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“I really looked forward to breathing in the soft sea breeze, feeling the freshness of the woods, relishing Galician culture and cuisine, and soaking in its traditions and legends. I was convinced that this destination kept alluring secrets that, when unveiled, would prove to be beyond all my expectations.” I was very hesitant about my fi rst motorbike trip. I had After some days of holidays, I fi nally set for the already been on some trips as co-rider, but they were desired trip. I had the intention to ride through this always shorter in distance and in time. Finally, having region soaking in its heritage, landscapes, natural serviced my brand new motorbike, checked the main spaces, stories, legends and facts. Ever-changing and elements (tyres, chain, lights, oil, coolant) and heard appealing, Galicia offered me the Cantabrian sea, the expert advice, I had to choose the route for my initiation Atlantic ocean, river banks, valleys, hills and mountains. as a rider. This was no easy decision: I wanted to enjoy So I checked the tyre pressure, hung my denim jacket my motorbike riding but also to fi nd a place that offered and put on my motorcycle suit, wearing my protective something beyond roads. There is no doubt that Galicia gear for the fi rst time. I put away my high heels and was a good choice. Its diverse, complex landscapes stepped into my beautiful motorcycle boots, ready to allowed me to enjoy some genuine riding, with winding roll on the fantastic Galician land. roads, ups and downs, and the odd straight stretches. I felt free and enjoyed the grip of the motorbike on the All of this, surrounded by amazing landscapes both bends of Galician roads. Looking back, I was pleasantly in the mainland and on the coast. Having refl ected surprised that these times I spent riding my motorbike about all this, I had no doubt that Galicia would be my have led to moments of high adrenaline but also destination. refl ection, making this route an unmatched experience. The good vibes and feeling of freedom were a constant throughout my journey on two wheels. I could get everywhere and anywhere. Places I had already heard about, and places that I didn’t know anything about and were completely surprising. But reality exceeds anything I can say. You must experience it. You must experience Galicia, experience the Galifornia route. I was left wanting more! To sum up, this is an experience I heartily recommend to anyone, boys and girls, whether you are bikers or you’re thinking about it. If this is the case, here’s my advice: go ahead, prepare adequately and experience the Galifornia route, enjoying the pleasure of positive vibes. Verín Miradoiro do Boqueiriño Gundivós Belesar A Pobra de Trives Miradoiro da Cividade Praia da Cova Monforte de Lemos ROUTE 1 AUTUMN/SUMMER MACIZO CENTRAL – gorge. Right below it, a Medieval bridge part of the village, with views over the Castle about all the generations that had walked RIBEIRA SACRA crosses the river. of O Bolo. This castle dating back to the 12th those lands; of lovers, wars and fresh air. century used to belong to the Counts of Lemos Staying in a Parador next to a beautiful fortress Stationed among terraces and carved directly Having seen this masterpiece of nature and in the rock, this sanctuary was built to honour and was later used as a school, prison and breathed in some pure air, I soon arrived in (one of the best-preserved strongholds in even fairground. Galicia) has been the most amazing experience the statue of the Virgin found in a nearby cave. Trives, with its Roman bridge over the Bibei and the best gift I have ever received. It is named after the eremites that used to seek The road kept going up and getting closer river. solitude in this faraway location. and closer to Manzaneda ski resort (1778 m In A Pobra de Trives, I couldn’t resist the I woke up really early that day, since I wanted high), where Galician woods touch the sky. It’s to make the most of my great biking adventure temptation to try its famous bica, since the a shame this area was not covered by snow, great fair was taking place (last Sunday of across the legendary Ribeira Sacra, starting since that is an amazing sight, according to o in Verín. I departed from the Parador, July). This sweet sponge cake is a must-try. the locals. In my descent from Cabeza de Carnival is another big celebration in Trives, which has great views over the castle and its Manzaneda, I went to the Souto de Rozabales quiet valley and vineyards. And the best way with many