Quick viewing(Text Mode)

Challenging 2020 Harvest Will Yield High Quality California Wines

Challenging 2020 Harvest Will Yield High Quality California Wines

CHALLENGING 2020 WILL HIGH QUALITY CALIFORNIA

With California’s 2020 harvest season—marked by While the wildfire season impacted many the dual challenges of COVID-19 and record individual vintners and growers in some regions, wildfires—behind them, vintners across the state the blazes affected a small percentage of the are expressing excitement about the quality of the industry overall. Of the 4,200 in . Following a cool, mild growing season, an California, fewer than 20 reported significant August heat spell accelerated ripening, resulting damage to wineries. In regions that experienced in an early start to harvest—one to two weeks wildfires, growers and winemakers are working ahead of normal in most regions. The crop is together to assess and mitigate any smoke expected to be smaller than average. exposure issues. 2020 HARVEST REPORT Nov. 16, 2020 / 2

“A dry winter with just half of the region’s typical Corey Beck, CEO and head of at rainfall, was followed by a warmer-than-average Francis Ford Coppola in Sonoma County, summer. Berries were small, with concentrated is also optimistic about the vintage. Based on flavors. “That’s typically a good recipe for quality,” small-batch fermentation trials, he said, “It was said Jon Ruel, CEO of Trefethen Family like, ‘Oh my god, these wines are terrific.’ The in Napa. bones and the quality of the vintage are there. What we picked and what the consumer is going Napa Valley’s white wines fared especially well. to see is going to be absolutely incredible.” “The has wonderful fruit character and great stone fruit flavors,” he added. “It’s a little lower in acid than normal, reflecting the warmer vintage. I also think this is going to be a The 2020 harvest is the topic of “The Winemaker classic vintage for our .” Ruel decided not Sessions,” a webinar held Nov. 17, 2020. A panel of to pick some later-ripening reds due to smoke internationally recognized vintners and winegrowers from across California cover trends, challenges and concerns, however other Napa wineries are opportunities in 2020. See Institute’s YouTube assessing their red wines and will produce channel to view the webinar. Cabernet Sauvignons and other reds. “I’ve had a chance to taste our and ,” he said, “and they taste great.” Photos by George Rose 2020 HARVEST REPORT Nov. 16, 2020 / 3

Winemaker Comments from Across the State

For Kosta Browne Winery, which produces wines “I’ve rarely seen the fruit come in so balanced at from five coastal appellations, growing conditions relatively lower levels,” said Justin Boeger, were nearly ideal, with the exception of some winemaker at Boeger Winery in Placerville, El spring frost in the Russian River Valley that Dorado County. “Our Italian , reduced yields, said winemaker Julien Howsepian. and , really stood out, with In the Sta. Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County, the the making a strong showing as well. Not vines enjoyed a long, leisurely growing season. “I to stray into hyperbole, but I think 2020 will be found the flavors in our Pinot Noirs to be one of our best of the last decade.” sensational at a very early stage.”

In Lodi, vintners overcame challenges stemming from mid-season heat spikes and wildfire smoke. “While Lodi sustained many days of poor air quality,” said Markus Bokisch, owner/winemaker at Bokisch Vineyards, “sensory analysis coupled with lab results showed no smoke impact to the wines. Despite the heat spikes, he added, “The fruit retained its acidity. Phenological ripeness was excellent, leading to fully flavored wines at lower Brix. We are very pleased across the board, but I would say that the later-season reds, such as , Cabernet and Petite Sirah, will be exceptional in our area.”

For vintners in the Sierra Foothills region, warm weather signaled an early start to the season, followed by a mild summer with only one or two heat spells. 2020 HARVEST REPORT Nov. 16, 2020 / 4

In the Central Coast, a cool spring and mild summer temperatures extended the growing season. Harvest timing was average, and yields were typical.

