©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 453 Amichai, Yehuda 410 Home of Shimon Rokach 123 amusement parks 324 Art 231 Ani’am Artists Village 249 Negev Artists’ House 307 animals 416-17 Negev Museum of Art 307 Apollonia National Park 152 Reuven Rubin House 113 Appelfeld, Aharon 410 Safed Candles 231 aquariums 323 Safed Craft Pottery 231 Arab Spring 385 Sheva Chaya Gallery 231 Arab–Israeli War 379-80, 382 Tsfat 231 Arabic 446-7 Tzfat Gallery of Mystical Art 231 Arad 305 arts 410-15, see also individual arts Arafat, Yasser 269, 370, 382-4, Ashkenazim 388-9 385, 386 1948 Arab–Israeli War 379-80, 382 Ash-Sham 372 Arava, the 321-3 4WD tours Atlit 174 Arbel National Park 212-13 Dahab 361-2 ATMs 431 Arch of Titus 373 Avdat 11, 314, 11 Neot HaKikar 301 archaeological sites 427 Nuweiba 358 Avdat National Park 314 Al-Beidha 352 Azrieli Observatory 125 Ancient Bathhouse (Nazareth) 194 A Ancient Park 246 Abbas, Mahmoud 368, 385, 404 Ancient Synagogue (Ein Gedi) 291 B Abdullah, assassination of King 382 Banias Nature Reserve palace Baha’i faith 161 Abu Ghosh 105 complex 251 Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 10, 158-60, 10 Abu Salem, François 413 Beit She’arim 180 Baha’i Gardens (near Akko) 186-7 Abu-Assad, Hany 415 Bethsaida 215 Bahje House 186-7 accommodation 425-7, see also Caesarea 177-9, 178 Balfour Declaration 378, 380 individual locations Capernaum 214 Banias Nature Reserve 251 language 444-5, 446 Chalcolithic Temple 289 Banksy 413 Acre, see Akko 69-71 Bar Kochba Rebellion 373, 376 activism 424 Crusader City 177-8 Bar, Shlomo 411 activities 19, 427-8, see also Herodium 266-7 Barak, Ehud 383, 404 individual activities Hisham’s Palace 276 Bar’am 238 adventure tours 315, 318, 327 Archaeological Park & Bar’am National Park 238 African Hebrew Israelites 390 Davidson Centre 52 Basilica of the Annunciation 193, Agamon HaHula 240-1 Kursi National Park 222 13, 198-9 Agnon, Shmuel Yosef 410 Little Petra Siq 352 basilicas, see churches, basilicas & chapels Aida Refugee Camp 275 Masada 296-8 Bat Sheva Dance Company 413 Ain al-Furtega 362 Mey Kedem 176 bats 416 air travel 436-7 Petra 341-4 Bauhaus 124 airport security 422 Sebastiya 281 beach camps 357, 426 Akhziv 188 Tel al-Sultan 275 beaches 18 Akhziv National Park 188 Tel Arad 306 Caesarea 179 Akko 14, 181-6, 183, 14 Tel Be’er Sheva 306 Eilat 325 Al-Aqsa Mosque 47, 51, 51 Tel Goren 290 Ein Bokek 298 Al-Bireh 268-71 Tel Maresha 106-7 Ein Gedi 291, alcohol 394 Tell Umm Amer 338 292 Al-Deir 344, 12 archery 318 Haifa 166 Alexander River 418 architecture 61, 124 Mineral Beach 296 Alexandrowicz, Ra’anan 414 area codes 432 Tel Aviv 8, 109, 125-6, 8 Al-Haram ash-Sharif 45, 47, 49, 50-1, Armageddon, see Megiddo Tiberias 209 375, 50-1 art galleries Beaufort 242 Al-Kasaba Theatre & Cinematheque 412 Beit Gertrude Gallery 175 Bedouin people 310, 391 Al-Khader Church 267 Canaan Gallery 231 beer 399 Al-Khazneh 341 Chelouche Gallery 122 Be’er Sheva 306-11, 308 Al-Naqba 380, 390 Dan Contemporary 118 Begin, Menahem 381 Al-Wu’ira 352 Ethiopian Jewish Handicrafts Beit Alpha Synagogue 205 Centre 307 Beit Guvrin Caves 106-7 Fig Tree Courtyard 231 Beit She’an 203-4 000 Map pages General Exhibition 230 Beit She’an National Park 203-4 000 Photo pages Helena Rubenstein Pavilion 118-19 Beit She’an Valley 203-6 454 Beit She’arim 180 Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah 174 Church of the Nativity 218, 260-1, Belvoir 204-5 Cave of Machpelah 279 11, 375 Benayoun, Amir 411 caves Church of the Pater Noster 72 Ben-Gurion airport 143-4, 145 Beit Guvrin Caves 106-7 Church of the Primacy of St Ben-Gurion, David 115, 312, 380 Cave of Machpelah 279 Peter 213 Ben-Gurion Desert Home 312 Cave of the 40 Holy Monks 194 Church of the Visitation 85 Bet Gabriel 221 Dodim Cave 289 Crusader Church 105, 269 Beta 389 Elijah’s Cave 166 Ethiopian Church 77 INDEX Bethlehem 11, 259-66, 262, 11 Flour Cave 300 Greek Orthodox Church of St George 282-3 Bezalel Academy of Arts & Design 413 Mt Sodom 300 Greek Orthodox Church of the biblical sites, see individual sites Rosh HaNikra 188 Annunciation 194 B-C Biblical Zoo 84 Sorek Caves 106 Jacob’s Well 281 bicycle travel, see cycling Zedekiah’s Cave 74 Lutheran Christmas Church 260 Bio Ramon 318 cell phones 432 Lutheran Church of the Redeemer 60 birds 419 cemeteries 220-1, 230-2, see Mensa Christi Church 194 birdwatching 419, 427 also tombs & burial sites Milk Grotto Chapel 262 Agamon HaHula 240 Cenacle 65 Monastery of the Twelve Apostles 214 Gamla Nature Reserve 249 Chagall, Marc 85 Mount of the Beatitudes 214, 198 International Birdwatching Centre Chain of Generations Centre 52 324 Chalcolithic people 371 Our Lady of the Ark of the Cov- enant 