Edition 26 0 June 2016

St. Zaum

Celebrating International Children’s Day Saturday, 4 June 2016, Gradski Trgovski Centar (GTC)

In cooperation with:

Maroon: Pantone 222c CMYK (%) C0 - M100 - Y15 - K60

Sponsored by:

Supported by our friends: Painters: Luan Zenku Osman Demiri Safet Spahiu, Reshat Ameti Xhezair Rexhepi. Zaneta Gelevska Veljanoska Other contributers: Angela Berreri Jasmina Bosevska Celebrating International Children’s Day Saturday, 4 June 2016, Gradski Trgovski Centar (GTC)

Opening Ceremony 2016 DMWC International Charity Bazaar 11:00 Mrs. Emilija Miladinova Avramcheva, DMWC Mr. Koce Trajanoski, Mayor of Skopje H. E. Mr. Charles Edmund Garrett, the Ambassador of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland to the Republic of . and Honorary President of 2016 DMWC International Charity Bazaar

Embassies will promote and sell products from their countries: • Embassy of the Republic of Albania • British Embassy • Embassy of the Republic of • Embassy of the People’s Republic of China • Embassy of the Republic of France • Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Iran • Embassy of the Republic of Italy • Embassy of Montenegro • Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands • Embassy of the State of Qatar • Embassy of the Republic of Serbia • Embassy of the Slovak Republic • Embassy of the Republic of Slovenia • Embassy of the Kingdom of Spain • Embassy of the Republic of Turkey • Embassy of the United States of America • European Union – Delegation of the European Union

International organisations:

• Organization for Security and Co-operation in Europe – OSCE Mission to Skopje • United Nations Children’s Fund – UNICEF • International Monetary Fund– IMF

11:30-13:00 Performances by schoolchildren: American School of Macedonia, British Children’s Academy, Cvetan Dimov Performing Arts Society, Ecole Francaise Internationale de Skopje, Kindermusik at Prima Danza, NOVA School, QSI International School of Skopje, Prima Danza, Shuto Orizari Centre for Street Children, Sumnal NGO. 14:00 Lottery draw 15:00 Recognition of participants and sponsors 16:00 Closing of the Bazaar

Join us for these exciting activities and help support the Centre for Street Children in Shuto Orizari COME ONE, COME ALL!!! 6 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk www.dmwc.org.mk

In this issue: Published by

Sacred Gem “Dobredojde” Macedonia Welcome Centre As a UNESCO protected Ul. Alzirska bb cultural and natural site, UZ Vlado Tasevski Lake Ohrid has a lot to offer tourists. p.14 1000 Skopje Republic of Macedonia The Eagle’s [email protected] Nest of Old Architecture Editor-in-Chief Emilija Miladinova Avramcheva On the road to [email protected] Debar there is an unforgettable view of the village of Jance. Contributors p.17 Robert Alagjozovski The Mosque [email protected] Nadica Janeva of the Great [email protected] Conqueror Zaneta Gelevska-Veljanovska Debar is a town with rich [email protected] history and magnificent Lyubov Gurjeva nature. p.20 [email protected] Jasmina A. Casule The Soft Hearted graphic design Kidnappers [email protected]

In today’s insecure and ISSN 1857- 9213 hostilities-thorn world little is known of the first modern hostage crisisthat occurred in Macedonia in the beginning of the twentieth century.p.28

Macedonia Welcome Centre Magazine is a non-profit publication that is financed by advertising and donations. Donations can be remitted to our bank account: NGO: “Dobredojde” Macedonia Welcome Centre, Skopje Bank Account: 200002723446003 ; Bank: Stopanska Banka ; VAT number: EDB 4058009503130 We welcome donations of any amount. Thank you for your support! Yours Gratefully, Macedonia Welcome Centre Magazine Editorial Board Recommendations DMWC Recommends In this issue we introduce a new section: a yellow-pages-type directory of services which we can recommend to our readers. Please feel free to share your experiences and opinions with us via the web site http// www.dmwc.org.mk/contact. We will be in touch with the providers of all the published ads and will share your feedback with them.

www.clubrestaurant.mk rezervacii na tel +389(0)70227701; +389(0) 71386386 +389(0)23256665 fb:Light jazz club Restaurant Teodosij Gologanov 49 Skopje e-mail : [email protected]

8 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Editorial Colorful Macedonia oday the expression is believed to have been born with the arrival “colorful Macedonia” of the famous protestant missionary from Tis synonymous America, Miss Stone. You can read about Miss with the struggle for Sonte’s misadventure in the article about “Kind democracy, justice, rule of Kidnappers” in this issue. The older residents law and media freedom. of Kolesino, when asked about the different “No justice, no peace!” religious denominations, would usually count slogan of the popular the village churches and the families attending protests which have the ceremonies. The great variety of believers been named “colorful in this village has given rise to the saying revolution” means that „Whatever mother had lost her child, she will there will be no peace in find him/her in Kolesino.“ by Emilija Miladinova the country until there There is no end to colours and combinations Avramcheva is justice. For the their of colours in Macedonia. Go no further than President of will for justice citizens the nearest open market to experience our “Dobredojde” Macedonia of Macedonia, deserve excellent fruits and vegetables this summer. to live in a democratic And if in the mood, you can prepare your own Welcome Centre and pluralistic, colourful, mixed Macedonian salad. What you are going Macedonia. to buy for it, will depend on your taste and The mixing of colours has deep roots in perhaps also on your mother tongue. Maybe Macedonian history and culture, and very it will be a macedonia di frutta or a macedoine interesting local connotations. As many of des legumes.For those who still haven’t visited you know, there is a famous Colorful Mosque the Colorful Mosque in Tetovo (Sarena Dzamija of Tetovo, also known as Decorated Mosque or Xhamia e Pashës) or Kolesino village I truly and Pasha’s Mosque. Situated on the Pena recommend these destinations,for those who river, it is one of the most treasured icons of will have a busy summer I recommend at least Macedonia’s muslim heritage. Its artwork was to have a Macedonian salad. produced by local artist whose skills have MWC Magazine will continue to research been acquired in major European centers like into the colorful traditions of Macedonia and Padua, Florence and Vienna, as well as in bring them to our readers. At the same time, eastern centers of culture and civilizationsuch DMWC will continue to provide a platform to all as Istanbul, Cairo and Bagdad.This exquisite members of the expat community for sharing architectural monument was financed by two their cultures and traditions and enriching sisters, Hurshide and Mensure and built in their experience of staying in Macedonia. I early medieval Istanbul style in 1438 to be would like to use this opportunity to thank reconstructed by Abdurrahman Pasha in 1833. everybody who has generously shared their In the south-eastern part of Macedonia in the stories and cultures with us.My special thanks foothills of the picturesque Belasica mountain go to our Honorary President of 2016 DMWC near Stumica there is a village of Kolesino International Charity Bazaar H.E. Mr. Charles famous for its waterfalls and rich and colorful Garret and his spouse Mrs. Veronique Garrett, religious scene. Imagine a community of 400 for their selfless dedication and all their efforts households and 1,300 residents including in organizing the bazaar. DMWC relies on members of the Orthodox, Catholic and friends like them for successfully carrying out Protestant Churches. And the Protestants are its charitable mission. further divided into adherents of Evangelical- I look forward to seeing you all at 2016 Methodist Church, Adventist Church, Church DMWC International Charity Bazaar on the 4th of Jehovah‘s Witnesses, Baptists and of June and at DMWC Art and Crafts Bazaar on Pentecostals. When did this unique religious the 25th of June and wish you a nice summer richness come into being? The first residents holiday! are believed to have been Orthodox Christians. The Evangelical - Methodist Church in Kolesino

