Natural Dyes and the Sustainable Environment from Invasive Plants
JHGT 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7(406-418) Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile 華岡紡織期刊 第二十四卷 第七期 ISSN 1025-9678 http://www.jhgt.org.tw/pdf/jhgt-24.7(406-418)(2017-09).pdf
Natural Dyes and the Sustainable Environment from Invasive Plants Kristen Domingcil , Shu-Hwa Lin Department of Family and Consumer Sciences, CTAHR/ University of Hawaii at Manoa, USA [email protected] Abstract In recent years, the fashion industry introduced and promoted a number of new products that were labeled as eco-conscious, renewable, and sustainable. Unfortunately, the use of natural dyestuff for mass production could cause environmental issues, in terms of supply abundance. However, this concern could be averted with the use of pre-existing plant resources, namely, contained quantities of invasive plant species in Hawaii. In this research, dyes made from invasive species in Hawaii (Causurina equisetifolia, Clidemia hirta, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Lantana camara, Psidium cattleianum, and Spathodea campanulata) were tested against a commercial dye brand, Rit Liquid Dye in Navy Blue, using two American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) standardized test methods for colorfastness and wrinkle recovery. A paper chromatography test was also used to determine if dye molecule size was a factor in how effectively the dye was absorbed into the samples. Results revealed that samples dyed with natural dyes had higher scores for colorfastness, and in general had a higher wrinkle-recovery score than Rit dyed samples. Chromatography also revealed that dyes made from Hibiscus rosa-sinensis and Spathodea campanulata had the highest retention factor (Rf) values of all the natural dyes, however, Rit brand dye had the highest Rf value of all the dyes. The results of this research reveal that natural dyes are a potential substitute for synthetic dyes for mass production. However, more research needs to be completed in order to keep the natural dyes vibrant, consistent and more colorfast between batches. Keywords： Natural Dye, Invasive Species, Sustainable
406 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7
Introduction higher degree of color retention than their natural counterparts [8]. In recent years, the fashion industry introduced and promoted a number of new products that were Yet in these past two decades, consumers and labeled as eco-conscious, reusable, and sustainable. manufacturers alike have become more aware of the These various fashion goods utilized materials environmental impact of the abundance of synthetic produced in an environmentally-conscious way, materials in general, dyestuffs and pigments included. reduced carbon foot-print, and in some instances, Many view the fashion industry as over-excessive in could later be decomposed via an environmentally its production, and as a result, apparel producers are safe process. Amongst these products, natural dyes now striving to seek other alternatives that are more also regained popularity as a sustainable resource. eco-conscious. As a result of these views, there has Natural dye, which occurs from a variety of sources, been a movement towards the use of natural dyes for such as insects, plants, and minerals, is a product the mass production of goods, though there have been known for and often advertised a sustainable resource some issues regarding the use of natural dyes en masse, that is better for the environment and human and the production of natural dyes in general. consumption than synthetic dyes [1, 2, 3]. Invasive Species and Potential for Economic Use
