Kosmetika, Inhaltsstoffe, Funktionen

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Kosmetika, Inhaltsstoffe, Funktionen KOSMETIKA, INHALTSSTOFFE, FUNKTIONEN Hintergrundinformationen für Verbraucher 3 KOSMETIKA, INHALTSSTOFFE, FUNKTIONEN INHALTSVERZEICHNIS Hintergrundinformationen für Verbraucher Einleitung 4 www.haut.de/service/inci Sicherheit und Verträglichkeit von Inhaltsstoffen und Produkten 4 Exkurs: Risiko oder Gefahr? 4 Die INCI-Bezeichnung: Weltweit einheitliche Inhaltsstoffangabe 5 Die INCI-Kennzeichnung in der Praxis 5 Inhaltsstoffe, die besonders gekennzeichnet werden 5 Exkurs: Sind Duftstoffe Allergene? 7 Zum Hintergrund: Nanomaterialien in Kosmetika 8 Vorteile der INCI-Kennzeichnung 10 Weiterführende Informationen zu INCI 10 Funktionen von Inhaltsstoffen, die in kosmetischen Produkten Bildnachweis enthalten sein können 11 IKW (Umschlagmotiv) Beispiele für Inhaltsstoffkennzeichnungen 16 Illustrationen Beispiel 1: Zahncreme 16 Kristina Kilian Beispiel 2: Sonnenschutzlotion 16 Gestaltung und Satz Liste 1: INCI-Bezeichnungen von Pflanzen 18 Redhome Design, Nana Cunz Teil 1: Pflanzennamen nach lateinischen Bezeichnungen (INCI) 18 Teil 2: Pflanzennamen nach deutschen Bezeichnungen 60 Herausgeber Liste 2: INCI-Bezeichnungen alltäglicher Stoffe 108 Teil 1: Alltägliche Stoffe nach INCI-Bezeichnungen 108 Teil 2: Alltägliche Stoffe nach deutschen Bezeichnungen 110 Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel e. V. Mainzer Landstraße 55 60329 Frankfurt am Main Tel.: + 49 (69) 2556-1323 Fax: + 49 (69) 237631 E-Mail: [email protected] Internet: www.schönheitspflege.org Stand: Juni 2013 4 EINLEITUNG 5 EINLEITUNG Pauschale Bewertungen kosmetischer Inhaltsstoffe sind nicht sinnvoll. Im Falle einer bekannten Allergie oder einer anderweitigen Unverträglichkeit sollte der betroffene Ver- Kosmetische Mittel dienen der Reinigung und Pflege des Menschen und tragen zu braucher Produkte die für ihn ungeeigneten bzw. unverträglichen Inhaltsstoffe mit Hilfe Gesundheit und Wohlbefinden bei. Kosmetikprodukte wie Duschgel, Haarshampoo, der INCI-Kennzeichnung erkennen und meiden. (INCI: International Nomenclature of Zahnpasta, Sonnenschutzcreme, Bodylotion, After Shave, Deodorantien und Make-up Cosmetic Ingredients). Im Übrigen sollte jeder Verbraucher darauf achten, dass er sich für werden von Verbrauchern weltweit tagtäglich benutzt. Produkte entscheidet, die für seinen Haut- bzw. Haartyp geeignet sind, und dass er diese den Hinweisen auf der Verpackung entsprechend anwendet. Sicherheit und Verträglichkeit von Inhaltsstoffen und Produkten Die Hersteller prüfen und belegen die Sicherheit und Verträglichkeit der eingesetzten Die INCI-Bezeichnung: Weltweit einheitliche Inhaltsstoffangabe Inhaltsstoffe und Produkte. Pro Jahr werden in Deutschland über 3 Milliarden Kosmetik- Die Inhaltsstoffe eines kosmetischen Produktes sind in der europäi- produkte verkauft und pro einer Million verkaufter Packungen tritt im Durchschnitt schen Union bereits seit 1997 mit ihren INCI-Bezeichnungen ange- in 1,3 Fällen eine Unverträglichkeit auf (wie eine Auswertung des IKW ergeben hat). geben, in der Regel auf der äußeren Verpackung oder auch auf dem Berücksichtigt man die Häufigkeit der Verwendung sind Unverträglichkeitsreaktionen auf Behältnis selbst, am Verkaufsstand (bei Kleinpackungen, wie z. B Stif- Kosmetika selten. Jedoch können einzelne Unverträglichkeiten wie z. B. eine Hautrötung ten) oder auf einem Beipackzettel. (Wenn es einen Beipackzettel gibt, oder allergische Reaktionen nicht ausgeschlossen werden. Prinzipiell kann jeder Inhalts- ist dies mit dem Symbol „Hand im offenen Buch“ gekennzeichnet.) stoff eines kosmetischen Mittels für einen einzelnen Verbraucher unverträglich sein oder eine allergische Reaktion auslösen. Inzwischen werden die INCI-Bezeichnungen zur Kennzeichnung der Inhaltsstoffe nahezu weltweit verwendet. Exkurs: Risiko oder Gefahr? Die INCI-Kennzeichnung in der Praxis Eine INCI-Bezeichnung ist der Name eines Stoffes zur einheitlichen Kennzeichnung Die Kosmetik-Gesetzgebung schreibt vor, dass kosmetische Mittel bei bestimmungs- von Substanzen natürlichen und/oder synthetischen Ursprungs, die Bestandteile von gemäßem und vorauszusehendem Gebrauch für den Verbraucher sicher sein Kosmetika sein können. Bei den INCI-Bezeichnungen handelt es sich in der Regel um müssen. Das hat zur Folge, dass einige Stoffe für den Einsatz in Kosmetika verboten systematische englischsprachige Kurzformen der exakten chemischen Bezeichnungen. sind und dass für bestimmte Stoffe Obergrenzen festgelegt sind, unterhalb derer Aus der Reihenfolge, in der die Inhaltsstoffe angegeben werden, ist ersichtlich, welche kein Risiko für den Verbraucher besteht. Stoffe in der höchsten Konzentration enthalten sind: diese stehen an erster Stelle. Die weiteren Inhaltsstoffe werden in absteigender Reihenfolge ihrer Konzentrationen genannt; Die gesundheitliche Unbedenklichkeit eines jeden Produkts wird im Rahmen einer am Ende danach die Stoffe mit einem Anteil von unter 1 Prozent in beliebiger Reihen- Sicherheitsbewertung durch einen Experten (Sicherheitsbewerter) bestätigt. Hierbei folge sowie ggf. die enthaltenen Farbstoffe. Die Liste der Bestandteile beginnt mit dem wird eine toxikologische Beurteilung der Inhaltsstoffe unter Berücksichtigung der Wort „Ingredients“ (englisch für: Zutaten). Expositionsbedingungen (Einsatzkonzentration, Anwendungsdauer, Anwendungs- ort) durchgeführt. Somit können auf der Liste der Inhaltsstoffe eines kosmetischen Inhaltsstoffe, die besonders gekennzeichnet werden Mittels auch (nach dem Chemikalienrecht) als gefährlich eingestufte Stoffe stehen. Sonderregelungen bei der Bezeichnung und Auflistung der Inhaltsstoffe gelten für Die Konzentration eines solchen Stoffes liegt dann unterhalb der Grenze, ab der ein Rohstoffe pflanzlichen Ursprungs, für einige „alltägliche“ Stoffe, für Farbstoffe, vergällten Risiko für Verbraucher erwartet werden kann. Alkohol, Parfümöle und Aromastoffe sowie für Produkte, die Nanopartikel enthalten. 6 EINLEITUNG EINLEITUNG 7 Die INCI-Bezeichnungen für pflanzliche Inhaltsstoffe basieren auf dem System des Exkurs: Sind Duftstoffe Allergene? schwedischen Naturforschers Carl v. Linné. Sie bestehen aus dem lateinischen Namen der Pflanze (z. B. CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS für die Süßorange), gefolgt vom verwendeten Die meisten Europäer reagieren nicht negativ/allergisch auf Duftstoffe. Verbrau- Pflanzenteil (z. B. PEEL – englisch für Schale) sowie der Art der Zubereitung (z. B. EXTRACT cher, die keine Duftstoffe in den von ihnen verwendeten