Italians

Guide to more than 400 Italian (and many foreign ). compiled by the architect Marco Parenti Dear Andrea, preparation. The French, on the other You have asked me to design and hand, pass off different varieties be- Italians. illustrate the characteristics of knives cause they change the shape or refine for Italian cheeses because you want the taste with various sauces but there to create a line called “Italians”. What are really very few cheeses that are truly a great idea! It is no surprise that the different. For Italian Cheeses. best carvers, who gratified and de- The idea is to keep in mind the lighted the Renaissance Courts with principal differences in cheeses but their art of carving, were Italians. also the needs of consumers, gourmets 2 3 However be careful, because if we or epicurean connoisseurs who enjoy prepare a set of knives for Italian the pleasure of savouring the finer And not just cheese… cheeses, we must make knives for things in life, in food. every type of cheese on earth! I am sending you some of my Yes, because our cheeses are unique thoughts, take a look and let me know. and many, as our friends on the other In the meantime, I wish to send you my From a letter by the architect Marco Parenti side of the Alps say. We have more than most savoury and cheese-like regards! four hundred , each one Architetto Marco Parenti different in consistency, flavour and here has never been doubt xists and feels the ne- T that a perfect cut is an indi- cessity to write a why it is necessary spensable prerequisite in order to book dedicated to fully enjoy any course of food. the art of cheese Imagine how important this cutting, means that must be for one like myself, who the efforts involved to cut was born and raised in a family in the attempt to per- 4 5 that has passed down the art of petuate the tradition knife making for one hundred of Italian knife ma- years. king are fully justified cheese well and increasing all the The idea that cutting cheese could become the object of such time. passion, as demonstrated by It is not only for Introduction by Andrea Berti Marco Parenti, has surprised and aesthetic even moved me. When one discovers someone e- reasons or good taste, but good taste of a cheese is different in the shapes of the innumera- ble and noble food, manners require the appropriate center with respect to the taste in ble cheeses, which ha- simple yet rich. cut for cheeses. As in the case of other parts of the cheese, parti- ve always been produ- Andrea Berti meats, which require smooth cut- cularly near the crust. ced in . ting with a non-serrated sharpe- Therefore if one wants to sa- This is why and how ned knife, in order not to lose the vour the entire range of tastes in this set of knives juices and fluids which are con- a cheese, it should be cut only was produced: served in the meat, cheese must when fully aware of the orga- 6 7 to allow for also be cut according to the pro- noleptic gradations in the various a perfect per criteria, in order to savour parts. cut of our fully its taste. In order to do this, specific cheeses, a The answer is clear and simple instruments are required: knives tribute to although not widely known. Most that tradition has perfected over a hum- cheeses present variations in fla- the course of time; shaping them vour according to the part of the in function of the consistency of cheese tasted. In other words, the dairy cheese and the sizes and roperly cutting a cheese me- P ans distributing the same cutting cheese properties, aromas, scents and consistencies to each cut of cheese, liberating all the wonders that this nectar can bestow, The architect Marco Parenti reveals the secrets making our taste buds come 8 9 alive! One must know the cheese well, since not all cheeses have the same shape and not all cheeses have a uniform taste. There are dairy cheeses with thick non-edible crusts, others have only thin veils of penicil- liums which develop during maturation. The external part of the cheese slices of dairy cheese, notions of can be eaten with the body of the geometry are no longer necessary. cheese itself as observed by the It is better to address the simpler connoiffeur Pierre Androuet. discussion of proportion, bearing in Furthermore, there are cheeses mind the type of cheese which are tastier near the crust which must be cut, to due to maturation and some enhance the taste. connoisseurs prefer this part of In fact I have the cheese to that of the center. noted that the par- This is why every cheese and ts near