Unfortunately, there are some encountered Natural Dyes difficulties regarding the frequent use of natural dyes Natural Dyes: History and Present Use in fashion products – namely, the harvesting practices of natural dyestuff, and the effectiveness of natural The idea of using natural dyes to produce colored dyes in the use of fashion products [2, 7]. Kadolph textiles is not a new one. Before the middle-nineteenth noted in her article Natural Dyes: A Traditional Craft century, when the first synthetic dye color mauve was Experiencing New Attention, that “natural dyestuffs introduced, people utilized existing resources to are either harvested from the surrounding area or manufacture color for their textile goods. Various grown specifically to be used as natural dye” [2]. museum textile collections reveal that many naturally- Furthermore, Kadolph adds that “when harvesting dyed fabrics have retained their colors throughout the from naturally occurring dyestuffs, one should harvest centuries. Indigo dye and madder, for example, have no more than one-fourth of the dyestuff in order to been common pigments found coloring historical ensure that the dyestuff will remain a viable colony in textiles from around the world [4, 5]. Indigo, its natural environment” [2]. especially, has been commonly found as a dye resource for popular denim brands, such as Levi The use of natural dyestuff on a larger scale could Strauss [6]. be cause for environmental concerns, especially if the dyestuff is to be used for constant production of goods. However, with the growth of the textile industry However, this issue can be averted, specifically, with in the twentieth century, many natural dyes were the use of already prevalent and fast-growing plant replaced with synthetic dye, which produced more resources. In Hawaii, invasive plant species would be vibrant, consistent colors. These dyes, which could be particularly abundant, though malignant, resources. created in larger, more controlled batches, were Specifically, there are an estimated “5,000 species of preferable to natural dyes made only from available plant and animals [that] occur in the Hawaiian Islands, means, with lesser yields [2, 7]. Furthermore, many including more than 1,300 non-indigenous vascular synthetic dyes that were chemically applied to plant species” [9]. Furthermore, an “estimated 20-50 clothing and other goods were determined to have a
407 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7 new species become established in Hawaii every year” natural dyes to be used in combination with synthetic [10]. Such plants often grow well in Hawaii’s nutrient- fabrics, in addition to increasing color retention ability filled environment and tropical climate, which causes [11]. difficulties for native plants that are often threatened The final testing step is using the thin layer paper by these other alien plant species. chromatography method to gauge the dyes’ The use of other crops and abundant resources as penetration power when absorbed by fiber materials. dyestuff has been discussed and implemented Chromatography has been used for numerous testing worldwide. Several studies have researched the experiments, and is found useful for the study of potential use of abundant, natural materials and waste organic chemistry and determining the organic by-products, as potential dye-making resources [3, 7, 8, compounds of various substances. Studies that have 11, 12]. A study completed in Malaysia revealed that utilized thin layer paper chromatography as a vital part dye substrates made from abundant and easily of testing range from medical and drug-testing accessible mineral resources, when crushed into nano- research [13, 14], to agricultural investigations [15], to sized pieces, made for more colorfast and vibrant dye food industry and dietary supplement research [16, 17, substrates[8]. In Hawaii, however, there may need to 18]. These are only a few examples in which thin layer be monitoring for dye crops made from these invasive chromatography has been a beneficial testing species, as maintenance is essential in keeping technique. environmental balance. Historically, chromatography has been used to This research suggests the use of plant matter as a test the effectiveness of colorfastness on historical resource for dye production. Utilizing invasive textiles that were colored with natural dyes, in species may have potential environmental and addition in aiding historians in determining the time economic benefits for Hawaii: this method may period the textile originated [5, 19, 20]. Thin layer decrease and contain the presence of invasive plants, chromatography (TLC) has also been used in testing in addition to providing a manufactured product and the consistency of early synthetic dyes against their another mean of income for Hawaii’s fashion and