“I really looked forward to breathing in the soft sea breeze, feeling the freshness of the woods, relishing Galician culture and cuisine, and soaking in its traditions and legends. I was convinced that this destination kept alluring secrets that, when unveiled, would prove to be beyond all my expectations.” I was very hesitant about my fi rst motorbike trip. I had After some days of holidays, I fi nally set for the already been on some trips as co-rider, but they were desired trip. I had the intention to ride through this always shorter in distance and in time. Finally, having region soaking in its heritage, landscapes, natural serviced my brand new motorbike, checked the main spaces, stories, legends and facts. Ever-changing and elements (tyres, chain, lights, oil, coolant) and heard appealing, offered me the , the expert advice, I had to choose the route for my initiation Atlantic ocean, river banks, valleys, hills and mountains. as a rider. This was no easy decision: I wanted to enjoy So I checked the tyre pressure, hung my denim jacket my motorbike riding but also to fi nd a place that offered and put on my motorcycle suit, wearing my protective something beyond roads. There is no doubt that Galicia gear for the fi rst time. I put away my high heels and was a good choice. Its diverse, complex landscapes stepped into my beautiful motorcycle boots, ready to allowed me to enjoy some genuine riding, with winding roll on the fantastic Galician land. roads, ups and downs, and the odd straight stretches. I felt free and enjoyed the grip of the motorbike on the All of this, surrounded by amazing landscapes both bends of Galician roads. Looking back, I was pleasantly in the mainland and on the coast. Having refl ected surprised that these times I spent riding my motorbike about all this, I had no doubt that Galicia would be my have led to moments of high adrenaline but also destination. refl ection, making this route an unmatched experience. The good vibes and feeling of freedom were a constant throughout my journey on two wheels. I could get everywhere and anywhere. Places I had already heard about, and places that I didn’t know anything about and were completely surprising. But reality exceeds anything I can say. You must experience it. You must experience Galicia, experience the Galifornia route. I was left wanting more! To sum up, this is an experience I heartily recommend to anyone, boys and girls, whether you are bikers or you’re thinking about it. If this is the case, here’s my advice: go ahead, prepare adequately and experience the Galifornia route, enjoying the pleasure of positive vibes. Verín Miradoiro do Boqueiriño Gundivós Belesar

A Pobra de Trives Miradoiro da Cividade Praia da Cova ROUTE 1 AUTUMN/SUMMER

MACIZO CENTRAL – gorge. Right below it, a Medieval bridge part of the village, with views over the Castle about all the generations that had walked RIBEIRA SACRA crosses the river. of . This castle dating back to the 12th those lands; of lovers, wars and fresh air. century used to belong to the Counts of Lemos Staying in a next to a beautiful fortress Stationed among terraces and carved directly Having seen this masterpiece of nature and in the rock, this sanctuary was built to honour and was later used as a school, prison and breathed in some pure air, I soon arrived in (one of the best-preserved strongholds in even fairground. Galicia) has been the most amazing experience the statue of the Virgin found in a nearby cave. Trives, with its Roman bridge over the Bibei and the best gift I have ever received. It is named after the eremites that used to seek The road kept going up and getting closer river. solitude in this faraway location. and closer to ski resort (1778 m In A Pobra de Trives, I couldn’t resist the I woke up really early that day, since I wanted high), where Galician woods touch the sky. It’s to make the most of my great biking adventure temptation to try its famous bica, since the a shame this area was not covered by snow, great fair was taking place (last Sunday of across the legendary Ribeira Sacra, starting since that is an amazing sight, according to o in Verín. I departed from the Parador, July). This sweet sponge cake is a must-try. the locals. In my descent from Cabeza de is another big celebration in Trives, which has great views over the castle and its Manzaneda, I went to the Souto de Rozabales quiet valley and vineyards. And the best way with many traditions that di er from one to take a picture of this natural monument, village to another, proving the ethnographic to start my day was by visiting a traditional particularly of the famous, ancient chestnut of wine cellar, “Boo Rivero”, where I bought an diversity of this region. In A Pobra, the streets Pumbariños, very well preserved and  anked are taken by the “folións” that sing and dance excellent wine with Designation of by all his long-standing relatives. He told me Origin. When I was leaving, they told me how to the beat of the bass drums, with the most to get to a traditional wine press I had already According to the legend, a group of little heard about in Verín. shepherds decided to explore the cave after realising that the cattle that grazed there was Through breath-taking landscapes near the healed. Inside it they found a statue of the reservoirs of Portas and O Bao, I rode on a Virgin holding Baby Jesus in her arms, and winding road, a true biker’s route, towards the they built a chapel to house the statue in that mountains in . very spot. Centuries later, the same happened Near the reservoir of O Bao and almost to a bishop who was ill and recovered his without realising, I got to a quiet corner worth health immediately after seeing the icon. He admiring, a place of great natural beauty right ordered to build the sanctuary we can see in the narrow valley carved by the Bibei river, today. Since then, the Virgin stands at the in O Bolo. I didn’t hesitate to stop and visit main altar and is worshipped in Ourense due a must-see there: the majestic Sanctuary of to her famous miracles. Nosa Señora das Ermidas, crowning a high Following the Via Crucis, I got to the highest natural rock at the bottom of the Bibey river Sacra, which awaited me on the other side. viewpoint known as Los Balcones de Madrid. I headed for the Monastery of Santo Estebo Inside the castle, an ethnographic centre In Rectoral de Gundivós, a pottery restored by de Ribas de Miño, with stunning views over recreates life as it was back in those times. the last potter remaining, Elías showed me his Belesar Reservoir. Legend has it that this castle was inhabited interpretation centre and his pottery pieces, While I said goodbye to this area, I thought of by a powerful count who had three beautiful the result of this thousand-year-old traditional my  nal stop on this busy, hot day: Monforte marriageable daughters. Another count, also craft. He also o ered me a great food tasting. de Lemos, the capital of the Ribeira Sacra, rich and noble, asked for the hand of one of I bought the typical “cunca” to drink wine awaited me by the Cabe River with its art and them. The father asked, “Cal delas?” (“Which from his store, since I didn’t have room for the monuments. I spent the night at the Parador, one?”), and so the place became known as “queimada” implement from Gundivós in my near the Castle of Monforte de Lemos, having Castro Cal-delas. motorcycle. visited the Monastery of Nosa Señora da important days being “jueves de comadres” From there, I rode down a steep, exciting slope Antiga (now a school) and the Wine Museum. and “viernes de compadres.” Before my and crossed the Sil River while seeing one departure, I couldn’t help buying another bica of the catamarans sail away from the dock Where to stop: Cabeza de Manzaneda, to make my trip even sweeter and not to lose of Doade. Already in the province of , , Rectoral de Gundivós and strength. The clock bells wee chiming when I the road started steeply going up among Monforte de Lemos. left the crowds behind. viewpoints and renowned wineries such as What to visit: Sanctuary das Ermidas, I crossed the beautiful protected landscape Regina Viarum or Algueira. There, exhausted Pottery of Gundivós, Monastery of Santo of Val do río Navea, with its tiny one-arch as I was, I made short work