105 internet resources 419 chapels, see churches, basilicas & Russian Chapel of the Ascension 72 Neot HaKikar 301 chapels 75 Black Hebrews, see African Hebrew checkpoints 265 Israelites cheese 398 St Alexander’s Church 57 Bluwstein, Rachel 410 children, travel with 31-2 St Andrew’s Church 80 boat tours 185, 325 Christian peoples 390-1 St Anne’s Church 60-1 boat travel 437 Christianity 407-8 St Catherine’s Church 261 books Christmas 20, 23 St George’s Cathedral 74 environment 417 Church of the Holy Sepulchre 9, 55-7, St James’ (Jacques’) Cathedral 64 health 442 218, 56, 9, 101, 218-19 St Joseph’s Church 194 history 373, 376, 379 Church of the Nativity 218, 260-1, St Mark’s Chapel 64 politics 368, 405 11, 375 St Mary’s Syrian Orthodox Church religion 409 churches, basilicas & chapels 260 border crossings 27-30, 265 Al-Khader Church 267 St Porphyrius Church 337 border security 30, 265, 422 Basilica of Jesus the Adolescent 195 Synagogue-Church 194 Brenner, Yosef Hayim 410 Basilica of the Annunciation 193, Circassian people 203, 392 British Mandate 378-9, 380, 382 13, 198-9 Citadel (Tower of David) 53 budget 16, 425, 430 Basilica of the Transfiguration 201 City of David 69-71 Burnat, Emad 414 Cana Catholic Wedding Church 200 climate 16, 20-3 bus travel 438, 439 Cana Greek Orthodox Wedding Clinton, Bill 383 Church 200 business hours 428-9, see also Shabbat coffee 397, 398, 397 Chapel of Adam 57 Coloured Canyon 362 Chapel of the Ascension 72 Constantine the Great 375, 376 C Chapel of the Manger 261 consulates 429-30 Caesarea 12, 176-9, 178, 13 Christ Church 57 convents, see monasteries & convents Caesarea National Park 177-9 Church of All Nations 73 Coral Beach Nature Reserve 324-5 calendars 20, 371 Church of Dominus Flevit 72 costs 425, 430 Caliph Omar 375 Church of Mary Magdalene 72-3 courses camel treks 358, 361-2 Church of St Helena 57 cooking 345 Camp David 381, 383, 384 Church of St John 85 language 85, 167 camping 426 Church of St John the Baptist 60 Crusades, the 376, 377, 378 Canaan 372 Church of St Nicodemus & St Capernaum 214 Joseph of Arimathea 154 cultural centres car travel 438-9 Church of St Peter of Gallicantu 68 Ibdaa Cultural Centre 275 Cardo Maximus 62 Church of the Angels 266 International Center of Bethlehem (Dar Annadwa) 263 Carmel Market 112-13 Church of the Ascension 71-2 Palestinian Heritage Center 263 Church of the Dormition 66-8 culture Church of the Holy Sepulchre 9, Israeli 400-1 000 Map pages 55-7, 218, 56, 9, 101, 218-19 Church of the Multiplication of the Jewish Israeli 387 000 Photo pages Loaves & Fishes 213 Palestinian 402 INDEX C-G 455 191 134 396-7 Film Festival 414 Film Festival 414 414 415 Festival Docaviv International Documentary Documentary International Docaviv Akko 412 Festival Film Festival International Haifa 395 23, Festival Student Film International 412 Festival Israel 413 Festival Theatre Fringe Israeli 211 Ladder Festival Jacob’s 415 Film Festival Jerusalem 411 Parade Love 274 Oktoberfest 415 Film Festival Other Israel 395 20-1, Passover 395, Purim 398 22, Ramadan Music Festival Classical Sea Red 328 411 328, Jazz Festival Sea Red 395 Hashanah 22, Rosh 395 21, Shavuot 395 23, Sukkot Film LGBT International Aviv Tel 395 20, B’Shevat Tu 395 Kippur 22, Yom 391 368, documentaries 414-15 festivals history 378 415 resources internet climate 189 climate 191 highlights 190 resources internet 189 seasons travel costs 430 398 395, festivals halal 394 430 resources internet 394 kosher 447 445, language 394 times meal 395-8 special occasions G Galilee, Lower 189-223, 189-223, Lower Galilee, field schools 426 field schools 372 Filastin 414-15 films 368, 384 382, Intifada First 381 War Lebanon First 373 372, 42, Temple First 375 373, Josephus Flavius, 393-9, food football 261 football 431 exchange foreign 412 282, Theatre Freedom 250 fruit picking 236, 293 292 Beta Israel Beta 326-7 , see 324 396 Abu Gosh Vocal Music Festival 411 Music Festival Vocal Abu Gosh 413 Festival Carmiel Dance 362 Festival Dahab language 445, 447 445, language 436 change climate 420 resources internet border crossings 27, 29-30 27, crossings border 433-4 visas accommodation 328-30 accommodation 325-7 activities 325 beaches drinking 331 331 services emergency 331 entertainment 328 & events festivals 330-1 food 331 services medical shopping 331 323-5 sights 332 information tourist 327 tours 332 to/from travel within 332 travel F E Fence, Separation 268, 384, 413 384, 268, Separation Fence, 29-30 travel ferry 20-3 & holidays festivals Fatah 257, 370, 382, 384, 386, 404-5 386, 384, 382, 370, 257, Fatah 404-5 Salam Fayyad, 397, felafel Ein Gedi Nature Reserve 289, 289, Reserve Ein Gedi Nature 205-6 Ein Harod Ein Hod 174-5 251-2 Ein Kinya Ein Zivan 249 294-5 Einot Tsukim Shlomi 414 Eldar, electricity 429 413 El-Funoun 166 Cave Elijah’s 429-30 embassies 17 emergencies 416-20 issues environmental Jews, Ethiopian economy 370 economy 376 Milan 375, of Edict 356 Egypt 23 Eid al-Adha Eid al-Fitr 22 Eilat 323-32, etiquette 370 etiquette 20-3 events 17 rates exchange Ein Avdat National Park 313 National Park Avdat Ein 298-300 Ein Bokek 294-5 Ein Feshkha 294, Ein Gedi 289-91,

