KISARALIK RIVER

A WILD AND SCENIC RIVER ANALYSIS

by the

· . neritage Conservation & Recreation Service

October 1979

Anchor an '. - .. . . ·.. :~ .• . . . ~~ ., ·. ARLIS .· .· Resources Uotary & Information Services AlM INTRODUCTION

At the request of the Bureau of Land Management, the Heritage Conservation and Recreation Service made an independent study of the resources of the

Kisaralik River area to determine the river's suitability for designation as a component of the National Wild and Scenic River System.

In the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act (PL. 90-542) Congress stated:

"It is hereby declareq to be the policy of the United States that certain selected rivers of the Nation which with their immediate envi:r:onments, possess outstandingly remarkable scenic, recreational, geologic, fish and wildlife, historic, cultural, or other similar values, shall be preserved in free-flowing condition, and that they and their immediate environments shall be protected for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations."

Ibis study was made in compliance with ~he Act.

An interagency field inspection was conducted of the Kisaralik River in

July 1978. Participating in the inspection were:

Bureau of Land Management U.s. Fish & Wildlife Service

State of AI;aska, Division Heritage Conseravtion &

of Parks Recreation Service

The following analysis is largel~ based on information obtained during the interagency field inspection; the Kisaralik River Report of August 7-14, 1976, by BLM staff (unpublished); the BOR aerial reconaissance in 1977; and library materials. THE RIVER AND ITS SETTING

~eral Setting

The 3,000-4,000 foot high run from near the central

Yukon River in a southwest direction to the Bering Sea. The

one of Alaska's largest rivers, bisects these mountains while flowing

\ to Kuskokwim Bay and the Bering Sea. The Kilbuck Mountains are a part of th; . ~-.. :~ Kuskokwim Mountain system, lying in their southern portion. Kisaralik Lake,

a deep and transparent lake is bordered by the snow-capped Kilbuck Mountains

Out of the two mile wide by three mile long Kisaralik Lake flows the

Kisaralik River.· The river runs along a northwesterly course, breeches

the Kilbuck's, then meanders across the Kuskokwim lowlands, and finally

enters the Kuskokwim River about 32 miles upstream of Bethel, Alaska.

The Kisaralik River is approximately 100 miles long and drains a 1,470

square mile area. It is a clearwater blue-green colored stream flowing II~ ., .. . I through a rocky bed for most of its distance. The river lies within a

I basin like area dominated by moist tundra for its first 20 miles •. The

J river then cuts a 1/2 to 2 mile wide valley 40.miles long through the I Kilbuck's. Moist tundra remains the dominate cover. The remaining I I I reaches of the river flow through the Kuskokwim lowlands that are I dominated by upland spruce-hardwood forests. Small stands of paperbirch I . I . and aspen, white spruce and cottonwood, and black spruce and alder genrally line these lower reaches. The mountains around Kisaralik Lake

· ..and the upper 20 miles of river are 4,000 feet a.s.l, while the mountains

along the next 40 river miles are generally 1,800 to 2,400 feet a.s.l. The lowlands are under 250 feet a.s.l.

·River Characteristics

Kisaralik Lake lies at an elevation of 1,500 feet a.s.l. Kisaralik

River enters the Kuskokwim River at an elevation of about 300 feet

a.s.l. giving an overall gradient of 12 feet per mile. However most of

the elevation drop occurs during the upper 45 river miles, i.e., from

the lake to just below Golden Gate ~apids. This elevation drop results

in a gradient of 22.2 feet per mile, with a gradient of 3.6 feet per

mile for the lower 55 river miles. From the lake downstream about 75

miles materials that'form the river's bed consist of rock varying from

gravel to five foot diameter boulders to unbroken volcanic stems. The

usual material consist of a mixture of gravel and fist-sized rock.

Upper Falls and Golden Gate rapids are areas of large boulders, with the

remaining (Class II) rapid areas having smaller. boulders. The riverbed along the lower is miles are characterized.by a mixture of sand an:d silt. The river is .non-glacial, flowing out of a snow fed lake. ·water

clarity is related directly to riverbed materials in the Kisaralik; in

the rocky portion water is cleat, in the sand/silt portion it is b~own

and not clear below about one inch from the surface. The river is an

average sized for the Kuskokwim drainage but a little smaller than . , average for Alaska: It has a mean annual runoff between one and two

cubic feet per second per square .mile. Its tributaries are all small

with Gold Creek, North Fork, Quicksilver Creek, and Nuktuk Creek being

the major ones.

