DOCSLIB.ORG

Congressional Record United States Th of America PROCEEDINGS and DEBATES of the 105 CONGRESS, SECOND SESSION

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Congressional Record United States Th of America PROCEEDINGS and DEBATES of the 105 CONGRESS, SECOND SESSION E PL UR UM IB N U U S Congressional Record United States th of America PROCEEDINGS AND DEBATES OF THE 105 CONGRESS, SECOND SESSION Vol. 144 WASHINGTON, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 1998 No. 11 House of Representatives The House met at 10 a.m. Mr. GIBBONS. Mr. Speaker, I object Herger Markey Redmond The Reverend Ronald F. Christian, Hill Martinez Regula to the vote on the ground that a Hinojosa Mascara Reyes Director, Lutheran Social Services of quorum is not present and make the Hobson Matsui Riley Fairfax, VA, offered the following pray- point of order that a quorum is not Hoekstra McCarthy (MO) Rivers er: present. Holden McCarthy (NY) Rodriguez Almighty God, Your glory is made Hooley McCollum Roemer The SPEAKER. Evidently a quorum Horn McCrery Rogan known in the heavens, and the fir- is not present. Hostettler McGovern Rogers mament declares Your handiwork. The Sergeant at Arms will notify ab- Houghton McHale Rohrabacher Hoyer McHugh Ros-Lehtinen With the signs of Your creative good- sent Members. ness all about us, we must acknowledge Hulshof McInnis Rothman The vote was taken by electronic de- Hutchinson McIntosh Roukema Your presence in our world, through vice, and there wereÐyeas 353, nays 43, Inglis McIntyre Roybal-Allard Your people, and within us all. answered ``present'' 1, not voting 33, as Istook McKeon Royce So, therefore, we pray for Your Jackson (IL) McKinney Ryun follows: mercy when our ways are stubborn or Jackson-Lee Meehan Sabo [Roll No. 14] (TX) Meek (FL) Salmon uncompromising and not at all akin to Jefferson Meeks (NY) Sanchez Your desires. YEASÐ353 Jenkins Metcalf Sanders We pray for Your guidance in the Ackerman Camp Dunn Johnson (CT) Mica Sandlin choices and chances of life, so that Aderholt Campbell Ehlers Johnson, E. B. Millender- Sanford Allen Canady Ehrlich Johnson, Sam McDonald Sawyer Your wisdom will inform our decisions. Andrews Cannon Emerson Jones Miller (CA) Saxton And, we pray for Your grace so that Archer Cardin Engel Kanjorski Minge Scarborough we can place the consideration of oth- Armey Carson Etheridge Kaptur Moakley Schaefer, Dan Kasich Mollohan Schumer ers before the promotion of self. Bachus Castle Evans Baesler Chabot Everett Kelly Moran (VA) Sensenbrenner For Herculean efforts given by com- Baker Chambliss Ewing Kennedy (MA) Morella Serrano mon folk who serve their brothers and Ballenger Chenoweth Farr Kennedy (RI) Murtha Shadegg sisters every day in quiet love without Barcia Christensen Fattah Kennelly Myrick Shaw Kildee Neal Shays the herald of trumpet or headline, we Barr Clayton Fawell Barrett (NE) Coble Fazio Kilpatrick Nethercutt Sherman give You thanks, O God. Barrett (WI) Coburn Foley Kim Neumann Shimkus And, for the Olympian challenges Bartlett Collins Forbes Kind (WI) Ney Shuster faced every day by courageous people Barton Combest Ford King (NY) Northup Sisisky Kingston Nussle Skaggs who are struck down by disease or de- Bass Condit Fossella Bateman Conyers Fowler Kleczka Ortiz Skeen struction, we ask O God, for Your Bentsen Cook Frank (MA) Klink Owens Skelton intercession. Bereuter Cooksey Franks (NJ) Klug Oxley Slaughter Bless our days and our deeds in Your Berman Cox Frelinghuysen Knollenberg Packard Smith (MI) Kolbe Pallone Smith (NJ) peace. Amen Bilbray Coyne Frost Bilirakis Cramer Gallegly LaFalce Pappas Smith (TX) f Bishop Cubin Ganske LaHood Parker Smith, Adam Blagojevich Cummings Gejdenson Lampson Pastor Smith, Linda THE JOURNAL Bliley Cunningham Gekas Largent Paul Snyder Latham Paxon Solomon The SPEAKER. The Chair has exam- Blumenauer Danner Gilchrest Blunt Davis (FL) Gillmor LaTourette Payne Souder ined the Journal of the last day's pro- Boehlert Davis (VA) Gilman Lazio Pease Spence ceedings and announces to the House Boehner Deal Goode Leach Pelosi Stabenow Bonilla