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Trine Mjølhus Jacobsen Master's BACKPACKER HOTSPOTS Cultural and social change of place and identity A study from Taganga, Colombia Trine Mjølhus Jacobsen Master’s Thesis in Social Geography Department of Geography University of Bergen February 2010 Homenaje a un Boga Tagangero […]Navega Julio Matos, viejo boga de la mar navegante de estrellas, Tagangero en alta mar. Tendiendo el trasmayo la historia te ve pasar, hunde el canalete que tu voz la escucharán todos tus nietos, ahora inquietos por el mundo que están viendo tu eres cierto, por tus ojos, por tu risa, por tus cuentos. Rema junto a las estrellas, tu si que haces parte de ellas, viejo boga que navega el firmamento […] (Rolando Sanchez, Taganga) (Homage for a Boga Tagangero) Sail Julio Matos, old boga 1of the ocean you who sail the stars, Tagangero in open sea. Putting out the trasmayo 2, the history will see you pass by sinking the paddle. Your voice is heard by all your grandchildren, they are nervous for the world they see. You are true, true are your eyes, your smile, your tales. Row beside the stars, you who truly belong to them, Old boga who sails the sky of stars 1 Boga: The fisherman sitting at the end of and steering the canoe. 2 Trasmayo: A special fishing net used by local fishermen in Taganga. Table of contents List of figures.......................................................................................................................................... i Abstract..................................................................................................................................................ii Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................iii Chapter 1 Introduction ........................................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Backpacker tourism ................................................................................................................... 2 1.2 Discussion of key concepts........................................................................................................ 4 1.3 Research Question ..................................................................................................................... 6 Chapter 2 Theory ................................................................................................................................. 10 2.1 Culture and identity.................................................................................................................. 11 2.2 Local belonging and sense of place ......................................................................................... 12 2.3 Power relations in tourism and ‘the others’ ............................................................................. 14 2.4 Modern ideals and post-modern practises................................................................................ 15 2.5 A quest for authenticity............................................................................................................ 17 2.5.1 Staged authenticity in tourism ........................................................................................ 19 2.6 Deterritorialization and reterritorialization of culture and the tourist space............................ 21 2.7 The reverse of the medal - implications of tourism ................................................................. 24 Chapter 3 Colombia and Taganga........................................................................................................ 26 3.1 Colombia.................................................................................................................................. 26 3.1.1 Tourism in Colombia; “The only risk is wanting to stay”.............................................. 28 3.1.2 The political and social situation in Colombia ............................................................... 29 3.2 “Taganga: the fisherman village” ............................................................................................ 32 3.2.1 Tourism in the periphery................................................................................................. 34 3.2.2 “Malecón Taganga” ........................................................................................................ 36 3.2.3 Social and administrative organization in Taganga........................................................ 38 3.2.4 “Tagangero Tagangero” – local identity......................................................................... 40 Chapter 4 Method ................................................................................................................................ 43 4.1 Exploring senses of place – humanistic geography, existentialism and phenomenology ....... 44 4.2 Interpretation of the life of others: double hermeneutics and constructivism ......................... 46 4.3 Statuses and roles in the field work ......................................................................................... 47 4.3.1 Backpacker/tourist .......................................................................................................... 48 4.3.2 Researcher and long term resident.................................................................................. 49 4.3.3 Artisan............................................................................................................................. 50 4.3.4 Dilemmas regarding roles and statuses........................................................................... 52 4.4 Doing research in Taganga ...................................................................................................... 53 4.4.1 Interview situations......................................................................................................... 54 4.4.2 Interviews with travellers and artisans............................................................................ 56 4.4.3 Interviews with local residents........................................................................................ 57 4.4.4 Observation..................................................................................................................... 58 4.4.5 Personal Communication................................................................................................ 58 4.5 Ethical guidelines..................................................................................................................... 59 4.6 Methodological reflections and considerations ....................................................................... 61 4.6.1 Recording data ................................................................................................................ 62 4.6.2 Language barriers............................................................................................................ 62 Chapter 5 Patterns and differences of meaning ................................................................................... 64 5.1 Social meetings or exploitation?.............................................................................................. 65 5.2 From traditions and values to ‘easy money’: The belief and concept of changes in Taganga 71 5.2.1 The intrusion of ‘outsiders’, drugs and modernity.......................................................... 71 5.2.2 Loss of tradition and local identity ................................................................................. 73 5.3 The seafront project: developing or destroying Taganga?....................................................... 75 5.4 Constraints and opportunities: Different understandings of the place..................................... 78 5.4.1 Backpackers paradise...................................................................................................... 79 5.4.2 “When you’re breaking the traditions is when you’re breaking up the village” ............ 81 5.4.3 Future challenges ............................................................................................................ 84 Chapter 6 Analysing the senses of place in Taganga........................................................................... 87 6.1 A small picturesque fishing village?........................................................................................ 87 6.2 Linking local identities to a deterritorialized Colombian identity........................................... 90 6.3 Capturing the cultures of Taganga........................................................................................... 91 6.4 Capturing the identities in Taganga ......................................................................................... 94 6.5 The bilateral image of the traveller.......................................................................................... 95 6.6 Taganga as a meaningful place................................................................................................ 97 6.6.1 Taganga as a fisherman village....................................................................................... 97 6.6.2 Taganga as a backpacker destination.............................................................................. 99 6.7 A hotspot in the future?.......................................................................................................... 100 Chapter 7 Conclusion........................................................................................................................
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