, 292 , 7 , 286 217 360 , safe travel safe 100 see , 6 , 2-3 Coexistence Trail 236 Trail Coexistence 427 resources internet 243 Beit Hillel Moshav 301 Neot HaKikar 315 Sde Boker 222 Galilee 209, of Sea climate 284 climate 418 issues environmental 287 geography 286 highlights hiking 290 285 resources internet 288 safety 299 288, 285, swimming 285 tours 284 seasons travel 288-9 to/from travel within 288-9 travel 179 Caesarea 324-5 Reserve Nature Beach Coral 361 Dahab Eilat 325-7 357-8 Nuweiba 293 D dress codes 370 codes dress 398-9 drinking 394, 398-9 drinks people 391 Druze 54 Gate Dung Aziz 405 Duwaik, Dalal, Yair 411 Yair Dalal, 412 Rap Dam 411 Shoshana Damari, 53-4 Gate Damascus 411 International Dana 413 318, dance dangers, 410 390, 382, Mahmoud Darwish, 371 dates King 371 David, 52 Centre Davidson 284-302, 6, Sea Dead Dahab 359-64, 359-64, Dahab currency 16 currency 429 regulations customs 439 437-8, 427, cycling Dead Sea Scrolls 81-2, 294, 295 294, 81-2, Scrolls Sea Dead 417 deforestation 419-20 development Camp 275 Dheisheh Refugee 442 diarrhoea Jewish 374 Diaspora, with 433 travellers disabilities, 428 diving & snorkelling 323-4 Reef Dolphin 408, 216, 47-9, 6, the Rock of Dome 456 Galilee, Upper 224-44, 225 Shabbat 167 hilltop youth 259 climate 224 shopping 172 hip-hop 411, 412 highlights 225 sights 158-66 Hisham’s Palace 276 travel seasons 224 Stella Maris area 169 history 371-86 Gamla 248-9 tourist information 172 1948 Arab-Israeli War 379-80, 382 Gamla Nature Reserve 248-9 tours 167 books 373, 376, 379 Garden Tomb 73-4 travel seasons 156 British Mandate 378-9, 380, 382 gardens, see parks & gardens travel to/from 172-3 Byzantine Empire 375 INDEX gas masks 423 travel within 173 Crusades, the 376, 377, 378 gay & lesbian issues 402 Wadi Nisnas 165, 170 films 378 gay travellers 430 Halacha 401, 407 First Intifada 382, 384

G-I Jerusalem 97 halal 394 First Lebanon War 381 Tel Aviv 139 Hamas 257, 370, 383, 384-6, 404-5 Hamas control 384-6 Gaza City 336-8 Hamat Gader 223 372, 374 Gaza Strip 333-8, 334 Hamat Tveriya National Park 206 Hellenistic period 372 border crossings 27 hammams 281, 345 Holocaust, the 378, 381, 406 safe travel 423-4 Haniyeh, Ismail 404 Islam 375 Gethsemane, Garden of 73 Hanukkah 23, 395 Oslo Accords 382, 383, 385, 404 goat’s cheese 106 Haredim 75-7, 369, 401, 407 Ottoman Empire 376, 379 8, 224-5, 244-53, 225 headcoverings 407 partitioning of Palestine 379, 381 climate 224 health 441-3 prehistory 371 highlights 225 heat exhaustion 442 Roman Empire 372-5 Golan Trail 253 heat stroke 442 Second Intifada 384, 385, 386 Golden Gate 54 Hebrew 114, 444-6 Six Day War 380-1, 383 Good Fence 242 Hebrew Book Week 410 Yom Kippur War 381, 384 Gospel Trail 194 Hebrew University of Jerusalem 380 376-8 government 403-5 Hebron 278-80 hitchhiking 439 Great Jewish Revolt 373, 375 Heichal Shlomo 79 holidays, see festivals & holidays Grossman, David 410 Herod the Great 373, 374 Holocaust, the 378, 381, 406 Herodium 266-7 horse riding Herod’s Gate 54 Jericho 274 H Herzl, Theodor 83, 377, 388 Merom Golan 250 Habibi, Emile 410 Herzliyya 151-2 Hadad, Sarit 411 Petra 345 Hezbollah 385, 386 Hadrian 373, 376 Sea of Galilee 215 hiking 18, 247, 427-8 HaElla Valley 106 Hula Nature Reserve 241 Banias Nature Reserve 251 Hai-Bar 417 Hula Valley 240-1 Coexistence Trail 236 Haifa 156-7, 158-73, 159, 162-3 hummus 14, 393, 397, 14 Dead Sea 290 accommodation 156, 167-9 Ein Avdat National Park 313 activities 166-7 Golan 247 I Carmel Centre 161-3, 168-9, 170 Golan Trail 253 Ibrahimi Mosque 218, 279, 218 climate 156, 157 Gospel Trail 194 ice skating 242 courses 167 internet resources 427-8 Ice Space 324 Downtown & Port Area 165 Jesus Trail 190 immigration 387, 388, 392 drinking 170-1 Inn of the Good Samaritan 277 Judean Desert plateau 290 emergency services 172 insect bites 442-3 Kfar Tavor 202 entertainment 171-2 insurance 430-1 Kinneret Trail 213 food 156, 169-70 International Centre of Bethlehem 414 Makhtesh Ramon 316-17 German Colony 163-4, 168, 169-70 internet access 431 Masada 296-7 Hadar 164-5, 169, 170 internet resources 17 Mt Sodom 300 highlights 157 accommodation 426 Mt Tabor 201 internet access 172 birdwatching 419 Mt Zefahot 327 internet resources 172 cycling 427 Nahal Iyyun Nature