DeGette Goodlatte Levin Peterson (MN) Stark his approval thereof. Lewis (CA) Peterson (PA) Stearns Pursuant to clause 1, rule I, the Jour- Bonior Delahunt Goodling Boswell DeLauro Gordon Lewis (GA) Petri Stenholm nal stands approved. Boucher DeLay Goss Lewis (KY) Pickering Stokes Mr. GIBBONS. Mr. Speaker, pursuant Boyd Diaz-Balart Graham Linder Pitts Strickland to clause 1, rule I, I demand a vote on Brady Dickey Granger Lipinski Pombo Stump Livingston Pomeroy Sununu agreeing to the Speaker's approval of Brown (CA) Dicks Greenwood Brown (FL) Dingell Hall (OH) Lofgren Porter Tanner the Journal. Brown (OH) Dixon Hall (TX) Lowey Portman Tauscher The SPEAKER. The question is on Bryant Doggett Hamilton Lucas Price (NC) Tauzin the Chair's approval of the Journal. Bunning Dooley Hansen Luther Pryce (OH) Taylor (NC) Maloney (CT) Quinn Thomas The question was taken; and the Burr Doolittle Hastert Burton Doyle Hastings (WA) Maloney (NY) Radanovich Thornberry Speaker announced that the ayes ap- Buyer Dreier Hayworth Manton Rahall Thune peared to have it. Calvert Duncan Hefner Manzullo Rangel Thurman b This symbol represents the time of day during the House proceedings, e.g., b 1407 is 2:07 p.m. Matter set in this typeface indicates words inserted or appended, rather than spoken, by a Member of the House on the floor. H449 H450 CONGRESSIONAL RECORD Ð HOUSE February 12, 1998 Tiahrt Watkins Wicker I think it is all too easy in peacetime This problem is big and getting big- Tierney Watt (NC) Wise Towns Watts (OK) Wolf to forget exactly how much was sac- ger. I urge my colleagues to join me in Traficant Waxman Woolsey rificed. I think it is all too easy to for- protecting efficient, good quality home Turner Weldon (FL) Wynn get that the young men and women we health care. Our senior citizens deserve Upton Wexler Yates have in Bosnia, the situation develop- no less. Walsh Weygand Young (FL) Mr. Speaker, I submit the following Wamp White ing in Iraq, the 38,000 young Americans Waters Whitfield in Korea, all of them are risking their for the RECORD: lives, separated from their families, NATIONAL ASSOCIATION FOR NAYSÐ43 doing what it takes so that America HOME CARE, Abercrombie Gutierrez Pascrell Washington, DC, February 10, 1998. Baldacci Gutknecht Pickett can be free and safe. Hon. JAMES P. MCGOVERN, Becerra Hastings (FL) Poshard We in this House have the great Borski Hefley Ramstad honor to serve with a man who was House of Representatives, Cannon House Office Clay Hilleary Schaffer, Bob courageous in fighting for his country, Building, Washington, DC. Clyburn Hilliard Scott DEAR REPRESENTATIVE MCGOVERN: On be- Costello Hinchey Sessions a man who was courageous in serving half of the National Association for Home DeFazio Kucinich Stupak as a prisoner of war, a man who came Care (NAHC), the nation's largest home Deutsch LoBiondo Taylor (MS) back to continue serving his country as health organization representing home care English McDermott Thompson a State legislator and a Member of providers, caregivers and the patients they Filner McNulty Velazquez Congress. serve, I would like to commend you for in- Fox Menendez Visclosky troducing legislation that would address Gephardt Moran (KS) Weller We all today have a chance, not just some of the devastating inequities in the in- Gibbons Obey here in the Congress to vote on a reso- Green Olver terim payment system (IPS). We whole- lution honoring prisoners of war, but to heartedly support your legislation, which ANSWERED ``PRESENT''Ð1 call on every county, every city, and will delay its implementation and change Spratt every State some time during this 25th the base year for calculation of per-bene- anniversary year to hold an event hon- ficiary caps. NOT VOTINGÐ33 oring those who have been prisoners of As you know, IPS became effective with Berry Harman Oberstar war, honoring their families and their cost reporting periods starting October 1, Callahan Hunter Riggs children, recognizing what they do for 1997. The new per-beneficiary limits, how- Clement Hyde Rush ever, will not be published until April. This