NO MORE IDOL RUMORS/2 GAP NET LEAPS 94.1 PERCENT/6 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ DailyFRIDAY Newspaper • November 21, 2003 • $2.00 Beauty The Naked Truth NEW YORK — The Healing Garden is budding again. The aromatherapy line is heading into botanical-based body treatments with new anticellulite and body- toning creams. Due on counter in March, the products could yield retail sales of $12 million to $15 million annually. For more, see page 11.

Trade War Fears Grow Over U.S. Quotas on Chinese Imports By Kristi Ellis and John Zarocostas continued Thursday. In Beijing, U.S. crackdown on imports in 2005, WASHINGTON — The retaliation begins. Chinese authorities turned up the when the World Trade Organization

Y BRYN KENNY The fallout from the Bush volume of their protestations, while is set to drop all quotas on textiles administration’s decision to impose in Geneva, trade representatives of and apparel. safeguard quotas on select other developing nations fretted In a sign that the safeguard issue categories of Chinese imports about the possibility of a broader See Chinese, Page 14 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED B PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003 WWDFRIDAY Kors Concludes Idol Chatter Beauty By Lisa Lockwood BEAUTY Coty Beauty, which brought aromatherapy to the mass market in 1997, is NEW YORK — One of the fashion industry’s worst- kept secrets was finally confirmed Thursday when 11 progressing with plans to evolve The Healing Garden beyond the bath. John D. Idol, chairman and chief executive officer Under its recently formed Anew Clinical franchise, Avon has said it wants to of Kasper A.S.L., was named ceo of Michael Kors 11 develop products that will deliver dermatologist-like treatments at home. (USA) Inc., effective Dec. 2. Idol will become a partner in the firm along with Silas Chou, Michael Kors and Lawrence Stroll. He GENERAL will oversee day-to-day operations and will be re- China turned up the volume of protests to the Bush administration’s plan to sponsible for the substantial growth planned for 1 impose safeguard quotas on certain categories of Chinese imports. Michael Kors Collection and the soon-to-be- launched Michael Michael Kors brand. One of the industry’s worst-kept secrets was confirmed Thursday when PHOTO MARY HILLIARD BY Kasper chairman and ceo John D. Idol was named ceo of Michael Kors (USA). “At this point in my career, I wanted to be in- Lawrence Stroll, John Idol, Silas Chou and Michael Kors 2 volved with a brand that has the exponential oppor- on Tuesday. WWD takes a glimpse of holiday windows — a Manhattan retail tradition, tunity to grow,” said Idol in an interview Thursday 4 their storytelling visages a kind of lost art. at Kors headquarters. Aided by an infusion of capi- men’s and accessories products — which key retail tal and new management, Kors’ overall wholesale partners have previewed — will debut at retail in With a parade of fall fashion hits to its credit, Gap Inc. continued to make volume is expected to reach $1 billion over the next fall 2004. The line shares the same philosophy as 6 huge strides in its comeback as third-quarter profits nearly doubled. several years, he said. Kors’ signature collection, which is polished SUZY:Celebrating with Queen Sofia of Spain…Queen Elizabeth’s party for Reports have circulated for eight months that Idol American sportswear. 16 the Bushes…A sticky wicket for Kate Moss and Jefferson Hack. would join Kors once his deal to sell the bankrupt Kors, who was in Europe and couldn’t be reached Obituary...... 13 Kasper was wrapped up. Kasper’s reorganization for comment, said in a statement: “I met John almost plan, as well as the closing of the purchase agree- a year ago and obviously his stellar reputation had Classified Advertisements...... 15 ment by Jones Apparel Group for Kasper’s assets, is preceded him, but I was duly impressed when we To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is effective Dec. 1. As reported, at that time, Idol will actually sat down for the first time. He’s a great [email protected], using the individual's name. walk away with a windfall of $14.5 million for his ef- asset, and we cannot wait to get started.” WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2003 forts in turning around Kasper’s business operations. Chou told WWD, “We’ve known John for many FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Idol declined comment on whether he was in- years. Everything in life is timing.” He said he was VOLUME 186, NO. 107. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and vesting in the new partnership at Kors, but spoke willing to wait several months until Idol could ex- holidays with one additional issue every month except July and two additional issues in April and September and three in August) by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New enthusiastically about his newest venture. tricate himself from Kasper. “He had a legal obli- York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. “The Michael Kors brand has really been un- gation and a personal obligation. The timing is Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human touched. Michael’s done an amazing job the last 22 right,” said Chou. Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General Manager, years building the Collection part of the business,” Last January, Chou and Stroll, through their Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. said Idol. The immediate game plan is to build the company Sportswear Holdings Limited, bought an Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096- Collection business through enhanced shop-in- estimated 85 percent of Michael Kors LLC for a re- RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. shops, freestanding retail stores, and more ported $100 million. They purchased the one-third FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR European business, while rapidly expanding Kors’ stake in Kors’ business held by LVMH Moët DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is vision into a new “affordable luxury” line called Hennessy Louis Vuitton; 10 percent from Onward required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Michael Michael Kors, he said. Kashiyama USA, and the remainder owned by John correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, The Michael Michael Kors line of women’s, Continued on page 13 please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Nordstrom Net Soars 146.8% TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. By Dan Burrows quarter. The loss, however, was 14 Indeed, Nordstrom has cents less than analysts had pro- comped up for six straight NEW YORK — Nordstrom Inc. is jected. Sales slipped 1.7 percent months, and the outlook for back in the fast lane, building its to $1.76 billion from $1.79 billion, November is a 2 to 4 percent In Brief bottom line even more rapidly while comps declined 2 percent. same-store sales increase. More- than sales. But at Nordstrom, the strong over, Nordstrom has benefited The Seattle-based better de- sales improvement, as well as from comp growth across all ● NEW TO AMEREX: The Amerex Group said Renee McGovern partment store chain could seem- fewer markdowns, allowed the markets and a wide selection of has joined the company as president of its women’s and men’s ingly do no wrong in the third store to leverage a 180 basis-point merchandise categories. group, replacing Kevin Mahoney, who has left the outerwear quarter as it more than doubled improvement in gross margin “Geographically, all of our re- maker. She reports to chief executive Glenn Palmer. Most re- its profits on robust overall and and a 110 basis-point reduction gions posted positive comp- cently, McGovern was president of Liz Claiborne’s special mar- same-store sales growth. in selling, general and adminis- store increases,” said chief fi- kets Village and Axcess brands. Adam Berkman has taken the For the three months ended trative costs. Taken together, the nancial officer Michael Koppel post of chief financial officer, succeeding Bob Almerini, who Nov. 1, the firm said net income greater efficiency accounted for on the call. “The strongest per- also left. Berkman previously worked at Accruent Inc., a con- skyrocketed 146.8 percent to the large disparity between bot- forming categories were cosmet- tract management software company he cofounded. $45.5 million, or 33 cents a dilut- tom- and top-line growth. ics, accessories, women’s active ed share, which shot past the “The results of the past two apparel, women’s designer ap- ● ANN’S IMPROVED ATTITUDE: Moody’s Investors Service lift- Wall Street consensus estimate quarters are exactly the kind of parel, men’s wear and shoes.” ed the outlook for Ann Taylor Stores Corp. to “positive” from by 11 cents. That compares to performance we hoped to at- Koppel added that the lower “stable” and affirmed the existing ratings on about $199 million last year’s earnings of $18.4 mil- tain,” said president Blake Nord- SG&A expenses “reflected of the specialty retailer’s debt. The revision “reflects Ann lion, or 14 cents. strom on a conference call with progress sustaining a higher Taylor’s improved operating performance, which has resulted in Net sales for the period grew analysts. In the previous quarter, level of spending discipline.” the company becoming a net generator of cash and in a conse- 7.4 percent to $1.42 billion from Nordstrom’s profits and sales in- As for ongoing speculation quent buildup of balance sheet cash,” Moody’s said, adding that $1.32 billion a year ago, and com- creased 81.3 percent and 8.4 per- that Nordstrom may be intent on “operations have improved over the past year with the success- parable-store sales increased an cent, respectively, and comps acquiring some of the 32 Lord & ful repositioning of Loft, Ann Taylor’s growth concept.” above-plan 5 percent. were up 3.9 percent. Taylor stores being exited by At the other end of the per- “Driving volume has been a May Department Stores Co., ● NEIMAN’S BEARS “RINGS”: New Line Cinema and Neiman formance spectrum, Dillard’s Inc. key area for us and our comp- Peter Nordstrom, president of Marcus Beverly Hills came together to create the department reported that its net loss for the store trends attest to that focus,” the full-line stores, said, “We’re store’s first film-branded storefront window displays, for “Lord of third quarter ended Nov. 1 more he continued. “It is gratifying to interested and we’re looking the Rings,” to be unveiled Monday and remain on view through than tripled to $15.8 million, or 19 see our two- and three-year around a bit but we’re not really Dec. 29. Oscar-nominated art director Dan Hennah and art coor- cents a diluted share, from $5.1 comp trends be both positive at liberty to talk about it.” dinator Chris Hennah created four richly detailed windows de- million, or 6 cents, in the year-ago and improving.” Continued on page 6 picting the four sites in which trilogy unfolds — Hobbiton, Edoras, Rivendell and Minas Tirith — using props, costumes and set deco- ration imported from the New Zealand production.

● SYRUP DRIES UP: Syrup Clothing Co. is another victim of Estée Lauder, Missoni Said Near Beauty Deal California’s escalating business costs. The Los Angeles-based young contemporary vendor has liquidated following its Chapter 7 filing MILAN — Estée Lauder and Missoni are said to Missoni is reported to have finished their three weeks ago. Operating for six years, the line targeted a mid-20s be in the late stages of signing a joint worldwide search for a new agreement for their beauty arm. customer and had sales of $3 million at its peak two years ago. The beauty pact. In the early Eighties, Missoni had a fragrance company sized down from 16 employees to 10 this year, but that still Neither Lauder nor Missoni — whose execu- business, Missoni Profumi/ SpA, via a licensing wasn’t enough, according to owner and founder David White, who tives are currently in Japan to promote their 50th deal with Max Factor. Their first women’s fra- had also planned to move production offshore. “We’ve been underfi- anniversary celebrations — would comment on grance launched in September of 1981. By the nanced for a long time — there wasn’t any heavy money behind me,” the deal. However, according to industry reports, late Eighties, Missoni fragrances were produced White said. “I needed a miracle.” White, former president of Z. the two companies are talking about launching a and distributed by the Paris-based Orlane. Cavaricci, said he’s exploring consulting and new business options. fragrance at the beginning of 2005. — Stephanie Epiro © 2002 Estée Lauder Inc.

www.esteelauder.com Defining Beauty 4 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003

An ethereal sunburst replete with Icy Illusions flying geese at Bergdorf Goodman. By Anamaria Wilson features a mannequin in an ethereal white gown surround- ed by a flock of flying geese. Another showcases rich, choco- NEW YORK — Few things unleash the holiday frenzy quite like late hues in the form of a mannequin in an elegant taffeta the window unveilings in Manhattan. Hundreds crowd the side- riding habit, a wooden horse and cherubs. walks, craning their necks for a glimpse of the latest scenes of Saks Fifth Avenue, which unveiled its windows Monday the season, their storytelling magic a kind of lost art. night, based them on “The Gift,” a story by Sandra Magsamen Yet their purpose is clear: Holiday windows are typically about the legacy of music. The mechanical windows feature devised as winsome distractions from the world at large to children playing music in several classroom scenes, culminat- lure passersby inside — whether it’s the droll antics at ing in a concert where “they realize their own gift of song,” said Barneys New York, the elaborate beauty at Bergdorf Goodman, Tim Wisgerhof, Saks’ window director. the whimsical tableau at Henri Bendel or the classic Bloomingdale’s hit upon a somewhat similar theme with its mechanical story-inspired scenes at Saks Fifth Avenue, windows, which refer to Harry Connick Jr.’s recent holiday CD Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Lord & Taylor. in which he sings classic carols such as “Silver Bells,” “I’ll be Simon Doonan, creative director of Barneys New York, has Home for Christmas” and “Frosty the Snowman.” applied his usual jocund tactics with a tribute to the “Sex and “We created scenes depicting the songs in whimsical man- the City” stars. Each Madison Avenue window is devoted to one ners indicative of Bloomingdale’s, as well as Harry’s persona, of the actresses with wildly tongue-in-cheek themes framed as and in keeping with the holiday feeling,” said Joe Cotugno, fairy tales. Sarah Jessica Parker is “The Princess and the operating vice president, creative director, visual merchandis- Shoe,” Kim Cattrall is “Sinderella,” Kristin Davis is “Schnow ing, for the store. The windows will be unveiled on Tuesday. Vite” and Cynthia Nixon is “Little Red Henna’d Head.” Macy’s Broadway windows are based on scenes from the clas- Parker’s window is decorated with portraits of her beaux sic film, “A Christmas Story.” Sam Joseph, vice president of cre- — past and present — and features a caricature of the actress ative design for the retailer, struck upon the idea after happen- dressed in a Behnaz Sarafpour tulle ballerina dress and sit- ing upon the film while home sick and watching television in the ting atop a giant Manolo Blahnik stiletto. “She’s discarded middle of the night. “I figured it would be a fun one to do,” said her Manolos in favor of bunny slippers,” said Doonan. “It’s Joseph. “So I came in to work the next day and sketched it.” the perfect time to pay homage to the girls because their last Gilbert Vanderweide, Henri Bendel’s visual director, season is coming up.” chose a baroque fantasy of suspended mannequins with An Amazonian At Bergdorf Goodman, Linda Fargo, vice president, visual ornate butterfly wings amidst Burmese antiques and metal- version of merchandising, opted for opulent dreamlike scenes. lic streamers. “The butterfly wings move,” said Vanderweide. Beyoncé at Saks The retailer held a triple-pronged party Thursday night to “It’s tasteful animation. That’s as traditional as I’m going to FiFifthfth Avenue. unveil its holiday windows and celebrate the debut of Fargo’s get [with the windows].” book, “Dreams Through the Glass,” as well as its collaboration Lord & Taylor went back to its roots and its traditional with Swarovski — which includes chandeliers conceived by windows based on Virginia O’Hanlon’s story, “Yes, Virginia, designers such as Diane von Furstenberg and Ted Muehling. There is a Santa Claus.” “When I started working on the book, I began to realize The running theme is “Let’s all believe in Santa Claus” that my most memorable works have characteristics of a and includes mechanical scenes that are vignettes from the dream,” explained Fargo. One of the Fifth Avenue windows story and features tiny reproductions of New York in 1895.