®. . The Kisaralik River from its outlet to Gold Creek is Class I water on the International Whitewater S~ale (IWS). Normally it is 4' deep, 50' wide, and has a 3 ~ph current at the outlet. I~ runs a braided course

to Gold Creek wi.th no ·change in size. Resulting channels are often

·extremely narrow and shallow, requiring alertness. Alder and willow

brush line the streambanks. I From Gold Creek to the North Fork, it basically runs in a single channel i \ . I 75 1 wide, .2' deep, ·with a 5 mph current. Water class on the IWS is a mixture of Class I and II, with one Class III rapids just before the I North Fork. ... I I Between the North Fork and Upper Falls the river remains a mixture of I Class I and II water. It averages about 3' in depth with occassional 6' I I pools; is 100' wide,. and flows between 3-5 mph.. Upper Falls consist of I a short Class ·III r'apid followed 50 yards later by a Class VI rapid. ~ The Class VI rapid drops 10' vertically over a 20' horizonal distance. ~~,t~ i A relatively easy portage can be made around the left .or south side of /. the river. I I I Between Upper Falls and Lower Falls the river is Class II as it flows in I a single 75'-100' wide channel. The channel is usually_ 4' deep with I I occassional 10 1 pools and a current of 4 mph. River temperature (during I I the 1978 field inspection) at QuicksiLver Creek· was 42°F with the creek .

being 57°F. Lower Falls consists of small, vertical drop shelves and I it a Class III rating on the IWS.

·II • ~ The river from Lower Falls to Golden Gate is a mix of Class I and II

(IWS) water. The river's width, depth, and speed remains the same as

between Upper and Lower Falls. Golden Gate rapids rates Class III on

the IWS. Here the river narrows to 25 1 in width and 15' in depth, with

vertical 25 1 high rock walls forming the riverbanks for about 100

yards. Large boulders are scattered in the rapids. This small gorge

appears to be the result of a rock dike. I i The river is Class.~I from Golden Gate to about 25 miles above its mouth .~ ..'·~:~ ~~ : .. I It flows in a 100'-125' wide channel i (to the sand/s~l~ riverbed area). I with ·S.ome braiding in the lower reach. Water depth is generally l'-4 1 with occassional 10' pools and a curr.ent speed of 3 mph. Sweepers I . . (trees leaning into or over the river) are numerous and.constitute the

I main hazard.

~I . The last 25 river miles rate as flat water with a current speed of 2 I· mpho The river meanders through a sweeper lined 100' wide, 6 1 deep channel.

LAND AND WATER- GENERAL

·. Climate

.. The Kisaralik·Riv~r·lies within .the Continental climatic zone of Alaska ~ . which zone basicaliy includ.es all of interior. Alaska. This zone experiences

extreme summer and winter temperatures, with light precipitation and

... light surface winds • The Kisaralik River. lies in an area having mean annual precipitation

between 20 and 40 inches, also with 40 to 60 inches of annual snowfall.

There are no weather gathering stations on or close by the river.

However, the Bethel station (30 miles distance) and the NYAC station (30

miles distance) are in the same climatic zone. At Bethel: summer temp.

and 86°F,·and precipitation is 16" including 50" snow. At NYAC: summer .. temp. -49°F and 87.~F, and precipitation is 23" including 71" snow.

Due to its I\Orthern latitudes, much of Alaska has extreme periods· of

light and darkness. From about June 10 to July 4 there is continuous

sunlight in the river area; from about May l to August 15 the area

experiences 18 hours. of daylight each day. · In contrast, from December 4

to January 15 the river area experiences only 8 hours of daylight each

day. Breakupof lake and river ice occurs in early J:une, with freezeup

occurring in mid-September.

Land Use

The only known ex~sting land uses in the river are_.· subsistence use Jl

fishing for certain, probably some hunting for large game, and probably

some trapping. Connected with this use are Native (land) allotment

applications filed under the 1906 Native Allotment Act. Nineteen applications

-I lie within the area proposed for wild river. An additional seventeen I~ applications lie near the river but are within village selection lands.

There are no known active mining, farming, timper harvesting, commercial

big. game. guiding,. __ or grazing activities occurring in the river area.

Land Ownership

The Kisaralik River flows across lands under three main "ownerships":

Federal» State, and Native. Kisaralik Lake and the river downstream

about 15 miles (west boundary T3N, R60W) are within lands patented to

the State of Alaska. From there downstream about 60 miles (west boundary

TSN, R65W), the river flows through lands owned by the Federal Government

and managed by the Bureau of Land Management, Dept. of the Interior •.

The remaining 25 miles of the Kisaralik R.iver lie within .lands selected

by the Akiak Village Native Corpo:ration. As previously mentioned there

are numerous Native allotment land applications al:-ong the river area.

The_ ent.i~.:_river ar.e~- _puJ:.§A:dJL_of State p~_!:en_ted lands was withdrawn

under Section 204(e) of the Federal Land Policy and Management Act

(FLP~~) on Novembe~ 16, 1978, for a three year period •. It is part of

the proposed Yukon Delta National Wildlife Refuge.