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 9 Editorial Shift to Participation t the peak of sector has contributed to this trend as the current well, objecting to the working conditions, Asocio-political the tax burden, the coefficient lists, and crisis the conversation raising the question of creative autonomy. aboutcertain issues Political solution to the crisis would of which span the cultural course bring about greater satisfaction and political realms and put an end to many of the forms is unavoidable. The of activism. It is natural that the developments are still representational democracy should regain as uncertain as the its space. But I think that the resolution ‘greenhouse effect’ of the crisis should not bring about an by Robert weather. Yet, I would acquiescence of the civil society. I have Alagjozovski like to think of the had the opportunity to hear opinions cultural manager, current crisis and coming from such developed democracies literary critic its overall symbolic as Sweden and Norway. Their insight was meaning in the terms that their societies are always awaken, inspired by an old Chinese saying: every always alerted to react to any crack in the crisis is an opportunity for change. I do political business as usual. Being a fragile believe that regardless of the particular democracy, I believe that Macedonian political careers and behaviour of the society should never fall into hibernation major blocks, the crisis brought to again. Critical thinking should be cultivated the fore many issues that demand a in formal education and strongly supported radical transformation, and, at the same in civil society. Public debates should be time,created perfect conditions for these encouraged on all levels of education and transformations to happen. I do believe should become mandatory for any political that, in the end, the country will push decision concerning development, public itself into developments that would make spending and the urban and cultural it more democratic, and bring us closer planning. to Europe and to the family of advanced In the cultural field, we must also bring societies. into focus the issue of participation. I One achievement which is already visible welcome the currentpan-European policy is the high level of civic participation. interest in audience development. Not There is an unprecedented rise of the only does it improve the sustainability of citizens’ interests in issues affecting their institutions and makes art more accessible, wellbeing, but also in the way affairs but alsomakes the process of artistic of government and politics are carried creation more accountable and better out. We see the re-emergence of public accepted. Citizens should participate in debate in the media. It is true that many artistic and cultural practices more directly. strategic documents have been brought They should experience different art and into the public eye, but citizens, trade culture forms and formats with more unions, and umbrella associations did not self-confidence and competence than hesitate to raise their voice to demand passive, however educated, consumers. more publicity, more responsiveness, and The question of participation is inherently better provisions in the different laws, linked with the issue of more direct plans, strategies, rules etc. The cultural democracy.

10 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Temov Brewery is The First Microbrewery in Macedonia. We have started production of a veraity of beer since 2015, aldough the Pab style restaurant, Temov Old Town Brewery exists since 2009. Visitors can enjoy around 9 di erent craft beers, as well as some traditional and pub style food. The resataurant is open every day from 9 am, and there is live rock music every night.

You can nd us at: str. Samoilova, next to the church St. Spas, just above the Old Fort Kale www.temovbeer.com reserv: 0038976462371 , 0038976462374 , [email protected]

PIVOLEND - Gourmet weekend with Beer, is a Festival organized by Temov company. The festival will be held for the ninth time, this year (2016) from 31st of August till 4 th of September. Traditionaly, the festival takes place at the Old Fort Kale. Its major goal is enrichment of the festival life in the city as well as the region with presentation of beer production in our country, and some imported beer. The festival also has a rich musical program , and tends to present both local and Balkan musicians. www.pivolend.com.mkwww.dmwc.org.mk , pivolend • @gmail.comJune 2016 11 2016 DMWC International Charity Bazar Message of the Honorary president of DMWC

Dear friends of international community and the citizens the „Dobrodojde of the country. Symbolically, we make our - Macedonia small world a better place for living for us all. Welcome Center“ The MWC Magazine, published for six in Skopje, years already, helps us a lot in fulfilling It’s been a these noble goals. That’s why the Magazine third time that I is widely accepted, particularly within the have a privilege diplomatic community, foreign students in to address you the international elementary schools, NGOs, in my capacity business community and wherever exposed as the honorary to those who visit the country from abroad. president of the As a honorary president I wish to cordially H.E.Mrs. Dusanka - Divjak „Dobrodojde“ recommend the Magazine to all friends of Tomic ,the Ambassador of the Republic of Serbia in the - Macedonia DMWC, and particularly my dear colleagues Republic of Macedonia Welcome Center from the diplomatic community to continue (DMWC), in to read it and contribute permanently to the Skopje. It makes me very happy and improving of its substance and quality. honored to be one among hundreds who Let me remind the friends of DMWC that respect and love what DMWC has been on June 4, DMWC will continue with co- doing for years. organization of the traditional International - It makes me particularly happy that our Baazar 2016.This manifestation of the specific community is growing from year to humanitarian nature, is organized for the year. The main reason for that I see in the sixth consecutive time by now. character of DMWC as such, and particularly The honorable president of the in humanitarian aspect of its activities. International Bazaar 2016 is the Could it be anything more precious than distinguished ambassador of the Great to provide help to those in need!? Apart of Britain, H.E.Mr Charles Gareth, with unselfish being human, we do not forget yet another help of Madame Gareth. All charity money, priority of DWC – namely, the promotion collected with the support and assistance of friendly and cordial relations between of all other participants, will be distributed a variety of nations and cultures that our to the Street children, mainly of the Roma members and follower represent. community. Let me use this opportunity to It is absolutely natural that the Republic appeal to all of our friends to join together of Macedonia, as our host country, is in our so that some change is made in the lives focus. By better knowing and promoting of these innocent little human beings. They its historic heritage, variety of its natural deserve our humanity and expect us to beauties, contemporary art, culture, and open our hearts to their needs. On your above all - its hospitable people, we bring behalf and my own, I express no trace of a them closer to us and us closer to them. doubt that we will be like one and spare no This the way how we build firm bridges effort to meet their needs. Many thanks in of friendship between our peoples and advance to all of you. Yours sincerely, strengthen mutual trust between the Dušanka Divjak-Tomić, Ambassador

12 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk 2016 DMWC International Charity Bazar Message of the Honorary President of 2016 DMWC International Charity Bazaar Charity Bazaar. I saw it with my own eyes last year: it was huge fun, a few hours really well spent. But it is not just great fun. As a diplomat here, I see the bazaar as an opportunity to engage with citizens of Skopje in two ways which are not part of my day- H. E. Mr. Charles Edmund Garrett, the Ambassador of the United Kingdom of Great to-day life. First, Britain and Northern Ireland by raising money ne of my happiest childhood for children in memories is of the fete, a need, we are engaging with a group that kind of summer bazaar, in most of us rarely come across. This is an the village where we lived opportunity to use our good fortune in near Oxford. Fun with my support of others. And second, it is an Ofriends, sunny weather, delicious food and unusual opportunity to engage direct with drink, games, new experiences. Really Skopje’s general public. The bazaar takes tremendous. place in the GTC, in the heart of Skopje There is a long tradition in the UK, just and at a time when it is busy with shoppers as there is in every country I know, of and people just passing through. coming together as a community to raise So I hope you can come, whether you money for a good cause while also having are helping to run a stall or just dropping some fun. The community might be a in to say hello. There will be plenty of village, a street or two in town, a school wonderful things on sale, and plenty of or workplace. And, around the world, people to chat with. See you there! the diplomatic community likes to do the And before I sign off, let me thank same. Emilija Miladinova Avramcheva, her team Here in Skopje the Dobredojde and all of you who are organising stalls Macedonia Welcome Centre does a and selling lottery tickets. You are doing fantastic job each summer staging the a great job to help make a difference in diplomatic community’s International deserving people’s lives.