The window at Barneys New York for Charlotte of “Sex and the City.”

Lord & Taylor’s Christmas Eve scene.

A baroque fantasy at Henri Bendel. A baroque fantasy at Henri Bendel. JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY

A scene from “A Christmas Story” at Macy’s Herald Square. BARNEYS, SAKS, BERGDORF’S AND LORD & TAYLOR PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY & TAYLOR BARNEYS, SAKS, BERGDORF’S AND LORD

PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY The Carrie Bradshaw window at Barneys New York. OLLECTION; GWYNETH PALTROW, PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO BY PHOTOGRAPHED PALTROW, OLLECTION; GWYNETH

Named to Hall of Fame 1961 Nominated 2004 UDREY HEPBURN, PARAMOUNT/NEAL PETERS C UDREY HEPBURN, PARAMOUNT/NEAL A

It’s not what you wear... 6 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003

EGGED ON: Eggs were a big theme of the Bush state visit to London Fashion Scoops Thursday — and we’re not talking Nigella Lawson’s lunch menu. While protesters were busy pelting eggs at the Gap Leads Specialty Pack effigy of George Bush in Trafalgar Square at the end of a 200,000-strong antiwar march, Laura Bush was gazing at bejeweled copies of them. The By Jennifer Weitzman to $1.85 billion from $1.77 billion and rose 2 percent First Lady visited an exhibition of Fabergé eggs at The Queen’s Gallery at on a same-store basis. Total apparel sales dimin- Buckingham Palace before going on to The Royal Mews to see the Gold NEW YORK — With a healthy parade of fall fashion ished 1.8 percent to $663.2 million versus $675.4 mil- State Coach. A Bush spokesman said the First Lady had no plans to shop hits and marketing coups to its credit, Gap Inc. lion, while apparel comps decreased 2 percent. The during her three-day visit. “Unfortunately, their schedules are just too busy.” demonstrated that it is indeed a retail destination operating loss in apparel of $8.9 million compared as third-quarter profits nearly doubled. with a loss of $2.8 million in last year’s quarter. ITALIAN DELIGHT: Watch out, Victoria’s Secret. The San Francisco-based specialty giant contin- By brand, VS and B&BW comps rose 5 percent Sultry soap star Susan Lucci, who sells her ued to make huge strides in its comeback, as quar- and 3 percent, respectively, but were offset by a 2 jewelry and accessories on the Home terly earnings rose 94.1 percent for the three percent comp drop at Express and flat comps at Shopping Network, says she’s launching a months ended Nov. 1 to $262.6 million, or 28 cents a Limited stores. The company said the Express lingerie line in the first week of February on diluted share, a penny ahead of the most recent women’s business was disappointing, as it experi- HSN. “It will be very sensual and very sexy,” consensus estimate of 27 cents and in line with its enced weakness in key categories including denim Lucci disclosed at the National Italian guidance earlier this month of 26 to 28 cents. Last and sweaters. Men’s results improved in the quarter American Foundation dinner at San Domenico PHOTOS JOHN ANGELINI BY year, the firm reported earnings of $135.3 million, with positive comps. Tuesday night. The event celebrated the first Mario Andretti and Susan or 15 cents. For the nine months, income rose 121.1 percent NIAF Andrea Bocelli Music Scholarship and Lucci share 10-2 steering Gap, which operates a fleet of 4,210 stores in to $329.2 million, or 63 cents, compared with $148.9 drew a stupendous crowd, with Robert DeNiro, techniques. 3,075 locations, reported sales for the quarter of million, or 29 cents. On an adjusted basis, income Yogi Berra, Mario Andretti, Sylvia Miles, Gina $3.93 billion, an increase of 7.8 percent over sales of jumped 14.8 percent to $196.1 million, or 37 cents, Lollobrigida, Claudio Del Vecchio, Vic Damone and his wife, Rena Rowan. $3.64 billion for the same period last year and up 6 compared with $170.9 million, or 32 cents. Sales for The real stars of the evening, however, were the rare 476-g., $4,000 percent on a same-store sales basis. All units posted the period advanced 4.1 percent to $5.7 billion from white truffle that restaurateur Tony May proudly showed every guest and, of comp gains, with Banana Republic up 11 percent, $5.48 billion. course, Stefanie Izzo, an A student at New York University majoring in Old Navy up 6 percent and Gap up 5 percent. music voice performance, who received the scholarship. “This is quite “Compared to a year ago, our product assort- CHARMING SHOPPES possibly the coolest day of my life.” Bocelli suggested another very cool ment this fall was more sharply edited and fo- Higher gross margin and lower costs offset sag- day might be in her future: “I hope to sing with her in some production.” cused,” Paul Pressler, Gap’s president and chief ex- ging sales to allow Charming Shoppes Inc. to ecutive, said on an afternoon conference call. swing back to profitability in the third quarter. BOOK NIGHT: Lord Conrad Black might have a black eye over his handling of Despite unseasonably warm weather and the For the three months ended Nov. 1, the the newspaper group, Hollinger International, but he isn’t keeping a low Northeastern blackout, Pressler said Gap deliv- Bensalem, Penn.-based operator of the Lane profile. After all, he has his 1,280-page biography of Franklin Delano ered a “solid overall performance” due to a more Bryant and Fashion Bug nameplates, among oth- Roosevelt to promote. So Oscar de la Renta and Jayne Wrightsman will throw disciplined approach to its growth strategy and ers, posted net income of $2.2 million, or 2 cents a a book party for Black and 300 of his friends Monday at the Four Seasons evolving consumer-focused initiatives. diluted share, which beat the Wall Street forecast in New York (where his wife, Barbara Amiel, lunched Wednesday with Lally Byron Pollitt, chief financial officer, said on the by 3 cents. By comparison, last year the firm Weymouth). And it’s certainly going to be a busy night for readers at the call that the third quarter’s solid results were recorded a net loss of $290,000, or 0 cents. restaurant — there’s also a party Monday for 600 people to celebrate the against the toughest comparison the company has Excluding aftertax charges of $825,000, or 1 cent, a publication of former Treasury Secretary Robert Rubin’s book, “In an faced since it started to deliver profit increases in year ago, Charming Shoppes' earnings per share Uncertain World: Tough Choices from Wall Street to Washington.” Perhaps the second quarter of 2002. would have improved to 1 cent. Rubin could give Black some tips on how to deal with the SEC? He noted that all three divisions were “clearly Net sales for the quarter dipped 2.2 percent to driving strong product acceptance with our cus- $530.3 million and comparable-store sales were ROYAL REPAST: Queen Elizabeth II certainly likes pomp and circumstance, tomers as evidenced by strong regular-price selling flat. However, that was more than offset by a 20 but Queen Sofia of Spain goes the other way. The stylish, smiling queen — and merchandise margins.” basis-point expansion in gross margin to 28.1 per- whose son, Felipe, just got engaged to a Spanish television reporter — had On the real estate front, Gap said square footage cent of sales and a 60 basis-point contraction in a low-key lunch Thursday at La Grenouille and was hardly recognized. Even for the third quarter decreased by 2 percent. In selling, general and administrative costs to 26.7 her security didn’t give her away — two men sat discreetly and eyed the total for 2003, it said it expects square footage to percent of sales, which combined to deliver the room from a few tables away. fall 2 percent, noting it will open about 35 loca- better-than-expected bottom-line results. tions, mostly Old Navy, and close 135, mostly Gap. “The [gross margin] increase was driven by For 2004, it said it anticipates square footage to re- margin improvements at Fashion Bug and Lane main flat, with the opening of 125 doors, mostly ON, Bryant,” said chief financial officer Eric Specter and the closing of 125, mostly Gap. on a conference call with analysts. Year-to-date profits rose 194.8 percent to $674.3 Regarding the lower SG&A costs, Specter said Ward’s Settlement million, or 72 cents, compared with $228.7 million, despite “a flat to negative sales environment for or 26 cents. Sales climbed 11.9 percent to $10.97 bil- the quarter, dollar expenditures were lower than lion over $9.8 billion and moved up 9 percent on a plan, as well as lower than last year.” Stirs Kmart Lawsuit comp basis. By store division, Lane Bryant comped down 5 Among the other specialty retailers joining the percent during the quarter, mostly due to weak By Vicki M. Young still mired in bankruptcy pro- avalanche of earnings reports issued on Thursday: mall traffic, the firm said. Catherine’s Plus Sizes ceedings, but the assets it once likewise posted a 5 percent comp decrease as high- NEW YORK — The Kmart held are now part of the new LIMITED BRANDS er unit sales were more than offset by eroding traf- Creditor Trust’s attempt to re- firm that emerged from Chapter Limited Brands said its third-quarter profits fic. Fashion Bug, however, comped up 6 percent, cover some of its losses through 11 in May, known as Kmart soared 722 percent, as strength in Victoria’s primarily on higher transaction volume. a lawsuit may get some help Holding Corp. The new firm is Secret and Bath & Body Works offset an operating Overall, for the first nine months of the fiscal from a recent case involving a not a party to the lawsuit and loss in its apparel division. year, Charming Shoppes reported net income of store that wound up on the re- can’t be affected by its outcome. The Columbus, Ohio-based company said report- $30.5 million, or 26 cents, versus last year’s net loss tail industry’s scrap heap. The 116-page suit alleges ed earnings for the three months ended Nov. 1 rose of $6.6 million, or 2 cents. Excluding an accounting Recent precedent from the that the six former executives to $129.7 million, or 25 cents a diluted share, from change in the prior year, net income would have $80 million settlement that unse- cost the bankrupt firm over $1 $15.8 million, or 3 cents per share, a year earlier. been $42.5 million, or 35 cents, a year ago. cured creditors of defunct billion in personal and busi- Subtracting special items, Limited finished the quar- Net sales for the period fell 6.1 percent to $1.7 Montgomery Ward obtained ness expenses through poor ter 1 cent above analysts’ earnings estimates of 4 billion from $1.81 billion a year ago, and same- from GE Capital Corp. — albeit management. How so? The cents per share. store sales fell 3 percent. on grounds different from those creditors charged in the docu- On an adjusted basis, quarterly earnings perked In guidance, Charming Shoppes said fourth-quar- in Kmart’s case — could provide ment that the executives’ free- up 326.8 percent to $44.3 million, or 8 cents, versus ter earnings per share are forecast at 3 to 5 cents. a powerful incentive to Kmart spending ways were part of a $10.4 million, or 2 cents. — With contributions from Dan Burrows creditors to keep pushing for pattern of corporate waste: Overall sales for the quarter gained 4.5 percent and Ross Tucker what they believe is rightfully Kmart was billed $106,191 for theirs. In the GE/Ward lawsuit, improvements to a personal creditors sought at least $500 residence, including $34,948 million in damages, alleging that for a guard house and $3,590 GE “intentionally misled credi- for a safe room; $100,000 for tors.” It also sought another $500 nannies, and even $230,000 for Nordstrom Scores Big in Quarter million as a restitution claim. a trip to Las Vegas for 60 em- The multimillion-dollar settle- ployees. Continued from page 2 Earnings were released after the market closed, but ment, of course, increases the The trust already has sued He added that the firm was considering four or five loca- Nordstrom shares rose $1.30, or 4.3 percent, during the recovery for creditors. six former executives to recov- tions at the most. day Thursday to close at $31.82 in New York Stock In the case of Kmart Corp., er loans given to them by the Looking ahead, Nordstrom expects fourth-quarter Exchange trading. a lawsuit was filed against six firm shortly before it went earnings per share of 54 to 58 cents. For the full-year, Dillard’s shares were up 4 cents, or 0.3 percent, to former executives on Tuesday bankrupt. Those claims are in Nordstrom now forecasts EPS of $1.55 to $1.59, higher $14.50 in Thursday’s NYSE session but leaped in after-hours by the trust in a state court in separate legal proceedings be- than the guidance it issued at second quarter’s end of trading. The firm didn’t conduct a conference call, but did Pontiac, Mich. Among the six fore a federal bankruptcy $1.33 to $1.37. The outlook for full-year comps is an in- acknowledge in its earnings statement that third-quarter sales defendants named were for- court judge in Chicago. crease of 1 to 3 percent. were led by cosmetics, accessories, shoes, lingerie and men’s mer chairman and chief exec- The latest lawsuit could af- Overall, for the first nine months of the fiscal year, wear, with women’s wear and juniors’ in line with company utive Charles Conaway and fect ongoing legal proceedings. Nordstrom said profits more than quadrupled, soaring results and children’s and home falling below average. former president Mark As reported, the Detroit of- 358.7 percent to $138.5 million, or $1.01, from $30.2 For the year to date, Dillard’s loss shrank to $41.8 mil- Schwartz. The trust is seeking fices of the Federal Bureau of million, or 22 cents, a year ago. Excluding special items in lion, or 50 cents a share, versus a year-ago loss of $470.6 recovery of assets for creditors Investigation and the U.S. the year-ago period, net income would have increased a million, the result of an accounting change that subtracted of the old Kmart holding com- Attorney are conducting active more modest 36.9 percent from $101.2 million, or 75 $530.3 million from the bottom line. Sales fell 4 percent pany, which once owned the investigations into what led to cents. Sales rallied 7.9 percent to $4.56 billion from to $5.3 billion from $5.52 billion. assets of the retailer. Kmart’s January 2002 Chapter $4.22 billion while comps picked up 2.6 percent. — With contributions from Arnold J. Karr The old holding company is 11 filing. Wa it a second. Y ANNIE LEIBOVITZ GE CLOONEY, PHOTOGRAPHED B PHOTOGRAPHED GE CLOONEY,

