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Home , Bodice, Farthingale, Hoop skirt, Jerkin, Overskirt, Partlet

Costuming Workbook

Noble Class

Noble Male & Female

Shoes: (Required) were the most common but are acceptable for festival. No zippers or modern closures should be visible.

Pouches: (Required) Pouches are used instead of to keep important items secure. Most any kind of bag without a modern closure will suffice. They can be hung from the , or, for ladies, worn under the and accessed through an opening in the seam.

Sleeves: (Required) were worn in various styles. Sometimes inner and outer sleeves were worn during colder weather. They can match the / fabric, but don’t need to. They can be attached or removable.

Tabs or Peplums: Tabs or Peplums were attached at the shoulder and of a Doublet or to add visual interest.

Tights/: (Required) or tall socks need to be opaque (not see through). Though tights can be used, socks that come to the knee or higher are recommended for of privy use. Tights that end at the ankle are permitted only if wearing boots that hide the foot opening. Men must wear a dance belt or cod piece with tights.

Noble Male & Female

Ruff: Ruffs can be smaller and with matching cuffs. The larger one requires a supportasse.

Cloak/Capelet: (Required) A can be of varying lengths and can have a hood. A short /capelet can be worn over one or both shoulders on of the jerkin.

Parasol: Parasols should be made of wood and fabric, no metal bones.

Gloves: Gloves were worn to protect the hands from cold weather or horse riding. Have a pair for when the weather gets colder later in the season.

Fan: Fans are board-like and do not fold like modern fans.

Mug/Cup: (Required) Metal, wooden, , or ceramic cups will suffice. Be aware that any ceramic or glass mugs have the potential to chip or break. Glass bottoms on metal mugs must be covered.

Belt/Basket: (Required) A leather belt or fancy cloth is used to hold pouches, blades and a cup. In lieu of a belt you may carry a basket to hold all your important items.

Garter: Ribbon tied or buckled around the knee to help keep the or tall boots secured.

Noble Male : (Required) White cotton or shirt with a stand up and cuffs. Collar and cuffs have button and loops for closures or tie strings. They should have a short pleated or gathered ruffle at the cuff and collar.

Doublet: (Required) Close fitting with a straight collar. Sleeves may be attached at the shoulders by tie points for easy removal. Skirting/peplums/tabs are optional as extra design elements.

Pants: (Required) Various styles of pants are shown below. They are typically worn with tights/hose/thick .

Hats: (Required) Some of the various styles are below. Broaches or feathers are optional as extra design elements.

Noble Male

Jerkin: A fitted over-garment without sleeves worn on top of the doublet. This can be buttoned up the front like the doublet or open in a V cut down to the waist. The jerkin can have tabs/peplums at the shoulders and a long or short skirting.

Great : A great coat has sleeves and is worn instead of a capelet.

Blade: Gentlemen would typically only wear a decorative dagger, but rapiers, long swords, and broadswords are acceptable. They must be approved, “peace tied”, and secured in a sheath at all times.

Cane: Most any fancy cane without modern ornamentation will suffice.

Jewelry: in left ear, Chain of State, medallions, rings.

Spurs: Most any spurs that do not jingle as western spurs do will suffice.

Noble Female

Below are the layers of clothing for a noble lady.

Chemise/Smock: (Required) White cotton or linen shirt can be cut hip length, but knee length is more comfortable and modest.

Partlet: This can be of a light weight fabric that is worn under the bodice or a heavy weight fabric worn on top of the bodice.

Drawers/Bloomers: (Required) Many ladies choose to wear drawers or bloomers under for comfort. Bike would also suffice as long as they are not seen.

Noble Female

Corsets: (Not required but highly recommended) A , or pair of bodies, is NOT designed to squeeze the waist down to a tiny size, but to smooth the lines of the torso, compressing it into a smooth cone shape. The waist is not overly compressed, and the breasts are flattened, resulting in a high, mounded bust line. For some ladies, a padded roll is stitched inside to help keep the bust from sinking down into the corset. They can lace up the back, front, or both. A corset may be worn underneath a bodice, but does not replace it. are not allowed to be worn alone without a bodice over top of it.

Farthingale/: (Required) A is a cone shaped hoop skirt worn by the upper classes.

Bum Roll: A Bum roll is a crescent shaped pad which is worn around the waist and under the skirt.

The Forepart/Under skirt: (Required) The forepart is a decorated front panel which may be removable or attached to an under skirt. Only the forepart will show.