Access

There are no existing roads, railroads or airstrips (other th~n possibly

unimproved "dirt" strips) in the .river area. There are no known summer

or winter trails in the river area with one exception. Generally

rivers in Kuskokwim drainage, particularily the Kuskokwim itself,

' 111 become actively used winter trails (mainly snowmobile) after freezeup. lei It is assumed that the lower Kisaralik River is so used by residents of

surroundingViliages and the city of Bethel. Kisaralik Lake, other lakes near the river, and select portions of the river itself are suitable to land small fixed wing aircraft on floats; skiis could probably be used in winter. Charter air service with such float equipped craft·are available in Bethel. Scheduled air·service

(Boeing 737 jet) i$ available daily during the summer between Bethel and

\ ' Anchorage.

Motorized riverboats are used on the (estimated) lower 40 miles of the river. Such craft equipped with a jet unit could use the river up to

Golden Gate rapids (estimated 60 miles upstream of river mouth).

Snowmobiles are used on the rivers after freezeup as previously noted.

Bethel residents, and perhaps residents of other villages, also drive four-wheel vehicles (auto's, pick-ups) on the Kuskokwim when its frozen. ,.,... - Winter access to the river area is possibl~· b'y skiis, or dog sled, although "'-- __ ., _____ -·· ------harsh weather conditions, distances, and use ~f.· other vehicles make it unlikely to occur frequently. Summer foot access to the river area is

~xtremely difficult due to wet marshy conditions and distances.

Water

•. The Kisaralik River is a clearwater stream with ex'cellent water clariety . for its upper 75 miles, its lower 25 miles are brown in color and silt laden due to the riverbed materials. The river carries a suspended sediment concentration of less than 100 milligrams per liter. The average dissolved solids content of surface waters in the Kuskokwim drainage is around 100 milligramS per liter in summer and maybe higher than that in winter. All rivers in the drainage have water of the calcium bicarbonate type. Good quality water, according to the Public

~ Health Service (1962) Drinking Water Standards, contains less than 500

.milligrams per liter of total dissolved solids. Water from the upper 75

miles of the Kisaralik River and the lake can be readily used for

drinking by river travelers without chemical treatment or using a

settling procedure.

There are no dams, channel improvements or diversions along the river.

A dam, to be located at Golden Gate rapids, has been proposed by the

Alaska Power Administration. It is to provide electrical power for the

lower Kuskokwim area. No formal land withdrawal has been made covering

this potenti?l site •.

I The river is navigable by floatboats for its entire length except when

{ . .. : : : the river is frozen. Pr~bably "average" (up to 25 ') s·ized motorized ·b···~ ~" ! . riverboats can navigate the-river- upst-ream to Golden Gate rapids. · Such-----­ I· craft are presently in use on the lower 25 nd:J es;. ~f':" river.:·-· ·There is no

evidence o~ histori~ or present co~ercial use of the river. Under the

Alaska Statehood Act, the State owns the riverbottom of all navigab:fe

streams and rivers. State and Federal land managing agencies are naw in

judicial arbitration over the definition of what constitutes a navigable

stream.·

I

'~ .. "k RESOURCES ~3Y Soils and Vegetation

The Kuskokwim River drainage in general is characterized by poorly

drained soils that are often covered with a thick peat mat. The mountainous

area from Kisaralik Lake to about Golden Gate rapids is generally \ .

underlain by isolated masses of permafrost. The following lowland area

to within about 15 river miles above the Kuskokwim River is generally

underlain by numerous isolated masses of permafrost. The area along the

lower 15 river miles is generally underlain by moderately thick to thin

permafrost.

Soils in the area around the upper l/4 of the river have been influenced

by earlier glacial activities. Glacial terraces are frequent. The

effects of glacial scouring~ leveling, and desposition of course till

and outwash deposits are easily visible. The soils in the area around

the second ~/4 of the river are more susceptible to surface damage than

most other sections of the river, with. the exclusion of certain high

water .content permafrost areas. The .fine textured soils derived from

shales, combined with steep, uniform~ relatively unprotected s.lopes, foretell·of erosion. problemS following disturbance. The soils are relatively fertile~ due to the shale parent materials and the primary

minerals from tectonic activities, but the steep slopes and fine textures

will make rev~getation more difficult than on other portions of the

river. The watershed is in a stable condition. The soils in the area

around the third 1/4 of the river are very acid (ph range of 3.5 to ' 5.5). Dep~h to permafrost ranges from 15 inches to 30 inches. These

areas, especially the gently rolling areas underlain by permafrost, are

·highly susceptible to damage by surface traffic. Thermal erosion of the

permafros~ will lead to soil erosion in many cases. The area .around the

lower 1/4 of the river has uniformly deep deposits of fine textured

glacial silt. Gravel and coarse textured materials are difficult to

find. Gravel and sandbars are infrequent. High quality campsites are

difficult to locate. These soils, due to the high frequency of permafrost,

are susceptible to erosion following disturbance. Since the majority of

the terrain is level, disturbed sediment will not be carried into the

stream in most cases. The soils are very acid (pH 3.5 to 5.5), indica·ting

revegetation problems. The soils in the Kisaralik floodplain are exceptions . to this case. The floodplain is consistently less acid (pH 5.0 to 6.5)

from the upper reaches (Kisaralik Lake) through this section (Ken

Bracken, Soil Scientist~;:· BLM, Aug. 1976 field inspection).