Crane John Schiff all of us, and recognizing how much means that approximately 2/3 of home health Crapo Johnson (WI) Smith (OR) our freedom depends on their sacrifice. providers will be on the new IPS without Davis (IL) Lantos Snowbarger I urge all of my colleagues to join me Edwards McDade Talent knowing what their per-beneficiary limits Ensign Miller (FL) Torres in recognizing a great American who will be. Your legislation, by delaying the im- Eshoo Mink Vento we are privileged to have serve with us, plementation date, would ensure that provid- Furse Nadler Weldon (PA) the gentleman from Texas (Mr. SAM ers would not have to be ``flying blind'' Gonzalez Norwood Young (AK) JOHNSON). under a wholly new system. b Equally important is your provision which 1023 f would change the base year for calculation of Mr. TAYLOR of Mississippi changed PROTECT EFFICIENT, GOOD the per-beneficiary caps from fiscal year 1994 his vote from ``yea'' to ``nay.'' QUALITY HOME HEALTH CARE to ``fiscal year 1995 or, at the election of the Mr. EVERETT changed his vote from agency, calendar year 1995.'' This change will (Mr. McGOVERN asked and was given ``nay'' to ``yea.'' level the playing field among agencies and permission to address the House for 1 cap reimbursement rates at more reasonable So the Journal was approved. minute and to revise and extend his re- amounts. The result of the vote was announced marks and include extraneous mate- Once again, thank you for your leadership as above recorded. rial.) on this most important issue. We look for- f Mr. McGOVERN. Mr. Speaker, be- ward to working with you to assure passage of the legislation. Please contact Eric Sokol PLEDGE OF ALLEGIANCE cause of an ill-advised provision in last or Lucia DiVenere of my staff if we can be of year's budget agreement, providers of any assistance to you. The SPEAKER pro tempore (Mr. home health care all across America Sincerely, CAMP).
Load more

Recommended publications
  • A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland
    Edinburgh Research Explorer A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland Citation for published version: Wilcox, D, Payne, S, Pardoe, T & Mikhaila, N 2011, 'A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland', Costume, vol. 2011, no. 45, pp. 39-62. https://doi.org/10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 Digital Object Identifier (DOI): 10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 Link: Link to publication record in Edinburgh Research Explorer Document Version: Peer reviewed version Published In: Costume Publisher Rights Statement: © Wilcox, D., Payne, S., Pardoe, T., & Mikhaila, N. (2011). A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland. Costume , 2011(45), 39-62 doi: 10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 General rights Copyright for the publications made accessible via the Edinburgh Research Explorer is retained by the author(s) and / or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing these publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. Take down policy The University of Edinburgh has made every reasonable effort to ensure that Edinburgh Research Explorer content complies with UK legislation. If you believe that the public display of this file breaches copyright please contact [email protected] providing details, and we will remove access to the work immediately and investigate your claim. Download date: 02. Oct. 2021 © Wilcox, D., Payne, S., Pardoe, T., & Mikhaila, N. (2011). A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland. Costume , 2011(45), 39-62 doi: 10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 A SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY DOUBLET FROM SCOTLAND By SUSAN PAYNE, DAVID WILCOX, TUULA PARDOE AND NINYA MIKHAILA. In December 2004 a local family donated a cream silk slashed doublet to Perth Museum and Art Gallery.i Stylistically the doublet is given a date between 1620 and 1630 but the family story is that it was a gift to one of their ancestors about the time of the Battle of Killiecrankie in 1689.