the crust in shape of cheese needs a specific , tome stra- method of cutting. vecchie and pane- The starting point for choosing rone cheeses are ra- the correct type of cut is the ther tasty. shape of the cheese itself. To deprive a guest When working on segments or of such a pleasure in order to serve equal portions of plateau des fromages, Paris, 1981. G. BO- maggi d’Italia, Tori- the crust and central part is not NOMO, Cucina al formaggio, Roma, 1970. no, 1971. C. NASI, En- really in good taste. Therefore it CAMERA DI COMMERCIO DI CUNEO, chiridio del buongustaio Guida ai formaggi tipici della provincia di in Piemonte, Torino, 1971. is necessary to take into conside- Cuneo, Cuneo, 1979. A. CAPEDER, Formag- B. PASSARIN, Le tome ration the different taste sensa- gi e salumi, Milano, 1973. E. CARBONE, I piemontesi, Milano, 1969. tions of the cheese in order to ob- formaggi tipici del Piemonte, Milano, 1972. C. PLUME, Formaggi nel tain the correct cut. F. CUNSOLO, Guida gastronomica d’Italia, mondo, Milano, 1969. RE- Cheeses are enhanced more Milano, 1969. ED. DEL DRAGO, Cucinare GIONE PIEMONTE, I for- il formaggio, Milano, 1979. G. DELFORNO, 12 13 maggi tipici del Piemonte, when cut correctly according to I formaggi minori del Piemonte e della Valle Torino, 1979. ED. SIGMA, Sa- the type of cheese. d’Aosta, Torino, 1982. A. DENTI DI PIRA- lumi e formaggi, Bologna, 1976. JNO, Il gastronomo educato, Venezia, 1950. L. VERONELLI, Alla ricerca dei Brief bibliography R. DI CORATO, 451 formaggi d’Italia, Mi- formaggi contadini, Milano, 1972. lano, 1977. M. DI MAJO, I formaggi delle L. VERONELLI, L’aristocrazia dei M. ALBERTINI, I formaggi, Firenze, 1971. Alpi, Torino, 1977. J.P. GALLOIS, Il libro formaggi, Milano, 1972. M. PAREN- ANDROUET, Guide du fromage, Paris, 1971. d’oro dei formaggi, Milano, 1979. L.IM- TI, De arte resecandi casei, L’arcere, Cu- L. BIONDI, 100 piatti al formaggio, Bologna, BRIANI, Il formaggio a tavola ed in cucina, neo, 1991. M. PARENTI, Alla ricerca del for- 1966. J. BONNET, Fetes: des idées pour votre Milano, 1975. G. MAFFIOLI, Guida ai for- maggio perduto, L’arcere, Cuneo, 1997. he cut is the clean separation T of the body of a cheese, wi- the cut thout chipping or tearing of the walls. This occurs when the resi- stance of the cheese is minute with respect to the cutting force. and the texture The blade needs to be thin enough 14 15 so as not to create cracking or se- paration due to compression. of cheese Depending on the consistency “friction”, which happens when of the dairy cheese, a particular bla- cutting a slice of meat or salami. de is necessary. Furthermore, due Cutting cheese means only to the fact that fibers of cheese are one cut, from top to bottom. different to those of meat, they do not create a resistance causing ach cheese requires a pre- E cise cutting ritual. Shape, every consistency and size determine specific cutting requirements for 1 each type of cheese and therefore the type of instrument to be used. cheese The following is a list of our 16 17 specialized cheese knives. 1. the bow has its own knife 2. the compact 3. the spatula 4. the trapezium 5. the soft cheese 6. the hard cheese 23 4 5 6 7 7. the semi-hard cheese trated on the handle and only in ca- ses of extreme resistance should the hard-cheese knife the other hand be used, by pressing on the back of the blade. Pay atten- tion! In order to avoid a fraying of Which cheese to cut with this in order to overcome the resistance the cheese, the cut must be clean knife: matured asiago, hard bra, due to the consistency of the che- and precise without any sliding , , torna stravecchio, ese. A suitable knife must have a movement. The knife must pe- , and all cheeses thin blade but it must be wide and 18 19 netrate the cheese perpendicular to with similar characteristics. How strong enough to support the force the resting plane and must cut from to use this knife: cutting hard of the cut and cleanly separate the top to bottom with a uniform cheeses necessitates a certain force cheese. The force must be concen- pressure. The cut must be well balanced and the knife must penetrate perfectly horizontal, to avoid breaking the cheese at the end of the cut. the knife is lightly curved in the the semi-hard cheese knife center, almost like a wedge. This knife can be transformed into a type of saw with a short Which cheese to cut with this shaped to cut without causing oblique movement when the knife: fontina, , fresh chipping or tearing of the cheese, crust is very resistant. torna, Swiss cheese, young asia- which occurs when the blade is This allows the cutter to use a go, Sicialian canistrato and all too wide and thick. 