modern counterparts, as dye recipes have evolved over textile industry. Furthermore, this type of product the years. Research completed by Titford declaims the would promote sustainability as a viable lifestyle importance of maintaining dye recipes for consistency, option for both Hawaii and Hawaii’s economy. and the importance of the TLC in product testing and development in the production of mass quantities of In this study, parts from several different, dye for various textile industries [20]. prominent invasive plant species have been used to create natural dyes. Furthermore, these dyes are tested Similar to the research stated beforehand, this against a readily available commercial dye to see if study explores the natural dye’s ability to be absorbed natural dyes are comparable to use on various fabric into manufactured textiles, using lab procedures that materials, using American Association of Textile were found in other research and online [13, 17, 21]. Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) standardized test The natural dyes are not expected to receive scores as methods. In addition, a variety of suggested natural high as the ones the synthetic Rit dye are likely to dye mordants, or dye-sets, have been used to pre-treat receive in TLC testing, however, the natural dyes may the fabric samples, which may improve the quality of perform better in the wrinkle-resist testing and might the dye’s staying power. Previous studies have shown be comparable in color abrasion testing, AATCC 66 that azo compounds, used as mordants in combination and AATCC 116 test procedures respectively. with naturally-derived dyes, made it possible for Furthermore, samples pre-treated with dye set are
408 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7 expected to perform better in color abrasion testing, Test fabrics used in this study are AATCC multi-test though not necessarily in wrinkle-resist testing, as pre- fibers #1 and #10, natural un-dyed cotton, bleach mordant treatments may affect the hand and physical cotton twill, un-dyed natural silk, and natural un-dyed make-up of the fabric swatches. linen, cut in 10 cm x 13 cm swatches
3 500-mL beakers for making dye and dyeing Materials and Procedures samples
Materials and Dyestuff AATCC Vertical crockmeter and crockmeter When selecting the invasive species for study, testing squares extensive research was completed to choose the plants oz (2 lb) weight for the crockmeter testing species reported to be the most malignant in taking AATCC wrinkle recovery disk and protractor over Hawaii’s ecosystem, the most easily accessible geographically, or those plants that were most Metal leaves, plastic press, and 5lb weights abundant or would be available year round for harvest. for creasing wrinkle recovery samples
Often, the plants turned out to fit two or all three A 1-mL dropper categories. Below is a list of the various plants used as Acetone, as a solvent for the chromatography dyestuffs, and their common names. testing Causurina equisetifolia, commonly known as 3-mm grain paper chromatography strips, 2 ironwood cm x13 cm Clidemia hirta, or Koster’s curse A light box, for determining chromatography Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, or hibiscus results
Lantana camara, or Spanish flag Procedures
Psidium cattleianum, or strawberry guava 1. Creating the dye and dyeing test swatches
Spathodea campanulata, African tulip or After collecting the dye matter, dye was created trumpet flower using a 2:1 water to plant matter weight ratio. The combined dye and tap water were boiled and In addition to testing the dyes, swatches were simmered for 20 minutes in heat-resistant beakers, and tested with mordants to see if dye-sets would affect the then allowed to cool. To prepare the dye swatches staying power of dyes on the test fabric swatches. The (torn roughly into 10 x 13 cm. pieces), one set per dye mordants used in this study are salt, vinegar, and was put aside to be dyed without mordant treatment, tannic acid (derived from the stems of tomato plants and the rest were placed into the salt, vinegar, and through boiling). Various sources have noted that these tannic acid mordant baths and boiled and simmered mordants were effective in helping to preserved the