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Israel & the Palestinian Territories

Israel & the Palestinian Territories

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Israel & the

Upper & p231 & the & North Coast p156 p195

Tel Aviv- (Yafo) p261 p112 p46 The Gaza The Strip p297 p292

The p315

Petra () p341

Daniel Robinson, Orlando Crowcroft, Anita Isalska, Savery Raz, Jenny Walker PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to & the JERUSALEM . . . . . 46 ...... 153 Palestinian Territories. . . 4 Around Jerusalem . . . . 109 ...... 154 Israel & the Palestinian Territories Map...... 6 Abu Ghosh...... 109 ...... 110 HAIFA & THE Israel & the Palestinian Territories’ Top 20 ...... 8 ...... 110 NORTH COAST. . . . 156 Need to Know...... 18 Soreq Cave ...... 111 Haifa...... 157 What’s New ...... 20 Beit Guvrin- Daliyat Al Karmel. . . . . 176 National Park ...... 111 If You Like… ...... 21 Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah...... 177 Month by Month. . . . . 23 - & Ayn Hawd. . . . 177 Itineraries ...... 28 JAFFA (YAFO). . . . . 112 ...... 179 Activities...... 32 Around Tel Aviv...... 151 Zichron Ya’akov...... 180 ...... 34 ...... 151 Mey Kedem...... 182 Crossing Borders. . . . . 36 ...... 151 ...... 182 Travel with Children. . . . 40 ...... 152 Akko (Acre)...... 185 at a Glance. . . . 42 DYZIO/SHUTTERSTOCK © EFESENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ST CATHERINE’S CHURCH P269 DANIELREINER /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HUMMUS P380 WOMAN PREPARING FLATBREAD Contents

UNDERSTAND

Kibbutz Lohamei WEST BANK. . . . 261 Israel & the HaGeta’ot...... 191 Palestinian Bethlehem...... 266 ...... 192 Territories Today. . . . . 356 Ramallah ...... 274 History...... 358 ...... 278 LOWER GALILEE & ...... 279 People of Israel & SEA OF GALILEE. . . 195 the Palestinian ...... 282 Territories...... 374 ...... 196 ...... 286 Regional Food...... 380 Kafr Kana...... 204 ...... 290 Tzipori...... 205 Daily Life...... 385 Mt Tabor Area...... 205 THE . . . . 292 Government & Jezreel & Beit Politics...... 388 She’an Valleys...... 209 Religion ...... 392 ...... 213 THE DEAD SEA. . . . 297 Sea of Galilee...... 219 ...... 300 Arts...... 396 Northwestern Shore . . . . 219 Northwestern Coast . . . . 306 Environment...... 402 Eastern Shore...... 228 ...... 307 Southwestern Shore. . . . 230 ...... 311 Sodom...... 312 SURVIVAL & Neot HaKikar ...... 313 GUIDE GOLAN...... 231 THE NEGEV. . . . . 315 Upper Galilee ...... 233 Safe Travel...... 408 Tsfat ...... 233 Be’er Sheva...... 317 Directory A–Z...... 411 Mt Meron Area...... 242 Negev Highlands. . . . 319 Rosh Pina...... 245 ...... 323 Transport...... 421 ...... 246 The Arava...... 328 Health...... 426 . . . . . 247 ...... 332 Language...... 429 ...... 252 Index...... 437 ...... 252 ...... 341 Southern Golan ...... 254 The Ancient ...... 343 Map Legend...... 446 Central Golan...... 255 ...... 346 Northern Golan...... 258 Al Barid ()...... 353 SPECIAL FEATURES Al Haram Ash Sharif/ Temple Mount 3D illustration ...... 56 Religious Sites. . . . 223 Petra Walking Tour 3D illustration ...... 350 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 28

