Textiles; printing, and other finishing processes (Part I)

Dr Celina Jones Lecturer in Fashion Technology [email protected] M A T S 6 7 1 2 1 Aim of Today’s Lecture Introduce you to finishing manufacturing techniques and basic production processes. In particular, we will be focusing on technologies within the field of fabric enhancement (printing) and other processes. Introduce a range of finishes for , detailing their purpose and method of application M A T S 6 7 1 2 1 Structure of the Lecture

25  Briefly recap Week 1 and Coloration  Finishing Processes Minutes  Before dye is applied

 Finishing Processes 25  Before dye is applied Minutes  After dye is applied

 Sublimation Printing 25  Thermochromics Minutes  Pigments and Binders Finishing

R E V I S I O N - L A S T W E E K Textile Fibres

Synthetic Cellulosic

Disperse Acid Direct ()

Acid () Reactive Finishing COLOURATION Applying Dyes to Textiles to Dyes Applying Finishing Digital Printing Print Ink Print Cover next week next Cover Dye Dye Screen UsingSilk Print Paste Print COLOURATION Application Processes with Dyes with Processes Dye Bath Dye Finishing COLOURATION the application of dye: application of the Processes: Dye Bath Dye Processes: before Processes Processes Finishing Wells K. 1997 K. Wells dye. - to wring, squeeze and squeeze wring, to – shiboru press’. Japanese name, deriving from the the from Japanese name, deriving ‘ verb Often referred to as tie to referred Often Shibori PHYSICAL RESISTS PHYSICAL RESISTS Shibori https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/24694/page/1 Finishing . stitches,etc , using string,using , fabric objects, folds, objects, folds, from the from A process of blocking the dye the dye of blocking A process Shibori PHYSICAL RESISTS Finishing clamps Can use blocks of wood and wood of Canuse blocks Shibori PHYSICAL RESISTS PHYSICAL RESISTS Finishing ctional/ikatshibori/itaje.jpg http://images.dharmatrading.com/images/public/instru LlNalsBsGZc/Tq9yVDcXknI/AAAAAAAANAc/e_l7MYr4PVc/s1600/IMG_0092.JPG - Creates geometric repeats geometric Creates http://3.bp.blogspot.com/ Shibori Shibori PHYSICAL RESISTS PHYSICAL RESISTS Finishing BIG.jpg - http://www.barkclothhawaii.com/fabrics/detail/d20batik.jpg http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/img/photo/thumb/00946 fabric. Wax was used traditionally as theas used traditionally was Wax chemicals be can but today resist, used. A process of blocking the dye from from the blocking dye of A process the Batik PHYSICAL RESISTS Finishing 1993 styles.html - Ingamells acid nonvolatile https://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/04/printing of reactive dyes on cellulosic cellulosic on dyes reactive of fibres. Prevent the fixation mechanism the fixation Prevent operating. from a example, For fixation alkaline the prevent will COLOURATION Chemical Resists Chemical Finishing Fabric Undyed Undyed COLOURATION the application of dye: the application of Chemical Resist Printing Resist Chemical before A process A process Finishing COLOURATION the application of dye: the application of Chemical Resist Printing Resist Chemical before Printing paste with paste Printing A process A process Chemical resist agent Chemical resist Finishing COLOURATION the application of dye: the application of Chemical Resist Printing Resist Chemical before Print Chemical Resist Chemical Resist A process A process Finishing COLOURATION the application of dye: the application of Chemical Resist Printing Resist Chemical before A process A process Finishing COLOURATION the application of dye: the application of Chemical Resist Printing Resist Chemical before A process A process Please go to kahoot.com on your laptop or the ap on your phone… Finishing COLOURATION the application of dye: application of the Processes: Dye Bath Dye Processes: before Processes Processes Finishing

PHYSICAL RESISTS Ikat

A process of blocking the dye from the .

Warp and/or weft yarns are tied together in bundles to make the desired pattern.

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PHYSICAL RESISTS Ikat

They are then dyed and the ties undone.

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PHYSICAL RESISTS Ikat

The yarns are then threaded through the

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PHYSICAL RESISTS Ikat Finishing - discharge - 1024x680.jpg 09 - - printing https://media.seamwork.com/2016/04/Melissa_Dettloff COLOURATION Discharge Printing Discharge the application of dye: the application of after ‘illuminated discharge printing’discharge ‘illuminated Intricate print on a coloured fabric a coloured on print Intricate a colour; or be white can The print as to referred the latter   A process A process Finishing For example, if the discharge agentthe if example, For dyes sensitive then alkali alkali is shade the ground must be used in Ground shade of the fabric must must shadethe fabric of Ground agent the discharge to be sensitive be (i.e. paste, the print in ‘white give to dischargeable) appearance’.   COLOURATION Discharge Printing Discharge the application of dye: the application of after A process A process Finishing Dyed Dyed Fabric COLOURATION Discharge Printing Discharge the application of dye: the application of after A process A process Finishing discharge agent Printing paste with paste Printing COLOURATION Discharge Printing Discharge the application of dye: the application of after A process A process Finishing Discharge Print Discharge COLOURATION Discharge Printing Discharge the application of dye: the application of after A process A process Finishing Printing the application of dye or used used or on the application dye of COLOURATION Devoré cellulosic yarn to hold it together. together. it hold to cellulosic yarn - after fibre fabric under the influence of heatof andacid the influence under fabric fibre - when the is removed there remains a remains there the cellulose is removed when non of skeleton been used including acidic of chemicals A number have aluminium acid and sulphuric bisulphate, sodium sulphate. Printing process of removing cellulose from a dual or cellulose from removing of process Printing multi so the purpose for constructed specially is The fabric Can be a process process Canbe a dyes: of instead fibres Removing fabrics. undyed    Finishing paste: devoré Printing COLOURATION Devoré PA/3R (6% stock) stock) (6% PA/3R Indalca Water Water Glycerine (glycerol) (glycerol) Glycerine 5g 20g 15g Aluminium Sulphate Sulphate Aluminium 15g 60g An example of a typical colourless a typical colourless of example An

