Issue 7 | SEPTEMBER 2015

Limited editions Profiling fashion brand Mamnick

A different game? Historical Marketing and branding union for menswear The history of menswear

Editor’s note SEPTEMBER 2015 Contents

Marketing: he September industry keeping you up to date A look at edition of Labelling with everything you need to know. marketing and Fashion, reaches If you have a burning question branding for beyond fashion, or industry interest that you’d like to menswear 04 Ttextiles and apparel to explore see covered in our magazine, or exactly what’s going on in you would like to contribute to future News: editions, please email lynsey@ the Menswear industry. We elbowmarketing.co.uk. Stories and look at how this new market is All interesting and relevant comments developing and how branding content will be considered. We from the and labelling need to make also have advertising space industry 06 sure they are keeping up. available, so if you’re in the fashion, Menswear is a rapidly growing textiles and apparel industry, why Case Study: market that is being embraced not book a space and see how by designers, high-street retailers far your audience reaches? To see Company and buyers alike. So, we have what’s going on between issues profile for dedicated an entire edition to it. of our magazine, follow us on fashion brand We look at the similarities social media: Mamnick 08 and differences in marketing and branding for menswear, the history Review: of menswear from ancient history to present day and feature a case A look at study of a fabulous Menswear menswear designer Mamnick. Editorial team, through the There is also all of the usual ages 10 news and stories from across the Labelling Fashion

Looking behind the label Labelling Fashion | September 2015 03 Marketing

A different

game?Lynsey J Bowen looks at the similarities and differences in marketing and branding for menswear

enswear is becoming a mainstream sub-sector within the fashion industry with UK Menswear spend Mup 3.9% in 2015 and high-street stores such as New Look about to open their first ever Menswear-only store according to the Guardian. With the increase value and popularity of Menswear, we take a look at the marketing and branding of it to see if there are any significant difference these brands need to be aware of to ensure their success in this growing marketplace. On the face of it, Menswear branding and marketing seems to be taking a similar route to womenswear with their own fashion weeks, stores and celebrity endorsements. But should this be the case?

04 Labelling Fashion | September 2015 Looking behind the label Pricing strategy which takes this growth One of the key differences in the into consideration. marketing mix of a Menswear brand is Understanding the niche the pricing strategy. As there is very little and USP that your Menswear previous data for brands and retailers brand occupies is essential – to rely on, many of the Menswear you need to know where in this collections available at the moment are developing market your brand pricing their products beneath the price- fits as this will shape your entire point many men are willing to pay for marketing strategy. designer items. This is according to Greg Petro, the Everything is new president and CEO of First Insight Inc, The possibilities are endless with an analytics company that provides any new and emerging market predictive data on products that haven’t because it is still defining itself. gone to market yet. During the men’s The target audience doesn’t yet fashion shows in Milan, First Insight know what it likes and what it asked consumers which doesn’t providing a certain items on the runway amount of creative they preferred and licence, not just with how much they’d the products but be willing to with the branding pay for them. and marketing For leather as well. jackets, the Menswear most popular has been an style within the off-shoot of the fashion Men’s tastes have changed and the coats category, sector for a number of definition between men’s and women’s men said they’d years but only now is fashion has blurred. For example, men be willing to it creating a market in its carrying bags is as common a sight as spend 44% more own right. This means the women carrying bags these days. than the retail price. target audience is in charge However, men still have their own Depending on the brand and not simply making-do with what identities and social tribes in the same and clothing item, Petro said, retailers is available. way that women do and they want to could be charging 30% more than they Listen to your target audience and wear brands that reflect their personality currently do – and boost their profit they will tell you what they want, traits. This is why it is so important for margins in a big way. when they want it and how they brands to create and communicate their brand attributes to their target audience.

MENSWEAR HAS BEEN AN OFF-SHOOT OF In summary THE FASHION SECTOR FOR A NUMBER OF To conclude, marketing Menswear is a different game from traditional YEARS BUT ONLY NOW IS IT CREATING A MARKET womenswear fashion marketing, not because men are so different to women IN ITS OWN RIGHT but because the market is much newer and the target audience is still defining Market potential want to purchase it. Engagement is their preferences, both in terms of style When entering a market, especially a key, don’t assume anything based and communication channels. new one, it is important to anticipate its on what you already know from the However, Menswear branding potential. For example, the Menswear womenswear market. should essentially follow the same market in China is bigger than the golden rules as womenswear branding womenswear market where men’s clothing Brand attributes in that the brands attributes and is worth $73.3 billion in the country. This is probably one of the few elements personality need to be both defined As a result, it is essential the marketing that applies in the same way as it does and communicated effectively for the and branding of Menswear is based for womenswear. brand to come alive and appeal to the on market research and a thorough Creating and communicating the target audience. understanding of the market potential. brand attributes of a Menswear brand For more information on branding in By understanding the potential of a is essential if you are going to secure the fashion industry, check out previous market place, you can build a marketing market share in this growing market. editions of Labelling Fashion.

