JONES BUYS BRIAN ATWOOD. MUSEUM MOMENT PAGE 2 OLIVIER THEYSKENS ON FASHION AND ART, AND HOSTING THE WHITNEY’S ART PARTY. PAGE 14

A BIG MARKET Brooks Bros. in Deal To Open India Stores

By JEAN E. PALMIERI

NEW YORK — America’s oldest retailer is jumping into the Indian market. Brooks Brothers Group has formed a joint venture with Reliance Brands Ltd. to open monobrand stores in India. The fi rst three stores will open this fall and TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY the companies expect to operate multiple units in the country’s 10 largest cities within three years. WWD Under the terms of the deal, Brooks Brothers will hold a 51 percent equity stake and Reliance will own the remainder. Reliance, part of the Reliance Industries Group, was formed in late 2007 to launch and build business with apparel, footwear and other lifestyle brands in the premium to luxury seg- ment. Its current portfolio includes Ermenegildo Zegna, Thomas Pink, Kenneth Cole, Paul & Shark, Timberland, Diesel, British toy store Hamleys, Steve Madden, Superdry and Quiksilver. Its most recent deal was with Iconix Brand Group and its 25-plus labels. “We have partnered with Reliance Brands Ltd. be- cause of their passion for the Brooks Brothers brand, their track record with other premium brands, and their expertise and connections within India,” said Claudio Del Vecchio, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Brooks Brothers. Darshan Mehta, president and ceo of Reliance Brands Ltd., said he has been talking to Brooks Brothers for several years about “planting more geographical fl ags outside of Europe, particularly in Asia.” But the idea re- ally took off after Brooks Brothers appointed a managing SEE PAGE 16

OF BRANDS AND BLOGGERS To Pay o r Not To Pay

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

THE LOVE AFFAIR BETWEEN bloggers and fashion brands and retailers is entering its next phase. And like in many relationships, money is a big part of the question. There’s been some backlash from designers and Power of Two brands as they question having to pay bloggers from NEW YORK — The American fashion industry gave a pair of thumbs-up to Mary-Kate $5,000 up to $50,000 to work with them. Skeptics ques- tion whether paying bloggers results in signifi cant and Ashley Olsen Monday night, as the Council of Fashion Designers of America handed return on investment, especially in comparison to the sisters’ line, The Row, its Womenswear Designer of the Year award. The duo a magazine or television ad. Besides, some brands strode the red carpet at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall, wearing their own designs, contend, if bloggers are journalists, journalists aren’t paid for writing about a company. with longtime booster Lauren Hutton. For more, see pages 4 and 5. Bloggers argue back that their fees have substan- tial ROI because blogs can drive millions of page views a month both on their sites and the brand’s Web site. So why shouldn’t they be paid? And while some bloggers are journalists in the true sense, most of them don’t consider themselves journalists on par with those at The New York Times or the The Wall Street Journal. They are more like columnists, ex- pressing opinions about what they see. “When you want to work with a blogger in a way that you would with any infl uencer — whether it’s a photographer, a stylist, a designer for your windows, a public endorser of your brand, advertising or a de- sign collaboration — that’s where you have to com- pensate because you would compensate anyone for those things,” said Karen Robinovitz, co-founder and chief creative offi cer of Digital Brand Architects, who considers herself the pioneer of “blogger agents.” She pointed out that if a brand sends a blogger a box of clothes with the intent of having them create four dedicated full looks that they need shot for posts, the talent has to location scout — and is responsible for styling, hair, makeup, photography, art direction, retouching, copywriting and posting. “That takes a magazine sometimes 20 people to pull off,” Robinovitz said. The tension between brands PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER SEE PAGE 10 2 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012 WWD.COM

Jones Group Buys Brian Atwood THE BRIEFING BOX global demand, and the two com- By MARC KARIMZADEH Brian panies combined could be that IN TODAY’S WWD Atwood much more powerful.” NEW YORK — The Jones Group As part of the acquisition, Inc. is bolstering its brand portfo- Atwood’s current and future col- lio with another fashionable name. lections, including his luxury The scene at the Veuve Jones has acquired the major- shoe label, will be incorporated Clicquot Polo Classic. ity of the Brian Atwood brand, into the Jones portfolio. extending its relationship with “We have studied the Brian the footwear designer, whose Atwood designer piece of the contemporary B Brian Atwood business,” noted Dickson. “It’s line, launched in 2011, is in a li- a well-run boutique brand that censed partnership with Jones. is probably, in terms of volume, Jones did not disclose the small, but it is important and has size of the majority stake or the capability of growing.” the sum it paid to acquire the The move gives the Jones 11-year-old business. portfolio another lift as the com- Jones and Atwood are forming pany seeks to reinvent itself with a joint venture, which owns the a brand-centric, rather than a intellectual property of the brand category-centric, approach. and its existing licenses. Atwood Under the leadership of will retain a minority stake in the Dickson and Jones chief execu- PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND PHOTO BY company that bears his name. tive officer Wes Card, the company Jones plans to help further purchased brands including Kurt The American fashion industry celebrated its own build the Brian Atwood brand Geiger, Stuart Weitzman, Rachel Monday night at the annual CFDA Awards. PAGE 1 and expand it into new catego- Roy and Robert Rodriguez. ries, which are likely to range cludes Lady Gaga and Victoria “This marks another mile- Brooks Brothers Group has formed a joint venture from jewelry to apparel and help Beckham and worldwide distri- stone in our ongoing mission of with Reliance Brands Ltd. to open monobrand stores in transform the designer into a bution at upscale specialty stores truly developing the Jones Group India. PAGE 1 global lifestyle label. like Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth into a powerful portfolio of fash- Milan-based Atwood will con- Avenue, Intermix and Jeffrey. ion brands, ultimately led by ex- The love affair between bloggers and fashion brands tinue as creative director and In September, Atwood will ceptional talent,” Dickson said. and retailers is entering its next phase. PAGE 1 designer of the brand, and will open his first eponymous free- “Brian is another one of those oversee all aspects of design standing boutique at 655 Madison bright stars that we believe will The benefits and opportunities of the nascent U.S.- and image. He lauded Jones for Avenue, next to Michael Kors and be an asset to the company in South Korea Free Trade Agreement were discussed in its business acumen and brand across from Barneys New York. many ways. detail by officials from both governments. PAGE 6 expertise. “Jones is an industry “Our successful launch of B “We will hopefully grow this leader with such an expertise Brian Atwood has been a gradual business over many years to be Top female executives gathered last week to discuss in building and operating global building of a long-term partner- an important part of our portfo- ways in which the digital revolution has changed the way brands,” Atwood said, adding that ship, and the collection demon- lio,” he added. they run their businesses, from hiring practices to dealing he is looking forward to “be able strated to us that there is strong Atwood said he would like with clients to spotting global trends. PAGE 11 to fully realize my brand’s poten- demand for his vision, which to build his handbag assort- tial and what it looks like, smells our team can execute brilliantly ment and expand into apparel On Monday, David Remnick sat with Charlie Rose on like, and anything about it. For against his ideas,” said Richard and other categories. “Anything CBS’ “This Morning” for an old-hat discussion: What will any designer, that’s the dream.” Dickson, Jones’ president and that fits and makes sense for the The New Yorker look like in the future? PAGE 13 The designer already has chief executive officer of brand- brand,” he said. “There are re- a celebrity following that in- ed business. “We believe he has ally no limits.” A Q&A with Olivier Theyskens, who will be an honorary cochair for the annual Whitney Museum Art Party on Wednesday at Skylight Soho. PAGE 14

Organized Retail Crime On the Rise Sir Paul McCartney pulled out his guitar and began singing “Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da” at the close of the Diamond said Rich Mellor, vice president port said. According to the survey, Jubilee concert at Buckingham Palace. PAGE 15 By KRISTI ELLIS of loss prevention at the NRF. 52.1 percent of companies said “Selling this stolen merchandise they were a victim of cargo theft Experiential luxury is gaining a stronger foothold in the WASHINGTON — The number of is a growing criminal enterprise in the past 12 months, up from minds of consumers than discretionary spending on high- retailers victimized by organized and retailers must remain vigilant 49.6 percent last year. end goods just for the sake of ownership. PAGE 15 retail crime groups increased in as this is an issue that involves “A significantly higher per- the past year, as criminal gangs everyone’s cooperation when it cent of companies [68.1 percent Isaac Mizrahi is back in the better sportswear game at became increasingly more bra- comes to protecting retailer’s as- this versus 57.4 percent last year] department stores. PAGE 16 zen and violent in their quest sets, including their valued store said cargo theft occurs mostly en to steal a wide range of popular associates and customers.” route from the distribution cen- Joseph M. Haggar Jr., who headed Haggar Corp. for consumer products, the National The NRF’s survey was conduct- ter to the store,” the report said. two decades and was instrumental in a number of Retail Federation said in its an- ed from April 17 to May 11 and in- Four in 10 retailers said theft innovations in the men’s casual slack market, died June nual report. volved loss-prevention executives also occurs en route from the 1 of heart disease. He was 87. PAGE 16 The NRF’s eighth annual from department stores, large-box manufacturer to the distribution study revealed that of the 125 re- retailers, discounters, drug stores, center, while 15.9 percent said tailers surveyed, 96 percent the crime happens at the said they had been the vic- distribution center. ON WWD.COM tim of organized retail crime The top 10 cities and re- in the past year, up from 94.5 gions in the U.S. where the EYE: Celebs and polo enthusiasts alike made the trek to percent last year. Another 87 organized criminal activ- New Jersey’s Liberty State Park to take in the annual Veuve percent said organized retail ity occurred were Atlanta, Clicquot Polo Classic. For more photos, see WWD.com/eye. crime has increased in the 52.1 Baltimore/Washington D.C., past three years. PERCENTAGE OF COMPANIES Chicago, Dallas, Houston, Denim jeans continued to THAT SAID THEY WERE A VICTIM OF Los Angeles/Orange County, TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS be one of the top stolen items, New York/Northern New [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. CARGO THEFT IN THE PAST 12 MONTHS. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. according to the retailers sur- Jersey, Miami, Phoenix and COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. veyed in the report. In general, San Francisco/Oakland, ac- VOLUME 203, NO. 115. TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, criminal groups target depart- cording to the report. March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine ment and specialty stores for items groceries, restaurants and spe- “Though retailers continue Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, such as designer clothing, hand- cialty retailers. The report cited to make great strides in their Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at bags, lingerie and accessories and several factors contributing to the fight against organized retail New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses resell it online, at pawn shops and increased level of crime, including crime, sophisticated criminals to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S flea markets, and through other a weakened economy, lower staff- with unending opportunities and WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, fencing operations. Gift cards, ing levels at stores and the “ease” anonymous outlets to sell their call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent over-the-counter medicines, elec- of selling stolen merchandise in a stolen merchandise are proving label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless tronics, batteries and infant for- variety of outlets. to be quite challenging for both we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on mula were also in high demand. Among the new trends in crim- retailers and law enforcement all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all “What this tells us is that as inal activity that retailers report- agencies working to combat this editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints retailers and law enforcement ed were digital receipt fraud, in- issue,” said Joe LaRocca senior of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at become more aware of and more creased laundry detergent thefts, asset protection adviser at the www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that proactive in pursuing organized increased smash-and-grab inci- NRF. “With the types of orga- we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at retail crime gangs, criminals dents and collusion with street nized retail crimes changing in P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED have become more desperate and gangs. Cargo theft “continues to severity and scope every day, and ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER brazen in their efforts, stopping grow at an alarming rate, posing cargo theft and violent instances UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR at nothing to get their hands on huge problems for retailers and becoming more troubling, retail- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A large quantities of merchandise,” their distribution centers,” the re- ers are constantly on high alert.” SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. FASHION’S MAINEVENT

