In This Issue African Cooking in a (Pea)Nut Shell...... 2 Simple Akara ...... 15 Out of Africa...... 24 A Note on Moyin Moyin...... 34 Table Talk...... 35 Cooking Q&A Scrambled Eggs • Iced Coffee.• Electronic Edition African Colonial Cookbooks • Full Belly Project 3 African Cookbooks...... 38 Annotated Bibliography...... 42 Recipe Index Abala ~ Savory Cream of Rice...... 31 Akara...... 19 Coconut & Kidney Bean Soup...... 27 Egusi (Pumpkin Seed) Soup...... 28 Fish In Raw Peanut Sauce...... 8 Green Lentil & Banana Salad...... 32 Groundnut Stew...... 5 Kulikuli (Peanut) Akara...... 23 Lamb Stew with Squash & Black-Eyed Peas...... 25 Peanut Oil (Homemade) ...... 25 Spinach with Roasted Peanuts...... 10 Suya (Beef Kabobs)...... 13 Sweet Potato Rice...... 30 Sweetcorn, Chickpea, & Peanut Salad...... 12 91 Tanzanian Pineapple Dessert...... 33 Page  - -

Nut Shell Nut , a slightly mucilaginous paste paste mucilaginous , a slightly (Pea) fufu Cooking the West African Way African West the Cooking Then there is “bushmeat,” the omnium-gatherum term acha.

recently it was considered a disgrace in some areas of West Africa to write down recipes. recipes. down write until to fact, In Africa cooking. when West recipes of use not areas do cooks some African in West most disgrace day, a this To considered was it recently Nabwire, Constance and Montgomery —Bertha

When it comes to this sort of thing, the interloper’s course of action equiva is clear remember is do you what mostly when master to easiest is language foreign A There are, of course, degrees of foreignness. Africans use the same basic cooking cooking basic same the use Africans foreignness. of degrees course, of are, There mil peanuts, peas, black-eyed (corn, us to familiar ingredients with cook Africans

African Cooking... In A A In Cooking... African

several of them privately printed, and while I think I know more about the subject subject the about more know I think I while and printed, privately them of several than when I started, what I’ve learned has of left south me groping continent for the of words. part First off, that is I “African” by mean I what that explain should spent spent the past few throughamonths leafing good numberof cookbooks, African

lents for words you already know, then learn to put them into a readily comprehended comprehended readily a into them put to learn then know, already you words for lents the where things, slippery become verbs and nouns where languages in But structure. to eat them or not. But for me, the real dissonance comes after that—when the actual the that—when after comes dissonance real the me, for But not. or them eat to cooking begins. enough: either the foods are available or not. Then, if they are available, we can choose can we available, are they if Then, not. or available are foods the either enough: yambean, celosia, and for all kinds of wild game. let), as well as others most of us have never heard of, like butterfruit, marula, lablab, butterfruit,marula, like of, heard never have us of most others as well as let), made from a variety of tubers such as casava root and yam, and also from plantain—or, plantain—or, from also and yam, is often this In Africa, is a starch. of nourishment and root casava as such tubers of variety a from made substitute. likely other some these, lacking techniques techniques found the world Like over. much Third cooking, World the primary form term embraces far too much territory to be anything but wildly impressionistic—which impressionistic—which wildly but anything be to territory much too far embraces term share. to have I all about are impressions some since fine, is I the this, given Even veldt. and land, bush jungle, savannah, of Africa the Sahara, the Page  - - fresh shrimp. fresh and beef, say, or lamb lamb or say, beef, . and think a time in my life when the supermarket abundance I now take take I now abundance supermarket the when life my in a time was eat locally. It can be done—and for centuries was done—but not without a significant a significant without not done—but was centuries for done—and be can It locally. eat At first, this irritated me. If I’m going to make a stew, I want to startwith the The soups, stews, and chowders I prepared were easily identified by any guests by any guests identified I were easily and prepared chowders stews, The soups, Still... Someone once defined American cooking as being made up of dishes from dishes of up made being as cooking American defined once Someone Still... This is just what happened to me when I sought to get some idea of African cook African of idea some get to sought I when me to happened what just is This In fact, there there fact, In only

*African cooks have much to teach the “Eat Locally” movement, especially those who want us us want who those especially movement, Locally” “Eat the teach to much have cooks *African to labor. physical of amount staples left from years before on the kitchen shelves. shelves. kitchen the on before years from left staples where the tiny grocery store carried a very limited number of items. Mostly I was on my my on was I Mostly items. of number limited very a carried store grocery clams, dug tiny the greens, where wild and berries for foraged I managed. I fashion, my after and, own and made my crabmeat, the way picked through and mussels, periwinkles harvested for granted was beyond my reach, physically as well as financially. This is a story I’ve told told I’ve story a is This financially. as well as physically Maine reach, of my coast the beyond off was island an granted on for summering penniless, nearly and young was I before. do better, push myself harder, push myself harder, do better, elsewhere indifferently prepared. There is a sting of truth in that observation, but it wasn’t even nearly true. If I were going to be at least fair to African cooking, I had to different. The whole point of cooking, as I saw it, was to make sure they were differ recipesent. I saw these African as hopelessly generic. meat and work from there—a beef stew is one thing, a fish stew something entirely even fish. And since the market might just as well have a little of each, other recipes asjust might ahavewell theofAnd recipes other market since fish. even each, little chicken for calling them, combine can often seem impossibly arbitrary. A recipe for beef stew is that only if you happen if happen you only is that stew beef for A recipe arbitrary. impossibly seem often can or goat, lamb, pork, substitute can you told are you Otherwise, beef. to access have to understand: traditional African cooking is resolutely local.* This means that available available that means This local.* resolutely is yesterday cooking African available traditional understand: was what that guarantee no flux—there’s constant in are foodstuffs these recipes, down write do Africans when Consequently, today. market the in be will ing as Africans themselves perceive it. The reason for my difficulty is simple enough to enough simple is difficulty my for reason The it. perceive themselves Africans as ing slightest misplaced emphasis train-wrecks what you’re hoping to get across—you can can across—you get to hoping you’re what train-wrecks emphasis misplaced slightest head. your over in yourself find quickly

Page  - - (1916). If (1916).

The African Kitchen African The v l — Josie Stow, Stow, Josie — v l v

uring my summers in Maine, I learned much, but I could have learned so much so learned have could I but much, learned I Maine, in summers my uring Afri mentions, Stow Josie that nuts cracking for stones those like more. Just well as generations, of experience the against rubbing by shaped are cooks can kitchen every with relationship intimate an gain to necessary time slow the as In Africa … hours are spent choosing appropriate stones, weaving beautiful Stones gourds. decorating and carving and pots, clay sturdy making baskets, con through evolving shapes their generations, for used are nuts cracking for tinual wear. tinual wear.

In my world, boredom is kept at bay by seeking out the new; in African kitchens, African in new; the out seeking by bay at kept is boredom world, my In Most of us have heard who of Carver, famously discovered George Washington Those summers stand in sharp contrast to my cooking these days, when, if I happen happen I if when, days, these cooking my to contrast sharp in stand summers Those

many different uses for the peanut and who issued the influencial Tuskegee bulletin: Consumption bulletin: Tuskegee Human influencial the for issued who and peanut the for uses It different many Preparing of Ways 105 and Peanut the Grow To How transformed that American familiar, the peanut. peanut. the familiar, American that transformed the new comes from ingeniously expanding the boundaries of the old. is For the of way reimagining cooks have example this African me, culinary most remarkable the D every item of food they prepare.implement they own and essence of African cooking, I had to go up into my mental attic and dust off a mindset mindset a off dust and attic mental my into up go to had I cooking, African of essence trunk. a in away packed ago long had I that to go to the store with a dish already in mind, I know I’m likely to find there just what I what just there find to likely I’m know I mind, in already dish a with store the to go to certainty of sort that is It quantities. exact the ingredients, exact it—the the make to of need hold get to wanted I If possible. cooking recipe-inspired of luxury the makes that dishes tasty and satisfying, able to stand up to constant reiteration. reiteration. constant to up stand to able satisfying, and tasty dishes who ate them, even though the sort and proportions of ingredients were rarely the same. same. the rarely were ingredients of proportions and sort the though even them, ate who once I Furthermore, to started get into this kind of I cooking, learned to make these Page 

- - , and something even more valuable valuable more even something and , bean those two words embrace. words two those Groundnut Stew Groundnut bean. Like olive and palm oil, peanut oil can be extracted be extracted can oil peanut oil, palm and olive Like bean. possibilities . oil-producing nut I was wrong. The peanut isn’t there to provide the grace note to a dish but its very very its but dish a to note grace the provide to there isn’t peanut The wrong. was I Of course, it was no news to me that the peanut is really a legume, but that bit that but legume, reallya is peanut the that me to news no was it course, Of In Africa, however, while its “nutty” taste is liked and often taken advantage of, the the of, advantage taken often and liked is taste “nutty” its while however, Africa, In Matt and I both realized this the first time I made peanut soup in the African fash African the in soup peanut made I time first the this realized both I and Matt “Groundnut,” of course, is another word for peanut, the one most often used native in African cookbooks, where British English is the norm.I use However, it as the title for this recipe to remind you that to taste it at its best, this stew requires is This butter. peanut using just of instead yourself peanuts the up grind you that the end of the story, but the start of one. the end of the story, but first mouthful when I wanted to make it with lamb. I said this to Matt and discovered and Matt to this said I lamb. with it make to wanted I when mouthful first that she wanted to make it with fish. The presenceof the peanut in this dish wasn’t ion. It wasn’t only delicious, it was redolent of possibility. I had hardly of possibility. swallowed it redolent was my delicious, only It wasn’t ion. essence a stock-based soup flavored with peanut butter, African peanut soup is a bean a is soup peanut African butter, peanut with flavored soup stock-based a essence of multitude the with soup, in the pot. good as which, soup, peanut it Southern in is, remains American Unlike foundation. big role in African cooking—if you said “African cooking” to me I would answer “pea answer would I me to cooking” “African said you rolecooking—if big African in nut soup”—I imagined this meant adding a dollop of peanut butter to whatever was of knowledge’s most notable effect was to make me spurn any can of mixed nuts that that nuts mixed of can any spurn me make to was effect notable most knowledge’s of included And the while imposter. it was also no news to me that the peanut plays a locally, which is an enormous boon to a barter economy. economy. barter a to boon enormous an is which locally, peanut is mostly treated as what it in fact is, a a is, fact in it what as treated mostly is peanut that—an than the American notion of the peanut was pretty much set: it was, first and foremost,pretty and was first peanut was, the it of set: notion a much American the kind of cheap you track this publication down online, you’ll quickly discover that those recipes arerecipes those that discover quickly you’ll online, down publication this track you turnthe century, By last candy. the and of desserts, goods, baked to devoted largely