Looking behind the label Labelling Fashion | September 2015 05 News UK is world’s top destination for fashion students

The UK is the world’s top destination The London College of

for fashion students, according to a Fashion completed an excellent via photopin (licenses) new ranking. showing for University of the

In fashion media company the Arts London colleges by coming Source: UFV_ABSOLUTE_STYLE Business of Fashion’s (BoF) inaugural fourth in the MA programmes, The UK: Fashionable choice global list of the leading undergraduate behind the Royal Academy of and graduate fashion courses, UK Fine Arts, Antwerp. More than a quarter of the institutions institutions account for five of the 10 best The ranking was part of BoF Education, in the top 20 of best undergraduate BA and MA programmes. a new initiative providing students and programmes are in the UK. Joining Central Central Saint Martins, University of entrepreneurs with insight into the workings Saint Martins and Kingston in the list are the Arts London, was the most successful of the fashion industry and advice on the University of Westminster (seventh), UK institution – it was ranked top school how to advance their careers in it. the London College of Fashion (eighth), for undergraduate programmes and Leading fashion schools from Europe, Nottingham Trent University (14th) and the second for graduate courses. The Royal North America and Asia were ranked University for the Creative Arts (17th). College of Art took the number one spot based on BoF analysis of data from On average, UK schools scored for graduate courses. fashion schools, a survey of more than higher overall than those in the US and Kingston University was third in the 4,000 fashion students and alumni, those from the fashion bastion of Italy. BA list, trailing Bunka Fashion College, and a reputational survey of 88 human In specific criteria, the UK also scored Tokyo, in second. resources professionals and fashion better than the US and Italy in terms of The US made up the rest of the top influencers around the world. influence and value, outperforming other five undergraduate programmes and a Programmes were assessed on institutions on reputation, selectivity, and total of five US institutions feature among three criteria: global influence, learning student satisfaction with school resources the 10 best BA and MA programmes. experience, and long-term value. and careers services.

“When you take part in something From fashion graduate like Graduate Fashion Week you realise just how tiny you are in what’s such a hugely competitive industry. You have to use your initiative to stand out from the to New York shoot crowd,” she says. To showcase her garments, Amber of Venus, comes with an underwater began using Instagram as a platform to theme, taking on jellyfish patterns, pastel share her designs with the masses. colours and intricate beadwork. “I was eager to get my fashion label “My Virtues of Venus collection is my off the ground, so, not really thinking first range that is completely ready-to- much about it at the time, I uploaded wear. This time, I’m steering away from some photos to Instagram, and within Source: Derbytelegraph.co.uk couture silhouettes and more towards seconds, people from all over the world Amber Snow: Social media success every-day wear, including a selection of began ‘liking’ my images – it was so slips, bralets and smocks,” says Amber. exciting,” she explains. It’s only been three years since aspiring “The designs are still built around “From this I started networking with designer Amber Snow graduated from couture though with the handmade fashion professionals across the globe her fashion course and already her beadwork. I also used traditional fabrics and got the incredible opportunity to garments have graced the pages of including tulle and chiffon.” have my clothing featured in a New glossy magazine Vice and have been Amber graduated with a BA (Hons) York fashion shoot and fashion film, for used in a New York fashion shoot. in Fashion Design from Birmingham Ladygunn Magazine. It was a proud Now 24, Amber has just released University and went on to display her moment for me when I sealed the the third collection for her label; Amber designs at the 2014 Graduate Fashion container and jetted my designs off L Snow. Her latest range, called Virtues Week – and hasn’t looked back since. to America.

06 Labelling Fashion | September 2015 Looking behind the label Abercrombie & Fitch Co. appoints new brand leadership team

Abercrombie & Fitch Co. has announced Aaron Levine has been appointed as a new brand leadership team who the head designer for A&F Mens. Aaron will collectively help drive the A&F joined the company in July also from brand forward. Club Monaco, where he was the vice Stacie Beaver has been appointed president of Men’s Design. as the general manager for A&F Amy Sveda has been hired as the Womens. Stacie has worked at A&F general manager for abercrombie for over 15 years in a variety of senior kids. Amy joined A&F in May from Source: Abercrombie & Fitch positions. Most recently, she led the Carter’s, where she helped revitalize the Bottoms business for men and women company’s OshKosh brand. across Hollister and A&F. Christos Angelides, brand president Kurt Hoffman has been hired as said, “We have put a talented team Abercrombie & Fitch: Brand-driven the general manager for A&F Mens. in place who are relentlessly focused Kurt joined A&F in March from Club on delivering quality merchandise and a work in progress, these changes will Monaco, where he was senior director an excellent customer experience. significantly contribute to moving the of men’s merchandising. While our turnaround continues to be A&F brand forward.”