Reserve 242 Masada 170 environment 420 Nakhal Gishron Negev 313 medical services 172 film 415 Neot HaKikar 301 Port Area & Downtown 168, 169 food 430 Petra 344 health 441 safety 247 hiking 427-8 Shehoret Canyon Wadi Bokek 298 000 Map pages music 412 Wadi Daraja 295-6 000 Photo pages politics 404 Yehudiya Nature Reserve 247-8 457 safe travel 422 safety 43 kibbutzim tourist information 432-3 Shabbat 87 accommodation 426-7 tours 440 shopping 98-9, 102 Ein Harod 205-6, 206 Intifada, First 382, 384 sights 44-105 Ein Zivan 249 Intifada, Second 384, 385, 386 tourist information 102-3 Kibbutz Degania Alef 221 Islam 375, 408-9 tours 85-6 Kibbutz Lohamei HaGeta’ot 187 Islamic Jihad 383, 386 travel seasons 38, 39 Kibbutz Lotan 321-2 Israel Defence Forces 369, 400-1 travel to/from 103 volunteering 434-5 Israel Festival 412 travel within 39, 103-5 King David 371 INDEX Israel Museum 81-2, 414 walking tour 58-9, 58 King David’s Tomb 65, 218, 219 Israel Nature & Parks Authority 418 88-9 King’s City & Funtasia 324 Israel Philharmonic Orchestra 412 Jerusalem Archaeological Park & Kinneret Trail 213 I-M Israeli–Palestinian conflict 368, 414 Davidson Centre 52 kippa 407 itineraries 24-6 Jerusalem International Book Fair 410 Kiryat Shmona 241 Jerusalem Syndrome 81 Kishon, Ephraim 410 J Jesus of Nazareth 373, 374, 407, 408 kite surfing 326 Jacob’s Ladder Festival 211 Jesus Trail 190 Klezmer 411 Jewish peoples 387-9 Jaffa 14, 146-51, 148, 14, 134 Knesset 82-3, 403 Ashkenazim 388-9 Jaffa Gate 54 Koran, see Quran Beta Israel 389 Janco, Marcel 413 Korazim National Park 215 Haredim 75-7, 369, 401, 407 Jenin 282-3 kosher 394 Mizrahim 389 Jericho 216, 274-8, 371 Kursi National Park 222 Sephardim 388 Jerusalem 38, 40-1, 66-7 Jewish settlers 258-9, 384, 386 accommodation 38, 87-92 L Jezreel Valley 203-6 64-5 Labor Party 404 Jezreel Valley Railway 222 children, for 84 Ladino 388 Jish 236-7 55-60 Lag BaOmer 238 Jordan 341 City Centre 74-9, 87-8, 93-4, 96-7, Lakiya Negev Weaving 312 border crossings 27-30 76-7 languages 444-7 visas 434 climate 38, 39 Arabic 446-7 Jordan–Egypt ferry 29-30 courses 85 courses 85, 167 Jordan River 245 drinking 96-7 Hebrew 114, 444-6 Judah 372 73, 91, 95-6, 97 Ladino 388 Judaica 414 Ein Kerem 84-5 Yiddish 389 Judaism 400, 401, 406-7 emergency services 102 Last Supper 65 customs 394, 407 entertainment 97-8 Latrun 107 Kabbalah 377 festivals & events 86-7 Law of Return 388 ultra-Orthodox 75-7, 369, 401, 407 food 38, 92-6 legal matters 431 Judea 372 gay & lesbian travellers 97 leishmaniasis 441-2 German Colony 80, 91-2, 94-5 lesbian travellers 430 & Museum Row 81-3 K Jerusalem 97 Har Hazikaron 83-4 Kabbalah 377 Tel Aviv 139 highlights 40-1 Kadima 403 literature 410-11, see also books internet access 102 Kadita 238 Livni, Tzippi 403 internet resources 39, 103 Kafr Kana 200-1 Lot’s Wife 300 itineraries 44 Kanafani, Ghassan 411 lunisolar calendar 376 Jewish Quarter 62-4 Katsav, Moshe 403 Kidron Valley 68-71 Katyusha rockets 242 Katzrin 244-7 M 88-9 Maccabee, Judah 372, 374 kayaking 215, 245 Mea She’arim 75-7 15, 77-8, keffiyehs 382 medical services 102 95, 15 Kfar Kama 203 Mount of Olives 71-3 Makhtesh HaGadol 311 Kfar Kisch 202-3 Mt Zion 65-8 Makhtesh HaKatan 311 Kfar Tavor 202 Muslim Quarter 60-2 Makhtesh Ramon 12, 316-17, 12 Khalifeh, Sahar 411 44-65, 92-3, 96, 46-7 makhteshim 311 Khalil Sakakini Centre 414 92 Mamluk architecture 61 Khan al-Sultan 61 & Talbiyeh 80-1, 91-2 Mamshit 314 Khan Younis 338 religious services 86 Mamshit National Park 314 Kibbutz Contemporary Dance & Mekor Baruch 92 Company 413 Manger Square 260 458 maps 431 mosques Herzliyya Museum of Modern Mar Saba Monastery 268 Al-Amari Mosque 208 Art 152 markets Al-Aqsa Mosque 47, 51, 51 Ilana Goor Museum 149 Bedouin Market 307 Al-Jazzar Mosque 182 Israel Museum 81-2, 414 Carmel Market 112-13 Al-Kebir Mosque 165, 281 Israeli Air Force Museum 311-12 Flea Market (Jaffa) 149 Esteklayl Mosque 165 Jabotinsky Institute 114-15 Mahane Yehuda Market 15, 77-8, Great Mosque 337 Janco-Dada Museum 175 95, 15 Hassan Bek Mosque 123 Joe Alon Regional & Folklore

