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1 II-B/1.2/494 OUTPUT O.5.1: Documented Analysis in Each

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1 II-B/1.2/494 OUTPUT O.5.1: Documented Analysis in Each ENPI Project Number II-B/1.2/494 OUTPUT O.5.1: Documented analysis in each subsector. Identification of manufacturing processes which are causing problems in each subsector and quantification of environmental impacts. OUTPUT O.5.2: Documented analysis in environmental legislation in each country. OUTPUT O.5.3: Documented analysis of entities specialized in textile. SUSTEXNET - SUITANABLE TEXTILE MEDITERRANEAN NETWORK 1 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Output 5.1 (Documented analysis in each subsector - manufacturing processes and problems), Output 5.2 (Documented analysis in environmental legislation) and Output 5.3 (Documented analysis of entities specialized in textile) have been achieved at the same time and with the same work done by all partners. Each couple of partners from each country -Spain, Italy, Tunisia and Egypt- were committed to develop an accurate analysis of the main technical/economic/social problems of its own textile sector, in order to detect technological / economic / environmental / social gaps to be covered along the value chain at local, regional and multi-country level. The most useful method to reach these outputs was a whole analysis per country that included all the issues to be considered. This analysis was structured as follows: A.5.1. METHODOLOGIES FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS IN SPINNING/WEAVING PROCESSES. A.5.2. METHODOLOGIES FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS IN DYEING/PRINTING/FINISHING PROCESSES. A.5.3. METHODOLOGIES FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS IN LOGISTIC AND DISTRIBUTION NETWORKS (These chapters generated O.5.1). A5.4. STUDY OF ENVIRONMENTAL LEGISLATION IN EACH AREA AND ESTABLISHMENT OF COMMON VALUES OF ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT (These chapter generated O.5.2). A5.5. STUDY OF EDUCATION, TRAINING AND TECHNOLOGICAL ENTITIES SPECIALIZED IN TEXTILE FIELDS IN EACH AREA, AND METHODOLOGIES FOR OPTIMIZING/INCREASE WORKING FORCE RESOURCES (These chapter generated O.5.3). This document collects 4 country analysis which are considered O5.1, O.5.2. and O.5.3. The collected and analyzed information and the 4 analysis (one per country) were also the basis for the further O5.4 (1 Report of methodology: Protocol or guide about methodology for diagnosis). 2 CONTENTS 1. The analysis of the main technical/economic/social problems in each textile industry (SPAIN, ITALY, TUNISIA AND EGYPT) ................................................................ 3 2 1. The analysis of the main technical/economic/social problems in each textile industry (SPAIN, ITALY, TUNISIA AND EGYPT) Here is enclosed the analysis of the main technical/economic/social problems in the 4 countries involved. The content that is included here is referred to the last version received of each analysis. The structure of the analysis was as follows: A.5.1. METHODOLOGIES FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS IN SPINNING/WEAVING PROCESSES. Introduction A.5.2. METHODOLOGIES FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS IN DYEING/PRINTING/FINISHING PROCESSES. Introduction The dyeing process. The printing process. The finishing process. A.5.3. METHODOLOGIES FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS IN LOGISTIC AND DISTRIBUTION NETWORKS A5.4. STUDY OF ENVIRONMENTAL LEGISLATION IN EACH AREA AND ESTABLISHMENT OF COMMON VALUES OF ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT A5.5. STUDY OF EDUCATION, TRAINING AND TECHNOLOGICAL ENTITIES SPECIALIZED IN TEXTILE FIELDS IN EACH AREA, AND METHODOLOGIES FOR OPTIMIZING/INCREASE WORKING FORCE RESOURCES 3 TECHNOLOGY, ENVIRONMENTAL AND SOCIAL IMPACT OF THE SPANISH TEXTILE INDUSTRY WP5- Technology, environmental and social impact assessment in the further perspective of resource-efficient Mediterranean textile industry. Prepared by: WP5 - IDENTIFICATION TECHNOLOGICAL/ECONOMIC/SOCIAL PROBLEMS 0 Table of contents 5.1. METHODOLOGY FOR FUTHER DIAGNOSIS IN SPINNING AND WEAVING PROCESSES ....................................................................................... 3 1. RAW MATERIALS. ............................................................................................................... 3 2. SPINNING AND WEAVING/KNITTING PROCESSES IN SPAIN. ...................................... 14 3. WASTE ................................................................................................................................ 26 5.2. METHODOLOGIES FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS IN DYEING / PRINTING AND FINISHING PROCESSES. ........................................................ 47 1. MACHINERY DEVELOPMENT ........................................................................................... 47 2. ADVANCED FINISHING PROCESSES .............................................................................. 