Rent rises threaten to drive New Look emerging talent out of London to launch menswear-only London Fashion Week Source: artofthesun.wordpress.com designers Lou Dalton, Jonathan stores Saunders and James Long. Charles Armstrong, founder New Look is to open five standalone of The Trampery, which has menswear stores after successful occupied the site in London trials in its flagship store on Oxford Fields for two years, said the Street, central London, and at other rent hike was unaffordable key locations. for the labels the studios are designed for. He said: “The property market in east London is changing and we The Trampery: Pushing people out weren’t naive about it, we expected an 87% rise. The The fashion retailer was bought Some of London’s most promising landlord stalled and then eventually told by the South African billionaire fashion designers face being turfed out us somebody had offered £500,000 a Christo Wiese for £1.9bn this of their studios in east London due to a year for the building.” year after months of speculation 400% rent increase. “If we wanted to we could stretch that it might be floated on the UK The Trampery, which houses a to that by filling the place with luxury stock market. handful of established designers as well labels. But that’s not what this project is Roger Wightman, New Look’s as up-and-coming businesses, will be about. It’s about providing affordable chief creative officer, said: “Menswear charged £500,000 from September – spaces for emerging designers.” is a key strategic priority for New a massive hike on the £125,000 a year “London is a fantastic place to Look, and the opening of menswear the building currently costs. build a business but it needs to be an standalone stores represents a natural The 20,000 sq ft studio complex on affordable place to provide a home for next step for us. Mare Street houses 30 labels including these businesses.”

Looking behind the label Labelling Fashion | September 2015 07 Case Study

Limited

editionsLynsey J Bowen profiles fashion brand Mamnick and its pride for quality

he brainchild of designer and brand founder Thom Barnett, Mamnick is a Sheffield-based fashion brand selling quality TBritish and Japanese manufactured menswear in limited numbers. The ethos behind the Mamnick brand is to create “one thing at a time, as beautifully as possible” and their clothing range is demonstrative of their success in achieving this aim. Their menswear collections include shirts, shoes, gilets, jackets and much more. Inspired by the Peak District, Mamnick takes its name from the road that winds its way up Mam Tor which

08 Labelling Fashion | September 2015 Looking behind the label is one of the most famous peaks. But this isn’t were the link ends, Mamnick use the famous Peaks for design inspiration and to base their manufacturing operation from. Ensuring the quality and beauty of each product goes beyond the design of the product itself for designer and owner Thom, it touches every element of the garments, especially the finishing. Getting the branding and finishing right for each and every item of But there is more to Mamnick’s clothing range is an a working relationship important part of their process. Finishing then the quality of the the products with quality, branded product as Thom goes on labels is as much a part of the process to explain: ‘The customer as the initial design concept, the service I receive from quality of the fabrics used and the GB Labels is second manufacturing process used to create to none. They are an the garments. ethical business based around friendly and helpful people.’ THE QUALITY, On a more practical level Thom also DETAIL AND values the excellent WEIGHT YOU GET communication and reliable postage system As Thom looks FROM GB LABELS used by GB Labels. ‘It to the future and PRODUCTS IS PERFECT IN is important to me that I embarks on new and am kept in the loop by my innovative designs he is HELPING ME ACHIEVE suppliers so I know I am going considering using some of to receive my goods in a timely fashion. the other labelling products GB Labels THE BEST POSSIBLE GB Labels are great at this and use a have to offer. Of specific interest to GARMENT I CAN reliable postage system which ensures Thom are the rubber badges, made of I always get my labels when they say I high-quality silicone, to provide durable am going to.’ and hard-wearing branding to his This is one of the reasons Thom ‘The whole process of working with outdoor wear. chooses GB Labels to brand his fashion GB Labels means I get a high-quality It’s not just clothing that Mamnick collection. GB Labels provide the product to reinforce the Mamnick brand, are applying their ethos of high quality custom clothing labels for Mamnick’s in good time and from great people. and limited numbers to – they also sell shirting and outerwear including The whole process is effortless.’ bike frames. their ventile, goose-down and The Mamnick 42.21 brand produces cashmere workwear. handmade lightweight bike frames also When asked why Thom chooses in Derbyshire. Working with some of the to use GB Labels for his limited edition greats from the cycling world such as Mamnick collect, he said ‘The quality, David Braillie, the Mamnick bike frames detail and weight you get from GB combine classic Italian and British Labels products is perfect in helping frame heritage. me achieve the best possible garment It seems as though it doesn’t I can.’ matter what the Mamnick brand turns Thom also values the additional its hand to, they seems to always link with the Peak District as GB produce outstanding products that are Labels are based in the Peak District truly beautiful. city of Derby, just 20 miles from his For more information about Mamnick, manufacturing operation. visit www.mamnick.com