Page 

2 cups water [serves 3 or 4] [serves 3 or If the meat you have chosen has bones, you might 1 tablespoon peanut oil cored, and chopped seeded, 1 large onion, coarsely chopped onion, 1 large pound roastedpeanuts in the shell 2 / pounds beef, pork, lamb, chicken, turkey, pork, lamb, chicken, pounds beef, 1 2 1 teaspoon kosher salt (or more1 teaspoon to taste) chopped fresh cilantro or flat-leaf parsley 3 or 4 red or other chile peppers, jalapeño / 1 1 12 or so grape or cherry tomatoes, cut into quarters 12 or so grape or cherry white-fleshed fish—or no meat at all (see note below) fish—or no meat at white-fleshed teaspoon of the salt, bring to a boil, cover, and let simmer until needed, at that at needed, until simmer let and cover, boil, a to bring salt, the of teaspoon 2 To To make stock (optional): / stopping when they’ve been turnedrough-texturedgrit. been into they’ve when stopping meat the in Stir translucent. turns onion • the oil and and Heat the in onion peanut a peppers chile stew pot. Add the chopped until heat moderate-low over these sauté course, of (or, stock skimmed strained, the adding before little a brown this let and shears to snip them in half. Put these in a small pot with the 2 cups of water and 1 fat. excess any away skimming and solids the out straining point Pound skins. their off slip and peanuts the Shell pieces. bite-size into meat the Cut • the nuts in a mortar or grind them in a food processor fitted with its steel blade, • want to use them to make a simple stock. If they are poultry bones, use kitchen because additional oil is added to that product to make it smooth and spreadable. and smooth it make to product that to added is oil additional because and taste peanut less with dish a produce will processing consequent the and That too much peanut-oil richness. Grind your own and you’ll be pleasantly surprised flavor. of depth uncloying and texture nubbly resulting the at Page  Groundnut stew, made with lamb and turnip greens. Groundnut stew, For a vegetarian version of this stew use a green like spinach, . ote N s ’ ook C

eyed peas. eyed grape tomatoes along with the chopped cilantro or parsley. Continue cooking over cooking Continue parsley. or cilantro chopped the with along tomatoes grape very low heat, stirring occasionally, for another 10 minutes, or until the peanuts rice. over serve and seasoning Tastefor sauce. thick a into melded mostly have * black- parboiled and soaked or potato sweet of pieces bite-size either and chopped, plain water) and the remaining salt. When the liquid comes to a boil, lower the heat heat the lower boil, a to comes liquid the When salt. remaining the and water) plain minutes. 20 for cook and cover, simmer, barest the have you until • Now sprinkle in the ground peanuts, mixing well. Add the quartered cherry or Page  - ) v l Zainabu’s African Cookbook v [serves 4] l taste good, depending on the type of tilapia and the v , the Tswana word for “fish”) but now commercially raised Fish in Raw Peanut Sauce Peanut Raw in Fish thiape (Bloomsbury, 2008), a book on eating seafood ethically in a world of (Adapted from Kallon’s Zainabu something something you make with ground peanuts blended into a liquid. Add a lot of liquid and you have a into soup ground or or chopped stew; coarsely add are a peanuts the little find and may you you and have closely morea sauce. Look his should give you some idea of peanut soup’s fluid identity. Essentially, it’s

Peanut sauce made from raw peanuts was a real revelation: delicate and creamy, and delicate revelation: real a was peanuts raw from made sauce Peanut Bottomfeeder around the world. This is adap not and hardy supernaturallybecause is it because of but texture) the soft a with fish’sbland, rather delicious flavor (it’s actually tive. I’ve even read that it can care with which it is raised.* wish We you luck findingWe some. prefer to make catfish. with dish this The African recipe for this dish calls for tilapia, a fish native to Africa (its name is a latinization of

international seafood industry. tilapia into males (so they gain weight faster). I highly recommend that you read this book the of overview clear-eyed,chilling cogent, occasionally lover’s and seafood passionate a for rapidly depleting fish stocks, Taras Grescoe gives tilapia and catfish a qualified thumb’s up, thumb’s a qualified catfish and tilapia gives Grescoe Taras stocks, fish depleting rapidly as long as they are raised in the United States. Tilapia from Asia, he writes, can be treated with antibiotics, pesticides, carbon monoxide, and a synthetic hormone that turns female * In with a fresh peanut taste. It is an especially appealing match when used with chicken chicken with used when match appealing especially an is It taste. peanut fresh a with across well-known much is following which the recipe, in fish—as white-fleshed a or of central Africa. a smooth paste, or used raw instead of roasted. or used raw instead a smooth paste, T Page  -

cup of boiling water. Stir it cup of boiling water. 2 / 1 . It’s relatively easy to slip the skins off roasted off roasted skins the slip to easy relatively It’s . teaspoon lime zest teaspoon lime uts 2 n / 1 pea

cored, seeded, and chopped to 2 pounds tilapia or catfish fillets to 2 pounds tilapia or catfish chopped fresh cilantro or flat-leaf parsley raw

2 g 1 teaspoon kosher salt (or to taste) 1 teaspoon / n 1 i 1 cup water • 2 tablespoons peanut oil water • 2 tablespoons 1 cup 1 1-inch chunk ginger, peeled and minced ginger, 1-inch chunk nn 3 or 4 red chile peppers, jalapeño or other ki 1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped 1 red bell pepper, S : : to garnish: cup (3 ounces) shelled and skinned raw peanuts (see note) (see peanuts raw skinned and shelled ounces) (3 cup ote 2 4 to 6 scallions, trimmed of any wilted tops, then minced then minced wilted tops, of any scallions, trimmed 4 to 6 / N 1 s ’ ook C sauce. (If you’d like to thin the sauce, add another in and touch up the seasoning if necessary.) Garnish with the chopped herb and rice. with serve * • Set the fish fillets into the sauce. They can touch but not overlap. Bring the sauce the Bring overlap. not but touch can They sauce. the into fillets fish the Set • back up to a After simmer. 5 minutes, gently turn the fillets They over. are done fork. a with easily flake parts thickest the when • Divide the fillets onto heated plates, then cover each with itsfair share of the • Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the scal the add hot, is oil the When heat. medium over skillet large a in oil the Heat • salt. and zest, lime pepper, bell red ginger, peppers, chile lions, • Stir in the peanut-water mixture and bring this to a to begin and soften peanuts gentle raw the that so boil. while, the stirring minutes, 5 Let for cook the sauce it. thicken • Using either a food processor fitted with its steel blade or a good-size mortar, grind mortar, good-size a or blade steel its with fitted processor food a either Using • do. you as water of cup the in working paste, rough a into peanuts the Page 10 - - ) Drop the shelled peanuts into into peanuts shelled the Drop . . method

tovetop cup water S 2 Freeze shelled raw peanuts for a few hours (lon hours few a for peanuts raw shelled Freeze / . . The African News Cookbook Preheat a cake pan in a 350°F oven for 5 minutes. minutes. 5 for oven 350°F a in pan cake a Preheat 1 . . 1 onion, chopped cup roasted peanuts 2 / method 1 1 tomato, finely chopped

method

ven reezer O F (Adapted from 1 tablespoon palm or peanut oil (see note) 1 tablespoon palm or peanut [serves 2 as a main course or 4 as a side dish] [serves 2 as a main course 1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped 1 greenpepper, bell Spinach with Roasted Peanuts Roasted with Spinach 2 10-ounce bags fresh spinach, picked over, washed, and finely 2 10-ounce bags fresh spinach, picked over, We’ll get back to raw peanuts in a moment,peanutsrawfirsta backbutto it’s getworthin noting that Afri We’ll as soon as you can, spreading them on a paper towel to dry. to towel paper a on them spreading can, you as soon as with your fingers. (2) (2) fingers. your with soon them Let as evenly. them to pan distribute the shaking skins peanuts, raw shelled the Add the off slipping plate, a on them put then minutes, 5 another for roast (3) handle. to enough cool they’re as them skinning start and sieve a into out them pour minutes, 3 After water. boiling peanuts, but decidedly difficult to get them off raw peanuts—unless you know the the know you off peanuts—unless them raw get to difficult decidedly but peanuts, best that one the choose so work, all they and tricks, three are there Actually, trick. (1) needs. your suits off skins the slip and freezer the from handful the by them remove Then fine). is ger peanut butter. Although spinach is called for in the following recipe, this approach works well with other leafy vegetables, such as collards or turnip greens. it flavor, texture, and some necessary protein. In thischunky instance, in bits thetherubble—notunlike peanutsto reduced rather aren’tbut gritcoarse into pounded can cooks also add a handful of ground roasted peanuts to a vegetable dish to give Page 11 - oil, an kernel http://tinyurl. originated in Africa Africa in originated Elaeis guineensis, Elaeis chopped cup water. water. cup 2 / pinch of nutmeg (optional) of nutmeg pinch The oil palm tree, tree, palm oil The 1

. il O

alm P : : ote 1 teaspoon kosher salt • ground kosher 1 teaspoon to taste black pepper ). 4 N s ’ ook C

Africans often treat unroasted peanuts as they would any other tender legume, tender other any would they as peanuts unroastedtreat often Africans ivory-colored oil chemically extracted from the palm fruit’s seeds. The genuine article article genuine The seeds. fruit’s palm the from extracted chemically oil ivory-colored ( online or markets, Asian and American Latin at obtainable easily is com/7q93 highly saturated (it turns solid at room temperature), is said to contain many health health many contain to said is temperature), room at solid turns (it saturated highly Palm benefits. oil’s redcolorit also distinguishes from genericpalm but but has spread to all tropical regions, where its oil is widely used for cooking and other purposes. It provides a cash crop for poor farmers, who can easily extract the oil Minimally themselves. processed palm oil comes from the fruit of the tree. being It despite has a and, bright tomato-red color and carotenoids a but distinctive in delicate, pine-nutty taste, a rich is It dishes. African in presence characteristic • Stir in the chopped peanuts, the salt and black pepper, and the nutmeg, if using. if nutmeg, the and pepper, black and salt the peanuts, chopped the in Stir • oc stirring minutes, 10 another for simmer dish the let and low to heat the Reduce hot—and Serve dry. getting be to seem contents the if water little a Add casionally. course. main the be to meant is dish the if rice, over * then stir in the minced onion and chopped green When pepper. these are tender, the and tomatoes the add add boil, to start pot the of contents the When high. medium to heat the up Turn • wilts. spinach the until cook and pan, the cover spinach, the • Using either a food processor fitted with its steel blade or a good-size mortar, grind grind mortar, good-size a or blade steel its with fitted processor food a either Using • them spread uneven, noticeably is result the If bits. chunky tiny, into peanuts the knife. chef’s a with out things even and board cutting a on Heat the oil in • this Select pot a over large pot a with medium a low cover. flame, such as black-eyed peas. I noted earlier the African penchant for adding more than one kind of meat to a dish; they do the same with dried peas and beans. One such

Page 12 [serves 4] tablespoon fresh lemon juice 2 cup canned chickpeas, drained cup canned chickpeas, / 3 1 / cup (2 ounces) shelled raw peanuts cup (2 ounces)

3 1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce (or to taste) teaspoon hot pepper sauce / 2 1 / pound fresh or defrosted frozen corn kernels 1

2 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more1 teaspoon kosher salt, to season / 2 scallions, cleaned and trimmed of wilted tops 2 scallions, cleaned and 1 , where dried corn, chickpeas, and raw peanuts are cooked together together cooked are peanuts raw and corn, chickpeas, dried where , 2 tablespoons palm (or peanut) oil (see note above) 2 tablespoons palm (or 6 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley or fresh6 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley cilantro, stemmed 2 green2 red and fresh chiles, cored, seeded, and minced Sweetcorn, Chickpea, & Peanut Salad Peanut & Chickpea, Sweetcorn, mutakura We tried making this by substituting canned hominy for the dried corn, but found but corn, dried the for hominy canned substituting by this making tried We •Meanwhile, coarsely chop the parsley/cilantro leaves with the scallions. Heat the oil oil the Heat scallions. the with stirring, leaves Cook, parsley/cilantro corn. the and chop jalapeño, coarsely minced •Meanwhile, herbs, chopped but the in tender are stir then chiles the skillet, and a in through cooked is corn the until heat, medium-low over • Put the raw peanuts into a small pot, cover with water, add the of teaspoon salt, teaspoon of the add water, with cover pot, small a into peanuts raw the Put • and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a bare simmer and cook the peanuts for 30 handle. to enough cool let and Drain tender. quite until or minutes, corn. This transformed the dish into something memorable, just the thing to serve as as serve to thing the just memorable, something into dish the transformed This corn. being cooked on the grill. to whatever is an accompaniment the result too stodgy for our taste. So we replaced the hominy with fresh kernels of dish is dish at roomand served temperaturesalad. a sort of as Page 13 - kuli . ). Then I put them them put I Then ). s v , as directed in the recipe for recipe the in directed as , Nigerian meat kebabs meat Nigerian l suya, suya, kulikuli see page 24 for more on thi on more for 24 page see hot, but feel free to the adjust heat to your v [serves 4] very l to cook the kebabs tri-tip, or London broil) boiling water as needed 1 tablespoon tomato paste to be prepared in advance to be prepared v Suya (Beef Kebabs) (Beef Suya ), but I have gone part of the way, soaking and squeezing them them squeezing and soaking way, the of part gone have I but ), 5 cups shelled roasted peanuts, skins removed , the mealy residue ( residue mealy the , 2 / 1 1 2 cloves garlic, minced • 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger on page 3, reserving the extracted peanut milk. peanut extracted the reserving 3, page on kulikuli pounds beef, suitable for kebab making (e.g., boneless sirloin, pounds beef, suitable