    [Show full text]
  • Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
    Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern
    [Show full text]
  • Antitrust Status of Farmer Cooperatives
    USDA Antitrust Status of Farmer Cooperatives: United States Department of Agriculture The Story of the Capper- Rural Business- Volstead Act Cooperative Service Cooperative Information Report 59 Abstract The Capper-Volstead Act provides a limited exemption from antitrust liability for agricultural producers who market the products they produce on a cooperative basis. Without Capper-Volstead, farmers who agree among themselves on the pric es they'll accept for their products and other terms of trade would risk being held in violation of antitrust law. Even with the exemption, agricultural producers are not free to unduly enhance the prices they charge, consolidate with or collaborate in anticompetitive conduct with nonproducers, or engage in conduct with no legitimate business purpose that is intended to reduce competition. Keywords: cooperative, antitrust, Capper-Volstead Act, law ________________________________________ Antitrust Status of Farmer Cooperatives: The Story of the Capper-Volstead Act Donald A. Frederick Program Leader Law, Policy & Governance Rural Business-Cooperative Service U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperative Information Report 59 September 2002 RBS publications and information are available on the Internet. The RBS w eb site is: http://www.rurdev.usda.gov/rbs Preface Antitrust law poses a special challenge to agricultural marketing associations. Certain conduct by independent business people-- agreeing on prices, terms of sale, and whom to sell to--violates the Sherman Act and other antitrust statutes. And these are the very types of collaborative activities that agricultural producers conduct through their marketing cooperatives. Since 1922, the Capper-Volstead Act has provided a limited antitrust exemption for agricultural marketing associations. Producers, through qualifying associations, can agree on prices and other terms of sale, select the extent of their joint marketing activity, agree on common marketing practices with other cooperatives, and achieve substantial market share and influence.
    [Show full text]
  • The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles
    The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles – c. 1790-1900 1790-1809 – Neoclassicism In the late 18th century, the latest fashions were influenced by the Rococo and Neo-classical tastes of the French royal courts. Elaborate striped silk gowns gave way to plain white ones made from printed cotton, calico or muslin. The dresses were typically high-waisted (empire line) narrow tubular shifts, unboned and unfitted, but their minimalist style and tight silhouette would have made them extremely unforgiving! Underneath these dresses, the wearer would have worn a cotton shift, under-slip and half-stays (similar to a corset) stiffened with strips of whalebone to support the bust, but it would have been impossible for them to have worn the multiple layers of foundation garments that they had done previously. (Left) Fashion plate showing the neoclassical style of dresses popular in the late 18th century (Right) a similar style ball- gown in the museum’s collections, reputedly worn at the Duchess of Richmond’s ball (1815) There was public outcry about these “naked fashions,” but by modern standards, the quantity of underclothes worn was far from alarming. What was so shocking to the Regency sense of prudery was the novelty of a dress made of such transparent material as to allow a “liberal revelation of the human shape” compared to what had gone before, when the aim had been to conceal the figure. Women adopted split-leg drawers, which had previously been the preserve of men, and subsequently pantalettes (pantaloons), where the lower section of the leg was intended to be seen, which was deemed even more shocking! On a practical note, wearing a short sleeved thin muslin shift dress in the cold British climate would have been far from ideal, which gave way to a growing trend for wearing stoles, capes and pelisses to provide additional warmth.