At this awards show, it’s only style that counts.

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Photos: Diane von Furstenberg, Lady Gaga, Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen by Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com, Marc Jacobs and Sofi a Coppola, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez by Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images, Gwyneth Paltrow and Michael Kors by Sherly Rabbani/Patrick McMullan, Kate Moss by Rabbani and Solimene Photography, Tory Burch by Larry Busacca/Getty Images, Kanye West by Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com, Jessica Alba by Clint Spaulding/Patrick McMullan 4 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012 Birthday Honors “If you hate me, that’s OK,” Seth Meyers said Monday night onstage at Alice Tully Hall at Lincoln Center where he hosted the CFDA Awards. “Fashion people like hating things more than they like liking things.” While that may be true most of the time, it was an industry love-in Monday night as the council celebrated not only 2012’s winning designers but 50 years of its own existence. An opening video and fashion show played up the five-decade history of the CFDA in a dramatic stroke. As president Diane von Furstenberg strode onstage, she looked back via historical fashion shows to 1962 when ready-to-wear and sportswear companies existed but designers were kept in back rooms. Over cocktails, attendees contemplated how exactly American fashion could be defined in 2012. “With American fashion, there’s this great sense of freedom,” said Jessica Chastain, on hand to present Womenswear Designer of the Year, and clad in Prabal Gurung. “We really celebrate people who came from nothing then [get] the key to the castle. With American fashion, it’s the freedom to create whatever you want out of nothing.” Marc Jacobs didn’t miss a beat before offering: “I don’t really have one.” As for the winners, Ashley and Mary- Kate Olsen’s The Row took top honors with the Womenswear Designer of the Year award; Billy Reid received the Menswear Designer of the Year and Reed Krakoff won the Accessory Designer of the Year. The 2012 CFDA Fashion Awards’ Swarovski Award for emerging talents went to Joseph Altuzarra in the Womenswear category; Phillip Lim in Menswear, and Tabitha Simmons in Accessory Design. As expected, neither Johnny Depp not Rei Kawakubo picked up their respective Fashion FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Icon and International Awards. John Waters was eager to accept on behalf of each. “Both WWD.com/eye. Phillip Lim Billy Reid winners are my idols,” the director said. Tommy Hilfiger headlined the night’s honorees in attendance, accepting the Joseph Altuzarra and Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Kate Bosworth in a dress Award. Andrew Rosen received the Founders by the designer. Award and Scott Schuman and Garance Doré were given the Media Award. Tommy Hilfiger was in an appropriately reflective Hilfiger mood given the tone of the evening. “It’s been a journey,” he smiled on the way eye into the theater. “And it feels like yesterday.”

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye.

Garance Doré in Derek Lam with Marc Jacobs and Scott Schuman in Harry Louis Dior Homme. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER AND KSW WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012 5 WWD.COM

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez with Dakota Fanning in Proenza Schouler.

Jessica Chastain in Prabal Gurung.

John Waters

Reed Krakoff, Kyra Sedgwick and Delphine Krakoff both in looks by the designer.

Tabitha Simmons and Karen Elson Lauren Hutton in The Diane von in Proenza Row and Superga. Furstenberg Schouler. 6 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012 WWD.COM

keting tool, labeling its jeans as laser washed as opposed to hand washed. Denim was also a focus in the fashion textiles forecast for fall 2013. Cotton Inc. senior product trend analyst Lauren Deatherage noted that denim with bold prints, allover stud work, floral appliqués and leather Going Green Gets Serious appearances are among upcoming trends. Saying that consumers are starting to get up to 70 percent of its effluent water and more comfortable with color, Deatherage By PAYAL UTTAM 100 percent of its dyestuffs. In one year, emphasized two palettes: soft peaches its factory recovers as much as 24,800 li- Mark Messura mixed with bright orange and lime, and HONG KONG — Sustainability and ters of water. aquatic blues and greens punctuated by breakthroughs in eco-friendly technology “Water prices and energy prices will GARETH JONES PHOTOS BY deep purples and vivid orange. took center stage at the “Great Ideas in increase, so I feel this is a way to com- sumers want to know the product can do “There is also a lot of printing being Cotton” conference here. pete,” said Pat-Nie Woo, director of something, that there’s some value.” done rather than weaving or knitting the Several speakers underscored the ben- Central Textiles, who expects a 10-year Among the performance innovations construction, which would be more cost- efits of green practices, noting that with return on investment on the project. unveiled at the conference was Dow ly,” she said. Referring to the Cotton Inc. mounting pressure from governments At the Crystal Group’s “Walk the Corning Corp.’s Soft Hydro Guard, a session on digitally created denim finish- and increased interest from retailers, Sustainable Talk” session, Tilky Wang, new water-repellent finishing chemistry. es, she added that mimicked textures on producing responsibly is senior officer for corpo- Utilizing silicone, the company has cre- cotton are becoming popular. becoming a matter of sur- rate quality and sustain- ated a water-resistant finish with a soft- Some attendees had reservations vival. Hosted by Cotton ability, revealed how er hand. In his presentation, Fernando about the cost of eco-friendly technologi- Incorporated and Cotton the company uses more Vazquez, global technical manager for cal innovations. Council International, the than 200 eco-practices textiles and leather, focused on reduc- “Customers are definitely starting May 22 event was attend- to produce apparel for ing usage of chemicals such as fluorine, to become aware of sustainability, but ed by more than 300 del- clients including Mango, formaldehyde and solvents. nobody wants to pay more,” said Chuck egates from international Levi Strauss & Co., H&M An exhibition showcasing advances in Cogswell, fabric research and develop- apparel brands, sourcing and Victoria’s Secret. fabrics and machinery featured booths ment manager at Eddie Bauer. groups and manufactur- Strategies range from the highlighting innovations in denim pro- Messura acknowledged that costs are ing mills. use of solar energy for duction. Spanish company Jeanologia one of the industry’s biggest challenges, “The issue of sustain- water heating to recycling displayed fabric finished using its new e- adding, “The macroeconomic climate ability is not going away,” scraps of cotton. Soft garment-softening technique. Unlike right now in three of the major markets — said Mark Messura, se- “I found it quite in- traditional processes requiring as much Europe, the U.S. and Japan — is still very nior vice president of spiring,” said Bernd as 1,000 liters of water for 100 garments, difficult. So it’s very hard to pass any kind global supply chain mar- Lauren Sauer, head of apparel Jeanologia’s machines only require five of price increase along to customers.” keting at Cotton Inc. “It’s Deatherage development at World liters to soften fabric. The company also Until the market is able to absorb costs not like a color trend Cat Ltd., a company that presented examples of denim treated with of innovation, he applauded forward- where next season it will sources products for its eco-friendly laser finishing technology. thinking manufacturers, reminding them be different. Companies need to find Puma. “We are keen to work with suppli- “Now people have started to believe that “really good technologies” not only ways to adapt and improve.” ers who have this mind-set and what we in laser,” said Sergio Dominguez, area protect the environment but can also offer Messura gave special mention to tech- saw in the session is that it can actually manager, citing a recent collaboration major cost savings. On a positive note, nology pioneered by Central Textiles be profitable.” with Guess Jeans. “They used the laser Messura felt the outlook for cotton was (HK) Ltd. and Cotton Inc. The Hong On the technology front, Messura noted to make a collection with animal prints.” bright. Encouraged by the recent drop Kong-based textile manufacturer has that functional finishes continue to be im- Another one of its clients is Replay, in cotton prices, he predicted that global implemented a new system of recycling portant in the marketplace because “con- which is capitalizing on lasers as a mar- consumption would rise in 2013. Potential of South Korea FTA Extolled Korea in New York, noted that South By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN Korea is the seventh-largest trading partner of the U.S., and the second- NEW YORK — The benefits and op- largest in the service market for the portunities of the nascent U.S.-South U.S. in Asia. Korea Free Trade Agreement were dis- However, he noted that the U.S. cussed in detail by officials from both has gone from being the largest to the governments at an event sponsored by fourth-largest trading partner, behind the Korea Trade-Investment Promotion China, the European Union and Japan, Agency and the Korean Chamber of even though two-way trade surpassed Commerce & Industry in the USA. $100 billion last year for the first time. Ryan Hollowell, international trade He said this still pales in comparison specialist at the U.S. Department of to the $500 billion in two-way trade be- Commerce, said, “This agreement is tween the U.S. and China last year. a significant one for U.S. commerce “We need to catch up with trade and exports, marking the biggest free- with China by taking advantage of this trade agreement since CAFTA. It low- agreement,” Kim added. ers significant barriers to trade and Korean officials also came armed investment and in- with a boatload — the creases access to the country is the larg- Korean market for est ship builder in U.S. business, and the world — of vital vice versa. As a re- statistics about their sult of this, the U.S. nation to the confer- International Trade $43B ence, held here on Commission esti- U.S. EXPORTS TO May 21. South Korea, mates that the reduc- SOUTH KOREA IN 2011. with the 15th-larg- tion of tariffs and du- est economy in the ty-free status of many world and a gross do- product categories mestic product of $1 alone will add $10 billion to $12 billion trillion, had a 3.6 percent growth in annually to the U.S. GDP and around 2011. The FTA with the U.S. made the $10 billion in U.S. merchandise exports country the only one in the world to to Korea.” have concluded such a pact with the Hollowell noted that in signing the world’s top three countries or trading agreement, President Obama said it blocs: the U.S., European Union and will add 70,000 jobs in sectors such the Association of Southeast Asian as aerospace and chemicals, and that Nations. It also has FTAs with Peru, the cosmetics industry is expected to Chile, Singapore, India and European see 5 to 10 percent annual gains in Free Trade Association member coun- exports. He added that in 2011, U.S. tries Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway exports to South Korea reached $43 and Switzerland, and has concluded a billion, representing a 12 percent in- pact with Turkey. crease. Hollowell also urged the busi- In textiles, the U.S. provides duty- nessmen and women in attendance to free access to 61 percent of Korean take advantage of a Web site, uskorea- exports using a yarn-forward rule of connect.org, that has been established origin, meaning only apparel and tex- to bring American and Korean busi- tile products using yarn from the U.S. nesses together. or Korea qualify for preferential tariff Young-mok Kim, consul general of treatment. When top brands take their eCommerce global...