Named to Hall of Fame 1969 Nominated 2004 CARY GRANT, PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE HOYNINGEN-HUENE; GEOR HOYNINGEN-HUENE; GEORGE BY PHOTOGRAPHED GRANT, CARY

Yes it is.

This April, Vanity Fair unveils its first International Best-Dressed List Issue, featuring exclusive portraits of the most stylish women and men in the world. And it’s unlike anything you’ve ever seen.

Continuing the tradition of the original International Best-Dressed List founded in 1940 by fashion doyenne Eleanor Lambert— one of the 20th century’s most influential style arbiters who bequeathed it to Vanity Fair editors— the issue will celebrate the most fabulous fashion icons from all walks of modern culture: statesmen, socialites, celebrities, designers, and royals, along with past legends who continue to shape the future.

Who will make the list? There’s only one way to find out. Vanity Fair’s April Issue.

Close Date: 2/2/04 On-sale Date: 3/9/04

For more information, call Associate Publisher Steven DeLuca at 212.286.2714.

THE BIOGRAPHY OF OUR AGE, ONE MONTH AT A TIME. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003 The Beauty Report Updating the Indies NEW YORK — The overhaul of Hard Candy and Zomnir. “We’ve already seen increased sales Urban Decay is continuing. from this move.” Nearly a year after LVMH Moët Hennessy Hard Candy’s outer packaging used to be pri- Louis Vuitton sold the brands to the Falic Group, marily silver with accent colors, including deep a Florida-based firm known for its strength in purple, ice blue and peach. The new look is done travel retail channels — Wende Zomnir, the in shades of pale blue and chartreuse, with a founder of Urban Decay, who is now creative di- new tagline: “Be Sweet, Be Seen.” The new rector for both brands, is ready to kick off the tagline is expected to be in full use across all next phase of the freshening process: redoing Hard Candy doors by March. More age-appropri- the packaging for Hard Candy, as well as adding ate sku’s are also on tap: “We’ll be adding more a brush line for Urban Decay and discontinuing teenager-type things — like oil-absorbing powder lipstick and a number of other stockkeeping — for Hard Candy very soon,” said Zomnir. Some units for Hard Candy. of the inner packaging will be redone as well — Despite being two of the for instance, while the com- most talked about indie pacts will keep the same brands of the Nineties, Hard Hard Candy’s tops that they have had, the Candy and Urban Decay updated bottoms will be color coded packaging. seemed to lose steam after and will allow consumers being acquired by LVMH. to see the shades through Zomnir acknowledges that the bottom of the compacts. the brands, particularly For Urban Decay, brush- Hard Candy, hit some rough es — made of synthetics footing along the way. rather than animal prod- However, Zomnir said she ucts, thus earning the name believes the new strategies “Good Karma” brushes — are getting both brands mov- will be out in February. PRODUCT PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE PRODUCT PHOTOS BY ing in the right direction. Each is named for its pur- Three products from Prescriptives’ new Moonbeam Reflective Gloss line. Zomnir is also continuing pose. “How many times do her effort to create distinct you see a brush named images for the two brands: ‘Brush #3’ and not know an older, more sophisticated what it’s meant for?” she A Prescription for Shine age target for Urban Decay, asked rhetorically. “So ours and a younger, more accessi- are called blush brush, NEW YORK — Prescriptives is planning on adding a little shine to ble positioning for Hard liner brush, whatever its its lip lineup this spring with the addition of Moonbeam Reflective Candy. Urban Decay’s new function is.” Gloss, a new lip gloss collection launching in mid-February. age target is 18- to 40-year- Key partners for both “The trend we’re seeing in lip gloss is reflective, but not in- olds, while Hard Candy is Hard Candy and Urban your-face glitter,” said Poppy King, vice president of creative aimed at 12- to 24-year-olds. Decay include Sephora and marketing for Prescriptives, who confesses that the new line was As part of the road to that goal, more than 80 Nordstrom in the U.S. In total, Hard Candy is inspired by a trip to the Hayden Planetarium. “They were talk- percent of Hard Candy’s current sku’s will be available in 217 doors globally, 161 in the U.S. ing about light travel, and it made me think about how light discontinued, a process that started earlier this and 56 internationally. Urban Decay is in 275 moves through cosmetics,” said King, adding that her next trip year and which will continue throughout 2004. doors globally, with 155 in the U.S. and 120 inter- was to the brand’s research and development labs to talk about While Zomnir noted that the cuts are across the nationally. Both brands are in 83 Sephora doors reflective makeup. “I love the idea of space-age makeup, and board in eyes, lips and face, she has chosen to in the U.S. As well, Hard Candy plans to refresh this line is that to me.” discontinue lipstick entirely in favor of lip gloss. about 25 key doors in the first part of 2004, plus But while King wanted reflective makeup, she didn’t want in- “That’s really where we see the Hard Candy con- open new stores, said Zomnir. your-face glitter — “That’s more teen-ish than we wanted to get,” sumer going,” she said. “How many teenagers While the brands are currently estimated by she said. “We wanted something luscious, but in an adult way.” are wearing matte lipstick?” industry sources to do about $30 million at retail Also, over the last few months, Hard Candy in total, the aim, said new owner Leon Falic in has implemented lower prices — for instance, May, is to grow the brands’ revenues 30 to 50 per- We wanted something luscious, but compacts are now closer to $25 than $35, while cent over the next three to five years. Added “ the entry price point — for a lip balm — is $6.50. Zomnir: “Since the recent acquisition of Urban in an adult way. “The $25 range is about as prestige as pricing Decay and Hard Candy, the brands are meeting ” — Poppy King, Prescriptives gets, realistically, for an average teenager,” said expectations due to their strong brand identities and loyal customer base. The po- The formula, King explained, uses a new pigment technology tential of these companies, how- that is designed to enhance the light reflective qualities of the ever, has not yet been achieved. lip gloss. “Multidimensional, curved pearls create more surface We will get there in a couple of area for light to reflect off of at all sorts of angles, resulting in years, and intend to grow on an amazing, high-gloss shine,” said King. annual compound growth rate of The Moonbeam lineup comprises 10 shades, ranging from a 15 percent. We’ll reach this as pearly silver to a deep, reflective red. Each will retail for $17.50. planned because our sharehold- The collection will be available in Prescriptives’ 850 U.S. de- ers are committed, and have put partment and specialty store doors. While King wouldn’t com- a great team in place. The previ- ment on projected first-year sales, industry sources estimated ously stated goal of $50 million the lineup would do about $2 million in its first year on counter. in the next three to five years is While national advertising is not planned, King is planning a 20- attainable and we are commit- city personal appearance tour starting around Valentine’s Day. ted to surpass it.” — J.N. —Julie Naughton L’ O r é a l : P o r t r a it of a Woman NEW YORK — As L’Oréal’s slogan “Because I’m Worth bration of women,” said Hamilton. It” reaches its 30th anniversary, the company is plan- Many of the photographs are portraits of women, as ning a celebration. An exhibition called “Because I’m well as some photos of models and actresses from pho- Worth It: A Celebration of Women” will be held at the tographers that include Walter Chin, Patrick Chelsea Art Museum in New York City to benefit the Demarchelier, Pamela Hanson and Christopher Micaud. Ovarian Cancer Research Fund, a non-profit organiza- “Virtually everyone that you could think of has con- tion dedicated to finding a cure for ovarian cancer. tributed,” said Hamilton. “So, we’re really excited “We think it’s a big deal for us and for women that about it.” the phrase ‘Because I’m Worth It’ has existed for 30 Almost 100 photographers have donated work, years without any kind of hiatus,” said Carol Hamilton, which will be auctioned off at the exhibition preview president of the L’Oréal Paris brand. gala on Dec. 2. “The proceeds will go to the OCRF, She noted that the idea behind the exhibition was to which is our key cause,” noted Hamilton. “We started do something that recognizes women but “it also had to working to raise money for the OCRF in 1997 so this be artistic.” was just a continuation but a really important event to L’Oréal asked beauty and fashion and fine art pho- kind of bring it all together.” The images will be on dis- tographers as well as photojournalists from all over the play from Dec. 3-7. world to “submit a photograph that for them was a cele- —Kristin Finn WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003 9