Kosmetika wünschen für einen Extrakt) – insgesamt also CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS PEEL EXTRACT für oder die auf einzelne Duftstoffe allergisch reagieren, können seit Einführung der einen Orangenschalenextrakt. Die INCI-Bezeichnung für ein ätherisches Öl aus Kamillen- INCI-Kennzeichnung vor mehr als 15 Jahren Riechstoffe in parfümierten Kosmetika blüten lautet beispielsweise CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA FLOWER OIL. im Rahmen der Inhaltsstoffdeklaration auf der Verpackung an der Sammelbe- zeichnung „Parfum“ erkennen. Damit lassen sich jedoch keine einzelnen Bestand- In Liste 1 in dieser Broschüre sind INCI-Bezeichnungen von pflanzlichen Inhaltsstoffen teile von Parfumölen identifizieren, sondern nur ganz allgemein parfümierte von und die entsprechenden Übersetzungen in die deutsche Sprache zusammengestellt. unparfümierten Produkten unterscheiden. Mit einer Änderung der europäischen Kosmetik-Gesetzgebung im März 2003 wurden für 26 Riechstoffe, die häufiger als Für einige alltäglich vorkommende Inhaltsstoffe werden die INCI-Bezeichnungen in alle anderen Riechstoffe im Zusammenhang mit allergischen Reaktionen stehen, Anlehnung an die Begriffe des Europäischen Arzneibuchs ebenfalls meist in lateinischer neue Vorschriften erlassen. Bei Übersteigen von festgelegten Konzentrationen Sprache ausgedrückt, wie z. B. „AQUA“ für Wasser und „CERA ALBA“ für Bienenwachs; müssen diese Stoffe auf der Verpackung eines kosmetischen Mittels mit ihrer manchmal aber auch in englischer Sprache, wie z. B. bei „SHEEP MILK“ (Schafsmilch). ­INCI-Bezeichnung angegeben werden. Liegen die enthaltenen Konzentrationen dieser Stoffe unterhalb dieses Wertes, wird nicht mehr von einem relevanten Risiko In Liste 2 am Ende dieser Broschüre sind INCI-Bezeichnungen einiger alltäglicher Stoffe der Allergieauslösung ausgegangen. und die entsprechenden Übersetzungen in die deutsche Sprache zusammengestellt. Die folgenden 26 Stoffe werden bei der INCI-Deklaration zusätzlich zu der Sammel- Für Farbstoffe sind die gültigen INCI-Bezeichnungen die so genannten Colour-Index- bezeichnung „Parfum“ einzeln aufgeführt: Nummern (CI), z. B. „CI 77288“. Bei dekorativen Kosmetika (z. B. Lidschatten), die in mehreren Farb-Nuancen angeboten werden, erfolgt manchmal eine Auflistung der Amyl cinnamal, Anise alcohol, Amylcinnamyl alcohol, Benzyl benzoate, Benzyl verschiedenen Farbstoffe nach dem Zeichen „+/–“ in eckigen Klammern, z. B. alcohol, Benzyl cinnamate, Benzyl salicylate, Citronellol, Cinnamyl alcohol, Farnesol, „[+/– CI 15580, CI 18965, CI …]“. Das Zeichen +/– bedeutet „kann enthalten“. Damit Cinnamal, Hexyl cinnamal, Citral, Butylphenyl methylpropional, Coumarin, Limonene, ist es möglich, alle Farbstoffe anzugeben, die in einer ganzen Farbpalette von deko- Eugenol, Linalool, Geraniol, Methyl 2-octynoate, Hydroxycitronellal, Alpha-isomethyl rativen Kosmetika (Make-up-Produkten) vorkommen können, die aber nicht unbedingt ionone, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde, Evernia prunastri extract, in jeder Farbnuance enthalten sind. Isoeugenol, Evernia furfuracea extract Vergällter Alkohol wird mit „ALCOHOL DENAT.“ (alternativ mit „ALCOHOL“ und dem Namen des Vergällungsmittels)
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