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Marc Donna Jacobs Karan WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012 9 WWD.COM Marc Jacobs: Bravado in color, pattern and volume Philosophy A.L.C. by Boy. by 10 Crosby made a high-impact combination at Marc Jacobs. di Alberta Andrea Band of Derek Lam Head women’s designer Joseph Carter noted the Ferretti Lieberman Outsiders influence of both Cindy Sherman’s clowns and over- dyed carnations, the kind you can find at the deli, when working up the palette and proportion play. One could spot as well a Rei Kawakubo homage on the day she’ll be in New York in spirit for her CFDA award. Throughout there were head-to-toe florals and abstract swirls done in what Carter called “really gaudy colors” such as sour green, purple and tomato red. While major volume dominated — giant A-line dresses and oversize shorts and pajamas — Jacobs worked in a shrunken polo motif and cut the printed dresses somewhere between lean and languid. Finishing many of the looks: color-coordinated handbags and chunky jeweled platform sandals.

Donna Karan: “Rock, paper, crystal, scissors” was Donna Karan’s way of describing her resort collection. If the sound bite came off like a children’s game, the work was all grown-up sophistication. Paper-light dresses had origami pleats, a draped and folded white blouse was paired with a sculpted black skirt and a fringed metallic tweed suit was constructed so that the jacket appeared almost shredded. For evening, Karan played up the femininity with charming pink cocktail dresses and a slinky white jersey halter dress with chain straps.

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti: For her Philosophy collection, Alberta Ferretti evoked the colorful atmosphere of the Amalfi Coast. Embellishments inspired by the region’s famous hand-painted porcelain appeared on cotton shorts and a matching bandeau bra, which were worn under a fluid crepe de chine shirt. Ferretti’s signature romantic touch came through in the details, such as floral silk embroideries on a simple cotton T-shirt, and tight ankle-length pants in cotton piquet with a lace stripe down the side.

A.L.C. by Andrea Lieberman: “I’m not really thematic as a designer, but I was feeling like I wanted to have fun,” said Lieberman of her collection. So she added more color and pattern to her go-to riffs on utilitarian and tribal motifs that appeared on canvas jackets, skinny leather pants and a chevronlike print composed of blurry dots. Simple silk blouses were lightened up with discreet details, such as keyhole cutouts, and little shorts were done in kicky pleats.

Boy. by Band of Outsiders: Creative director Scott Sternberg drew inspiration from his new Bauhaus- inspired house in Los Angeles’ Silver Lake neighborhood this season. Geometric patterns featured prominently on silk separates done in block prints, and Sternberg got crafty with great A-line blazers with contrast zip pockets.

10 Crosby Derek Lam: A year after launching his contemporary collection, Derek Lam continued to hit the right notes for the preppy-with-an-edge wardrobe. He reworked men’s wear classics, such as a boyish blazer done in a patchwork of plaids, and added technical fabric inserts to pleated skirts. A silk floral-printed tunic worn over matching wide-leg pants was an update of his signature pajama look.

Diesel Black Gold: Sophia Kokosalaki looked to the hipsters that mill around London’s East End for resort inspiration. “I like how they throw things together,” she said. “You don’t know if it took them hours or five seconds.” That translated to edgy pieces contrasted with feminine elements. A short-sleeve suede bomber jacket was done in ice-cream shades of peach and mint, and worn with silk combat pants. Abstract prints inspired by graffiti and New Wave record covers underscored the lineup’s pretty yet punkish feel.

Zero + Maria Cornejo: Maria Cornejo sought to address the needs of a modern traveler. Thus, her lineup included an ample selection of swimsuits and cover- ups with mesh overlays and subtle draping. For the city, there were jodhpurs, shorts and jumpsuits in

IANNACCONE; BEN WRIGHT; KYLE ERICKSEN AND GIOVANNI PAVESI ERICKSEN AND GIOVANNI KYLE IANNACCONE; BEN WRIGHT; bold jacquards and digital prints, including a Miami oasis, a grid motif and fingerprints. To top the look off, there were terrific jackets in sturdy twill and soft crepe.

BCBG Max Azria: Max and Lubov Azria worked up a mix of exotic prints, textural fabrics and Seventies glamour. Case in point: a cool black leather biker jacket, done in a tribal print and embellished with studs, paired with a filmy silk maxidress.

Zero + BCBG Hervé Léger: The label’s standard body-con bandage Maria Max look got a graphic makeover with tribal patterns and Diesel Black Gold Cornejo Azria Hervé Léger bold colorblocking framed by thick black lines. Great

