* FXHIBITION * of * FFSTIVF FOLK COSTUMES * Sept. 1952

* FXHIBITION

* of * * * FFSTIVF FOLK COSTUMES

¥ * Sept. 1952 SOUTH AMERICAN GROUP - Costumes - left to right:

PERU - Cuzco

Manfs costume, comprising a deep tan wool poncho with multicolored stripes and fringe; knee-length black wool trousers with maroon godets 'and multicolored buttons; bowl-shaped red wool hat, with flat navy top, trimmed with ric-rac and silver-braid.

Gift of Carolyn Schnurer U5.123.21bc 1*5.123.29

BOLIVIA - La Paz

Woman's costume: Full-sleeved cerise bolero jacket with multi colored pleated insets at wrist and dropped shoulder line; purple brushed wool skirt over lemon yellow, pink-lined underskirt; eyelet embroidered white cotton blouse; stiff, high-crowned white painted straw hat, trimmed with narrow black silk band.

Gift of Eleanor S. and Margaret F. Upton 1*1.135.6 a-f Hat - Gift of Carolyn Schnurer - 1*6.106.113,119 CI 46.106.150

PERU - Cuzco

Hfoman's costume consisting of a burnt orange wool jacket trimmed with multicolored ric-rac and woven braid, and light blue and orange buttons; black gathered skirt with multicolored woven bands at hem, worn over pale coral underskirt; purple manta (shoulder cape) with three broad woven stripes, predominantly red. Bowl-shaped hat of red wool with varicolored wool braid tassels and chin strap.

Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Juan F. Font CI 51.77 cd,g,j CI 45.125.24; CI 46.106.112; 114 FSRU - Cuzco Man's magenta wool knee length jacket ornamented with multicolored buttons and ric-rac, accentuating elbow "patches* and small pockets; white wool knitted helmet-like cap with earlaps, patterned in rows I of varicolored figures and stripes. Gift of Carolyn Schnurer 1*5.123.21 a, 12 CI 45.125.12 SOUTH (continued) 2. i .• iii * • •.,

PERU - Cuzco. Roman's Costume: waist length grass green wool jacket, and full gauged burgundy colored skirt trimmed with multicolored buttons, ric-rac and woven wool braid; soft green underskirt. Earth brown manta, with woven broad stripes, predominantly red. Bowl-shaped red wool hat.

Gift of Carolyn Schnurer CI 1*5.123.22,28,30 CI 45.1^5.54b Skirt - Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Juan F. Font CI 51.77 b

Accessories - left to right:

BOLIVIA - La Paz. Deep turquoise stamped velvet jacket with white silk braid applique and fringe around bottom.

Gift of Carolyn Schnurer CI 1*6.106.121

BOLIVIA - Man's multicolored striped wool stocking cap with pompom. Gift of Eleanor S. and Margaret F. Upton CI Ul.135.1*

ECUADOR - Deep carmine red wool poncho with self fringe at bottom and braid- bound collar.

Gift of Carolyn Schnurer CI U6.106.109

BOLIVIA - La Paz. Tooled dark brown leather belt with silver metal figures, animals and snowflake motifs.

Gift of Carolyn Schnurer CI 1*6.106.117

BOLIVIA -- La Paz. Joined knitted wool sleeves of varicolored stripes and figures on red ground.

Gift of Eleanor S. and Margaret F. Upton CI 1*1.135.6 d

PERU, Cuzco. Bolsa (bag) of varicolored stripes and figures on dark red ground*

Gift of Carolyn Schnurer CI 1*5.123.11

PSRU - Cuzco

Se^f-fringed,, multicolored Bolsa (bag) predominately maroon and pi: hite, with green binding and shoulder strap.

Gift of Carolyn Schnurer CI U5.123.25 Main Gallery, left side,

30UTH AMERICAN group; 1st platform. For descriptions, see ofti^r f^je. Photo Neg. No. MM23555 GtfA - Co,<. 'ightt • !•— ,...lWlH»l^ GUAT ., Chichicastenango

I.Ian's black wool'costume, iticolored""embroidery on the pull-over jacket and V oket-like back f] r "wings" of the knee-length'trousers. White shirt, red wool faja (sash), yellow embroidered red headscarf, tan tooled leather sandals. Costume - gift of Alice de la Mar Sandals - gift of Marion Hague CI 39.120.16 ab, 13 CI U0,80 ef CI ?7.5?. 13 MEXICO - Huichol Indian Man's pano (shoulder cape) of green ana i; embroidered white cotton, with deep border of red flannel, Yifhite muslin shirt with multi-colored embroidered motifs, showing large star at front. Natural straw hat with paper pendants made from colored illustrations. Bolsa (bag) of black and white geometric weave.