The Kisaralik River flows through three major vegetative communities

beginning with moist tundra along the upper and mountainous reaches.

Upland spruce~hardwood forest lines the river from Spein.Mountain area

to within about 10 miles above the Kuskokwim River. The last 10 river

miles flow through we·t tundra vegetation. Kisaralik Lake is dominated

by Alpine tundra on three sides, with moist tundra dominate on the

fourth or river sideo

Herbs, grasses, sedges, and a variety of low shrubs are characteristic

of the moist tundra communities. A mat of mosses and lichens underlie !'' • the above plants. Cotton gass is easily found in depressions. Wildflowers are abundant.

The upland spruce-hardwood forest is characterized by white spruce with

birch or aspen found on south facing slopes and black spruce on north

facing slope and poorly drained flat areas. Spongy moss and low brush

make up the understory on the cool moist slopes. Grasses make up the

understory on dry slopes~ and willow, alder, and dwarf birch being the

understory in the high open forests.

Wet tundra along the lower river is characterized by grasses and sedges

rooted in mosses and lichens. Dwarf shrubs grow on slightly raised

areas. Aquatic plants -- horsetails, pondweed, and bur reed grow in

places with standing water.

The alpine -tundra community-.. is characterized __ by lichens, blueberry, and

crowberry. Lichens, lupine, aster, and cinquefoil,pioneer exposed

windswept places. Alpine azalea, ar.ctic willow, and mountain avens grow

in the protected places.

The lands around the river are considered suitable for use as grazing

lands for reindeer or caribou (Alaska Regional Profiles:SW Region,

FSLUPC). Some of' the. upland spruce-hardwood fores-ted land along the

river could be considered commer.cial forest lands. However, the distance

to a 11 lar·ge" market i.e. Bethel has prohibited commercial use of the

timber. The forested area can be of value for private landowners along

the river and residents of Akiak for use in cabin building and for

firewoodo ·' Geological and Mineral

The river flows westerly out of the Kuskokwim Mountains across the

Kilbuck·Mountains and into the Kuskokwim Ri~er.flood plain._.2rom_Kisaralik

Lake to the Kilbuck Mountains the meandering river crosses a glacial

moraine and glacial drift deposits. Through the Kilbucks the river is

cutting and more erosional with rapids, rifts and pools. The mountains

are rounded ridges with steep slopes and sharp bluffs near the streams

and the river. Leaving the mountains the character of the river changes

again becoming a cut and fill outwash deposit that is gradually being

covered by an ever thickening layer of silt. The gravel size decreases

as the river travels from the mountains and the silts increase in depth

with the river channel becoming more incised in the old meandering

channel. The Kuskokwim Mountains are Early Cretaceous with older rocks

which are expressed in sequence of minor folds with. a geosynclinal

expression found in the area of the Kisaralik Lake.

Kisaralik.Lake is nestled in·a·glaciated basin just below the divide and

west of the Milk Creek Fault. Evidence of glaciation is generally

expressed by the "U" shaped valley and .the terminal moraine which forms

the lake and high ground near the lake's outlet and the start of the

river. Moa~ of the sediment and gravel on the beach and flats near the

lake are reworked ~nd well sorted glacial till. This sorting is a

direct result of the wave action from the lake.

As the river flows to the west through the moraine it enters an area of . I broad glacial drift plains that are cut by the present day flood plain alluvium. Remnants of old moraiRes can be seen at different locations

along the river to a point just above the Upper Falls. The. peaks and ridg~~ ~~e of sedimentary origin with dikes and sills intruding them.

The intrusions range widely in size, from four inches to many feet, and color, from reds and greens to grays and browns. A few distinct light blue pebbles and cobbles were found along the beach and river. Many cirques and hanging valleys can be seen in the upper one third of the river. Near the confluence of Gola Creek the glacial till has a few kettle lakes left presumably during the last retreat of the glacier.

Below the confluence of the North Fork Creek is the first exposure of rock in place along the river. A granitic dike has cut the exposed shales (slightly metamorphosed) making them a little more resistent to abrasion and erosiono The lateral exposure of the dikes is approximately

30 feet into the river along the strike of the sedimentary formations.

From this fi!st e~osure of rock at the waters edge, the left limit has many exposures of steeply dipping shale and sandstone that strike in a northeasterly direction. Some of the bluffs are extremely high and provide good nesting habitat. Where the river cuts next to the bluff and at right angles to the strike of the rocks, small rapids are formed.