PHOTOS BY GEROGE CHINSEE; STEVE EICHNER; THOMAS PHOTOS BY jackets and swimwear rounded out the range. 10 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012 A Closer Look at the Business of Blogging {Continued from page one} ber of posts wasn’t specified, as Azria and bloggers is resulting from the ever- wanted the partnership to be “natural”). evolving world of the Web. As brands in- “We took a fresh approach to styling crease their involvement with bloggers resort this season,” Azria said. “Kelly in terms of coverage and projects, the has a chic, effortless sensibility and ap- line between what they should be paid proach to fashion that is very BCBG — for and what they shouldn’t is growing and clearly she’s very influential. We’re increasingly blurry. just obsessed with her.” For between $5,000 and $20,000, a A BCBG-clad Framel will be on hand brand can work with an influential blog- during one of the days of the presentation ger to host an event (plus airfare, hotel for several hours to walk editors through and entertainment, of course) — one that the collection, and she also attended the gets upward of a few million page views a CFDA Awards Monday night with Azria and month and will cross-promote the brand model Selita Ebanks. Tonight, she will co- on the blogger’s site (although the jury is host an editor and blogger dinner in New still out on proving ROI from page views, York City — wearing the brand, of course. with sales being the only concrete mea- “I worked in the fashion industry sure). Starting from $20,000 to $25,000 for years before founding my site, and (and up), a company can book a blog- I appreciate when brands see that I ger for various weeklong projects dur- have more to offer than a p.r. gimmick,” ing Fashion Week — with some bloggers Framel told WWD. fetching nearly $50,000 for even longer- Late last month, Dove Hair revealed it term partnerships. In 2010, Bryanboy’s inked a one-year deal with Ramshackle Bryan Grey Yambao boasted that he made Glam’s Reid, the brand’s first ambassador. more than $100,000 a year from blogging In her role, Reid will cross promote and in- (and got a lot of flack for it) — which by to- teract with fans on her blog and on Dove’s day’s standards seems quite low for a top- Facebook page, as well as test new prod- tier blogger, especially when one factors ucts, attend events on behalf of the brand in the partnerships with advertising and and even host reader giveaways. According other heavily integrated projects. to her blog, she will serve as a “real world” But how can brands know the money counterpoint to the celebrity stylist who is well spent? Neiman Marcus measures works with the brand, Mark Townsend. the effectiveness of a campaign by track- Technology giant Samsung tapped ing page views, uniques, impressions, three of the most prominent fashion blog- referral traffic, as well as engagement gers — newest cast member of “America’s through “likes,” comments, retweets, Thesartorialist.com gers — such as Downtown from Behind (a Next Top Model” Bryanboy’s Bryan Grey replies, brand mentions, shares and in- sometimes with social media, we can have series with photographs of subjects riding Yambao, Susie Bubble’s Susanna Lau creases in in-bound and out-bound links, [even] larger audiences,” Song said, point- their bicycles from behind — all snapped and Man Repeller’s Leandra Medine — according to vice president of corporate ing out that when she posts an article of in downtown Manhattan) and Things to mark the launch of its Galaxy Note public relations Gabrielle de Papp. clothing and links to it on an Instagram post Organized Neatly (recent college gradu- smart phone tablet hybrid during New She recently voiced a complaint about — where she has over 100,000 followers — ate Austin Radcliffe’s blog of aesthetically York Fashion Week in February. the going rates for bloggers at a panel the item can sell out that day. “Before, when pleasing, highly organized imagery). Coach “Not only could they take photos, but with Song of Style’s Aimee Song at the I was super naïve and starting out, I would remains just as interested in working with they could comment and sketch directly Lucky Blogger Conference in Santa collaborate with brands without getting established digital influencers (it will reveal on the images and share their opinions Monica, Calif., where she said, “editori- paid and do it for free,” she said. projects with several well-known bloggers with their followers. Consumers across ally sized budgets” sometimes hinder the She is currently traveling cross-coun- in the near future), and Duplantis added the nation experienced Fashion Week in ability to work with bloggers. try with Macy’s on behalf of its Bar III that as long as a blogger is original, creative real time, [and] in a completely new and De Papp later clarified her comments, collection, and said fees range from a and has a genuine affection for the brand, it personalized way,” said Samsung Mobile’s explaining that although she believes blog- couple of thousand to be at a store host- doesn’t matter if they’ve been blogging for chief marketing officer Todd Pendleton. gers are as integral to the brand as tradi- ing all day — tweeting and uploading one month or five years. The bloggers were responsible for at- tional journalists, there needs to be a dif- images to Instagram throughout — up Robinovitz, who represents Song, The tending 40 shows over the course of the ferentiation between a blogger getting paid to about $50,000 for a collaboration deal Glamourai’s Framel, Ramshackle Glam’s week, tweeting and uploading images on for a campaign (which is more advertising with a brand, which she declined to Jordan Reid and From Me to You’s the devices. and p.r.) versus editorial outreach. “This is name (she is, however, in talks to work Jamie Beck, believes the role of blogger Yet as the number of brand partner- where the boundaries are murky,” she said, with them again). partnerships is increasingly important ships with bloggers grows, they bring a justifying that the retailer will pay a blog- Coach has been at the forefront of col- industry-wide. More and more brands recurring issue to light: the journalistic ger a rate that climbs into the tens of thou- laborating with bloggers — in late 2009, it appear to agree. integrity of bloggers. sands of dollars for advertising or e-mail became one of the first to enlist blog- On the one hand, bloggers want to campaigns because the company is in effect gers to design, style, blog and even be considered journalists but forging hiring talent to validate the brand name and appear in its ad campaigns such as partnerships with leading brands who can also leverage their followers. Leandra Medine, Hanneli Mustaparta, and designers creates what some “From an event perspective, we don’t Into the Gloss’ Emily Weiss and The believe to be a conflict of interest. have enormous p.r. budgets, so if we have to Glamourai’s Kelly Framel. Bloggers argue they aren’t “tradi- pay $10,000 or $20,000 for a blogger to host “We see bloggers as editors, influ- tional” journalists in the same sense an event for us, that can be really challeng- encers and entrepreneurs who reach that an editor at a newspaper or es- ing and not always realistic. It’s a shame be- a very specific and unique audi- tablished magazine is — and say this cause there’s so much value in having blog- ence,” said David Duplantis, Coach’s is starting to give way to a fast form- ger-hosted events. They have authenticity senior vice president of global Web ing, hybrid type of journalism. and followers, and it brings their audience and digital media. “We find great For starters, the new breed of into our store,” de Papp said. value in working with those who are online journalism is generally trans- She drew a distinction between blogger relevant to our brand, and are will- parent. Bloggers don’t pretend to appearances for the retailer and advertis- ing to pay fairly for projects.” be unbiased — more often than not, ing, though. “We don’t pay for celebrities to Duplantis believes the relation- they’re unabashedly self-promoting. host events or to wear our clothes, we don’t ship between brand and blogger to The FTC ruled in October 2009 that pay for designers to come to our store, and be symbiotic — and it’s not just about a post of any blogger who receives we don’t pay them a fee to make a designer the monetary reward. So, although the payment or accepts gifts is consid- p.a. at the store,” said de Papp. brand benefits by reaching a blogger’s ered an “endorsement” of the party She stressed that her team pitches audience in addition to its own, the he or she accepted it from. The rul- bloggers the same way they do journal- blogger also benefits from the cachet ing went on to state that “bloggers ists — and if the pitch doesn’t work with of working with a brand as large and who make an endorsement must dis- their blog then that’s fine. What she calls influential as Coach. close the material connections they challenging is when a blogger responds “We don’t look at our blogger share with the seller of the product saying they will write about a product or partnerships as advertising. For us, or service.” concept, but for a fee. “We would never this is about content creation and Intothegloss.com This further blurs the already do that. We don’t pay journalists,” de the opportunity to work with a very murky line of what a traditional blog Papp said. “I have the utmost respect for creative, vibrant community,” Duplantis BCBG Max Azria Group tapped is, compared with content in a magazine. the blogger community, but I don’t have a added. “It’s incredibly valuable to work The Glamourai’s Framel to style the And, like in magazines, bloggers do have budget to pay for product placement and with bloggers. They are creating so much BCBGMaxAzria ready-to-wear resort pre- lines they will not cross in terms of pro- the line between what’s advertising and interesting content, we’d be remiss not sentation on Wednesday and Thursday — moting a product. what’s editorial just needs to be clear.” to partner with them. It’s fascinating to the first time the brand has ever worked “For the sake of maintaining integrity Song’s blog, which received 2 million see how they interpret our brand through with a blogger in this capacity. According I won’t trade product for blog posts, but page views in April, has worked with their eyes.” to BCBG Max Azria Group creative di- if someone sends me something, I don’t Seven For All Mankind, True Religion, More recently, Coach has begun to work rector Lubov Azria, Framel was paid send it back,” said Man Repeller’s Medine, Fossil, Levi’s, Smart Car and Macy’s — with lesser-known bloggers, opting to dis- a fee of $5,000 for her role as a stylist, who receives about 2 million page views a all for compensation. cover online talent still relatively unknown which includes a tie-in with the brand month. “If Isabel Marant wants to pay me “Although bloggers aren’t celebrities to the fashion masses and introducing them and Framel’s respective Twitter, blog, to blog about them, it’s basically just an — a lot of us have a decent audience, and to its audience in place of established blog- Facebook and Instagram posts (the num- awesome fee on top of work I would al- WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012 11 WWD.COM The Dynamics of Digital along that timeline do we provide a By LISA LOCKWOOD viewpoint that’s of value?” One area that Tobe is not willing to abandon is NEW YORK — A group of top female the physical printed piece. “It’s not executives gathered here last week to been something I’ve been willing to discuss ways in which the digital rev- do...yet. Perhaps at a later date. I’m olution has changed the way they run not there yet. Some of it is in respect their businesses, from hiring practic- to our clients. We deal with very se- es to dealing with clients to spotting nior decision makers, many of whom global trends. tell me they like to have a physical re- The executives, all clients of Berns port. I hear over and over again, ‘I put Communications, were participants in it in my bag and read it on the plane.’” Themanrepeller.com The Women’s Leadership Roundtable, WSL’s Liebmann said it’s important tent of the blog,” which even during the slow- an ongoing series of discussions for a brand to figure out if they have ready be doing,” Medine said, firm that this est months of May and June can see up to 12 among leading executive women who the right people in place, who even is her “whole m.o.,” and there is a note on million page views (March had close to 15 are driving the business of retail. They know the right questions to ask. She her site that clearly states this. “I know I’m million) and average about 1.8 million unique were Laura Pomerantz, principal and said the consumer today wants to shop not an editor at The Wall Street Journal and visitors a month. For the last several months, founder of PBS Real Estate; Celeste when she wants, where she wants and that’s fine. I don’t have to have an unbiased Schuman has seen about 30 percent growth Gudas, president and founder of 24/ how she wants. “So you have to give point of view. Blogging is about subjectivity.” each month compared to last year, and cur- Seven, the executive recruiting firm; me all the choices. Sometimes I’m in She went on to liken talent on the digi- rent advertisers include Chanel, Bottega Wendy Liebmann, chief executive the store, sometimes I’m on my iPad, tal medium to the “new supermodels,” — Veneta, Net-a-porter, American Apparel and officer of WSL Strategic Retail, and sometimes I’m on my phone and not aesthetically, but because her and her Cole Haan. Schuman declines to reveal the Catherine Moellering, executive vice friends tweet me about something,” contemporaries have transformed the no- price of an ad on thesartorialist.com president of the Tobe Report. she said. She predicts none of the tion of blogging into a new medium used to “I don’t command a fee, I negotiate. It’s a “The digital space is one where channels will go away. “It’s all sliced convey a message and product. business [just] like anyone else’s,” Schuman most retailers are scrambling to find and diced differently from the shop- “Ultimately, everyone in this world is said of his distaste for the term “command- the right talent now,” said Gudas. pers’ viewpoint,” said Liebmann. trying to make a buck, and I don’t see why ing a fee,” and politely declining to discuss “For years, maybe not at the mer- As a commercial realtor, Pomerantz bloggers would be reprimanded for trying to numbers. “People get a lot more mad at chant level, we had a good pool of said the key question is, how does a turn hobbies into a business,” she said. “I do bloggers for making money than they do at solid talent, and that’s really shifted. luxury brand maintain the exclusiv- consider myself a writer with integrity, and I other artists. They get mad at us — unlike We’re looking outside of retail, and ity when there are so many channels? believe in everything I put on the site.” a designer who owns their own business. we’re looking at other industries to “You’re seeing Louis Vuitton opening Case in point: paid partnerships such as a Somehow they don’t seem to get as mad pull people in,” she said. all these stores all over the place, and recent collaboration with e-tailer Bauble Bar, when a designer increases their sales by a The recruiting firm is looking at people are calling it ‘mass luxury.’ In where Medine created her signature “arm par-·· certain percent. We don’t need to tell people every channel and every school to un- the long run, how does that impact ties” for sale on the site, or styling Christian how much money we make. We have to be a luxury brand if they open Louboutin shoes in the window of Saks Fifth very conscious. It’s not that we’re being coy multiple channels?” asked Avenue, were very “on brand” for Medine, — when I talk about money people get mad.” Pomerantz. She said it’s not just and the content was cross promoted on each Although not as opposed to branded con- at the highest level malls, but B, brand’s respective site, manrepeller.com and tent as Schuman, Into the Gloss’ Weiss has C and D-level ones. on social media platforms such as Twitter been hesitant about featuring this variety Liebmann added that the and Facebook. She also maintains an affiliate of content in the year-and-a-half since she country already has too many partnership with Shopbop, and the e-tailer, al- launched her beauty blog. Her policy is not of the same stores, and when though it doesn’t pay her in dollars, does give as strict as his (she contends she can count digital comes into the picture, it her a monthly gift card to Shopbop.com. The the number of sponsored posts she’s done feels like even more. “The issue gift card amount is based on the amount of on one hand), but she said the blogger-brand that’s a challenge is the notion traffic and sales Medine drives to the site from line is one she’s tiptoed along with trepida- of the sameness, of no sense of manrepeller.com. tion, until now. specialness. It’s a huge issue. It On the flip side, Weiss counts lead- just gets magnified. It’s like re- there’s The Sartorialist’s I know I’m not an ing brands such as Dior, tailing on 4G. For high end, lux-