“I think it will be more of a balanced year,” said Nicholas Miller of Miller Family Wines, owners of the Bien Nacido & Solomon Hills Estate Wineries in Paso Robles and Santa Maria Valley. “In Paso Robles, Cabernet came in short in several areas as did our Chardonnay. With no immediate fires around our vineyards, we have felt good so far about the quality of that wine and tests have supported that,” said Miller. “In Santa Maria Chad Melville, head winegrower at Melville Valley, we’re pretty excited about what we’re Winery in Lompoc, Santa Barbara County, seeing with Pinot Noir. We see potential for some reported a near-perfect growing season. “This great wines from 2020.” year’s fruit was intense, vibrant and beautiful,” Melville said, “Generally speaking, the Pinot Noirs have been darker than usual and they’re more vibrant. We haven’t started fermenting the yet, but it looks and tastes really good. And Chardonnay has more intensity.”

In Temecula, April brought record rains that challenged vintners with increased mildew pressure. Triple-digit temperatures in late August and early September caused some desiccation and sunburn for later-ripening varieties. “Fruit quality overall was very solid, and while the vintage might be a riper year due to the heat, I believe we managed it well,” said Jon McPherson, master winemaker at South Coast and Carter Estate wineries. I would say 2020 is better than 2019 in respect to richness and depth of character.” 2020 HARVEST REPORT Nov. 16, 2020 / 5

Regional Harvest Reports

AMADOR COUNTY to ensure quality. All varieties appear light for some vintners, but the to have fared well in the region, and resulting wines are elegant with Total winegrape acreage: 3,635 quality is very high. Yield sizes good acid levels. appear to be nearly identical to Most-planted varieties: and Barbera those of 2019. LAKE COUNTY

This was a picture-perfect year for Total winegrape acreage: 10,014 EL DORADO COUNTY the region’s vines and . Evenly Most-planted grape varieties: paced, the growing season began Total winegrape acreage: 2,205 and Sauvignon with an early bud break and Blanc continued with no frost, prolonged Most-planted grape varieties: cold spells or heat spikes. Harvest Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and White wines are showing especially began about two weeks earlier than Syrah well for the 2020 vintage, with lighter yields than normal. Weather normal, with average to slightly Vintners are reporting very good during the growing season was mild below average yields. The region quality from the 2020 harvest. The through most of the season, followed experienced little, if any, impact growing season was steady, with no by a manageable heat spike in from wildfires, which were far from frost damage and very few September. Harvest began slightly Amador County. The pandemic temperature swings or storms. earlier than normal due to the situation presented some challenges Temperate weather in the early part September heat and finished rapidly. during harvest, due to social of the season set up good flowering, The region did experience some distancing logistics and staffing and moderate temperatures after set smoke impacts from fires in issues. Quality across all grape facilitated easy, well-paced fruit surrounding counties, and lost some varieties looks excellent, with good maturation. While two August heat crop. Overall, vintners are reporting acid balance and strong color. Many spikes led to a somewhat compacted great quality in the harvested winemakers feel that 2020 was one harvest, temperatures were mainly fruit—especially Cabernet Sauvignon of the best harvests of their careers. moderate during picking, allowing and —and are crews to breathe a bit after a busy expecting an exceptional year for start. Picking began in early CALAVERAS COUNTY white wines. September and finished a bit earlier Total winegrape acreage: 721 than normal. The region experienced Most-planted grape varieties: a few smoky days from wildfires in LIVERMORE VALLEY other regions, but so far there Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Total winegrape acreage: 4,000 Cabernet Sauvignon appear to be no impacts in the wines. Red varieties are showing Most-planted grape varieties: Similar to 2019, the 2020 growing incredible color and fruit intensity, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay season in Calaveras County was with mature character. Cabernet and smooth, with a later than normal Franc has great depth and structure, start to the harvest. Wildfires led to The 2020 vintage produced Zinfandel is displaying depth and some concern about smoke impacts, high-quality, well-balanced fruit. The Syrah looks promising. Yields for but vintners and growers are closely growing season began uneventfully, Riesling and Chardonnay were a little monitoring fruit through lab testing with typical temperatures and 2020 HARVEST REPORT Nov. 16, 2020 / 6