As change in the general.. corridor of the river takes place at the Uppe~ Falls.~ glacial outwash plains are faded out into glacial fluvial and reworked glacial debris deposited on the benches above the river. The rocks become more competent and resistant to the flow of water. Bard sections of siltstone and sandstone form low flat rapids. Throughout this section of the river, as it cuts across the Kilbuck Mountains, many

Qf the resistant sedimentary rocks and some of the intrusive rock form

spectacular columns, pinnacles and rugged bluffs. Uniform sedimentary

units form prominent evenly sloped ridges of talus that are only broken

by the cutting action of the many streams and creeks. The general

structure trend remains northeast-southwest throughout the Kilbuck

Mountains with steeply dipping beds. While changing direction rapidly

the dip angle (7Q-90 degrees) remains fairly uniform. Most of these

changes took place across fault structures or very sharp folds that have

some variance in the dip angle.

Nearing the west edge of the Kilbucks the river bends around the Greenstone

Ridge and crosses the Golden Gate Fault. The Greenstone Ridge is composed

of a green amphible schist and is suggested by USGS (I-285) to be older

than the surrounding rocks of the Gemuk groups. A short distance below

the falls the general character of the tiver changes to that of a outwash

deposit.

For a few miles below Golden Gate rapids the spreading is limited and

the river gradient is mantai.ned, however. the active channel is somewhat

below an older much broader channel that is now covered with good stands

of timber. Below .Nuk.luk Creek the river changes to a braided. cut and

fill type of deposition is apparent. This outwash plain spreads as it leaves the hills and follows the general trend of the river. For a

short distance above Nukluk Creek and a few miles below Golden Gate

rapids are the only tertiary volcanics exposed along the river. The

rocks are exposed in the bank below a thick layer of silt that displays ~~~~------~------~------~------

a very striking appearance. The yellow orange is very apparent even to

the untrained eye as a change in rock type.

Along the right limit above the volcanics, covered silt which is prevantly

over most of the Kuskokwim Delta, is first seen. A fairly large gravel

outwash plain underlays the silt to the west and grades down in size to

a pea size gravel near the lower 10 river miles. The river becomes more

channeled as the size is reduced and the thickness of the silt increases

as the channel deepen~. Silts deposited in this part of the river do

not appear to be a deposition of the Kisaralik River but more likely

from the Kuskokwim River. In flat terrain any type of hill stands out.

•The more prominent hills in the lower front range of Kilbtick Mountains

are volcanic in origin with the exception of a ·few tertiary albite

rhyolite ridges.·

In the same general area of the Kilbuck Mountains to the north and south

of the Kisaralik River, mining has taken place in the past.and is still

going on today. Records of the river area reflect that the only past

mining activity"was near the Golden Gate rapids. Claims were staked for

copper, however, no evidence of annual assessment or any other activity

was found in the area. In a pan sample taken from Quicksilver Creek

gold was found in anomalous quanities. It warrants further study • .. Generally speaking the area.of the river that cuts the mountains has

good possibilities of producing gold,· cinnabar, and .scheelite, USGS I-

285. The existing reports by USGS authors are old, but are still

relevant and correlate well with what was found in the field. Sand and

gravel are of extremely high value in all of the lower Kuskokwim River ..

area, however most of the cost (value) is for transportation. The lower

reaches of the Kisaralik River cross a large sand and gravel deposit

that is not used due to transporation difficulty. (Charles Drummond,

Geologist, BLM, Aug.'l976 field inspection).

Fish and Wildlife

Fish

The Kisaralik River and tributaries are known to support runs of all

species of pacific salmon except red salmon. Red salmon may also exist

in limited numbers but their presence has not yet been positively documented. I I Chum salmon are the most abundant. There are also substantial populations

' of rainbow trout and Dolly Varden. A list of all fish species known to p' be present in the river or adjacent lakes and sloughs· follows:

King salmon, Oncorhynchus tshaw)rtscha

Chum salmon,·Oncorhynchus keta

Pink salmon, Oncorhynchus.gorbuscha

Silver salmon, Onchorynchus kisutch Dolly Varden, Slavelinus. malma Arctic grayling, Th~llus arcticus

Lake trout, Salvelinus namaycush

Rainbow trout,. Salmo gairdneri

Sheefish, Stenodus leucichthxs

Northern pik~, Esox lucius

Alaska blackfish, Dallia pectoralis I • ,

Burbot, Lota lota

Round whitefish, Prosopium cylindraceum

Humpback whitefish,- Coregonus pidschian

Broad whitefish, Coregonus nasus

Least cisco, Coregonus sardinella

Arctic cisco, Coregonus autumnalis

Slimy scuplin, Cottus cognatus

Ninespine stickleback, Pungitius pungitius

Pond smelt, Hypomesus olidus

Boreal smelt, Osmerus eperlanus

The Dolly Varden populations are all ·believed to be resident, with no

anadromous populations known in the Kuskokwim River drainage upstream

from the •. Sheefish are occasional summer feeding residents of

the very lower meandering portions of the river but spawn elsewhere in

river portions for spring spawning. Again, this lower meandering river.

section and/or adjacent sloughs are utilized by northern pike, nine-

spine stickleback~ Alaskan blackfish, and burbot.