Packaging Beauty at Luxe Pack MONACO — Luxury was the buzzword at Luxe Pack Monaco, the high- end packaging trade show held here from Oct. 22-25. Everyone present, from its exhibitors to its organizers and conference speakers, strove to define the term and maintain the category’s leadership. “Every generation redefines luxury,” said Marc Rosen, president of Marc Rosen Associates, at the opening of the Luxe Pack conference he chaired, “The Luxury Evolution.” “We all know what luxury used to be — that’s easy — but what does it connote today? None of the old rules apply,” said Rochelle Bloom, president of the Fragrance Foundation, who added that four people asked to define luxury would likely come up with as many different definitions. Bloom explained that what sets luxury goods apart is that they don’t “just look different, but engage the customer emotionally.” Peter Lichtenthal, senior vice president of global marketing for the Estée Lauder brand, said “luxury is about wanting to have what is scarce.” Paul Austin, vice president of sales at fragrance supplier Quest International, said it’s questionable whether fragrance is still considered a luxury, particularly given today’s market inundated with new product launches. For him, luxury is about offering an experience to consumers. Bloom pointed out that home fragrances and bath products are part A makeover session. of the new luxury. “Time” is also equated with today’s luxury, according to Bloom. Lichtenthal said some of its other characteristics include the ability to create fantasy, attention to detail, plus controlled distribution and price Printemps Unveils Parisian Perfumery integrity. “The problem is that many cosmetics companies want to cut ex- penses and are slowly [moving into] the mass market,” said Pierre-Yves PARIS — Between the interpretive dancers, kung A shot of the escalator between the two floors. Maisonneuve, president of Luxe Pack Monaco. “These days, many fu demonstrations and otherworldly painted peo- brands are only interested in [cost]. They must turn toward innovation.” ple — not to mention zillions of beauty products To encourage young designers in the high-end packaging world, the as far as the eye could see — it was sensory over- trade show organizers — along with the Principality of Monaco and load last week here when Printemps feted what it Societe des Bains de Mer/Monte Carlo Resort — hosted the first bills as the “biggest perfumery in the world.” Monaco Luxe Pack Design Award. Frenchman Xavier Ricolfi’s bottle The Boulevard Haussmann flagship, throbbing was chosen among four other finalists’, from the U.S., Germany, Italy with pink light outside, was a beauty beacon wel- and Brazil. Each one had created a fragrance flacon inspired by the coming more than 2,000 revelers. They roamed idea of the “Monte Carlo Dream.” Ricolfi was awarded $11,900 at cur- the 43,055-square-foot, two-story space, stopping rent exchange rates, or 10,000 euros. only for a quick This session of Luxe Pack Monaco registered 5,307 attendees, up makeover, hand and 11.5 percent year on year. At 320, the number of exhibitors was flat. back massages — or — J.W. a whiff of fresh air at the oxygen bar. Laurence Danon, president of the Printemps board of directors and a mem- At Jean Paul ber of Pinault-Prin- Gaultier Parfums. temps-Redoute’s ex- ecutive committee, cut the ribbon on two new escalators and Serge Weinberg escorted her big and Chantal Roos boss, French billion- A view of aire François Pin- the new ault, upstairs for the counter first look. style. Other PPR brass were out in force, in- cluding chief execu- Chanel’s Counter Update tive Serge Weinberg François and Pinault’s son, Pinault and NEW YORK — Call it counter intelligence. François-Henri, who François- Chanel has begun a two-year counter overhaul strategy for is now chairman of Henri Pinault its corporate installation counters — about 200 of the brand’s the family holding Body paint at MAC. U.S. department and specialty store doors for beauty. About company, Artemis. 30 doors are slated to be redone in the first half of 2004, while Also among bold- another 20 or so will be overhauled in the second half of 2004. faced attendees was The remainder will be redone in 2005. Chantal Roos, chair- Chanel’s color cosmetics and skin care products are avail- man and chief exec- able in about 800 U.S. department and specialty store doors, utive officer of YSL while its fragrances are available in about 3,000 U.S. depart- Beauté — the beauty ment and specialty store doors. Those doors being overhauled arm of PPR-owned are those featuring custom-designed counters built by Chanel Gucci Group. for the retailer on a corporate basis. L’Occitane presi- The latest to get the look — this week — is Saks Fifth dent Reinold Geiger Avenue’s Beverly Hills door, and Macy’s South Coast Plaza and Giorgio Armani door has also just been updated. “About two years ago, on a Parfums internation- global basis, we implemented a new counter look,” said Jean al general manager Hoehn Zimmerman, executive vice president of marketing Fabio Mancone were The and sales for fragrance and beauté for Chanel, who describes also among the many oxygen the new counters as “lighter, using a lot more white and a lot executives in atten- bar. less black. Many feature transparencies and other visual im- dance, while the ageries. Overall, there is more luxury showcasing of product.” French celebrity quo- While each door in the U.S. will get a slightly different ver- tient included actors sion of the look — “these are all one-offs, customized for the Lambert Wilson and Laurence Danon space the door has available for us,” said Hoehn Zimmerman Judith Godreche. — they will have several elements in common. All will use the Cosmetic and fragrance brands pulled out all signature Chanel black and white, although the new versions the stops to help celebrate the event. MAC, for in- include more white than black fixturing. Where space allows, stance, showed off its body-painting savoir faire play stations for color and open-sell will be added. with performers wearing next to nothing but “When we put in new counters, we generally see sales color cosmetics. Even gentlemen were invited to jumps of 10 to 20 percent,” said Hoehn Zimmerman, adding get into the action, thanks to Jean Paul Gaultier that in October, the brand saw an 11 percent increase in cos- Parfums, which just launched color cosmetics for metics and a 7 percent increase in fragrance sales. men. Eyeliner, anyone? — Julie Naughton PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY — Jennifer Weil STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003 The Beauty Report Del Labs Readies 1st-Half Rollouts UNIONDALE, N.Y. — Del Laboratories is voicing a competitive spirit. The compa- ny has set its sights on ranking among the top echelon of U.S. cosmetics brands by 2005. That would put its leading Sally Hansen brand in a league with market leaders Maybelline, Cover Girl, L’Oréal, Revlon and Almay. That prediction was made by Del’s Harvey Alstodt, executive vice president, sales, at Del Labs, as he and other compa- ny executives previewed an arsenal of new items they hope will take Del to that level. According to Information Resources Inc., Sally Hansen already has retail sales of $135 million, excluding Wal-Mart. In addition, Del markets Cornsilk, Naturistics, NYC New York Color and La Cross. The company has been building its business for the past three years and NYC New York Color adds liquid lipstick, eye dust and cosmetic kits. Beyond Perfect, a nail color with vitamins. growth has continued this year. In 2002, Del’s beauty sales grew 8 percent to $284 halt the appearance of aging. “Women grow natural nails, the company is also caras,” noted Weinstein. And reacting to million. Growth has continued this year are multitasking and look tired,” ex- introducing new and improved artificial the downward trend in waxy lipsticks, with the company’s net sales up some 8.4 plained Mona Monaghan, senior vice nails including new Glue-On Nails, new NYC is adding a liquid lipstick in 12 col- percent for the first nine months. president and general manager for Sally nail glues, three kits and a nail remover. ors bearing girl’s names such as Jenn, Among the plethora of new items are Hansen. To the rescue is the Sally The company also wants to treat con- Audre, Jessica and Liz. upscale implements, a spa-inspired nail Hansen Healing Beauty Fast & Flawless sumers’ feet. An 18-Hour Cracked Heel Weinstein said NYC’s team noticed a collection called Beyond Perfect Skin Brightener. While admitting there crème will be available on counters in demand for more makeup applicators and Protein nail color and a host of novel are other brighteners on the market, Del January with vitamins A, E and C, grape that resulted in the On Location makeup products. executives said this product goes beyond seed oil, shea butter and tea tree oil to Professional Accessories Kit. Another item A major growth vehicle will be the the competition because it softens im- provide fast relief to cracked heels. the company expects to perform well is the Sally Hansen name, the number-one nail perfections, but also has retinol and the “Feet get dehydrated and need these On Location Makeup Kit. “Women love the care brand, which is flexing its muscles Healing Beauty exclusive Bio Active products,” said Monaghan. convenience of kits,” said Weinstein. “They in other beauty categories. Last year, Complex to improve skin tone, texture Del has also enjoyed growth of its prefer to travel with them and we don’t be- Sally Hansen delved into color cosmet- and moisture feel. “The formula is like a edgier NYC New York Color line. lieve it takes them out of the market for ics with Healing Beauty. That franchise custard and has a cooling feeling,” Consumer demand for value has pro- other purchases.” For women on-the-go, will be expanded with a Fast & Flawless Monaghan added. Also, starting in pelled the growth of the items priced the company has also created a purse-size Leg Makeup (see related story) that is an January, Sally Hansen will offer 18-Hour mostly under $5. In nail for 2004, NYC is fashion emery board collection priced at extension of its Fast & Flawless Lip Treatment that repairs, conditions adding sheer French manicure nail 99 cents. NYC is also offering Anti- Airbrush Makeup — a star of the and replenishes dry, cracked lips. enamels at 99 cents. A first-of-its-kind Feathering Lip Treatment to halt the Healing Beauty lineup. Another technological breakthrough package at mass is being featured with its “bleeding” of lip coloring. Thanks to con- Two new shades are being added to for the company is the Cornsilk Pore new Sparkle Eye Dusts, which come in a sumer-driven products and the consolida- the makeup for 2004. “The goal of Sally Minimizing Makeup which helps lessen clear jar with a built-in brush, according tion of other value-priced brands, NYC has Hansen Healing Beauty is to find real the visibility of pores. Healing Beauty is to NYC brand manager Laura Weinstein. been on a growth spurt and the company needs and solve them rather than just also introducing a Maximum Growth Addressing usage trends, NYC now expects to have 5,000 more doors selling being another makeup line,” said Mascara that helps lashes grow longer sports a $1.99 waterproof mascara in jet NYC by the end of 2004. William McMenemy, executive vice pres- and stronger in five days, said black and brownish black. “One-third of — Faye Brookman, with ident, marketing. Monaghan. A new Beauty Liner and mascara wearers prefer waterproof mas- contributions from Laura Klepacki A perfect case in point — products to Shadow Duo will bow giving women one tool to create dramatic eyes. Prices Sally Hansen products. range from $7.99 for the Skin Brightener to $5.29 for the mascara. Del Aims to Dress Up Legs With Spray Fortifying the strength of the Sally UNIONDALE, N.Y. — Del wants women to show a little leg — sans pantyhose. Hansen name in nail care are several In a spin-off of its popular Sally Hansen Healing Beauty Fast & Flawless new nail care initiatives. Many are tar- Airbrush Makeup, the company is introducing Airbrush Legs, the market’s first geted to duplicate expensive spa prod- leg makeup. ucts such as the Salon Strength “We are innovating a whole new category,” declared Mona Monaghan, senior Treatment, a protein complex for fast vice president and general manager for Sally Hansen. “This is pantyhose in a nail growth, Age Correct Strengthening can, and it won’t run.” Base & Top Coat, an antiaging moisturiz- Airbrush Legs, a spray-on leg makeup, comes in four shades — light glow, medi- ing strengthener and Manicure in a um glow, tan glow and deep glow. The spray is said to hide spider veins and scars Minute, which smooths and conditions and smooth uneven skin tones with a formula that contains vitamin K and collagen hands and cuticles. “Women want salon and retinol to firm and hydrate skin. The formula is water resistant and transfer re- results at home,” said Monaghan. Many sistant, yet can be removed with soap and water. It is designed to provide legs with a want to grow their own natural nails and healthy glow. “And it is goof-proof,” pledged Monaghan. A can is $9.95. are looking for less expensive solutions Airbrush legs is an example of Del’s aggressive stance in product develop- than professional brands. ment, said Monaghan. “The approach is to be ‘first ever’ to market and — inno- “Your nails tell your age,” said vation, innovation, innovation.” Monaghan, referring to the Age Correct The launch will be supported in-store with 3-D leg merchandisers and item, adding, “This can transform ridged print advertising. Industry sources predict retail sales could hit $20 million. and aged looking nails.” — L.K.

While Sally Hansen helps consumers GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY

and will continue to be, solid competitors in the mass-market fragrance arena,” Cohen said in a state- New Dana Plans to Sell Scent Brands ment. “New Dana’s fragrance portfolio has fared bet- NEW YORK — New Dana Perfumes plans to sell off its more than 26,000 U.S. doors, have been bounced ter than its competition in this tough market, with the fragrance portfolio to the similarly named Dana around over the past 10 years. Although packaging brands continuing to hold their own, and actually im- Classic Fragrances Inc., a company principally owned and formulas have been tinkered with, there is still a proving in many cases. Under Dana Classic by Isaac Cohen, the current president and chief exec- considerable consumer following. Fragrances, we expect to make a strong push to pro- utive officer of New Dana Perfumes. Following the closure of the deal, Dana Classic mote the Dana brands and broaden our product line New Dana Perfumes was founded in 1999 by an af- Fragrances, and Cohen’s existing company, both in the United States and internationally. filiate of an investment fund managed by Dimeling, Intermarketing Group Inc., will both become sub- Moreover, these products will complement IMG’s Schreiber & Park, which purchased the assets of the sidiaries of IMG Holdings Inc. Cohen will serve as product line to the benefit of both the IMG family and bankrupt Renaissance Cosmetics Inc. Cohen was chief executive officer of the combined entities. our retail customers.” tapped at that time to assist in nurturing what would IMG sells brand name watches, fragrances, sunglass- After the sale, New Dana Perfumes Corp. will con- become the New Dana scents back to health. es and writing instruments throughout North America tinue to own and operate its nonfragrance affiliate, The proposed sale includes worldwide rights to to mass market retailers and drug chains. It also mar- New Cosmar, which sells brands including Cosmar, classics such as Tabu, Canoe, English Leather, Love’s kets Dana products to countries outside the U.S. Pro 10, Press & Go, Frills and Nat Robbins. Baby Soft and British Sterling. These brands, sold in “I feel strongly that the Dana brands have been, — F.B. WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003 11