Gift of Irene Lewisohn 1*1.15U. 17,21,10 Hat - ^ift of Polaire Weissman. no accession number XICO - Woman's plum-colored quexquemetl with ecru floral motif embroidery and fringe, iraparound skirt, horizontally striped on rust and navy grounds. Black and ecru striped rebozo (head shawl)"wTth fringe.

Quexquemetl - Gift of £irs. Rose Covarrubias Skirt and Rebozo - Gift of Irene Lewisohn CI 37.53.20 abc

HJATEMALAN & M5XICAN GROUP - Accessories - left to right: > GUATEMALA - Chichicastenango. Red kerchief, pin striped in black with dark magenta embroidery and long tassels.

Dr. and Mrs. Emile Gordon Stoloff -&r$ttff& t.\A\£%,$ /TrjLG-J

MEXICO - Faja (waist sash) of white cotton with woven pattern in red, black, and orange, and self fringe. CI 37 J*9. d

BOLIVIA - La Paz. lShite belt of multicolored plain and patterned stripes closing at front with braided self cords.

Gift of Eleanor S. and Margaret F. Upton CI 1*1.135.1 d

dXlCO - "Jalisco

Bolsa (bag) belt: nine small square pockets of white-cotton, alternately patterned in black and red, suspended from'a black and white hip-band.

Gift of Irene Lewisohn CT.Ul.lf

MEXICO - Faja (sash) of white wool pattern l*l.l!iU.U Main Gallery, left side.

SOUTH AMERICAN group; 2nd platform. For descriptions, see opposite page.

Photo Neg. No. MM 23552 Main Gallery, ""left-side. (3rd platform).

GUATFMALA - Todos Santos. Man's loose white smock-like shirt and red plaid trousers of hand wov$n cotton; plaid head scarf wrapped turban fashion.

Gift of Marian Hague CI 46,51a-c CI 59.120.16de

MFXICO - Charro Costume. Short jacket and trousers of tan leather trimmed with silver metal buttons and chain links; wide-brimmed gray felt sombrero; fringed sarape of creamy white wool striped in red and blue.

Suit - uift of Alice De La Mar CI 39.120.lab,5 Sombrero - uift of Irene Lewisohn CI 40.194.17 Sarape - uift of Mrs. Van S. Merle-Smith CI 41.110.153

GUATEMALA - Textile. Various multicolored geometric patterns, predominantly in £ soft blue-to-violet tones, arranged in successive bands on navy ground.

Dr. and Mrs. Emile Gordon Stoloff CI 51.58.1

MEXICO - Man's poncho from Saltillo, of creamy white wool with a vivid zigzag border and center pattern woven in shades of red, blue and green. Straw hat with wide rolled brim.

Given in memory of Mrs. Cornelius J. Sullivan CI 40.65.12 CI 37.55.7 CI 41.135.1b Photo Neg. No. MM23548

Main Gallery, right side.

PFRU - Cuzco. Man's costume, comprising a deep tan wool poncho with multicolored stripes and fringe; knee-length black wool trousers with maroon godets and multicolored buttons; bowl-shaped red wool hat, with flat navy top, trimmed rith ric-rac and silver braid. Gift of Carolyn Schnurer CI 45.125.21bc CI 45.125.29 "

BOLIVIA - La Paz. Woman's costume1 Full-sleeved cerise bolero jacket with multicolored pleated insets at wrist and dropped shoulder line; purple brushed wool skirt over lemon yellow; pink-lined underskirt; eyelet embroidered white cotton blouse; stiff, high-crowned phite painted straw hat, trimmed with narrow black silk band. ^ift of Eleanor S. and Margaret F. Upton CI 41.135.6a-f Hat - Gift of Carolyn Schnurer - Cl 46.106.115,119 *CI 46.106.150

BOLIVIA - La Paz. Deep turquoise stamped velvet jacket with white silk braid apclique nd fringe around bottom. Gift of •Carqlyn Schnurer CI 46.106.121

Bolivia. • Man's multicolored striped wool stocking cap with pompom, uift of Eleanor b. and Margaret F. Upton CI 41.135.4

NOTE: The hat, while Bolivian, is not absolutely correct as worn with this costume. The costume should be worn with a derby type hat. .. %

/ Rain Gallery, left side. 1st platform, close-up.