20 21 uniform pressure to avoid any similar cheeses. How to use this The blade must also be able to chipping of the underlying parts. knife: the semi-hard consistency cut the crust which is generally The pressure applied must be of the dairy cheese requires a more consistent than the internal modest and perpendicular to the light, easy to handle knife, part of the cheese. This is why resting plane, to avoid any in- opportune flexion. When a cheese is extremely soft, the soft cheese knife one wishes to avoid it sticking to the blade, thus horribly disfigu- ring the cheese. I will let you in Which cheese to cut with this causing no chipping or cracking. on a little secret: moisten the bla- knife: , , The cutter must cut decisively de with damp cloth. This reduces robiole, the quartiolo cheeses of with an initial movement inclined friction and facilitates the sliding the Val Camonica, murianengo, towards the resting plane, crea- 22 23 of the blade on a soft cheese. panerone and all similar types of ting a fulcrum on the end of the cheese. How to use this knife: knife, moving the rest of the blade the blade for soft cheeses must cut perpendicular to the resting plane, cleanly without sticking, thus in a rotating or circular sense. res. The point needs to be placed the compact knife uniformly and strongly onto the crust, pressing down on the blade the cheese falls away easily. Which cheese to cut with this cheeses of the same characteri- knife: this knife is generally used stics. How to use this knife: this for cheeses which are very deep knife could substitute excellently and round in form for example those knives with wedged, hoo- 24 25 parmigiano, mature , fio- ked or clawed blades, generally re sardo, Sicilian , ma- used for cutting and opening hard ture castelmagno, gavoi and other compact, grainy or chalky textu- diameter. It is also used to cut the trapezium knife pieces with solid formes. The pressure applied by the cutter is concentrated on the handle and Which cheese to cut with this same characteristics. How to use in a vertical direction in respect knife: Swiss cheese, provolone, this knife: this substitutes bell, to the resting plane. This will canestrato from Puglia, fossa spade and horn shaped knives cleanly cut the cheese, perfectly cheese from Sogliano soft pe- and is used for Swiss cheese. It 26 27 perpendicular to the crust accor- corino and other types of hard cuts hard and semi-hard cheeses, ding to Monsieur Jean Francois and semi-hard cheese with the relatively high and large in Guillontin. the spatula knife

Which cheese to cut with this flexible and functions better knife: all cheeses soft enough to when spreading very soft dairy spread. How to use this knife: cheeses. It is thin enough cut any The spatula with a steel blade, type of cheese without chipping 28 29 although less refined than those eventhough it doesn’t have a antique knives with a bone or i- distinct cutting edge. vory blade, is softer and more cheese to add more flavour to a fresh tometta or a still hot the bow knife modest dish. Sometimes, instead with this simple but ingenious of using a simple string, a more device, other than being an an- sophisticated device was inven- cient and almost sacrificial ritual, Which cheese to cut with this was fixed to two small wooden ted by some shepard. It was a it induces the maître coupeur to knife: , , soft pegs, and it was generally used bow formed by using flexible take more care: more flavour is taleggio, bossolasco, fresh goat to cut a slice. This tool was also wood (willow, hazel, plum or emanated and one can savour its cheeses, crescenza, Roman ricot- used during big feasts to cut 30 31 rush), held taut by a string, it fragrances to the full. ta, piacentina, seiras, fresh tomi- butter, fresh tometta or sieras allowed a more sophisticated ni e primo sale and all types of type of cut, adding a certain style cheese with similar characte- to a humble meal. I had the idea ristics. How to use this knife: of proposing this in its original not very long ago, in the poorer form (unknown to many) to pay farm kitchens of southern Italy, homage to farming traditions. It polenta was the main meal. A is widely used by many people piece of string, hemp or intestine, who are convinced that cutting a Art M. Bonini Utility* Consulenza Ph. A. Coppitz Print La Nuova Grafica Fiorentina

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