The Kuskokwim River drai~ge is one of the largest in the state, second

· only to the Yukon ~iver in· size artd length. Though heavily laden with

silt, many of its major tributaries, such as the Kisaralik River, are

cleanvater streams and support a regionally significant commercial

salmon fishery •. Commercial fishing is allowed in. the main stem Kuskokwim

River. : .. "' I- I • Commercial salmon fishing in the KuskokYim region dates back to 1913 or -I earlier. The fishery prior to 1961 was often poorly documented, sporadic [~-).··.·····.':.. -.· in-nature, _and. gener·ally small. Since 1961,. the commercial salmon

fishery has expanded considerably in terms of harvest, effort, and

efficiency of the fishing fleet. The average annual salmon harvest for

the entire •Kuskokwim River fishery from 1960-1974 is approximately

163~000 fish which represents less than 1 percent of the total statewide

salmon catch for the same period. Since 1960, silver salmon have

accounted for 35 percent of the Kuskokwim region salmon harvest, followed

by chum (32 percent), king (22 percent), pink (7 percent), and red (4

percent) salmon. The fishery, however, has-been rapidly expanding

during recent years, as evidenced by the 197~ commercial catch of 491,998

salmon. I ( . . In addition to _salmon, commercial catches of wl;litefish and sheefish have 0 been recorded by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game since 1967. The

average annual commercial ca~ch from 1967 - 1974 was approximately 6,775

whitefish and 210 sheefish, respectively&

Although ·the annual commercial harvest in the entire Kuskokwim River

fishery is small ip comparison to those in other areas of the state,

commercial fisheries are extremely. important to local economies. Th_e

average annual value to salmon fishermen 1964-1974 was $361,000. In

recent years, increased harvests _and higher prices have resulted in

annual values to the Kuskokwim River commercial fisherman of over one

I million dollars. I ·~ The Kuskokwim River salmon subsistence fishery remains the largest and ·~

most intense of its kind in the state. King and chum salmon are the two

'_..).: most important species taken for subsistence purposes. Coho salmon are ' :··:- not quite so heavily utilized due to the lateness of the run when most

residents are returning to their villages. In addition, rainy weather

during this fall period prevents proper drying of the catch. Besides

salmon, nearly all other species of fish present are utilized for subsistence.

Whitefish, northern pike, burbot, and herring represent the majority of

species harvested and it is estimated that a~proximately 75 - 85 percent

of this catch is utilized for human consumption.

King and silver salmon sport fishing is seasonally important as is the

Dolly Varden sport fishery, but the greatest sport fishing attraction of

the drainage is its rainbow trout. Bethel and other village res·idents

commonly travel each summer by riverb'oat past the lower meandering

section of the river into the prime rainbow trout habitat which lies

above. Outboards with propellers are most commonly used.

Floatplanes, however, commonly carry people into Kisaralik Lake for

hunting and fishing purposes. Hunting may be the principal use in these

instances. A second up river area, used by floatplanes to some extent,

lies at the Upper Falls. A small lake, large enough to accommodate

small floatplanes, is-situated within 1 1/2 miles of the falls and it is

common practice for recreationists to land there, and then hike down to

the falls for sport fishing purposes. There are no detailed sport

fishing use estimates available for the Kisaralik River drainage. ~j~------~~------

Wildlife

,.

·· .. ···. ./ '<.J.ir Large mammals present in the river area include black bear, grizzly

bear, Yolves, Yolverine, and moose. The moose population is on the

increase since the moose suffered heavy mortality during the extreme

winters of 1970-71 and 1971-72. Small furbearing mammals present include

red and Arctic fox, otter, mink, marten, short tailed Yeasel, lynx,

beaver, muskrat, and snowshoe and Arctic hares.

Although not in large numbers, waterfowl species present in the Kisaralik

River area include greater scaup, pintail, old squaw, American widgeon,

green winged teal, . common scoter, harlequin, Canada goose, whistling

swan, and white fronted geese. Sandhill cranes are also present in the

lower river area. Bald eagles and rough-legged hawks inhabit the ·. mountainous area along the Kisaralik River. Other birds in the river

area include ptarmigan, yellowlegs, arctic terns, common loon and gulls.

Historical and Cultural

Little is known of the prehistory of the entire Kuskokwim River area and

its recorded history is also brief. The Russians tried to penetrate the

area from 1818. · ;r.n the early 1840 '.s a small amount of Russian control

was attained. Lt. Zagoskin explored the region up to the mouth of the.