Overskirt: (Required) The is a full pleated floor length skirt that may be attached to the bodice or separate. It is usually made of the same material as the bodice and opens in the front.

Noble Female

The Bodice: (Required) There are two basic types of upper-class bodice, the square necked bodice and the doublet style. Both are fitted to go over a corset. The doublet style has a high with a standing collar, and fastened down the center front. Both these styles can have shoulder wings and skirtings. A corset may be worn underneath a bodice, but does not replace it.

Hats: (Required) Hats or coverings varied widely according to class, gender, age, and personal tastes. Some of the various styles are below. Broaches or feathers are optional as extra design elements.

Needlebook: Ladies often would have embroidery to work on during the daylight hours. A needlebook can be a great prop.

Flea furs: Flea furs are worn over one shoulder or draped over a hip, attached to a belt or . It was believed that fleas would be attracted to the fur and away from one's person.

Costume Development Worksheet

Before a can be designed, one must have a full understanding of their developed Character. Complete the Character Development Worksheet located in the appendices of your Entertainment Handbook first and use it as a reference point while completing this worksheet. This form must be completed in full and submitted to the Festival Entertainment Department prior to making any purchases pertaining to your costuming. Please complete the form with as much description as possible.

Cast Member’s Name: ______Character Name: ______

Character Station (check one): Peasant Lower Merchant Upper Merchant Nobility Misc.

Use the following section to describe your proposed costume in full detail. Use the terms and style descriptions presented inside this workbook. Attaching supporting photographs, sketches and/or fabric samples are encouraged.

Head ( & Hair): ______Top Under Layer (, , , etc.): ______Top Over Layer (Vests, Doublets, , etc.): ______Bottom Under Layer (, Tights, Stockings, etc.): ______Bottom Over Layer (Skirts, , etc.): ______Shoes: ______Fabrics & Colors: ______Trims (Beads, Patches, Embroidery, etc.): ______Props & Accessories: ______Office Use Only:

Proposal Approved? Yes No Needs Work Authorized Signature: ______Design Your Own Costume Female

Design Your Own Costume Male

Costuming Resources Festival Approved Suppliers, Designers, and Costume Makers

Below is a resource listing of Festival recommended suppliers, designers and costume makers. This list is intended to save you money and help you stay within Festival costume guidelines. It is strongly recommended that you present your Festival approved costume design to a member of the Costume Committee for guidance prior to the purchasing of costume pieces, materials and/or consigning a costumer for any work.

Carolina Renaissance Festival Costume Committee (also recommended costumers) • Vreanie Calhoun 704-896-5555 x234 [email protected] • Maria Tucker 704-236-8840 [email protected] • Peggy Shirek-Oostendorp 704-905-9198 [email protected] • Derek Nieman 704-860-0673 [email protected] • Adrian Zrike 704-575-1076 [email protected]

Additional Festival Recommended Costumers • Susie Calhoun 704-560-5774 [email protected] • Jacquie H 704-650-6842 [email protected]

Fabric and Supply Resources • Ledford Fabric & More 704-732-0233 on Facebook • Midas Fabrics Multiple locations www.midasfabric.com • Dharma Trading Co. 800-542-5227 www.dharmatrading.com • Jas. Townsend & Sons, Inc. 800-338-1665 www.jas-townsend.com • Amazon Dry Goods 812-852-1780 www.amazondrygoods.com • Richard the Thread 800-473-4997 www.richardthethread.com • Lacis 510-843-7178 www.lacis.com • Fabric Wholesale Direct 855-464-6867 www.fabricwholesaledirect.com

Online Costume Stores • Adornmynts 530-363-5966 www.adornmynts.com • White Pavilion Clothiers 800-810-3758 www.whitepavilion.com • The Ren Store 520-721-8346 http://stores.renstore.com • Sodhoppers Custom 503-435-0606 www.sodhoppers.com • The Tights Goddess www.tightsgoddess.com • Scottish Leather & Lassie Wear www.scottishleather.com • The Renaissance Tailor 360-689-9014 www.renaissancetailor.com/store

Online Research Tools • Renaissance Compendium of Common Knowledge www.elizabethan.org/compendium • The History of Costume www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/history.html • Margo Anderson’s Costume Patterns www.margospatterns.com • Patterns of Time 719-573-2845 http://www.patternsoftime.com • Elizabethan Costumes www.elizabethancostume.net