2 / 1 1

haven’t had the patience yet to extract my own peanut oil from ground-up peanuts peanuts ground-up from oil peanut own my extract to yet patience the had haven’t see recipe on page 2 page on recipe see • Turn the skinned roasted peanuts into peanuts roasted Turnskinned • the akara kuli These kebabs are supposed to are kebabs These be supposed taste/tolerance. own temperature. still crisp. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice and hot pepper sauce. pepper hot and juice lemon the in stir and heat the from Remove crisp. still thoroughly these toss and peanuts boiled the from skins the discard off and Slip • in a salad/serving bowl with the contents of the skillet. Serve warm or at room

to produce, on the one hand, “peanut milk”—very similar to coconut milk—and, on on ( milk—and, coconut to similar milk”—very “peanut hand, one the on produce, to other, the a

back together to create the fiery coating for for coating fiery the create to together back I Page 14 - - - coating is toasted is coating kulikuli in one and the peanut milk in the other. Sea other. the in milk peanut the and one in salt to taste salt to kulikuli u 8 short bamboo skewers (or as needed) (or bamboo skewers 8 short . Arrange them in a single layer on the foil-covered broiler pan and pan broiler foil-covered the on layer single a in them Arrange . kulikuli Tabasco Habanero to taste sauce, added chile-pepper other fiery or If this taste of African peanut cooking whets your appetite, you’ll find entire cat entire find you’ll appetite, your whets cooking peanut African of taste this If but not burnt—about 3 minutes. Then turn the skewers over and repeat. Serve at Serve repeat. and over turnskewers Then the burnt—aboutminutes. not 3 but salad. a with like, you if rice, of top on once, like multiple lollipops. Season these lightly with salt. with lightly these Season lollipops. multiple like • Dip the skewered meat first into the hot-sauce-seasoned peanut milk, then coat with them the until source heat the from inches 3 about them broil • Preheat the broiler to high. Remove the broiler pan and line it with foil. Take two Take foil. with it line and pan broiler the Remove high. to broiler the Preheat • the put and bowls soup wide sauce. hot the of lacings liberal with taste to this son into fit will they so skewers the shorten to shears garden or scissors kitchen Use • the soup bowls. Impale the marinated meat on the skewers, flat sides facing out, • Use a very sharp knife to cut the meat into bite-size scallops, sliced against the your Use paste. tomato the with ginger fresh and garlic minced the Combine grain. hands to thoroughly coat the pieces of meat with this, then let sit for 30 minutes temperature.room at bulent times how much ordinary foodstuffs have to offer if we pause long enough to give them their due weight. egories that I haven’t even touched on—snacks, sweet stuff, and more complicated dishes in which peanuts are pounded with other things to make steamed cakes and the like—all well worth exploring. Either way, it’s good to be reminded in these tur

Page 15 -

binch ,

(1949). (1949). … … akla was ; the , gbegiri tinko akara accra , incredibly tasty fried balls balls fried tasty incredibly , . Dining with My Friends Friends My with Dining akara are also known as known also are Aké: The Years of Childhood Aké: The Years samsa , akara seller who passed in full lyrical cry kwasi jogi , kara ; roastingcorn,; or freshvegetables ; with the hard-fried lean meat of koosé , —Wole Soyinka, —Wole ogiri seller, her fried beancakes still surreptitiously A kose , kasada akara koose , kosai

“high” rotted cheese smell of smell rottedcheese “high” fried without any frills, its oil-impregnated flavours filledjostled for the markets attention and with the tang of cakes roasting which coconut we slices called within farina For there they all were, the together, beneath the backyard wall at a regular hour of the moments morning, later followed by only the oozing and perfuming the air with groundnut oil. Even when the

, bean balls,

In fact, despite their undisputed African origin, I first encountered them years It is just this sort of legerdemain that produces produces that legerdemain of sort this just is It am drawn to all sorts of dishes, but the ones that excite me most are often un

believably simple—the ones that take nothing and and away, with breath a my takes deft always This turndelicious. memorably the of into the it transform hand a toast, making of art example—the about—for endlessly write to able I’m why it’s

i

*Africa is a continent of many languages, and even those who speak the same language may language same the speak who those even and languages, many of continent a is *Africa Africa, In thing. same the for termsdifferent use akara writes of a visit to Key West, where he and his wife his and he where West, Key to visit a of writes ago when I came across this passage in Crosby Gaige’s Gaige’s Crosby in passage He this across Distillers. came Schenley I at when ago executive top a Palmer, Walter was instance this in friend The and South America, changing its name as it did so, but never its MO. MO. its never but so, did it as name its changing America, South and of ground-up black-eyed peas.* And I’m not the only one who feels this way. Thanks to to Thanks way. this feels who one only the not I’m And peas.* black-eyed ground-up of Caribbean the through all ago long spread snack delectable this diaspora, African the I think painfully obvious. subject that most would Page 16 - - temps bollue originated bollas on the same footing as footing same the on akara (most of them close cousins— close them of (most akara . We would take some champagne or beer beer or champagne some take would We . Bollas ). To this day, many Cubans are convinced that convinced are Cubans many day, Tothis ). have started to appear in this country as a vegetarian option, rather while they sip champagne and watch the sun setting over the Gulf of Akara is one of many Latin American termsfor American Latin many of one is in Key West. to a bar to eat them with their drinks. We would sit in the Cuban’s shack and shack Cuban’s the in sit would We drinks. their with them eat to bar a to eat a dozen of them before going somewhere for This dinner. Cuban told me this recipe was brought to Cuba either by the African slaves or the Chinese. which.* He did not know enjoyed a local delicacy called called delicacy local a enjoyed and call at a went Cuban’s then shack, where and his these wife sat bought on people a little Many screened fat. veranda boiling into mixture the dropping bollas Palmer got the recipe, but it was so simple that I couldn’t believe it was complete. complete. was it believe couldn’t I that simple so was it but recipe, the got Palmer You don’t have to romanticize the food of the poor (which, let’s face it, has face been let’s the of food the (which, poor to have romanticize don’t You That wasn’t what happened. Instead, I actually ate one of the things, and it was it and things, the of one ate actually I Instead, happened. what wasn’t That Bollas

in China, for reasons but won’t. that I could pursue, * bollillas bolitas, bollos, los, moments when the poorest peasant’s taste buds jump up taste and down out of de sheer peasant’s when the poorest moments of what I had not the merely persuasiveness It I this—and light. was because believe throughout history—and at best—endless bowls of porridge and watery soup) to believe believe to soup) watery and porridge of bowls best—endless at history—and throughout societies, in shattered living those even to everyone, happen epiphanies culinary that put down a local enterprise, but these people have put have people these but enterprise, local a down put supermarket buttermilk biscuits. already made, spongy and cold, from a tray next to the salads at the deli, and find they find and deli, the at salads the to next tray a from cold, and spongy made, already to corn hate weep) I (I green peas. but or chili niblets fiery of bits with not aredotted terrible. them purchase live—you I where least means—at This snack. African tasty a as than some day I would stumble upon the hidden ingredient, the unrevealed trick, and make make and trick, unrevealed the ingredient, hidden the upon stumble would I day some then. things delicious these I was certain there had to be a secret that that Cuban couple refused to reveal… that that reveal… to refused couple Cuban that that a secret be to had there certain I was Mexico from the screened veranda of a humble fry shack—a rare glimpse of perdu Oddly touching, this image of a liquor company exec and his wife snacking on freshly on snacking wife his and exec company liquor a of image this touching, Oddly made Page 17 - -

in . They . acara acarajé The Africa Cookbook —Jessica Harris, —Jessica Harris, . Their cost lies strictly in the labor it takes to takes it labor the in strictly lies cost Their . akara African-Atlantic world. They turn up in Brazil as the ubiquitous the as Brazil in up turn They world. African-Atlantic are found throughout the Caribbean, and there’s even a recipe for Traditional in western Nigeria, these bean fritters have crossed the nation’s borders and the Atlantic Ocean to become one of the defining dishes of the the kosher cookbook of Curaçao’s Mikwe Israel Synagogue, one of the Western Western the of one Synagogue, Israel Mikwe Curaçao’s of cookbook kosher the Hemisphere’s oldest!

Doing this myself, I discovered that there was something sweetly peaceful about peaceful sweetly something was there that discovered I myself, this Doing The labor is something else. After the black-eyed peas (or other dried beans) have beans) dried other (or peas black-eyed the After else. something is labor The

f one ever wanted a single defining example of third-world street food, it would be than choice better a thus—es find and to hard quickly, cook They cheap. and basic are ingredients Their them. make read—that I found these pallid things a wretched simulacrum of something that ought ought that something of simulacrum wretched a things pallid these found I read—that heaven. of glimpse momentary a provided have to ful chores. I began to chafe. I wrapped up the black-eyed peas in a dish towel and taking up a handful of black-eyed peas and rubbing them between my palms, again peace sweetly on big that all not I’m Unfortunately, again. and again, and again, and with fingers or spoon and cook them in the boiling oil. with fingers or spoon so that the skins float free and can be poured off. Then the peas, still wet from their seasonings with paste, a into pounded vigorously and mortar a into put are soaking, fritters individual the out scoop to is remains that all Now last. the toward in worked been soaked overnight, their skins are removed. The usual way of doing this is to rub to is this doing of way usual The removed. are skins their overnight, soaked been them between the palms until the skins slip off, then submerge the peas in water serve them forth. oil or peanut oil—is produced locally. And the required equipment to comprises leaves flat large some perforated ladle—with a little and tin kerosene clean a than more I pecially per fritter—demand minimal fuel. The oil used to fry them—either red palm Page 18