    [Show full text]
  • On Men. Masculine Dress Code from the Ancient Greeks to Cowboys
    On Men. Masculine Dress Code from the Ancient Greeks to Cowboys. Proceedings of the ICOM Costume Committee in Berlin, Germany 2005 Edited by Regine Falkenberg, Adelheid Rasche and Christine Waidenschlager. ICOM Costume Committee and ICOM Germany. Berlin, Germany. 2006. Price : 8 Euros + 9 Euros postage anywhere. 10 books: less 10%, 50 books: less 20%. Contact: Fr. Yvonne Feldt, [email protected] Contents: Prefaces Ioanna Papantoniou: From Nothing to Trousers: Greek Men’s Lower Body Coverings. Vassilis Zidianakis: La Fustanelle dans le Film “Infusion” de Marcus Tomlinson: Tradition et Innovation. Peter McNeil: Courtier or Macaroni? An Eighteenth-Century Man’s Waistcoat at the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto. Bernard Berthod: Le Renouveau de Costume de la Cour Papale Laïque aux Dix- Neuvième et Vingtième Siècles. Hanne Frøsig Dalgaard: Gown and Ruff: The Dress of the Clergymen if the Lutheran Danish Church. Aagot Noss: The Bridegroom’s Cross. Jean L. Druesedow: The Sartorial Art Journal: American Fashions for Men. Lucie Doležalová: Men’s Fashion in Czechoslovakia of the 1920s and 1930s in Archive Sources and Museum Collections in the Czech Republic. June Swann: Brekelenkam’s Shoemaker Paintings and Men’s Mid-Seventeenth- Century Shoes. Beata Biendrońska-Słota: Elegant Men and Polish National Costume. Elisabeth Hackspiel- Mikosch: Beauty in Uniform. The Creation of Ideal Masculinity during the Nineteenth Century. Irma Wallenborg: From Peacock to Camouflage: A Tour through the Army Museum’s Military Uniforms. Tom C. Bergroth: Dress Regulations and Reality: A Portrait and a Uniform of 1810. Isabel Alvarado: Ponchos and Mantas in the Textile Collection of the Museo Histórico Nacional. Janet Loverin: Western Dress at Nevada’s “Tin Cup Tea”.
    [Show full text]
  • Introduction to Late Sixteenth Century Men's Clothing
    INTRODUCTION TO Late Sixteenth Century Men’s Clothing 1570-1600 HUGO, JONKHEER VAN HARLO [email protected] First Printing c Clothiers’ Seminar 2018 INTRO TO LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY MEN’S CLOTHING 2 Today’s Goal • Introduce the many options in styles, cuts, and decorations of the clothes gentlemen wore in western Europe, c.1570-1600 • Share resources to learn more • Not: teach anybody to pattern or sew a damn thing. INTRO TO LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY MEN’S CLOTHING 3 In Other Words: You want garb options? We got your garb options right here. (Suck it, Anglo-Saxons.) INTRO TO LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY MEN’S CLOTHING 4 Your Lecturer History nerd. Research monkey. Not a tailor. Don’t give him fabric. Hugo has brought his late sixteenth century interests into the SCA and, for good or bad, decided to double down on his focus by fully embracing the quite- silly clothing of the era. INTRO TO LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY MEN’S CLOTHING 5 Agenda • Foundational Assumptions Disclaimer: This is a lot of content to • The Gentleman’s Wardrobe work through in fifty-five • Doublets & the Upper Body minutes. • Ruffs & Cuffs It’s likely we’ll either speed through some sections or not • Breeches get all the way to the end. • Legs & Feet • Headwear • Outerwear • Decoration & Construction • Resources FOUNDATIONAL ASSUMPTIONS FOUNDATIONAL ASSUMPTIONS 7 You will look ridiculous. Embrace that shit. It’s awesome. FOUNDATIONAL ASSUMPTIONS 8 You’ll learn to like the bizarre fashion. Really. I’ve gotten used to the era’s sartorial excesses and idiosyncrasies. Where before I would have gone, “WTF?,” now I appreciate.
    [Show full text]
  • TO CLOTHE a FOOL : a Study of the Apparel Appropriate for the European Court Fool 1300 - 1700
    Virginia Commonwealth University VCU Scholars Compass Theses and Dissertations Graduate School 1979 TO CLOTHE A FOOL : A Study of the Apparel Appropriate for the European Court Fool 1300 - 1700 Virginia Lee Futcher Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/etd Part of the Theatre and Performance Studies Commons © The Author Downloaded from https://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/etd/4621 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at VCU Scholars Compass. It has been accepted for inclusion in Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of VCU Scholars Compass. For more information, please contact [email protected]. TO CLOTHE A FOOL A Study of the Apparel Appropriate for the European Court Fool 1300 - 1700 by VIRGINIA LEE FUTCHER Submitted to the Faculty of the School of th e Arts of Virginia Commonwealth University in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirement for the Degree Master of Fine Arts Richmond, Virginia December, 1979 TO CLOTHE A FOOL A Study of the Apparel Appropriate :for the European Court Fool 1300 - 1700 by VIRGINIA LEE FUTCHER Approved: I A'- ------ =:- ::-"':'"" Advisor TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS iii PREFACE ix CHAPTE R ONE: An Overview of the Fool 's Clothing . I CHAPTER TWO: Fools From Art. • • . 8 CHAP TE R THREE: Fools From Costume Texts . 53 CONCLUSION . 80 APPENDIX •• 82 BIBLIOGRAPHY. 88 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Figure Page I. Ass's Eared Hood 1 2. One Point Hood . 1 3. Combination Eared/Pointed Hood 2 4. Ass 's Eared Hood Variation 2 5. Bird Head Hood . 2 6.
