CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY, NORTHRIDGE CLOTHING AVAILABILITY AND PREFERENCES OF LARGE-SIZE WOMEN A thesis submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in Home Economics by Cheryl Diane James May, 1983 The Thesis of Cheryl Diane James is approved by: Prof. ~hy C. Blackman, Chair California State University, Northridge ii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author would like to express appreciation to Committee Chair Professor Dorothy Blackman for her suggestions and patience during the writing of this thesis. Appreciation is also extended to Dr. Nancy Owens and Dr. Ann R. Stasch for their suggestions and cooperation as members of the author's committee. A special note of thanks goes to Dr. Marjory Joseph for her guidance and to Craig Russell for his computer analysis. Finally, the author would like to thank her husband, Mr. Ron James, and her family for their support, patience, and encouragement during the preparation of this thesis. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS Page LIST OF TABLES . vii ABSTRACT viii CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION . 1 Objectives . 1 Assumptions . 1 Limitations . 2 Justification . 2 II. REVIEW OF THE LITERATURE . 5 Obesity Among American Women 5 Psychological and Sociological Effects of Appearance . 7 Views on Clothing for Large-Size Women, . 9 Effect of Line 9 Effect of Fabric Texture 10 Effect of Color 11 Fabric Design . 12 Garment Styles 13 III. METHODOLOGY 16 IV. RESULTS 19 Results of Survey of Catalogs and Ready-to-Wear Stores . 19 Colors Found in Catalogs and Stores for Dresses, Blouses, Skirts, and Pants . 20 Fabric Designs Available in Catalogs and Stores 21 iv IV. RESULTS (Continued) Collar Styles Available in Catalogs and Stores . 21 Dress Waistline Styles Available in Catalogs and Stores • . 22 Dress Lengths Available in Catalogs and Stores . 23 Dress Silhouettes Available in Catalogs and Stores . 23 Skirt Styles Available in Catalogs and Stores • . • . 23 Pant Styles Available in Catalogs and Stores . • . 25 Sizes Available in Catalogs and Stores 25 Fiber Contents Available in Catalogs and Stores . • . 27 Sleeve Styles Available in Catalogs and Stores . 27 Neckline Styles Available in Catalogs and Stores . 29 v. SUMMARY OF CLOTHING PREFERENCES VERSUS AVAILABILITY . • • . 30 Features in Clothing Which Were Preferred and Available 31 Stores Patronized . 31 Catalog Shopping 31 Colors Preferred and Available 32 Fabric Designs Preferred and Available . 32 Collar Styles Preferred and Available . • . 33 Waistline Styles Preferred and Available . 33 v V. SUMMARY OF CLOTHING PREFERENCES VERSUS AVAILABILITY (Continued) Dress Lengths Preferred and Available 34 Dress Silhouettes 34 Skirt Styles 35 Pant Styles . 35 Sleeve Styles 36 Neckline Styles . 37 Fiber Contents 37 Textures 38 Sizes Purchased and Available 39 VI. RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FURTHER STUDY 40 REFERENCES CITED 41 APPENDIXES 43 A. Survey Form to Determine Availability of Clothing in Catalogs and Ready-to-Wear 44 B. Questionnaire 45 vi I ' LIST OF TABLES Table Page 1. Dress Silhouettes Available in Catalogs and Stores . 24 2. Sizes Available in Catalogs and Stores 26 3. Fiber Contents Available in Catalogs and Stores . 28 vii ABSTRACT CLOTHING AVAILABILITY AND PREFERENCES OF LARGE-SIZE WOMEN by Cheryl Diane James Master of Science in Home Economics The purposes of this study were to determine the preferences of large-size women for part:i,.cular clothing features and to determine whether these desired clothing features were available in clothing from catalogs and on the ready-to-wear market. Catalogs and stores were surveyed for availability of dresses, pants, skirts, and blouses. Colors, fabric design, fiber content, textures, and garment styles were also surveyed in catalogs and stores. Generally, there was a variety of clothing available for large-size women. Sixty women living in the Los Angeles, California, area were interviewed by the use of a questionnaire. Results of the study showed that specific preferences of larger women can be satisfied in viii the current markets. Most of the women surveyed desired red and blue as their most preferred colors, straight skirts as the most desired skirt style, and polyester as the most wanted fiber content. ix CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Today many large-size women want to look beautiful and attractive, they want well-designed and well-made merchandise. In the past they have rarely been able to buy clothing that made them feel good, beautiful, and desirable. This trend seems to be changing. Manufacturers appear to be answering the needs of large women by making clqthing readily available in the ready-to-wear market and in catalogs. Objectives The purposes of the study were (1) to determine ·preferences of large-size women for various clothing features; (2) to determine sizes, fiber content, fabric designs, styles and colors preferred by large-size women; and (3) to determine if the garment features preferred by large-size women were available through mail-order catalogs and in ready-to-wear retail stores. Assumptions It was assumed that 1. the questionnaire was a valid means of collecting data, and 1 2 2. the questionnaire was answered honestly. Limitations The following limitations affected the extent of the research. 