INDEX Centre 311 Nahalat Binyamin St craft Ibrahimi Mosque 218, 279, 218 John Deere Land 202 \market 113 Masjid Jenin al-Kabir 282 Souq al-Qattanin 62 Kibbutz Sdot Yam & the Caesarea Mosque of Omar 262-3 Museum 179 M-N Masada 10, 296-8, 373, 374, 375, Mosque of Said Hashim 337 10, 293 LA Mayer Museum for Islamic Mosque of the Ascension 72 Art 80-1 Mayat el-Wishwashi 362 White Mosque 195 Latrun Armored Corps Museum 107 Mayumana 413 motorcycle travel 438-9 Madatech 164-5 Mea She’arim 75-7 Mount of Olives 15, 71-3, 216, 15, 216 Mane Katz Museum 161 measures 435 Mount of Temptation 275-6 Masada Museum 296 medical services 441, 443 Mt Ardon 317 Museum of Bedouin Culture 311 Megiddo 180-1 Mt Bental 250 Megiddo National Park 180 Museum of Hungarian Speaking Mt Gerizim 280 Jewry 232 Meir, Golda 381, 403 Mt Gilboa 204 Museum of Italian Jewish Art & Mer-Khamis, Juliano 412, 414 Mt Hermon 253 Synagogue 79 Merom Golan 250 Mt Meron 235-8 Museum of Underground Prisoners Meshushim (Hexagons) Pool 248 182, 184 Mt Sinai 216, 364-6, 217 Metula 241-3 Museum on the Seam 74, 414 Mt Sodom 300 Metzukei Dragot 295 Nabataean Museum 343 Mt Tabor 201-2 Mey Kedem 176 Nachum Gutman Museum of military service 400-1 Mt Zion 65-8, 218, 219 Art 122 Miller, James 414 mountain biking 427, 300, 301, see Negev Museum of Art 307 also cycling minefields 246, 424 Nisco Museum 175 mountain goats 312 Mini Israel 107 Okashi Art Museum 184 Munich Olympics 383 Mi’raj 375 Old Bethlehem Museum 263 Muqata’a 269 Mitzpe Ramon 316, 316 Old Jaffa Visitors Centre 149 museums Mizrahi music 411 Old Yishuv Court Museum 62-3 Aaronsohn House Museum 176 Mizrahim 389 Olympic Experience 125 Alone on the Walls Museum 62 mobile phones 432 Open Museum of Photography 241 Beit Hatefutsoth 124 Mohammed 375, 377, 408 Palmach Museum 125 Ben-Gurion Museum 115 monasteries & convents Ramla Museum 154 Bialik House 113 Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah 174 Rockefeller Museum 73 Bible Lands Museum 82 Crusader Monastery 105 Samaritan Museum 280 Bloomfield Science Museum 84 Ethiopian Monastery 57, 60 Tel Aviv Museum of Art 118, 414 Latrun Monastery 107 Burnt House 63-4 Ticho House (Beit Ticho) 79 Mar Saba Monastery 268 Circassian Heritage Center 203 Tikotin Museum of Japanese Monastery of the Cross 83 Clandestine Immigration & Naval Art 163 Museum 165-6 Monastery of the Dormition 66-8, Tower of David Museum 53 100 Clore Garden of Science 145 Treasures in the Wall Museum 184 Monastery of the Qurantul 275-6 Design Museum Holon 126 Weizmann House 145 St George’s Monastery 276 Discover Tel Aviv Centre 122 Wohl Archaeological Museum St Katherine’s Monastery 364-5 Eretz Israel Museum 125 (Herodian Quarter) 64 St Peter’s Monastery 149 Etzel Museum 123 Yitzhak Rabin Centre 125 Stella Maris Carmelite Monastery First Aliya Museum 176 music 369, 411-12 166 Galil Nature Center 243 festivals 211, 328, 411 Monastery, the (Al-Deir) 344, 12 Golan Archaeological Museum 244-5 internet resources 412 money 16, 429, 431-2 Haganah Museum 119 Muslim peoples 389-90 Montfort 187-8 Haifa Art Museum 165 Moshav Amirim 235-6 Haifa City Museum 164 N HaMeiri Museum 229 Nabataeans 314, 373, 340, 343 Hammam al-Pasha 184 Nabi Musa 276, 272 000 Map pages Hazor Museum 240 Nablus 280-2, 273 000 Photo pages Herzl Museum 83 Nahal Ardon 317 459 Nahal Iyyun Nature Reserve 242 O travel seasons 339 Nahariya 187 Odem 251 travel to/from 340-1 Nakhal Gishron Nalaga’at Centre olives 397, 397 phonecards 432 412 Olmert, Ehud 384, 403 pita bread 397, 396 Napoleon Bonaparte 378 opening hours 428-9, see also Shabbat planning Napoleon’s Citadel 337 Oskar Schindler, grave of 65 budgeting 16, 425, 430 Naqba Day 21 Oslo Accords 382, 383, 385, 404 calendar of events 20-3 Nasser, Gamal Abdel 380 Ottoman Empire 376, 379 children 31-2 national parks 418 INDEX Oz, Amos 410 internet resources 17 Akhziv National Park 188 Israel & the Palestinian Territories’ Apollonia National Park 152 basics 16-17

Arbel National Park 212-13 P Israel & the Palestinian Territories’ N-R Avdat National Park 314 Palace of the Lady Tunshuq 61 regions 33-5 Bar’am National Park 238 Palestine Liberation Organisation itineraries 24-6 382-3, 405 Beit She’an National Park 203-4 travel seasons 16, 425 Palestinian Authority 368, 383, 404-5 Caesarea National Park 177-9 plants 416-17 Palestinian Legislative Council 405 Platform 280 Ein Avdat National Park 313 Palestinian National Council 405 poetry 410 Hamat Tveriya National Park 206 Palestinian National Theatre 412 political protests 424 Korazim National Park 215 Palestinian Social Cinema Arts Kursi National Park 222 Association 415 politics 368, 403-5 Mamshit National Park 314 Palestinian Women’s National Soccer books 368, 405 Megiddo National Park 180 Team 261 internet resources 404 Qumran National Park 294 parachuting 297, 307 Israel 368, 384, 403-4 Tel Arad National Park 306 parks & gardens Palestinian Territories 368, 384, 385, 404-5 Tzipori National Park 201 Agamon HaHula 240-1 pollution 419 nature reserves Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 10, Pontius Pilate 373 Alonei Yitzhak Nature Reserve 417 158-60, 10 Baha’i Gardens (near Akko) 186-7 Pool of St Helena 154-5 Banias Nature Reserve 251 Botanical Garden of Eilat 324 population 369 Coral Beach Nature Reserve 324-5 Charles Clore Park 123 postal services 