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Textile Processing TEXTILE PROCESSING PREPARED BY SHEEBA.C ASSISTANT PROFESSOR , DEPARTMENT OF COSTUME DESIGN AND FASHION TEXTILE FINISHES Textile finishes refer to a finishing treatment given to a fiber, yarn, fabric either before or after fabrication to improve its physical appearance, functionally, hand , drape, and easy care features. APPLICATION OF TEXTILE FINISHES 1.Water bath finish ▪ It is one of the main application method for year. ▪ Inexpensive, and readily available solvent. ▪ In this method , the chemical was dissolved in water and applied on to the fabric by immersion and squeezing out the extra. APPLICATION OF FINISHES 2.Foam finishes ▪ Foam finishing saves water and energy. ▪ This method utilize foam instead of a liquid to apply the finish. ▪ Foam is made up of a mixture of air and liquid and therefore a small amount of liquid is used and absorbed by the fabric. APPLICATION OF FINISHES 3.Solvent finish ▪ Solvent finishing was developed to reduce water pollution and lower energy costs. ▪ In this process , the finishing chemical is mixed in a solvent. These finishes can be applied in open width or rope form. CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES Finishes can be classified as based on, • Types of finish: preparatory finishes, aesthetic finishes, and functional finishes • Process of finishing : Chemical finishes and mechanical finishes • Durability of finishes : Permanent finishes, durable finishes, semi-durable finishes and temporary finishes 1.PREPARATORY FINISHES The preparatory finishes are applied to fabrics to make them suitable for dyeing, printing, and further finishing processes. ▪ Desizing: Desizing is a process of removal of sizes starches and other substances applied to the yarns before the process of weaving. PREPARATORY FINISHES ▪ Singing The process of singeing involves the burning of fiber ends projecting from the fabric by using one or more gas flames. This process helps in making the fabric smoother and finer. PREPARATORY FINISHES ▪ Souring Souring is carried out to remove natural or applied impurities from the fabric before further finishing operations and dyeing. The impurities could be in the form of oils, starches, natural waxes, soil, and color tints. PREPARATORY FINISHES ▪ Bleaching Bleaching is carried out to remove the natural color and hydrophobic impurities of the fiber and make it white in color. It is done on fibers, yarns or fabrics. Most bleaches, such as hydrogen peroxide are oxidizing agents and the action is carried out by the active oxygen present in them. PREPARATORY FINISHES ▪ Mercerizing: Cellulosic yarns or fabrics undergo the mercerization treatment to increase their strength, luster, softness and affinity for dyes and water- borne finishes due to swelling of the fibers. PREPARATORY FINISHES ▪ Sizing Sizing finish provides stiffness, weight and body to the fabric. Water-soluble sizing is temporary, while rein-based sizing is permanent. During the process, the fabric is immersed in a mixture of waxes, oils, glycerin and softeners in adequate quantity. Talc, clay or chalk is used to add weight to the fabric. PREPARATORY FINISHES Calendering involves a pressing process in which a fabric is passed between heavy rollers to make it smooth and glossy, it is a mechanical finish and the process is not permanent and needs to be repeated after each laundering. 2.AESTHETIC FINISHES Aesthetic Finishes are applied to fabrics to change their appearance and hand. They create and applied design on the already constructed fabric and are therefore quicker and less expensive to produce than fabrics with structural designs, that is, designs incorporated during fabric construction , such as dobby and jacquard patterns, in woven's and knits. AESTHETIC FINISHES ▪ Luster Finishes Luster finishes are applied to improve the fabric luster. They act by changing the light reflectance of a fabric. These finishes are applied by calendering, in which the fabric passes between two cylinders, which exert pressure to apply the finish. AESTHETIC FINISHES ▪ Moireing The moire effect provides a wood grain or water marked appearance. ▪ Schreinerizing. Schreinerizing provides a sharp line appearance. This process is carried out with a metal roller engraved with very fine 200-500 diagonal lines per inch of the roller. 3.FUNCTIONAL FINISHES Functional finishes given to fabrics to improve their performance in terms of stability , shape, appearance, comfort, resistance to insects and microbes, and safety. a)Comfort Related Finishes Comfort related finishes are given to fabrics to them comfortable to wear. ▪ Water-repellent Finishes : Water-repelling fabrics are resistant to wetting but tend to get wet in excessive water, water repellency is dependent on surface tension and fabric permeability and therefore can be controlled by a combination of right fabric construction and finishing . a)Comfort Related Finishes ▪ Water-repellent Finishes Water-repelling fabrics need to have a very high warp count and should be made of regular yarns. The most common water-repelling chemicals are silicones, as they are durable when combined