Itineraries

LEBANON

Rosh HaNikra •# É É Sea of Akko •# Galilee

Haifa •# •# É •#Tiberias R Nazareth É

É Mt Carmel •#Beit She’an Caesarea •# É

MEDITERRANEAN SEA É

É

Tel Aviv•#

Jaffa É •# JORDAN JERUSALEM É

SAUDI É Dead Sea ARABIA Dead Sea •#

Masada •#

2 WEEKS Best of Israel

A whirlwind introduction to Israel’s most important historical, religious and natural sights. Spend your first four days in and around Jerusalem, including a couple of days wan- dering the alleys of the , exploring the Western Wall and the adjacent Temple Mount/Al Haram Ash Sharif, and following the Via Dolorosa to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Break out your swimsuit and hiking shoes for a full-day excursion down to the Dead Sea and up the storied stronghold of Masada. Next, head to the Mediter- ranean coast for three days around Tel Aviv, dividing your time between strolling, cycling, lounging on the beach, fine dining and watching the world go by. Next, head up the coast for a peek at Roman-era Caesarea before pushing on to Haifa. Check out the views from atop Mt Carmel and the Baha’i Gardens before a day trip to the walled city of Akko and the grottoes of Rosh HaNikra. After a day in Nazareth, concluded with a tongue-tingling ‘fusion’ dinner, head to Tiberias for a day exploring the storied shores of the Sea of Galilee. On the drive back to Jerusalem, stop at the Roman ruins in Beit She’an. 29

Banias ÷#•# Nimrod Fortress Reserve É

Rosh HaNikra •# É Rosh Pina Tsfat•# SYRIA

É •# •#Katzrin Akko É •# •# Haifa •# É•# Mt Carmel R •# Tiberias Zichron Ya'akov Nazareth •# •# •# Caesarea •# Daliyat Beit She’an TRIP YOUR PLAN

M E D I T E R R A N E A N Al É

S E A É Karmel É Tel Aviv •#

Jaffa •# É

•# É BeitBeit Guvrin–Guvrin-Maresha É National Park ÷# JERUSALEM •#Dead Sea SAUDI Masada •#

ARABIA It

i nerar É

JORDAN Mitzpe Ramon •# Ramon •# i es

EGYPT Suez É Canal

G U L F O F S U E Z Eilat •#

4 WEEKS Israeli Odyssey

Explore the best Israel has to offer from the Lebanese border to the . After four or five days in and around Jerusalem, including a couple of days exploring the Old City and a half-day visit to the Israel Museum, take a trip down to the wondrous caves at Beit Guvrin–Maresha National Park, stopping at a winery on the way. Next, stir it up in Tel Aviv for a few days, strolling along the beachfront promenade to historic Jaffa, biking along the and working on your Mediterranean tan. On your way north to Haifa, stop at the Roman ruins of Caesarea and the quaint old town of Zichron Ya’akov, famed for its vintage winery. After touring Haifa’s sublime Baha’i Gardens, visit Mt Carmel and the village of Daliyat Al Karmel. The next day, continue north to Akko, with its enchanting mixture of Crusader ruins and ­Ottoman relics. Next, go as far north as politics permit, to the subterranean grottoes of Rosh HaNikra, before heading inland for a couple of days in Nazareth, exploring Christian sites and dining on traditional Arab delicacies and East-West fusion dishes. Based in Tiberias for a couple of days, relax around the Sea of Galilee, combining ancient and Christian sites with quiet beaches and, perhaps, white-water rafting on the . Loop east to the Golan Heights, visiting the hilltop ruins of Gamla, the Golan Archaeological Museum in Katzrin and towering Nimrod For- tress. Circle west via the lush vegetation of to the of the Hula Valley, beloved by migrating birds; the quaint, cobbled streets of Rosh Pina; and Tsfat, suffused with the spirituality of the (Jewish mysticism). Finally, head south through the , strolling the colonnaded Roman thoroughfares of Beit She’an. After a starlit night on the shores of the Dead Sea, rise early to catch the sunrise from high atop Masada. Continue south into the Negev for a day or two around Mitzpe Ramon, including a hike into . The last stop, for a spot of sea, sun and snorkelling, is Eilat. DELTAOFF / SHUTTERSTOCK © ), 81 ), Ramallah 275 Above: Spices, Mahane Mahane Spices, Above: (p Market Yehuda Jerusalem Left: Tomb of Yasser Arafat (p