1. The sample was from one organization for overweight people (Weight Watchers), located in Panorama California; and the balance from the Steve Davis Gym, -- .,._, --- _,."'•• •• r~,, •o,-.,_.,~ ,. .. , Valencia, California. 2. The types of garments surveyed for preference and availability were limited to large-size pants, skirts, blouses, and dresses. 3. The number and kind of stores surveyed were limited due to distances and time involved. 4. The age of the subjects was limited to between 20-45 years old. Justification Big Beautiful Women, a magazine with an audience primarily composed of large-size women; recently found from a survey that these women needed clothing that fit correctly and that was becoming to their figures. Questions were posed concerning colors, sleeve styles, and necklines. However, this survey did not include questions referring to street dress types (silhouettes or styles) preferred, length of dress, waistline styles, fabric 3 design, fiber content, or fabric texture. Also, questions concerning sizes worn in dresses, blouses, skirts, and pants were not included. Edith Head's (1967:147-152) philosophy of appropriate dress for large-size women was conservative and traditional in that she thought the large-size woman should dress in clothing that would minimize her size and flatter her figure type, such as dark colors, V-necklines, and vertical stripes. The philosophy of the editors of Big Beautiful Women (March-April, 1980:4) magazine, however, is that the person should accept herself as she is and wear what she prefers in clothing, whether it be horizontal stripes, large-size prints, bright colors, or shiny fabrics. This conflict between the traditional and contemporary points of view was reflected in a preliminary survey done by the researcher. It was clear that the clothing available in stores, which tended to reflect the conservative view, was different from clothing shown in magazines with special appeal to large women. Neither conservative writers or writers for modern magazines appear to have surveyed preferences of large-size women in all aspects of clothing nor have they compared the preferences of this special group with the clothing available on the market. A survey of clothing that meets the needs of large women could benefit the wearers of such clothing as 4 well as the manufacturers and stores that sell this clothing. The wearers would have a better idea of what is available in the ready-to-wear market and in catalogs, and the manufacturers and stores might benefit because they would have a better idea of what large-size women prefer so they could make clothing to sell to this group. CHAPTER II REVIEW OF THE LITERATURE A search of the literature revealed that little research has been done on the clothing preferences of large-size women and the availability of suitable clothing on the ready-to-wear market, either in retail stores or through catalogs. However, a great deal of information about the problems facing obese women in selecting J .clothing h~s been published. One school of thought appearing in the available popular literature related to clothing for large-size women deals with obesity as an undesirable condition, with suggestions for reducing weight or for appearing slimmer by use of optical illusions. The other prevalent school of thought appears in magazines and books such as Big Beautiful Women and encourages women to accept their bodies and to dress to enhance their appearance as large women. Obesity Among American Women Approximately one-third of American women can be classified as obese. Shaw (1980:14) estimated that 30 percent of the American population is made up of obese women, with about thirty million, or one out of three adult women, wearing a size 16 or larger. Salans (1971:7) 5 6 expressed his concern that the incidence of obesity is increasing, with about 35 percent of all Americans being obese. Authorities have not been able to agree on a definition of obesity. Craddock (1973:2) characterized anyone whose weight was over 10 percent of "ideal" as obese. Hoffman (1979:142) increased the requirement to any weight over 20 percent of the "ideal" for a person to be considered obese. Salans (1971:11) set the lower limit for obesity at 25 percent over the "ideal." The present study has arbitrarily set the limit for "large-size" women as those who wear size 14~ or over. "Ideal" weight has been considered as that weight associated with the greatest longevity. It has been categorized by sex, height, and three body frames; small, medium, and large (Craddock, 1973:2; Graves, 1983:80; Salans, 1971:11). According to Seltzer (Graves, 1982:82), people at either end of the weight spectrum are at an equal health risk.