Scott Schuman, who L’Oréal, Bumble & bum- GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY ury, where it’s all about scarcity considers himself the editor at The Wall ble and Coach as adver- Celeste Gudas, Wendy Liebmann, Laura Pomerantz and more precious experience, counter to the many tisers on her site, while and Catherine Moellering. it becomes a big issue.” bloggers jumping into Lancôme was the site’s Turning to global business branded partnerships. Street Journal and exclusive first adver- cover talent for its clients. She pointed and recruitment needs, Gudas believes He is adamant about tiser. Most of Weiss’ rev- out that it’s common to bring in young- there’s a lack of talent in the fashion keeping his seven- that’s fine. I don’t have enue comes from ads, er people when it comes to digital. and retail industry, especially strong year-old blog “clean,” and she maintains she’s “That’s because of flexibility. Schools merchandising and creative talent. meaning that it doesn’t to have an unbiased not under contracts are catching up and bringing talent to “We’re not incubating a lot of young tal- contain any sponsored with any companies as the market that’s relevant. If you’re ent in the right way. We’ve got to bring editorial content. point of view. Blogging a brand ambassador. looking for an app designer, you’re that talent up. There’s a lot of uncer- “If I work with some- While the afore- more likely to find that coming out of tainty in the market and a lack of a for- one like Levi’s, who is about subjectivity. mentioned are several school,” she said. “It’s a very dynamic, malized training,” she said. She noted wanted me to shoot examples of the lead- shifting marketplace. I think that tal- that she’s getting more searches in the something a year ago for — LEANDRA MEDINE, ing “pure” bloggers, ent is key, but you can see the divide BRIC countries, as well as the Middle the Curve ID jeans — MAN REPELLER Derek Blasberg, edi- in the skills gap that’s happening.” East. “It’s forcing us to look at more they wanted something tor at large of Harper’s Gudas believes that comfort with multilingual skill sets. We’re also in the more integrated into the Bazaar, V and V Man; digital media needs to start at the relocation business now. Talent has to blog which is a content thing instead of an ad. author, and blogger at Mr Blasberg, part of top. “I think it starts with us as lead- be able to relocate.” I said no to that [and] it was a lot of money. I the now Fairchild Fashion Media-owned ers in an organization. I find it frus- She said Fast Retailing for exam- don’t have a problem taking money for taking NowManifest blog umbrella, embodies the trating when people say, ‘Oh, I don’t ple, sends people to train in Japan pictures to put in an ad — I’m a photographer. new hybrid kind of online journalism from a know technology. I leave it to my kid.’ for six months before placing them in That I have no problem with,” Schuman said, more traditional perspective. It’s up to us. It’s like nails on a black- another location. ultimately calling the situation a win-win. He Blasberg’s work is not limited to the three board for me now...if we’re not using Pomerantz currently has two cli- wound up featuring the Levi’s ads as adver- magazines that he’s “contractually obliged” to it and curating the information and ents from the Middle East who con- tisements on Thesartorialist.com and Style. (he’s a contributor for Garage magazine and pushing that effort in trend spotting trol multiple brands and have stores com featured the shots as part of its editorial compiles a weekly best dressed list for harp- for the organization...” there. They have European brands coverage of the campaign. ersbazaar.com). It’s enabled him to leverage his Tobe’s Moellering said the digital too, and they want to open in the U.S. A similar situation occurred with a project career·· to a point that allows him to straddle the movement is having an enormous im- How did they get to Pomerantz? One Schuman and blogger (as well as real life girl- “traditional” journalist and blogger roles. pact on the company’s trend spotting. found her on the Internet. “They friend) Garance Doré worked on with Tiffany “What’s important to me is that my blog “I suspected runway coverage would want to do 100 stores in the next & Co. Although the two of them declined to is still fun and fabulous, but grounded in be most impacted. The expectation three years. That’s huge. That’s some- feature the images they photographed for the real experience as a fashion professional,” around runway coverage in a digi- thing you can’t do one by one. Or brand’s campaign on their respective blogs, Blasberg said, counting the best part of his tal era is that it’s free. It really has you’ll still be sitting here three years they mentioned the project and were happy to job as that, on one hand, he can work with forced us to look internally at what from now,” she said. have their work live on pop-up sites elsewhere. long lead publications but on the other, he we’re offering to our clients and to As a forecaster, Moellering said Calling his the “first to go after advertis- can go off on his own blog and “say some- decide what is of value.” globalization is very interesting, and ing in a serious way,” Schuman’s blog counts thing that’s entirely from my perspective.” Moellering finds there’s so much technology has been a great motor Style.com as its first advertiser (the site is no While he might interview Lady Gaga or available because of blogs and sources and engine for it. “But I think the fu- longer an advertiser). To date, 75 percent of Daphne Guinness for Harper’s Bazaar or such as Style.com that are free. “What’s ture is moving toward customization. his revenue comes from this channel, with V, he can post personal family pictures or interesting to me was to hear how many I think we all have business models the remaining split among personal appear- snapshots from a night out on Mr Blasberg. top senior executives saying, ‘I get all of that will succeed when we trade ances, print sales, designer collaborations, “Five years ago, if someone called me my runway coverage on Twitter.’” with customization.” the syndication of his images and book sales a blogger I would have probably scoffed and Moellering said she’ll always argue “You hear words like curate, cus- (his second book comes out soon, which been offended. But things have changed and that there’s tremendous value in Tobe tomize, bespoke. You need to use en- might change this percentage by year’s end). it’s a digital world now. If someone calls me a and in its editorial and point of view abling technologies to be able to do He said he’s selective in who he deals with blogger today? I’m flattered and I feel relevant,” about the runway. “But the timeli- that for the customer. That’s the chal- and there’s absolutely “no touching the con- he said. ness about it starts to shift, and where lenge of retailers today,” said Gudas. WWD.COM