- - have float away. Happily, on my second at not (2005). The kitchen minimalist is not one to spend to one not is minimalist kitchen The (2005). —has his batter ... and I scorned him for it. I just have a pleasing lightness and sweet, clean taste. But But taste. clean sweet, and lightness pleasing a have did whaaaapppp that I consulted, the skins did What I do know is that I really love the delicate fresh-bean savor of the skinless the of savor fresh-bean delicate the love really I that is know do I What Of course, one method was more authentic than the other … but what did that really really that did what but … other the than authentic more was method one course, Of I did all this knowing full well that Mark Bittman offers a much simpler approach simpler much a offers Bittman Mark that well full knowing this all did I batch a making by this confirm to not me of remiss been have would it However, At last I was at the point where I could get to work with the mortar and pestle. The next step was to put the resulting rubble in a bowl and fill this withcold akara The Best Recipes in the World World the in Recipes Best The to skin their beans. But once they have access to food processors, will the time-consum the will processors, food to access have they once But beans. their skin to idea. no have I survive? method traditional ing mean? Put the unskinned beans into a mortar and you face a nearly impossible task: it’s it’s task: impossible nearly a face you and mortar a into beans cooks unskinned African the native Put So mean? porridge. into wrap plastic of bits little pound to trying like the pulverized skins in the other version provided a texture and a robust flavor note of note flavor robust a and texture a provided version other the in skins pulverized the own. their What I hadn’t expected was that the dueling fritters would prove equally if differently if differently equally prove would fritters dueling the that was expected I What hadn’t batch traditional The delicious. of each side by side. It was no surprise that Bittman’s method was ridiculously easy. easy. was ridiculously method Bittman’s that It by was no surprise of side side. each knew the result couldn’t have the delicacy you would get by painstakingly removing the skins. in an hour massaging black-eyed peas; he simply dumps them, skins and all, into the food processor and— exactly easy (and Mr. Dishtowel may never recover). Dishtowel (and Mr. exactly easy this made the task possible—at least once I thought to cover the contents with my friend Mr. Dishtowel to keep bits of bean from flying around the room—it was not Our kitchen contains a very large, very solid composite-stone Thai mortar, but while but mortar, Thai composite-stone solid very large, very a contains kitchen Our for floated skins the fingers, my with water the stirred gently I if that discovered I tempt, skim some them off. enough for me to quickly up just long water, letting the skins float away. Despite this being promised in almost every recipe every almost in promised being this Despite away. float skins the letting water, gave the bundle a few slaps against the counter—then, the results showing promise, showing results the counter—then, the against slaps few a bundle the gave a few more.quite Page 19 would be very good akara cup of the soaking liquid. If you’ve decided you’ve If liquid. soaking the of cup 2 / 1 Akara are street food, the best way to serve them is with with is them serve to way best the food, street are 1 teaspoon kosher salt : a variety of bottled hot sauces : a variety of bottled hot akara oil for deep frying (see note) [makes about 48 fritters (see note)] [makes about 48 fritters to serve leaves from 3 or 4 sprigs of fresh cilantro 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger (optional) 2 or 3 scallions, trimmed of any wilted ends 2 or 3 scallions, trimmed still have a vital life outside of any recipe, native cooks go their own their go cooks native recipe, any of outside life vital a have still 8 ounces dried black-eyed peas, soaked overnight8 ounces dried black-eyed 1 green and 1 red chile pepper, halved, cored, and seeded 1 green1 red and chile pepper, akara essentially different from falafel, rather than just a variation of it. So ... please ... So it. of variation a just different than essentially rather falafel, from • Drain the black-eyed peas, reserving peas, black-eyed the Drain • below. instructions indented the past skip skins, the removing bother to not • Wrap the damp pound black-eyed fiercely) not peas (but firmly in escapes, nothing a so ends dish twisted towel. the of Set hold keeping this on the counter and, served falafel-style, in a pita with chopped salad and hot sauce. hot and salad chopped with pita a in falafel-style, served powder or a beaten egg. The directions below give you the essence of the thing and thing the of essence the you give below directions The egg. beaten a or powder for (online) bibliography annotated issue’s this See fritters. delicious truly produce Since exploration. further an assortment of different hot sauces (gently hot and fiery, red and green, simple and complex) and let eaters season to taste. I imagine Because way when making them. You can find recipes using, say, double-acting baking try them both ways. I hate wrestling both ways. try them myself. all by this conundrum with paste. paste. It’s something you’re tempted to just sit down and eat with a spoon. It makes akara Page 20 - • Test the oil by dropping in a single fritter. The oil should bubble up vigorously and and vigorously up bubble should oil The fritter. single a in dropping by oil side, the a Test to • minutes 2 about it Cook immediately. color turning start ladle should slotted fritter a the with out fritter the Lift brown. hazelnut nice a is it until once, turning • Dampen the edge of a paper towel with a little (cool!) cooking oil. Use this to lightly lightly to this Use oil. cooking (cool!) little a with towel paper a of edge the Dampen • just process this out repeating teaspoon), Scoop measuring (not oil. teaspoon hot a regular of bowl the oil the into smoothly dropping keeps batter the that so needed find I as size. set no is (There spoon. the of bowl the in comfortably fit to batter enough with.) deal to easier smaller—teaspoon-size—ones towels or brown wrapping paper. wrapping brown or towels have you If inches. 2 of depth the to pot steep-sided heavy, a in oil frying the Pour • 365°F, to oil the Heat thermometer. deep-fat-frying a attach should), you (and one or until the surface quivers and the oil gives off that fried-food aroma. Adjust the hot. too it’s smoke to starts oil the If temperature. this sustain to heat confetti. Next, add enough of the reserved soaking liquid, a tablespoon at a time, to to time, a at tablespoon a liquid, soaking reserved the of enough add Next, confetti. whisk large a with its to hold enough dry but still together to vigorously cling enough liquid just it paste the make beat and bowl a into batter the scrape Finally, shape. fritter. lighter a for makes and air incorporates This so. or minutes 3 for • Preheat the oven to low. Insert a cookie sheet covered with two layers of paper • Put the black-eyed peas in the bowl of a food processor fitted with its steel blade and and blade steel its peppers. chile with and leaves, cilantro scallions, the chop Coarsely • fitted processor food a of bowl the in peas black-eyed (if the ginger Put minced • and flavorings chopped the Add paste. coarse a into them of pulverize scattering a like look should They in. them blend to button pulse the using used), • Turn everything into a mixing Stir bowl the and mix cover with plenty of water. float they offas skim skins to the sieve small a use and hand one with gently ture can you matter, the about strongly feel you If this. do you as them discarding free, pinch off any remaining skins before draining the water away. See note below on pestle. and mortar a using them all over with a rolling pin or other kitchen implement. necessary Check not It’s beans. the through the fingers your running strokes, contents ten every after them. of most just skin, every remove to Page 21

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at f - eep D If you skinned your your If skinned you . . pestle to serve three or four as a

Skimming the loose skins. d n a

akara batter into patties and fry these in these fry and patties into batter ortar M akara akara Obviously your number of fritters may vary. How vary. may of fritters number your Obviously . . t n ou c

ritter : : F otes N s ’ are added. However, you should use whatever vessel makes you comfortable. comfortable. you makes vessel whatever use should you However, added. are ook Black-eyed peas with skins loosened. C inch of hot oil in a skillet or wok. or skillet a in oil hot of inch

2 / it it holds the heat and keeps the oil temperature from wildly fluctuatingwhen the akara form frying, the deep-fat like If don’t you 1 We do our deep-fat frying in a heavy, cast-iron, enamel-coated dutch oven, because because oven, dutch enamel-coated cast-iron, heavy, a in frying deep-fat our do We ever, this ever, amount of batter will produce enough authentic the as up appetizers. and to eight course main in hog whole go to free feel pestle, and mortar large a have and beans processor. food the recommend I both, done Having department. ity will stick to each other. Also, too many fritters will cool the oil and slow the cooking, cooking, the slow and oil the cool will fritters many too Also, other. each to stick will paper-cov the to it transfer cooked, the is in fritter a as described soon As as results. once, greasy to at leading serve cooked, are all When oven. the in sheet cookie ered above. heading * and, after letting it briefly cool, cut it in half. Make sure it has cooked through, then then through, cooked has it sure Make half. in it cut cool, briefly it letting after and, necessary. if seasoning and/or heat Adjust seasoning. for it taste fritters the or pan the crowd Don’t oil. hot the into batter of spoonfuls so or 6 Drop • Page 22 a chile-intensive avocado dressing. Served with pita bread, chopped salad, and Batter without skins on left; batter with skins on right. Batter without skins on left; batter Black-eyed pea batter with chiles, etc. Black-eyed pea batter with chiles, Akara without skins in batter on left; akara with skins in batter on right. Page 23 - - poix-zié- is a small fritter or fritter small a is akra ). , little black peas ( peas black little , itself, follow the above recipe after recipe above the follow itself, (1890), (1890), Lafcadio Hearn gives us a vision akra-cribîche sold by street vendors in Martinique that kulikuli choux-caraïbes than I could ever hope to encompass in a single a in encompass to hope ever could I than akra— 1 large egg (optional) 1 large akara Kulikuli Akara Kulikuli ;—they sell at a cent apiece. The The apiece. cent a at sell ;—they are made just like the black-eyed pea version, the following the version, pea black-eyed the like just made are 8 ounces roasted but unsalted peanuts akras boiling water poured from a kettle as needed oil for deep-fat frying (see note in akara recipe) —or, —or, as he spells it, kulikuli akara kulikuli . Serve in the same way. same the in Serve . , “black-eyed peas”), or of crawfish ( , “black-eyed [tiny fresh[tiny brains, beans, fish], akara When commercially produced, this is sold mostly as cattle feed, but when the the when but feed, cattle as mostly sold is this produced, commercially When Everybody eats Everybody codfish, different others, fifty things—among of made be may which pancake, titiri nouè

Two Years in Indies Two the Years French West recipe is abbreviated. After preparing the preparing After abbreviated. is recipe the indented instructions, replacing the ground black-eyed pea mixture with the kulikuli Because

n of the all edible things: to embrace seems tage of it. One of the simplest is to mold it into little balls and fry these, sometimes in in sometimes these, fry and balls little into it mold to is simplest the of One it. of tage oil. just-extracted the kulikuli. advan take to devised been have recipes various kitchen, home the in extracted is oil more precisely from the residue that remains after these have been processed to make make to processed been called have these is after remains cake,” that residue “peanut the from precisely technically more residue, crumbly resulting the Nigeria, In oil. peanut the beans may be different, the recipes are very much the same. However, one particu range from versions made of legumes essay. Even split peas. Still, while soybeans to one However, same. the much very are recipes the different, be may beans the peanuts—or from made is it because attention my caught sort this of fritter African lar In Africa, too, there is more to more is there too, Africa, In I Page 24 into

u . kulikuli recipe, pulverizing the pulverizing recipe, akara mixture did not cohere into fritter balls as easily as the ground the as easily as balls fritter into cohere not did mixture ) and proceed with the with proceed and ) w same flavorings/seasonings as in akara as in akara flavorings/seasonings same recipe kulikuli see page 13 belo 13 page see I found the found I together stick things help to egg beaten a in mixed I so peas, black-eyed wetting/squeezing/wringing wetting/squeezing/wringing process two times, scraping the extracted liquid into pressing. each after bowl separate the • After the third time, reserve the (delicious) rendered liquid for another purpose ( reached. is directions the in point that when processor food the in powder coarse a mixture. Holding this over the bowl, twist the towel ends as liquid tightly any as you away can scrape to to spatula flexible a Use possible. as liquid much as extract towel. the of outside the to clinging • Transfer all the rendered liquid into a separate, smaller bowl, then spread the the before.Repeat as bowl larger the mixtureinto peanut squeezed the with towel tiny bits. Drape a clean dish towel over a large mixing bowl and turn the crushed peanuts into this. Moisten them with the boiling water, without making the mixture wetting soupy. Firmly knead the result with your hands everything or a well so. or minute a for spatula flexible • Gather up the ends of the towel and twist them capturing together, the peanut • Use your fingers to slip off and discard the skins from the peanuts. Put these into these Put peanuts. the from skins the discard and off slip to fingers your Use • into them pulverize and blade steel its with fitted processor food a or mortar large a Page 25