PERU - man's costume; BOLIVIA - woman's costume; jacket, and stocking cap. For descriptions, Bee cppos/te pa$L hoto Neg. No. MM153825 Main Gallery, right side. 1st platform, close-up.

PERU - Cuzco. Woman's costume consisting of a burnt orange wool jacket trimmed with multicolored ric-rac and woven braid, and light blue and orange buttons; black gathered skirt with multicolored woven bonds at hem, worn over pa}.e coral underskirt; purple manta (shoulder cape) with three broad •woven stripes, predominantly red. Bowl-shaped hat of red wool with vari colored wool braid tassels and. chin strap.

Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Juan F. Font d 51.77 cd,g,j CI 45.123.24 CI 46.106.112:114 Photo Neg. No. MM155826

Main Gallery,(lift side. 5rd platform, close-up.

MEXICO - Charro Costume. °hort jacket and trousers of tan leather triramed with silver metal buttons and chain links: vdde-brimmed gray felt sombrero; fringed sarape of creamy white wool striped in red and blue. Suit - Gift of Alice De La Mar CI 39.120.lab,5 Sombrero - Gift of Irene Lewisohn CI 40.194.17 Sarape - Gift of Mrs. Van S. Merle-Smith CI 41.110.153

GUATEMALA - Todos Santos. Man's loose white smock-like shirt and red plaid trousers of hand woven cotton; plaid head scarf wrapped turban fashion. Gift of Marian Hague CI 46.31a-c CI 39.120.16de

GUATEMALA - Textile. Various multicolored geometric patterns, mainly in soft blue-toWiolet tones, arranged in successive bands on navy ground. Dr. and Mrs. Emile Gordon Stoloff CI 51.58.1 Photo Neg. No. MM155827 \A/W\AM/WWVW\MMA'

' A * A * A ' A ' A.' A ' A '-.'-. "

WVW»''. VWW'

• A ' A ' .. ' • '

VVWWV\A^VVVWWvW^MM VW\MAAMAWAVWWVW^ Main Gallery, center, rear.

MEXICO - Tuxtepec, Oaxaca. Toman's costume - huipil, or blous°, and wrap around skirt of brilliant crimson cotjton with fine horizontal stripes; the huipil .is embroidered with multicolored wools and silks in geometric and animal patterns; fringed rebozo of navy, with bright blue stripes, worn over the head.

Huipil and skirt - Gift of Marian Hague CI 42.64b,^d Rebozo - Gift of Carolyn Schnurer CI 46.106.124 Photo Neg. No. MM155834

(left to right)

EUROPEAN GROUP - France, Austria, Switzerland and Germany - Costumes - left to right:

FRANCE - Brittany, Woman's full-skirted, tighted bodiced dress of black wool with wide borders of silver tinsel lace and ^ayly colored chenille braid and ribbons; wide white Elizabethan type collar - starched and fluted. Costume completed by a bright silk apron, and a small white net coif on the head, with pale blue ribbon streamers and s tick pins of pale pink and blue glass balls and pendants. ' •

Gift of the Art Worker's Club Cl U5.63.59a-g Apron - Gift of Henry Frankel CI U9.6U.lg • • FRANCE - Brittany. Man's costume - double breasted jacket and vest of bright navy wool, with a yoke, cuffs and borders of black velvet, and bands of bright yellow embroidery; baggy-knee length trousers of iwriwttk pleated white wool, and black wool leg^ins with bright red and yellow embroidery and tassels. Broad brimned hat of black felt with embroidered velvet band and streamers.

Gift of Sdward Steese CI 5l.l03a-j CI 39.45.ig AUSTRIA - Bregenaer Wald

Woman's sleeveless dress of finely pleated black glazed chintz with full skirt and embroidered velvet yoke; long-sleeved blouse of purple velvet; neck kerchief EUROPEAN GROUP - France, Austria, Switzerland and Germany (continued) 5*

of soft magenta silk and apron of purple and black figured silk. Yfedding crown of silver tinsel and brightly colored ribbon bows with tiny glass Christmas tree balls and beads.