    [Show full text]
  • Jacobean Costume
    ROOM 5 & The Long Gallery Jacobean Costume The constricting and exaggerated fashions of the Elizabethan era continued into the early part of the seventeenth century. Women still wore tightly boned bodices with elongated ‘stomachers’ (an inverted triangle of stiffened material worn down over the stomach) and enormous skirts that encased the lower part of their bodies like cages. However, by 1620 the excessive padding around the hips of both sexes had disappeared, and fashion began to slim down and adopt a longer, more elegant line. The doublet became more triangular in shape and the huge cartwheel ruff gave way to a falling collar, edged with lace. The Long Gallery From the 1580s the Spanish farthingale, or portrait of James Hay, 1st Earl of Carlisle, hooped petticoat, was superseded by the who wears an elegant black and gold costume, French farthingale, a wheel-like structure that heavily embroidered with gold and silver held the skirt out like a drum. It can be seen thread, with a standing linen collar of cutwork to great effect in the portrait of Lucy Russell, and matching cuffs. Countess of Bedford. This was a style of dress expected at the court as Anne of Denmark, King James’ Queen, admired its formality. The Countess is dressed for the coronation of James I and Anne of Denmark, in a costume of rich red velvet, lavishly lined and trimmed with ermine. Lucy Russell, Countess of Bedford Robert Carey and Elizabeth Trevannion, (NPG 5688) 1st Earl and Countess of Monmouth and – Long Gallery their family (NPG 5246) – Long Gallery This rare family group shows a variety of ruffs The portrait of Sir Walter Ralegh and his son worn at this date.
    [Show full text]
  • The Details of English Fashions of the Sixteenth Century: Men's Clothing
    The Details of English Fashions of the Sixteenth Century: Men’s Clothing Examined by Decade by Margaret Roe Also published online at http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/fashions.html © 2010 1 Overview 1500s Shirts, cuffs and collars The shirt of the 1500s was full in the body, gathered into the neckline, sometimes with a narrow collar and sometimes into a scoop-neckline. The sleeves are unseen, but are probably either gathered into a small cuff or simply hemmed. Blackwork is not yet seen at the edges of men's shirts. Breeches Breeches of this decade continued to be the joined hose and codpiece of the fifteenth century. Doublets and jerkins Both doublets and jerkins are worn at this time. The doublet usually had a narrow standing collar, no more than 1" high, whereas the jerkin had a low, round neckline. Both had long skirts, extending to the knees, and both were simplify trimmed. Sleeves Sleeves are often difficult to see under the overgown, but appear to be of two common styles: either narrow but loose sleeves, or narrow to just above the elbow and full to the shoulder, possibly stuffed or padded to maintain a full shape. Sleeves usually matched the doublet or jerkin and were probably sewn into it. Over garments Finally, overgowns are seen in most portraits. These gowns fall either to mid-calf or to the ankles. They most often have very full, long sleeves, but occasionally, the sleeves are only elbow-length or are turned back over the elbows. The collar is turned back around the neck to reveal a different colored lining, which was sometimes fur.