ANDREW V MARCUS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 30 31

LEBANON Golan •# Heights Jenin•# É •#

Akko É •# É •#

Amirim É

•# É Haifa TRIP YOUR PLAN É Sea of

É •# Nazareth •# Galilee Nablus

Mt GerizimR É JORDAN Jenin •#

É É Taybeh •# It

Ramallah i nerar É •# •# Nablus JORDAN •# Jericho

JERUSALEM •# É i es •# É •# Bethlehem

Tel Aviv É Dead Sea

•# JERUSALEM •# Dead Sea Hebron

Welcome to the 10 Culinary Trail 1 DAYS WEEK West Bank

From simple hummus to Arab- and This route takes you to the major Palestin- French-inspired gourmet meals, this tour ian and sights. of gastronomic hot spots takes in the Holy Start off at the Yasser Arafat Museum Land’s most delicious dishes. in Ramallah before jumping on a sherut Start in Jerusalem, where contenders up to Taybeh to check out the West Bank’s for the ‘best hummus’ title can be found in oldest brewery for an hour or two. Spend the Old City, and the foodie scene around your first evening either bar-hopping in the Mahane Yehuda produce market is Ramallah or hanging out with the locals worth exploring. For the country’s best in the cafes close to Manara Sq. The next gooey-­hot, cheesy-sweet kunafeh pastry, day jump on a bus to Nablus for a day head north to the West Bank city of Nab- of shopping in its enchanting market, lus and then sample extra-virgin oil scrubbing up at an ancient hammam and in Jenin. Make a beeline for Nazareth, visiting the Samaritans atop Mt Gerizim. where the buzzword is fusion. Continue your Up early the next day, grab a service to ­culinary pilgrimage on the shores of the Sea Jenin and check out the Freedom Theatre of Galilee with a lunch of St Peter’s fish and then either head back to Ramallah and then head to the Golan Heights for or spend a day staying with farmers near perfectly aged steak – paired, of course, with the northern village of Burqi’in. Take a Golan-grown red wines. Looping west, stop service to Jericho for a full day of sight- in Jish for Galilee-style Arab cuisine or drop seeing (perhaps two, if you want to see by the all-vegetarian settlement of Amirim everything). End your trip with a couple for meat-free treats. Finally, head to the of nights Bethlehem, with its winding Mediterranean coast, sampling seafood and lanes and ancient churches, and a day trip hummus in Akko, creative Arab cuisine in to the troubled city of Hebron, profoundly Haifa, and modern in Tel sacred to both and . Aviv, where glamorous restaurants run by celebrity chefs vie for attention with tradi- tional eateries serving hummus, and the local fast-food favourite, sabich. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 435