Gift of Irene Lewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 39.91.23a CI UU.35.5 CI 39.91.21c,e CI 4*.176.6 CI $0.26.1

SWITZERLAND - A festive Sen costume from Toggenburg. The Sens are the cowherds of the Alpine region of Switzerland. Costume has scarlet wool vest with silver buttons and embroidered with edelweiss, the Swiss flower; white short sleeved cotton shirt, brown wool trousers, and black leather braces decorated with gold metal cut-outs depicting cowherds, their cows and dogs, alpine motifs. The band of embroidery down the shirt front pertains to the daily life of the cowherds. The cow motif appears also on the gold metal brooch, the small leather tobacco pouch, the silver metal pipe, and the silver buckles of the heavy black leather shoes. A black velour hat, trimmed with brightly colored alpine flowers and ribbon streamers completes the costume.

Gift of Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 50.9Ua-n

SWITZERLAND - Appenzell. Woman's costume - white cotton blouse; separate pleated yoke of pale blue silk, and black velvet bodice, tightly laced over a white embroidered, satin stomacher. Winged headdress, of pleated black and white net with straw cabochons over the ears.

Gift of Mrs. Bashford Dean, through her sister, 4rs. Alexander U» -»elch CI 50.8l.la-K CI 44.80.Sin (except e,fg,) SWITZERLAND - Bern. Woman's costume f tight corset-like bodice and small collar of black velvet, trimmed with silver metal filigree ornaments and chins worn over a white blouse with very full "Gibson Girl" sleeves; full black skirt and pale green silk apron. The headdress is a small black velvet bonnet with an enormous pleated ruffle of embroidered black horsehair framing the face.

Gift of Mrs. Van S. Merle-Smith CI 1*1.110.33a-c; 35,36

EUROPEAN GROUP - Accessories - left to right;

BREGANZEIMAID. Fringed kerchief of black silk with a floral woven design predominantly purple. CI U3.12.92

FRANCE - Brittany. Jacket of black wool with a deep yoke of bright orange embroidery; wide turn back cuffs of black velvet embroidered in orange and yellow.

Gift of Henry Frankel CI U9.6U.2

GERMANY - Bavaria. Fan shaped headdress of gold tinsel trimmed with pearls and simulated jewels; large black silk ribbon bow and streamers.

Gift of Sadie M. Simon Memorial Fund CI 39.69.10

GERMANY - Swabia. Large halo headdress of wired cream lace with gold metal embroidery and simulated jewels at back of crown; loops and streamers of wide black moire ribbon hang from crown.

Gift of ^rene Lewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 39.91.21d Main Gallery,right side, European Platform.

FRANCE, AUSTRIA, SWITZERLAND, GERMANY General View. For descriptions, see opf&£ie page. Photo Neg. No. MM23550 SCANDINAVIA AND HOLIAND - left to right

DENMARK Woman's costume - red and forest green striped wool bodice with knitted red sleeves, full turkey red textured wool skirt with impressed pleats, white linen shirt with embroidery at neck, blue and white plaid apron of heavy cotton; a lace headdress is worn over a brown and green striped bonnet of faille ribbon combined with black velvet. Irene Lewisohn Bequest -CI 50.1a-fr C.I. $0.^3. \a~k w 4/ w DENMARK Woman's stiff bonnet,E£ heavily embroidered with gold and silver metallic thread and sequins and trimmed with bow and streamers of brown silk patterned ribbon. Gift of ^eaumont Newhall ci 43.1^.24 #*# NORWAY Child' s ca.p of black wool with colorful embroidery.

SWEDEN Woman's bag of black wool decorated with appliqued designs in colored wools Gift of Irene Lewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 39.91.15b CI 39.91.Be *** DENMARK Man's costume - full sleeved shirt of white linen worn with knee breeches of mavy blue wool with silver buttons; double-breasted wool jerkin blazer-striped in navy blue and coral red; black rayon satin tri-corned scarf; red knitted stocking cap with tassel, long white wool fancy knit stockings; black leather shoes with shiny silver buckles. Irene Lewisohn Bequest CI 50.82.2a-k (except d,hi) **# NORWAY (Hardanger) Woman's sleeveless bodice and .dickey of leaf green wool with border of red brocaded ribbon, geometric pattern of bugle beads and sequins embroidered on dickey. Woman's square shaped cap trimmed like bodice. Gift of Irene Lewisohn and ^lice Lewisohn Crowley CI 39.91.10cd,g *#* NORWAY Woman's green woolen belt with stylized floral embroidery of bugles and beads, Women's bright cherry red wool belt edged with narrow black velvet ribbon with bead and bugle geometric embroidery in white and amber color. SWEDEN Woman's bag of white leather with colorful wool applique in a stylized floral pattern. SCANDINAVIA Man's stocking cap knitted in red wool with black stripes, red tassel on top. Red belt - Gift of Mrs. H. Bartow Farr Other articles - Gift of Irene Lewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Cro&ley CI 37.31.3 CI 39.91.1de,72 Main Gallery, right side, European Platform.

