-Chairman, Sportswear Holdings Ltd. Fabien Baron Creative Director and Owner, Baron & Baron Inc. Heinz Krogner Group CEO and Deputy Chairman, Esprit Holdings Ltd. Wilbur L. Ross, Jr. Chairman, International Steel Group Chairman and CEO, W.L. Ross & Company LLC Jack Mitchell Chairman and CEO, Mitchells/Richards Jed Petrick President and Chief Operating Officer, The WB

will WWD|DNR CEO Retail|Apparel Summitdoıt.November 5 –7 The Ritz-Carlton, Battery Park, New York City For information, call (212) 630-4779 or e-mail [email protected]

We thank the following sponsors: 26 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003

Customer service supervisor to $50K. Current exp. in apparel co. required. Exp. supervising others. Trouble-shoot retailers problems + con- firmation of goods shipped. Excell/AS 400 profi- cient. Fax: 973-379-1275 Jaral Fashion Agcy DATA ENTRY Children’s apparel importer seeks effi- cient individual to perform data entry on overseas factory orders for Produc- tion Dept. Must be computer literate (Excel knowledge a plus). Fax resume to 646-452-5152, Attn: Production Mgr. DESIGN ASSISTANT Major apparel company seeks individual to act as liaison between design and production. Responsibilities include assisting designers with concepts/ layouts, pricing inquiries and complet- ing production packages. Must have knowledge of Photoshop and/or Illustrator. Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Design Associate "ONE TUFF BABE" Progressive Jr / Girls’ Jeanswear Co. seeks an exp’d. design associate. Must have computer skills & import exp. Fax resume to: Jerry 917-342-9001 DESIGN

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Custom-made Bridalwr 212-629-4808 Call CLOTHES-OUT: research; negotiating best product quality at lowest cost and Designers/Merchandisers PATTERNS, SAMPLES, (937) 898-2975 best terms; managing all product fit, quality and consumer to Senior Level PRODUCTIONS satisfaction metrics; and working closely with Marketing Established mid-town intimate and Management to achieve aggressive profit goals. loungewear company seeks experienced All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. merchandisers/designers for private Call Sherry 212-719-0622. label programs and new licensed line. You will have a Bachelor’s degree and/or 7+ years experi- Proven ability to develop focused as- PATTERNS/SAMPLES Velour-Fleece French Terry Lycra+reg ence in sourcing both domestic and international markets, sortments with an emphasis on prints. PRODUCTION Drake Fabrics Experience in team leadership, art and retail/mail order buying and merchandising in an direction and CAD a plus. Samples & patterns. Full service shop 718-389-8902 to the trade. Fine fast work. apparel or textile industry. You must have strong negotiation, Please fax resume to: {646} 277-7483 212-869-2699 product analysis, leadership and multi-tasking skills. Experi- ence in women’s accessories, jewelry, skin care and cosmetics Patterns & Samples Designer to $125K. Current exp. in dept. We’re neurotic about being perfect! a plus. Some travel required. store womens woven & knits sportswear. Fast 1 on 1 service. Call 212-840-2155 Must hang w/ Gap, Ann Taylor, Talbots, HCI offers an excellent benefits package including 401(k) and Limited. Classic Ralph-Lauren genre pre- PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD ferred. PC Illustraor/Photoshop. Must High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- tuition reimbursement. Please email resume (Word docu- come form structured corp. environment. GARMENT CENTER REAL ESTATE sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 ments only) & salary req. to [email protected]; mail supervising others. Call 973-564-9236. Agcy For ALL office & loft SPACES to HCI Direct, Inc., Attn: HR, 3050 Tillman Dr., Bensalem, PA 500-20,000 SQ.FT ADMIN. ASSISTANT 19020 or fax to (215) 244-0328. EOE Under Market Sublets - NO FEE! Assist V.P. Sales. Must have Wal-Mart Designer to $85K. Current exp. in 525 7th Avenue Shared Shwrm Own Ent experience and be familiar w/ their missy cut & sewn tops & sweaters. 