Healing Garden Attacks Cellulite TOP NOTES NEW YORK — The Healing Garden is break up cellulite. Coty’s clinical studies re- sprouting in new directions. veal that the product diminishes spongy, dim- Coty Beauty, which brought aromatherapy pled skin by 46 percent, increases skin hydra- to the mass market in 1997, is progressing with tion by 41 percent, increases skin elasticity by plans to evolve the brand beyond the bath. 30 percent and increases skin firmness by 25 The latest crops from the garden are Spa percent. The mousse is packaged in an alu- Theraphy Active Anti-Cellulite Treatment and minum container that prevents ingredients Spa Theraphy Intensive Body Toning Crème. from oxidizing, according to Zastrow. At first blush, anticellulite and toning prod- The Intensive Body Toning Crème also ucts seem radical departures for The Healing offers clinically proven results said to im- Garden’s specialty bath and fragrance posi- prove skin firmness by 38 percent, elasticity Bobbi Brown tioning. And, the competitors in the mass mar- by 36 percent and hydration by 25 percent. HAPPY HOLIDAYS: Makeup artist ket are companies such as RoC, L’Oréal and The products can be used together or sepa- Bobbi Brown made a personal Neutrogena, with strong skin care heritages. rately. “You see immediate benefits,” said appearance on Tuesday, Nov. Coty executives, however, believe skin care is Singer. Cellulite, she added, is a condition 18 that drew about 350 women a natural step for The Healing Garden. most women — even those who are thin — to Bloomingdale’s 59th Street “We looked at the power of the garden claim to suffer from, suggesting the poten- flagship, where Brown and 30 and combined technology with nature for a tial audience is huge. Women of all ages of her makeup artists were on body care innovation,” said Jacqueline worry about cellulite — a fact Singer hopes hand to answer questions about Singer, group marketing director, global fra- will bring new users to The Healing Garden. everything from the correct grances for Coty Beauty, who said The “Even clothing can affect cellulite,” shade of foundation to holiday Healing Garden will only launch items that added Paul Seplowitz, vice president, prod- looks and gift ideas. With her bring a competitive difference to market. uct development for Coty Beauty US. He philosophy that “makeup In fact, it is the potent botanicals, she said consumers love the spa experience, but should be simple, easy and said, that yield the avenue for The Healing can’t always indulge. Many are also looking approachable,” Brown said Garden to expand into body care. Coty’s goal for ways to achieve a “facelift” without un- when she gets a new customer is to nurture the Healing Garden into a Paul Sephowitz surrounded by Jessica Hanson, dergoing surgery. They are driven to retail in her chair, “I need to see her brand with treatment benefits. Heidi Richardson and Jacqueline Singer. stores to find products that can make them with concealer, foundation and The Healing Garden could thrive on the younger without a spa visit or surgical pro- powder first.” She noted this is introduction. Adding together the various cedures. The Healing Garden is striving to most important and once the categories where The Healing Garden com- be a brand that offers women a holistic solu- basics are right, the makeup petes, its retail sales (excluding Wal-Mart) Critical Mass tion to improving their lives. artists can then work on the hover around $40 million, according to data The Anti-Cellulite Treatment is priced at customer with color. Brown from Information Resources Inc. Although By Faye Brookman $12.95 for 5 oz. The Toning CrËme carries a added that products, for the brand is the number one gift set produc- suggested retail of $10.95 for 8 oz. Products example, the Simmer Brick that er in the mass market, retailers said it could will be on shelves in stores such as Eckerd, accounts for 10 percent of the use some fresh ideas. percent rise in sales, according to IRI. Wal-Mart, Kmart and Sears early next year. brand’s sales, must look natural Regarding the news from Healing Garden, Following that path, the formula for the Print advertising will feature the existing and pretty on the skin. Kathy Steirly, vice president, cosmetics, at new Active Anti-Cellulite Treatment contains model — this time focusing on her thigh Eckerd said, “I think it is exciting. I think a plant-derived Sveltonyl Complex plus black area where cellulite tends to be noticed. ANTIQUE ROAD SHOW: Ralph there are a lot of new things going on in the currant, caffeine, ivy and sage. It was devel- Although Coty hopes retailers might even- Lauren Fragrances is bath category that the industry needed.” She oped by Coty’s research and development fa- tually create special areas in the store for anti- sponsoring the 50th added that Eckerd’s proprietary Naturally, cility in Monaco. “The application of the cellulite, the current goal is to secure place- Anniversary of the Winter Mira bath and spa products have been doing product as directed encourages the body to ment within specialty bath where The Healing Antique Show. The loan exhibit well since their introduction earlier this year. flush the fat out of the cells that are located Garden is housed. Special displays, end caps this year is: A Celebration of Although Coty would not comment on between the muscle and skin, which is what and sidekicks will be available for the launch. The American Wing of The sales projections, industry sources estimate gives skin that orange-peel appearance,” said Anticellulite creams first shook up the mass Metropolitan Museum of Art. the new Healing Garden items could Dr. Leonard Zastrow, senior vice president of market in 1994. At that time, most entries were Andrea Robinson, president, achieve sales of between $12 and $15 mil- research and development in Monaco. from niche marketers. In the last five years, worldwide, Ralph Lauren lion within the first year. The unique delivery systems — a crackling major manufacturers have added their ver- Fragrances, will host the event Coty first tweaked The Healing Garden mousse — also sets Active Anti-Cellulite sions and retailers expect more to follow. that will also celebrate Ralph two years ago with new package designs for Treatment apart from the competition. The Robert Berman, vice president of May’s Lauren Purple Label. It will body mists and a Spa Theraphy collection mousse creates a cooling sensation and a Drug, encouraged the launch of new items take place Monday, Nov. 24 with natural botanical extracts and antioxi- crackling sound as it is applied. The crackling such as the Anti-Cellulite Treatment. “We need from 6 to 8 p.m. Proceeds from dants. The fertilization helped spark a 10 encourages massage, which is said to help new to drive shoppers into our stores,” he said. the show will be donated to East Side House Settlement.