of a delicious meal Estebo de Ribas de Miño, Castle of the Counts Roman bridge, Ponte Navea. On my right, paired with excellent wines from the Ribeira of Lemos and Museum of Nosa Señora da below the great chestnut forest of San Xoan Sacra. Antiga. de Río, I saw some milestones leading me to I was eager to get to the terraces hanging Knowing that I would go through Ferreira de Castro Caldelas. There, an imposing fortress from the slopes, but Caldeiras was the  rst Pantón, I couldn’t have missed the Cistercian What to see: Castle and village of O Bolo, built more than 600 years ago rises from atop viewpoint to leave me open-mouthed. From Monastery of Madres Bernardas de Santa As Cadeiras viewpoint, Monastery of Santa the village, o ering spectacular views over some 600 metres above the river, I admired María. Curiously enough, this is the only María de Ferreira, A Cova beach and viewpoint, the Sil Valley and guarding the entrance to the river bank in the Ourense side, the great monastery in Galicia that has always been Belesar Reservoir. the beautiful natural landscapes of the Ribeira gorge, the countless vineyards and the used as a monastery since it was created, Where to eat: A Pobra de Trives, Castro and still is. Their delicious sweets would Caldelas. accompany me for the rest of my journey. Where to stay: Monforte. Fascinated, I kept riding among vineyards, monasteries and convents until I reached the river beach of A Cova, on the banks of the Miño completed stage - Monforte de Lemos River, which “takes the credit but doesn’t take the water”, unlike the Sil River I left behind. I was amazed to see how this river bends, creating a spectacular meander around Cabo sello o cial do Mundo. The more I rode on, the more I wanted to see. Monforte de Lemos Samos Piornedo AUTUMN Pazo de Tor O Cebreiro ROUTE 2

MONFORTE - O to live during the Early Modern Period. The church made of marble in . According to the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem), seems COUREL - ANCARES famous writer and poet Uxío Novoneira, born legend, this church was built by the devil in just to indicate that the church was built thanks to in O Courel and a friend of the family, stayed in one day. The same is said about many other this order. From the Parador in Monforte, I went on a its guestroom on many occasions. He wrote, buildings in Galicia whose origins are lost in short walk around the Monumental Ensemble A few kilometres away, I visited the remains “Courel dos tesos cumes que ollan de lonxe”, or time and which were also built in short periods of the thermal resort of Ferrería do Incio, of San Vicente do Pino, where I found some “Courel of the high peaks looking on from afar.” of time, not by the devil, but by the Moors. pilgrims walking the Winter Way. I went up to surrounded by mountains some 800 or 900 the keep to take a picture of the views over the That would be my destination, the mountain metres high. There are plenty of iron seams Lemos Valley and then I set course for the Pazo ranges of O Courel and ! in these mountains, which have been used Museo de Tor. I decided to drop by , entrance hall to for iron extraction for thousands of years. The plentiful trees and thick woods in this area This ethnographic museum is renowned for O Courel, with its round hills, pastures and chestnut groves. The church of Hospital do also supplied raw materials to transform wood being one of the best examples of country into charcoal, used to sieve iron shavings and palace architecture in the south of Lugo and Incio is unique not only in Galicia but also in most of Western Europe. The material used to forge new tools. There used to be a great one of the best preserved in Galicia. Standing forge (“ferrería”) here, hence the name Ferrería on the highest part of the valley, this building in its construction, local bluish marble from a nearby quarry, makes it the only Romanesque do Incio and some other place names in the tells us about the way Galician nobility used surroundings that allude to this trade. The steep slopes of these valleys made it possible for water coming from higher regions to permeate the mountain and reach Curiously enough, the word “hospital” is the abundant iron seams. This created the found in various place names around Galicia a ferruginous mineral waters that have become reference to the locations of old hostelries and famous and attracted attention to this area. hospitals for pilgrims on their way to . This incredible architectural ensemble, as In 1982, the Great Thermal Resort was built. impressive as its natural surroundings (such A Baroque chapel still stands in the premises. as the great chestnut by the church), includes Unfortunately, this place, as many other a fortress, a hostelry, a hospital and a church, thermal resorts in Galicia, fell into disuse and since it used to welcome pilgrims. abandonment. I noticed the Maltese cross on the tympanum. There is no doubt that O Courel is Galicia’s great This cross, symbol of the Order of Knights of green reserve, with such a diverse historical and artistic heritage. so I stopped to regain some strength in the Do Sesto, near Fonte do Marelo, I discovered highest part of O Cebreiro, with views over that both people and domestic animals lived the province of León, as if I was another in them. I recommend the views over this area pilgrim. Having visited the Pre-Romanesque from the Hermitage of San Lorenzo. From this church of Santa María a Real de O Cebreiro, spot, a path leads to the highest peak in the I dropped by a restaurant to try the local Ancares in the side of Lugo, Mustallar (1935 products, both poultry and cured meats. metres high). Bear tracks have been spotted While I drank, I thought of the miracle that, here, since brown bears go through Os Ancares, according to legend, happened in the church: their last stronghold in Galicia. while a sceptical priest (now buried there) was My day ended with a  awless background: a preaching, the wine turned into blood and the perfect place to have dinner amid mountains, bread turned into Christ’s  esh. They say that Caserío de Meiroi. the Last Supper’s Chalice is here and that it was brought by one of the Knights of the Holy Grail. In A Proba, the capital of Navia de Suarna, I  nished this stage of the route looking at the Samos, with its typical slate-roofed houses, is houses are joined by passages, almost creating This is a true symbol of Galicia, appearing in the centre of the coat of arms of this autonomous Medieval one-arch bridge crossing the Navia home to one of the most important religious corridors along the stone-paved streets. There River, famous for its trouts. centres in Galicia, the Benedictine Monastery of is another ethnographic gem nearby, the Castro region. The “Holy Grail”, the chalice and the San Xulián de Samos. I was really impressed by da Torre de Sobredo, one of the best preserved paten, Romanesque gems, are kept in a display the strange horizontality of the church’s facade, castros in the area. cabinet in the church, together with a reliquary Where to stop: Samos, Seoane do Courel, O and its staircase looked familiar, since it was The natural beauty of the landscapes invited donated by the Catholic Monarchs. Cebreiro, A Proba de Navia de Suarna. inspired by that of the Cathedral of Santiago. me to wander in the forests and trekking routes Do not leave without tasting the creamy cheese What to visit: Pazo de Tor, Seceda, Monastery Behind the monastery, I found a Mozarab such as the one named “Val das Mouras”, near from O Cebreiro, with Designation of Origin, of San Xulian de Samos, Ethnographic Museum chapel which is known as “la capilla del Ciprés” Ferrería Vella, by the banks of the Lor River. This with some local honey. of Ferrería de Seoane, Piornedo. due to the 27-metre-high cypress next to it. is something I will de nitely do the next time I I then entered the wild, fascinating territory Many pilgrims walking the French Way come to What to see: Church of San Pedro Fiz in come to O Courel. of Os Ancares, which, together with O Courel, Hospital do Incio, health resort in Ferrería do take a rest and admire one of the two cloisters makes up the biggest natural space in Galicia. of this Monastery, the biggest cloister in Spain. I also visited Seoane, one of the main localities Incio, Church of Santa María a Real in O Cebreiro, in O Courel, and possibly the most dynamic It is also a Biosphere Reserve in both Galicia Castle of Doiras, Museo Casa do Sesto. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to taste the local and Castilla y León. In the side belonging to the one. The ethnographical museum of Ferrería Where to eat: Pedra ta do Cebreiro. trouts and eels. Not feeling very hungry, I could de Seoane is of great interest. This smithy , Os Ancares are made up of only have a nibble in a café next to the Oribio was restored in 1808 to forge weapons to be little valleys with towns and villages hanging Where to stay: A Proba de Navia de Suarna. River while I looked at the trouts in the water. from peaks 2000 metres high. wielded against the French. Nature lovers must completed stage - Navia de Suarna I could have stopped in any of the villages also take the Devesa de Rogueira route, famous The route took me to an unmatched natural I passed by, but the one de nitely worth for its “Fonte do Cervo”, very distinct because setting atop a hill crowned by the impregnable being walked is Seceda, named a Typical two streams of water come from it, one of Castle of Doiras. Village, Ethnographic Ensemble and Tourist them ferruginous, the other calcareous, and Once in Piornedo, I was surprised by the sello o cial Attraction by the Galician government after its they never mix. ancestral circular dwellings with straw roofs, restoration. The cantilevers and windowsills But man doesn’t live by landscapes alone, called “.” At the Palloza Museo Casa of its houses are admirable, and some of the Navia de Suarna Mondoñedo Praia das Catedrais

Meira - Nacimiento do Río Miño ROUTE 3 AUTUMN/SUMMER

ANCARES – MARIÑA species and classed as a Special Area of waters, because it’s mine.”) Hence the name. colonnades, and a monument to Álvaro LUCENSE Conservation. It is one of the most important It looks as if this river of stones sprouted Cunqueiro. Moving on, I got to Fonte Vella and, beech reserves in south-western Europe, and behind the cathedral, I could see the Council After having some delicious octopus in A from the line of wind turbines, which marks its golden hues in the autumn were worthy the watershed. When rain falls on the south Seminary of Santa Catalina. Proba de Navia, I immediately resumed my of a picture. way to discover the famous spot where the side, it  ows towards the Miño and into the The Barrio dos Muíños is further on, with its Miño River rises. I then headed north and Apart from a great variety of trees and Atlantic, but when it falls on the other side, it traditional architecture, and bearing this name visited the most iconic places on my way to waterfalls, the forest hides several abandoned  ows to the Eo River and heads north to the the Cantabrian Sea. houses and hórreos, bridges, old chestnut Cantabrian Sea. drying huts, and some remarkable mills whose Leaving Os Ancares and its mountains behind, Located in a beautiful farming valley, architecture was adapted to the mountainous Mondoñedo welcomed me next. This town I crossed thick woods and countless streams. surroundings. There is no doubt that autumn is one of the used to be the capital of one of the seven best seasons to enjoy these beautiful settings. On my way, I went through to visit provinces that made up Galicia until 1833. Pedregal de Irimia. I was impressed by the In Fonteo, by the road and underneath an I started my visit of its alluring historical 700-metre-long river of stones, which I centre at the boulevard, with the Sanctuary ancient chestnut, I discovered the spot where followed up while hearing the sound of the the waters of Serra do Mirador start  owing. of Nosa Señora dos Remedios, patron saint due to the various mills in the area, which are waters rising between them. This is the source of Mondoñedo, and the Hospital de San Further on, they become the Eo River, famous of the Miño River, the widest river in Galicia. not in use but have been recently restored. The salmon river which I would see again later in Pablo, built to give shelter to poor people and most remarkable one is the beautiful fountain How would this river know that he would end pilgrims. my journey. up  owing into the Atlantic Ocean, 350 km of Os Pelamios, with four water streams. From here, I could see A Marronda, an away from here, after crossing the provinces of The Basilica-Cathedral of La Asunción, As it turns out, the town was getting ready for impressive ancient forest populated by local Lugo, Ourense and ? together with the Co-cathedral of , is one the Feria de San Lucas (18th October), one of of the episcopal sees of the Mondoñedo-Ferrol The legend goes that, many years ago, the the most renowned horse and mule shows in diocese. It’s known as “the kneeling cathedral” the area, with celebrations lasting for  ve days. monks at the nearby Monastery of Santa due to its perfect proportion and short height. María de Meira tried to collect some taxes Inside it, it is surprising to see how the light I then got to the Medieval Ponte do from a woman named Irimia, who was said shines with countless colours when going Pasatempo. When Leonor de Castro, marshal to be a witch. She refused and threw several through the rose window on its facade. Pardo de Cela’s wife, came back from Castile stones at them, which started growing until with the pardon for her husband signed by they reached their current size, while she said, Near this building, at the main square, I also the Catholic Monarchs, she was held by the “Nunca probaredes as augas deste río, porque found the Episcopal Palace, the old town bishop’s canons at this bridge. Sadly, she didn’t é miño.” (“You shall never drink this river’s council (now a library), a beautiful ensemble make in on time to stop her husband and of traditional houses with balconies and with beaches such as Os Castros and the There is no better way to end this day than picturesque port of Rinlo, with its delicious sitting on San Roque viewpoint in Viveiro seafood rice. and watching the sun set over its estuary, the Having crossed the estuary of , near the port of Celeiro and Covas beach. The Chapel Basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo, of San Roque is a reference for seafarers, considered as the oldest cathedral in which is why the traditional song goes, “Catro Spain, and riding on winding roads among vellos mariñeiros: Boga, boga mariñeiro, imos eucalyptus trees, I got to Chavín. There, I para Viveiro, xa se ve San Roque”. (Four old admired the natural monument of Souto da seafarers, “Row, row, sailor, we’re headed for Retorta, or Chavín eucalyptus grove, with Viveiro and San Roque can already be seen.”) some of the highest and biggest eucalyptus In the historical centre of Viveiro, of Medieval trees in Europe. The biggest one in Galicia is origin, you can admire the narrow streets; the known as “avó” (grandpa), with its 67 metres Medieval gates, such as the Carlos V gate; the from being executed. Hence the name, which side of it. This coastal area is a place of towns of height and 10.5 metres of perimeter. Puente Mayor Bridge, also called Puente de la means “pass-time.” and villages, crop  elds and meadows. Walking one kilometre in this forest of giants, Misericordia; Calexa das Monxas street; and with more than 600 trees, is enough to admire the Main Square. A traditional dessert to try is Mondoñedo Don’t lose sight of the sea from Os Santos their colossal dimensions. pie, the perfect bite for pilgrims walking the Bridge, going through Fuerte de San Damián Northern Way, which runs through this town. and the Cargadoiro to the lighthouse of Illa These trees were planted in the 19th century Where to stop: Mondoñedo, Vilanova de Pancha, lapped by the turquoise water of the to drain low areas as a protective measure Lourenzá, Ribadeo, Viveiro. In Vilanova de Lourenzá, renowned for its against  oods. A Galician priest brought the beans, I visited the Monastery of San Salvador, Cantabrian Sea, in contrast with the bright What to visit: Cathedral and historical centre colours of the cli s and coastal shrub.  