49 3. ADVANCED DYEING AND PRINTING PROCESSES ........................................................ 54 5.3. METHODOLOGIES FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS IN LOGISTIC AND DISTRIBUTION NETWORKS. ............................................................................. 59 1. ANALYSIS OF ROAD FREIGHT. ........................................................................................ 61 2. ANALYSIS OF RAILWAY FREIGHT. ................................................................................. 64 3. ANALYSIS OF MARITIME/SEA FREIGHT. ........................................................................ 67 4. ANALYSIS OF AIRWAY FREIGHT. .................................................................................... 69 5.4. ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES AND POLICIES.............................................. 71 1. GENERAL ISSUES RELATED TO WATER and AIR QUALITY IN THE SPANISH TEXTILE INDUSTRY. .......................................................................................................... 71 2. INDUSTRIAL WASTER WATER TREATMENT. ................................................................. 74 1 WP5 - IDENTIFICATION TECHNOLOGICAL/ECONOMIC/SOCIAL PROBLEMS 3. PREVENTION OF LEGIONELLA IN HIGH RISK INSTALLATIONS. ................................. 78 4. ATMOSPHERE POLLUTANTS AND POLICIES. ............................................................... 81 5. SOLID WASTES AND CLASSIFICATION/MANAGEMENT. .............................................. 82 6. ALTERNATIVE AND INNOVATIVE SYSTEMS FOR TREATMENT OF WATER, MINIMIZATION OF WASTES AND REDUCTION OF POLLUTION ................................... 85 5.5. STUDY OF EDUCATION, TRAINING AND TECHNOLOGICAL ENTITIES SPECIALIZED IN TEXTILE FIELD. ..................................................................... 92 REFERENCES ..................................................................................................... 96 2 WP5 - IDENTIFICATION TECHNOLOGICAL/ECONOMIC/SOCIAL PROBLEMS 5.1. METHODOLOGY FOR FUTHER DIAGNOSIS IN SPINNING and WEAVING PROCESSES 1. RAW MATERIALS. The main raw materials in spinning / weaving sector in Spain are: - Cotton - Regenerated cotton - Wool - Rayon - Polyester - Polyamide - Acrylic - Elastane Here are the main traits of all of them, emphasizing paragraphs concerning their relationship with the environment (environmental impact, biodegradability, carbon footprint). NATURAL FIBERS 1.1. COTTON. 1.1.1. Properties. Cotton is a natural vegetable fiber with huge economic importance as a raw material for manufacturing textiles and clothing. The widespread use is largely due to the ease which the fiber can be braided in strands. The strength, absorbency and ease of washed and dyed also contribute to use cotton in the manufacture of a wide variety of textiles. 3 WP5 - IDENTIFICATION TECHNOLOGICAL/ECONOMIC/SOCIAL PROBLEMS Figure 1.- Cotton plant. 1.1.2. Source. Cotton is produced by a number of trees and shrubs belonging to the family of Malvaceae, which also includes the Hibiscus plants. When de cocoon develops, it is transformed into an oval ball which opens and discovers numerous black and brown seeds covered in a mass of white hairs. When they fully mature and dry, each of the hairs is a cell, flattened, with a sharp kink spiral and attached to a seed. The individual fiber length is between 1.3 and 6 cm. In addition, other shorter fibers also born from seeds. 1.1.3. Environmental impact. Although cultivation occupies only 2.4 % of the world's arable land, it consumes 16 % of insecticides. It is one of the most intensive crops where a large number of herbicides, defoliants and chemical fertilizers are also used. The environmental impact is huge and affects not only the communities that grow it but many neighboring areas and even away from the production areas. This is increased by the fact that cotton is mainly grown in poor countries or emerging economies where the situation in rural areas is still of great poverty. In Spain the situation is not much different although treatments are reduced and we can find maximum of up to 7 insecticide applications, a few of growth regulators and a couple of defoliants. And this is true regardless of herbicides treatments and chemical fertilizers. Moreover, insecticides such as parathion or adicarb, which are used very often, have been declared particularly problematic to human health by the WHO. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) considers seven of the 15 most widely used 4 WP5 - IDENTIFICATION TECHNOLOGICAL/ECONOMIC/SOCIAL PROBLEMS insecticides in cotton cultivation in this country as "possible", "probable" or "known" carcinogens (acephate, dichloropropene, diuron, fluometuron, pendimentalin, tribufos and trifuralin). We also should highlight the effects of climate change and greenhouse effect of nitrous oxide NO, 150 times more potent than famous CO2 (some scientists say up to 300 times more potent) because of its stability when it arrives at the troposphere. Cotton is a plant that has
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