Finishing printing/ - https://oss.adm.ntu.edu.sg/bren0016/tag/transfer when heated. when as the disperse dyes as the disperse dyes siblime Transfer printing Transfer technique process transfer A dry (does not use water) Uses disperse dyes Called printing sublimation     COLOURATION Sublimation Printing Sublimation Finishing transfer/ - C) ° textiles.blogspot.com/2011_08_01_archive.html - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/fabricprint/heat http://hot 40 seconds 40 - printing paste applied is paste printing no washing the fabric; to necessary. is off Can be applied by Canbe applied by paper or onto painting printing inkjet put andpaper are Fabric (200 heat press in 30 is thatno Advantage    COLOURATION Sublimation Printing Sublimation Finishing - capsules - pcm peultjes_0.png - met - atrastijkbreisel http://www.centexbel.be/files/month/m SMART TEXTILES the encapsulated encapsulated the containing phase phase containing PCMs solidify and heatPCMsand is solidify Phase Change Materials (PSMs) Materials Change Phase to changes in the temperature of the environment. theof environment. the temperature changesin to Through the use of textile finishes, textiles can respond can respond textiles finishes, textile the use of Through temp. increase increase temp. chemical melts and absorbs the heat. melts chemical and absorbs falls temp. effect.heat providing released, to fabrics. to ⬆ ⬇ Microencapsules be added can (PCM) change materials http://wcec.ucdavis.edu/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/PCM_hero.jpg Finishing temperature temperature change in colour a changewith incolour change in (thermochromics) which display a display which (thermochromics) COLOURATION Microencapsulated dyes can used be dyes Microencapsulated Thermochromics Finishing COLOURATION Thermochromics Finishing variety of ways: of variety COLOURATION Thermochromics Thermochromics can be applied to textiles in ain be appliedcan textiles Thermochromics to 1. Pad mangle mangle Pad 1. Finishing COLOURATION 2. Screen Printed Printed Screen Silk 2. Thermochromics Finishing COLOURATION Thermochromics have been used in the past for novelty novelty past for the used in been have Thermochromics items, but today they are being used for medical textiles too. medical textiles used beingfor are they today but items,

Please go to kahoot.com on your laptop or the ap on your phone… Finishing Cannot penetrate textile textile penetrate Cannot the on reside and fibres the of fibre surface Colorants that are that are Colorants bath dye the ininsoluble with ‘bonds’ form Will not material the textile a ‘crystal’ Pigmentshave structure     Pigments COLOURATION - http://plentyofcolour.com/wordpress/wp content/uploads/2011/03/plentyofcolour_holi16.png Finishing Pigments COLOURATION Extruded through through Extruded The pigment is The pigment is The pigment throughout the fibre throughout spinneret to form form to spinneret filament distributed uniformly incorporated with the incorporated chips   1. Melt Spinning1.  Finishing ets_1/textile/process_aid_IMG_230.jpg http://www.wacker.com/cms/media/images/mark locks locks – Pigments COLOURATION Melt Cooled fibre Cooled fibre pigmentsolid fibre inside Pigment used needs to be used be Pigmentneeds to in heat stable (temp. head) spinneret  1.  Finishing http://thinkingflowers.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/dye.jpg print, – Pigments COLOURATION crosslinkers Simple technique heat cure dry and Consistsof pigment, thickener, binder, polymer and softeners emulsifiers,  2. Pigment PrintingPigment 2.  Finishing Heat Cure COLOURATION Dry Pigment Printing Pigment Print Finishing dimensional designs on dimensional - expands, thereby creating raised, raised, creating thereby expands, three fabric. the of the surface A puffing agent can be added to be addedagent A puffing can to paste, printingthe pigment the in 3D effect raised a creating fabric. is pigment print When the puff driedcured, and subsequently the printagent the puffing in   COLOURATION Pigment Printing Pigment http://www.optiger.cz/img/print_efekty.jpg Finishing Pigment inside fibre has high high has Pigmentinsidefibre spun)(melt fastness  Wash fastness is variable is variable fastness Wash dye. dependingon the Pigments are cheaper thandyes. cheaper Pigmentsare fastness, light high have Pigments fastness. light variable have Dyes depends fastness on Wash pigment location.     COLOURATION Pigment and Dye Comparisons Dye and Pigment Finishing http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/51511/page/4 Pigment/binder applications Pigment/binder fabric affect can adversely the fibre handle, pigment inside handle. on the has effect no applications on Pigment/binder the can affect textiles of surface lustre. fabric   COLOURATION Pigment and Dye Comparisons Dye and Pigment M A T S 6 7 1 2 1 Recommended Reading

Textiles and Fashion: Materials, Design and Technology, Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles Sinclair, R. (2015)

Chapter 19 – Fabric Finishing: Dyeing and Colouring Chapter 20 – Fabric Finishing: Printing Textiles M A T S 6 7 1 2 1 Further Reading

Synthetic Fibre Dyeing, edited by Chris Hawkyard, Society of Dyers and Colourists, 2004 Colour for textiles, A users handbook, Wilfred Ingamells , Society of Dyers and Colourists 1993 The Chemistry of Colour Application, by R.M. Christie, R. R. Mather and R. H. Wardman, Blackwell Science , 2000 Fabric Dyeing and Printing by Kate Wells 1997. Published by Conran Octopus Limited Textile Printing – Leslie Miles, Society of Dyers and Colourists, 2003.