432 Ein Gedi Nature Reserve 289, 293 Citadel Park 232 ‘price tag’ attacks 386 Gamla Nature Reserve 248-9 Desert Sculpture Park 318 public holidays, see festivals & Hula Nature Reserve 241 holidays Ein Gedi Botanical Garden 291 Nahal Iyyun Nature Reserve 242 Purim 395, 134 Festival Garden 182 Tel Dan Nature Reserve 243 Gan Ha’Atzmaut Park 115 Yehudiya Nature Reserve 247-8 Gan Ha’Em 163 Q Yotvata Hai-Bar Nature Reserve Gan Meir Park 115 Qalqilya 282 321 Garden of Gethsemane 73 Qasr al-Bint 342-3 Nazareth 13, 191-97, 200, 192, 13, Qasr al-Yahud 276-7 198-9 Garden Tomb 73-4 quad biking 361 Nebuchadnezzar 373 HaPisgah Gardens 147, 149 Qumran National Park 294 Negev Desert 303-32, 304 Majrase 222 Park HaYarkon 124-5 Quneitra Viewpoint 249-50 climate 303 Ursula Malbin Sculpture Garden Quran 408 highlights 304 160 safety 331 partitioning of Palestine 379, 381 travel seasons 303 R Passover 20-1, 395 rabies 442 Neot HaKikar 301-2 passports 433 Netanya 152-3 Rabin, Yitzhak 382, 383, 385 Israeli stamps 30 radio 17 Netanyahu, Binyamin 368, 383, Peretz, Moshe 411 403-4 Rafah 338 Petra 12, 339-52, 340, 342-3, 12, Neve Ativ 252 border crossing 29 346-7 rafting 245 New Testament sites 19, see also accommodation 339 individual sites Ramadan 22, 398 activities 344-5 news 17 Ramallah 268-71, 270, 273 ancient city 341-5 newspapers 17, 39 Ramat Dalton 237-8 food 339, 345 Night Journey, the 375, 409 Ramla 153-5, 154 highlights 340 Nimrod 252 Ras Abu Gallum Protectorate 359 itineraries 350 Nimrod Fortress 8, 251, 8 Red Canyon 332 planning 350, 351 refugee camps 275 Notre Dame de France Hospice 75 sights 341-4 Nuweiba 357-9 religion 400, 403, 406-9, see also tours 345, 349 individual religions 460 Ribat Bayram Jawish 61 sheruts 440 Ramban Synagogue 63 Rishon LeZion 147 shiva 395 Sephardic Ari Synagogue 229 Rishpon 153 Shivta 314 Tomb of the Patriarchs 218, 279, 218 roadblocks 423 Sinai 353-66, 354-5 Vittorio Veneto Synagogue 82 rocket attacks 242, 424 climate 353 Palaestina 372 Roman Empire 372-5 highlights 354-5 Room of the Last Supper 65 safe travel 356 Rosh HaNikra 188 T travel seasons 353 Taba 356-7 INDEX Rosh HaShanah 22, 395 Siq 341 border crossing 29 Rosh Pina 238-40 Siq al-Barid (Little Petra) 352 Tabgha 213-14, 218 rugby 261 Six Day War 380-1, 383 taboun 394 R-T skiing 253 Tal, Alon 416 S skydiving 297, 307 taxis 439 Sadat, Anwar 381 Small Wall 49 Taybeh 274 safe travel 422-4 snakes 443 Tel al-Sultan 275 Galilee 242 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling Tel Arad 306 Gaza Strip 423-4 soccer 261 Tel Arad National Park 306 Sodom 300-1 Golan Heights 246 Tel Aviv 8, 108-46, 110, 8, 134, 135 solar power 419 internet resources 422 accommodation 108, 127-30 Solomon, King 371, 372 Israel 422-3 activities 126-7 Solomon’s Pools 267 minefields 246, 424 beaches 109, 125-6 Sorek Caves 106 political protests 424 Central City Centre 112-15, 128-9, rocket attacks 242, 424 Souq al-Qattanin 62 131-3, 138 Sinai 356 spas 291, 298 children, for 128 West Bank 255, 423 sport 369 climate 108 Safed, see Tsfat springs courses 127 Saladin 376, 377 Ari’s Mikveh 230 drinking 138-9 Samaritan people 392 Ein Akev 313-15 East City Centre 118-19 Sandel, Ari 414 Ein Feshkha 294-5 Eastern Tel Aviv 125, 130, 137-8, 139 Saul, King 371 Ein Gedi Spring 289 emergency services 142 scenic flights 297 Hamat Gader 223 entertainment 139-41 Schindler, Oskar 65 Hamat Tveriya National Park 206 festivals & events 127 schug relish 394 Mary’s Well 194 food 108, 131-8 Sde Boker 312-16 Shulamit’s Spring 289 gay & lesbian travellers 139 Sea of Galilee 189-90, 212-15, 220-3, Tel Dan Nature Reserve 243 highlights 110 198-9 Tiberias Hot Springs 208-9 internet access 143 St Katherine’s Monastery 364-6 climate 189 internet resources 109, 143 St Stephen’s Gate (Lions Gate) 54 highlights 191 itineraries 113 Stations of the Cross 56-7, 58-9, 216, internet resources 190 medical services 143 58, 216 travel seasons 189 North City Centre 115-18, 129-30, street art 119, 413 Sebastiya 281 133, 136, 138, 116-17 Street of Facades 341 Second Intifada 384, 385, 386 Northern Tel Aviv 124-5 Subterranean Crusader City 184 Second Lebanon War 386 orientation 109 suicide bombings 383, 384 Second Temple 42, 372, 373, 374, 406 safety 112 Sukkot 23, 395 Separation Fence 268, 384, 413 Shabbat 131 Susanne Dellal Centre 413 Sephardim 388 shopping 141-2 Sykes-Picot Agreement 379 settlers, Jewish 258-9, 384, 386 sights 112-25 synagogues 19 Shabbat 370, 395, 401, 428 South City Centre 119-24, 130, Abuhav Synagogue 227-9 Shamir, Yoav 414 136-7, 138-9, 120-1 Ades Synagogue 78 Sharon, Ariel 383, 384 tourist information 143 Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue 227 Sharonim Stronghold 