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 13 Travel Destination Sacred Gem

s a UNESCO protected Mother. And the third fabulous momentum cultural and natural site, connected with the place is that it is such Lake Ohrid has a lot to offer a magnificent swimming spot. tourists. It hasa unique city The church has a few interesting dualities. architecture, breath taking It is devoted to the Holy Mother of God, Aviews, tiny but marvellous beaches, the but it is also called Zahumska (Saint Zaum splendid river Drim and its calm, bucolic for short). The legend tells us of the king’s springs. The surviving 40 churches in the daughter who was visiting the St. Naum town and its vicinity, among which are the Monasteryfrom Ohrid and was caught ancient monasteries of St Naum and St. there by bad weather. Despite high waves Clement, as well as the Cathedral Church on the lake and contrary to the advice she of St. Sophia and the small church of St. received, she ordered departure for home. John in the fishermen village of Kaneo. The The journey was a narrow escape, and she legend says that Ohrid had 365 churches– founded this church to commemorate her one devoted to each day in the year. misadventure and to express her gratitude However, what can be regarded as for deliverance from peril. The church was touristic discovery, a unique highlight in also a commandment to “think better next a travelogue is a church situated on the time”, and this expression, “za um” gave south-eastern side of the lake some 20 km the church its popular name. from Ohrid, near the village of Trpejca.It An inscription above the entrance is a touristgem for at least three reasons. reveals the dates of construction and of The first one is its location. It is actually the frescoes. It says it was built in 1299 not accessible by foot, but can only be while the frescoes were painted in 1361. reached by boat. The second feature But, often the year 1361 is considered setting this small church apart from others to be the year of its foundation. The is a very rare fresco of breastfeeding Holy church represents a memorial to the

14 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Travel Destination

founder,Grgur, who was a brother of the a cruciform with a dome surmounting the famous medieval ruler Vuk Brankovic. central part. Blind arches divide its three- Another Grigorie (Grgur is also a variant of sided apse. The church in its original shape Grigorie) the bishop of Devol, is mentioned also had a parvis, an enclosed forecourt. as a donor. The Zaum Church, although The frescoes have sustained considerable small, inaccessible and remote, has prime damage. In 1898 the Zaum monastery class heritage treasures. was demolished, and later reconstructed. Like the churches of St. Bogorodica Life size portraits of saints dominate the Perivlepta (St. Clement) and St. John the first zone.Amongst them are the portraits Theologian - Kaneo, it is in the shape of of the hermits St. Clement and St. Naum,

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 15 Travel Destination

Christ and the Holy Mother. The second zone is filled with scenes of the life of the Holy Mother. The highlight of the series is the innovative nature of depicting the interior in the scene of the Nativity of Mary. There are also portraits of SaintsPeter and Paul, as well as of Saints George and Dimitry dressed in aristocratic robes. The portrait of Naum of Ohridstands out among the frescoes: despite visible damage, the preserved parts show the remarkable talent of the unknown artist, especially his expressiveness,spontaneity of compositions and a rich palette of lively light colours.Based on these features, art historians distinguish the fresco master of this church from his contemporaries who worked in Ohrid.It is assumed that the artist gained his painting education in Thessaloniki.The fresco on the eastern wall of the former parvisdepicts Jesus Christ and the Holy Mother dressed in royal garments.

16 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Heritage The Eagle’s Nest of Old Architecture

n the road to Debar there is JaneckiLivadi, where it was safe from an unforgettable view of the looting of the rival Albanian clans. Later village of Jance (pronounced it moved to its present place, to be closer yanche). Nested high to the communication routes. Some of on the slopes of Bistra the village inhabitants converted to Islam, OMountainat 760 meters above sea level, and the village became religiously diverse. a dozen of wonderful houses built ina The number of villagers is constantly traditional styleon terraces running along decreasing, but the seven remaining the mountain take away the breath of the Orthodox Christian families live in peace travellers. and unity with their Muslim neighbours. Going back five hundred or so years, The biggest migration flow took place in Janceis believed to be one of the oldest the mid-twentieth century, towards the villages in the region. Together with many country capital Skopje, while the Muslim other villages scattered over Bistraand population also migrated to Turkey. beyond it belongs to the Mijak territory A big impetus for the revival of the colonised by this celebrated tribe. It village was the business initiative of an waspart of the medieval kingdom of emigrant who came back after years of Skanderbeg, who successfully resisted the work in Italy and invested his savings in Ottomans winning all the battles against a rustic style hotel and restaurant. He the mighty empire overa quarter of a also bought a few old houses built in a century. The legends say that originally traditional local style and saved them the village was even higher in the so-called from crumbling or modernisation that

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 17 Heritage

destroyed the heritage value of some other houses in the village. He decided to stick to the wonderful local building tradition, however costly that may be. He only repaired the roofs,strengthens the walls, replaced the electric fittings and built new sanitary facilities leaving everything else in its original form - the old fireplace, the three-legged chairs, the wooden dishes and pottery. The massive furniture and the traditional round sofras in the eating areas fascinate modern visitors. There are many natural and cultural spots to be visited near the village. The Monastery of Saint John Bigorski is only twenty kilometres away. The spectacular Elenskok (DeerJump) bridge over the abundant TresoneckaReka, is just few kilometres further down. The glacial lake

18 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Heritage

The upper floors were built from wood, with spacious terraces called cardak (pronounced chardak), which stretch horizontally from the one side of the building to the other. The roofs were covered with small stone tiles, grey as the surrounding rocks. Huge chimneys rose from the bottom of the house highabove the roof. The architectural approach is rational; the houses are proportional and wonderfully nested into the surrounding landscape. Members of the Russian Academy of Sciences recently visited Jance in order to prepare a comprehensive study of the village. They found many interesting research topics in its Lokuv, the Duf Waterfalls surrounded by origin, dialect features, customs, beliefs thick pine forest are nearby. A horseback and its population mix. Unlike other Mijak tourto the mythical village of Galicnik that villages, Jance has not been a subject lies further up on the other slope of the of such a study.One of the most famous mountain can be organised on demand. village legends associates Jance with the In the pasthorses and mules were the most important city in the regionduring main means of transportation, so that the Ottoman time, Thessaloniki. It says the road from Jance toGalicnik andfurther that Jance is very similar in its climate north was the shortest route connecting toThessaloniki. So that if there is a the central parts of Macedonia with the snowfall in Jance the same happens in country’swest. the Aegean harbour.Jance is part of the TraditionalMijakhouses are several floors Reka Cultural Summer that includes many high. The first two or three floors are built villages in the region offering theatre of stone, with high and narrow windows, performances, exhibitions and concerts. thus serving as fortifications. Stones are Jance contributes its Pitiad (pie festivities) nicely carved from the front side. The where the best pie is selected by a jury interior blocks are rougher in design. amongst many.