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

Shadi (Tel Dan); Talal (Mt Hermon); and, most OUR READERS especially, my wife Rachel and my sons Yair Many thanks to the travellers who used the last and Sasson for their support, understanding edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful and patience. advice and interesting anecdotes: Aileen Gerloff, Anna Thanou, Bill Davis, Caroline Guibet Lafaye, Orlando Crowcroft Dominik Armellini, Eran Globus, Frederik de Smedt, I would like to thank my friends Nigel Wilson Isabela Vera, Jannik Zijlstra, Jeroen van der Zeeuw, and Mary Pelletier in Ramallah, MC in Jerusa- Kirsty Westra, Nikolaj Albrecht, Petra Bischofberger, lem and Heidi Levine in Tel Aviv. A big shout out Sophie Millner, Thorsten Nieberg, Vibhor Garg to all the staff at Area D Hostel, Ayman at the Cinema Guesthouse in Jenin, Khoury and family in Taybeh and all those who made AUTHOR THANKS me feel welcome during my stay in the Pales- Daniel Robinson tinian Territories. I’d also like to thank my editor Special thanks to (from south to north): Chini Lauren Keith and fellow authors Anita Isalska, Da-Silva, Gili Bat-Sara, Eran Hejams, Jody Siro- Daniel Robinson and Dan Savery Raz. And my ta and Michael Chen (Eilat); Yair (Samar); wife, Helen, for everything. Alex Cicelsky, Doria Pinkas and Maya Galimidi Anita Isalska (Lotan); Anat Sha’ul (Ne’ot Smadar); and Ofra Faiman (Sde Boker); Gil Shkedi (Ne’ot Countless chance encounters and conver- HaKikar); David Lew (Masada); Lee, and sations enriched my research; thank you Shani (Ein Gedi Field School); Sliman (Ein Gedi to everyone who knowingly or unknowingly Nature Reserve); Eldad Hazan (/ guided my travels. I’m especially grateful Einot Tzukim); Nisim Bados (Beit She’an); Nati for the suggestions and insights from Noga and ­(Banias); Rachel Eshkol (Tzipori); Ido ­Tarnopolsky, Riman Barakat, Linda Gradstein, Itai and Amir Aviram (Gamla); Gregory and the Educational Bookshop & Cafe crew, and ­Hanoch (); Alon Malichi (Katzrin); for Slavica and Einav, who pointed me to some Omer Feldman and Ya’akov Leiter (Tsfat); Ron excellent tips. Deep thanks to Anna Heijblok, Tsvi, Amihai and Tehila (Rosh Pina); HaKupa’it whose stories of her Jerusalem will stay with Vera (Tel Hatzor); Mordechai Kohelet Israel me. And, as ever, heartfelt gratitude to Normal (Dalton); Tony (Jish); Rubin (Agamon Matt for cheerleading from the wings. HaHuleh); Anat Nissim (Galil Nature Museum); 436

Walker. This guidebook was McGregor, Rosie Nicholson, THIS BOOK produced by the following: Charlotte Orr, Christopher This 9th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Lauren Pitts Planet’s Israel & the Keith Assisting Cartographers ­Palestinian Territories guide- Carolyn Gabe Lindquist, Alison Lyall book was researched and Product Editors

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND ­Boicos, Elizabeth Jones, Anne Naomi written by Daniel Robinson,­ Cover Researcher Mason, Saralinda­ Turner Parker Orlando Crowcroft, Anita Isalska, Dan Savery Raz and Senior Cartographer Thanks to Nicholas Jenny Walker. The previous Valentina Kremenchutskaya ­Colicchia, Gwen Cotter, Helen edition was written by Daniel Book Designer Katherine Elfer, Sandie Kestell, Virginia Robinson, Orlando Crowcroft, Marsh Moreno, Ilana Myers, Lauren Virginia Maxwell and Jenny Assisting Editors Sarah ­O’Connell, Martine Power, ­, Carly Hall, Gabrielle ­Alison Ridgway, Kathryn Innes, Helen Koehne, Lou Rowan, Jacqui Saunders

Dan Savery Raz ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thanks to destination editor Lauren Keith Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, for kicking this project off and making it run Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated­ so smoothly. Also thank you to Maoz Inon World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate (travel entrepreneur and peace warrior), Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Yoram Hai (for vegan tips) and Bea Hemming Sciences, 11, 163344. (for ­recommending Bicicletta). Biggest thanks goes to my wife, Shiri, for looking after Cover photograph: Dead Sea, vvvita/ the kids while I tapped away on my laptop, Shutterstock ©. and my two girls, Hila and Maya, for always lllustrations pp56–7 by Javier Martinez ­making me smile. Zarracina, pp350–1 by Michael Weldon. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 437

