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The Citrus Notes of Fragrance, 2012 The Citrus Notes of Fragrance Glen O. Brechbill Fragrance Books Inc. www.perfumerbook.com New Jersey - USA 2012 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Citrus Notes “To my late much loved father Ray and beloved mother Helen Roberta without them non of this work would have been possible” II THE CITRUS NOTES OF FRAGRANCE © This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Brechbill, Glen O. The Citrus Notes of Fragrance / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 220 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # Copyright © 2012 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Citrus Notes of Fragrance About the Book What is this book about one asks? other then trace amounts. Its a The fragrance, which you are pur- To put it as simply as possible it is shame that this legislation is slowly chasing, includes the following nat- about the major citrus notes that are destroying the classic fragrances ural or essential oils. If you are used in the fine art of fragrance cre- and in the process ruining a fine art allergic to any of these materials ation. as we know it today. please do not purchase the product. The said ingredient has been added Citrus notes find their ways into a Many clients want natural materials to the fragrance blend to add struc- wide variety of fragrance types. In in their fragrance blends. Due to ture and beauty to the fragrance. household type product category the ever increasing regulatory hys- for example they can make up the teria this is not happening. I think Keep in mind that synthetic fra- majority of a single note fragrance. it should be up to the consumer to grance ingredients are based on In fine fragrances they represent an decide whether or not to use any petroleum. I believe in the near entire family, and or a top note con- given product that can be found on future that folks will experience struction of a scent. the www, or on the store shelves. sooner or later problems even with these unknown synergy's or fra- When I started this book I thought Take for example the peanut allergy grance blends. Employing essen- about adding several hundred com- problem that many individuals tial oils in fragrances help to add positions to it. This process can have to live with including my substance to otherwise bland for- take several extra months of work. niece. I don't cook with nuts, and mulas. The compositions or formulas can would never incorporate any nuts be added at a latter date. that I love into any dishes when she Instead the big five which includes is visiting. I happen to love them, the Givaudan Fragrance The citrus family is under pressure but eat them now and then since Corporation, Firmenich, Inc., from the folks at ( IFRA ) other they are supposedly good at lower- International Flavors & Fragrances, wise known as the International ing ones cholesterol. Do we ban Symrise and Takasago International Fragrance Regulatory Association peanuts as a consequence? created ( IFRA ), and are slowly in based at the Givaudan Fragrance the process of destroying the art Corporation headquarters in A simple solution to the allergic that their business was originally Geneva, Switzerland. problem some folk's experience founded on. with essential oils is to place a sim- As time goes by more and more ple warning label on the product. Anytime an industry forgets their pressure is being placed on the lim- roots one is dooming the creativity ited use of essential oils in anything It could appear as follows: that created many of these great fra- 3 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill grance houses. Several of them one asks? The Wikipedia on line beloved mother who god bless is even started out as an essential oil free Encyclopedia. Of course the still with me. It has been hard since company. The International material is incomplete. However, at present she is 95 with dementia. Flavors & Fragrances started from the word free means just that. In order to deal with the stress of this humble beginning. elder care and being underem- My next book will be on the Spices. ployed the creative work is an out- Many fok's who are both knowl- Why do I do these books? Simply let for dealing with the stress. edgeable and fragrance illiterate put the fragrance industry and the falsely believe fragrances that con- art has black listed me as a conse- It is my hope that one day my hard tain close to zero natural materials quence of my self-education into work will be recognized. Everyone are better then those that do. I per- this coveted profession. I did the from the ancient pharaohs to sonally believe the other side of the work to become an artist. today's billionaires want to live for- coin. Household fragrances created However, without apprenticing I ever. Some make money in life, less then twenty years ago con- bruised some over paid ego's who whereas others accumulate riches tained more essential oil ingredi- say one can not learn the art with- in terms of knowledge. I have fash- ents then the ones that are created out a one on one education. ioned a large database of pertinent for fine fragrances today. Otherwise known as a mentor. yet fascinating information on the art of perfume. Personally I believe the fine fra- What I say to this is basically it is grances of today are simpler in con- full of bologna. I started my short In a way my work and web site has struction containing a lot less mate- career with a small Italian owned allowed me to get creatively even rials then the household formulas of fragrance house as a material han- with a former employer and indus- years ago. Customers want cheap- dler and junior compounder. try that said I wasn't good enough er and cheaper fragrances that smell During my five years of employ- to become an artist. Again, each like a million bucks. As most know ment I wore many hats and handled manuscript I create is also a vindi- and few realize this is impossible to many jobs. cation of my skills in the art of fra- achieve with a blend made up pre- grance. My books will not have a dominately of few aromatic materi- I was promoted to a junior per- thousand permutations like a single als. Many of the fragrances of fumer as a ruse to gain my rough fragrance. However, in my case I today crash quickly, and again this notes that went into my first book. have slowly created during the past is based on the synthetics. One day I was set up and soon seven years at least a dozen off found myself unemployable due to spring from my second book. Planet earth's petroleum reserves age and the way my exit was are a dwindling resource. At some arranged. No one today would hire I will continue to create this infor- point we will run out of easy oil in a white male over forty for an mation as I can come up with new the next thirty to fifty years time. I entry-level job of any sort. I did ideas and ways of shaping the will not be here to see it happen, but work as a temp for seven plus information. Most perfumers will do know one day cars will not run years. have many fragrances to his and her on petroleum. I keep wondering credit during a lifetime of work. what fragrances will be based on. During the past ten years I have His and her employer will own this been involved daily in the care of creative work. Few books of sub- Where did I get the articles that are aging parents. The past seven years stance are ever written simply due included on the major citrus notes I have been taking care of my much to the fact that there is no motiva- 4 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Citrus Notes of Fragrance tion to create one once you enter this secretive profession. In my case I will never be recog- nized for a single fragrance, but a body of work no one will hopefully ever duplicate. My books on the art have been well received on the www. If folks take an issue on the way I collected this data I don't really care. All of my books are registered with the Library of Congress, and are protected by the Copyright Law. Again, I did these books as a way to get even with a former vindictive employer who cost me a prestigious job and a career in a fascinating profession. The industry has black listed me, and my work is a way to showcase my creative talents. A single book of notes has given rise to many variations.
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  • Studies on the Extraction and Characterization of Pectin and Bitter
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