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 19 Heritage The Mosque of the Great Conqueror

famous fortheirwooden ceilings. Thethermal pools inKosovrasti andBanjiste are another local attraction, not to mention the splendid view towards the mountain peaks. After the Ottoman conquest of the whole area, during the 16th century, Debar experienced a rapid development because several important caravan roads leading from Albania towards Struga, Ohrid, Bitola and Kicevo passed through it. Its geographical position, already recognized in the previous centuries, made Debar an administrative, military and trade centre for the wider region. In the year 1521, the firman (decree) of Suleiman the Magnificent, represented Debar as a significant settlement that was the seat of the qadi (judge). This small city once known as Big Debar has a unique Ottoman heritage. But despite its importance as an Ottoman centre, it has preserved religious and ethnic variety, some of its heritagecommemorating the big fighters against the Ottomans, who had earned the respect of their enemies. ebar is a town with rich history Among its Islamic heritage, Debar has seven and magnificent nature. Yet, as mosques, which os atypical for a settlement its it lies in the western most part of size. The oldestmosque dates backto the 14th the country on the border with century,while the newest Clock Tower Mosque Albania, and on the longer route located in the centre of the city was dedicated Dfrom Skopje to Ohrid and Struga, it is not a to 100th anniversary of Albanian independence regular destination for travellers. But the case of celebrated just five years ago. This important Debar proves that the shorter way is not always date was represented by the one hundred the best. The longer road to Ohrid,passes by two windows built with stones. extraordinary artificial lakes, Mavrovo and Debar. Hunkar Mosque It follows the river Radika and then the valley of According to the inscription above the the river Crni Drim. It passes such greatworks entrance to the mosque written in an irregular of old masters as the Monastery-above-Stones sulus script in five lines, the mosque was built (St. John the Baptist), the city Hammam, and in H.872/M.1467-68. But the inscription also Rajcica Monastery. In Debar the tourists can states the year in which it was extensively rebuilt also visit the houses of Erebara and Sela families (H.1357/M.1941), which is probably an error,

20 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Heritage

since the year H.1357 corresponds to M.1938- height and emphasizes the vertical outline of 39). The Hunkar Mosque is the endowment of the mosque. Its shaft is polygonal, while the Fatih Sultan Mehmed Khan (1451-1481). He stalactite decoration continues onto the şerefe was the greatConqueror of Constantinople in (balcony of theminaret). Although modest in 1453. He and his father tried hard to defeat terms in its architectural features and decorative Skanderbeg, the ruler of Debar and the area, elements, this mosque is an expression of the but actually never won a battle in the 25 years local building style of the second half of the 15th of Skanderbeg’s rule. Mehmed succeeded only century characterized by purity and precision of after the death of Skanderbeg, and the Hunkar forms. Mosque marks this conquest of the great ruler The courtyard of the mosque is also the site and warrior. of the tűrbe (mausoleum) of Şaban Baba. It is It stands in a spacious courtyard with a large an open octagonal tűrbe. The polygonal columns number of old graves with richly decorated that form it are spanned with vaulted arches. gravestones. It has a rectangular floor plan and It was built of fine-chiselled rectangular stone is covered with a hip roof. Thesurviving original blocks, which testifies to the importance of the part of the mosque is the prayer hall, where the persons buried there. Thetűrbehas two graves. old walls and window frames have preserved The inscription on one of them states that it is the their original form and position. Mihrab, a niche grave of Şaban Baba, but there is no reference with a modest stalactite decoration were part to the year of its building. However, on the basis of the original interior, while the minbar (pulpit) of its stylistic features, it can be assumed with a and the mahvil (gallery) were added later. The high degree of certainty that it was built in the wooden ceiling was probably restored during the late 18th or early 19th centuries, the time of the reconstruction. The porch on the north-western building of the tűrbe of Kaplan Pasha in Tirana side was added during the restoration of the (Albania), which possesses the same stylistic mosque in the period that followed. Research and architectural characteristics. The presence has shown that the porch supported by ten of the tűrbe and the building technique used in cylindrical columns was probably closed up the construction of the minaret are indicative of during the reconstruction before World War II, the possible presence of an earlier cult structure i.e. nine window openings were placed between on this site. the columns and the entire porch was covered with the mosque’s roof. The slender minaret (The description of the Hunkar Mosque on the south-western side of the mosque that is based on research by the art historian stands on a square base dominates with its Zoran Pavlov)

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 21 “Добредојде“Macedonia Welcome Centrе is pleased to invite you to our arts and crafts fair titled In the Rhythm of Macedonian Arts and Crafts When: 11:00 to 19:00, June 25, 2016, Where: St. Savior (Sv. Spas) compound on Kale

Mrs. Capie A. Polk, spouse of H.E. Mr. Jess L.Baily, the Ambassador of US of America in the Republic of Macedonia - will honor us with her presence and open the event on June 25th at 11AM. Come and see how the masters do it! Try your hand at your favorite Macedonian crafts!

The goal of this arts and crafts fair is to promote the unique characteristics of Macedonian intangible heritage. Over 30 artisans will be showcasing their works. Through public presentations and demonstrations the artisans will demonstrate their skills and knowledge in nurturing the traditional arts and crafts such as filigree, woodcarving, weaving, pottery, and jewelry making. The event’s program also contains a number of workshops in which visitors will have the opportunity to learn from the masters and experiment with traditional techniques. Traditional musical performances will accompany the event.