317 travel seasons 108 Beit Alpha Synagogue 205 Shashat 415 travel to/from 143-4 Ben Zakai Synagogue 63 Shavuot 21, 395 travel within 144-6 Capernaum synagogue 214 Shehoret Canyon Shemer, Naomi 411 walking tours 127 Caro Synagogue 227 Shepherds’ Field 266 Tel Dan Nature Reserve 243 Eliahu Ha’navi Synagogue 63 Tel Hai 241 Emstai Synagogue 63 Tel Hatzor 240 Great Synagogue 79 000 Map pages Tel Maresha 106-7 Hurva Synagogue 63 000 Photo pages telephone services 432 Istanbuli Synagogue 63 461 television 17 Turkish baths 281, 345 highlights 256 Tell Umm Amer 338 tzimmerim 425-6 internet resources 255 tels 107 Tzipori 201 itinerary 255 Temple Mount 45, 47, 49, 50-1, 375, Tzipori National Park 201 safe travel 255, 423 50-1 tours 258 Ten Lost Tribes 372 U travel seasons 254 terrorism 382, 383-4, 385 Umm el-Fahem Art Gallery 414 travel to/from 258-9 theatre 412-13 Underwater Observatory Marine Western Wall 8, 49-52, 218, 373, theft 429 Park 323 9, 100 INDEX Tiberias 206-12, 207 University of Haifa 160-1 Western Wall Tunnels 52 time 432 wildflowers 416

Time Elevator 79 wildlife 416-17 T-Z Timna Park 321 V wildlife reserves vacations, see festivals & holidays tipping 432 Bio Ramon 318 Valley of Jehoshaphat 69 Tomb of the Patriarchs 218, 279, 218 Yotvata Hai-Bar Nature Reserve 321 vegetarian travellers 393 tombs & burial sites windsurfing 428 Via Dolorosa 58-9, 216, 58, 216 Ben-Gurion graves 312 wine 18, 398 visas 17, 433-4 Cave of Machpelah 279 wineries visual arts 413-14 Garden Tomb 73-4 Adir Winery 237 volunteering 434-5 Jewish Sages’ Tombs 208 Bahat Winery 249 King David’s Tomb 65, 218, 219 Boker Valley Vineyard 307 Monastery, the (Al-Deir) 344, 12 W Carmel Winery 175-6, 398 Oskar Schindler, grave of 65 Wadi Arugot 290 Carmey Avdat Winery 307 Rachel’s Tomb 263 Wadi Daraja 295-6 Dalton Winery 237, 199 Royal Tombs 341 Wadi David 289-90 Golan Heights Winery 245-6, 398, 19 Wadi Meshushim 247 Tomb of Jehoshaphat 69 Odem Mountain Winery 251 Wadi Musa 345, 348-52, Tomb of the Patriarchs 218, 279, 218 348 Sde Boker Winery 307 Wadi Pratzim 300 Tomb of the Rashby 238 Tabor Winery 202 Wadi Qelt 276 Tomb of the Virgin Mary 73 Tishbi 176, 398 Wadi Sodom 300 tomb of Yasser Arafat 269 Yatir Winery 307, 398 Wadi Yehudiya 247 Tomb of Zechariah 69 women in Israel 368-9, 401 Wadi Zavitan 247 tombs of Shamaiya and Avtalion 236 women in the Palestinian Territories Wailing Wall, see Western Wall 402, 415 Tombs of the Kabbalists 230-2 walking, see hiking women travellers 435 Tombs of the Prophets 72 walking tours 58-9, 127, work 435 Treasury, the (Al-Khazneh) 341 58 Wall, Separation 268, 384, 413 Torah 406 Wasset Tourism Center 250 tourist information 432-3 Y waste management 419 tours 440, see also boat tours Yad Vashem 83-4 water 417-19, 443 train travel 222, 440 Yarden Harari 245 water parks travel seasons 16 Yardenit 221 travel to/from Israel & the Palestinian Dolphin Reef 323-4 Yehoshua, AB 410 Territories 436-7 Gai Beach Water Park 209 Yehudiya 248 travel within Israel & the Palestinian Shefayim Water Park 153 Yehudiya Nature Reserve 247-8 Territories 437-40 waterfalls Yiddish 389 travellers cheques 432 Banias Waterfall 251 Yiddishpiel 412 Treasury, the (Al-Khazneh) 341 David’s Waterfall 289 Yom Kippur 22, 395 Tree of Zacchaeus 274 Gamla Nature Reserve 249 Yom Kippur War 381, 384 trekking, see hiking Hidden Waterfall 290 Yotvata Hai-Bar Nature Reserve 321 Tsfat 11, 226-35, 228 Yehudiya waterfall 248 accommodation 233 Zavitan waterfall 248 courses 232 weather 16, 20-3, see also individual Z Zayad, Tawfiq 410 entertainment 234 regions Zedekiah’s Cave 74 festivals 233 websites, see internet resources Zichron Ya’acov 175-6 food 233-4 weights 435 Zion Gate 54 shopping 234-5 Weizmann Institute of Science 145 Zionism 376-81, 388 sights 226-32 West Bank 254-83, 256, 267 zoos tourist information 235 border crossings 27, 190 Biblical Zoo 84 tours 232-3 budget 255 Haifa zoo 163 travel to/from 235 checkpoints 265 Qalqilya zoo 282 Tu B’Shevat 20, 395 climate 254, 257-8 462

These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want: Look out for Driving Hiking Biking u k q these icons: Our author’s These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: o recommendation % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus No payment F required h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro A green or S sustainable option n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly j Tram Our authors have nominated i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly d Train these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by Reviews are organised by author preference supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.