Looking behind the label Labelling Fashion | September 2015 09 Review

Men’s Fashion Week Source: hypebeast.com

Historical

unionJustine Kiddy takes a look back at the history of menswear

ast month saw New York City host fact, history points to a very different Men’s Fashion Week, a celebrity- attitude to men and fashion. Join us as studded gathering of all that’s stylish, we step back once again and look at six suave and significant in menswear. moments when men ruled fashion. LOf course, you’ll know all about that if you read the August edition of Men in make-up Labelling Fashion, but shameless plug A strike of thick, black kohl liner; an aside, this event wouldn’t have been iridescent flash of emerald eye shadow, surprising were it not for the fact that it red lip gloss – these adorned the faces had never been held before. of both the poorest and most powerful This well-overdue recognition by a men and women in Ancient Egypt. For fashion giant, combined with the rise men, getting made-up with homemade of labels such as ‘metrosexual’, seem to cosmetics was a normal part of their suggest a tendency to view men who daily routine, as was putting on beaded are at the height of fashion as being gold loincloths and linen robes decorated unusual or somehow more curious than with jewels and gems. The legacy of the rest of the population. this behaviour is such that it continues to The reality is that in the global market, inspire fashion trends today… and all the sale of menswear has consistently because men weren’t afraid to wear a outgrown that of women’s clothing. In little (or a lot) of make-up.

10 Labelling Fashion | September 2015 Looking behind the label ornate gilding and in some cases, decorated with full battle scenes. This was a development

that was reflected historyoffashiondesign.com Source: in everyday men’s dress, which Source: holykaw.alltop.com Source: featured close fitting Egyptian cosmetics trousers to the knee, stockings, short The 16th century look coats and pointed Ruling Romans hats and shoes. In Ancient Rome, clothing was a distinct symbol of rank and class with the Capes, coats, Regency dandy famous Roman toga being reserved collars and If ever the term for men of importance. For women plumes ‘metrosexual’ could

in the latter part of the 2nd century From the 16th textilesupport.net Source: be more appropriate, BC, wearing a toga meant being century onwards, it would be to describe a prostitute! the three-piece suit the ‘Dandies’ of Regency As well as feeling powerful in their takes root with most London. Taking their cue togas, Roman men were conscious men wearing doublets, from their style guru, George ‘Beau’ Brummell enough of their thinning hair to wear jerkin and hose with Bryan ‘Beau’ Brummell, dandies wigs and style their hair to reflect the a cape or cloak. Size did matter to were hygienic, pressed, powdered changing trends. Women, on the other men of the 16th century, with tailoring and fragranced with nothing more than hand, were expected to cover their used to emphasise areas such as the clean water and soap. Their cravats were splendidly tied; their linen was sharp and thoughtfully paired with a IN THE GLOBAL MARKET, THE SALE OF short woolen coat and for the first time, long pantaloon trousers. MENSWEAR HAS CONSISTENTLY

OUTGROWN THAT OF WOMEN’S CLOTHING Source: savilerowbespoke.com heads outdoors. Similarly, women shoulders and groin, but accessories wore plain, closed shoes when out were key. Expensive embroidery, silk, of the house while men encased their gold ribbon, flowers and soft leather feet in decorative leather straps to were used in plumes, handkerchiefs, form sandals. It’s clear who called gloves and high-heeled shoes while the shots when it came to fashion in earrings, plumes, feathers and enormous Ancient Rome! ruffs were used as a symbol of virility. Savile Row The gallant knight In Medieval times, there was little role more masculine than that of a Savile Row style knight. The expansion of trade during When Savile Street was built in the the period meant a growth in skills, 1730s and occupied by tailors in the improving the way that metal could be 1800s, it sparked a real sense of pride shaped for armour. Leather and metal and prestige in the cut of a handmade were practical, but the emergence of suit. In fact, the creator of the tuxedo, silk from as far as China meant that Henry Poole, opened his Savile Row heraldic coats of arms could be added costumesofnashua.com Source: shop in 1846 and from here, it’s all to reveal wealth and status too, a move Bond; James Bond, because just over a that propelled the image of the romantic hundred years later, the tuxedo became knight into the realms of legend. the epitome of style when Ian Fleming’s By the 15th century, armour became most charming character sported a even more splendid with Renaissance tailored suit, a martini and the coolest Knight: More masculine knights wearing full metal plate with spy-story to hit the shelves.

Looking behind the label Labelling Fashion | September 2015 11