with durable press finished. These also give the fabric good drape,soft hand and stain resistance. Comfort Related Finishes ▪ Anti- static Finishes Static build up refers to the problem of garments clinging on to the body or to other fabrics. Static build-up also creates problems during production as fabrics cling to the machinery and attract dust and dirt. Anti-static finishes in the form of ammonium compounds are applied to reduce the static build-up on fabrics. These finishes act by improving surface conductivity so that excess electrons move to the atmosphere or ground. b)Safety-Related Finishes Safety-related finishes are applied on fabrics to make the wearer safe as per their usage. There are various types of Safety-related finishes. ▪ Flame –Retarding Finishes Flame-related finishes act by either blocking the flame’s access to fuel and hindering flame propagation or emitting a flame extinguishing gas. They also act by modifying the solids so that the end-products of combustion are not volatile or require excess heat to continue the fire. c)Biological Control Finishes A large number of insects can damage textiles, especially when the fabric is stored in dump and warm conditions. Therefore, the fabrics should always be stored in dry conditions after cleaning. For extra protection, some finishes can be applied to the fabrics. Biological Control Finishes ▪ Anti-Mildew Finishes Both cellulosic and protein fibres are damaged by moulds and mildew. It is best to prevent mildew growth by keeping textiles clean and dry and by regularly sunning and airing them. Electric lights and dehumidifiers can be used in dark and humid places. The finishes in the form of salicylanilide, also known as fungicides are applied to prevent mildew growth. Biological Control Finishes ▪ Anti-Moth Finishes Insects, such as silverfish, crickets and cockroaches, damage textiles, especially the textiles that are soiled. Moths and carpet beetles damage protein fibers. The problem aggravates in heat and moisture. ▪ Insect control finishes, knows as fumigants and insecticides can be used to protect the fabrics. ▪ Other method of insects control storing fabrics in a cold place. Biological Control Finishes Anti-Bacterial Finishes Anti-Bacterial finishes act by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and other odor-causing germs, preventing damage due to sweat, controlling spread of disease, and reducing infection risk after injury. These finishes are also known as antibacterial , antiseptic and germicidal. These finishes are used in hospital linen; contract carpeting, and skin contact clothing. Biological Control Finishes ▪ Anti-Bacterial Finishes The most widely used finish these days is irradiation treatment or sterilization, also known as electron beam sterilization. This treatment is cheaper, simpler, safer and is used for medical products, such as sutures and bandages. The beam can penetrate thermoplastic and foil packaging and therefore the goods can even be treated in the packed state. This process maintains the sterile environment until the package is opened. DYEING Definition: Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers, yarns, and fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color fastness. TEXTILE DYEING Dye: A dye can generally be described as a colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied. The dye is usually used as an aqueous solution and may require a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber. Pigment: Pigments are the special type of dyeing or printing materials for wet processing technology. Generally pigment is use for printing. Pigments can be define as a water insoluble coloring material mostly mineral origin have been used for coloration of metal, wood, stone and textile materials Difference between Printing and Dyeing Dyeing has no According to localized application. the design printing has localized application of dyes or pigments on the fabric Color is Color is applied in form of solution. applied in form of thick paste. In this In printing process fabric, yarn and fibers are dyed. only fabric are print. liquor ratio is higher. Less liquor ratio here than dyeing application. Thickener is not used here. Thickener is widely used here. Steaming is Steaming is used in the printed fabric for not required on dyed material. fixation. Here, color penetrates throughout the Here, color is applied only in the fabric fabric. surface. less expensive. More expensive. Classification of dye DYES Acid or Anionic Dyes Acid or Anionic dyes have a complete color range and can be used on protein fibers and man- made fibers, such as polyester, modified acrylic and modified rayon. The dyes produce bright colors but have poor fastness to washing and therefore fabrics need to be dry-cleaned. DYES Azoic Dyes Azoic dyes are applied in cold bath with ice, as this helps lower the dye-bath temperature for efficient dyeing. They are also known as ice colors. The dyes have a complete color of bright shades in yellows,reds and blacks. The dyes are cheap and are mainly used for cottons along with limited use on acetate and nylon.
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