212-947-5500 requirements & procedures. Excellent Assistant Designer/ Branded. Moderate priced. Midtown. Paul, Mike, Larry, Don, Jerry or Steve AVAILABLE IMMEDIATELY! opportunity w/ long established GLIMPSO™ Call 973-564-9236. Jaral Fashion Agcy Owner must relocate. Very Profitable childrenswear co. Travel required. Childrenswear MFG women’s wear store. Excellent lease. FAX 212-273-0822 Experienced ass’tneeded to work close- JUNIOR HANDBAG Showrooms & Lofts 20% + growth yearly since opening in ly with designers preparing style DESIGNER BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS 1999. Also growing, baby store next packs and detail sheets for production. Designer to $85K. Current exp. in private Great ’New’ Office Space Avail door opened July 2002. Park Slope. Must be detail oriented with strong Fast growing handbag and label missy cut & sewn knits & tops. Ann ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Please call: [212] 739-6661 color sense. Import experience a must. accessory company in NYC Taylor, Liz Claiborne, Jones Apparel, Admin Asst./Customer Svc. genre geared for mass market. Will consid- SOHO LOCATIONS Costume jewelry importer in Huntington. Excellent salary & benefits. is seeking a junior handbag Email replies in strict confidence to er assoc. ready for designer pos. MAC or From 200-1000 sq. ft. From $2500/month Team player who is self-motivated designer. Knowledge of trends PC OK. Call 973-564-9236. Jaral Agcy Great for shoes, access, jewelry, cosmetics. with phone, computer, writing skills & HR @ [email protected] Women’s Boutique. 1 loc. adj. to DKNY. thrive in a fast paced environment. and computer design skills is Cheap N.Y. presence! Call 212.777.7700 Please fax resume to: (631) 385-4540 a must. International travel required. We offer a compet- Design FASHION DESIGNER RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH itive salary and comprehen- sive benefit package. Please Fashion forward Hip-hop/Urbanwear Co’s. Exclusive to the Fashion Industry Administrator Assistant Jr. division seeks self-motivated fashion Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 Fabric company seeks individual for Careers in Apparel Thru email your resume to: designer with 1-2 years of experience. Nancy Bottali,Accessory 212-213-6386 duties related to fabric imports. Must APPAREL STAFFING, LTD. [email protected] A working knowledge of FREEHAND, C.F.O. Accessory Mfr...... $BOE ILLUSTRATOR, PHOTOSHOP, etc. a Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 be familiar with this industry. Comput- must. Fax resume to HR: 201.935.7669 er literate, excel proficient, great typ- Dsgnr-Wm’s Sweaters+C.N.S. Knits...... $BOE Fax: 609-448-8248 Dsgnr-Wm’s Golf Sweaters+Weekend Wr..$65K Chargeback Specialist www.raskinexecsearch.com ing skills and detail oriented is a must. Graphic Dsgnr-Yng Mens Urban Wr...... $50K Mid-sized Apparel Co. looking for a Fax resumes to Peter: 212 719 3387 Graphic Dsgnr-Intimate Apparel,Lic Char.$50K fully experienced charge back person. Asstnt Operations-Mgr-Mjr Apparel Mfr....$65K Very familiar with the business. Good DESIGN/MERCHANDISE Leading manufacturer of junior sports- Contract Work Wanted RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Import Mgr-Accessory Mfr. L/C Doc. Exp..$65K benefits. Fax resume (212) 764-5981 Techn Dsgnr - WM’s Outerwear...... $50K+ wear seeks experienced individual to 807, Cut/sewing in freezone based in Domini- Updating/Phone Interviews Art Director $65-70K build product line. Must be motivated can Republic, 30 years exp., specilaty in child- PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. PA loc. 5-10 yrs screenprint/graphic exp. Techn Dsgnr - (2)Childrenswear...... $50K+ Costing Coord to $50-65K. Current exp Spec.Techn. Dsgnr Label C+S Exp...... $50K+ & knowledgeable of fabric & trim ren’s also in womens & men’s sportswear. 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 Must have worked w/mass merchants. in costing woven sportswear, bottoms, markets. Organizational skills a Attn: Anneris Fax 809-528-5347 (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Jennifer *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Other [email protected] twills, etc. Costing out samples, follow- MUST!Emailresume to: Email: [email protected] www.resumesforfashion.com [email protected] or Fax Resume to (212) 302-1161 up trim.Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 27