SCANDINAVIA AND HOLLAND - GENERAL VIEW. Continued on next platform. For descriptions, see opposite page. Photo Neg. No. MM 23551 SiflEDEN - Floda, Dalarne. Woman's costume - white muslin blouse, collar and cuffs edged with crochet; ankle-length skirt of black wool broadcloth with border of floral embroidery at hem in bright colored wools, and matching embroidered bag; wool bodice of varicolored vertical stripes, small Singed shawl of flowered challis, bonnet of poppy red wool with bright floral wool embroidery, long apron of cornflower blue sheer wool.

Gift of J.L. Hudson Company CI UU.80.Ua-g

DEN - Riattvik. Oman's costume - bodice of bright emerald green self- patterned wool, white blouse woven in all over diamond pattern, full navy blu% woolen skirt with a rectangular apron like inset horizontally striped in red, green and buff; triangular floral print cotton neckerchief has a pin with diamond shaped pendants; peaked cap of black wool edged with lace, j

Gift of Irene ^ewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 39.91.8abfg; CI_U3.12.63a Gift of Beaumont Newhall (Bc-d±ce) CI U0.132

HOLLAND -Volendam. Man's costume - long sleeved vest of tulip red cotton, pin-striped in black; black bone buttons, very full trousersof heavy black wool with two large silver metal heirloom buttons; black wool cap with visor of simulated patent leather, pair of wooden sabots painted orange.

Gift of George R. Dyer Gift of Mrs. Raymond'Holland (Trousers) CI Ul.86.2c-f, CI Ul.86.U7 CI 39.U5b CI U5.68.75ab

HOLLAND - Volendam. Woman's costume - ..short sleeved bodice with low square neckline of black wool, fastened with silver filigree buttons; flowered challis dickie and fichu of white embroidered net; full skirt of wool striped, in red, blue, yellow, green and black, black woolen apron with colorful silk top; bonnet of white lace and net.

Gift of Mrs, Van S. Merle-Smith Gift of the J.L. Hudson Company (kerchief and cap) CI Ul.ll0.31a-d CI UU.80.3e-f

NORWAY - Hardanger. Man's costume - wool broadcloth coat of hunting pink and green piping and brass buttons; heavy wool broadcloth knee breeches of navy blue; white cotto y, collar and cuf .1 with black geometric embroidery; wool stocking cap with green tassel; red and green ?/ool braided garters with tasseled ends and knitted woolen stockings with idnight blue white geometric designs.

Gift of'^rs. Astrid Tellefsen in memory of Anton Tellefsen CI U6.U7a-t CI40.9.I63 wAY - Ivlan's forest green wool braadcloth vest piped with red wool a trimmed with yellow feather stitching. CI U6.U7c Main Gallery, side, European Platform.

SCANDINAVIA AND HOLLAND - General View, cont. For descriptions, see back of page. Photo Neg. No. MM23549 Main Gall V ) side.

FRANCE - Brittany Woman's full-skirted, tight bodiced dress of black wool with wide borders of silver tinsel lace and gayly colored chenille braid and ribbons; wide white Elizabethan type collar - starched and fluted. Costume completed by a bright silk apron, and a small white net coif on the head, with pale blue ribbon streamers and stick pins of pale pink and blue glass balls and pendants. Gift of the Art Worker's Club CI 45.6S.59a-g Apron- uift of Henry Frankel CI 49-64-lg

Man's costume - double breasted jacket and vest of bright navy wool, with a yoke, cuffs and borders of blac'kvelvet, and bands of bright yellow embroidery; baggy knee-length trousers of pleated white wool, and black wool leggins with bright red and yellow embroidery and tassels. Broad-brimmed hat of black felt with embroidered velvet band and streamers. Gift of Edward Steese CI 51. 1*3*-j CI 39.45.fg Photo Neg. No. *MM153824

Main Gallery, right'side.