Naomi Watts, Lutz Bethge and Jessica Alba. PHOTOS BY SHARRON LOVELL PHOTOS BY Montblanc Opens Largest Store People could recognize us and get to By CAROLYNNE WHEELER know our brand, and that has helped us to become very successful,” said Bethge. BEIJING — Montblanc is invoking the The Sanlitun store’s first installa- spirit of Grace Kelly and the glitz of tion, expected to last through the sum- Monte Carlo to tout its massive new mer, includes interactive film screens flagship in the country’s capital. featuring the inside of the Prince’s The brand’s new concept store, its Palace of Monaco, the Grand Prix and largest to date at 19,375 square feet, the Casino de Monte Carlo, as well as makes its home in a diamond-shaped three screens dedicated to the Princess stand-alone building in luxury develop- Grace Foundation-USA, which received ment Sanlitun Village. On Friday, exec- a donation at the collection’s launch utives and celebrities including Jessica and receives a portion of its proceeds. Alba and Naomi Watts assembled to “We found that China and Japan fete the store and its inaugural installa- have this huge fondness for her,” said tion dedicated to the brand’s Princesse Toby Boshak, the New York-based ex- Grace de Monaco collection of jewelry, ecutive director of the Princess Grace watches and writing instruments. Awards, who attended the opening. “It’s really quite a step. It’s not about “This has been a long time in the mak- the size, it’s about a concept. I believe ing. It has turned out beautifully.” in today’s world, customers “I didn’t know about want to select very carefully,” Grace Kelly before,” admit- Montblanc chief executive of- ted the doe-eyed Lynn Hung, ficer Lutz Bethge said in an in- known in Mandarin as Xiong terview. “We thought that might Dailin, offering that she had be a unique opportunity to cre- heard of Diana, Princess of ate a platform for our custom- Wales. But the young actress ers to get close to our brand.” was taken with the delicate, Against the dramatic back- trailing diamond and pink drop of a re-created Casino sapphire petal necklace and de Monte Carlo, Watts, Alba, bracelet she modeled for Nicolas Cage, Amber Heard, the event, which she said Maggie Cheung, Chinese ac- would undoubtedly appeal to tress Lynn Hung and model Chinese women. Emma Pei walked the red The collection includes in- carpet for the opening night terlocking, diamond-studded event, each speaking briefly petals in bracelets and rings, to the invitation-only crowd and a four-petal design in- of about 1,000. spired by scattered rose pet- A full orchestra, beplumed Nicolas Cage als, with tiny diamonds evok- dancers, and impersonators ing droplets of dew. Many portraying Cary Grant, Alfred pieces are limited editions. Hitchcock, Elvis Presley, Marilyn Monroe The concept store opening comes at a and Kelly herself entertained the crowd time of some uncertainty in China’s lux- — though the impersonators were met ury market. With the country’s economy largely with polite silence, perhaps not slowing, sales growth is expected to do the surprising in a country that spent most of same, as evidenced by competitor Tiffany, that era closed to the outside world. which has cut its earnings forecast in part Montblanc, part of Compagnie because of Asia’s slowing economies. Financière Richemont SA, opened But Bethge, who declined to reveal its first store in China in the early sales figures, is resolute in his optimism Nineties, tapping into a culture where for Montblanc’s China performance. corporate gifts such as watches and The country has been Montblanc’s larg- ornate pens are customary. The brand est market since 2008, a position that is now has about 100 stores in mainland not expected to change. China operating in more than 40 cit- “In the end I believe in the luxury ies stretching from Harbin in the north industry…we are artisans, we are crafts- to Shenzhen, on the border with Hong men. We are creating gifts. Montblanc is Kong in the south. The Sanlitun concept creating lifetime companions,” Bethge store opened earlier this year. said. “You have to distinguish between “[China’s gift-giving culture] is what the long term and the short term. I be- has created the success for us in China. lieve in the long term, this market will continue to strive forward. I believe in the entrepre- neurship of the people here and in the economy. “Even if at some point in time there will be a dip in the China mar- ket…in the long term, I see China as a continuing, Stars on the red carpet. huge opportunity for us,” he said. ART/WORK: Talking art and fashion with Olivier Theyskens.. WWDSTYLE PAGE 14. MEMO PAD REMNICK’S CRYSTAL BALL: On Monday, David Remnick sat with Charlie Rose on CBS’ “This Morning” for an old-hat Glam Yankee discussion: What will The New LIBERTY STATE PARK, N.J. — Dree Hemingway Yorker look like in the future? Much like it looks now, Remnick and her fitted cap put an American spin on told Rose. “I want it to be in many that most British of sports as the annual Veuve ways what it’s always been, which is about depth and beauty and Clicquot Polo Classic moved its act to New Jersey spending a lot of time on particular over the weekend. For more, see page 14. stories,” Remnick said. The editor was booked late last week to discuss the state of print media and his magazine’s evolution, a spokeswoman for the network said. He was naturally bullish about its prospects, but the producers didn’t seem as sure, perhaps mindful of the recent decision by New Yorker parent Advance Publications to trim the frequency of several of its daily newspapers. They titled the segment ominously, “An Uncertain Future.” Remnick insisted the only way the New Yorker is changing is the way it’s read. “I think the publications on the Web, on digital platforms and in print that people really want are going to survive and thrive. The New Yorker is something people have proven over and over that they really want,” Remnick said. In the future, it’ll just be available in more gadgets. “Soon you’ll be able to read it entirely on your handheld. Is that the absolute best way to read it? For some people it may be,” he said. “I’ve seen people read a Dickens novel on their 3-inch handheld. God love ’em.” Remnick was referring to the magazine’s upcoming smartphone app, which will be the first for a Condé Nast publication. It should be released in the fall, though an exact date has not been set, a magazine spokeswoman said. New technologies — tablets, mobile devices and the Web — have created an opportunity, not a challenge, Remnick told Rose. The magazine has generated 50,000 new subscriptions just on tablets, including the iPad and the Kindle Fire, he said. Less clear is how access to the magazine will change in the future. Print subscribers now have access to its archives and its tablet and digital editions. But Condé Nast is working to change the subscription model company- wide. What will that mean for The New Yorker? Will readers have to pay more for a subscription that bundles digital, print and mobile? Will the magazine’s archives, now included in a subscription, be separated? Remnick was not asked specifics, but he reiterated a point he has made before: producing The New Yorker is costly, and reading that work will come with a hefty fee. “You cannot get these stories for free,” he said. “I cannot give you everything on the Internet for free and make you think, ‘Well, The New Yorker PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND is something that comes out of the faucet.’” — ERIK MAZA 14 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012 FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye. Jennifer Morrison eye and Jason Wu

Mount Up Coco Rocha

CELEBS AND POLO enthusiasts I’m English, I always dress the event. “I figure there’s a alike made the trek to New inappropriately for the weather.” goal and they’re trying to score Jersey’s Liberty State Park The girl about town was on that goal. How complicated on Saturday to take in the feeling especially aware of her can it be?” annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Brit status: “Polo is quite English Jason Wu, who was parked Classic where co-host Nacho so this is all making me a bit on an umbrella-shaded couch, Figueras’ team Black Watch homesick. As it’s the Queen’s could commiserate. went head-to-head against Jubilee, I feel like I should be “I did a ceremonial ball Team Espresso. Revelers really being patriotic on my home soil throw once but I’m definitely got into the spirit, sartorially but this is a close second.” not known for my athletic speaking, with prim tea dresses, Delevingne, perhaps due skills,” the designer said. “It’s floppy beach hats and terrain- to her transatlantic roots, was just nice to take it all in, I love friendly footwear. much more up to speed on the the mood of it all. It’s very “I went for these because I basics of the sport than others. resort.” Speaking of which, how needed a bit of a chunky heel “I don’t really know the was that going? for the grass,” Poppy Delevingne rules. I’m learning as I watch,” “I’m pretty much finished Minka Kelly explained, motioning to her said Dree Hemingway, whose so I can relax and have some Rachel Zoe in Z Spoke. glittery Givenchy wedges. boyfriend Phil Windsor of Fat Champagne,” Wu said. “I was expecting rain but as Radish, provided the bites for — TAYLOR HARRIS

Charlotte Poppy Padma Lakshmi Ronson Jessica Stam Delevingne PHOTOS BY LEXIE MORELAND PHOTOS BY

chemical, a bit of magic…but it has to be like spice. Sometimes I feel something more intense Theyskens’ Art Theory and I feel there is probably an increase of talent input,

OLIVIER THEYSKENS CAN and his takes on fashion, art and and art. Many designers have TOM ALLEN PHOTO BY suddenly, a good thing going on, watch the new home of the where the two intersect. built relationships with artists, and suddenly the level of design Whitney Museum being built — ALESSANDRA CODINHA which is not something I gets elevated. So I try to be as he works. On a warm spring personally did. But it’s true, sensitive to these kind of things. day last week, the designer was WWD: Are there any new artists sometimes you see artists facing out from the steel and in particular that you’re working for a designer or a brand WWD: There seem to be two glass conference room in the interested in right now? on some specific project or arguments: one being that Theory Meatpacking District Olivier Theyskens: That’s where taking care of their environment fashion is art, reflecting headquarters and tapping the I think it’s great to be involved and making an amazing store. changes in contemporary glass with a finger. Theyskens with an institution like the You have great partnerships culture, the other that it’s a indicated the frame of the Whitney. For me, it’s very happening and popping up creative business, and that’s it. museum taking form a few blocks hard — I never feel like I’m between the art scene and O.T.: Well, art is the way people south on Gansevoort Street, experienced enough to spot one the fashion scene. I think also Olivier Theyskens see things, and I think it’s great near the alternate atelier where particular person as a great new that you have designers that when individuals can find in he works on the collections for artist. I feel like [the Whitney have methodology that can be Theyskens: The Other Side of fashion something they truly Theory that also carry his name. Museum] is a great tool, it’s so sort of artistic. Personally, I the Picture” is a collection of believe is artistic. And I think It’s fitting then that Theyskens strong and instrumental in the have had sometimes moments backstage photographs from sometimes you have artists who will be an honorary cochair profile of new artists, and the where I thought my idea behind various Theyskens shows] refers are not conscious of how artistic for the annual Whitney Art way they support [them]. So I the idea of a collection — the to you as a “conceptual artist,” they are....To me, I’m the kind of Party on Wednesday at Skylight think it’s good that we are able concept maybe — something rather than fashion designer. person who never really likes to Soho. (That Theory has pledged to help an institution that is that we don’t see at the end on O.T.: Because he doesn’t see me put a fence between things. But support for the annual party finding out who will count in the the catwalk, I think the way it working every day! [laughs] If as a person who is in women’s surely has something to do future — who I as an individual was, the genesis in my mind, he saw me working every day fashion, as someone who is a with it as well.) Funds raised would not be able to spot. was probably artistic, an artistic the dream would just go like, part of a company like Theory, will go toward the Whitney’s approach. But I still keep, you ‘Pfft!’ No, I think it’s important supporting an event connected Independent Study program. WWD: You have the reputation know, sort of distance between to keep the way you see things with art doesn’t mean we’re Theyskens took some time from as an artist in your own right what is fashion and what is art. highly sensitive to beauty, to artists. It means we’re a brand, finishing up his resort collection with your designs. concepts, to, you know, things a fashion brand, and we’re to speak with WWD about his O.T.: I think the relationship is WWD: Well, Julien Claessens that are not necessarily so proud to support an event involvement with the museum very tenuous, between fashion [whose Assouline book “Olivier concrete: at the end it makes a on the arts scene. WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012 15 WWD.COM