rst seeds from faraway lands where he had whose facade was the practice for the worked as a missionary. This invading tree of Mondoñedo, Monastery of San Salvador de Obradoiro facade at the Cathedral of Santiago. I could picture this town’s splendorous past adjusted to our climate so well that it ended Lourenzá, Ribadeo, Viveiro. At the Centro de Interpretación da Faba, you just by walking through its charming historical up spreading massively throughout the whole What to see: Fonteo, Fraga da Marronda, can learn some more about the techniques centre, full of beautiful buildings such as the Galician territory. Pedregal de Irimia, As Catedrais beach, Souto that have been used to grow this legume in Torre dos Moreno, a modernist house built da Retorta. by who made good in America and the Mariña Lucense for centuries. Where to eat: Mondoñedo. a witness of the Galician emigration to this In Ribadeo, I entered the Mariña Lucense on continent. Where to stay: Viveiro. the left bank of the estuary, with my feet on Galician soil but my eyes on and the I kept riding through the  elds of these coastal plains until I arrived at the Augasantas or As Cantabrian Sea. The Eo River acts as the border completed stage - Viveiro between those two autonomous regions. Catedrais beach. The low tide allowed me to walk on the sand of this natural monument. The Ría de Ribadeo, Oscos e Terras de Bourón It is amazing to see how the sea has shaped Natural Reserve has a great landscape and the cli s into a whole architectural ensemble sello o cial environmental value. This is the most western including arches, columns, vaults and caves. estuary, linking Galicia and Asturias by means This protected space, a part of Natura 2000 of Os Santos Bridge, with has a chapel on each Network, stretches for 15 km along the coast, Viveiro San Andres de Teixido

Cabo AUTUMN/SUMMER ROUTE 4

MARIÑA LUCENSE curious to visit that famous place that has recently not knowing that the most impressive sights were When I reached the end of the path, I was blown - ACANTILADOS appeared in so many pictures. The road got yet to come. Leaving Cariño behind, I took the away. I was 630 metres above the sea, admiring DE LOIBA - COSTA narrower and narrower,  nally turning into a track. detour to Santo Andrés de Teixido, starting my some truly impressive cli s and seeing the That peaceful place halfway between Estaca ascent to A serra da Capelada. At  rst, I was most ocean and the sea blend in the horizon. I felt so ARTABRA - FRAGAS de Bares and Cabo Ortegal was breath-taking interested in visiting the sanctuary, a place of tiny before that magni cent sight, I can’t even DO EUME no matter where I looked. I wanted to capture pilgrimage where, so the saying goes, if you don’t describe exactly how I felt. To resume my route, I started in Viveiro and that setting with a picture taken from the most go while you’re alive, you’ll go after you’re dead. Captivated by these views, I still had to visit the headed west. Soon there was green all around beautiful bench in the world. I could have stayed However, the more I rode on and saw, the more sanctuary. From this point, the road starts to me, but it wasn’t long before the sea made an there for hours, but had still a lot to do and see. impressed I was by the views. When I reached descend to a remote little village surrounded by appearance again. In the municipality of , I soon arrived at , where I was deeply the highest point, I stopped my motorbike at the cli s and vegetation where wild horses graze at I could see Arealonga beach, which gives the surprised by the amount of people on the streets. viewpoint known as Vixía de Herbeira. I parked ease. I walked down and, right in the middle of estuary of its half-moon shape. I saw The “Internationak Celtic World Festival” was there and walked down the path leading to the this spectacular setting, facing the endless and the forged iron bridge that, since 1901, replaced taking place, an event bringing together di erent sea. From the road, the 18-century sentry box powerful Atlantic Ocean, I saw the Sanctuary the ferryman service this place was named after. Celtic bands from all over the world. It’s held in can be seen. It was restored in 1803 as a part of a of Santo André de Teixido. I felt like I was in a I could admire how the Sor River  owed into the July, as I duly noted. maritime surveillance system. postcard, this was such a magical place! Also, I sea, creating one of those amazing formations Riding on, I got to Cariño, surprising name for a which are so typical and so marvelous in Galicia: village, since it means “a ection.” Towards the estuaries. end of this municipality, a road full of bends and Moving on, I had to stop at Estaca de Bares, the cli s took me to Cabo de Ortegal. In this area of place where the ocean blends together with Galicia, the capes and their slim lighthouses atop the sea. This is the northernmost point in the dramatic cli s shape a unique, genuine landscape. Peninsula, separating the Atlantic Ocean from the The surroundings kept surprising me, especially Cantabrian Sea. The lighthouse has been rising the rough sea and the famous “Aguillóns”, sharp over the cli s of this cape since the 19th century, rocky islets. and Semáforo de Bares, a nearby old surveillance I decided to take a rest in Cariño, since I was post that has now been turned into a hotel starting to feel hungry. This seafarer’s town in blending with nature, is very close. the heart of Rías Altas is the perfect place to taste I then retraced my steps towards O Barqueiro and some of the local cuisine, based on fresh products set course for Ortigueira. Less than 1 km later, from the sea. I took the detour to Loiba cli s. I was intensely Having eaten, I hopped on my motorbike again, had already been to the sanctuary, so I wouldn’t balconies. At the end of this street, I could see Amid this peculiar natural space lays the have to go after death as a soul, toad or snake. Magdalena beach and the estuary of Cedeira. Monastery of Caaveiro. I had to park my motorbike According to legend, San Andrés was sad one day, Leaving this place behind, the road went on and walk to it, but I didn’t mind: the Monastery since everyone visited Santiago but no one came along the edge of the estuary. I passed by Esteiro, was totally worth it. to his sanctuary, and God told him, “do not worry, where the Das Mestas River searched its way to In Pontedeume, I visited the Torre dos Andrés, I promise you that no one shall enter the the sea. In Valdoviño, I headed for “A Frouxeira” (now the tourist o ce), the church of Santiago, Kingdom of Heaven if they haven’t been to your beach, where I saw a group of surfers. This beach and the historical centre. But the thing I liked the sanctuary  rst. And, if they do not go when they is highly frequented by them, since it o ers very most was the amount of tapas bars in this town. are alive, they shall do so when they are dead.” good conditions for this sport. I rode on the road Wooden boards are set under the colonnades, This is how this sanctuary became a pilgrimage skirting it to get a better view of the beach itself acting as bars, and people go enjoy dinner there, site. This way still exists today, and it’s marked and of its lake. Once more, the pavement turned standing and chatting. I was really surprised to with sardines, since San Andrés was a  sherman. into a dirt track. see such a lively atmosphere. I decided to spend The tradition is to drink from the fountain with Later on, already in the mainland, I arrived at the night there. three pipes, drop a bread crumb and, if it  oats, the municipality of Ferrol. I entered this city and your wish will come true. The “herba de namorar”, rode through the Canido quarter, home to the Meninas by Velázquez painted by di erent artists. Where to stop: Estaca de Bares, Vixía de or love herb, is also very popular for those who renowned Meninas de Canido, a great example I was mysti ed to see how they have turned this want to make their love interest love them back. Herbeira, Santo André de Teixido, Cariño, of street art that came into existence almost neighbourhood into an outdoor museum. Cedeira, Mugardos, Pontedeume. I left Teixido still amazed by all that beauty, and I accidentally when a local artist, Eduardo Hermida, I rode on and, reaching Narón, I crossed a What to visit: Semáforo de Bares, Sanctuary arrived in Cedeira. Once in this town, I crossed the wanted