for an hour. For the fixatives, the tannic acid was made colors of the natural dyes on fabric [2]. Rit Liquid Dye using a 2:1 plant matter to water weight ratio, the in Navy Blue was the commercial dye used for vinegar fixative was made using a 1:4 vinegar to water comparison of swatches that were not treated with weight ratio, and the salt mordant was made using a mordants beforehand. The navy RIT is commercial 1:16 salt to water weight ratio. After an hour, the selected and comparable to commercial dye against swatches were removed and allowed to dry for 24 sample natural dye. hours. In the instance of the Causurina, Lantana and RIT dyes, however, no mordant-tested fabric swatches
409 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7 were used (these choices will be explained in the crockmeter. Using 5x5 cm crockmeter squares, we discussion section). placed the swatches beneath the testing lever, and using a standard 4.7 oz (2 lb) weight, we cranked the Following this, the swatches were placed into the lever arm twenty times around to see if the crockmeter dye baths, and allowed to soak for another hour. Once squares would pick up any color off of the test removed, they were hung to dry, rinsed once after 24 swatches. The swatches were run through the test hours, dried again, and then stored in an acid-free method twice, once with a dry crockmeter square and portfolio. once with a wet crockmeter square, to test the dye’s AATCC 116: Vertical Crockmeter Method resistance against dry and wet abrasion. Each test swatch was tested using the vertical
Table 1 Results of AATCC 116: Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method Dye/Fabric/Mordant Combination Wet Crocking Dry Crocking Causurina equisetifolia Ironwood - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant 4.5 5 Natural Cotton, no mordant 4.5 5 Natural Linen, no mordant 4 5 Natural Silk, no mordant 4 4.5 Clidemia hirta Koster’s curse - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant 4 5 Natural Cotton, no mordant 3.5 4.5 Natural Cotton, Salt mordant 4.5 5 Natural Cotton, Tannic acid mordant 3.5 4 Natural Cotton, Vinegar mordant 4 4.5 Natural Linen, no mordant 3 4.5 Silk, no mordant 4 4.5 Silk, Salt mordant 4.5 5 Silk, Tannic acid mordant 4 4 Silk, Vinegar mordant 4.5 4.5 Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Hibiscus - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant 4 5 Natural Cotton, no mordant 4.5 5 Natural Cotton, Salt mordant 4.5 5 Natural Cotton, Tannic acid mordant 4.5 5 Natural Cotton, Vinegar mordant 4 5 Natural Linen, no mordant 4 5 Silk, no mordant 4.5 5 Silk, Salt mordant 5 5 Silk, Tannic acid mordant 4 5 Silk, Vinegar mordant 4 5 Lantana camara Spanish Flag - -
410 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7
Dye/Fabric/Mordant Combination Wet Crocking Dry Crocking Bleached Cotton, no mordant 5 5 Natural Cotton, no mordant 5 5 Natural Linen, no mordant 4.5 5 Silk, no mordant 5 5 Psidium cattleianum Strawberry guava - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant 4.5 5 Natural Cotton, no mordant 4.5 5 Natural Cotton, Salt mordant 4.5 5 Natural Cotton, Tannic acid mordant 4.5 4.5 Natural Cotton, Vinegar mordant 4.5 5 Natural Linen, no mordant 4 4.5 Silk, no mordant 4.5 5 Silk, Salt mordant 4.5 5 Silk, Tannic acid mordant 4.5 5 Silk, Vinegar mordant 4.5 4.5 Spathodea campanulata African Tulip/trumpet flower - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant 4 5 Natural Cotton, no mordant 4 5 Natural Cotton, Salt mordant 4 5 Natural Cotton, Tannic acid mordant 4 5 Natural Cotton, Vinegar mordant 3.5 5 Natural Linen, no mordant 3.5 4.5 Silk, no mordant 3.5 4.5 Silk, Salt mordant 4 5 Silk, Tannic acid mordant 4 4.5 Silk, Vinegar mordant 4 5 Rit Liquid Dye (Commercial dye) - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant 2.5 4.5 Natural Cotton, no mordant 2 4 Natural Linen, no mordant 1 3.5 Silk, no mordant 2 3.5 Note: 5 is the most resistant to color abrasion (no color transfer), 1 is the least resistant to color abrasion (a big amount of color transfer); compared used the AATCC Color Scale Transfer chart
Table 2. Results of AATCC 116: Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method Results by Dye and Mordant Dye Mordant Average Wet Score Average Dry Score Causurina equisetifolia Ironwood None 4.3 4.9 Clidemia hirta Koster’s curse None 3.6 4.6 Salt 4.5 5 Tannic Acid 3.8 4