average timing for bud break and other later-ripening varieties are sub-appellations more affected by flowering. As summer progressed, showing good concentration. Yields smoke than others. Even so, smoke heat waves caused sunburn in some were down quite a bit across the impacts were very low, considering vineyards, leading to dropped fruit region, with some older field blends the size and duration of the fires. In and some delayed maturity. The off 15% to 25% from last year. spite of the challenges, overall region experienced poor air quality quality is very good, especially for during the fires, but the smoke MADERA COUNTY whites. The region’s major varieties wasn’t heavy or close enough to the performed well, particularly Livermore Valley to have much of an Total winegrape acreage: 30,007 Chardonnay, as well as Cabernet impact. So far, vintners are very Most-planted grape varieties: Sauvignon from sub-American happy with the quality of the fruit, French , and Viticultural Areas outside of which is showing no signs of smoke Chardonnay smoke-affected areas. Compared to issues. Balance of , acid and pH 2019, yields were down 30% or more Vintners are reporting good quality look good, and yields were average for Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet and a light yield for 2020. The to slightly below average. Sauvignon. The Chardonnay yield weather was good for bud break in was slightly higher than normal. spite of a few heat waves. The season LODI was mellow overall, and ideal toward Total winegrape acreage: 100,000 the end of harvest. For many MONTEREY COUNTY vintners and growers in the region, Total winegrape acreage: 46,139 Most-planted grape varieties: 2020 was the latest harvest they’ve Cabernet, Chardonnay and Most-planted grape varieties: ever experienced—starting around Zinfandel Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and three to four weeks later than usual. Cabernet Sauvignon Excellent quality and vibrant Although tonnage is about a third character define Lodi’s 2020 vintage. lighter than average this year, The growing season started out The season got off to a slightly later winemakers are very pleased with great—with mild weather and start, with a delayed and slow bud quality. Tempranillo, Syrah and normal timing for bud break—but break across the region. Weather did especially well. So far wildfires took a toll on the year’s impacts on bloom contributed to a there is no sign of smoke exposure crop that has yet to be fully lighter crop for some varieties. issues. determined. In keeping with a more Fortunately, Lodi was not directly normal Monterey Bay coastal harvest impacted by the wildfires, the closest MENDOCINO COUNTY cycle, picking began in some areas of which was 70 miles away, during the third week of August, but although air quality was poor for Total winegrape acreage: 17,470 in September, wildfires occurred in several weeks during harvest. Most-planted grape varieties: the region. A majority of the Vintners across Lodi are reporting Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon county’s fruit was impacted by excellent quality for the young and Pinot Noir smoke from the fires, and yields wines, with great freshness and were severely diminished due to White wines are looking especially vibrancy, and good flavors at lower smoke issues. However, depending good for the 2020 vintage. The sugar levels. Sauvignon Blanc, upon a ’s , growing season was mild to Chardonnay and other white variety and direction of winds, moderate overall, with bud break varieties look very promising. quality fruit was harvested from and flowering occurring a week Zinfandel quality continues to some locations. Despite the earlier than in 2019, and more spring increase, displaying vibrant challenges, vintners remain frost events than typical. Mendocino character and lower alcohol levels. committed to only putting wines of County saw some impacts from the Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and quality in the bottle. recent wildfires, with certain 2020 HARVEST REPORT Nov. 16, 2020 / 7