to give some colour to a house front. bridge over the estuary of Ferrol, once chosen Condomiñas River and entered one of the most Today, this place has become an exhibition of of Santo André de Teixido, Monastery of as a strategic place for navy vessels, given its Caaveiro, Torre dos Andrade. iconic streets in this place, full of houses with over 300 murals with di erent versions of Las natural conditions, with a narrow entrance that gradually widens. This estuary had the perfect What to see: FCabo Ortegal, Loiba cli s, characteristics to create a defensive system Serra da Capelada, Freixeira lake and beach, initially made up of three 16-century castles XVI Meninas de Canido, Fragas do Eume. (the Castle of San Felipe being the best preserved Where to eat: In Cariño or Cedeira, today), and then by two more in the 18th century depending on how hungry you are and how for added security. much time you have. I headed for the southern side of this estuary, Where to stay: Pontedeume. seeing Ferrol from a di erent angle. I arrived in Mugardos, picturesque seafarers’ village. I stopped here and couldn’t help trying the famous completed stage - Puentedeume octopus Mugardos style. It was delicious. It was time to go to Pontedeume, in the estuary of Ares, where I rode into the Fragas do Eume Natural Park. Slopes and mountains  ank the sello o cial Eume River, making up an Atlantic deciduous forest where Galician oaks are the main species. Pontedeume Malpica Cabo Vilán Fervenza de Ézaro SUMMER ROUTE 5

FRAGAS DO EUME - held by a bear and a wild boar. This was I left, resolved to discover A , height. Four summits comprise this ensemble COSTA DA MORTE among the graves of other medieval knights, feared by seafarers for its many shipwrecks. of gigantic rocks, o ering stunning viewpoints since important noble families inhabited the A wild stretch of coastline with immense around the valley of Traba. I headed to the I started a new route into the estuary of locality in the Middle Ages. Betanzos is also beaches, cli s, strong currents and sudden Legacy of Man in Camelle. Manfred Gnädinger Betanzos from the small historical town of known as the city of knights and the capital storms. Commanded by the ocean. arrived on this coast in 1962. Attracted by the Pontedeume. I got ready to visit the locality of Mariñas. Its large encyclopaedic park, O beauty of its forms, he decided to settle down from up there, between the rivers Mendo Right before the coast, I stopped at Buño to Pasatempo, was created by the García Naveira visit the Eco-museum Forno do Forte. I had and started to live in harmony with nature, and Mandeo, surrounded by grape crops brothers; wealthy Galicians who had made creating di erent artworks. The German man that would later become Wines with a the chance to sit before a potter’s wheel and good in America, and who promoted cultural practising with my own hands, following in Camelle ended up living right on the coast, Betanzos Protected Geographical Indication. and charitable activities in the town at the end in his museum, defending a number of values Two national monuments, located right in expert instructions, just like any traditional of the 19th century. Replicas of statues, murals female potter would. for the incorporation of art into nature. I hear the square, stand out in its site of historical of well-known artworks, customs from other tell that he died of a broken heart short after interest: Santa Mª do Azogue and San nations… all of it immersed in walks, caves Now in Malpica de Bergantiños, I found the Prestige dyed the coast black with asphalt. Francisco. What struck me inside the  rst and arti cial lakes, taking advantage of natural a considerable inshore  shing  eet in its Gothic church was the capital with the only harbour, with seiners standing out. Its  sh The English Cemetery witnessed the many springs and channelling its water. ‘‘The Time shipwrecks that occurred on this dangerous agricultural calendar in Galicia, together with Zones of the World’’, ‘‘Cupid’s Fountain’’, ‘‘The market also o ers barnacles for sale. It was the high altarpiece. In San Francisco I came a whaling harbour in the 17th century, coast. It is a reminder of the Serpent tragedy, Christians at the Circus,” are among some of a Royal Navy vessel that ran aground in 1890, across the grave of Fernán Pérez de Andrade, the topics. monitoring the passing of whales to the Sisargas islands before its coast. The beach of with only three surviving seafarers. The 172 Canido is on the other side of the peninsula. victims rest in this place, which is part of the European Route of Signi cant Cemeteries, a I followed my route, leaving an uneven and recognised European Cultural Route. To its rough coast behind, with lighthouses and right, you can  nd the greatest reserve of capes such as that of Roncudo, named after ‘‘camariñas’’ in Galicia. This native bush, the the raucous sound the sea makes breaking camariña (Corema album) is now a protected against its coast. Crossing the Anllóns River, species, the Camariñas locality named after it. the estuary of Corme and Laxe came into view. I decided to stop at the harbour of this latter I stopped at the Lighthouse of Cabo Vilán, one locality to savour its well-known barnacles. of the most symbolic lighthouses in Galicia. The  rst electric lighthouse on the Spanish Refreshed by the appetiser, my way continued coasts was inaugurated here in 1896. What past the rocks of Pasarela and a Traba, which caught my attention was the covered tunnel greeted me gracefully from their 274 metres in joining the keepers’ building with the lantern arrived in a stone boat to encourage the along one of the cli sides. Apostle Saint James. The imposing temple is At the seafarers’ town of Camariñas, famous surrounded by individually-named gigantic for its elegant bobbin lace with  ligrees, I rocks: “Abalar”, “Cadrís” “Namorados” and made a pit stop for lunch — I longed to revel “Temón”. Inside, small boats o ered up by in the sea delicacies the place o ered me. seafarers as a token of gratitude keep the Virgin company. My culinary expectations were met, and once again on my bike, I delighted myself I covered this stretch straight to Fisterra with the estuary of Camariñas all the way to thinking of the succession of seafaring Porto Bridge. From the road, I caught sight of pilgrimages, rituals, beliefs and legends on this the Romanesque monastery of San Xián de coast. I went through its narrow alleys and, Moraime, an old Benedictine hermitage dating on the road to the lighthouse, past the church back to the 12th century, and the work of of Santa María de Fisterra and the ruins of the Maestro Mateo’s school, a famous sculptor of old pilgrims’ hospital, a growing number of the Portal of Glory on the cathedral of Santiago pilgrims walking past to Cabo Fisterra. Before de Compostela. Now on my way through the going to the lighthouse, I decided to continue town of Muxía, the conger eel driers caught along the road to Mount Facho to enjoy the my attention. They are the only remaining view. Yet a couple of bends and I realised I was ones out of the many that there used to be in not the only one planning on looking down the North of the Peninsula. the landscape from up there. It was worth it. I Francisco and of Seixido before I parked my Where to stop: O Pasatempo, Legacy of went to the well-known lighthouse with Ara bike in Muros and decided to walk around its Man in Camelle, Lighthouse of Cabo Vilán, A Solis on my mind. No wonder tradition has it narrow streets. Its site of historical interest Nosa Señora da Barca, Lighthouse of Fisterra, that the Romans found a sun altar in this place, has good examples of popular architecture; Fervenza do Ézaro, hórreos of . as the sunsets must be gorgeous. with fountains, seafaring dwellings and noble What to visit: Betanzos, Buño, Muros. After this brief pit stop, I headed towards the architecture standing out. Ground  oors with What to see: Rocks of Pasarela e a Traba, Fervenza do Ézaro to see the spectacular fall arcades in pointed arch, continuous balconies English Cemetery, San Xián de Moraime, of the river down the hillside of Mount with iron railings, large Baroque and Gothic conger eel driers in Muxía. Pindo. It is regarded as the only river in Europe houses, modernist buildings with enclosed reaching the sea as a waterfall. Lovely views balconies… it was a pleasure, wandering Where to eat: Laxe, Camariñas. over the cove of Ézaro. around calle Real, Peixería Vella, Mariña, the Where to stay: Muros. food market and the old collegiate church It was time to see two of the biggest hórreos completed stage - Muros in Galicia. That is why, in Carnota, I went to the of Santa María do Campo. At the harbour I What awaited me was a tremendous ocean- church of Santa Comba  rst and then to that enjoyed a nice supper, and decided to call it a defying sanctuary: A Nosa Señora da Barca. of Lira, to see their ensembles of hórreos and day after my route across the meandering and It is one of the oldest places of pilgrimage dovecotes. defying orography of the Costa da Morte. This was a well-deserved rest. sello o cial in Galicia: the Jubilee Way from Santiago to I went past Lariño, rode past the lagoon and Muxía-Fisterra. Legend has it that the Virgin Mount of Louro, and saw the coves of San Muros Catoira A Illa de Arousa O Grove SUMMER Corrubedo Vilagarcia de Arousa Cambados ROUTE 6

