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Finishing (Textiles) Finishing (textiles) From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search This article needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (September 2010) Textile finishing machinery, Red Bridge Mills, Ainsworth, 1983 In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile or clothing.[1][2] The precise meaning depends on context. Some finishing techniques such as bleaching and dyeing are applied to yarn before it is woven while others are applied to the grey cloth directly after it is woven or knitted.[3] Some finishing techniques, such as fulling, have been in use with hand-weaving for centuries; others, such as mercerisation, are byproducts of the Industrial Revolution.[citation needed] Contents [hide] • 1 Introduction • 2 Finishing- processing of cotton o 2.1 Purification and preliminary processes o 2.2 Coloration o 2.3 Finishing • 3 Standard finishes o 3.1 Quality-oriented o 3.2 Design-oriented o 3.3 Handle-oriented • 4 Special finishes for natural fibers • 5 Special finishes for synthetic fibers • 6 References • 7 Bibliography • 8 External links [edit] Introduction In order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to different types of physical and chemical treatments. For example, wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease-free or wrinkle-free. In a similar way, mercerising, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, waterproof, anti-static and peach finishing achieve various fabric properties desired by consumers. The use of 100% synthetic textiles has increased considerably since the development of textured yarns made of filaments, and the growing production of knit goods. The use of open weave has enabled production of lighter, breathable, fabrics to ensure better wearing comfort. The properties of plastic-based synthetic fibers, most important among them being polyamide, polyester and polyacrylonitrile, are essentially different from those of natural cellulosic and wool fibers. Hence the sequence of finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosic fabrics require a resin finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers already exhibit these easy-care criteria and require only a heat setting operation. [edit] Finishing- processing of cotton [edit] Purification and preliminary processes The grey cloth,woven cotton fabric in its loom-state, not only contains impurities, including warp size, but requires further treatment in order to develop its full textile potential. Furthermore, it may receive considerable added value by applying one or more finishing processes.[4][5] • Singeing Main article: Singe#Textiles Singeing is designed to burn off the surface fibres from the fabric to produce smoothness. The fabric passes over brushes to raise the fibres, then passes over a plate heated by gas flames.[6] • Desizing Depending on the size that has been used, the cloth may be steeped in a dilute acid and then rinsed, or enzymes may be used to break down the size.[6] • Scouring Scouring, is a chemical washing process carried out on cotton fabric to remove natural wax and non-fibrous impurities (e.g. the remains of seed fragments) from the fibres and any added soiling or dirt. Scouring is usually carried in iron vessels called kiers. The fabric is boiled in an alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty acids (saponification). A kier is usually enclosed, so the solution of sodium hydroxide can be boiled under pressure, excluding oxygen which would degrade the cellulose in the fibre. If the appropriate reagents are used, scouring will also remove size from the fabric although desizing often precedes scouring and is considered to be a separate process known as fabric preparation. Preparation and scouring are prerequisites to most of the other finishing processes. At this stage even the most naturally white cotton fibres are yellowish, and bleaching, the next process, is required.[6] • Bleaching Main article: Textile bleaching Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloration and remaining trace impurities from the cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is determined by the required whiteness and absorbency. Cotton being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower levels of bleaching are acceptable, for example. However, for white bed sheetings and medical applications, the highest levels of whiteness and absorbency are essential. [7] • Mercerising Main article: Mercerized cotton A further possibility is mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with caustic soda solution to cause swelling of the fibres. This results in improved lustre, strength and dye affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension, and all alkali must be washed out before the tension is released or shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing can take place directly on grey cloth, or after bleaching.[8] [edit] Coloration Color is a senation caused when white light from a source such as the sun is reflected off a pigment on the surface. The pigment selectively reflects certain wavelengths of light while absorbing others. A dye can be considered as a substance that can be fixed to a material that has these properties. The colour it reflects is defined by the structure of the molecule, and particular the parts of the chromogen molecule called the chromophore group. [9] There are two processes used to apply colour: • Dyeing Main article: Dyeing Finally, cotton is an absorbent fibre which responds readily to colouration processes. Dyeing, for instance, is commonly carried out with an anionic direct dye by completely immersing the fabric (or yarn) in an aqueous dyebath according to a prescribed procedure. For improved fastness to washing, rubbing and light, other dyes such as vats and reactives are commonly used. These require more complex chemistry during processing and are thus more expensive to apply. [10] • Printing Main article: Textile printing Printing, on the other hand, is the application of colour in the form of a paste or ink to the surface of a fabric, in a predetermined pattern. It may be considered as localised dyeing. Printing designs on to already dyed fabric is also possible. The common processes are block printing, roller printing and screen printing [edit] Finishing Mechanical finishing • Raising Another finishing process is raising. During raising, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibres, thereby imparting hairiness, softness and warmth, as in flannelette. • Calendering Main article: Calender Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the fabric is passed between heated rollers to generate smooth, polished or embossed effects depending on roller surface properties and relative speeds. [11] Chemical finishing Many other chemical treatments may be applied to cotton fabrics to produce low flammability, crease resist and other special effects. • Shrinking (Sanforizing) Main article: Sanforization Mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to as sanforizing), whereby the fabric is forced to shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates a fabric in which any residual tendency to shrink after subsequent laundering is minimal. [12] [edit] Standard finishes [edit] Quality-oriented • Calendering • Decatising • Desizing for woven fabrics. • Pressing • Scouring with detergents, alkaline solutions, or enzymes removes foreign matter. • Shrinking , Sanforization • Shearing or singeing smooths the fabric by removing the fine protruding fibers on the surface of the fabric. Flame singeing is the standard process: the wet fabric is passed through an array of gas burners at a suitable distance to burn the pills off of its surface. [edit] Design-oriented • Bleaching of woven fabrics removes any prior color in order to obtain a uniform color during the dying process. • Dyeing adds color. • Printing adds color and pattern. • Watering adds moiré patterns. [edit] Handle-oriented • Fulling or waulking adds weight and density. • Hydrophobic finishing produces a fabric that repels stains or water. • Weighting silk with metallic salts or polymer adds weight and improves handle. [edit] Special finishes for natural fibers Bio-polishing removes the protruding fibers of a fabric through the action of an enzyme. Enzymes, such as cellulase for cotton, selectively remove protruding fibers. These enzymes may be deactivated by an increase in temperature. Mercerisation makes woven cotton fabric stronger, more lustrous, to have better dye affinity, and to be less abrasive. Raising lifts the surface fibers to improve the softness and warmth, as in flannelette. Peach Finish subjects the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels, making the surface velvet-like. This is a special finish used mostly in garments. Fulling or waulking is a method of thickening woollen material to make it more water- resistant. Decatising to bring dimension stability to woollen fabrics. Calendering makes one or both surfaces of the fabric smooth and shiny. The fabric is passed to through hot, fast-moving stainless steel cylinders.
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