22 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Presenters: - Association of Woodcarvers of Macedonia - Bitola, Woodcarving - Kristina Maurovska, Weaving Textiles - Lucian Chiuia, Pottery - Marija Miloshevska, Filigree and Artificial Fly

Workshop Program: 12:00 – 14:00 – First Session 16:00 – 18:00 – Second Session

This event is supported by the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Macedonia

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 23 Travel Destination The Mountain and the Echo of a Battle

and mushroom gathe- rers. The backside of the mountain however, reveals that it is just the first step of the big Rodopiareagoing deep into the territory of Bulgaria and Northern Greece. Goten is nested between Plackovica in the north and Ograzden in the south. The slow road full of curves and serpentines leads from the valley he deep and spacious colourful towards Malesevo valley east of the town of region, through the DxamiTepe passage. Radovis, after the village of There, in contrast to the valley, a Swiss- Raklis and towards Podareshas like landscape opens. It is one of the the most fertile soil of the most popular hunting grounds, but also Tregion. Vineyards, corn, tobacco, tomatoes a picturesquelandscape full of trees, fast and peaches fill the valley overlooked by a crystal clear streams, bee hives, plums beautiful tall mountain with a sharp peak. orchards, and cottagesproducing white This mountain and its highest peak Goten and yellow cheeses, sour milk and other are thefront door of the mountain massif dairy products. stretching many kilometres eastwards Apart from these natural beauties ideal towards Bulgaria. for the development of rural and mountain Goten is only 1420 meters high. But as tourism, Goten keeps a trace of one not so its foothills are so low in the valley, the widely known episode that may provide a overall impression is of a higher mountain. theme for developing history tourism, as But even at the actual height, nothing is it has potential for annual re-enactment. amiss. It is a summer destination for the It is the Goten Battleof Easter Day (6th local population escaping the hot and dry April) of 1903 at the dawn of the Ilinden climate of the -Radovis basin. Uprising. It is home to herds of sheep and cows The battle at Goten is important from a putting the region on the map of quality few points of view. It was a winning battle of cheese producers. It is also a destination Macedonian squads (ceta) demonstrating for mountaineers, forest fruits collectors, not only the heroism, but also the skills

24 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Travel destination

the population from resistance through brutal repression. To avoid this scenario, the autonomist movement was forced to call for a popular uprising, even though they were aware that it was premature, as they lacked weapons, military skills and manpower for success. However, both fractions started the preparatory actions. They infiltrated trained revolutionaries and weapons from Bulgaria into the eastern mountainous region. They were operating in Pirin and Malesevo region having small fights with the Ottoman militia. The Ottomans had good intelligence network so that they knew about the movements of the cetas. To intercept them, they surrounded them at Goten mountain. It would have been big success for the Ottomans as cetas from ten regions including Strumica, Radovis, Tikves, Veles, Krusevo, Prilep, Kocani and Kicevo had of freedom fighters who scored a clear assempled on that mountain. victory against better equipped enemy The revolutionaries were surprised outnumbering the revolutionaries more and surrounded at dawn of April 6 as thanoneto ten. It was also a rare example soon as the church bells rang for Easter. of a combat where the two fractions of They entered into a heavy battle,but the revolutionary movement were united. the prospects were not good. They Cetas (pronounced chetas) from both managed,however, to send a courier who the autonomist and the pro-Bulgarian reached the ceta of the Vrhovist Voivod wing helped each other and united against Nikola Lefterov. Lefterov immediately the common enemy. ordered his men to help the surrounded Before the uprising there were two comrades. They rushed uphill and reached fractions in the liberation movement. One the battlefield crawling. They waited for opted for liberation from the Ottomans nightfall and then in a fast onslaught by means of a national uprising, relying broke the Ottoman encirclement. The exclusively on‘its own strength’, while revolutionaries whose overall number the other wanted to engage in armed was around 250 lost 20 combatants dead, incidents which would involve Bulgaria in while the Ottoman losses counted 200. the war against the Ottoman Empire and Many other battles were fought in the thus help the liberation of Macedonia. months before and after the uprising, the The pro-Bulgarian fraction squads started revolutionaries displaying much heroism, the action provoking major interventions but it was usually the much better equipped, by the Ottoman militia, which aimed to trained and outnumbering Ottomans who confiscate illegal weapons and discourage won, and eventually crushed the uprising.

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 25 Travel Destination

Small Lake with a Great Recreational Potential

kopje is one of the hardest The artificial lake was connected with capitals to live in during the the river Treska, the right tributary ofthe summer. The natural landscape Vardar. Treska isa 132 kilometers long and climate combined with the riverthat runs into Vardar in GjorcePetrov, man-made ‘concrete jungle’ just a few kilometers away from the lake. It Smake the city hard to breathe in mid is already burdened by two damns, Matka summers. Skopje city center lies on the built in 1937 and forming the magnificent bottom of the valley where the movement area in the canyon, where the kayaking, of air is very slow. This is made worse alpinism, and cave diving flourish, and the by the huge buildings which block the Kozjak dam built in 2004. breeze transforming the center into a big The lake Treska could have been the last sweltering pot. jewel on the river. It is an artificial lake built Because of this Skopje’s green areas in 1978with financial contributions from all and water features in and just outside of Skopje inhabitants. (This financing model the city are of such a big importance for called samopridones (self-support) was its residents. The city park, the forested often used in socialist times.) The overall parts of the mountain Vodno, the canyon complex is located on 35 ha, out of which and lake Matka and the shaded areas 19 ha are under greenery while the lake around the rivers Vardar and Treska, the covers a surface of 14ha. It is up to three vicinity of Marko’s Monastery and Markova meters deep and has the capacity of 10 Rekaare natural summer air-conditioners. 000 bathers.At the time it was planned One nearby recreational area is, however, as an ideal solution to Skopje summer missing from the above list. It is LakeTreska troubles. located immediately after the village of The complex was however, designed Saraj on the way to the Canyon Matka to satisfy multiple recreational needs. It from Skopje. Unfortunately,this area is not has elegantly designed beach areas with used today to its full potential. full infrastructure including sun protection

26 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Travel Destination

huts, showers, sand and beach games led to its being closed for bathers in 1998. terrains. The surrounding green area This put an end to the popularity of this included camping grounds, tennis courts, area with Skopje dwellers , even if it did afootball field, biking and walking paths. not stop it did not stop local youngsters Restaurants, cafes, ice cream and drinks from swimming in the lake on the hottest stands surrounded the lake. CicinoSelo summer days despite the risk of infections Pavilion erected nearby had a capacity of and insect bites. 160 beds, in two- andfour-bed rooms. It As soon as it was officially closed, had the following facilities: kitchens and many civic initiatives to rehabilitate the dining rooms, swimming pool for children, lake emerged. Even a special ‘Money for park and small sports fields for volleyball, Treska’ fund was established. But the football and basketball. The city and the raised funds were only sufficient to clean recreation area were connected by a the bottom of the lake and to repair the paved road. It was a resort built to the concrete floor of the pool. The authorities highest standards of summer tourism have been looking for different solutions. industry. One early step was to oblige the Public Constructed against the backdrop of the Enterprise for Parks and Greenery to worsening political and economic crisis of maintain at least the green areas around the1980s, the Treska center did not escape the lake. But the cleaning hydro-station the destiny of many companies which was too expensive for the public budget. were unprepared for the market changes Skopje City authorities as well as different and therefore became unsustainable, ministries have considereda public-private neglected and finally closed in 1989.Due investment, or a private concession, but to the lack of maintenance the water so far there have been no concrete offers. in the lake became heavily polluted. In the meantime the decentralization The problem was made worse by new reform has transferred the lake to the construction along Treska. There was no Municipality of Saraj, which immediately sewage treatment plant, and the river no started searching for investors. longer could provide good quality water The regeneration of the whole complex for the lake. Year after year water quality would use the full potential of the Treska in the lake was deteriorating reaching 3rd Lake as a summer escape from Skopje while and 4th degree of contamination, which also employing over a hundred people.