RIA DE MUROS E the middle of the “Quintana de Mortos” life in a place like this is extraordinary… The a “carballeira’’ (oak wood) and was known - RIA DE AROUSA (cemetery). These place peculiar medieval view from up there is well worth it. as the ‘‘Moor’s Stone’’, owing to the many tombs have the trade symbols represented I went on with my route and turned o to stories connecting these places with secret After a nice rest at the small seafarers’ town on them. An anchor for the seafarer, a pick treasures and mythological beings. of Muros, I started my journey to explore the make a little pit stop at the Beach of Furnas. and shovel for the quarryman, scissors for the This hidden paradise has served as the I went up a steep slope with hairpin bends estuary of Muros and Noia in the morning, tailor, a knife for the butcher… the “Calvary” and the estuary of Arousa in the afternoon. backdrop for some  lms (Sea Inside) and, up to Mount Tahume. From its summit (242 with a canopy (16th century) caught my eye, recently, a highly successful TV programme metres), I enjoyed a great view over the On my way through the cove of Muros, I left as these are usually open-air crosses. I later (Fariña). Trivia apart, it is a wild beach with protected area of the Marine Coastal Natural one of the Galician coastal tide mills on my learnt that there are only two of those in the a heavy swell, thus also making it a surfers’ Park of the Dunes of Corrubedo and the right. This speci c mill lays claim to being entire Galician region. paradise. lagoons of Carregal and Vixán. one of the largest in Spain: that of Pozo do Its pleasing narrow streets led me to Square Cachón. Tradition has it that in the old days, Following the road, I came across the The park, with an extensive dune system of of Tapal, with its “calvary” and the church of Dolmen de Axeitos, regarded as the great scenic and natural value, houses many people used to come to this place for the San Martiño. Its façade surprised me, as the ‘‘Santa Rita baths’’ to cure illnesses with Parthenon of megalithic art in Galicia. This di erent types of habitats within a relatively elderly Apocalypse  gures are depicted with collective tomb is situated in the middle of limited area, and is one the most visited seaweed and seawater baths. musical instruments, reminding me of the I enjoyed a quiet ride along the coves of Portal of Glory on the cathedral of Santiago. Bornalle and Esteiro, and the multiple rivers The nickname for this locality, “the small and streams that  ow into this coast: Rateira, Compostela”, immediately came to my mind. Mondelo, Maior, Cernadas, Pipe, Bendimón, Riding once again along the southern , Entíns, Rial, Donas… no wonder side of the estuary towards Baroña, in the Galicia is known as the land of the thousand municipality of Porto do Son, to visit its rivers! famous “castro” or Iron-Age settlement. It Upon reaching the most important river of was time for “”, as everything all, the Tambre, I turned o towards Bridge that has to do with these places is called. Nafonso to see one of the longest medieval Located in a small peninsula, the castro was bridges in Galicia. With a length of 270 inhabited until the 1st century AD. This small metres, it still has 20 out of its 27 original archaeological jewel is one of the better arches. preserved coastal castros in Galicia, with 20 Noia was a must-see. I began with the circular and oval houses surrounded by 2 church of Santa María A Nova, located in walls. Picturing how they went about their parks in Galicia. The great mobile dune is by the command of the bishop of Santiago to camellia specimens, and its trained vine of Vicente do Grove before heading up the 1 km long, 250 m wide and 20 m high. stop the Saracens and Normans from raiding albariño grapes. There I learnt of its wineries Vantage Point of Siradella, where I enjoyed The total surface area of the park is 1,000 the city. There is a small chapel dedicated to and interesting history. a spectacular view over the sandbanks of hectares. The fresh waters of the Lagoon of the apostle next to them. I crossed the bridge On my way to the Island of Arousa, I crossed the beach of Lanzada. The  nishing touch Vixán, and the salt waters of the Lagoon of when the famous ‘‘Viking Festival’’ was the almost 2-kilometre-long bridge that was my last ride around island of A Toxa, Carregal, together with the dune complex, being prepared. connects this locality with the continent notorious for its thermal springs. I stopped make it possible for 3,000 aquatic birds to On my way through Carril, I saw , since 1985, resolved to go all over one of o at its white-shelled chapel, at the  rst live there: teals, curlews, spoonbilled ducks, one of the islands of the Atlantic Islands of the newest city municipalities in Spain, facilities of the La Toja cosmetic factory, sandpipers, plovers... Galicia National Park, the sole national park created in 1997 after its split from Vilanova and at its Gran Hotel. When crossing the The fantastically-located harbour of in Galicia. It is also known as the bay leaf de Arousa. elegant modernist bridge, I saw a multitude of platforms specially dedicated to mussel Corrubedo o ers several restaurants to get island, due to its laurel forest. I was told that I bordered the island as far as the “Harbour your strength back. sometimes it is possible to see the female cultivation. This further inclined me to have a of Xufre”, where traditional  shing boats good meal and a more than deserved rest at After lunch, I went to the Lighthouse of gatherers of shell sh working in this area of abound. The Natural Park of Carreirón is the estuary, where clams are plentiful. the village of O Grove; my  rst contact with Corrubedo, and from there I continued my also on the island: this spot is located in a the over. journey towards the  shing harbours of Leaving Vilagaríca de Arousa behind, I peninsula and o ers multiple beaches and Riveira, going past the coastline, and then headed to the Pazo of Rubiáns, where I had coves, plus tracks to walk round it. on to A Pobra do Caramiñal, Escarabote, a guided route arranged. Walking amongst After relaxing in the park, I went into Salnés, Where to stop: Beach of Furnas, Dolmen of … the Mountain Range of Barbanza its vineyards and camellias, I progressively a wine-growing land with numerous Axeitos, Mount Tahume, Carreirón, Cambados, on my left the whole time. The Towers of discover this Garden of International wineries. I opted for Quinteiro da Cruz and, Vantage Point of Siradella. Catoira caught my attention when crossing Excellence. What su ced to persuade me to strangely enough, I came across much more What to visit: Noia, Baroña, Pazo of the river . visit this pazo was its interior, the story of than a winery with 3 hectares of vineyards: Rubianes, Winery of Quinteiro da Cruz. the Manor Vilagacía is named after, its 4,500 These medieval (9th century) ruins are built a pazo, an hórreo and a magni cent botanic What to see: Tide mill of Pozo de Cachón, garden. Classi ed as a garden of excellence Bridge Nafonso, Dunes of Corrubedo, Towers by the International Camellia Society. of Catoira, Harbour of Xufre, A Toxa, mussel I then went on to visit Cambados, where platforms. the oldest wine festival in Galicia has been Where to eat: Harbour of Corrubedo (village) held since 1953: the “albariño festival”. The and O Grove. albariño grape is the wine cultivation queen in the Salnés peninsula. In Cambados, I had Where to stay: O Grove. been recommended Square of Fe ñáns, and it did not disappoint me at all, with its completed stage - O Grove imposing homonymous pazo, and the church of San Benito. To conclude my day’s full route, I set course for the peninsula of O Grove, where I was sello o cial expecting to  nd beaches, thermal springs and sea products. I went all the way to San O Grove Mosteiro de Poio O Facho de Donón A Guarda SUMMER Combarro Bueu Baiona Tui ROUTE 7