(1933) , by Ellen Gibson z

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y A West African Cookbook A West The Gold Coast Cookery Book The Gold Coast 6 pounds raw peanuts • cold water cold • peanuts raw pounds 6 Out of Africa of Out Homemade Peanut Oil Peanut Homemade From is clear enough, I’m not sure how smooth the sailing will be if idea Adapted from Lamb Stew with Squash and Black-eyed Peas Black-eyed and Squash with Stew Lamb Astute readers (and haters of the stinking rose) may have noticed that this may be the the be may this that noticed have may rose) stinking the of haters (and readers Astute Heat this until the water boils off, leaving nothing but oil. Bottle this and cork it. cork and this Bottle oil. but nothing leaving off, boils water the until this Heat into two buckets. two into full. are both until buckets the into water cold stir Gradually • top. the to rise to oil the allow to hours 8 for stand mixture the Let • water. of tablespoons 2 with along saucepan, small a into it pour and off this Skim • make peanut oil at home. The following method was contributed by “Miss Spears,” “Miss by contributed was method following The home. at oil peanut make and while the instructions. her follow to try you • Pound the raw peanuts, then grind them into coarse meal and divide the result This recipe is included because you, like me, may have wondered how you might Page 26 - -

teaspoon dried thyme dried teaspoon ] 2 / 4 1 serves [ ground allspice and black pepper black and allspice ground each deseeded and finely chopped finely and deseeded to 2 pounds shoulder lamb chops lamb shoulder pounds 2 to ever with no garlic in any of the recipes … except this one. I one. this except … recipes the of any in garlic no with ever 2 / 1 tablespoon palm or vegetable oil vegetable or palm tablespoon 1 1 2 cups cubed winter squash (see note) (see squash winter cubed cups 2 1 8 ounces (about 1 cup) black-eyed peas black-eyed cup) 1 (about ounces 8 ooking teaspoon teaspoon C 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided • 4 cups water cups 4 • divided salt, kosher teaspoons 2 1 or 2 medium-hot chile peppers (like Serrano), (like peppers chile medium-hot 2 or 1 2 1 onion, chopped • 2 garlic cloves, finely minced finely cloves, garlic 2 • chopped onion, 1 / 1 1 tablespoon tomato paste • paste tomato tablespoon 1 imple S moderate heat. Tip in and the cook, chopped stir onion, garlic, and chile pepper, ring, until the onion is translucent. Add the pieces of lamb and sauté these for 5 cover setting, lowest its to heat the Reduce spatula. turninga minutes, with them the Check pot, the and meat slow once cook or for twice half during an this hour. dry. cooking is it if stock the of spoonfuls few a in stir and time • Cut the meat from the lamb chops and put the bones and trimmings into a sauce a into trimmings and bones the put and chops lamb the from meat the Cut • pan. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt and 3 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat until the water is at a skim simmer, away any scum, and let cook while lamb. the preparing • Heat the palm or vegetable oil in a Dutch oven or similar heavy pot over low to • Pick these over and rinse well. Cover with water and soak overnight.soak and water with Cover well. rinse and over these Pick • speed things up by putting them in with the lamb bones—if you don’t mind fishing those those fishing mind don’t you bones—if lamb the with in them putting by pot. stew up the to peas things the and speed stock the add you before just them discarding and out gather that, on the whole, Africans have never warmed to garlic; dishes get their flavor flavor their get dishes garlic; of to warmed issue never first have quite Africans works garlic whole, the the But on that, powder. curry gather occasionally and, ginger, and can chiles you from peas; jolt black-eyed the on depends dish this of time cooking The • here. nicely To make the meal: the make To The night before: night The Page 27 -

z by Tebereh Inquai

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[serves 4] [serves z cup raw white rice white raw cup

2 / The original recipe calls for pumpkin, but we rarely we but pumpkin, for calls recipe original The A Taste of Africa, A Taste 1 . 1 onion, finely chopped finely onion, 1 1 teaspoon curry powder curry teaspoon 1 y deseeded and finely chopped finely and deseeded teaspoon kosher salt • 4 cups water cups 4 • salt kosher teaspoon 2 tablespoons palm or peanut oil peanut or palm tablespoons 2 1 pound fresh tomatoes, chopped tomatoes, fresh pound 1 2 squash /

1 1 1 green pepper, deseeded and finely chopped finely and deseeded pepper, green 1 inter 1 or 2 medium-hot chile peppers (like serrano), (like peppers chile medium-hot 2 or 1 Adapted from W : Coconut and Kidney Bean Soup Bean Kidney and Coconut ote N s ’ ook C

This tasty soup is ready to serve in about the time it takes the rice to cook. If you need you If cook. to rice the takes it time the about in serve to ready is soup tasty This white- firm a of pieces bite-size or shrimp of pound a add meal, substantial more a beans. kidney and tomatoes as the time same at the catfish like fish fleshed find any decent-tasting pumpkins on the market—even the so-called “sugar” pump “sugar” so-called the market—even the on pumpkins decent-tasting any find kins are lackluster in taste (and pathetically unsweet). Unless you’ve had better butternutacornseeded or squash. and pared using recommend we luck, are tender but not mushy. not but tender are minutes. 15 about tender, are too, these, until simmer and cubes squash the Add 4 rice. with Serve * • At the end of the half hour of cooking, strain the stock (discarding the bones) and and bones) the (discarding stock the strain cooking, of hour half the of end these the At add • and peas black-eyed soaking the Drain lamb. the with pot the into it pour the beans pepper, black allspice, thyme, paste, tomato the by followed the well, as pot the to until cooking Continue sauce. pepper hot and salt, of teaspoon remaining Page 28 - - -

teaspoon of the the of teaspoon 2 z / 1

) is one of three hundred melon species species melon hundred three of one is ) soup comes in many guises. But almost almost But guises. many in comes soup y

egusi z

Our local Asian grocery sells half-size cans of coconut of cans half-size sells grocery Asian local Our y . milk

Egusi (Pumpkin Seed) Soup Seed) (Pumpkin Egusi Colocynthis citrullus lanatus citrullus Colocynthis oconut cup canned coconut milk (see note) (see milk coconut canned cup 1 16-ounce can red kidney beans kidney red can 16-ounce 1 : C : 2 / 1 ote N s ’ ook C

always they contain meat (usually stew beef), and shrimp (often the extremely pun extremely the (often shrimp and beef), stew (usually accord meat evolved contain they has always and ours, of favorite a become has soup This variety). dried think I gent which beef, cubed of instead ground of use the in conspicuously ingly—most taste. meaty richer a and texture interesting more a soup the gives and extremely bitter. The seeds are the important thing: they are they as eaten thing: snacks, are The seeds the important bitter. and extremely substi we necessity, of Out oil. source cooking a produce to have processed and you If cooking, in used well. quite work would which seeds, result the pumpkin salted yourself), and them roasted hull tuted to prepared are (or seeds pumpkin hulled raw of soup, peanut Like authentic. more be The egusi melon ( melon egusi The dry is flesh its but watermelon, round a small, like looks It Africa. tropical in found * perfecta amount. is which ounces, 5.6 weigh that milk of salt, and sauté until the vegetables are soft. Add the tomatoes and tomatoes the Add soft. are vegetables the until sauté and beans salt, of kidney the add Then minutes. more few a for cooking continue water, of cups 3 remaining and milk, coconut liquid, their with along and seasoning, for taste rice, the in Stir minutes. 10 for simmer and serving. beforethoroughly heat salt and 1 cup of the water. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat to to heat the reduce cover, boil, a to Bring water. the of cup 1 and salt and cook for Then turn 15 setting, the lowest minutes. off the heat needed. until sit it let and teaspoon • remaining Heat the the cooking the oil and in a heavy powder, saucepan. curry Add peppers, the onion, chile green pepper, • Rinse the rice well, put it into a small pot with with pot small a into it put well, rice the Rinse • Page 29

4] serves [ 3 tomatoes, chopped tomatoes, 3 pound lean ground beef ground lean pound 1 pound fresh spinach fresh pound 1 2 / 1 deseeded and finely chopped finely and deseeded 2 tablespoons palm or peanut oil peanut or palm tablespoons 2 pound raw shrimp (any size) in shell in size) (any shrimp raw pound 2 cup roasted and salted pumpkin seeds pumpkin salted and roasted cup 2 / 3 cups water • 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher teaspoons 2 • water cups 3 1 / 1 1 teaspoon salt • 1 large onion, finely chopped finely onion, large 1 • salt teaspoon 1 2 or 3 medium-hot chile peppers (like serrano), (like peppers chile medium-hot 3 or 2 • Strain out and discard the shrimp shells, then pour the stock into the Dutch oven. oven. Dutch the into stock the pour then shells, shrimp pot, the the discard to and out tomatoes Strain • chopped and shrimp, peeled seeds, pumpkin pulverized the Add minutes. 10 for cook and well, stir and bowl the of out spinach the lift spatula, or spoon slotted a using Meanwhile, • and cook until soft, then stir in the ground beef, using a spatula to breakas to up spatula groundit a the using in stir beef, then soft, until cook and brown. to begins meat the until cooking Continue possible. as much fitted processor food a or mortar a into seeds pumpkin roasted the put Meanwhile, • powder. coarse a to them reduce and blade steel its with coverable pot. Set this over high heat until the spinach wilts and collapses. This takes takes This collapses. and wilts spinach the until heat high over this Set pot. coverable mixing a to spinach the transfer to spatula or spoon slotted a Use minutes. 5 about shells. shrimp the with pot the into water spinach remaining the pour and bowl the Dutch oven • dry with Wipe a paper towel and pour in the palm or peanut oil. peppers moderate heat. Add the chopped onion and chile Heat the pot over low to • Peel the shrimp. If large, cut each piece in half. Put the shells into a medium pot medium a into shells the Put half. in piece each cut large, If shrimp. the Peel • with the 3 cups of water and 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil and simmer until needed. heavy, similar or oven Dutch a to it transfer and briefly, it drain spinach, the Wash • Page 30

, by Zainabu Kallon , by Zainabu

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4] y Sweet Potato Rice Potato Sweet Zainabu’s African Cookbook Zainabu’s African serves [ 1 sweet potato sweet 1 1 cup raw white rice white raw cup 1 2 tablespoons peanut oil peanut tablespoons 2 1 small onion, finely chopped finely onion, small 1 deseeded and finely chopped finely and deseeded Adapted from cups water • 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher teaspoon 1 • water cups 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger fresh grated tablespoons 2 cup unsweetened shredded coconut shredded unsweetened cup pound raw shrimp (any size) in shell in size) (any shrimp raw pound 2 2 2 / / / 1 1 1 2 3 or 4 medium-hot chile peppers (like serrano), (like peppers chile medium-hot 4 or 3 4 scallions, trimmed of any wilted tops, and chopped and tops, wilted any of trimmed scallions, 4 the sharpness of the fresh ginger and the heat of the chile peppers, so don’t stint on those. Zainabu adds sea scallops, as well, but we felt they were too delicately or salad of dish side a add and shrimp of amount the Double dish. the for flavored course. main a as serve easily could this and greens cooked This side dish offers an intriguing balance of flavors and textures, as well as being a being as well as textures, and flavors of balance intriguing an offers dish side This with balanced well be to needs coconut shredded the of sweetness The treat. visual dish some fire, and serve. and fire, some dish the spinach and stir this into the soup as well. Continue cooking until the pumpkin pumpkin onto a the cutting until board, pouring cooking any Continue remaining well. liquid into as the soup soup. Coarsely the chop into this stir and spinach the seeds have slightly thickened the soup and the flavors are nicely mingled,about 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning, adding some hot sauce, if necessary, to give the Page 31 - ” To ” , sub-Sa , fufu

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y A West African Cookbook A West Mais non, c’est complètement fufu complètement c’est non, Mais ’s distinctive slightly gummy texture. texture. gummy slightly distinctive ’s The trick with this dish is to have the rice still wet when you stir

: Abala ~ Savory Cream of Rice of Cream Savory ~ Abala Adapted from fufu ote N s ’ ook C

stew stew or fishin raw Whensauce.peanut you read that the callsrecipefor cooking cream of rice for two hours, while the (at package least for kind) “ the conventional yourself, to mutter doubt no you’ll seconds, 30 says “ reply, only can I which with dish the This dish, popular in Nigeria, Ghana, and Sierra Leone, is a variant of of variant a is Leone, Sierra and Ghana, groundnut Nigeria, in example, popular dish, for This to, dish side a as Serve dish. starch signature Africa’s haran when I add the last ingredients, so that I can splash some in if necessary. if in some splash can I that so ingredients, last the add I when • After the rice has cooked for 15 minutes, gently but thoroughly stir in the cut up cut the in stir thoroughly but gently minutes, 15 for cooked has rice the After • reserved shrimp, shredded sweet potato and chopped scallion. Continue cooking tender. potato sweet of shreds the and done is rice the until * in the shredded sweet potato. I find it helps to have some water boiling in a kettle and cook for 15 minutes. 15 for cook and grating the or grater a using it shred and potato sweet the peel cooks, this While • for grated cabbage to size in similar be resultshould The processor. food a of disk coleslaw. • Heat the peanut oil in a pot over a medium flame. When it is hot, stir in the rice the add Then translucent. is onion the until stirring Keep onion. chopped the and boil. full a to bring and stock shrimp strained setting, lowest its to heat reduce Cover, pepper. chile and ginger, coconut, the Add • • Peel the shrimp, cutting their flesh into bite-size pieces if they are large. Put their their Put bring large. are they salt, if pieces and bite-size into flesh water their cutting shrimp, the the Peel Add • pot. small a into liquid remaining any with along shells out Strain stock. shrimp simple a make to minutes 20 to 15 for cook and boil, a to shells. the discard and Page 32