COLORFUL LANGUAGE: A whiff of lily of the valley can remind Avon Delivers At-Home Facial Peel people of the color white — while the same can be said NEW YORK — Avon sales representatives Jill Scalamandre, Avon’s group vice about strawberries and the color already make house calls, and now they president, global marketing, explained that red — and the concept of are bringing the doctor along, too. the Anew Clinical treatments, like typical authenticity and rough texture Under its recently formed Anew Clinical derm procedures, can be supplemented are both associated with the franchise, Avon has said it wants to develop with a woman’s regular daily skin color brown. These were just a products that will deliver dermatologist- care products. few concepts discussed during a like treatments at home. To use 2-Step, first a pad con- two-hour symposium called Its first product — Line and taining a 10 percent glycolic so- Psychology of Color & Scent Wrinkle Corrector, a cream de- lution is applied to the skin. hosted by Fashion Group signed to plump up wrinkles and After waiting five minutes, a International on Tuesday night. fill in facial lines — launched in neutralizer-soaked pad is ap- The event featured several late August, and has raked in $16 plied. “It is like a derm in a box, presentations, including talks by million in U.S. sales through the or a derm at your door,” said Symrise perfumer Frank Voelkl, third quarter. Globally, Clinical’s Scalamandre. “We can bring it Sherri Donghia, of furniture and debut item is expected to reach to her and it is mistake proof.” textiles firm Donghia, who said $50 million within the first year. The 2-Step product is said to colorful tones have been selling Inspired by the response, smooth skin surface, unclog better than neutral tones. Avon is now winding up for the pores, and refine skin clarity Additionally, a panel launch of its second derm-like after only one use, with results discussion, which was product. This time it is a do-it- increasing over time to include moderated by In Style beauty yourself chemical peel. Anew reductions in fine lines, blotchi- Avon adds benefits to Beyond Color items. director Kim-Van Dang, Clinical 2-Step Facial Peel, is ness and skin dullness, according said Scalamandre. featured Voelkl, Donghia, said to be the first such item for to Avon marketers. So, also coming out in March is Beyond designer Norma Kamali, the mass market. It is priced $32 Avon will support the launch Color Plumping Lipstick with Retinol SPF15, sensory psychologist Allan and provides 30 treatments. Anew Clinical 2-Step with TV spots during the first intended to make lips look and feel younger. Kornheiser and Francoise Applications are recommended Facial Peel month. The 2-Step will also be It contains vitamins A, C and E, beta carotene, Serralta, research and planning every other day. heavily sampled. Avon executives believe glycerine and an antioxidant complex. strategy director for Peclers According to the American Society of 2-Step could at least match sales of Line Available in 20 long-wearing shades, a tube is Paris. The panel explored Plastic Surgeons, Botox was the most per- and Wrinkle Corrector its first year. $8. The lipstick is joined with new antifeath- meanings and perceptions of formed dermatological treatment last year, Avon is also bringing more benefits to ering lip liners, a mascara that conditions colors in different cultures and followed by chemical peels, with $410 mil- color cosmetics. “We are taking the innova- eyelashes and new eye shadow in a tube. how colors are perceived in the lion spent on the treatment in the U.S. alone. tive technology of skin care labs to color,” — Laura Klepacki context of other hues. 12 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003 The HBA Report Aveda’s German Expansion BERLIN — With the opening of the Aveda Since then, turnover has doubled and sional people who know the culture of “But if they focused a bit more on retail, Institute in Berlin, the plant-based hair the Aveda salon and spa network has the hair and body, and can recommend they could earn revenue to put back into and beauty brand finally has a Haus to expanded to 175 salons in German- the right products to their customers. their businesses, and refurbish their call its own. speaking Europe, including 60 exclusive And we want to treat these people well,” salons every two years.” While neither Located on a prime stretch of Aveda Concept salons. Conseil said. executive would talk numbers, industry Kurfürstendamm here, the new two That network could conceivably grow Aveda founder Horst Rechelbacher observers estimated that the Berlin facil- floor, 2,375-square-foot institute features to 500 salons, according to Nicole Kremer, “created retail products because he saw ity cost about $1 million. Conseil and the full range of Aveda products, a men’s Aveda brand manager in Germany who retail products as a financial path to Kremer noted that the Berlin store was a hair cutting-barber corner, a hair salon sees the Berlin Institute as a primary independence for salons,” he explained. larger investment than a hairdresser with 18 styling stations and an adjacent instrument to help the company to “The addition of a well-run retail busi- would normally have to make, because of balcony, plus a chakra room for Aveda achieve this goal. ness helps [salon owners] a lot towards the institute’s additional academy func- signature spa treatments. tions and its 1A (or top) location. While its natural textures, Aveda’s new German Institute features A bank of sinks in the salon. Like all Aveda lifestyle salons, muted tones and open spaces cre- a chakra room for treatments. Berlin was designed with an eco- ate an inviting and comfortable logical eye. The company makes it environment for beauty con- a principle to source as locally as sumers, Aveda’s main Berlin focus possible, which here meant wood is on inspiring and instructing its floors made of glued together professional salon customers. For cherry scraps left over from furni- the institute has an important addi- ture manufacture, grass fiber on tional role as the Berlin Academy. the walls, cabinets constructed of Every month, on Sundays and reclaimed oak, and recycled Mondays, the institute is trans- asphalt transformed into the tiles formed into a learning center for on the ground floor. hairdressers, offering courses “We aim to create a corporate such as Connecting Color & Cut ID for the retail part of the salon and The Art and Design of Creat- through our shelf systems and ive Color for up to 14 profession- displays, but leave [salon owners] al participants. The Berlin Acad- their creativity for the rest,” said emy is the fourth such Aveda Kremer. “But it’s never a require- learning center, joining training ment,” Conseil quickly added. facilities in London, New York “We don’t dictate, and we’re not a and Minneapolis. franchise with a cookie-cutter The Berlin institute “is our approach.” first significant step in supporting Conseil said Germany currently our (German professional) net- contributes about 15 percent of work,” said Dominique Conseil, total sales, declining to be more president of Aveda. “We offer a specific. America is still driving forum of creativity and learning possibil- “Before we were just trainers on the financial sustainability and sets us apart Aveda’s growth, “and could double or ities, and even create two annual (hair- road, now we have a roof over our head,” from normal retail brands.” triple in size. It has tremendous potential,” style) collections at the Berlin Institute, Kremer commented. “This institute is a But salon owners get nervous, he he said, “but as we get more focused on which is good for Germany and enriches prototype for our [Aveda] lifestyle salon noted, when it is suggested they could international development, we’ll see that us internationally.” concept. We’re trying to attract other make 30 percent of their turnover through piece grow.” Aveda is not new to Berlin, where an salons to take this concept into other retail. “They worry and say we don’t want Parent company Estée Lauder expects independent retailer operated two cities. This facility in Berlin will help to turn into a store, but Aveda retail is an Aveda to become “a billion-dollar busi- Aveda doors, now closed. Nor is it new to them actively understand what before engine on a machine that works by itself. ness, and we can do it,” Conseil asserted. the German market, where a distributor we could only explain,” she said. It doesn’t require much attention, and “We’re close to half of that. But we will ran the local business for about 10 years Aveda’s focus on salon distribution is making them realize this is our mission.” deliver a billion-dollar business that will until Estée Lauder Germany decided to also linked to its service philosophy. “We “Salons usually do 5 percent of their stay,” he concluded. take the business in house two years ago. want to associate ourselves with profes- business with retail,” Kremer added. — Melissa Drier Ole Henriksen Cleans Up Ole Henriksen’s skin care lineup. NEW YORK — Last year, Ole Henriksen was on the verge of sell- handful of indie beauty boutiques. Since then, he has been ing his company to Gurwitch Products, the parent company of steadily expanding the product lineup and retail distribution. Laura Mercier, which is itself partly owned by the Neiman Today, the range consists of 37 products, ranging in price from Marcus Group. Although the deal fell apart at the 11th hour, $16 for a cleanser to $45 for an antiwrinkle cream. Henriksen hasn’t had any regrets. This month, Henriksen is launching two new products: In fact, despite not having the deep pockets of a new Black Currant Energizing Complexion Oil, a skin conditioner backer, the Hollywood-based Henriksen has embarked on an and brightener designed for cold weather, and Re-Start Anti- aggressive expansion plan. Best known as the skin care spe- Aging Serum, a firming, reparative serum created to be used cialist to the stars, Henriksen recently opened his second day under a night cream. The brand’s packaging, created by graph- spa in Santa Monica’s tony Shutters Hotel. Although the spa’s ic designer David Duarte, is clean, bright and has a modern current digs there are temporary, a permanent space, designed sensibility — the products, for example, were recently featured by noted interior decorator Michael Smith, is currently under on the cover of Wallpaper Magazine. construction and scheduled to open Jan. 15. The line is currently distributed in 78 doors in the U.S., Meanwhile, Henriksen has been busily opening new doors including Henri Bendel, Nordstrom, where Henriksen launched for his eponymous skin care range both in the U.S. and abroad. this fall in about 16 doors, and Sephora. Henriksen’s overseas Sales are expected to almost double this year — the company strategy has been equally as targeted, with 159 doors in posted a 2002 wholesale volume of $2.5 million, a figure Europe, including Harvey Nichols, Magasin and Ludwig Beck; Henriksen expects to hit $4.5 million this year. 25 doors in Asia, including Joyce Beauty and Lane Crawford, “We’re very encouraged by early results,” said Shashi Batra, and a recent foray into Australia, where he opened in David senior vice president of merchandising at Sephora, which Jones and Meyer and Grace Brothers. launched the line earlier this year. “The line is simple, not par- “I’ve learned the retail business is not unlike the service ticularly intensive in terms of stockkeeping units, and the business,” said Henriksen. “In retail, it’s imperative that you foot space on Sunset Boulevard and charges $175 for a facial. ingredients are good, basic botanicals. He’s got a great spa with work with the staff to educate and inspire them, so they can Even with a client roster that includes Charlize Theron and an incredible following and this is a natural extension of that. establish a relationship with consumers and hopefully inspire Renée Zellweger, the indefatigable Henriksen largely runs busi- His credibility comes from his spa and celebrity following.” them with the philosophy.” ness operations by himself, handling all aspects of his compa- Henriksen first launched his line in 2000 with 15 products, The growth of the line reflects the drive of the Danish-born ny personally, from public relations to product formulations. created out of his hands-on experience with the needs of his Henriksen, who grew up in a village of 2,700. He first became “When Gurwitch approached me, I hadn’t been looking to sell clients. Initially available only in his spa or by mail order, he dipped interested in skin care when he developed a severe case of cys- my business and it was a fascinating opportunity to explore,” his toe into wider distribution during beauty’s Internet boom, tic acne while living in Jakarta, Indonesia. An aesthetician said Henriksen, whose upcoming travel schedule includes launching the line on the now defunct site BeautyJungle.com. there helped him overcome the problem, and when he moved stops in northern Europe and Australia — all before Christmas. Although the online beauty business was short lived, the lesson back to Europe, he headed to London to study skin care. “But I came to realize I would work just as hard and have a dif- Henriksen took away from it — that a wider customer base exist- From there, Henriksen went to Los Angeles, where he was ferent set of expectations to meet, with different pressures. ed for his line — wasn’t. one of the few male aestheticians in a field dominated by What’s great about what I do now is that I’m able to do it on In 2001, Henriksen experimented with retail distribution by women. In 1975, he set up his first spa in Beverly Hills, charg- my terms.” launching in Robin Coe-Hutshing’s Studio at Fred Segal and a ing $20 for a facial. Today, Henriksen occupies a 4,500-square- — Jenny B. Fine WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003 13 Obituary Kors Confirms Idol Loris Azzaro, Celebrity Designer, 70 Continued from page 2 and Tokyo, is about to sign a lease Orchulli, the designer’s long- on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. PARIS — Loris Azzaro, a design- style, appealing to some of the the “eau fraiche” market. term business partner who re- “We’ll be on a fairly large cam- er whose sexy gowns have been world’s most beautiful and Delcour noted that the brand mained with the firm as ceo paign to open Collection stores a magnet for celebrities across shapely women. Raquel Welch, would continue its international until March. both worldwide and domestical- several generations, died Thurs- Claudia Cardinale, Joan Collins, development, but said, “We will Chou is clearly excited about ly,” he said. Some will be owned, day of cancer at a Paris clinic. Sophia Loren and Tina Turner miss the little spark, the soul of Kors’ potential to become the others will be franchised. Addi- He was 70. were all clients in the Seventies the house.” next department store mega- tionally, the company plans to in- He leaves behind a small but and Eighties. While fragrance long over- brand. “I think Michael is the crease its advertising presence in recently percolating fashion In 1992, Azzaro launched a shadowed the clothes, Azzaro’s next great American designer, a new spring campaign created by house, centered at his boutique men’s wear line, but he was best designs recently gained new cur- and it’s the combination of every- Fabien Baron. here on Rue du Faubourg Saint- known for his fragrances. His rency as Hollywood actresses body. It starts with Michael’s vi- The Michael better sports- Honore, and a substantial men’s worldwide market share in began favoring vintage on the sion. With Tommy [Hilfiger] it wear line will be developed in- fragrance business, owned by men’s fragrances was once esti- red carpet. Nicole Kidman, for was classics with a twist. With house. There are also plans to Groupe Clarins. mated at up to 10 percent. example, wore a white, fringed Michael, it’s classics with a mod- launch additional licensed prod- In 2002, Compagnie Frey, best “He was very curious and very Azzaro to the “Moulin Rouge” ern touch.” ucts for fall 2004, such as men’s known for its champagne and creative,” said Gerard Delcour, premiere in 2001. Idol said his team at Kors is furnishings, small leather goods real estate holdings, bought the president and chief executive of Inspired by the new fame, now complete. It consists of Brig- and coats, pegged to the rollout of Azzaro fashion house to expand Parfums Azzaro. “He was open to Azzaro himself, assisted by his itte Kleine, who is president of in-store shops and a significant its luxury division. Earlier that all things. He loved music, archi- daughter and designer Vanessa the Michael Kors Collection advertising campaign. The strate- year, Frey was among firms vying tecture, decor, not only fashion — Seward, was involved in the re- women’s division; Gia Castro- gy is to launch Michael with criti- to buy Valentino, which was even- he was a complete aesthete.” launch of some of his archival giovanni, president of the cal mass in an initial rollout of tually purchased by Marzotto. Acquired by Clarins in 1995, dresses, tweaked for modern Michael women’s collection; about 250 department and spe- On Thursday, the house said Parfums Azzaro today rings up times. Anna Bakst, president of Michael cialty store doors, giving Michael Azzaro’s daughter, Beatrice, annual sales of about $118.9 mil- Carine Roitfeld, editor in Kors and Michael accessories, an all-encompassing presence on would carry on his creative legacy. lion, or 100 million euros. chief of French Vogue, wore one and Don Witkowski, president of the scale of Polo in men’s wear or “He was passionate for all The designer continued to — a crystal-detailed, white jersey Michael Kors and Michael men’s DKNY in women’s. expressions of beauty, in partic- consult on Azzaro fragrances on number based on the famous collections. Allison Ryba, who Idol spent the past two years ular the beauty of women, which an informal basis until recently, Berenson gown — to her design- continues to serve as interim at Kasper. Before that, he served he captured in such a magical Delcour said, noting that he er-studded party during Paris president until Idol officially as ceo of Donna Karan Inter- way over the past 40 years,” the helped conceive Visit, the fashion week last month. In fact, comes aboard, will then become national from August 1997 until house said in a statement. brand’s latest men’s scent. the magazine is putting the fin- president of licensing and retail. August 2001. After leaving DKI, Born to Italian parents in Azzaro introduced his first fra- ishing touches on a multi-page Susan Sokol, president of SLS Idol filed a breach-of-contract Tunisia, Azzaro studied literature grance, Azzaro Parfum Couture, feature on Azzaro, including a Consulting, consulted on the suit against his former employ- in Toulouse, France, before mov- in 1975. The brand has since de- final interview with the ailing Collection this year, and will con- ers and LVMH, which had just ing to Paris in 1962. He started in veloped 13 others. Azzaro Pour designer, in its December issue. tinue in that capacity on an inter- bought DKI, for his severance fashion with jewelry and bags Homme, introduced in 1978, is “It is definitely an Azzaro mo- im basis. payments totaling $12.2 million. and founded his couture house in the third best-selling selective ment, and we are sad that he is Turning to Kors’ growth plan, Four months later, the dispute 1968, encouraged by the editorial men’s fragrance in France, while gone,” Roitfeld said. Idol pointed out that opening was settled, and industry sources success of a jersey gown with cir- Chrome, launched in 1996, ranks Services have yet to be more freestanding stores for indicated Idol recouped his sev- cular cutouts, famously worn by ninth in the U.S., Delcour said, arranged. Besides Beatrice, 44, Michael Kors Collection is a top erance package, with minor ad- Marisa Berenson. citing Secodip and NPD figures, Azzaro is survived by another priority. The company, which has justments. Earlier, Idol spent 15 Azzaro soon became known respectively. Eau Belle, a women’s daughter, Catherine, 34. freestanding stores in New York years at Polo/Ralph Lauren. for a sculptural, body-hugging scent, ranks third in France in — WWD Paris staff