Acct Mgr $100-150K. Current exp in mod. Production Mgr. (Factory) to better casual womens sprtswr. Private label or branded exp. ok. Must hang w/ SALES REPRESENTATIVES Exp’d. in all aspects of hands-on garment NEWPORT / JUNIOR WOMEN’S WEAR mfg. for Queens, NY sewing plant. Fax Ms. Erica, Lemongrass, Sag Harbor, etc. Major junior women’s wear co. seeks resume and salary req. to: 718-433-1730 Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy individual with experience in sales. Must Intimate/Shape/Sleepwear have strong contact with Dept. stores & Established company seeks commis- National Cataloguer, E-commerce & Chain stores. Please fax resume to : sion based sales reps. Must be well con- Mr. Okoo Kim @212-944-8319 nected w/ boutiques and chain stores. 43 store missy apparel company has exciting Excellent Opportunity! NE, SE, Midwest and West territories PRODUCT MANAGER Do you have existing connections with avail. Please fax your resume to AK at opportunities in our Irvine, CA corporate office: major national chains? We have an extra - 212-213-8483 SOURCING DIVISION ordinary casted gift lLine. Fax/E-mail: SALES! SALES! SALES! Leading childrenswear company is 213748-5389 / [email protected] Apparel Buyer (C048-01) seeking a highly motivated, detail- Established, rapidly growing oriented indiv to work in our Sourcing manufacturer seeking salespeople: Looking for a sharp buyer w/ 5+ yrs buying exp. in apparel Division. The candidate should have industry, PD & private labeling exposure a must, offshore min 3 yrs exp in production and *Seeking denim/woven bottoms rep. sourcing. The candidate will maintain & w/ national brand sourcing contacts. travel exp. a plus. Resp. incl. product selection, neg. & the handle vendor costing, line plans, Intimate Apparel Sales development of buying strategies to fill the company’s needs. style, fabric & trim tracking, and sea- 2 positions: *Seeking sales reps w/ dept & chain sonal status reports. The candidate Bra and Panty/Sleepwear store experience. will standardize & approve raw materi- Visual Presentation Manager (C044-04) al dvlpmt. Daily communication with Weareanintimate apparel group with Generous salary will commensurate vendors. Responsible for maintaining vast manufacturing facilities experience/contacts. Email: FIT GRAD Seeking for a seasoned visual mgr w/ multi location, apparel sample lines. Office skills required in- worldwide. We have an opportunity for [email protected] FIT grad with 3 yrs exp w/chapter 7 co. background. Resp. for chain’s merchandise presentation, clude a working knowl of AS400, TWO sales specialists to join our team co. Exp’d in pushing contractors to pro- zoning directions, fixture grids, store layout & signing stand- Microsoft Word & Excel. in either bra and panty or sleepwear. duce early, getting buyers to increase Please e-mail your resume: Candidates must have have an orders, renegotiating to lower supplier ards. Develops training tools & visual direction materials [email protected] excellent following with Bra and Panty SLS - GIRLSWEAR HI$ prices & gatekeeping creditors. Exten- w/ the collaboration of the Merch. & Store Ops Depts. fax: 212-643-2826. No calls. EOE. OR Sleepwear mass merchants, Est’d co seeks shrp, exp’d individ for sive knowledge of fabrics, production, discounters and private label accounts. branded tweens spts line selling to and quality control. Computer literate. Excellent training, comm. skills & 65% travel required. mid-tier. My can-do attitude and results- RECEPTIONIST Join us and Grow with us! The oriented dedication can be a great as- Children’s Apparel Co. seeks a very well A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. set to your company! I want to work. Logistics Assistant (C024-03) opportunities are endless! We offer organized individual w/professional phone base salary and commission plus good 450 7th Ave. (AGCY) 268-6123 Email [email protected] In charge of L/C & wire transfer payments to overseas/ manner and strong written & verbal benefits. Please apply only if you have domestic vendors, classifies garments, monitors shipping logs communication skills. Will also handle the qualifications and experience we office management functions. Computer are looking for. Please fax resume to: for US customs/overseas, troubleshoots & comm. w/ forward- knowledge req’d. Please Fax resume & 212-995-9293 ers, brokers, account., warehouses & vendors. Import reg. salary requirements to Nick: 212-564-5214 including quota, duty & doc. exp. & strong Excel a must. SALES ASSISTANT Midtown silver jewelry company Fashion Copywriter / Editor (C043-04) seeking detail oriented person to MIRRORS assist internal sales team. Experience SALES POSITION Position will write & edit copy for our catalog/retail/website. with department stores is essential. Established junior company looking for Requires 4+ yrs of catalog & internet writing/proofreading, Must