411 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7
Vinegar 4.3 4.5 Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Hibiscus None 4.3 5 Salt 4.8 5 Tannic Acid 4.3 5 Vinegar 4.3 5 Lantana camara Spanish Flag None 4.9 5 Psidium cattleianum Strawberry guava None 4.4 4.9 Salt 4.5 5 Tannic Acid 4.5 4.8 Vinegar 4.5 4.8 Spathodea campanulata African Tulip /trumpet flower None 3.8 4.8 Salt 4 5 Tannic Acid 4 4.8 Vinegar 3.8 5 Rit Liquid Dye (Commercial dye) None 1.9 3.9
2. AATCC 66: Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics: the samples sit for five minutes. After the allotted five Recovery Angle (Option 2) minutes for pressing, the samples were removed from Two 1 x 3.5 cm. pieces were cut from each dyed the metal leaves and plastic press, and allowed to sit in swatch, one along the fabric’s warp grain and one room temperature for another five minutes to recover along the fabric’s weft grain, avoiding the area on the from the wrinkling. Lastly, the pieces were measured swatch that had been tested using AATCC 116. in the metal leaves (due to their small size) using the wrinkle recovery disk and protractor. The recovery These pieces were folded and placed into the angles were recorded; larger angles show a better metal leaves. Following this, those leaves containing recovery from wrinkling than smaller angles. the cut fabric samples were placed into a plastic press, followed by placing a 5 lb weight on them and letting Table 3 AATCC 66 Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle (Option 2) Dye/Fabric/Mordant Combination Warp Angle Weft Angle Undyed Swatches - - Bleached Cotton 25 (twist)° 41° Undyed Natural Cotton 31° 29° Undyed Natural Linen 2° 3° Undyed Natural Silk 41° 41° Causurina equisetifolia Ironwood - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant 19° 31° (st) Natural Cotton, no mordant 5° 9° Natural Linen, no mordant 0° 0° Natural Silk, no mordant 58° 19° Clidemia hirta Koster’s curse - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant < 0° 3° (twist) Natural Cotton, no mordant 14° 1° Natural Cotton, Salt mordant 19° 0° (st)
412 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7
Dye/Fabric/Mordant Combination Warp Angle Weft Angle Natural Cotton, Tannic acid mordant 11° 28° Natural Cotton, Vinegar mordant 20° 25° Natural Linen, no mordant < 0° 2° Silk, no mordant 41° 41° Silk, Salt mordant 40° 41° Silk, Tannic acid mordant 29° 39° Silk, Vinegar mordant 53° 28° Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Hibiscus - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant 5° (twist) 9° (st) Natural Cotton, no mordant 3° 1° Natural Cotton, Salt mordant < 0° 21° Natural Cotton, Tannic acid mordant 19° 0° Natural Cotton, Vinegar mordant 0° 0° Natural Linen, no mordant < 0° < 0° Silk, no mordant 23° 8° Silk, Salt mordant 19° 19° Silk, Tannic acid mordant 31° 28° Silk, Vinegar mordant 49° (st) 7° Lantana camara Spanish Flag - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant 51° 2° (twist) Natural Cotton, no mordant 5° (st) 8° Natural Linen, no mordant 0° < 0° Silk, no mordant 21° 30° Psidium cattleianum Strawberry guava - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant 39° (twist) 17° Natural Cotton, no mordant 21° 25° Natural Cotton, Salt mordant 15° < 0° Natural Cotton, Tannic acid mordant 25° 46° Natural Cotton, Vinegar mordant 12° 9° Natural Linen, no mordant < 0° 0° Silk, no mordant 55° 55° Silk, Salt mordant 20° 3° Silk, Tannic acid mordant 31° 29° Silk, Vinegar mordant 30° 22° Spathodea campanulata African Tulip/trumpet flower - - Bleached Cotton, no mordant 27° (twist) 0° Natural Cotton, no mordant 5° 0° Natural Cotton, Salt mordant 44° 7° Natural Cotton, Tannic acid mordant < 0° < 0° Natural Cotton, Vinegar mordant 0° 3° (twist)
413 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7
Dye/Fabric/Mordant Combination Warp Angle Weft Angle Natural Linen, no mordant < 0° < 0° Silk, no mordant 0° (twist) < 0° Silk, Salt mordant 11° < 0° Silk, Tannic acid mordant 11° 30° Silk, Vinegar mordant 29° (twist) 29° Rit Liquid Dye (Commercial dye) Bleached Cotton, no mordant < 0° (twist) 15° (twist) Natural Cotton, no mordant 0° < 0° Natural Linen, no mordant < 0° < 0° Silk, no mordant 10° 72° Note: The larger the recovery angle is, the better the fabric’s recovery from wrinkling. Slight twist is marked as st