AUSTRIA - Bregenzerwald. Woman's sleeveless dress of finely pleated black glazed chintz with full skirt and. embroidered velvet yoke; long-sleeved blouse of purple velvet; neck kerchief of soft magenta silk and apron of purple and black figured silk. Wedding crown of silver tinsel and brightly colored ribbon bows with tiny glass beads and balls. Gift of Irene Lewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 39.91.23a CI 44.85.5 CI 39.91.21c,e CI 50.26.1

Bregenzerwald. Fringed kerchief of black silk with a floral woven design predominantly purple. CI 43.12.92 Photo Neg. No. MM153832 m }

<#£$•* Main Gallery, right] side

SWITZERLAND.

A festive Sen costume from Toggenburg. The Sens are the cowherds of the Alpine region of Switzerland. For description , see Photo Neg. No. MM153833

Costume has scarlet wool vest with silver buttons, and embroidered with edelweiss; white short sleeved cotton shirt, brown wool trousers, and black leather braces decorated with gold metal cutouts depicting cowherds, their cows and dogs, alpine flowers and other alpine motifs. The band of embroidery down the shirt front pertains to the daily i^fe of the cowherds. The cow motif appears also on the gold metal brooch, the small leather tobacco pouch, the silver metal pipe, and the silver buckles of the heavy black leather shoes. A black velour hat, trimmed with brightly colored alpine flowers and ribbon streamers completes the costume.

Gift of Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 50.94a-n

At left: FRANCE - Brittany. Jacket of black wool with a deep yoke of bright orange embroidery; wide turn back cuffs of black velvet embroidered in orange and yellow. Gift of Henry Frankel ci 49.64.2 1 Main Gallery, rightiside.

MARK. Woman's costume - red and forest green striped wool bodice with knitted red sleeves, full turkey red textured wool skirt with impressed pleats, white linen shirt with embroidery at neck, blue and white plaid apron of heavy cot ton; a lace headpiece is worn over a brown and green striped bonnet of .faille ribbon combined with black velvet.

Irene Lewisohn Bequest CI 50.82.1a-k

Wmman'3 stiff bonnet, heavily embroidered with gold and silver metallic thread, and sequins and trimmed with bow and streamers of brown silk patterned ribbon.

Gift of Beaumont Newhall ci 43.12.24 Photo Neg. No. MM153830

EUROPEAN GROUP - Scandinavia and Hc-lland - Costumes (continued)

DENMARK - Man's costume - full sleeved shirt of white linen worn with knee breeches of navy blue wool with silver buttons; double-breasted wool jerkin blazer-striped in navy blue and coral red; black rayon satin tri-corned scarf; red knitted stocking cap with tassel, long white wool fancy knit stockings; black leather shoes with shiny silver buckles.

Irene Lewisohn Bequest CI 50. 82. 2 a-1

NORWAY - Child's cap of black wool with colorful embroidery

SWEDEN - Woman's bag of black wool decorated with appliqued designs in colored wools.

Gift of Irene Lewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 39.91.15 b CI 39.91.8 e

NORWAY (Hardanger) - Woman's sleeveless bodice and dickey of leaf green wool with border of red brocaded ribbon, geometric pattern of bugle beads and sequins embroidered on dickey. Woman's square shaped cap trimmed like bodice.

Gift of Irene Lewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 39.91.10 cd,g Main Gallery, riptl side.

DFNMARK, man's costume. Accessories from SWFDFN and NORWAY. For descriptions, see back of page. Photo Neg. No. MM153831 left to right: SWEDFN - Floda, Dalarne. Woman's costume - white muslin blause, collar and cuffs/edged with crochet; ankle-length skirt of black wool broadcloth with border of floral embroidery at hem in bright colored wools, and matching embroidered bag; wool bodice of varicolored vertical stripes, small fringed shawl of flowered challis, bonnet of poppy red wool with bright floral wool embroidery, long, apron of cornflower blue sheer wool.

Gift of J.L. Hudson Company. CI 44.8$.4a-g

$mm - P/attvik. Woman's costume - bodice of bright emerald green self- patterned wool, white blouse woven In all over diamond pattern, full navy blue woolen skirt with a rectangular apron-like inset horizontally striped in red, green and buff; triangular floral print cotton neckerchief has a pin with diamond shaped pendants; peaked cap of black wool edged with lace.

Gift of Irene Lewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 39.91.8abfg? CI 40.152 uift of Beaumont Newhall: bodice CI 45.12.63a

4 HOLLAND - Volendam. , Man's costume - long sleeved vest of tulip red cotton, . pin-strioed in black; black bone buttons, very full trousers of heavy black wool with two large silver metal heirloom buttons; black wool cap with visor of simulated patent leather, pair of wooden sabots painted orange.