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 27 History The Soft Hearted Kidnappers

n today’s insecure and hostilities- was informed about the missionary plans thorn world little is known of the first and routes of the devout Americans. The modern hostage crisisthat occurred highly respected Dr. House cancelled in Macedonia in the beginning of his trip the last moment, so the rebels the twentieth century. In 1901 the found themselves in a strange situation of Icountry was part of the shrinking Ottoman kidnapping a female missionary, Miss Ellen Empire and the only large European Stone and her pregnant fellow missionary territory still possessed by the once mighty and friend Katerina Stefanova-Cilkaof conquerors. Freedom fighters led mainly Macedonian origin. The cetniks ambushed by teachers, peasants and a few drop- the missionary caravan in the gorges of outs of the military academia organized Rila and Pirin mountains (in present day themselves into small squads called Bulgaria), released the companions and ceta (pronounced ‘’), established took only the precious missionary woman an extensive operational network in the and her pregnant friend. They made them Macedonian mountains and surrounding write a letter to Dr. House, saying that plains. Yet, the ceta-s lacked arms and kidnappers wanted a ransom of 25 000 military skills to engage in serious fights Turkish lira (around 100 000 US dollars with the Ottoman militia. For that they at the time) to free the hostages. Thus needed money. The most ambitious started the notorious “”. cetnik leader of that time, voivode Jane The hostage crisis lasted for five months. Sandanski (later named Pirin Tsar) plotted The kidnapping happened in September to obtain funds for armaments by taking 1901 and lasted until the beginning of ransom. His initial moves to kidnap a rich February 1902. The kidnappers had harsh Ottoman bey were fruitless. So he turned negotiations over the ransom amount and towards American protestant missionaries conditions of the delivery of the money. who managed to built friendship and There was a strong diplomatic pressure trust with the local population. While from the United States, Ottoman Empire embracing the new protestant faith, the and Bulgaria. American and European locals nevertheless remained dedicated to press paid great attention to the affair, the liberation cause. So voivodeSandanski thus creating publicity for the kidnappers

28 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk History

and their cause, which was not at all in to provide comfortable conditions for the favor of the Ottomans, who organized ladies kept in the mountainous wilderness. a major search for the kidnappers and They provided horses, secured cooked offered 50 liras for Sandanski’s head. But meals that were even served on plates. the cetnik’s logistics and aides network And when the time came, they provided proved unbreakable. In harsh weather a cottage and secured the services of conditions, high in the mountains, they an experienced midwife to assist the managed to transfer the hostages from delivery of the baby girl. A few days after one location to another leaving no traces the delivery, when prolonging their stay behind. At the same time, they insisted in one place increased the risk of being on their original ransom demand, which discovered by the authorities, they moved showed their superior understanding of their hostages to another hiding place, their position and the possible traps. They carrying thenew mother in a big coffin. insisted on receiving the money in full Five months into the crisis, in the middle weight golden coins, avoiding banknotes or other forms of payment which could be marked and later lead the authorities to them. They wanted to first receive the payment and then free the hostages, leaving enough time for them to secure their people involved in the physical transfer of the ransom. Eventually they agreed to reduce the amount to 14 500 Turkish lira, estimating that a smaller but immediate transfer would be more beneficialto the cause. In the meantime they had to handle the extremely uneasy situation of caring for an old lady and her pregnant companion. The tough rebels were doing their best

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 29 History

of January, the money was finally transferred. The hostages were released in the beginning of February, after the whole ceta brought them near the village ofGradasorci near Strumica. There they left them in the care of two unarmed men who made sure the ladies were handed over to the authorities and taken to safety. Thus the drama of the three females in the hands of the strong warriors ended successfully. Stone was obviously affected by the ‘Stockholm syndrome’as during the instructions of Goce Delcev, the interrogationsfollowing her release she mastermind of the Organization. Only two did not give away any details which would weeks later an Ottoman telegram referred help the Ottoman authorities apprehend to Sandanski as the main conspirator. the kidnappers. During the whole affair Stone testified that their captors hid their the authorities wrongly suspected Ivan faces and identity,never speaking in front Gavranov, a leader of the Revolutionary of the ladies and that the communicating Organization, and not Sandanski, who with themat night time and under poor was only consulting but not following light. Yet, in the later years, she herself

30 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk History

organized funds providing aid for the with poultry, and home-made oven baked freedom fighters. The ransom money was bread. used for buying modern guns – Colts and Unfortunately, the cottage where Cilka Winchesters from American gun factories. gave birth to baby Elena, in the vicinity No one from the cetniks survived the of the village of Ratevo, near Berovo, liberation struggle. They were killed in collapsed, as no protection or restoration different battles or ambushes. Sandanski was provided by the authorities. survived the withdrawal of the Ottomans from Macedonia in 1912, but was ambushed and killed in fraction conflicts in 1915. Miss Stone lived to the age of 81 and died in her nativeChelsea in the US. Both she and Cilkawrote their memories. The affair provided great publicity for the Macedonian liberation war. Several books were written by different researchers. Memoirs, media reports, and state archives were investigated to get the details of the whole story. One of the first Macedonian films of 1958 was about the affair. Macedonian film director DarkoMitrevskiplans to make another movie about it in Hollywood. Near Strumica, in Vasilevovillage, there is a motel named Miss Stone. The owner wants to keep the memory of his family, who welcomed the released women after the cetniks withdrew. The motel serves traditional meals like those that cetniks and their helpers would have served their hostages 115 years ago: kacamak (corn meal dish), fermented milk, rice

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 31 Society Integrated and Respected

lthough a small religious There is a strong concentration of Uniat minority, the Catholics (Eastern Rites) Catholics in Eastern are playing a visible role Macedonia. The total number of Catholics in Macedonian society. is estimated from 12 to 20 thousands. Moreover, regardless of the The Vatican established diplomatic Ahistorical conditions which were never in relations with the Republic of Macedonia favour of Catholicism, the Catholic Church after it was recognized as an independent has been present in Macedonia throughout state and entered the United Nations the centuries. Roman Catholic believers in 1993. Two years earlier, in 1991, the in the country mostly include Albanians, Catholic Church was officially registered ethnic Macedonians and Croats, but also in Macedonia.In 2000 Pope John Paul Slovenes, Poles and Hungarians. They are II divided Skopje from the Apostolic mostly concentrated in Skopje. Mother Administration of Prizren and today Theresa, born as Anjezë Gonxhe Bojaxhiu, its jurisdiction extends throughout the came from a local Roman Catholic family. territory of Macedonia. One year later he

32 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Society

Roman Catholic Diocese of Skopje. Today the seat of the exarchate is the city of Strumica, and the Assumption Church in this city holds the title of Cathedral. Since Monsignor Herbut passed away,both Catholic institutions in Macedonia have been under the leadership of one person, Kiro Stojanov, who is atthe same time Bishop of Skopje Diocese, perhaps this isthe only such case in the world. The difference between Uniats and Orthodox Christians is only in terms of administrative subordination to different centres and not in terms of religious rituals. In terms of education, the Catholics today have a seminary in Skopje, where boys with vocation can be educated for only two years. After that, they have to continue for two more years in a seminary in Subotica, Serbia. They usually go for theological studies to Fulda, Germany, or to Rome. The Catholic Church’s charitable signed a decree to establish an Apostolic institutions “Caritas” and “Catholic Relief Exarch for Catholics of the Eastern Rite in Services” have launched inter-ethnic and Macedonia. First Exarch appointed was inter-confessional projects involving non- Monsignor Joakim Herbut, bishop of the Catholics like Roma and Albanians, who