- brown

, by Josie Stow z

4] y serves [ onion, minced onion, z 2 /

1 For more flavor (and nutrition), use cream of cream use nutrition), (and flavor more For . y The African Safari Kitchen ice deseeded and finely chopped finely and deseeded 1 cup cream of rice (see note) (see rice of cream cup 1 R

of

3 medium-hot chile peppers (like serrano), (like peppers chile medium-hot 3 4 cups boiling water • 1 kosher teaspoon salt teaspoon kosher 1 • water boiling cups 4 ream Green Lentil & Banana Salad Banana & Lentil Green 2 tablespoons palm or peanut oil (palm is traditional) is (palm oil peanut or palm tablespoons 2 : C : Adapted from ote N s ’ ook C

Bananas don’t often find their way into savory dishes, but they work nicely in this in nicely work they but dishes, savory into way their find often don’t Bananas and balsamic the of sharpness suave the by matched is sweetness their where one, the nutty chewiness of the lentils. Note that the salad should be served at “cellar cold. not but temperature” rice—some brands to look for are Erewhon organic Brown Rice Cream, Bob’s Red Mill Red Bob’s Cream, Rice Brown organic Erewhon are for look to brands rice—some Cereal. Rice Brown Hot Organic Purely Lundberg and Farina, Rice Brown organic * • The mixture must now be steamed. In Africa, batter it the prepare and cornhusks would substitute could cooks be Western leaves. wrapped banana in warmed aluminum oiled lightly in mush the wrap to is course simpler the but tamales, warm, like or hot Serve hours. 2 for Steam steamer. a in place and edges, the crimp foil, preferred. as onion and chile pepper. When these have softened, pour in the cream of rice, mixing rice, of • cream Pour the the oil in into a pour small pot softened, and have set over these medium-low When heat. Stir in pepper. the minced chile and onion water, boiling the in pour slowly Then do. you as ingredients other the with well it thicken water, the all absorb gradually will rice of cream The while. the all stirring potatoes. mashed of consistency the to ing Page 33

or , by Josie Stow z

4] 4] y

serves serves [ [ z

1 cup green lentils green cup 1 cup raw cashew nuts cashew raw cup red bell pepper, diced diced pepper, bell red 2 2 hour before serving. before hour 2 / / 1 1 / y 1 teaspoon crushed garlic crushed teaspoon 1 The African Safari Kitchen 1 salt and black pepper to taste to pepper black and salt 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar balsamic tablespoons 2 cup unsweetened shredded coconut shredded unsweetened cup 1 or 2 tablespoons fresh cilantrofresh tablespoons 2 or 1 4 / 2 semi-ripe bananas, peeled and sliced and peeled bananas, semi-ripe 2 1 flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped coarsely leaves, parsley flat-leaf Tanzanian Pineapple Dessert Pineapple Tanzanian 1 tablespoon olive oil • 1 small red onion, chopped chopped onion, red small 1 • oil olive tablespoon 1 Adapted from 1 ripe pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into bite-size pieces bite-size into cut and cored, peeled, pineapple, ripe 1 and pepper to taste. to pepper and for refrigerator the in Cool • simmer until just tender. tender. just until simmer cool. to bowl mixing a to them transfer and lentils the Drain • in for and stir • garlic In a pepper, pan, heat the oil bell olive and the sauté onion, frying Carefully lentils. cooled the into this turn then soft, until or minutes, 2 about with salt Season herb. and minced toss with the vinegar then lightly the bananas, • Place the lentils in a saucepan, cover generously with water, bring to bring a with • water, and boil, in the Place generously cover lentils a saucepan, Page 34 , - akara

z

cup cream cup 2 y / 1

(directly to the left) for Western alter z abala Moyin Moyin (1) just out of the oven; (2) cut into cubes and 1 shot white rum, or to taste to or rum, white shot 1 served with a simple sauce of chopped tomatoes and chiles

y 2 tablespoons raw granulated cane sugar cane granulated raw tablespoons 2 cup choppedcrumbledsardinescupcannedcornedor beef. 4 / which is then eaten seasonedeatenthensauces.variouswithSeehotiswhich A Note on Moyin Moyin Moyin on Note A 1 decidethat really needs anything additional at all. natives, but in this instance steam it for only 40 minutes. The result is peaseunlikenotpudding,a quiteand delicious. littlethisseemstooIfa the into foldcooks African that saysTerebehInquai you,vegan-esque for batterabout Giveyourimagination proda andyoucould probably betterdoyouif — Africancooks takethe same black-eyed-pea batter usedmaketo wrap it in banana leaves, and steam it to make a sort of pudding called moyinmoyin, the directions for making reserved cashews and coconut shreds just before serving. before just shreds coconut and cashews reserved cubes. • When the toasted nuts are cool, put aside a good pinch of each for garnishing, bowl. the into rest the stir then the with Sprinkle twice. or once stirring so, or hour 1 for refrigerator the in Chill • • Put the pineapple cubes in a serving bowl. serving a in cubes pineapple the Put • over pan frying dry a in shreds coconut the and cashews raw the toast Separately • cool. to aside Set done. when plate a turninginto heat, them low to moderate pineapple the over mixture this pour and together rum and sugar, cream, the Mix • Page 35 - - - (Columbus OH) (Columbus points out that the essay on lkire A

ynthia Table Talk Table C . . quickly. quickly. too too . Summer! Time of sweet corn, local peaches, and real, field-ripened toma field-ripened real, and peaches, local corn, sweet of Time Summer! . This doesn’t have to happen at home. The trick to awesome iced coffee™ is to fil to is coffee™ iced awesome to trick The home. at happen to have doesn’t This to take into account the melting ice. I keep a 16-ounce capacity glass in the freezer just just freezer the in glass capacity 16-ounce a keep for I ice. ounces six melting the say, account using, into take to quarter, a by measure water the cut still and purpose, this for ter-brew it right into a tall, thick-sided, ice-filled glass (adding the sugar and/or milk or milk and/or sugar the (adding glass ice-filled thick-sided, tall, a repeat: I into water right of better?). it or know ter-brew would coffee (who do of amount Vietnamese the the as just it), either use you if adjust first, Then cream glass. ice-filled thick-sided, tall, a use Add ice cubes and you have iced-coffee-flavored water. water. iced-coffee-flavored have you and cubes ice Add coffee drinkers are few and far between, they are often treated to a cup of the eatery’s eatery’s the of cup a to treated often are they between, far and few are drinkers coffee weak. already wasn’t coffee the if okay be would ice—which over poured brew, regular one hand, and perhaps one finger, locations where the iced-tea served is actually brewed, brewed, actually is served iced-tea the where locations finger, one perhaps and hand, one iced- Since sweepings. warehouse citric-acid-lacerated from reconstituted than rather Iced Coffee Iced com nothing are those Admittedly, lover. iced-coffee the to agonies special and toes… on count probably can who drinker, iced-tea the upon heaped indignities the to pared out, no doubt they would cook more quickly—and it would be the cook’s job to job make be cook’s the it would quickly—and more cook would they no doubt out, wasn’t it sure opposite is true. However, as far as I remember, none of the recipes I read even brought brought even read I recipes the of none already be remember, to I as happened far as they if However, But true. is opposite refrigerator. the from straight eggs use I up. point the thought of it myself. Omelets are supposed to come together very quickly, so it makes makes it so quickly, very together come to supposed are Omelets myself. it of thought the eggs scrambled for that argue might You first. eggs the of out chill the get to sense scrambled eggs in the last issue never mentions “whether the eggs should be used right right used be should eggs the “whether mentions never issue last the in eggs scrambled that recall I Do counter. the on temperature room reach to allowed or fridge the of out have should I and question, Good temperature?” room at be should omelet an for eggs Scrambled Eggs Scrambled Q & A Page 36 - - The Ghana Ghana The (1920), hints as much in sen in much as hints (1920),

a Cooking in West Afric West in Cooking . . In my search African for cookbooks, out-of-the-ordinary . No better place to write about this extremely worthy and successful successful and worthy extremely this about write to place better No . (1933), compiled by the British Red Cross. Where Lady Tew only touches touches only Tew Lady Where Cross. Red British the by compiled (1933), Muriel Tew’s book was one of two sent me to review, the other being being other the me to review, sent of two one was book Tew’s Muriel to be dirt, a good wash with diluted cow dung hardened it and gave it a nice gloss. gloss. nice a it gave and it hardened dung cow diluted with wash good a dirt, be to village-centered aid project than in an issue devoted to Africa and peanuts. Put simply, simply, Put peanuts. and Africa to devoted issue an in than project aid village-centered a hand-operated to simple invented and make Jeff a seeking retired Rose, difference, gives us a fascinating glimpse into similar circumstances in colonial Africa. colonial in circumstances similar into glimpse fascinating a us gives Project Belly Full palmnut soup; banana steak; palmnut hash; palm-oil corn cake; palm-wine bread; and and bread; palm-wine cake; corn palm-oil writ hash; much palmnut is steak; There banana sugar. soup; and palmnut coconut, corn, fresh of made sweet African book an this Raj; the “cangika,” during British the on cooking and food Indian of influence the on ten 800 recipes, is much more adventurous. There are three versions each of groundnut and and over of groundnut contributions of each individual its with book, second versions the dishes, and three foods are African on There adventurous. more much is recipes, 800 Cookery Book Cookery good pastry maker....” Even so, one learned, one adapted, and one made do. If the floor floor the If do. made one and adapted, one learned, one so, Even maker....” pastry good had natives. the of front in least at kept, be must lip upper stiff a all, Above came to baking. Muriel Tew, in in Tew, Muriel baking. to came tences that begin “If your cook can and made a “If your spongecake...” cook is not a settings, let alone stations out in the bush. Supplies came from far away, local foods foods from came local far away, out in Supplies the bush. stations let alone settings, and were servants and unfamiliar, cooks when especially were it uncomprehending, colonial cookbooks that date back to 1890. Enormous difficulties of every sort faced the the faced sort every of difficulties Enormous 1890. to back date that cookbooks colonial African urban most the in even lifestyle English the to replicate wanting housekeeper African African Colonial Cooking British several offer I also came across books.They an obscure, publishing house, London-based history Jeppestown Press, that and reference African vintage in specializes it just like that, a little cream and sugar stirred in to start the melting. The definition of definition The melting. the start to in stirred sugar and cream little a that, like just it sips. tiny endless glass, cold big afternoon: summer a patient you are, the less the ice will melt. When that’s done, stir it gently with a spoon, spoon, a with serve gently it and stir done, trays, that’s When ice-cube melt. will in ice the it less the freeze are, you coffee, patient the brew to is though, fantasy, My enjoy. and an eight-ounce serving. Be sure to add the water to the filter in little splashes—the more more splashes—the little in filter the to water the add to sure Be serving. eight-ounce an Page 37 —to learn more (and see some fascinating videos); or donate donate or videos); fascinating some see (and more learn —to g www.fullbellyproject.or — (910-452-0975). 28401 NC Wilmington St., Chestnut 1020 Project, Belly Full directly: has been adapted to operate by pedal power and a small electric motor. Visit the website website the Visit Sheller” Nut motor. “Universal the invention, its Since electric engine). a diesel to power small be used can a and power pedal by operate to adapted been has Rose focused on peanuts because about half a billion people in the third world depend depend world third the in people billion a half about because peanuts on focused Rose which of regularly oil being are uses further (the However, seeds of protein. source primary Jatropha as their on them shelling and beans coffee dried husking like discovered, onerous and time-consuming task into something easily and quickly done—so much done—so and easily quickly task into something and onerous time-consuming sustenance. as basic as well of income a source become have peanuts shelled so that machine that quickly and efficiently shells lots and lots of peanuts. This has had a huge huge a had has This peanuts. of lots and lots shells efficiently and quickly that machine an transforming it where has been introduced, on impact the communities economic Page 38 - - - ; - sokoyokoto , waterleaf, waterleaf, , , again) or requires an effort most of of most effort an requires or again) , craincrain sokoyokoto (Longmans of Nigeria,1957), a treasure , despite being written in plain English, puts us directly directly us puts English, plain in written being , despite 3 African Cookbooks 3 African ot surprisingly, most African cookbooks are written by and for non-native read non-native for and by written are cookbooks African most surprisingly, ot dating settlers, English clueless for written some, these, of many are there ers; harderand fewer Far above). to7 page find (see years hundred area back the these among pearl The Africans. native for cookbooks and writtenby