Index

1948 Arab–Israeli War Arava, the 328-32 Canaan Gallery 238 Bauhaus architecture 366-7 National Park 219-20 Chelouche Gallery 120 17, 126 Arch of 360 Dar Zahran Heritage beaches 21 Building 275 Alma Beach 126 A archaeological digs 32, 111 Ein Hod Gallery 178 Beach 185 Abu Ghosh 109 archaeological sites, see also fortresses & Fig Tree Courtyard 238 Argaman Beach 189 accommodation 411-12, see palaces, historic sites, also individual locations General Exhibition Atlit 179 ruins 238 language 429, 431 Bat Galim Beach 166 Ancient Bathhouse 200 Helena Rubenstein Acre, see Akko Beit Yanai 179 Ancient City (Petra) 343-6 Pavilion 116 activities 23-7, 32-3, see also Bograshov Beach Ancient Katzrin Park 252 Ilana Goor Museum 129 individual activities 125 Beit She’an 15, 209-11, Kabbalah Art 238 African Hebrew of Coral Beach Nature Jerusalem 376 15, 206 Museum on the Seam 79 Reserve 332 Agamon HaHula 247 226 Museum Without Walls 163 Dado Beach 166 air travel 421, 422 Caesarea 13, 182-5, 184 Negev Artists’ House 317 Dekel Beach 333 Akhziv 193-4 15, 221, Safed Candles Gallery 235 Dolphin Reef Eilat 332-3 Akhzivland 193-4 226, 15 Sheva Chaya ­Glassblowing Gallery Dor 179 Akko (Acre) 14, 185-91, 75-6 238 188, 14 Crusader City 184 Ein Bokek Beach 20, 311 Studio Magal 178 Al Aqsa 59 Herodian Quarter Frishman Beach 125 Museum 67-8 Tel Aviv Museum of Al Beidha (Petra) 354 Gordon Beach 10, 124, Jerusalem Archaeological Art 116 Al Haram Ash Sharif 9, 53-9, 134-5 Park & Davidson Centre Tzfat Gallery of Mystical , Herzliya Beach 151 56-7 56-7 66-7 Art 238 Alexander Stream National Hilton Beach 125 Kursi National Park 228 arts 396-401, see also Park 154 Metzitzim Beach 220 individual arts Alma Beach 126 124-5 Masada 307-8 Ashkenazim 374-5 amusement & water parks Beach 154 Mey Kedem Tunnel 182 Atlit 179-80 Latrun 110 Netanya Beach 153 Old Jaffa Visitors Centre ATMs 415 Meymadion Water Park 125 North Beach 332 128 320 Tel Aviv 125 Tel Aviv 10, 123-6, 10 Petra 343-6, 350-1 Ayn Hawd 177-9 Tiberias 216 Village Beach 333 National Park Zamir Beach 166 Ancient City (Petra) 343-6 306-7 people 377 Ani’am Artists’ Village 255 Tel Be’er Sheva 317-18 B Baha’i faith 164 beer 20, 382 animals 402, 403, see also Tel Hatzor 247 individual species Baha’i Gardens (Akko) 189 Be’er Sheva 317-19, Balata Archaelogical 318 Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 12, Apollonia National Park Park 287 Beit Alpha 151-2 159, 161, 12, 168 211 Western Wall Tunnels 66 aquariums 332 Banias Nature Reserve 258 Beit Guvrin-Maresha architecture 17, 69, 126 431-2 Banksy 272, 399 National Park 111 area codes 417 Arafat, Yasser 370-1 Bar’am National Park 242 Beit Keshet Forest 208 Ari’s 237 museum 275 bargaining 415 Beit She’an 15, 209-11, Armageddon 180 tomb 275, Basilica of the ­Annunciation 15, 206 30 Armenian ceramics 70 196, 22 Beit She’an Valley 209-13 art galleries, see also bathhouses & hammams Beit She’arim 177 museums Akko 189 Belvoir 211 Map Pages 000 Beit HaGefen Cultural Center 163 Nablus 289 Ben-Gurion 321 Photo Pages 000 Beit Ha’ir 117 Wadi Musa (Petra) 347 Bet Gabriel 230 438 Bethlehem 16, 266-74, cathedrals, see churches, Church & Monastery of cinema 357, 400, 401 268, 5, 16 chapels & cathedrals the Dormition 71-2 Circassian people 208­ -9, accommodation 272-3 caves Church of All Nations 78 377 checkpoints 264 Bell Caves 111 Church of Mary Citadel 59-60 drinking & nightlife Cave of the 40 Holy ­Magdalene 78 City of David 75-6 273, 274 Monks 200 Church of St John the climate 18, 23-7, see also Baptist 90 INDEX INDEX food 273 Cave of Machpelah 283 individual regions sights 267-72 Dodim Cave 302 Church of St Peter of consulates 413-14 Gallicantu 74-5 travel to/from 274 Elijah’s Cave 165-6 Coral Beach Nature Church of the ­Ascension