Table 4 AATCC 66: Average Recovery Results by Dye and Mordant Dye Mordant Average Warp Average Weft Undyed Swatches None 24.8° 28.5° Causurina equisetifolia Ironwood None 20.5° 14.8° Clidemia hirta Koster’s curse None 13.8° 11.8° Salt 29.5° 20.5° Tannic Acid 20° 33.5° Vinegar 36.5° 26.5° Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Hibiscus None 7.8° 4.5° Salt 9.5° 20° Tannic Acid 25° 14° Vinegar 24.5° 12.3° Lantana camara Spanish Flag None 19.3° 10° Psidium cattleianum Strawberry guava None 28.8° 24.3° Salt 17.5° 1.5° Tannic Acid 28° 37.5° Vinegar 21° 15.5° Spathodea campanulata African Tulip/trumpet flower None 8° 0° Salt 27.5° 3.5° Tannic Acid 5.5° 15° Vinegar 14.5° 16° Rit Liquid Dye (Commercial dye) None 2.5° 43.5° Note: Any recorded value as <0° on Table 3 has been factored into the average as 0°.
414 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7
3. Chromatography paper testing travels. This suggests the rate at which the fabric
Grain chromatography paper (3 mm) was torn swatches absorb the dye molecules [22] Implications into 2 x 13 cm. strips. Using a 1 mL dropper, a drop of of a high Rf value are that there is a higher dyeability (further concentrated) dye was placed about 2.5 cm (1 rate of fabrics. inch) away from one end of the chromatography paper This test was repeated twice. Chromatography strip. About a 1 cm deep pool of solvent (acetone) was strips from the first trial did not show the dyes placed in a beaker, covered with foil to keep the traveling up the strip, therefore, many of the natural acetone from evaporating out of the container. After dyes were boiled down into a more concentrated form creating a slit in the foil, a wood stick and paper clamp and once again run through testing. Some were used to suspend the marked chromatography chromatography strips were placed in a light box and strip into the solvent pool. We measured the retention required ultraviolet light to determine the results. factor (Rf) value using this formula: Although this test was used to see if dye Rf = (distance traveled by dye solute)/ (distance molecule size was a factor in the dyeability of the traveled by solvent) fabric, due to the results of the test, the TLC was not The closer the Rf value is to 1, the fast the dye significant to the evaluation of color retention.
Table 5 Results and Images of Paper Chromatograph : Rf values
Dyes Used in Testing Pictures Rf Values
Causurina equisetifolia .038
Clidemia hirta .037
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis .977
Lantana camara .027
Psidium cattleianum .043
Spathodea campanulata .938
Rit Liquid Dye (Commercial dye) 1
other, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Spathodea campanulata, Discussion and Conclusion and Psidium cattleianum produced the most even and vibrant coloration. Furthermore, AATCC 66 results Discussion show that on average, these three dyes had the least When the natural dyes are compared against each physical effect on the recovery of fabrics from
415 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7 creasing and wrinkling, as the averages produced for color saturation of dye samples and high Rf values warp and weft are the closest to the averages for the seem to be linked, Rf and colorfastness are not. It is un-dyed test swatches. possible that Rit dye received lower colorfastness because there was more dye coating the sample, Hibiscus has the highest average results for although every sample had been dried and rinsed for colorfastness against dry abrasion. Similarly, even periods of time. Thus, when placed under testing, Causurina and Lantana also have high average scores, more dye came off the swatch onto the crockmeter however, they reveal little visible color and yielded testing square. However, the Rit dye samples had not little dye. Unfortunately, a greater amount of dyestuff been pre-treated with dye set, which may have made a had been needed to create enough dye for dyeing difference in the swatches’ color retention. mordant-prepared samples, but was unable to be found within the allotted time of this