Gift of George R. Dyer Gift of Mrs. Raymond Holland (Trousers! CI 41.86.2c-f, CI 41.86.47 CI 39.45b CI 45.68.75ab HOLLAND - Volendam. Woman's costume - short sleeved bodice with low square neckline of black wool, fsjbened with silver filigree buttons: flowered challis dickie and fichu of white embroidered net; full skirt of wool striped in red, blue, yellow, green and black, black woolen apron with colorful silk top; bonnet of white lace and net.

uift of Mrs. Van S. Merle-Smith Gift of the J. L. Hudson Company (kerchief and cap) CI 41.110.51a-d CI 44.80.5e-f m

I Main Gallery, right side. SCANDINAVI A AND HOLLAND - Grouluapp page. * For descriptions, see GpP^

Photo Neg. No. MM23554 Main Gallery, right'side.

NORWAY - Hardanger. Man's costume - wool broadcloth coat of hunting pink ^nd green piping and brass buttons; heavy wool broadcloth knee breeches of navy blue; white cotton dickey, collar and cuffs edged with blsck geometric embroidery; hand knit red wool stocking cap with green tassel; red and green wool braided garters with tasseled ends and knitted woolen stockings with midnight blue and white geometric designs.

NORWAY - Man*s forest green wool broadcloth vest piped with red wool and trimmed with yellow feather stitching.

Gift of Mrs. Astrid Tellefsen in memory of Anton Tellefsen CI 46.47a-t CI 46.47c CI 46.9.165 ^hoto Neg. No. MM155828 -— a^^ Costumes in Main Gallery, left side - not in photographs.

RUMANIA, GREECE, MACEDONIA

RUMANIA - Transylvania. Small apron of red and ns vy wroven and embroidered in silver and edged with black velvet ribbon; very long red and white fringe. uift of Lee Simonson CI 39.13.166

GREECE Man's short bolero jacket with open sleeves, of heavy white wool almost completely covered with black and white applique braid in geometric and scroll patterns.

Irene Lewisohn Bequest CI 51.112.6

GREECE - Athens. Woman's three-quarter length sleeveless coat of stiff white wool, ^ith heavy embroidery and braid applique in multicolors, black and red-orange predominating.

Gift of Irene Lewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 39.91.7b

MACEDONIA Tomato red apron of heavy wool with three tiers of thick fringe; trimmed at top with applique gold braid and multicolored crochet.

Gift of Mrs. Everett Tutchings CI 47.3.3c "••'V Gallery in front of elevator - left to right.

GROUP OF HATS AND COSTUMES - left to right

Germany - Black Forest. Straw sailor hat with large geranium red wool pompoms on the crown and the painted white brim.

Gift of Beaumont Newhall CI l*3.12.3a CI 43.1*;67a CI 43.101.IB

PORTUGAL - Viana do Castello. Apron of striped red textured wool, writh a looped woven checkerboard pattern in pink, green and yellow.

Gift of Art Worker's; Club CI I*£.68.£8d

YUGOSLAVIA - Close fitting chignon cap of black velvet, heavily embroidered in gold thread and sequins; gold fringed kerchief of black satin, embroidered in silk and silver sequins.

•Sadie M. Simon Memorial Fund CI 39.57.2 CI 39.70c CI 39.91.1b

SPAIN - Salamanca. Wrap around, bell-shaped skirt and matching collarette of scarlet wool, scallop-edged and bound in dark blue, with all-over applique floral decoration in multicolored silks, sequins and bugle beads. Gold spangled white cotton shoulder and head kerchiefs.

Gift of Irene Lewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 39*91.£a-e

AUSTRIA - Tirol. Deep cone-shaped hat of heavy shaggy black wool woven like terry cloth.

HUNGARY - Woman's bonnet of multicolored ruched satin ribbons edged with silver beads; trimmed with a hoop of field flowers across front and finished with a large bow and streamers of rose flowered brocaded ribbons.

Gift of Mrs. Van S. Merle-Smith CI 1*1.110.206

HUNGARY - Bonnet of indigo blue satin, heavily embroideredin gold and silver thread and sequins; wide, gold fringed embroidered streamers.

Gift of Lee Simonson CI 39.13.12ip CI 4O.i45.od CI 43.12.68 GALLERY IN FRONT OF ELEVATOR. General view of left half of gallery, for descriptions, see eppe^/'-fd- page.