NAPA VALLEY Robles wines. In late August, wildfire SANTA BARBARA smoke found its way to the Paso Total winegrape acreage: 45,342 Robles region. It was mostly limited Total winegrape acreage: 15,750 Most-planted grape varieties: to the upper atmosphere, but some Most-planted grape varieties: Pinot Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay higher-elevation areas experienced Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah and Merlot smoke at the surface. Fortunately, it Yields were higher across the board was limited in duration and overall The 2020 growing season in Napa this year, with most varieties exposures. Fire impact was entirely Valley was cool and mild for most of showing good quality. Bud break and dependent on the location of the the spring and summer. The heat flowering were strong, and optimal vineyards within the appellation. At spells in early August, over Labor temperatures and a lack of spring this point, overall quality looks Day weekend, and again in rain and wind led to promising fruit excellent, with intense flavor late-September, sped up ripening. set. Set was heavy compared to development in the fruit and very Due to the accelerated growing previous years, with full clusters and little to no pyrazine (bell pepper cycle, many wineries brought in a high juice to skin ratio. Harvest aroma) issues. Sugar and acid levels white grapes prior to or in the early was impacted by wildfires, plus four are similar to those of 2019. Some of days of the LNU Complex Fires, and unusual heatwaves that were the region’s older Cabernet the harvest looks very managed with appropriate watering. Sauvignon lost as much as 20% of its promising. Many grapes There is concern about smoke yield due to the heat waves, and were also harvested earlier than damage in some of the grapes, but most later-ripening varieties were typical this year, with some picked all of the fruit was harvested and down around 10%. Yields for prior to the start of the Glass Fire, vintners remain optimistic, since the earlier-ripening grapes are flat or and wineries are conducting a fires were not located within the slightly up. Thanks to the overall thorough analysis for smoke region. Acidity is lower this year due high quality of the 2020 fruit, Paso impacts. While a number of to the heat waves, but the quality Robles should be a bright spot in the individual Napa Valley wineries have and character of the fruit were state’s 2020 vintage. made announcements about their maintained. Pinot Noir fared well 2020 vintage, many wineries plan to and Chardonnay quality is good. make wine and are optimistic about SAN DIEGO COUNTY Despite some heat impacts, Syrah is the potential. While the harvest will Total winegrape acreage: 693 showing good complexity and looks be smaller than usual, the promising. 2020 vintage will not be absent from Most-planted grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah the history books. The region’s SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS vision to produce world class wine is The growing season kicked off with unwavering, and only wine worthy of a wet spring, followed by normal Total winegrape acreage: 1,526 having Napa Valley on the label will timing for bud break and flowering. Most-planted grape varieties: Pinot make it into the bottle. Temperatures were very warm Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and during , followed by a Chardonnay typical start to harvest and an early PASO ROBLES The 2020 growing season brought finish. Fruit quality is excellent, with ideal spring weather, with optimal Total winegrape acreage: 40,000 lots of flavor. As long as growers paid bud break and flowering. A summer Most-planted grape varieties: attention to weather forecasts and heat spike affected vines in pockets Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and pre-watered before the heat spells, of the appellation, causing a Syrah all varieties fared well. Yields were reduction in yields in some about 20% lower than normal this Despite this year’s challenges, 2020 vineyards. Otherwise, fruit looked year. should be a great vintage for Paso excellent. The CZU Complex fire 2020 HARVEST REPORT Nov. 16, 2020 / 8 combined with the River fire in of the county’s grapes went unpicked TEMECULA Monterey brought in quite a bit of this year, and it remains to be seen smoke, and vintners are awaiting which wines will be made in 2020. Total winegrape acreage: 2,500 test results to determine how However, many vintners are Most-planted grape varieties: widespread the impacts will be. optimistic about the quality of the Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Grapes that have tested clean show harvested fruit. Fortunately, as a Petite Sirah amazing quality. Yields were lower result of this year’s early harvest, This will be an exceptional year for this year due to the heat spikes and more than 15% of the region’s grapes early-ripening varieties. The growing potential smoke issues. had been picked before the LNU season brought early and late rains, Complex fires began and 90% had with a dry spell in mid-winter. been harvested by the start of the SONOMA COUNTY Timing for the start of harvest was Glass fire. Many growers, vineyard typical for the past 20 years, but Total winegrape acreage: 59,326 workers and their families were later than the last five years. Record forced to evacuate their homes and Most-planted grape varieties: temperatures in late August and ranches, and in response, the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and September caused some heat damage Sonoma County Grape Growers Cabernet Sauvignon in later-ripening varieties such as Foundation reopened its Resiliency Although the 2020 growing season Cabernet Sauvignon, but quality for Fund in August to raise funds to enjoyed near-perfect growing early varieties looks to be support local farmworkers impacted conditions, a mid-August lightning exceptional. Viognier, and by evacuations or loss of work. storm resulted in a dramatic turn for are showing excellent Sonoma County’s winegrapes. It was quality, and Petit Sirah looks very estimated that between 25% and 30% good. Yield size was about 20% lower than in 2019.

WINE INSTITUTE 425 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94107

www.wineinstitute.org

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Contact Nancy Light or Gladys Horiuchi

[email protected]

Top View