research. Furthermore, In addition, all of the natural dyes had to be the yield for color had been too little and not enough reduced by boiling them down a second time from the plant matter had been accumulated to create a original dye recipe, which had been used to dye the sufficient amount of viable dye color, even with the original swatches. This was in order to receive Rf two to one plant matter weight ratio. The yield was too readings from the paper chromatography test, as all low to show any significant results. natural dye Rf values were 0 when first tested. The dyes were boiled down once more until half of the dye Colorfastness results also reveal that swatches solute amount remained, and even with that reduction prepared with dye-sets beforehand on average retained completed, only two natural dyes, Hibiscus and color better than swatches without mordant. This is Spathodea produced Rf value readings well above 0. especially true for color retention against wet abrasion. Therefore, the dyes that had been used for the paper Salt seems to be the most effective mordant overall, chromatography test would, hypothetically, produce however, it is possible that salt is only effective for more vibrantly colored-swatches, due to the higher dyes made from plant matter. In addition, it may be concentration of color pigment in the dye solute. possible that tannic acid, which was the least effective mordant according to scores, particularly in Another problem that was possibly encountered combination with dye made from Clidemia, needs to during the chromatography testing is the amount of be made with a higher concentration of tomato plant dye stuff used on the test strips, and the way the dye matter to water. Yet, the results generally show that itself was produced. It is possible that 1-mL was too dye-sets do make a difference in color retention of much dye solute for the solvent to move along the natural dyes, and that such mordants need not be chromatography paper, hence most of the low Rf chemically based compounds. However, the ability of results. Previous research utilized a mirco-pipette for the mordant to affect the staying power of natural dyes thin-layer chromatography tests, however, other labs may depend on the batch, and admittedly, may need to utilized a regular mL-pipette for testing which resulted be somewhat more concentrated in order to make a in feasible outcomes. greater difference. Therefore, it is also possible that in the creation
Rf values from the chromatography testing also of these natural dyes for testing, that the plant matter reveals a higher concentration of colored pigment in was not reduced into small enough pieces. This may the Rit dye than any other dye. While Hibiscus and also explain the lack of vibrant color for some of the Spathodea dye had the most vibrant colors and highest dyes, which may have increased if the dyestuff had Rf values out of all the natural dyes tested, they still been ground down more finely. While this step is not had lower Rf values than the Rit dye. However, while part of the method testing, it still has an effect that can
416 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7 only be seen once the dye swatches have been soaked, including ocean (salt) water and a more colored, and examined using standardized test carefully crafted version of tannic acid. methods. Increase of dyestuff amount to water ratio, in From these results, it is possible that the vibrancy order to produce more vibrant colors and test for of the dye, and thus its ability to be absorbed easily colorfastness with a more concentrated dye into textile, depends on two details: first, the dyestuff solute. matter to the ratio of the water it is dissolved in, and Use of different textile types, in order to test if second, the size of the dyestuff pieces, to increase or natural dyes can be absorbed by synthetic decrease the surface are of the dyestuff in order of the fabrics when using naturally occurring or pigment colors to be removed. However, color household-found dye sets. retention for natural dye samples seem to be effected To conclude, invasive species could potentially by pre-treatment with a mordant, and therefore, could be used for Hawaii’s sustainable environment in the potentially have increased