Photo Neg. No. MM23556 (left to right)

SPAIN - Torero Costume

Bolero jacket and vest of Spanish red satin, embroidered with gold sequins, and decorated with'gold ball fringe, tassels and ornaments; heavy gold- encrusted epaulettes. White shirt, tucked and embroidered, with black satin tie. Torero hat of black velvet covered with tiny chenille and cro chet silk balls.

Gift of Irene Lewisohn and Alice Lewisohn Crowley CI 46.9,10a,c CI 50.104.Id CI 40.194.5

SPAIN - Salamanca

Wrap around bell-shaped skirt of tobacco brown broadcloth with deep border of striped black voided velvet around hem and diagonally up back; skirt decorated with applique black velvet and jet on the brown broadcloth at side back, and bronze bugle beads applied in a sce.ttered leaf motif on the black borders. Gold spangled cream lace shoulder kerchief and gold fringed collarette of flowered coppery satin worn over a bodice of black voided velvet; long narrow beaded apron with red flowered satin flounce; red and gold streamers on head, and four brass hairpins in braids.

Gift of Mrs. Colgate Greble CI 45-14£s--h Note: e,g,h, not used on costume ci 44.105.2 Cl 39.91.62a-d f

. Jfis •••". -*d-

Photo Neg. No. MM153823 AUSTRIA - Linz. Gold sequined Valkyrie-type headdress with wired bow of black lace. Gift of Mrs. Jean Starr Untermeyer CI lr5.11*1.3 CI 39.91.23b CI39.9i.23g

AUSTRIA - Hat with close-fitting headband and round flat crown bt dark brown velvet heavily embroidered in gold; rust-red ribbon streamers, brocaded in flowers and wheat stalks.

Sadie M. Simon Memorial Fund CI kh*85.18

PORTUGAL - Oval-shaped pillbox of black velvet with black ostrich and pastel colored featherson top of crown; worn over an embroidered wool kerchief of deep lemon yellow, which is tied under the chin.

Gift of Mrs. James Orme CI Ja.83.2l*ab CI 43.101.1a CI 41.8J .24*b

ITALY - Lazio. Woman's costume - fullsleeved white muslin blouse with lace insertions; royal blue velvet bodice and skirt are trimmed with red, yellow and green ribbons and braid; matching velvet foresleeves; hand woven red wool apron with wide horizontal stripes of multicolor floral embroidery; red cotton flannel souare ties at the waist and almost covers the back of • the skirt; headdress is formed by a folded and pinned white muslin kerchief edged with- lace.

Gift of Mary Brayton Emerson and ^argaret i*onr- fellow Emerson CI U6.79.Ua-g CI 44.S0.9e

ANY - Buckeburg, Schaumburg-Lippe

Woman*s headdress - the small white silk cap encrusted with beads ... and pearls is in a setting of tremendous stiffened! black satin and velvet bows extending almost to shoulder width; colorful floral brocaded ribbon ties under the chin.

Sadie --. Simon %morial Fund CI iUi.85.31 01 39. 1'}.<.<.'} ( A GALLERY 1$ FRONT OF ELEVATOR. General view of right half of gallery, For descriptions, see oppose page.

Photo Neg. No.MM23555 Gallery next to elevator.

AUSTRIA --Linz.

Gold sequined Valkyrie type headdress with wired bow of black lace.

Gift of Mrs. Jean Starr Untenneyer ci 45.141.3 CI 39.91.23& CI 39.91.23g Photo Neg. No. MM153836

Gallery in. front of elevator.

YUGOSLAVIA. e Close fitting chignon cap of black velvet, heavily embroidered in gold thread and sequins; gold fringed kerchief of black satin, embroidered in gold and silver sequins. Sadie M. Simon Memorial Fund CI 39.57.2 CI 39.70c CI 39.13.202a

Photo Neg. No. MM.153835

Gallery next to elevator.

AUSTRIA - Tirol. Deep cone-shaped hat of heavy shaggy black wool, woven like terry cloth,

Sadie M. Simon Memorial Fund ci 44.85.30 CI 50.26.2 CI 39.91.lb

Photo Neg. No. MM153829

Gallery next to elevator.

PORTUGAL/

Oval-shaped pillbox of black velvet with black ostrich and pastel colored feathers on top of crown; worn over an embroidered wool kerchief of deep lemon yellow, which is tied under the chin.

Gift of Mrs. James Orme -6^-43^3-^24frb- L\. fl, %3. 24 *, b CI 43.101.1a Photo Neg. No. MM153837 **«<

* £