The recipes are generally simple and clear, but, and as The simple are clear, recipes with generally many strictly To my mind, though, this is the great value of the book. almost always We ap The longest chapter is on root vegetables; the second longest is a tie be tie a is longest second the vegetables; root on is chapter longest The For those who read cookbooks to feed the imagination, this one provides provides one this imagination, the feed to cookbooks read who those For

Miss Williams’ Cookery Book Miss Williams’ Cookery Book Cookery Williams’ Miss proach foreign cooking with the help of a translator/explainer, someone who knows how how knows who someone translator/explainer, a of help the with cooking foreign own. our proach with aligns successfully less or more it that so cooking foreigner’s a rework to us reserve for special occasions, not everyday fare. fare. everyday not occasions, special for reserve us foreign cookbooks, the familiar is too ordinary (fried chicken, cheese omelet) and the un the and omelet) cheese chicken, (fried ordinary too is familiar the cookbooks, foreign ( reach our beyond well often is familiar chapters. African greens are a world apart— world a are greens African chapters. life. real in encounter not rather I’d one) for (bitterleaf, some tween cereals (rice and corn) and fruits. Coconuts and peanuts get their own own their get peanuts and Coconuts fruits. and corn) and (rice cereals tween measures, she uses Player’s cigarette and Blue Band margarine cans—items cans—items margarine Band Blue and cigarette Player’s uses she measures, cooks. poorest the even to accessible easily starts starts off by on providing instructions marketing (which stalls to frequent and how to pick cup from of their Instead offerings) and tins). on kerosene equipping a metal of kitchen out (how oven to bake a and/or stove a make much much to chew on. R. a Williams, Omosunlola teacher of science, domestic that I purchased years ago thinking it was a Caribbean cookbook, only later later only cookbook, Caribbean a was it thinking ago years purchased I that it to be Nigerian. to discover N is Page 39 - - Interlink Memories with Food Food with Memories z

.* y

, a yeast-leavened bread baked in fire ashes; the the ashes; fire in baked bread yeast-leavened a , z

y ashkoek , , picked out one of the family’s several cooks, Josie Stow, for The African Kitchen African The ($20, 144 pp.). g At At Gipsy House that she and predicting brilliant” her “breathtakingly calling attention, special would end up or running some restaurant “magnificent a superb pastry-shop oald Dahl, in his and his wife Felicity’s charmingly quirky quirky charmingly Felicity’s wife his and his in Dahl, oald Buy a new bunch of Nigerian brooms. Get the younger members of the family the of members younger the Get brooms. Nigerian of bunch new a Buy sharpen and in., 3 about of pieces into break and cleanly, stick each scrape to hundreds in these prepare to plan good a usually is it many, Prepare end. one when less busy…

Even those foods that came out of the universal challenges of outdoor camping camping of outdoor challenges of out came universal the that foods those Even Which brings me back to the great effort and special occasions mentioned in the the in mentioned occasions special and effort great the to back me brings Which What little I know of safari food is that it is long on pampering and short on au on short and pampering on long is it that is food safari of I know little What

are given an African twist, like like twist, African an given are by US the in published photos, full-color stunning with paperback large-format *A Publishin introduce as possible. safari goers to as many flavors of Africa thenticity, thenticity, let alone actually roughing it. But Stow established immediate empathy to mission her it made soon and staff,taught, African learned she native as her with and ended up writing writing up ended and R ranger, a married safaris, on cook to Africa to moved she Instead, years.” few a within A toothpick will never look the same. A toothpick will never look this book came in the last chapter. It’s about entertaining. When this is casual, appetiz casual, is this When entertaining. about It’s chapter. last the in came book this To sticks). chop (called sticks little with skewered around passed are chop) (called ers sticks”: “chop these make paragraph before last. One moment of almost dizzying recognition I had while reading reading while had I recognition dizzying almost of moment One last. before paragraph into the mind of the native Nigerian cook, and leaves us to sort out what we find there, there, find we what out sort to us leaves and cook, Nigerian native the of mind the into own. our on all

Page 40 ); or or ); Grewia flava Grewia , - - (a injira (a veg goreme goreme msamba (a spicy grated vegetable on skewers from the wild raisin bush ( bush raisin wild the from skewers on * charkalaka (a fermented pineapple “beer”), (an Ethiopian take on steak tartare).(an Ethiopian take on steak kifto imfulafula The African element in main course dishes tends to be native be to tends dishes course main in element African The Most of Stow’s pastry-making skills revolve around variations around revolve skills pastry-making Stow’s of Most The goal remains to tempt finicky appetites and satisfy raven satisfy and appetites finicky tempt to remains goal The This book is, obviously, about as far from the first as you can get and still have still and get can you as first the from far as about obviously, is, book This Here Stow obliquely touches on a not uncommon safari activity otherwise curiously absent curiously otherwise activity safari uncommon not a on touches obliquely Stow Here * in these pages: hunting and killing wild game. Elsewhere, she simply calls for venison. R. Omosunlola Williams and Josie Stow would greatly enjoy each other’s company, for for company, other’s each enjoy greatly would Stow Josie and Williams Omosunlola R. both are cooks in serious love They with cooking. African are just coming at it from very different places. your feet on the same continent. But it would be unfair to dismiss it as “African Lite.” “African as it dismiss to unfair be would it But continent. same the on feet your etable dish of pumpkin—or sweet potato—leaves peanuts), and crushed tangy feta and yogurt dip), salad), meat or North African spicing. It is the side dishes and snacks that snacks and dishes side the is It spicing. African North or meat have the liveliest connections to sub-Saharan cooking: the desserts is an inspired bread pudding made of pumpkin bread pumpkin of made pudding bread inspired an is desserts the custard.cubes baked in a pumpkin are some with an African twist— Among Ethiopian rusks. honey breakfast African bread, South delicious-looking some and on the daily loaf, since all the bread is baked on location. There leading to imaginative but simple fare like sweet potato, onion, and and onion, potato, sweet like fare simple but imaginative to leading bresaola-style and salad; banana and lentil green pancakes; thyme venison. cured ous ones. However, the restrictions of camp cooking keep things real, real, things keep cooking camp of restrictions the However, ones. ous bacon-wrapped eland kebabs eland bacon-wrapped mound. termite eight-foot-high vacated a of out created oven pizza the

Page 41 - z y

- (Citadel, 2004). (Citadel, 2004). z y Market in Benin u

m ainabu ainabu Kpaka Kallon was born helping, watching, into There, kitchen. the a to way her large found she could she family as soon in Sierra Leone, and as and listening, she absorbed a world of flavor that spills out fromthe pages of Cookbook Zainabu’s African

She also weaves stories throughout throughout stories weaves also She During my research, I came across many African recipes that were thought-pro were that recipes African many across came I research, my During

of print, but inexpensive used copies are are copies used inexpensive but print, of Amazon.co from available when when she headed to the grocery store is the book out Sadly, here in America. cal—some about her African origins, some some origins, all. Others African are directly her autobiographi about cal—some experienced she shock culture the about an African people who, like the Chinese, Chinese, the like who, people African an at meal no rice without meal a consider the book. Some of them are instructive— are them of Some book. the the importance of rice to the Mendes, lime sauce; and her sister’s remarkably sister’s her and sauce; lime simple recipe for peanut brittle. and coffee rice; hot curried plantain with with plantain curried hot rice; coffee and coconut in snapper red and pork lamb; night. Not so in this book, where my appetite was whetted by such as spicy chicken shrimp sauce; mango green with wings voking, but not all that many that made me want to prepare them for supper that very that supper for them prepare to want me made that many that all not but voking, Z

Page 42 - - - - - Wash . s Lost Crops of . s ay s Food and Culture . a oodw F and

oods F frican . n A Lost Crops of Africa. Volume III: Fruit of Lost Africa. Crops Volume on

. s ost Crops I: of Grain Africa. Volume L orks W are hyperlinked to sources where they can be purchased. Food and Culture in Sub-Saharan Afric Annotated Bibliography SC•91 Bibliography Annotated cholarly S in brown http://tinyurl.com/5esk4 These are the books I consulted while writing this issue, with reading notes ap notes reading with issue, this writing while consulted I books the are These un are that titles Book most. the me interested or helped that those to pended derlined around the World Series, Ken Albala, series editor. Westport: Greenwood, 2005. A concise, readable (and outrageously expensive) survey that touches on African history, religions, and regional crops, food specialties, dining habits, and food-re books thinking that world hunger is much more about politics than Fortunately, while the books agronomy. can be purchased either bound or in pdf form, they or above hyperlinks title book the using by charge without online read be also can going to native African food products are grown, harvested, and processed; the benefits and limitations of each as a food source; and how they could be better and more profitably utilized both in Africa and beyond. I can’t imagine many of my readers sitting down and plowing through all three volumes; I know I didn’t. But once did begin reading, I I found it hard to stop… and I certainly came away from these laid. In fact, some are quite familiar (black-eyed peas, tamarind, amaranth; okra, sorghum); others, while not so well-known to the areWest, not in any danger of being forgotten. This point aside, the three volumes, prepared from an enormous fund of research material, offer an overview of where and how over two hundred Africa. Volume II: Vegetable Africa. Volume ington, D.C.: National Academy Press, 1996. This impressive three-volume series seems to me to be seriously mistitled, since these crops aren’t lost, or even mis Osseo-Asare, Fran. National Research Council. Page 43 . - ) 3 s frican A Garden City: Doubleday, GardenCity: . g . Bloomington: AuthorHouse, Bloomington: . (goat’s head snack), roasted a ative N by isi ewu