RIA DE PONTEVEDRA Saint John’s Eve, or on the eve of the Virgin’s calvaries at almost every crossroads, hórreos its 16th and 18th century cloisters, but - - RIA DE Feast. Right behind the church is where the on every street corner… I was thrilled, as undoubtedly what captivated me the most - MIÑO ‘‘Saint’s bed’’ lies, a rock opening where it seemed something straight out of a fairy was the mosaic decorating the walls of one of couples had to have sexual intercourse. To tale. I stopped for a co ee in one of the many them. It depicts the French Way to Santiago, I decided to get up early that morning, as the complete the ritual, the woman had to go to existing pubs, as it was too early to have all the way from Paris to Santiago; its most weather was gorgeous and I had to make the the beach of A Lanzada and wet her belly with octopus, or their deftly cooked cockle corn pie. important monuments, and the di erent types most of it. I left O Grove towards Sanxenxo, 9 waves so that it would not take her long to I learnt a bit more about the hórreos. Learning of pilgrims. It is 80 metres long and 2.60 high, crossing a road that could have very well been achieve that longed for pregnancy. they are under heritage protection and that what a beauty! On my way out I came across a bridge, surrounded by water as it was. The From that very road I also had both an one of the largest ones in Galicia, which also the famous hórreo. Unusually, this one has thing is that until the 17th century O Grove amazing and close view of the archipelago happens to be monastery property, was three rows of pillars instead of two, setting it was an island, hence these characteristics. I of Ons, part of the National Park of the nearby, I decided to go. apart from the others. could see the dunes of A Lanzada hiding the Atlantic Islands of Galicia. A little bit further Back on track, on my way to nearby Atlantic Ocean on my right, and the wide and I visited the Monastery of San Juan de Poio, away, its older brother, the archipelago of a blend of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque. Pontevedra. In a few kilometres I went around rich estuary of Arousa on my left. The road I Cíes. It was a short yet pleasant journey, the city of Lérez and then on towards Marín. was going along was a naturally-occurring Inside its 17th century church was Saint with white sandbanks surrounded by rocks Trahamunda. Although unknown by many, it is I started to cover the southern part of the sand isthmus, giving rise to the peninsula of and vegetation, the turquoise ocean, nature estuary of Pontevedra, getting into the region O Grove. regarded as the saint of that ‘‘homesickness’’ sounds, the smell of saltpetre… no wonder that so often hits Galician people. I liked of O Morrazo. I continued along this road accompanied Galician people are so protective of what is by some very attractive views. No land was theirs. visible on the other side of the sea then, as is I stopped o at beach of Baltar in Portonovo. usually the case in estuary locations. I was in I was already going into the estuary of an open-ocean area, just leaving the estuary of Pontevedra and the municipality of Sanxenxo, Arousa and before entering that of Pontevedra. known as ‘‘the Galician Marbella’’ for its many I left the Hermitage of A Lanzada on my right, tourists. a Romanesque construction on a promontory, and one of those magical places that are so Combarro would be my next stop. Once there, common in Galicia. It is linked to fertilisation I went down to the centre, leaving my bike and rituals, with natural elements, such as rocks walking to the historic centre. I was surprised and the ocean, blending with the sacred. by what I found there: a small village with a Legend has it that women who have a hard special charm. Traditional houses, cobbled time conceiving came to this place either on streets, stairs sculpted on the very rock, I went through the centre of Marín, a large and told it had the  nest views. I left the castro I was in the Baixo Miño, the fertile ground industrial harbour. I also saw the Naval Military houses behind as I was going up. Reaching the of the province and the land of Albariño. I School and continued all the way to Bueu; a top was incredible, I could feel the wind on my arrived in Tui, and I walked into its old quarter, very traditional seafarers’ village. From there, face, appreciate the immensity of the ocean, dominated by the cathedral. The Cathedral of I moved on to Beluso and then Aldán to take and the Cíes Islands seemed within reach. Santa María de Tui is a Romanesque-Gothic the road leading directly to Cabo Home. There They were so close to me… like a paradise. building of great grandeur. I visited the temple it was, the famous seashell I have seen in so Now I understood why they were named the and its Museum, accessing the Cathedral many pictures. There was no pavement here, ‘‘Islands of the Gods’’ in another time. viewpoint through the cloister. From up there, it was a track, yet usable. I turned left, and the After this great energy boost, I resumed my I could contemplate the fabulous views over route was a real pleasure. I was surrounded journey along the peninsula of O Morrazo. I the Miño River, the 19th century international  rst by pine forests and then by the ocean. would now go through the villages of Cangas behind, I rode into the Fortress of Monterreal, bridge and, across it, Portugal. I moved forward towards the lighthouse, and Moaña. I was already in the estuary of now a parador located in an exceptional spot, After such a hectic day riding through a good located in an amazing spot in the heart of Vigo, and I could see the largest Galician city the peninsula of Boi. I made a break there to part of the Rías Baixas on my bike, I decided to nature. Dominating it all, the Ocean. on the other side. I crossed the bridge of Rande walk along its walls and enjoy the good view. have dinner and rest in Tui. Being already late and having a protesting over the estuary, and I cannot deny it made an My next visit would be mount Santa Trega stomach, I decided to have lunch right there. impression on me. and I took the coastal road to get there. The In such a place sea products were a must, so I Where to stop: Combarro, Poio, Cabo Home, I continued along the motorway to Nigrán, landscape was di erent from anything that I Baiona, A Guarda. ordered a turbot. It was delicious. very close to Panxón and the beach of Patos, a had seen during the day. The estuaries became Following the restaurant sta ’s advice, I surfers’ favourite. I reached Baiona following ocean, and the sandbanks, rocks. A di erent What to visit: Monastery of Poio, Fortress resolved to go up Mount Facho, as I had been the coast. Leaving its promenade and marina landscape, yet equally attractive. There were of Monterreal, Hermitage and Mount Santa a lot of pilgrims, since it is on the Portuguese Trega, Cathedral of Tui. Coastal Way. What to see: A Lanzada Beach, Ons Islands, I arrived in A Guarda and rode up the hill. Sanxenxo, Estuary of Pontevedra, Estuary of Climbing up around the mountain, I enjoyed Vigo, Cíes Islands, Nigrán, A Guarda and Tui. two di erent views: on one side, the village, Where to eat: Cabo Home or Cangas. and on the other, the mouth of the river Miño, Where to stay: Tui. a natural border with Portugal. On my way up I could see how the the former residents of one of the most important castros in Galicia used to live. Leaving my bike at the highest point, I took the opportunity to visit the museum completed stage - Tui displaying the exhibits found during the digs. I also went into the hermitage, where the image of the virgin Santa Trega is. I left A Guarda on my way to Tui, swapping sello o cial a sea for a river landscape, the wood and the rocks for vegetable gardens and vineyards. Tui Cortegada Mondariz-Balneario SUMMER Arbo ROUTE 8