staying power. creation of dyes for the apparel and textile industries. On a final note, it is also important to note the This research shows that there is potential in the use of results of wrinkle recovery test, as the results reveal these plants for making viable dyes, as the dyes can be what sort of physical changes in the hand of the fabric extracted using simple methods. However, in addition will take place when dye and dye set are applied. Rit to the suggestions stated above, there needs to be Dye produced the least wrinkling, however, for natural consultation regarding the use and discard of certain dyes pre-treatment with mordants also made a dye wastes that may result from the dye extraction difference in how the wrinkle recovery was affected. process. Furthermore, this process will need to be The dye with the most consistent wrinkle resistance monitored if implemented, as invasive species could test results was Psidium cattleianum, which revealed potentially spread as a result of careless use. the least change from the original, un-dyed swatches, and thus, the original hand and texture of the swatches. Acknowledgements These scores remained consistent even with the pre- treatment results. This project was supported, in part, by the College of tropical Agriculture and Human Resources Conclusion (CTAHR) Hatch research fund (360R) and UHM undergraduate student research. The results of this research reveal that natural dyes are a potential substitute for synthetic dyes for References mass production. However, more research needs to be completed in order to keep the natural dyes vibrant, 1. 1. Jong-nam, L. Science of natural dyes. consistent and more colorfast between batches. Koreana, Summer 2005, 58-63 (2005) Furthermore it is difficult to determine how the dyes 2. 2. Kadolph, S.J. Natural dyes: A traditional craft will be affected during production en masse, as this experiencing new attention. Delta Kappa experiment utilized natural dyes on a more minimal Gamma Bulletin, Fall 2008, 14-16 (2008) 3. 3. Weiss, W. Natural dyes: An international scale, due to the equipment available. pursuit: A report on colour congress 2002. Research suggests these other tests as possibility Surface Design Journal, Winter 2003, 12-15 for dye development: (2003)
Using different types of mordants for testing, 4. 4. Casselman, K.D. Praxis and paradox: Culture
417 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile, 2017.09, Vol.24, No.7
of natural dyes in Britain, 1750 – 1900. Textile, chromatography (HPTLC) analysis of 7 (1), 6-26 (2009). cannabinoids in urine samples of Cannabis 5. 5. Colombini, M.P., Andreotti, A., Baraldi, C., abusers. Indian Journal of Medical Research, Degano, I., Lucejko, J.J. Colour fading in 132, 201-208 (August, 2010) textiles: A model study on the decomposition of 15. 15. Sherma, J., Review of advances in the thin natural dyes. Microchemical Journal, (85), 174- layer chromatography of pesticides: 2004-2006. 182 (2007). Journal of Environmental Science and Health 6. 6. Moors, D. Jean-eology. Horse & Rider, 47 (6), Part B, 42, 429-440 (2007) 63. Retrieved from EBSCOhost. (2008). 16. 16. Oka, H., Ozeki, N., Hayashi, T., Itakura, Y. , 7. 7. Bechtold, T., Mussak, R., Mahmud-Ali, A., Analysis of natural colorings in foods by thin Ganglberger, E., and Geissler, S. Extraction of layer chromatography. Journal of Liquid natural dyes for textile dyeing from coloured Chromatography & Related Technologies, 30, plant wastes released from the food and 2021-2036 (2007). beverage industry. Journal of the Science of 17. 17. Ramírez-Durón, R., Ceniceros-Almaguer, L., Food and Agriculture, 86, 233-242 (2006). Salazar-Aranda, R., Salazar-Cavazos, M. and 8. 8. Ahmad, W.Y.W., Ruznan, W.S., Hamid, H.A., Waksman de Torres, N. , Evaluation of thin- Kadir, M.I.A., Yusoh, M.K.M., and Ahmad, M.R. layer chromatography methods for quality Nano-sized natural colorants from rocks and control of commercial products containing soils. AIP Conference Proceedings, 1217(1), Aesculus hippocastanum, Turnera diffusa, 515-519 (2010). Matricaria recutita, Passiflora incarnata, and 9. 9. Bishop Museum, Hawaii Biological Survey: Tilia occidentalis. Journal of AOAC Alien Species in Hawaii. (2009). International, 90 (4), 920-924 (2007)
418