B-D Flour Cave 313 Reserve 332  Bethsaida 226 77 bicycle travel, see cycling Mt Sodom 313 costs 19, 412, 414

Church of the Holy  Bio-Ramon 324-5 Rosh HaNikra Grottoes Sepulchre 11, 60-2, 64, courses birdwatching 32, 404 193, 168 224, 61, 11, 85 cooking 347 Agamon HaHula 247 Sidonian Caves 111 Church of the Holy Judaism 239 Soreq Cave 111 Trinity 81 language 91, 131, 166 255 cell phones 18, 417 Church of the co-working spaces 133 Hula Nature Reserve cemeteries, see also tombs ­Multiplication of the credit cards 415 Loaves & Fishes 220, 246-7 & burial sites , the 361-2 225 International Birding & Ancient Jewish culture 385-7 Research Center in ­Cemetery 237 Church of the Nativity 224, 267-9, currency 18 Eilat 333-4 Commonwealth War 224-5 Black Hebrews 376 Cemetery 317 Church of the Pater customs regulations 412 Noster 77 boat travel 422 Kinneret Cemetery 230 cycling 20, 32-3, 405, 422 Church of the Primacy of Bograshov Beach 125 Centre International Marie Beit Keshet Forest 208 St Peter 220-1 books 357 de Nazareth 198-9 Kinneret Trail 218 Church of the ­Visitation ceramics 70, 238 Mt Sodom 313 government & politics 90 Neot HaKikar 314 390 Chagall Windows 90 Franciscan Monastery & health 428 chapels, see churches, Church 208 Sea of Galilee 218 history 363 chapels & cathedrals Greek Catholic Sirrin Heights 208 literature 396-7 checkpoints 264 Church 200 218 religion 394 cheese 381 Greek Orthodox Church children, travel with 40-1 of St George 290 border crossings 36-9, 419 D Jerusalem 93 Greek Orthodox Church British Mandate 50, 113, Dado Lookout 251 363-6 Tel Aviv 125 of the Annunciation 200 dairies 236 budget 19, 412, 414 Christian sites 22, see also Daliyat Al Karmel individual sites Immanuel Church 120-1 burial sites, see tombs & 176-7 burial sites 359-61, 393-4 Jacob’s Well 287 Gate 68 bus travel 422-3 377-8 Lutheran Christmas Church 269-70 dance 397 business hours 19 churches, chapels & dangers, see safety cathedrals, see also Lutheran Church of the monasteries Redeemer 65 Darwish, Mahmoud 372 C Basilica of Jesus the Grotto Chapel 269 Davidka Monument 237 Caesarea 13, 182-5, Adolescent 200 Monastery of the Twelve Dead Sea 9, 44, 297-314, 184, 13 Basilica of the Apostles 226 404-5, 298, 9, 304-5 Caesarea National Park ­Annunciation 196, 22 Mount of the Beatitudes accommodation 297 221 183-4, 168 Basilica of the climate 297 calendars 24 ­Transfiguration 208 Our Lady of the Ark of festivals & events 302 the Covenant 109 camel riding 335 Benedictine Abbey food 299-300 Russian Church of the Capernaum 15, 221, 226, 15 (Abu Ghosh) 109 Ascension 77 geography 299 car travel 423-4 Cana Catholic Wedding St Andrew’s Church 82-3 highlights 298 safety 410 Church 204 St Anne’s Church 68-9 hiking 297 Shabbat 423 Cana Greek Orthodox Wedding Church & St Catherine’s Church history 299 Maximus 67 Monastery 204 269 safety 310 Carmelite Monastery of St Chapel of the ­Ascension St George’s Cathedral 79 travel seasons 297 Elijah 177 77 St James’ Cathedral 70-1 travel to/from 300 Caro Synagogue 235 Christ Anglican Church St Joseph’s Church 197-8 87, 306, 200 St Mark’s Chapel 71 307 Christ Church 65 St Peter’s Church 214 diarrhoea 427 Map Pages 000 Church & Monastery of St Peter’s Monastery 128 disabilities, travellers Photo Pages 000 the Apostles 215 Synagogue-Church 200 with 418 439 diving & snorkelling 33 language 430, 432 courses 166 Wadi Arugot 302 Caesarea 185 price ranges 414 drinking & nightlife 172-3 Wadi Bokek 311 Coral Beach Nature Shabbat 381-2 entertainment 173-4 Wadi David 302 Reserve 332 shakshuka 139 festivals & events 167 Yehudiya Nature Reserve Eilat 332-3 fortresses & palaces, see food 170-2 254 Dome of the ­Ascension 77 also archaeological history 158-9 Hilton Beach 125