save the date May 12–14, 2004

WWD BEAUTY May 12-14, 2004 Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Miami CE For more info: 212-630-4772 [email protected] OSUMMIT 14 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003 Media/Advertising Chinese Threaten and it gets raided a lot,” said one people get nervous,” said a New person who has worked at the York staffer. “Part of that is practical magazine. “People are willing to go and, frankly, it should be a sign to MEMO PAD work at that place under ordinary Primedia to get this done quickly. Of Trade Retaliation circumstances, but no one in his or course, gossip and gallows humor NOT LOVING NEW YORK: How do you her right mind would do that right are some of the things that this Continued from page one cotton and of course the long- keep your staff at an upmarket now.” magazine thrives on.” could become linked to a broader term protection of the U.S. tex- magazine when you’re about to be While the sale of New York was Most staffers say despite worries trade dispute, Chinese authori- tiles industry,” Ahmed said. sold? That seemed to be the anticipated well before the official of there being too many cooks in the ties threatened to impose new Other WTO ambassadors, who problem this week when Vogue announcement in September, the kitchen, they would like the tariffs on U.S. products if the U.S. spoke on the condition of poached New York Magazine’s staff was hopeful the magazine magazine to wind up in the hands of does not lift steel tariffs that have anonymity, offered varying assess- fashion director, Mark Holgate, to would wind up at a better parent Daily News owner Mort Zuckerman, been deemed illegal by the World ments of the dispute, with some become its senior fashion writer. than Primedia. In the weeks who is putting a bid together with Trade Organization. Chinese au- contending that China was being Holgate’s departure doesn’t spell following chief executive Tom New York’s media columnist, thorities did not make clear what unfairly targeted and others urg- disaster for New York, but it was Rogers’ departure from the Michael Wolff, and ad giant Donny products they are targeting. ing China to show restraint in re- another grim moment in a grim few company, there was a sense of glee Deutsch. But, of course, it’s not up to The official Chinese state sponding to Washington. months for the staff, and served as among the staff. After them. — Jacob Bernstein news agency, Xinhua, quoted Vice China’s entry into the steel-tar- further proof that even the most micromanaging Miller with a Minister of Commerce Ma Xiuhong iffs dispute, which had primarily reputable titles are not impervious barrage of e-mails that generally EXCUSES, EXCUSES: When your as expressing “deep regret and involved the U.S. and EU, could to badly run parent companies. boiled down to upping the service advertisers are at your door with firm opposition to the U.S. deci- complicate matters for the Bush Although editor Caroline Miller is quotient, there was hope the pitchforks and torches in hand over sion to impose import quota” on administration. The White House respected and well liked, unending magazine might have room to take a few “misstatements” on your $600 million worth of bras, dress- has been discussing a plan with belt-tightening at Primedia and the more risks. magazine’s last report to the Audit ing gowns, robes and knit fabric. steel makers that would acceler- prospect of a sale have contributed That sentiment was bolstered by Bureau of Circulations, to whom are The Chinese government ate the phaseout of the tariffs, but to a year of departures. the firing of Primedia’s editorial you going to turn? Well, someone summoned U.S. Ambassador the EU has rejected that proposal. Miller was said by several director, Elizabeth Crow, whose ideas apparently asked the Magazine Clark Randt Thursday for an The EU is threatening to slap sources to be very upset over were seen by the New York staff as Publishers of America for help — emergency meeting to discuss retaliatory tariffs on over $2 bil- Holgate’s resignation. downmarket and sensationalist. which is interesting, considering the safeguard decision. lion worth of U.S. products if the In the last eight months alone, The magazine made real the MPA’s last president, Dan The safeguard measure con- steel tariffs are not lifted. the magazine has lost its publisher, changes. Within weeks, Miller was Brewster of Gruner + Jahr, was just tained in the U.S.-China bilater- In light of the dispute — and Alan Katz, to Condé Nast’s Cargo; back to running news stories on the grilled under oath a few weeks back al trade deal that cleared the with the memory of the collapse Intelligencer columnist Marc Malkin cover, such as a package on the about “managing the financials” at to Us Weekly; features editor turmoil at The New York Times; the one of his more troubled This is basically a symptom of a Meredith Kahn to WWD sibling W; murder of Hamptons millionaire magazines. Coincidence? senior editor Michael Steele to Us Ted Ammond; the possibility of a No, because circulation is on “broader problem of contradictions in Weekly; contributing writer Jennifer Wesley Clark and Hillary Clinton everyone’s mind these days, which Senior to The New York Times presidential campaign, and the is why the MPA sent a confidential U.S. trade policy, which is finding its Magazine; Best Bets editor Shyama Kennedy-Cuomo marital crack-up. memo to members on Thursday Patel to Seventeen, and political Miller also, according to a source with some handy talking points. reflection in issues from safeguards on columnist Michael Tomasky, who left who worked at the magazine then, MPA president Nina Link confirmed to take over The American Prospect. expressed relief that she could the contents of the letter. steel to textiles and subsidies for cotton Some of the turnover is due to finish a long-planned redesign The first thing to keep in mind, New York’s long-standing position as without having to consult Crow. according to the MPA’s letter, is that and of course the long-term protection a launching pad for talent, but as But by the fall, the prospect of a everyone audited by ABC has one staffer said, “This is not white knight seemed more distant. collectively exceeded their rate bases of the U.S. textiles industry. normal. And it [Holgate’s departure] Major publishers like Advance since 2000, so on the whole, the is a big loss.” (which owns W, WWD and Vogue), magazine industry is pretty honest. — Munir Ahmed, International Textiles ”and Clothing Bureau “It’s as bleak as I’ve ever seen Time Inc. and Hearst decided they As for those talking points, the it. The prospects just seem so grim. were going to stay out of the short answers advertisers may hear way for China’s WTO admission of trade talks in Cancún earlier David Pecker, for God sakes,” the auction, increasing staff concern magazine publishers mouthing soon allows the U.S. to impose one this year after a dispute regard- staffer said of the tabloid mogul over the potential pedigree of their are: “One, MPA supports year of quotas on imports in cat- ing U.S. cotton subsidies — WTO who is prominently in the running new owner. independent audits; two, they have egories that have seen market officials called for calm. to buy the magazine. “At first we The circulation picture and the been around a long time and they disruption. The four categories “It’s understandable that thought the sale would be really magazine’s financials have not work; three, we believe in our in question are among the few to there would be strong reactions fast, but now it’s dragging out. helped. While New York could wind auditors’ abilities to address any have seen quotas lifted under a on both sides concerning this We’re not some scandal sheet and up selling for upward of $50 compliance issues that might arise 10-year phaseout process set to particular matter,” said a WTO the chickens are coming home to million, three sources with under their rules, and four, in order end on Jan. 1, 2005. The U.S. and spokesman, in regards to the roost. No one deserves this. This knowledge of the attempted sale to meet the needs of the changing China have 90 days to work out safeguard quotas. “What is most magazine puts out really good said the circulation and financials marketplace, publishers, an agreement. If they fail, the important is that at this sensi- journalism.” of the magazine were far worse than advertisers and auditors are working U.S. can unilaterally impose tive time cool heads prevail.” Making matters worse, the sale had been anticipated. together to simplify, clarify and quotas limiting the growth of In London, where he was has made it increasingly difficult to “No one’s coming out saying it’s expedite the process.” China’s imports in these cate- conducting a state visit, fill jobs that have become vacant. not a troubled business,” said one. Remember, you heard them here gories to 7.5 percent above the President Bush told reporters “It’s a place with good people “Whenever a sale is imminent, first. — Greg Lindsay previous year’s level. that he stood by his decision on In Geneva, trade ambassa- the safeguard quotas. dors to the WTO expressed con- “Free-trade agreements re- cerns about where the safe- quire people honoring the agree- guard decision might lead. ments,” he said, according to a Referring to the planned transcript of his remarks provided Customs Issues Additional Cargo Rules end of quotas, Indian WTO am- by the White House. “There are bassador K.M. Chandrasekhar market disruptions involved with By Joanna Ramey the seal. Bonner said the seal and light sensor costs said, “On 2005, we have great certain Chinese textiles. We’re ad- about $21 and he would like to see it deployed on apprehensions.” dressing those disruptions. And WASHINGTON — Apparel and textile importers all U.S.-bound containers in a matter of months. He said concerns about a crack- we look forward to visiting with and exporters have more things to add to their se- Retailers and apparel and textile importers down on imports had prompted de- our Chinese counterparts on this curity check lists, and will shoulder more costs, have also been actively participating in voluntary veloping nations in the WTO to call particular matter….And as I have as the federal government broadens its antiter- Customs security programs, like the Customs for a two-year moratorium on an- been saying publicly, that free rorism campaign in the commercial arena. Trade Partnership Against Terrorism project. tidumping actions, starting in 2005. trade also requires a level playing As it has already done for ocean cargo, the Office Under CTPAT, if companies secure their supply Representatives of the U.S. and field for trade.” of Customs and Border Protection Thursday issued chains from tampering, their goods are less likely European Union have turned Separately, Federal Reserve manifest disclosure rules for international air cargo to undergo inspection upon arrival in the U.S. In down the proposal. Chairman Alan Greenspan said security, as well as for trucks and trains ferrying addition, cargo is further expedited if it embarks After China, India is seen as Thursday he’s concerned about goods between the U.S., Canada and Mexico. from a foreign port meeting security criteria the country best positioned to “creeping protectionism” in in- Coupled with the existing requirement for ocean under the Customs Security Initiative. grow its share of the U.S. appar- ternational trade that could im- cargo contents to be disclosed in advance of em- Customs officials couldn’t enumerate how much el market in 2005. pede the economy. barkation, “we will be able to analyze every cargo the security programs are costing companies, al- At the International Textiles In a speech before a monetary shipment entering the U.S. before it gets here to de- though the latest regulations note that “substantial and Clothing Bureau, a group of policy conference at the Cato termine whether it presents a risk…instead of new costs” will be borne. 24 apparel-exporting nations in- Institute, Greenspan made no showing up at our borders unannounced,” Customs Frank Kelly, vice president of trade compliance cluding China, Pakistan, India specific mention of the safeguard commissioner Robert Bonner told reporters. and government affairs at Liz Claiborne, said it’s and Indonesia, executive director move. But Greenspan was clearly The new regulations are designed to keep hard to quantify the cost of the new security regu- Munir Ahmed complained that reacting to the controversial trade things like explosive devices from being smuggled lations, which he said have actually made the com- the safeguard decision was a sign decision and warned that curbs into the U.S. While the regulations go into effect pany’s supply chain more efficient. of hypocrisy in U.S. trade policy. placed on international trade hin- in two weeks, Bonner said there will be a grace “You always have to figure on some air “This is basically a symptom of der “international flexibility” to period to allow businesses to adjust. freight,” for last-minute orders or to hurry mer- a broader problem of contradic- keep two-way trade moving and This latest layer of antiterrorism measures chandise to the U.S. when import quotas are close tions in U.S. trade policy, which is global economies humming. He comes at a time when Customs is experimenting to filling, said Kelly, who was attending a Customs finding its reflection in a whole said, “Consequently, it is impera- with a new cargo container seal designed to detect cargo security symposium where the new regula- host of issues from safeguards on tive that creeping protectionism tampering. Target Inc. is participating in a test of tions were announced. steel to textiles and subsidies for be thwarted and reversed.” WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003 15

CORPORATE APPAREL/UNIFORMS Sales Positions Available ADMINISTRATIVE National cataloguer, E-commerce & NYSE listed company, located in California, has sales positions available COSMETICS ASSISTANT throughout the United States in the exciting & growing Corporate Apparel General Mgr. with 30+ years experience Leading coordinate apparel co. seeking 43 store missy apparel co. has an exciting Uniform Industry. The successful candidate must have at least 3-5 years in international markets with Fortune 500 companies. Have the knowledge, experienced, highly motivated, detail opportunity in our Irvine, CA corp. office: experience in selling Business-to-Business apparel programs. Experience energy & motivation to create opportu- oriented individual to assist National in selling Corporate Apparel or Uniform Apparel programs to major Fortune nities for an organization wishing to Sales Manager. Strong verbal / written communication skills needed. Word/ CREATIVE DIRECTOR 500 customers is advantageous. We require a 4 year degree from an expand beyond the US or growing its Excel a must. Sales experience a plus. global business. Compensation flexible. • Manages the entire Creative Dept. (copywriting, image accredited college or university. E-mail: [email protected] Please fax resume to: Alfred Dunner Inc. @ (212) 719-9684 retouch, photo shoot logistics, design & print production) We are entering this lucrative market on 2 fronts. We will have a catalog of corporate casual and tailored apparel that will be carried in-stock Admin Since 1967 • Leads the creative development, design execution & printing of all catalogs and will be offered to a variety of industries/customers and we will custom W-I-N-S-T-O-N • Develops the website content & email campaigns design and manufacture apparel programs for those customers who want APPAREL STAFFING • Directs & executes all retail store collateral/signage programs their own identity. DESIGN*SALES*MERCH ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION • Ensures cohesive branding across media channels Come join our company and be part of a new and exciting business POSITIONS AVAILABLE! (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Prestige Cosmetic Company seeks: Join our Senior Management Team and help shape the venture!!. Our benefit package, salary and commission structures are very ∂ ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE (Dallas) attractive and competitive. We are an Equal Opportunity Employer. ∂ NATIONAL MAKE-UP ARTISTS (NYC) strategic direction of our rapidly growing company. ∂ Apparel Staffing, Ltd. CORPORATE SALES ASST. (NYC/NJ) See Career Openings Please send resume and contact information to: Email: [email protected] @ www.apparelstaffing.com Competitive benefits package! Fax Resume to (212) 302-1161 Med/Den/Vis, matching 401(k) & more. [email protected] Relocation considered. Ref: Corp Apparel Sales CONSULTANT Send resume & salary to [email protected] or fax (800) 854-4107. WANTED: Buyer for major Dept.store Note job code C051-02 on all correspondence to act as P/T apparel consultant to Sales N.Y. investment Co. Respond to: [email protected] detailing experience and contact info. PATTERN/SAMPLE MAKER