be organized, with good detail high energy, hard-working, professional fashion trends & terminology exp., degree in English or /follow-up skills and have strong individual. Must have strong depart- knowledge of Excel. $40’s with ment store relationships. Fax resume to: related field. Word / Quark proficient. benefits. Email resume to: 323-277-1205 [email protected] Excellent benefits! Med/Den/Vis, matching 401(k) & more. Send resume & salary to [email protected] or fax (800) 854-4107. SAMPLEMAKER Couture level high profile women’s Sales $60-80K Note job codes on all correspondence. Designer company looking for detailed ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE sample hand. Must have ability to handle Women’s Wear delicate fabrics. Tailoring background [email protected] Marker/Grader/Asst. Pttrnmkr. a plus. 10 years experience necessary. Gerber for Queens, NY production Please fax resume to: (212) 398-7765 facility. Fax resume and salary req. to: 718 433-1730 Sample Room Asst. Sales Account Executive T-Shirt & Apparel Co. Well Est. Major Manufacturer seeking Immediate opening for an exp’d, PATTERNMAKER indiv to "wear many hats" within our self-motivated Sales professional who Famous Jr. Apparel Co. seeking first sample room. Resp incl: some admin loves to sell! Join our established sample thru production pattern mak- work, sample room duties, catalog company with high production er. An excellent opportunity for the work & support to sales staff. Must be capacity and strong product right candidate. Friendly work envi- motivated, organized w/a great atti- development department! Qualified ronment. Pls fax resume to: tude. No exp. needed. We will train! candidate must possess excellent 212-302-0308 Room for growth! Fax resume & sal- communication/analytical/computer ary req’s to Lucy at: 212-944-1181. skills, be energetic, results/detail- oriented; in order to develop new We are a premier childrenswear Patternmaker FREEZE business opportunities and manage company seeking qualified and Sportswear Manufacturer seeks highly and grow existing accounts. Exp. ok highly creative designers in the skilled patternmaker that specializes from Mid-tier to Dept Stores. Intimate in plus sizes. Must have 5 years experi- Sleepwear Cad Designer Apparel experience, preferred. Email following areas: ence and ability to work from design- Must have 2-3 years of experience in resume to: [email protected]. ers sketches. Competitive salary and sleepwear and Daywear, and be Senior Designer benefits. Great opportunity. proficient in Illustrator and Photoshop. Boys Designer Fax resume to Katherine 212-382-1125 Fax 212-679-2960 Both positions require PatternMaker to $80K. Current exp. in Spec Tech extensive portfolio of NB, women’s outerwear required. Coats, Better Private label importer seeks Sales Executive INF & Toddler. Must be Jackets, polyfill, wool, etc. 7th Ave and indiv w/ experience in wovens. Spec, Exciting opportunity in New York of- well-organized, enthusiastic 38th st. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy grade and communicate with factories. fice for an experienced sales executive Must understand garment construction. to launch the Z.Cavaricci division of and a team player. Sr. PAUL&SHARK Detail oriented, Excel, Word proficiency junior and large sizes tops. The ideal Design position req. 5+ yrs Immediate part time Holiday Sales necessary. Good company benefits. candidate will have experience in sales lead childrenswear exper. position for a qualified sales person. Fax resume to DD (212)302-5699 for large sizes and juniors and must Please fax 212-452-9861 Attn: Sal Cretella have established relationships with de- Illustrator skills a plus. Boys partment stores and specialty shops. Design position req. 3+ yrs Spec Technician PAUL&SHARK DESIGN CAPABILITY In return, we will offer a competitive childrenswear exper. w/ Women’s Import Denim Mfr. seeks a salary and benefits package. For Illustrator skills. OPENING IN Spec Technician with strong background consideration, please send your resume and salary requirements to: Please fax resume, salary SO. FLORIDA 12/03 in Denim & Casual with some Career, Has openings for a Complete Sales Must be able to communicate with Human Resources, DONNKENNY, history & letter detailing the Staff, Salary + Commission, Great overseas suppliers & buyers; have strong 1411 Broadway, New York, NY 10018; Benefits Package. knowledge of garment construction, fax (212)944-8709; or email: position for which you are Please fax resume [email protected] to 212-452-9861 Attn: Sal Cretella fitting, and grading from development applying to: to completion. Computer literate a must; indicating position title in subject H.R. Dept. : PRODUCT DEVELOP. Illustrator/Photoshop proficient a plus. area). EOE M/F/D/V (212) 465-9556 EOE Must be able to flat sketch, design, and DONNKENNY ASSOCIATE effectively manage proprieties & multi- Wanted for mens/boys swim-wear and task. Please Fax or E-mail resume to: wovens importer communication skill 212-221-3480 / [email protected] Design & Merchandising Program with overseas factories essential. 