Takotna River (near present day McGrath). Howev~r Russian influence

through trade and proselytism did not have a major impact.· They established

trading posts in 1832 at the mouth of the and in 1833 at

the mouth of the KYik River. Both Yere shortly abandoned. ...

Russian influence is reflected primarily in the reconcentration of

aboriginal people around centers which provided opportunities for trade

and missionary services. Purchase of Alaska by the United States in

1867 had little effect on the area. American traders replaced the

Russian traders and the Moravian Church principally assumed the role of

the Russian church. The terrain. sparse population, and little furs

discouraged the American interest as it had the Russian interest in the

general area. Alaska Commercial Company had a post at the Native

village of Mumtrekhlogamute, now Bethel~ The area was visited by·~issionaries

and traders periodically. Gold was discovered in 1907 in the upper

reaches of tbe Kuskokwim River to the north and east of the Kisaralik.

River. The Kuskokwim River became a major trade artery between the gold

fields and Bethel. By 1911 the entire drainage was traversed by prospectors,

but the Kuskokwim gold boom was already declining. Since then gold

mining activity has ri:sen and fallen with the price of gold •. ·

Historically. as well as today, the Kuskokwim River area has been populated

by several territorial and linguistic groupings of the Yupik 's

who practiced a variation of subsistence living. However.· the area has

moderate biological carrying capacity, making survival of the ab~riginal

groups chronically,difticult. Much of the population has, in recent

years. settled in Bethel. This site of an Eskimo village and an Alaska

Commercial Company trading post, was selected in 1884 by Moravian missionaries

as the site for a new mission and was named Bethel by these missionaries

(above from Alaska Regional Profiles- SW Region- FSLUPC)~ Scenery and Recreation

·scenery

The Kisaralik River, from and including the lake to the vicinity of

Spein Mountain, offers diverse and highly pleasing scenery. Snow-capped

mountains, narrow and deep valleys, small canyons, ch~nging vegetation ,

lakes, and exposed rock outcroppings and bluffs create this scenery

along with the river's own changing character •

. Kisaralik Lake is a deep, transparent, cleanwater lake bordered by

towering mountains that are snow-capped year around. · From the lake many

glacial cirque basins and moraine deposits are readily visible. Horned

i peaks and aretes, the knife edged ridges carved out between cirque basins, can be found in the area. Washed gravels backed by hummocked

~ tundra cover the lakeshore.

From the lake to Upper Falls the river passes through a broad glacial

drift plains. Glacial terraces are seen frequently. Evidence of glacial

scouring and outwash deposits are visible. Steeply dipping shale and

sandstop.e outcroppings have. produced several bluffs seen from the river.

Dense willow and alder brush also line the river. Several lakes lie . close to the river in th:i,.s section. They are·a.part of any view when

hiking along nearby ridges.

Between Upper Falls and Golden Gate the river flows through a narrow . iii "canyon" area as it breaches the Kilbuck Mountains. Jagged rock topped ridges and mountains rise 2~000' above the river. The topography has been influenced by glacial and tectonic action with contorted beds of shale visible. Many resistant sedimentary rocks and some intrusive rocks form columns, pinnicals, and rugged bluffs. The vegetation changes here with tundra on the upper mountain slopes and alder brush dominating the mid and lower slopes. Cottonwood trees stand on well drained alluvial sites near the riverbanks. White and black spruce begin to appear. The tributary streams to the Kisaralik River flow out of the mountains through twisted, narrow valleys, often lined with exposed rock bluffs and cliffs.

Low foothills backed by Little Crow Hills, Spein Mountain, and Shining

Dome (mountain) provide the main visual attraction along the river between Golden Gate and Spein Mountain. Floodplain vegetation is dominated by paper birch, aspen, white spruce, arid cottonwood. Moist tundra dominates the area beyond. Some rock outcroppings exposed to the river traveler's view add contrast to the scenery.

From Spein Mountain to the Kuskokwim River the Kisaralik meanders first through a lowland spruce-hardwood forest lining the river that is banked by moist tundra. It then meanders through a wet tundra dominated landscape.

The riverbanks in the lower 20±, miles rise 20' above the water, which along with the vegetation, effectively block any views for the river traveler. - This·~tt.il:!e:.::t.iV'.er. area· hasJ~ow scenic value. -;, -Dr-~------~------~------

.... : I> f llsaraJ.ik Lake and Kisaralik River lie in a wilderness environment that I "' i{~ .portrays little evidence of man's presence. Some cabins along with appurtenant items are visible along the lower river.

Recreation

Recreational opportunities of the Kisaralik River and surrounding area·

are very good for several activities. Water, almost always moving at a

comfortable speed (3-4 mph) and long stretches of exciting, yet readily

navigable rapids offer an ou~standing float for kayakers and rafters.