Dome of the Rock 9, 58, sites, ruins medical services 174 Hisham’s Palace 280 INDEX 223, 8-9, 84-5, 222 Belvoir Crusader shopping 174 historic sites, see also Fortress 211 Domus Galilaeae 226 sights 159-66 archaeological sites 271-2 driving, see car travel tourist offices 174 Akko’s city walls 186-7 D-H Hisham’s Palace 280 driving licences 423 tours 166-7 ancient Galilee boat 220  Nimrod Fortress 258 Druze people 378 travel to/from 174-5 Atlit Detention Camp 179 Palace of the Lady travel within 175-6 Beit Oliphant 176 Tunshuq 69 Cardo Maximus 67 E halal food 381 Freedom Theatre 290 Independence Hall economy 387 HaMakhtesh HaGadol 326 Frishman Beach 125 117, 120 Egypt border crossings 39 HaMakhtesh HaKatan 326 Inn of the Good Eilat 332-40, 334, 336-7 Hamas 373, 389, 391 ­Samaritan 281 Ein Bokek 311-12 G Hamas–Israel War 356-7 Galilee, Lower 43, 195­ -230, Knights’ Halls 187 Ein Feshkha 306 228-9 197 Mauristan 64-5 Ein Gedi 300-6 Hamat Tveriya National accommodation 195 Old Railway Station Ein Gedi Nature Reserve Park 216 (Jaffa) 130 climate 195 301-2, 305 HaMeiri Dairy 236 Pool of Al Anazia 154-5 food 195 Ein Harod 212 hammams, see bathhouses Ramparts Walk 60 highlights 197 & hammams Ein Hod 177-9 81 internet resources 215 27 Ein Kerem 90 Turkish Railway Station travel seasons 195 256 Har Hazikaron 88-9 317 Galilee, Upper 43, 231­ -51, electricity 413 headcoverings, Jewish 393 White Tower 155 232 Elijah’s Cave 165-6 health 426-8 history 358-73 accommodation 231 embassies 413-14 heat exhaustion 427-8 climate 231 1948 Arab–Israeli War emergencies 19 Hebrew 130, 429-31 366-7 food 231 language 430, 432 Hebron 282-6, 285 Battle of Ein Jalut 213 highlights 232 En Avdat National Park Hecht Museum 166 books 363 travel seasons 231 321-2, 22 Herodium 271-2 British Mandate 50, 113, Gamla Nature Reserve 255 environmental issues Herzliya 151-2 363-6 Gan-Garoo Australian Park 403-6 hiking 21, 32, 33 Christianity, emergence 211-12 escape rooms 145 Coexistence Trail 243 of 361 gardens, see parks & Ethiopian Jews 376 Dead Sea 301 Crusades, the 361-2 gardens etiquette 414 Eilat 338 Hamas–Israel War 356-7 Gay Pride Parade 25 events, see festivals & Ein Gedi Nature Reserve gay travellers 104, 143, 414 events 301 359-60 Gaza Strip 43, 292-6 exchange