McQueen jacket. The concert featured among its followers — on T-shirts and performances by artists such as Stevie other products. It has been working with FASHION SCOOPS Wonder, Sir Elton John, Kylie Minogue, Jessie J Gap for two seasons. and Dame Shirley Bassey. Madness performed The shop will remain in place through on the roof of Buckingham Palace, singing June 30, and on Thursday, Threadless will “Our House.” — SAMANTHA CONTI host an event there featuring several of the artists and its chief executive officer, The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge and Prince Harry. AKRIS GOES E-TAIL: Akris has jumped on the Tom Ryan. The shop features 16 men’s e-commerce bandwagon. The company and 10 women’s designs that retail for launched an e-commerce site Friday $29.95. Top sellers so far include The in the U.S. at akris.ch, serving up both Neopolitan and Music Makes Me Happy a digital brand and retail experience. for women and Soundwaves and Baldie Akris, a third-generation family business for men. The offering includes toddler based in St. Gallen, Switzerland, is and baby pieces for the first time as well. celebrating its 90th anniversary this — JEAN E. PALMIERI summer. The site is open initially to the U.S. market, with Europe and Japan SEAFOLLY’S NEW FACE: Victoria’s Secret to follow in the fall. Akris currently is Angel Behati Prinsloo has been named available internationally in about 600 Seafolly’s 2013 Ambassador. The Australian points of distribution. swimwear brand has tapped fellow Angel The e-commerce boutique has been Miranda Kerr, as well as models Jessica Hart designed in collaboration with King & and Marloes Horst as past ambassadors. This PHOTO BY DAVE THOMPSON/PA WIRE/PRESS ASSOCIATION IMAGES WIRE/PRESS ASSOCIATION THOMPSON/PA DAVE PHOTO BY Partners and is driven by Resolute Digital. year’s campaign, shot last month by David According to Albert Kriemler, Akris Gubert in Palm Springs, Calif., will break in designer and creative director, visitors international publications on July 1. The can view a portfolio of his sketches, as new collection will bow at the Miami Swim well as steps in the development of two Show July 21 to 24. — MARCY MEDINA Akris signature materials: double-face and horsehair. “Akris Insider” features a GIRLS ON FILM: Matthew Williamson will mark blog and social-media hub inhabited by his 15th anniversary this fall with a two- news and musings from the house. Within minute film that features some old hits the e-commerce boutique, a full range — and new ones. The short, sponsored by THE BUCKINGHAM BUNCH: “Her Majesty After McCartney’s performance, of Akris categories is offered from the Swarovski, will feature 30 of Williamson’s asks that at the end of the concert, you Prince Charles paid tribute to his mother Akris and Akris Punto collections, as well favorite models wearing a mix of archive leave in an orderly fashion, or else — and his father: “The only sad thing as handbags, jewelry, scarves and small pieces, as well as three new designs made she’ll be forced to unleash the corgis,” about this evening is that my father leather pieces. for the anniversary. The film — and the said Sir Paul McCartney as he stripped couldn’t be here with us,” the prince “Every detail of the site is designed to be three new dresses — will be unveiled in off his Union Jack-lined jacket; waved told the crowds and his fellow guests refined and understated, and to mirror the October, and will be exclusive to Net-a- it at the crowds; pulled out his red, onstage, including the Queen, the retail experience of Akris,” Kriemler said. porter.com. Williamson will hold a launch white and blue guitar, and began Duchess of Cornwall, McCartney, Sir Tom — LISA LOCKWOOD event for the film in London in the fall. — S.C. singing “Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da” at the Jones, Annie Lennox and Elton John. “He close of the Diamond Jubilee concert has unfortunately been taken ill, but TURNING TO TODD: Gap has teamed SO LONG, SYKES: Joanna Sykes, design at Buckingham Palace. On Monday if we shout loud enough, he might with men’s wear designer Todd Snyder director of Aquascutum, will leave evening, artists from every decade of just hear us in hospital.” The crowds for its latest pop-up shop. Snyder, an her role at the end of the month, the the Queen’s 60-year reign performed responded at once, chanting “Phil-ip! alumni of Gap and J. Crew, helped with company said. Sykes joined Aquascutum for a crowd of 20,000 who had gathered Phil-ip! Phil-ip!” the installation and curation of the in May 2010 and garnered a string on the Mall and in London’s adjoining Charles paid tribute to the Queen, temporary shop on Fifth Avenue and of positive reviews for her clean, parks on the third day of the Diamond whom he addressed as “Your Majesty, 54th Street in New York, which offers the minimal, modernist collections. Tim Jubilee celebrations. Mummy” and going on to profess summer collection of Gap + Threadless. Dally, Aquascutum’s new chief executive The only down note came earlier his duty. The Queen, dressed in a Threadless is a Chicago-based company officer said her departure was a mutually in the day from the Queen’s husband, embroidered gold dress, had tears in that works with emerging artists to agreed decision. “It is very early days Prince Philip, who was hospitalized for a her eyes during the speech and while produce unique T-shirt designs. for us as a new management team, but bladder infection. Buckingham Palace the crowds sang “God Save the Queen.” “I presented the idea to Gap,” said we will shortly announce structural said the prince, who was looking Later, she lit the national beacon Snyder, noting that his motivation was changes that will focus the business and hale and healthy during Sunday’s with the Jubilee Crystal Diamond to publicize the work of talented but ensure the longevity of this incredible flotilla on the Thames, was in stable and watched a fireworks display over little-known artists. “Art doesn’t get the British heritage brand,” he said. Last condition. He was taken to King Buckingham Palace, which was lit up attention it needs,” he said. “But this month, Hong Kong-based YGM Trading Edward VII Hospital in London from in red, white and blue lights. brings their art to life.” purchased the U.K. arm of Aquascutum, Windsor Castle on Monday afternoon Royal guests at the concert included Threadless works with more than and now owns 100 percent of the brand. as a precautionary measure, and the Duke of York, the Duke and Duchess of 200,000 artists who submit more than 300 Dally, who took up his role last month, will remain in the hospital under Cambridge and Prince Harry. The Duchess designs a day to the site, Snyder said. was previously head of TPD Luxury observation for a few days, a palace donned a blue and purple print dress Each week, Threadless prints the top six Solutions Ltd., the global Aquascutum spokeswoman said. from Whistles and an Alexander to eight designs — those voted highest golf license holder. — S.C. Monetizing the Luxury Experience ger need new things and are spending By VICKI M. YOUNG on experiences. I Gen Y: This group defines themselves For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. EXPERIENTIAL LUXURY is gaining a more by what they have done than what stronger foothold in the minds of consum- they own, and are drawn to instant pleasure. ers than discretionary spending on high- I Satisfaction: Luxury experiences ful- end goods just for the sake of ownership. fill the wishes of consumers who are That’s the conclusion of a study seeking a greater sense of purpose and Spaces on “Luxe Redux: Raising the Bar for satisfaction. Selling of Luxuries” from the Boston China remains the luxury growth Consulting Group. market due to the growth in the number COMMERCIAL According to Jean-Marc Bellaiche, of millionaires, noted Bellaiche, who REAL ESTATE ACCESSORIES-SOCKS-HOSIERY-TIGHTS If Growth and/or Profits is your Goal PRODUCTION/SOURCING a senior partner at BCG, experiential said the nation’s 50 million millionaires or Just need a Tune-Up, I am avail as Madison Ave Intimate Co. seek min 3 luxury now makes up almost 55 percent will nearly triple to 145 million by 2020. President-CEO or VP Sales yrs exp w/Vendor knowledge& costing. Send Job Requirements- contact info. 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Bellaiche also noted Private office. brands before transitioning to buying that Amazon has 20 percent of the U.S. Call 213-798-9990 new experiences. Emerging markets, e-commerce business, yet many luxury SPACE AVAILABLE IN MIDTOWN NYC SALES EXECUTIVE ...... $ TO 150K due to their higher percentage of mid- brands that BCG works with are sur- 2-room office suite/showroom w abun- Mens Furnishings, Off priced/Mid Tier dance of natural light. 525 Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 dle-class consumers becoming more af- prised by how big a player Amazon is. /$2250/month. Tel: 212-354-0979 or [email protected] fluent, have a higher concentration of BCG projected that global sales of per- Email: [email protected] shoppers seeking branded goods. sonal luxury goods will grow 7 percent an- I Demographics: Consumers from the nually between 2012 and 2014, provided developed countries, such as much of there are no major new economic crises. Europe, the U.S. and Japan, who drove Luxury experiences are projected to grow (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] the luxury boom in the Nineties, no lon- 12 percent a year over the next two years. 16 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 5, 2012 WWD.COM Mizrahi In New Sportswear Deal Brooks Brothers, Reliance sensibility to that customer. full-time designers and a chief By LISA LOCKWOOD “[The customer] attributes a merchant overseeing all the Partner for Stores in India great deal to value in that cat- Mizrahi products. NEW YORK — Isaac Mizrahi is egory. So do I. I notice the qual- D’Loren said he looked at {Continued from page one} international business development back in the better sportswear ity and how great something all the players out there and director for the Asia-Pacific region for Reliance Brands. U.S. brands ac- game at department stores. looks. I’ll try to bring [fashion] got excited about the fact that about two years ago. “This was the count for $2 billion of that figure, a Xcel Brands Inc., which forward even more.” Jump had domestic produc- logical next step,” said Mehta. number that is expected to jump to embarked on a licensing Mizrahi said color will be tion capability. “Inventory Paulette Garafolo, president of $5.5 billion by 2015. India currently spree for Mizrahi last fall, has important in the various ap- management is critical,” said international, wholesale and manu- has about 5 million households with signed an exclusive agree- parel collections. “You can’t D’Loren, and the fact that facturing for Brooks Brothers, called annual income of $85,000, whose ment with The Jump Apparel get enough color. Now for Jump could source in the U.S. India “the next China. There’s a lot members actively purchase premium Group here to manufacture me, it’s so gratifying that ev- clinched the deal. D’Loren of wealth and a large middle class. and luxury products, he said. It also and distribute sportswear, eryone really wants color. It’s declined to reveal first-year That plays into Brooks Brothers’ has 50 million households character- dresses and suiting under one of my strongest suits. The sales. He said the lines would strength. There’s a huge profes- ized as middle class, and that num- the Isaac Mizrahi New York brand stands for color. I think be housed in better areas of sional community, much larger than ber is expected to reach 583 million brand. The collections, one thing I’ll always try to department stores and would China’s, the educational level is by 2025, he said. India was ranked which will be geared to bring to the party is a be priced competitively to much higher and it’s a democracy.” fourth in the world in purchasing the better market, will be classic, ageless wit.” Michael Michael Kors and Mehta said the country counts a power parity, and is expected to jump introduced for spring Although Mizrahi Lauren by Ralph Lauren. large number of “gold-collar profes- to number two, after China, by 2050. 