Most rapids are Class II, but. three short Class III rapids and one Class

VI (a low falls) provide added attractions for floatboaters (the falls

are easily portaged). As previously noted the lower river can be navigated

by motorized riverboat upstream probably to Golden Gate rapids (may need

a jet unit for the upper part). The river can be successfully floated

by kayak and raft at all normal water levels include "normal" low ~ater

in September. The best "put-in" for a float trip would be by small

fixed wing float plane from :Bethel to Kisaral~k Lake. The best "take-

out" would be by the same type airplane in the lower river. Some "take-

outsn are possible along the lower, mid reaches of the river on gravelbars

and in the river depending upon seasonal conditions of these sites.

! ·. Both day hiking and relatively short trip backpacking opportunities are

excellent in the upper half of the river area and around Kisaralik Lake.

Side valley's, ·tributary drainages, nearby ridges, and the Kilbuck

Mountains often provide tundra and rock surfaces that a~e easily tread by beginning hikers. Steeper areas, often requiring crossing dense

alder stands and some scrambling, offer opportunities for the more

vigerous. experience hiker. Excellent views of surrounding ridges, mountains, lakes, and the river are a part of tbe hikers reward.

The Kisaralik River offers excellent sport fishing prospects. Rainbow

trout are an important attraction, with king and silver salmon, Dolly

Varden, and in Kisaralik Lake - lake trout also being sought after

species. The river is a summer playground for some Bethel and nearby village residents, who travel by motorized riverboat into the lower one-

third of the river to sport fish.

Existing recreation use is low. Local residents sport fish in the lower river as noted.. . Numbers of local residents who recreate in the river are unknown but it can be assumed that many of the villages of Akiak

{pop. 211 in 1974) use the river several times each summer. It can be assumed that some of Bethel's 1725 residents also recreate at least once each summer {probably sport fish) in the lower river. We estimate that two or three groups of four persons each fly-in to fish Kisaralik Lake . each year. We estimate three or four groups of four to eight people float the Kisaralik each season.

The only serious limitations to recreation use of the river area are distance and expense of access. The short summer season of late June through early September is another limitation, however it is common one throughout Alaska. .. . FINDINGS - CONCLUSIONS - RECOMMENDATIONS

Findings

The river is located in a wilderness environment.

. . The river is in a natural free-flowing condition, its water being of

good quality and clarity and of sufficient volume during normal years

for water oriented recreation.

The river is unpolluted, free of impoundments, and generally accessible

by air and motorized riverboat.

Scenic values of the river area are outstanding. A variety of landforms

. and vegetation combine to create a changing and pleasing landscape • 0 -

The river area also offers outstanding recreational opportunities. The

upper reaches of the river offer whitewater for the experienced floatboater.

Day hiking and backpacking opportunities are very good in the upper

river area. Sport fishing opportunities for trout and salmon are also

very good.

Kisaralik Lake and river support an outstanding sport fishery. Rainbow

trout, king and silver salmon, Dolly Varden, and lake trout are the main

species caught. ,. .. . Kisaralik Lake and the upper 15+ miles of the river (to west boundary of .-L C) T3N, R60W) lie within the lands patented to the State of Alaska.

A potential conflict with designation of the river as part of the national

system is the proposal to construct a hydroelectric dam in the vicinity

of Golden Gate rapids.

Conclusions

The Kisaralilt River from and including Kisaralik Lake to the west

boundary of TSN, R65W meets the criteria established by the Wild and

Scenic Rivers Act for inclusion in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers

System (NW&SRS) as a "wild river area". Outstanding values associated

with the river area are: recreation, scenery, and fishery.

A '\rild river area must be free _of dams, generally inaccessible, primative,

and the river unpolluted.•• This generally means that a person may use an

airplane as means of access to the area, use a motorboat on the river

where traditionally used, sport hunt, fish, trap, and pursue subsistence

activities, all in the "wild river area." It also means that a road can

be built leading to the river if inconspicuous, but one (a road) cannot

parallel within a 1/4 mile of the river. No mining is allowed within

1/4 mile of the riverbanks except for the mining of valid existing

claims. It also means that generally none of man's structures are to be

built in the area.

a , If , .:. l li • 'i.. .·

other Alaskan rivers currently proposed for inclusion in the National

Wild & Scenic Rivers System. The is the closest of such

rivers in SW Alaska. The Kanektok differs in that it does not offer the

whitewater boating opportunities as does the Kisaralik.

Recommendations

It is recommended:

- that the Kisaralik. River from the west boundary of T3N, R60W to

the west boundary of.TSN R65W be included in the National Wild and

Scenic Rivers System as a "wild river area".

. 0 -. that a four mile wide corridor be reserved along the river from which the exact boundaries of the National River area are to be determined

by the management agency.

- that the proposed "wild river area" be managed by the adjacent

land manager.

- that the State of Alaska be encourage and aided in designating

Kisaralik Lake and Kisaralik River from the lake to the west boundary of

T3N, R60W, as a "wild river area" and placing them in the National Wild .. and Scenic Rivers System •

/