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 33 Society

are mostly Muslim. a union with the Pope after a successful Historically, since the Macedonian land insurrection against the Byzantine rule was under Byzantine rule, the majority of in 1187, which lasted until the Ottoman the population belongs to the Orthodox invasion in 1394. The Union of Ferrara- Church. However, there is a long tradition Florence (1438-1439) between the of relations between Macedonian Churches of Rome and Constantinople population and Catholicism. Already in the was a belated move of Christian Europe tenth century, Samuil, who established his to make a coalition against the Ottomans. Kingdom in 972, wanted the blessing of This union was the benchmark for the the Holy See in Romeas the founder of establishment of the Uniate Rite. a new dynasty. This is also seen in the In the 17th century the status of the correspondence between the Bulgarian Orthodox Archbishopric of Ohrid under Tsar Kaloyan and Pope Inokentius III in the Ottomans deteriorated and this led to the 13th century. This correspondence two short-lived unions with Rome.Besides shows that the Pope had acknowledged the attempts for unions, the Catholic Samuil’s title ‘Tsar’, but the exact date Church also tried to take root in the of the crowning ceremony is not known, Macedonian land through its own clergy. although historians suppose that it took According to some estimates, Catholics place between the years 996 and 1000.In of the Latin Rites have been present in the middle ages the Catholic Church tried Skopje since the 14thcentury. A Roman to gain influence through establishing Catholic Archbishop was based in Skopje unions with the Eastern Churches. The as spiritual father of the non-indigenous establishment of a “union” meant that a Catholics, mainly merchants from the church should acknowledge the Pope in Republic of Dubrovnik and mine-diggers Rome as its highest spiritual leader. In from Saxony. In 1647 and 1655, two 1204 King Kaloyan, one of the kings of the other Roman Catholic archbishoprics were Second Bulgarian Kingdom, established opened in Ohrid and Debar respectively,

34 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Society but they hardly had any followers. clergy, with the approval of the Pope. In the middle of the 19th century, the The letter stated that the teachers at the Roman Catholic Lazarist Order entered church schools are to be chosen by the the Macedonian land and established its domestic clergy and the education is to missions and a number of schools. The be pursued in the mother tongue. In 1891 first school was opened in Bitola in 1855, Metropolitan TeodosijGologanov of Skopje the second one in Thessaloniki in 1858. sent a letter to the Pope demanding the re- Their work influenced the Uniat movement establishment of the Ohrid Archbishopric in Kukus (present day Kilkis in Greece). In under his guidance. He also asked for the 1859, 84 Kukus residents wrote a letter to boundaries of that bishopric to be the the Pope in which they acknowledged his boundaries of Macedonia, including the administrative and spiritual leadership. In Kukus Uniat Bishopric. Historians claim return, they demanded that no changes that the reason for the rise of the Uniat should be introduced to their Eastern rites movement was the dissatisfaction with of worship and that they would be the the division of the Macedonian dioceses ones to choose their bishops and lower by the Greek dominated Patriarchate and the Bulgarian Exarchate by the population that distrusted both of them. By the end of the 19th century, the Catholic Church established two Vicariates in Macedonia. The first one was that of the Uniats and was based in Kukus with Epifanij Sanov as Bishop. It included all of southern Macedonia up to Veles in the north. The other Vicariate was that of the Catholics of the Latin Rites. It included areas of Macedonia north of Veles, including Skopje and was based in Prizren in Kosovo. The 20th century wars affected the Catholicsnegatively. They were not welcome both in the Kingdom and in Socialist Yugoslavia. Throughout this period Macedonia Catholics were under the Archbishopric of Sarajevo or of Krizevci, Croatia.But after the 1960s Yugoslavia acquired a more liberal social model which revived religious feelings and practices. They boomed with the end of socialism and the introduction of the democratic system in 1990. Today the Christmas and the Easter messages of Monsenior Stojanovare always broadcast in the media, while the Catholic masses are full with believers, and the state authorities and representatives of other communities honor the Catholics as part of Macedonian diverse social and religious society.

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 35 Agriculture The Delicious and Healthy Fig

eing a country just beyond the friendly environment for the purple and Mediterranean, the southern dark varieties. Local monasteries’ and parts of Macedonia are an ideal mosques’ backyards can surprise the terrain for the FicusCarica, or visitor with a fig tree giving an impression the fig tree. This late summer of theMediterranean and immediately Bdelight grows in the valleys of the lower evoking summer holiday’s melancholy. Of Vardar and its tributaries. The markets course, they may also impart a feeling of and road stands in Gevgelija, Dojran sanctity, most likely, because figs have andValandovooffer an abundance of been known since the beginning of our era. figs,especially the green, Adriatic,variety. They were planted in the Garden of Eden, The unfamiliar passers-by or those who and were a delicacy at Babylonian did not spend their childhoodclose to this and Egyptian courts. Ancient fresh delight might be skepticaloffig’s Greek athletes taste and texture. Indeed, one needs some time to get used to the chewiness of their flesh, smoothness of their skin, and – the most troubling thing – the crunchiness of their seeds. The fig tree can be found even in the higher plains of Strumica, and as farnorth as Kavadarci and Veles. The rocky but sunny terrains around Skopje and in the eastern parts of Macedonia are a

36 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Agriculture favoured them during Olympic Games as they provided the energy needed for the sporting efforts. The figs unlike many other plants do not require any special conditions for their cultivation. They can grow on any soil, even rocky or sandy. This is why they can be spotted even onvertical sides of cliffs, by the roads, and near dumps. They do not require much water. Two rainfalls in a season are enough to supply the tree with fresh water.Roots can find their way to moisture as far as 12 meters away from the tree. The plant is very resistant todiseasesand insects, so there is no need for special protection. And this, at the same time, makes the fig a healthy and eco- ones can preserve their properties for six friendly pesticide-free fruit.As the trees to eight months.One has to remember, grow older, they give bigger and better though, that dry figs have five times more fruits. The fig tree cools the environment calories and sugar than the fresh ones, providing shelter from summer heat in the which may be a concern for dieters and hills and plains. For best fruits the tree people with diabetes. must be exposed to sun. Some varieties The wild figs preserveis among the can give up to four harvests a year. The delicacies which are traditionally produced ones bred in Macedonia bear fruit once or in Macedonia. The preparation is a twice during the season. demanding process. The wild figs are not The figs are a recent discovery of edible when raw. They are hard and have nutritionists and anti-cancer activists. a milky sap that causes allergy. So they They are highly recommended for their must be picked carefully avoiding any dietary properties. Being rich with dietary contact with the sap. They are soaked and fibre, they are a sweet way to lose weight. boiled in several waters, and then cooked As a good source of potassium they help fast with sugar until the syrup is thin and control the blood pressure. The leaves, runny. This dessert was well received at which can be eaten or used to make an Slow Food events, so that now special infusion, have antidiabetic properties:they festivals are dedicated to it in Dojran and reducethe need for insulin. They also surrounding villages. lower the levels of triglycerides and inhibit The fig’s sweet taste ideally combines the growth of certain types of cancer cells. with the salty taste of goat and sheep The figs can be consumed fresh and dried. cheese, and together with almonds they The best figs are have a deep richcolour, are recommended by food connoisseursas and are plump and tender, but not mashy. an hors d’ oeuvre or dessert. Quartered They should have firm stems and be free figs are added to salads with fennel, of bruises. A sour smell indicates that the arugula and Parmesan cheese. They are figs may be spoilt. Butresearchers have used in oatmeal, whole grain porridge, and found that the antioxidant levels peak in different frozen yogurt and ice cream when he fruits are fully ripe,almost to the desserts.The biscuitroll filled with fig jam point of the onset of rot. is one of the most popular products of the While fresh figs do not last long, dried local food industry.