    [Show full text]
  • Sumptuary Law by Any Other Name: Manifestations of Sumptuary Regulation in Australia, 1901-1927
    University of Wollongong Research Online University of Wollongong Thesis Collection 1954-2016 University of Wollongong Thesis Collections 2015 Sumptuary law by any other name: manifestations of sumptuary regulation in Australia, 1901-1927 Caroline Irene Dick University of Wollongong Follow this and additional works at: https://ro.uow.edu.au/theses University of Wollongong Copyright Warning You may print or download ONE copy of this document for the purpose of your own research or study. The University does not authorise you to copy, communicate or otherwise make available electronically to any other person any copyright material contained on this site. You are reminded of the following: This work is copyright. Apart from any use permitted under the Copyright Act 1968, no part of this work may be reproduced by any process, nor may any other exclusive right be exercised, without the permission of the author. Copyright owners are entitled to take legal action against persons who infringe their copyright. A reproduction of material that is protected by copyright may be a copyright infringement. A court may impose penalties and award damages in relation to offences and infringements relating to copyright material. Higher penalties may apply, and higher damages may be awarded, for offences and infringements involving the conversion of material into digital or electronic form. Unless otherwise indicated, the views expressed in this thesis are those of the author and do not necessarily represent the views of the University of Wollongong. Recommended Citation Dick, Caroline Irene, Sumptuary law by any other name: manifestations of sumptuary regulation in Australia, 1901-1927, Doctor of Philosophy thesis, Faculty of Law, Humanities, and the Arts, University of Wollongong, 2015.
    [Show full text]
  • French Farthingale Renaissance Dress
    French Farthingale Renaissance Dress The French Farthingale Dress was worn primarily in Northern Europe in the 16th century. The skirt over the farthingale was quite wide and made from a continuous piece of fabric, which was tucked up to form a ruffle on top of the farthingale. The sleeves were cut wide at the top to off set the size of the skirt. The ruffle at the neck also added height and width to the upper body. This pattern is based in the pattern from The Tudor Tailor, but altered to meet the needs of my ½ scale dress form French Farthingale Cut out two sets of the pattern using muslin (for the top and the bottom) using a ¼” seam allowance Cut out the pattern using a heavy batting or bottom weight material (used in the middle) with no seam allowance 1. Stitch the farthingale together on the outside and the inside edges, layering them Muslin/Muslin/Batting. Turn them so that the batting is in the middle and the two muslin fabrics are the top and the bottom. 2. On only one of the sides, turn the seam allowance under and stitch to close the end of the farthingale (this is at center back) 3. Stitch the boning oval lines into the farthingale. You will notice that one side of the center back is closed and the other side is open. The open side is where you will insert the boning. 4. Mark a grid work of lines that are ½” apart across the entire farthingale. Then quilt these lines, making sure that you do not stitch over the boning lines.
    [Show full text]
  • Eyewitness Accounts
    Advanced Placement U.S. History, Book 3 American Imperialism (1900) to War and Terrorism (2000s) Elizabeth A. Clark James A. Diskant Stephen Hendrick Rasé TheCenterforLearning v1.1.1 TheCenterforLearning www.centerforlearning.org Authors: Elizabeth A. Clark earned her M.A. in history from The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio. A social studies teacher and freelance writer, she is the coauthor of The Center for Learning units World History and Geography, Books 1 and 2, World History, Books 1–4, and Immigration. James A. Diskant, a Fulbright scholar, earned his Ph.D. in history and his M.Ed. from Boston College. He is an experienced high school history teacher and curriculum developer. He has led numerous workshops at the graduate and postgraduate levels. Stephen Hendrick Rasé, a National Board Certified Teacher, earned his M.Ed. from Geor- gia State University and holds bachelor’s degrees from the University of Texas at Austin. He teaches advanced placement U.S. history classes and has been a reader for the AP U.S. History exam for several years. Contributors: Jeanne M. Kish, M.A. Eileen M. Mattingly, B.S.F.S. Stephen Hendrick Rasé, M.Ed. Editors: Elizabeth A. Clark, M.A. Jeanne M. Kish, M.A. Mary Anne Kovacs, M.A. Tammy Sanderell, B.A. Cover Design: Susan Chowanetz Thornton, B.S. Cover image of abstract blue background © iStockphoto.com/Katrin Solansky ©2011, 2014 The Center for Learning, a division of Social Studies School Service. All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America The Center for Learning 10200 Jefferson Boulevard, P.O.
    [Show full text]