traditions that di er from one to take a picture of this natural monument, village to another, proving the ethnographic to start my day was by visiting a traditional particularly of the famous, ancient chestnut of wine cellar, “Boo Rivero”, where I bought an diversity of this region. In A Pobra, the streets Pumbariños, very well preserved and anked are taken by the “folións” that sing and dance excellent wine with Monterrei Designation of by all his long-standing relatives. He told me Origin. When I was leaving, they told me how to the beat of the bass drums, with the most to get to a traditional wine press I had already According to the legend, a group of little heard about in Verín. shepherds decided to explore the cave after realising that the cattle that grazed there was Through breath-taking landscapes near the healed. Inside it they found a statue of the reservoirs of Portas and O Bao, I rode on a Virgin holding Baby Jesus in her arms, and winding road, a true biker’s route, towards the they built a chapel to house the statue in that mountains in Ourense. very spot. Centuries later, the same happened Near the reservoir of O Bao and almost to a bishop who was ill and recovered his without realising, I got to a quiet corner worth health immediately after seeing the icon. He admiring, a place of great natural beauty right ordered to build the sanctuary we can see in the narrow valley carved by the Bibei river, today. Since then, the Virgin stands at the in O Bolo. I didn’t hesitate to stop and visit main altar and is worshipped in Ourense due a must-see there: the majestic Sanctuary of to her famous miracles. Nosa Señora das Ermidas, crowning a high Following the Via Crucis, I got to the highest natural rock at the bottom of the Bibey river Sacra, which awaited me on the other side. viewpoint known as Los Balcones de Madrid. I headed for the Monastery of Santo Estebo Inside the castle, an ethnographic centre In Rectoral de Gundivós, a pottery restored by de Ribas de Miño, with stunning views over recreates life as it was back in those times. the last potter remaining, Elías showed me his Belesar Reservoir. Legend has it that this castle was inhabited interpretation centre and his pottery pieces, While I said goodbye to this area, I thought of by a powerful count who had three beautiful the result of this thousand-year-old traditional my nal stop on this busy, hot day: Monforte marriageable daughters. Another count, also craft. He also o ered me a great food tasting. de Lemos, the capital of the Ribeira Sacra, rich and noble, asked for the hand of one of I bought the typical “cunca” to drink wine awaited me by the Cabe River with its art and them. The father asked, “Cal delas?” (“Which from his store, since I didn’t have room for the monuments. I spent the night at the Parador, one?”), and so the place became known as “queimada” implement from Gundivós in my near the Castle of Monforte de Lemos, having Castro Cal-delas. motorcycle. visited the Monastery of Nosa Señora da important days being “jueves de comadres” From there, I rode down a steep, exciting slope Antiga (now a school) and the Wine Museum. and “viernes de compadres.” Before my and crossed the Sil River while seeing one departure, I couldn’t help buying another bica of the catamarans sail away from the dock Where to stop: Cabeza de Manzaneda, to make my trip even sweeter and not to lose of Doade. Already in the province of Lugo, Castro Caldelas, Rectoral de Gundivós and strength. The clock bells wee chiming when I the road started steeply going up among Monforte de Lemos. left the crowds behind. viewpoints and renowned wineries such as What to visit: Sanctuary das Ermidas, I crossed the beautiful protected landscape Regina Viarum or Algueira. There, exhausted Pottery of Gundivós, Monastery of Santo of Val do río Navea, with its tiny one-arch as I was, I made short work of a delicious meal Estebo de Ribas de Miño, Castle of the Counts Roman bridge, Ponte Navea. On my right, paired with excellent wines from the Ribeira of Lemos and Museum of Nosa Señora da below the great chestnut forest of San Xoan Sacra. Antiga. de Río, I saw some milestones leading me to I was eager to get to the terraces hanging Knowing that I would go through Ferreira de Castro Caldelas. There, an imposing fortress from the slopes, but Caldeiras was the rst Pantón, I couldn’t have missed the Cistercian What to see: Castle and village of O Bolo, built more than 600 years ago rises from atop viewpoint to leave me open-mouthed.

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