Map Legend Sights Entertainment Routes Boundaries Beach Entertainment Tollway International Buddhist Freeway State/Province Shopping Castle Primary Disputed Shopping Christian Secondary Regional/Suburb Hindu Information Tertiary Marine Park Islamic Bank Lane Cliff Jewish Embassy/ Unsealed Road Wall Monument Consulate Plaza/Mall Hydrography Museum/Gallery Hospital/Medical Steps River/Creek Ruin Internet Tunnel Intermittent River Winery/Vineyard Police Pedestrian Swamp/Mangrove Zoo Post Office Overpass Reef Other Sight Telephone Walking Tour Canal Toilet Walking Tour Activities, Courses Water Tourist Information Detour & Tours Dry/Salt/ Other Information Path Diving/Snorkelling Intermittent Lake Canoeing/Kayaking Transport Geographic Glacier Skiing Airport Hut/Shelter Areas Surfing Border Crossing Lighthouse Beach/Desert Swimming/Pool Bus Lookout Walking Cable Car/ Mountain/Volcano Cemetery Windsurfing Funicular Oasis (Christian) Other Activity/ Cycling Park Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Ferry Pass Park/Forest Sleeping Metro Picnic Area Sleeping Monorail Waterfall Sportsground Camping Parking Population Sight (Building) Petrol Station Eating Capital (National) Taxi Top Sight Eating Capital Train/Railway (Building) (State/Province) Drinking Tram City/Large Town Drinking Other Transport Town/Village Cafe 451

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used Daniel Robinson the last edition and wrote to us with help- Special thanks to (from north to south) Ofer ful hints, useful advice and interesting Bashan, Yafa Na’ar, Dudu Pilas, Hanoch Tal, anecdotes: Joel Friedman, Inbar Rubin, Amichai and Te- Dan Arenson, Cecilia Arias, Garry Aslanyan, hila Yisraeli, Hezi Segev, Tal Ben David, Aviva Mohammed Barakat, Josh Berk, Catherine Minoff , Avraham Loewenthal, Baruch Adler, Black, Jan R Blok, Carolin Bruecker, Yaron Daniel Flatauer, David Friedman, Eyal Riess, Burgin, David Campbell, Victor Clarke, Eli Hava Lustig, Moshe Tov Kreps, Yair Moore, Direktor, Yaniv Divekar, David Drake, Bettina Naomi (Korazim NP), Katerina Halperin, Dunkel, Andreas Eskerod, Rainer Feichter, Amir Zouabi, Amir Zubij, Daher Zeidani, the Cyril Galland, Aline Gaub, John Grech, Mas- Fauzi Azar staff (especially Sami), Guy Côte, similiano Gugole, Sofie Hviid, Lars Jensen, Joseph Marotta, Maoz Yinon, Martina Shama, Peter Kargaard, Sharon Keld, Lisanne Ker- Ramzi Haj, Sister Noriko, Tony Kanaza, Sarah stens, Jennifer Killen, Hanna Lomeland & Yefet, Yafa Kfi r and Amiram, Meir Doron, Ofer Hadad, Nigel Mackenzie, Don Madge, Nissim Bados, Yair Huri, Yaron Burgin, David Aaron Magid, David Marchesi, Lena Moser, Berger, Gabi Zentner, Alon Reuven, Jacky Rachel Nassif, Carl O’Connor, Marcus Pail- Almakayyes, Raz Zabar and Gil Shkedi. The ing, Thomas Paschold, Maarten Pullen, extraordinary backstopping and forebear- Clive Roper, Alex Rosen, Dov Ruckenstein, ance of my wife, Rachel Safman, made this David Silverstone, Kristel Sjouw, James project possible. I dedicate my parts of this Smith, Camilla Standhart, Ward Van Alphen volume my fi rst-born son, Yair Lev Robinson. & Jolanda Maas, Christine Van Der Veer, Roman Varinsky, George Vick, Márcia Vinha, Michael Kohn Carmen Werner Davidson, Grit Wesser, Jeff A mighty thank you to editor Kate Morgan White, Heidi Wikström, Heleen Witte, Qian and fellow author Daniel Robinson for pull- Xiaoyan, Ziv Zafir ing this project together. In Israel, I received much help and camaraderie from Gal Mor and Yaron Burgin (Abraham Hostels), Katy and Ze’ev (Port Inn) Fred Schlomka (Green Olive Tours), Danny Flax (Allenby B&B), Imad 452 Muna (Educational Bookshop), Mike (Mike’s Jenny Walker Center) and my West Bank taxi drivers Returning to Petra is always the greatest of Waleed, Zafer and Bashir. A special shalom to pleasures, not just on account of the spec- Einav, Gal and the twins, Omri in Tel Aviv and tacular ancient city, but also because the Danny Golan in Jerusalem. Lastly, to Baigal kind folk of Wadi Musa continue to go out of and Molly who braved many long plane, train their way to be hospitable. While their assist- and automobile rides to make the journey ance in researching this chapter is very much with me, you made this the best trip yet. appreciated, I reserve greatest thanks for my

BEHIND THE SCENES Dan Savery Raz beloved husband, Sam Owen, who accompa- nied me during research and assisted im- Thanks to Erez Naim for being my human GPS measurably in resourcing further background in the Negev, Daniel Robinson for his Tel Aviv information during write-up. tips (kurtosh anyone?), Jason Levy for his bal- anced knowledge of Gaza and the ecofriendly volunteers of Kibbutz Lotan. Once again, I am ACKNOWLEDGMENTS indebted to all my family, especially Mum, Revi Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, and Yossi, Orit (for the car) and Evelyn (for the Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated kuba). Big shout to Dad for being a rock star World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate and Shiri Miller Raz for sharing the journey. Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44. Jessica Lee On the road a big thanks to Claire Craig, Illustrations p50–1, p346–7 by Michael Salma Nassar, Eric Monkaba, Muhammad Weldon. Ali, Gordon Wilkinson, Zoltan Matrahazi, and especially Salama Abd Rabbo. Back in Cairo Cover photograph: Roman ruins, Tel Beit huge cheers to Sameh Tawfi k, Mark Wal- She’an, Beit She’an National Park, Michael gemoet, Sarah Bruford, Paula Maiorano and DeFreitas/Getty Images Julian ‘Whijul’ White. While at Lonely Planet many thanks to Michael Benanav and Zora Many of the images in this guide are avail- O’Neill for awesome advice and to Kate Mor- able for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: gan for putting up with my endless questions. www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

THIS BOOK Kathleen Munnelly, Glenn van Assisting Editors Andrew der Knijff Bain, Jackey Coyle, Cathryn This 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Game, Carly Hall, Kim Hutchins, Israel & the Palestinian Territo- Coordinating Editor Kate Ross Taylor, Helen Yeates ries guidebook was researched Whitfield and written by Daniel Robinson Coordinating Cartog- Assisting Cartographers (coordinating author), Michael raphers Julie Dodkins, Marc Karusha Ganga, James Leversha Kohn, Dan Savery Raz, Jessica Milinkovic Cover Research Naomi Lee and Jenny Walker. The previ- Coordinating Layout De- Parker ous edition was written by Amelia signer Kerrianne Southway Internal Image Research Thomas (coordinating author), Managing Editors Brigitte Aude Vauconsant Michael Kohn, Miriam Raphael Ellemor, Anna Metcalfe, Martine Language Content Annelies and Dan Savery Raz. This Power Mertens guidebook was commissioned in Managing Cartographers Thanks to Elin Berglund, Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, Shahara Ahmed, Alison Lyall, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Dan and produced by the following: Adrian Persoglia Goldberg, Martin Heng, Andi Commissioning Editors Managing Layout De- Jones, Karyn Noble, Marg Toohey, Suzannah Shwer, Kate Morgan, signer Chris Girdler Gerard Walker ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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