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 37 Poetry Lulëzim Haziri

social sensibility. With the further poetry collections“Kur dyerthapen me zile” (“When doors open by ringing”) (1995), “Daljanga safari” (2005) (“Exiting safari”) and “Vetmi e varursinumërnëportë” (2015) (“Loneliness hanging like a door number”) he continued to enforce a poetic discourse of everyday urban life full of worry, dilemmaand distress. LulëzimHazirihas also expanded into writing short stories, essays and commentary, especially on the rock history and wider culture. Some of these writings are included in his booksof non-fiction “Rokenrollishqiptar!” (2000) (Albanian rock’n’roll”) and “Bardhë e zi” (2010) (“Black and white”). He lives is Gostivar and works as a human rights activist.

Lulëzim Haziri is a poet and journalist. Unlike many other poets, Lulëzim Hazirididn’t He was born in 1962 in Reçan, Gostivar. take poetry as a pamphlet written with He studied at the Technical University in random reference… He doesn’t pretend Prishtina, Kosovo, while his first poems were to change this world, but with his art published in the magazines “Zëriirinisë”, makes it more beautiful. Hazirigets “Bota e re”, “Fjala”, “Rilindja”, etc. In 1989 inspiration from the ugly, about which he the publishing house Rilindjapublished his writes beautifully. His poetry often looks first poetry collection “Këngalindnëvetmi” like prose, but you can find a lot of things (“A song born in solitude”). there. Ordinary things get a new life in With this collection the poet brought his poetry. to the Albanian literature poetry with a SalajdinSalihu

Rhinoceros dreamrestsin his fingers in his arms digging deep It stands aside in the savannah amidst the noise of its own kin It burrows the dry land It digs… the barrenfield It burrows… It delves… with the tip of its horn In droughtin deathin barrenness It painfully dig sin to the earth like It lazily raises its head a possessed archaeologist whose Lookinga t the clouds whispering

38 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Poetry

memories Dreaming of monotonous Never One Never Two Or Three summer rain Whichit would first feel The zero follows them Like tears or sweat But theyarenot zeros Rather than raind ropson its thick skin The lonely people don’t eat Time Moving slowly across the savannah Far Dry from the noise of his kin They write letters with tearful eyes And never mail them All the way to the rainbow, to the river to Loneliness does not stamp them It makes you hang yourself on a line drink of words And likea scratched record chants repeatedly The song is born in loneliness Morningsong The song is born in loneliness The songis born in loneliness Fedup with the nocturne written at mid- ……………………………………. day I wokeup with the first sunshine Busts Together with the cockcrow of selfpraise I opened my eyes and looked through The sculptors were not bothered by their the window real appearances but the bronze men The fluorescent lightsp read out it sarms were handsom eany way All the way to infinity the leaves above them were made The traffic lights winked anxious aswere the freezing lovers The city buses hurried heedlessly beneath them by their bronzesilence The passers-by carried their severed But the stagecurtain lifts up heads Their hands searching pockets full and those handsome mena reremoved of illusions Newspapers sticking out of on tractors their eyes of metal looking the irrims broken As the most efficient cure for the lack of communication while watching the streetsand the squares In this age of eclipses saddened by the betrayal, the lies, plots When the nocturnesare written at mid- and hatred day The neglected bustsare most attractive when a pigeon or crowdropssomeshit on The sunhangs at the zenith Marking their regular nose and when the end of the market day When with the garbage collectorspayno attention to it darkglasses on my nose I set outsearch Even myself feel off end ed when wipingit of the singing cocks. off An old man comes along the all eyand wave shisstick TheBirthof theSong at the nose of abust,saying: “Thisthief stole two of my cows!” The lonely people are like zeros You add them translated by Zoran Ancevski You subtractthem

www.dmwc.org.mk • June 2016 39 Art Gorjan Georgiev

was born in 1965 in Skopje, studied in the classes of Semov Simon, Peter Mazevand Rodoljub Atanasov, graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts in Skopje, Painting, in 1987.DLUM member since 1988.He participated in many exhibitions and art colonies in the country and abroad. He lives and works in Skopje. Tel 078310934, email [email protected].

More than twenty years old productive and creative path of Gorjan Gjorgjiev is wholeheartedly respectable, a respect that his output deserves as well. Gorjan Gjorgjiev is a member of the mid generation of Macedonian painters who graduated at the Faculty of fine art in Skopje.Deeply intimate, artistically matured, his works reach us, bringing memories of the beauty expressiveness of the gesture. and the happiness of life. Gorjan Gjorgjiev’s motives, thematic and His works can be defined as so called subject, are presented in an especially spontaneous images, that on the first massive form with emphatic parts of the impression are created rapidly and body, such as the arms, the body, the eyes, without any preparation. The regular the mouth. Often, mythological bulls are motives, the woman, the child, the man, presented with handsome monumentality. the mythological bulls, the flowers etc. are The boundaries of the main figures refined with given dash or spontaneity, disappear to a stylized presentation of feeling, intuitively with a color and contours that might indicate something shape, with a tendency towards creating for themselves. cohesion of the painting. For him, the The motif, the things are painted by the elements are alive, they breathe and hand of the author’s imagination, through speak, they reproduce in order to confirm the prism of the fantasy, of the dream, the their meaning. imaginary, the emotion. With an excellent A special attention is paid to the color. compositional resolution of surface, he It is strong, intensified and it is of great creates a complex presentation indeed. importance to him. The blue, the green, His art is the one of the dream, the the red, the yellow are elements of fantasy, the reality, that interchange universality, that he wants to present among each other, and live in symbiosis in the painted work. The application of with the elements of the metaphorical, the color is fully expressionistic and he the symbolical and the provocative controls it with the contour. His desire to interpretation. play with the color is evident. His interest is directed towards the human Tatjana Bundalevska and the animal figure, using complete self-expression with an accent of the

40 June 2016•www.dmwc.org.mk Art

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