Bryant Pk Duplex 1100, 2000, 4500 FT. HANDBAGS 20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views CONTROLLER FREELANCER - 10 years exp. req’d. SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT Women’s Apparel Co. seeks a highly Fax resume: 516-897-9733 Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 organized, detail oriented individual to Creating Endless Possibilities... Search-www.manhattanoffices.com handle all aspects of financial & logistic functions including EDI, Customer Imagine That Service, Shipping, Traffic, Customs, ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** Imagine a company that recognizes Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC- Factor Chargebacks, Bookkeeping, and your individuality and passion, and Financial Projections. Salary commen- TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? PRODUCTION gives you the opportunity to contribute **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy.** surate with experience.Great opportunity ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE in meaningful ways from day one. A for the right candidate. E-mail resume to: Highly motivated and detail oriented company devoted to building and [email protected] COORDINATOR For Space in Garment Center High profile designer womens label pro required for dynamic skin care co shaping your future. That company seeks experienced person with strong with amazing clientele and products. exists. That company is L"Oreal USA. Helmsley-Spear, Inc. excellent communication, leadership 212-880-0414 garment construction and finishing techniques. Good communication and problem solving skills. Incredible DATA ENTRY growth oppty for an enthusiastic, Fabric converter is looking for an skills, detail oriented and organized Showrooms & Lofts to liaise with local factories. energetic individual. For more info. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS indiv. with excellent computer skills- log on to www.traciemartyn.com Great ’New’ Office Space Avail (Micro, Excel a must), Spreadsheets, Please fax resumes to: (212) 941-7215 Email resume: [email protected] & ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 P.O.’s, and billing. Must be detail ori- cc: [email protected] ented & good with numbers. Education & Business Consultants Please fax resume to (212) 354-1950 Cecile & Jeanne The Education & Business Consultant A European leader in fashion jewelry, will sell Kerastase Retail and Treatment Design Salon Manager is seeking exceptional, highly motivated products to high-end salon accounts in a sales associates for full and part-time given territory. In addition to sales, this Assistant Designer floor positions at its exclusive Manhattan position requires the Education & Showroom for Rent Entry Level Position - Great Potential salon•spa•store Business Consultant to deliver On Fifth Avenue at 35th Street. The boutiques. The ideal candidate will have Costume Jewelry Co. is seeking a detail Trump Tower aminimum of 3 yrs. sales experience in professional education and hands-on most prestigious building for accesso- oriented person with basic computer 725 Fifth Avenue training/support. The successful ries. $750 per month, (212) 967-5080 fashion retail, high-end preferred and skills for Jr. Trend & Kids. Advancement have excellent customer communication Education & Business Consultant will possible. Experience preferred but not The Avon Salon and Spa is seeking a skills. Compensation includes base salary identify and respond to opportunities essential. Fax resume: 212-714-0046 Salon Manager who believes in provid- and incentive bonus plus employee dis- that build long-term market share, as ing the best in customer service to counts on jewelry. well as maximize sales in the short Design their clients. Please fax resumes to: (212) 595-5097 term. The position must uphold the integrity of the brand by following Asst. Designer You will be responsible for developing guidelines, along with meeting expect- Well established intimate apparel co. and managing a staff of salon and hair Children’s Wear ations, goals and missions. seeks creative self starter with 1-3 yrs technicians to ensure that the Avon Well est’d. NJ Based Wholesaler seeks experience in intimates. MAC Illustra- Salon and Spa is one of the top five exp’d. Salesperson. Excellent opportunity Qualified candidates must possess a tor & Photoshop a must. BFA in fash spas in the world. We’ll rely on you to for right candidate. Fax resume/account Bachelor’s degree, along with 2-3 years design mandatory. Good benefits. maximize the booking of the salon list in confidence to: of sales experience. Must be able to ALLSTAR TKG & WAREHOUSE 201-553-1960 assess strategic customer needs and Import/Export, Dist., GOH & Cartons Fax Resume: 212-779-2535 Attn: Richie services and retail sales to ensure profitability. build alliances over time. Candidate We Label & Ship - US Customs Whse will need excellent written and verbal Master/Visa 718-945-3500 all-startrucking.com Design EXCITING OPPORTUNITY Five to ten years of management Domestic/Import Contemporary Sweater communication skills, as well as the U4ia Textile Designer experience in a salon/spa environment Co seeks experienced salesperson.Must ability to perform both education and Women’s Wear textile converter seeks Sr. sales functions. Patterns, Samples, F/T print designer w/minimum 2 years is required. Team player, strong be organized, detail-oriented and self- experience on U4ia CAD system. Must communication and facilitation skills motivated. Minimum 3 years experi- L’Oreal USA offers a competitive Production be proficient at repeats & colways as well as knowledge of industry ence. Room for growth. Fax resume to: salary and benefits package including Fine, Fast Work - Small Jobs Welcome w/excellent color sense for women’s are essential. Bachelor’s degree is 212-768-2102 ATT: Kim Famoso medical/dental/life,relocation Call Jimmy @ 718-752-9591 market, preferably w/art design back- preferred. You must be available to assistance, education assistance, ground. Excellent benefits program. support a changing schedule and SALES PROFESSIONALS company-matched 401(k), pension adapt to the growth of the business plan, and much more! For considera- Please Fax resume to: 212-290-2645 Wearelooking for energetic & extremely PATTERNS, SAMPLES, requirements. motivated sales professionals to help tion, please email your resume to: build our US team. We are a well estab- [email protected]. Subject PRODUCTIONS Fax resumes to (212) 282-6149 or lished (China/HK) trading company line of email must read WHN#1310667. All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. GRAPHIC ARTIST email to: [email protected]. EOE. seeking qualified Sales Reps specializing Or fax (212) 973-5220. EOE M/F/D/V. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. FREELANCE - Illustrator / Thorough in one of the following fields: To learn more about L’Oreal USA knowledge of Handbags & Accessories ∂ Footwear and our careers, visit: PATTERNS/SAMPLES a must. Fax resume: 212-897-3733 AVON ∂ Accessory ∂ Gift Items www.lorealusa.com PRODUCTION ∂ Housewares Samples & patterns. Full service shop Must have existing relationships with to the trade. Fine fast work. GRAPHIC DESIGNER key department/chain stores in all US 212-869-2699 Young Mens & Boys wovens and territories. Candidate must have 3-5 yrs. swim/ board co. needs graphic artist sales experience. Generous compensa- with strong creative and graphic skills. SOURCING PROFESSIONAL tion package. We are looking for both Studio Sales Fax Resume to: 212-695-1050 Ctrl NJ Apparel Mfr. seeks experi- in-house sales people and independent HIGH SALARY enced well organized professional to Marketing sales reps.Please send resume or inquiries Busy textile design studio seeks exp’d. develop prospects maintain supplier Haim Dvir @ (201) 784-9954 Salesperson. Fax resume: 212-575-2002 matrix, negotiate price /delivery for Joan Rivers Worldwide Intl. Full Package resources. Must Women’s Shoe Boutique have established network for 5 years. A ready-made, successful business. MARKETING COORDINATOR Fax 732 919 0568 or email Highly est’d & visible shoe boutique Work for one of the most fashionable [email protected] in downtown Manhattan. Great lease women in the world. We are seeking a & location. Great press & reputation. Marketing Coordinator for our beauty Serious inquiries only. (917) 941-8500 brand. This position requires 1-2 years coordinator level experience as well as aCollege Degree. Responsibilities will include order tracking, vendor relations, shipping, logistics, and much more. TECHNICAL DESIGNER Candidates must possess the ability to FULL FASHION SWEATERS High-end sweater importer seeks tech RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 multi-task and follow up on multiple projects on a daily basis. Interested designer w/minimum 2 years exp. in FF PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. sweaters. Follow timelines to manage all 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 parties may forward their resumes technical issues, fittings, grading, etc. (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 along with salary history to: Microsoft Office & Outlook required. www.resumesforfashion.com [email protected] Email resume/salary to: [email protected] 16 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2003 Queen Sofia’s Special Night ● The Sophie Dahl Green Tea Diet ● Kim Cattrall’s Humble Abode

President. This, of course, reminds history buffs of the way things used to be in the wild and wicked old days of the Borgias, King Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I. You can never be too careful in these trying times. The Bushes gave the Queen a specially commissioned set of

PHOTO BY WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY china but took the food taster home with them. ● Sophie Dahl, 23, has lost over 40 pounds since the days she won fortune, fame and Mick Jagger as a “full- figured” model by exercising fiendishly and following a strict diet. “She was a size 16, now she’s an 8, skinny as a rake and almost unrecognizable from her old self,” says a friend. Sophie says her secret weapon is green tea, which supposedly speeds up the metabolism, but some think she’s gone too far and should start having a little pudding now and then — or a lot of it. On the other hand, 26-year-old Liv Tyler’s advisors are telling her in no uncertain terms to lose weight if she wants to be offered femme fatale roles. But Liv is no Sophie. “I’ve been told that if I lose weight I’d have more work, but I refuse to submit myself to those standards. To the rest of the world I’m slim and I like the way I am.” So to hell with green tea. ● London is one very big school for scandal now and the latest whoop-de-do concerns a love triangle involving Kate Moss, 29, and her live-in lover, publisher Jefferson Hack, 31. The couple has been together for four years and has a one-year-old daughter. Every five minutes someone says they’ll be getting married in the near future, but Kate is telling anybody who will listen that she has absolutely no plans to marry Jefferson. “I wish people would stop going on about a wedding,” she says. Supposedly, the two have philosophical differences toward life. He is keen on settling down and wants to spend most of his time with their daughter and fixing up their house in the Cotswolds, while Kate is reluctant to give up her party lifestyle. She actually calls him “the babysitter” behind his back. Uh-oh. Adding to this sticky wicket, Moss has developed a close relationship with Primal Scream singer Bobby Gillespie, 41, and even sings on his band’s newest single. They’re out Liv Tyler on the town regularly these days and it’s putting a strain on her relationship with Hack, not to mention the one Gillespie has with Suzy Queen Sofia of Spain his girlfriend Katie England, the mother of his young son. Uh-oh. By Aileen Mehle Last week, the gossip soup Her Majesty Queen Sofia of Spain, every mean they’re in. How do you seemed to be near the boiling inch what a Queen should be — regal, look in yours? point at the opening of a charming, gracious and smiling —was a In the crowd: Gaetana Enders; photographic exhibition in eye® lovely sight to see in a beautiful black lace Dr. John Brademas; the Madrid London of pictures by Paul Valentino sprinkled with black paillettes, financier Placido Arango; Robert McCartney, Angelina Jolie, when she was guest of honor at The Plaza for the 50th Mosbacher; Dr. Valentin Fuster, Vivenne Westwood, etc. to benefit Annual Gold Medal Gala of the Spanish Institute, which the vice-chairman of the Institute, the Red Cross. Hack helped now, in her honor, has been renamed the Queen Sofia who sat at the Queen’s right; organize the event and Gillespie Spanish Institute. It was a very black-tie night and the Leonard Lauder; Reinaldo and Moss were both there and grandest night of all for the Spanish with Dr. Fernando Herrera; Pepe Fanjul; Alfred listen to this, Moss exhibited a Aleu, the chairman of the board of the Institute, hanging Taubman; Ezra Zilkha; Julio Mario collage of photos featuring her the 50th Anniversary commemorative medal around Santo Domingo; Mario d’Urso, and and her rock star posing together. the Queen’s pretty neck. She pointed out the exact spot others too notable and prominent Uh-oh. Has the Queen heard where she wanted him to hang it and the gallant Dr. to mention. Viva España. about this? Aleu said “I’ll try to be discreet.” Aleu also received the ● ● 2003 gold medal that night. Lauren Hutton celebrated her Kim Cattrall poured herself It was a sparkling crowd admiring the Queen, many 60th birthday Monday night at a into a smart blue number by of whom knew her well, and the ball gowns and jewels dinner given for her by artist Donna Karan with tiny spaghetti were all out in full force. Carolina Herrera, a former gold Julian Schnabel at the Schnabel straps that screamed “Sex and the medalist recipient, wore an elegant black velvet dress to residence. Lauren Hutton, 60? City” to attend the opening of the the floor — guess who designed it? — and elegant Maybe it’s that famous gap Fabulous Flowers show by aquamarines and diamonds. Annette de la Renta, always between her teeth that makes Sabbadini Jewelers at the Ingrao the fashion plate, wore a silk dress the color of Spanish her look 20 years younger. Gallery on Tuesday night. Cooing red wine and jewels to match. Emilia Fanjul was in a ● over the diamond encrusted beautiful Oscar de la Renta black evening frock with a You, dear friends, of all people bumble bees and flora were such tiny waist, a full skirt and an elaborate diamond — well, know that President George as Kenneth Jay Lane, Joanne de OK, rhinestone — necklace embroidered on the bodice. Bush and his wife, Laura, have been the guests of Guardiola, Pamela Fiore and Nina Griscom. Kim has just It came with the dress. That Oscar! Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip at Buckingham returned from Paris, where she bought enough Forties Beatrice Santo Domingo, Carmen de Pinies, Palace this week and that there was a very grand white- furniture — chandeliers and sconces — to fill her new Veronica Hearst, Jane Marino, Cecile Zilkha, Doda tie state banquet in their honor on Wednesday night Park Avenue apartment, which is being designed by Voridis, Evelyn Lauder, the super-chic Brazilian Mrs. when the Queen donned an elegant shimmering gold Tony Ingrao, who will turn it into a platinum pink and Walther Moreira-Sales and Judy Taubman all wore gown, a drop-dead diamond necklace and a blinding cream fantasy. The bedroom will have a tiered Mae West black. “I guess I’m the only one not in black,” remarked tiara. There were 170 guests, including Prince Charles, bed done up in baby pink with a chaise longue and tufted one Nan Kempner, just off the plane from London and Princess Anne, Prince Andrew, Prince and Princess velvet chairs by Verre Eglonise. She’ll have Arbus all-done-up in Donna Karan’s beige wool and rubber Michael of Kent, Tony and Cherie Blair and the armchairs and a dining table with inlaid mirrors by (would I exaggerate?) dress draped around her hips. Archbishop of Canterbury. But what you might not Jensen in the dining room. There will be four Not quite. Inmaculada de Hapsburgo, the president of know is that the secret service insisted on having a food chandeliers and eight sconces by Bagues — but don’t the Spanish Institute, shone in a one-shouldered taster in the kitchen. He had the rather fortunate job of worry she can handle that kind of light. Kim was born in iridescent brown taffeta with still another full skirt. Yes, sampling a little bit of each delicious dish and a sip of the Year of the Monkey and that means she’ll have a the very plethora of full skirts out that night can only each fine old wine before it was served to our Monkey Room. Just don’t ask what she’ll be doing in it.