ritten W Good Tastes In Africa (African Outreach Series, No. Series, Outreach In (African Africa Good Tastes s ookbook The Art of West African Cookin African West of Art The C , or potash soup. Essang is a potash enthusiast (its “importance Principles of Cooking in West Afric West in Cooking of Principles frican owo A his hammer squarely on the nail, but for serious African cooking fans, the book is book the fans, cooking African serious for but nail, the on squarely hammer his relatively inexpensive and worth the effort to find it. cannot be overemphasized in this book”) and explains that one of its uses is to meld a to recipe for is uses its of one that explains and book”) this in overemphasized be cannot oil with water when making soup. I was intrigued by this, but my Google search for “edible potash” resulted in one hit: “Guangzhou Chemical Reagent No 2 Fac tory Guangming Food Additive,” and interest faded. Essang may not have landed learned from it, but it must be approached cautiously, since the author is not a professionallacks text easily his many and not writer Still, food editing. practiced available African cookbooks offer recipes for One foo. foo Bisquick or kabob), beef simple a be to out turns (which cocktail meat even is ingredient—there an as potash of use the is curiosities several book’s the of 2005. This self-published volume was written by a former Nigerian restaurant owner owner restaurant Nigerian former a by written was volume self-published This 2005. who immigrated to the United States and wrote this book to instruct Americans on the benefits (nutritional andWest economical) African of cooking. A lot can be African Studies Program, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, 1983. A spiral- A 1983. Urbana-Champaign, at Illinois of University Program, Studies African at the Association Women’s bound fund for raiser the and African African-Related to an introduction provides book but helpful (sixty-six-page) short This University. to by native cooks contributed recipes by approachable followed foodways, African Kenya. and Senegal, Zaire, Zambia, Ethiopia, Gambia, Tanzania, Nigeria, 1972. lated holidays, with a helpful glossary of African food terms. Recipes are scattered are Recipes terms. food African of glossary helpful a with holidays, lated throughout are the text, as photographs. black-and-white occasional Essang, Raymond. Raymond. Essang, Dyasi, Rebecca (compiler). (compiler). Rebecca Dyasi, Ayensu,Ameley. Dinah Page 44 revised revised ( g - - - . . Trenton: Africa World, k (Foods of the of (Foods . . Ikeja, Nigeria: g . . Nairobi: Heine k k . New York: Citadel, . 2004. See Citadel, New York: k (what remains of fatty fatty of remains (what mutura frican Cookin frican A (steamed and mashed plantain). Of Of plantain). mashed and (steamed matoke Miss Miss Williams’ Cookery Boo Zainabu’s Cookboo African Zainabu’s A Taste of Africa: Traditional & Modern African Cookin African & Modern Traditional Africa: of A Taste A A Taste of Africa: An African Cookboo . New York: Time-Life, 1970. Not uninteresting, but very Time-Life,but uninteresting, Not 1970. York: New . Mary Mary Ominde’s African Cookery Boo . Berkeley: Ten Speed, 2002. 2002. Speed, Ten Berkeley: . ) World Series) World dated. rock cakes, and groundnut bread, which show British dishes being ab being dishes British show which bread, groundnut and cakes, rock sensibility. culinary Kenyan a into sorbed issue. this of 8 page See 1957. Nigeria, of Longman’s Even Even so, she blood cooked offers fare—cow lots African of down-home stuffed and ants, white fried milk, sour in a of parts or devotes sheep the goat after fat has been rendered)—and with made dishes to chapter are like maize interest recipes scones, meal special soybean crossover mann, 1975. What Miss Williams is to Nigeria, Mary Ominde is to Kenya, Kenya, to is Ominde Mary Nigeria, to is Williams Miss What 1975. cosmo more mann, a at aimed whole, the on and, shorter is book her although recipes. African as well as European in interested is who reader politan (Ethiopia), chicken marinated in lemon and onion sauce (Senegal), meat and peanut peanut and meat (Senegal), sauce onion and lemon in marinated chicken (Ethiopia), book. Excellent (Malawi). tea lemongrass and (Zimbabwe), stew issue. this of 8 page 1998. Tebereh Inquai was born in Ethiopia and worked there and in Botswana as a as Botswana in and there worked and Ethiopia in born was Inquai Tebereh 1998. African own her started she Britain, to moved she When teacher. nutrition and food takeout place. In greens other words, with she knows fish how like to recipes prepare her with native foods mine to over win won certainly She palates. Western over (Congo), pumpkin and black-eyed pea stew (Ghana), a salad of chickpea sprouts edition Van der Post, Laurens, and the Editors of Time-Life Books. Time-Life of Editors the and Laurens, Post, der Van Williams, R. Williams, Omosunlola. Ominde, Ominde, Mary. Kallon, Zainabu Kpaka. Zainabu Kallon, Inquai, Inquai, Tebereh. Haffner, Dorinda. Dorinda. Haffner, Page 45 . - k The Gold Coast Coast Gold The New York: New Simon York: & . t Flavors of Africa Cookboo fricans . London: Grub Street, 1988. -A y (facsimile edition of of edition (facsimile on k N y B ). It is a wonderful but confusing resource, c . New York: Lorenz, 2001. 2001. Lorenz, York: New . k . 1999-2005. This substantial (481 page) cookbook cookbook page) (481 substantial This 1999-2005. . k ookbooks C The Ghana Cookery Boo Cookery Ghana The frican A Caribbean and African Cooker Caribbean and African . . Accra: Government Printing Office, 1933). London: Jeppestown, The Africa Cookbook: Tastes of a Continen http://tinyurl.com/58lpn The Congo Cookboo Congo The The Essential African Cookboo African Essential The her writing is almost always lackluster and too often surrenders to platitudes when platitudes to surrenders often too and lackluster always almost is writing her there is interesting information she could convey. For example, while she visits the Ivory Coast during the height of avocado season, they she are doesn’t industrially mention farmed that as a cash crop for the lucrative European market, Schuster, 1998) is the most ambitious attempt so far to convey a coherent outline coherent a convey to far so attempt ambitious most the is 1998) Schuster, of pan-African cuisine. There is much here to admire, from the ductory extensive material to the long introand helpful bibliography. Harris traveled all over the Unfortunately, shares. she that recipes the of many collected she where continent, reflective perspective of a writer who has mastered his material sufficiently enough sufficiently material his mastered has who writer a of perspective reflective of it. to make something out displays a prodigious amount of research—ranging from forgotten tomes by African by tomes forgotten from research—ranging of amount prodigious a displays explorers to the writings of Maya Angelou—decently organized and thoughtfully presented. There are many, many recipes here and countless fascinating tidbits of information. What’s missing is a sense of the practiced hand of a cook or the exists as both a downloadable pdf document and a printed paperback (available from (available paperback printed a and document pdf downloadable a both as exists Cafe Press, partly because it is not a book at all. As far as I can less determine, is result it The years. started the out over as added were recipes more and more where website like a cookbook than a diligent and thoughtful final paper for a college course. It 2007. 2007. Prima, 1998. Rocklin CA: Cookery Cookery Book —. —. Harris, Jessica. Grant, Rosamund. Gibbon, Ed. Gibbon, DeWitt, Dave, Stock. Mary and DeWitt, Jane Melissa Wilan, T. British Red Cross Society, Society, Cross Red British Page 46

. y look like do . New York: Simon & Simon York: New . . New York: Macmillan, . : African Cooking for Western k Cooking The West African Wa African West The Cooking : Traditional Caribbean Cooking TraditionalCaribbean : h The Africa News Cookboo : Regional Recipes and Reminiscences l Tasting Tasting Brazi Minneapolis: Lerner, 2002. This Minneapolis: and Lerner, the following book are meant for students at middle-school level or This higher. means that the prose is simple and clear and the recipes simple and easy. Given this, the dishes are authentic and the written American continent’s contributors. that The of recipes, range all wide reworkeda embrace to and be Africa easily of made parts in all American from come kitchens, regional dishes and cooking techniques. A useful and attractive cookbook, quite suitable for novices. Kitchens. New York: Penguin, 1986. Africa News Service is a non-profit news agency news non-profit a is Service News Africa 1986. Penguin, York: New Kitchens. that provides information about Africa. This cookbook was first published under their imprint and was a staff project with many African as well as European and out, but on the whole this book is a greatout, but on the whole this disappointment 1991. Schuster, 1992. that “there are as many different methods for cooking rice as there grandmothers,” are whereshe goes on African of to give sense us her mother’s some recipe. Even us if it weregive a good least at she doesn’t earth on why isn’t), it (which recipe winnowing worth here recipes are There differ? grandmothers African those exactly was only later that they were edged out by the big purple bruiser that today—even we though know it resembles no egg ever seen since the age of the dinosaur. prepare, Africans dishes the in interested be may Furthermore, Harris while her recipes for them rarely convey the thoughtful awareness of a cook intent on absorbing the processes that bring them into being. In one instance, after stating let alone explain what effect this alien interloper has had on the native cooking. Elsewhere, she fails to mention the fact that African eggplants really eggs. These were the first eggplants introduced to England, hence their name. It Sky Juice and Flying Fis Flying and Juice Sky Montgomery, Bertha Vining, and Constance Nabwire. Constance and Vining, Bertha Montgomery, —. Hultman, Tami (editor). —. Page 47 - - Cook . New York: s . Northampton n (Expanded edition). New (facsimile edition of s

e . New York: Evans, 1971. This nterest I . New York: Broadway, 2002. . New York: The African Kitche d of

. Secaucus NJ: Citadel, 1970. 1970. Citadel, NJ: Secaucus . . Minneapolis: 2001. Lerner, Same comments as Liverpool: C. Tinling, 1920). London: Jeppestown, London: 1920). Tinling, C. Liverpool: ookbooks y C . New York: Bloomsbury, 2008. Bloomsbury, . New York: r . Tuskegee Institute Experimental Station Bulletin 31. . Tuskegee Institute Experimental New York: Simon & Schuster, 1968. An unusually fine n Ways of Preparing It Preparing of Ways 105 and Peanut the Grow To How ther . e O A West African Cook Book Cuisines of Portuguese Encounter A World of Vegetable Cookery: An Encyclopedic Treasury of Reci of Treasury Encyclopedic An Cookery: Vegetable of World A Bottomfeede The Best Recipes in the Worl The Best Recipes in the Dining with My Friends: Adventures with Epicure The African Cookbook African The Cooking in West Cooking Africa: in A West Colonial Guid The East African Wa Cooking Cooking pes, Botany, and Lor collection of vegetable recipes. York: Hippocrene, 2008. Recipes from Portugal and (more interestingly) from former from interestingly) (more and Portugal from Recipes 2008. Hippocrene, York: of them African. ToPortuguese colonies, several be reviewed. for Human Consumptio Crown, 1949. to familiar Southern ones, some of which you might never suspect came from that from came suspect never might you which of some Southernones, familiar to continent. US: Interlink, 2005. See page 8 of this issue. issue. this of 8 page See 2005. US: Interlink, almost and cookbooks, African non-native better the of one is volume hard-to-find dishes African West certain of linking prescient) quite (and persuasive its in unique ing in West Africa Made Easier. Easier. Made Africa West in ing 2007. text genuinely informative.text genuinely above. Hawkes, Alex D. Alex Hawkes, Hamilton, Cherie Y. Gaige, Crosby. Grescoe, Taras. Carver, George Washington. George Carver, Bittman, Mark. Wilson, Wilson, Ellen Gibson. Stow, Josie, and Jan Baldwin (photographer). Tew, Muriel. Sandler, Bea. Bea. Sandler, —. Page 48

- - - - bollitos Urbana: Uni Urbana: . a . New York: Harper, 1890. 1890. Harper, York: . New s (pdf format). Dallas: LinguaL Dallas: format). (pdf v and looking for “[PDF] Wild Boar on Boar Wild “[PDF] for looking and 2 l v The Florida Cookbook: From Gulf Coast Gumbo Gumbo Coast Gulf From Cookbook: Florida The l ). There is also a scattering of little glimpses into daily into glimpses little of scattering a also is There ). v Wild Boar on the Kitchen Floor Kitchen the on Boar Wild http://tinyurl.com/6cmbc . New York: Knopf, 1995. Interestingly, in the preface to their their to preface the in Interestingly, 1995. Knopf, York: New . gnamakudji e Two Years In The French West Indie West French In The Two Years Peanuts: The Illustrious History of the Goober Pe Goober the of History Illustrious The Peanuts: to Key Lime Pi Lime black-eyed-pea Key the to remove to whether on sides opposite take authors two the recipe, exemplary. is itself recipe the and skins, versity of Illinois Press, 2002. An easy-to-read, well-researched history of the peanut the of history well-researched easy-to-read, An 2002. Press, Illinois of versity and its gradual evolution into an American icon, with period illustrations and an interesting of historical recipes. collection happy to do this work for a without small monetary obtained reward, or be better yet, can for the pdf parts of The etc.).” feet, (head, anyway eat don’t you animal the to going by charge link; download its contents.) (Don’t click the the Kitchen Floor.” game (gazelle, palm rat, monkey, snake, crocodile), and the occasional native reci native occasional the and crocodile), snake, monkey, rat, palm (gazelle, game pes that take advantage of African (and sometimes familiar!) ingredients, like the beverage ginger be will children African … animals? other and chickens killing about wild “Not life: Côte d’Ivoire, and put together this “survival guide” for Americans and others work others and Americans for guide” “survival this together put and d’Ivoire, Côte ing in Africa West who need recipes for familiar foods that can be prepared from what is available in African markets. This includes directions for making cream from butter and milk; homemade ranch-style salad dressing; corn dogs; and pita African preparing for directions the of because here appears book The pizza. bread inks, 1991. The author lived and worked for many years in West Africa, especially especially Africa, West in years many for worked and lived author The 1991. inks, Voltz, Jeanne, and Caroline Stuart. Stuart. Caroline and Jeanne, Voltz, Smith, Andrew. Smith, Hearn, Lafcadio. (compiler). S. Harriet Hill,