3 Tech Designer $70-75K Asst. Prof., Drexel University years experience required. SWEATERS Fax resume to 212-695-1050 SALESPERSON Seeking an individual with 5+ years of Major Brand Large sleepwear manufacturer with retailing and/or product development [email protected] well established NY office and experience for a teaching and research Production Assistant overseas factories, seeks experienced position starting Fall 2004. Advanced M. Hidary & Co. is seeking an Import Tech Designer to $45K. Current exp. in specing, infant, toddler, or kidswear help- Salesperson. Must have strong degree preferred. Send letter/resume to: Production Assistant. Exp. with Walmart/ understanding of wholesale and retail K-Mart, LC’s and testing procedures. ful not nec. Knits plus wovens. Tech pack- Roberta H. Gruber, Drexel University, ages. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy business from identifying customer’s 3201 Chestnut St. F/T + benefits. Please Fax or E-mail needs, selling in, to selling results. Philadelphia, PA 19104 resume & salary requirements to: Must be self-motivated, energetic, 212-629-8692 / [email protected] See full description at : detail/results-oriented with solid track www.drexel.edu/comad/employment record. High computer proficiency Drexel is an EO/AA employer PRODUCTION required. Minimum 3 years experi- ence. Please forward resume for COORDINATOR immediate consideration to : DRAPER/ PATTERNMAKER Free Country, Ltd., an outerwear [email protected] Eveningwear company seeks experi- company is seeking a motivated and enced draper, patternmaker,to work detail-oriented individual for our from designer sketch.Must have a production dept. 3 yrs industry exp. good sense of fashion. Pls. send required. Responsibilities include: resumes, attach references w /names communication w/ overseas office and and telephone #’s and fax to: factories, production time lines, order SALES POSITION 212-391-8753 entry, measure garments, tech Account Manager Textile Design Studio seeks exp. Sales packages, grading specs, follow up on Fast growing Jewelry/Accessory Co. seeks Rep with 2 + yrs. Potential candidate samples fabric and trim. Computer EDI Coordinator--3+ yrs exp w/an ahighly-motivated, high-energy Sales- great opportunity! Fax res:212-391-8033 apparel importer/order entry/billing/inv literate in excel and outlook a must. person. Department & Specialty Store or e-mail: [email protected] adjust/credits/UPCs/ASNs. $50-65K Fax resume to 212-719-2051 or email experience a must. E-mail resume & y.com Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 to info@freecountr cover letter to: [email protected] Production Coordinator Accounts Manager to $150K base ++. GRAPHIC DESIGNER Womens Apparel co. seeking exp. Current exp. in private label cut & Kids/junior room, novelty and gift detail oriented person to assist with all sewn knit tops, missy and large size, Sales Professional manufacturer seeks graphic designer aspects of production follow up. Must 4-12 dollar wholesale. Min 5 yrs exp Mens sptwr company seeking an expe- with experience in licenses such as have good communication and comput- in this mkt req’d. Must hang w/ rienced sales person. Ym background Disney, Nick and Mattel. Must be pro- er skills. Salary 35K plus benefits. Golden Touch, E.S. Sutton, ISG, preferred. 3+ yrs. exp. Showroom ficient in Illustrator and Photoshop. Please fax resume to 212-382-2421 Regatta etc. Take over established sales. Room for growth. Fax resume to 212-643-0684 Attn: Soniya accts. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Please fax resume 212-268-3963 TERS. ®Registered of Cotton Incorporated. Service Mark/Trademark ©Cotton Incorporated, 2003. AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR PRODUCERS COTTON AMERICA’S

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