Cheese Knives
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Italians Guide to more than 400 Italian Cheese (and many foreign cheeses). compiled by the architect Marco Parenti Dear Andrea, preparation. The French, on the other You have asked me to design and hand, pass off different varieties be- Italians. illustrate the characteristics of knives cause they change the shape or refine for Italian cheeses because you want the taste with various sauces but there to create a line called “Italians”. What are really very few cheeses that are truly a great idea! It is no surprise that the different. For Italian Cheeses. best carvers, who gratified and de- The idea is to keep in mind the lighted the Renaissance Courts with principal differences in cheeses but their art of carving, were Italians. also the needs of consumers, gourmets 2 3 However be careful, because if we or epicurean connoisseurs who enjoy prepare a set of knives for Italian the pleasure of savouring the finer And not just cheese… cheeses, we must make knives for things in life, in food. every type of cheese on earth! I am sending you some of my Yes, because our cheeses are unique thoughts, take a look and let me know. and many, as our friends on the other In the meantime, I wish to send you my From a letter by the architect Marco Parenti side of the Alps say. We have more than most savoury and cheese-like regards! four hundred types of cheese, each one Architetto Marco Parenti different in consistency, flavour and here has never been doubt xists and feels the ne- T that a perfect cut is an indi- cessity to write a why it is necessary spensable prerequisite in order to book dedicated to fully enjoy any course of food. the art of cheese Imagine how important this cutting, means that must be for one like myself, who the efforts involved to cut was born and raised in a family in the attempt to per- 4 5 that has passed down the art of petuate the tradition knife making for one hundred of Italian knife ma- years. king are fully justified cheese well and increasing all the The idea that cutting cheese could become the object of such time. passion, as demonstrated by It is not only for Introduction by Andrea Berti Marco Parenti, has surprised and aesthetic even moved me. When one discovers someone e- reasons or good taste, but good taste of a cheese is different in the shapes of the innumera- ble and noble food, manners require the appropriate center with respect to the taste in ble cheeses, which ha- simple yet rich. cut for cheeses. As in the case of other parts of the cheese, parti- ve always been produ- Andrea Berti meats, which require smooth cut- cularly near the crust. ced in Italy. ting with a non-serrated sharpe- Therefore if one wants to sa- This is why and how ned knife, in order not to lose the vour the entire range of tastes in this set of knives juices and fluids which are con- a cheese, it should be cut only was produced: served in the meat, cheese must when fully aware of the orga- 6 7 to allow for also be cut according to the pro- noleptic gradations in the various a perfect per criteria, in order to savour parts. cut of our fully its taste. In order to do this, specific cheeses, a The answer is clear and simple instruments are required: knives tribute to although not widely known. Most that tradition has perfected over a hum- cheeses present variations in fla- the course of time; shaping them vour according to the part of the in function of the consistency of cheese tasted. In other words, the dairy cheese and the sizes and roperly cutting a cheese me- P ans distributing the same cutting cheese properties, aromas, scents and consistencies to each cut of cheese, liberating all the wonders that this nectar can bestow, The architect Marco Parenti reveals the secrets making our taste buds come 8 9 alive! One must know the cheese well, since not all cheeses have the same shape and not all cheeses have a uniform taste. There are dairy cheeses with thick non-edible crusts, others have only thin veils of penicil- liums which develop during maturation. The external part of the cheese slices of dairy cheese, notions of can be eaten with the body of the geometry are no longer necessary. cheese itself as observed by the It is better to address the simpler connoiffeur Pierre Androuet. discussion of proportion, bearing in Furthermore, there are cheeses mind the type of cheese which are tastier near the crust which must be cut, to due to maturation and some enhance the taste. connoisseurs prefer this part of In fact I have the cheese to that of the center. noted that the