TUI - ARBO - RIBADAVIA one holding its waters back before the river their mass wine supply, while looking after Hebrew confectionary and a toasted wine or - CELANOVA - mouth. I arrived in the spa of Cortegada, a the native varieties their current worldwide a co ee liquor. And make it coincide, as I did, MONDARIZ BALNEARIO naturally-occurring spring. Both in Cortegada prestige is owed to. with the History Festival (on the last Saturday and Arnoia, not only can you enjoy their Walking around the historic centre and old of August) when the whole town transforms Leaving Tui, I headed towards Arbo, a thermal springs, you also have the chance to Jewish quarter in Ribadavia, I discovered into a medieval village, with tournaments, municipality included in the  ve subareas sail on a catamaran and revel in the view of the its past through its rich monumental and falconry exhibitions or the acting out of a of wine production with the Rías Baixas Miño River valley. cultural heritage, which includes Romanesque Jewish wedding. Designation of Origin, Condado do Tea. I continued through Prexigueiro, well-known churches like that of San Xoán and of Santiago, I left the Castrelo de Miño reservoir behind and In Wine and Lamprey Interpretation Centre for its open-air thermal baths. In the village the old House of the Inquisition and the Castle kept riding south for a long stretch, meaning “Arabo”, I came to understand the huge of Francelos I came across a small gem of of the Sarmiento family. to stop for lunch in Celanova. Well-known historical link between wine and lamprey. I pre-Romanesque art, the church of San Xes, The Franciscan monastery can be seen from Galician authors such as Manuel Curros was shown the  shing gear and catches, the characterised by its facade with windows the old walled enclosure. It is, just as the Enríquez and Celso Emilio Ferreiro have sung  sheries ( shing stone structures) and tide and other decorative elements from the 9th Dominican one, beyond the wall. I entered its praise on many occasions. The former was nets. There is a lamprey route along many century Mozarabic art. the church of Santo Domingo, looking for the born here and a museum is dedicated to him, viewpoints, trails, bridges and chapels, among In the Ribeiro region I was welcomed by its granite-cut  gure of a bag-piper. the House of Poets. other elements. One of the popular festivals capital, Ribadavia. As the name suggests, it is Do not leave Ribadavia without  rst tasting the It is worth scanning the horizon from the Arbo holds at the beginning of August is located on the Avia riverbank. It is the oldest castro of Castromao, a few kilometres before the “dried lamprey’’ festival. Arbo also has a “richada” meat served with some D.O. wine. wine-producing town in Galicia. Wine is also After the meal, nothing could exceed some Castrelo de Miño. The castro has seventy multitude of restaurants where you can taste grown on the banks of the Miño, Arnoia and this delicacy in a number of di erent ways. Barbantiño. It is hard not to drop by one of its Interestingly, Romans not only extracted gold, wineries and calmly taste a cup of the famous but also the prized lampreys, caught for the wine, as Ribadavia is on the Ribeiro Caesar of Rome, who held exuberant feasts Wine route. with this delicious delicacy. Legend has it Its vineyards are sprinkled over valleys and that Romans also used it as a torture method: steep slopes, since terraces were made for ease “sinners” were introduced in big water tanks of cultivation, the hillsides worked into plots with lampreys, their jagged jaws feeding on known as “bocarribeiras” or “socalcos”. their victims. Surprisingly, Cistercian monks from the nearby Having covered the road that goes along the monastery of San Clodio, now a monument Miño, I crossed the Frieira reservoir, the last hotel, introduced vine cultivation to ensure Its main towns are , on the left edge, through Castro Laboreiro, a castle standing and Entrimo, on the right one. The National above its summit. However, I preferred the see Park Peneda-Gerês and the Natural Park Baixa the views from the Castle of Sobroso on my Limia-Serra do Xurés (in the municipalities way to Mondariz. of Entrimo, Lobios and Muíños) join on the A good way to conclude this intense journey craggy mountain ranges. Its trans-border was to go to one of the main thermal towns in nature further enriches a natural area where Spain: Mondariz-Balneario, which preserves cultural and linguistic diversity, together with the full charm of its Belle Époque splendour. its variety of woods and rivers climbing down And as this day’s journey was about with waterfalls, and crystal-clear swimmable pools, pools and thermal springs, a very good way o er a unique experience. You can get to know to end it would be with a good, relaxing, every single corner of this wonderful park therapeutic bath, accompanied of course by a thanks to its numerous routes and viewpoints. good massage. There is every reason to come -and stay- in O Xurés. frames and is on a hill that overlooks the Roman road and found elements such as 2,000 years ago, a road crossed it from north Where to stop: Arbo, Ribadavia, Celanova, Arnoia River. Roman mines, bridges and milestones. to south, the already partially seen road Mondariz. The Praza Maior in Celanova is dominated The Visigoth temple of Santa Comba is also XVIII or Vía Nova, built by the Romans to link What to visit: Wine and Lamprey by a fountain. It is said that drinking from located at this point. The nave and wall Astorga and Braga. No legions go through it Interpretation Centre Arbo, Ribadavia, its northern spout will drive you crazy. From paintings of this church are a must-see. The now, as in years past, but the odd “cachena” Celanova. there, I accessed the Benedictine Monastery of remains of an annexed chapel can be seen cow does. This is the best place in Galicia What to see: Thermal springs of Cortegada, San Salvador and went to a small Mozarabic outside its walls. Christenings would take to see specimens of this small breed with Church of San Xoán and Santiago and Jewish chapel, the Oratory of San Miguel. A unique place here so those who came could join the long horns, adapted to the mountain range Information Centre in Ribadavia, Castro of example in the Iberian Peninsula, it is church as Christians. The baptismal font still harshness. Castromao, Monastery of San Salvador de essential to understand the days of Christian remains. Celanova, Church of Santa Comba de Bande, repopulation. I entered it to see the horseshoe The o ces of the Interpretation Centre of Roman thermal baths of Bande and Aquis arch with al z from up close, and I was the Natural Park Baixa Limia-Serra do Xurés Querquernnis, Lobios, Castle of Sobroso. amazed by its limited size yet unique structure. are located in the spa town of Lobios, the Where to eat: Celanova. Following the traces of the past, I headed Caldo River inviting you to relax in its thermal Where to stay: Mondariz. south to Bande to see the Roman thermal waters. The woods here, which coexist with baths or Bande Baths, and the Roman site the steep granite mountain ranges dividing completed stage - Mondariz-Balneario “Aquis Querquernnis”. It is made up of a Spain and Portugal, have no regard for military camp and a mansio viaria, which borders. Maybe that is why this is the land of is located on on the banks of As Conchas Couto Mixto, a territory that never belonged After going past the Limia River, I arrived in Entrimo, where a Baroque architectonic jewel, Reservoir. to Spain nor Portugal, and whose inhabitants sello o cial The Interpretation Centre “Aquae Querquennae would choose their desired nationality on their the church of Santa María a Real, stands out. - Via Nova” is in the vicinity. It recreates a wedding day. Going northeast, I entered Portuguese soil Fundación Galifornia

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