2013 retailing. has designed sports- The Jump Apparel Group, sionals — top level people earning According to Tushar Poddar, Since Xcel wear for a mainstream which was founded by Glenn world-class salaries.” Many of these managing director and chief India Brands acquired audience before, this Schlossberg in 1990, produces people have been educated in the economist at Goldman Sachs, India Mizrahi’s licens- will mark the first 11 women’s brands ranging U.S. or the U.K., “so the recognition will play an increasing role in the ing business in time he is designing from moderately priced to bet- of Brooks Brothers is very high.” global economy as demand from a September for $31.5 suits for the better ter dresses and sportswear for Brooks Brothers operates 210 growing working-age population million, the company market. “The idea is juniors, misses’, petite and plus stores in the U.S., and 200 in other will continue to drive consump- has inked 31 licensing that there is a new suit sizes, to career, casualwear, countries, including Korea, Japan, tion. He projects that India will deals in 70 categories, out there. Everyone loves evening and special occasion. China, Taiwan, Singapore, France, add about 100 million workers to including handbags, eye- a blazer and skirt, and I’ll The company ships more than the U.K., Chile, Canada, Italy, Mexico its labor force over the next few de- wear, shoes, fragrance be making those, but I see four million garments a year and Greece. Garafolo said that with cades, more than the U.S., China, and men’s wear. This fall, a Windbreaker suit, a mis- with more than half its pro- the exception of Japan, also a joint Russia and Japan combined. the designer will intro- matched suit. I see a lot of duction in the U.S. Among its venture, all of Brooks Brothers’ other There are concerns, however. duce collections for ac- ways to offer a new suit in labels are Blu Sage, Onyx Nite, international associations are either Crisil Research, an indepen- cessories, denim, home, wool blends, stretch cot- Scooter Top, Jump Girl, Marina licensing deals or run by operating dent research house in India, on outerwear, bridalwear, tons and French terry,” and Annalee + Hope. partners. “But we believe India has Monday lowered India’s gross do- infantwear, housewares, said Mizrahi. Schlossberg, ceo, told such long-term growth potential, we mestic product growth forecast for tabletop and the kitch- “It’s very exciting. WWD he was drawn to the created a joint venture,” he said. 2012 to 2013 to 6.5 percent from its en bearing the Isaac Things are moving much Mizrahi name. Mehta said that under current estimate of 7 percent in March, due Mizrahi New York label. faster than we thought,” “The number-one appeal Indian law, a foreign company can in part to risks of a recession from In an interview said Robert D’Loren, was brand recognition. own up to 51 percent of a mono- the euro zone that would result in Monday, Mizrahi said he’s chairman and chief execu- Everyone knows Isaac brand retail business. However, the slowing export demand, domestic excited about the prospect tive officer of Xcel Brands. Mizrahi. He has sophisticated, government is considering chang- policy logjam and a limited fiscal of designing for the He said the company clean styling, and it matched ing the regulation to allow non-In- action to stimulate the economy. better market and A sketch for Isaac has a design team up with our company’s dian companies to own 100 percent Jean-Marc Bellaiche, senior part- bringing his design Mizrahi New York that includes 28 theme,” said Schlossberg. of their retail businesses in India. ner at Boston Consulting Group, He said the first Brooks Brothers said Monday, “Fifteen years ago, ev- stores will open in Chandigarh, eryone was talking about growth in Elante and Delhi later this year. China and India. Today, India is still OBITUARY The Chandigarh unit will be behind China. Growth [in consumer 3,600-square-feet in a new luxury spending] has to come with change mall currently being built by Larsen in the infrastructure [such as more Joseph M. Haggar Jr., 87 & Toubro. The other two units will malls and different retail formats].” be 1,800 square feet. Bellaiche said one important logisti- including finished bottoms Mehta said the Chandigarh cal problem concerns how to deliver By ARNOLD J. KARR and its Expandomatic waist- store will be an anchor in the mall, goods to the consumer. Improved band. Like many companies which he said “has the potential to roadwork is a necessity to enable JOSEPH M. Haggar Jr., who in the bottoms business, it be one of the finest malls in India. consumers to move from one place headed Haggar Corp. for enjoyed the benefits of the And we have a great location.” to another. “Long term, there is a two decades and was instru- double-knit polyester leisure Chandigarh is “one of the markets big opportunity in India. Right now mental in a number of inno- suit boom of the Seventies that sets trends,” he added, and has there is about a seven- to 10-year vations in the men’s casual but, unlike quite a few, man- one of the highest per capita income year lag between where China and slacks market, died June 1 aged to survive the catego- levels in the country. “The local cus- Brazil are at [among the emerging of heart disease at his home ry’s “bust” cycle, rebound- tomer there embraces new brands,” markets] and India,” Bellaiche said. in Dallas. He was 87. ing through an emphasis on to become mayor of Dallas, al- he said. “And it actually has a winter. Mehta acknowledged the issues The son of company found- slacks that were dressier and, though his health deteriorat- The weather in India is usually hot or with the Indian infrastructure, and er Joseph Haggar, known as through its Gallery subbrand, ed toward the end of last year. raining, but Chandigarh has two sea- said the country’s well-educated con- “J.M.,” and younger brother more fashionable. Rawlings previously served sons which should be good for selling sumers, who have gained exposure to of longtime company head “Like all the Haggars, Joe as ceo of Pizza Hut and of coats and suits.” international brands while traveling Edmond Haggar, Haggar was such a gentleman and Haggar’s longtime advertising For the first season, the stores or in the media, are also seeking a served as president and chief so positive,” Alan Burks, for- agency, TracyLocke. will carry men’s wear exclusive- better shopping experience. executive officer of the com- mer chief marketing officer Late in his life, Joseph ly, including the Thom Browne- Calling Brooks Brothers “an pany from 1971 until 1991 and of Haggar and now chair- Jr. earned an odd historical designed Black Fleece collection. immensely distinguished heritage retired as chairman in 1995. man and ceo of Brands Make footnote when tapes were re- Women’s and children’s wear will brand,” he said the challenge is His son Joseph 3rd, known Money LLC, a Dallas-based leased of a phone conversation be added next year. “how to reach consumers, not the universally as “Joe Three,” marketing firm, told WWD. he had with President Lyndon Mehta said that within 10 years, existence of consumers. So when succeeded him as ceo, a post “His reaction to just about B. Johnson in 1964. Haggar re- the joint venture could potentially we set up the stores, we believe he held until 2005 when the everything was, ‘We can get peatedly answered “yes, sir” operate as many as 100 stores. But the pent-up demand exists. But with business, publicly held begin- this done.’ He could work in as LBJ requested pants from first phase will target the most inter- fashion brands, you need to be in ning in 1992, was sold to an the upper echelons of govern- Haggar and gave specific and national cities: Delhi, Chandigarh and the correct market with the right investment consortium for ment and industry and relate occasionally intimate details Ludhiana in the North; Bangalore, adjacencies.” about $212 million. It is now just as well to a guy on the about his anatomy and how Chennai (formerly Madras), and He said Brooks Brothers is a known as Haggar Clothing Co. loading dock. The Haggars he needed to be fitted, at one Hyderabad in the South; Bombay, “very classic brand” that will pro- After serving in the U.S. are the biggest bunch of reg- point punctuating his detailed Dune and Ahmedabad in the West, vide “a ladder to luxury” in the Navy during World War II ular-guy multimillionaires request with a loud belch. and Kolkatta in the East. country. “Everyone has heard of and obtaining an engineering you’ll ever meet. There was Any offense Haggar might “These are the 10 cities with the Brooks Brothers,” he said. “The big- degree from the University of just no pretense whatsoever.” have taken was in all likeli- purchasing power and aspirations ger challenge is that the stores live Notre Dame, Haggar headed A two-term Dallas city hood mitigated by Johnson’s [for international brands],” Mehta up to the expectations. Brands are the firm’s production and councilman with a trim phy- proclamation that Haggar said. “That’s our footprint.” constantly evolving, and we need to operations, often racing sique and a love of golf and pants he’d worn previously Because these cities are so present it in the most contemporary to get new ideas to market hunting, Haggar worked tire- were “the best I’ve had any- large — Mehta said small cities in way in our store design, format and before the firm’s archrival lessly and decisively for the where in the United States.” India house 1 million people and product offering.” Texas competitor, Farah bond project that led to the In addition to his son, large ones around 12 to 15 million Reliance Industries Ltd., is India’s Manufacturing Co. of El Paso. construction of the Dallas/ Haggar is survived by his — the companies could easily op- largest private-sector company, with The company was a primary Fort Worth International wife, the former Isabell erate numerous stores in each city. sales of $66.8 billion and profits of mover in the shift to perma- Airport. According to his Salloum; daughters Lydia India’s luxury market is currently $3.9 billion. It ranks 119th among the nent press in the Fifties and son, he was actively involved Novakov and Marian Bryan; estimated at around $6 billion and Fortune Global 500 companies. pioneered developments in last spring in helping Mike a sister, Rosemary Vaughan, growing at 20 percent a year, ac- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS convenience and comfort, Rawlings in his successful bid and eight grandchildren. cording to Sumeet Yadav, head of FROM VICKI M. YOUNG