par- This is why every cheese and ts near the crust in shape of cheese needs a specific fontina, tome stra- method of cutting. vecchie and pane- The starting point for choosing rone cheeses are ra- the correct type of cut is the ther tasty. shape of the cheese itself. To deprive a guest When working on segments or of such a pleasure in order to serve equal portions of plateau des fromages, Paris, 1981. G. BO- maggi d’Italia, Tori- the crust and central part is not NOMO, Cucina al formaggio, Roma, 1970. no, 1971. C. NASI, En- really in good taste. Therefore it CAMERA DI COMMERCIO DI CUNEO, chiridio del buongustaio Guida ai formaggi tipici della provincia di in Piemonte, Torino, 1971. is necessary to take into conside- Cuneo, Cuneo, 1979. A. CAPEDER, Formag- B. PASSARIN, Le tome ration the different taste sensa- gi e salumi, Milano, 1973. E. CARBONE, I piemontesi, Milano, 1969. tions of the cheese in order to ob- formaggi tipici del Piemonte, Milano, 1972. C. PLUME, Formaggi nel tain the correct cut. F. CUNSOLO, Guida gastronomica d’Italia, mondo, Milano, 1969. RE- Cheeses are enhanced more Milano, 1969. ED. DEL DRAGO, Cucinare GIONE PIEMONTE, I for- il formaggio, Milano, 1979. G. DELFORNO, 12 13 maggi tipici del Piemonte, when cut correctly according to I formaggi minori del Piemonte e della Valle Torino, 1979. ED. SIGMA, Sa- the type of cheese. d’Aosta, Torino, 1982. A. DENTI DI PIRA- lumi e formaggi, Bologna, 1976. JNO, Il gastronomo educato, Venezia, 1950. L. VERONELLI, Alla ricerca dei Brief bibliography R. DI CORATO, 451 formaggi d’Italia, Mi- formaggi contadini, Milano, 1972. lano, 1977. M. DI MAJO, I formaggi delle L. VERONELLI, L’aristocrazia dei M. ALBERTINI, I formaggi, Firenze, 1971. Alpi, Torino, 1977. J.P. GALLOIS, Il libro formaggi, Milano, 1972. M. PAREN- ANDROUET, Guide du fromage, Paris, 1971. d’oro dei formaggi, Milano, 1979. L.IM- TI, De arte resecandi casei, L’arcere, Cu- L. BIONDI, 100 piatti al formaggio, Bologna, BRIANI, Il formaggio a tavola ed in cucina, neo, 1991. M. PARENTI, Alla ricerca del for- 1966. J. BONNET, Fetes: des idées pour votre Milano, 1975. G. MAFFIOLI, Guida ai for- maggio perduto, L’arcere, Cuneo, 1997. he cut is the clean separation T of the body of a cheese, wi- the cut thout chipping or tearing of the walls. This occurs when the resi- stance of the cheese is minute with respect to the cutting force. and the texture The blade needs to be thin enough 14 15 so as not to create cracking or se- paration due to compression. of cheese Depending on the consistency “friction”, which happens when of the dairy cheese, a particular bla- cutting a slice of meat or salami. de is necessary. Furthermore, due Cutting cheese means only to the fact that fibers of cheese are one cut, from top to bottom. different to those of meat, they do not create a resistance causing ach cheese requires a pre- E cise cutting ritual. Shape, every consistency and size determine specific cutting requirements for 1 each type of cheese and therefore the type of instrument to be used. cheese The following is a list of our 16 17 specialized cheese knives. 1. the bow has its own knife 2. the compact 3. the spatula 4. the trapezium 5. the soft cheese 6. the hard cheese 23 4 5 6 7 7. the semi-hard cheese trated on the handle and only in ca- ses of extreme resistance should the hard-cheese knife the other hand be used, by pressing on the back of the blade. Pay atten- tion! In order to avoid a fraying of Which cheese to cut with this in order to overcome the resistance the cheese, the cut must be clean knife: matured asiago, hard bra, due to the consistency of the che- and precise without any sliding bitto, provolone, torna stravecchio, ese. A suitable knife must have a movement. The knife must pe- montasio, calcagno and all cheeses thin blade but it must be wide and 18 19 netrate the cheese perpendicular to with similar characteristics. How strong enough to support the force the resting plane and must cut from to use this knife: cutting hard of the cut and cleanly separate the top to bottom with a uniform cheeses necessitates a certain force cheese. The force must be concen- pressure. The cut must be well balanced and the knife must penetrate perfectly horizontal, to avoid breaking the cheese at the end of the cut. the knife is lightly curved in the the semi-hard cheese knife center, almost like a wedge. This knife can be transformed into a type of saw with a short Which cheese to cut with this shaped to cut without causing oblique movement when the knife: fontina, raschera, fresh chipping or tearing of the cheese, crust is very resistant.