rates 19 En Avdat National Park Holocaust & WWII 89, Golan Heights 43, 232, 321-2, 22 179, 192, 365-6 252-60, 232 Golan 253 , emergence of Gordon Beach 10, 124, F Trail 200 361-3 Fatah 373, 389, 391 134-5 208 Oslo Accords 370-1 festivals & events 20, Gospel Trail 200 363-6 23-7, 382-3, see also 201, 208 government 388-91 Liberation individual locations 208 Greek Orthodox Church of Organisation (PLO) Masada 308-9 films 357, 400, 401 the Annunciation 200 368-70 Mitzpe Ramon 325 First Station 102 Griffon vultures 255 Palestine, partitioning food 20, 380-4, see also Gush Dan 151 Mt Sodom 313 of 366 individual locations Mt Tabor 208 359-61 cheese 381 Negev 325 WWI 364 H falafel 381 Trail 216 Zionism 363-6 Haas Promenade 83 festivals & celebrations Sea of Galilee 226 hitching 424 382-3 Hai-Bar Yotvata Nature Siege Ramp Trail 309 Reserve 329 holidays 416-17 halal 381 Snake Path 309 Haifa 42, 157-76, 158, 160-1 Holocaust 89, 179, 192, hummus 380 Tel Dan Nature Reserve 365-6 accommodation 167-70 internet resources 384 249 Holon 152-3 kosher 381 activities 166 Park 329 440 horse riding 227, 256-7, 78-9, 94, Kafr Kana 204-5 Mamshit 320 325-6 99, 105-6 Katzrin 252-4 maps 415 hot springs Ein Kerem 90 kayaking 248 Mar Saba Monastery 271, Hamat Gader 228-9 entertainment 104-5 371 284-5 Tiberias 216 festivals & events 91-2 208-9 markets Hula Valley 246-7 food 46, 98-102 Kfar Tavor 208 Bethlehem souq 269

INDEX INDEX Human Condition, The 313 German Colony 83, 97-8, kibbutzim 330 Carmel Market 117 102, 104 hummus 380 Ein Harod 212 Jaffa Flea Market 129 83-8, 102 Ketura 330 Levinski Spice Market

H-M Har Hazikaron 88-9 121  I Kibbutz Lohamei highlights 48 ­HaGeta’ot 191-2 Mahane Yehuda Market

ice skating 251, 335  history 47, 50-1 81, 30, 84 immigration 39 Kibbutz Lotan 329 itineraries 51 Nahalat Binyamin Crafts Incense Route 320 Kibbutz Neot Semadar 59-60 329-30 Market 147 insect bites & stings 428 Jewish Quarter 65-8 Kidron Valley 75-7 Old Port Farmers’ Market insurance 414-15 147 Kidron Valley 75-7 Kinneret Trail 218 health 426 Sarona Market 124 King David St 82-3 Kirkuk-Haifa Pipeline 210 internet access 415 Souq Al Abiad 189 Mahane Yehuda 100-1, 250 internet resources 19 Souq Al Qattanin 70 103-4, 106 87-8 environmental issues 96-7, 101-2 Knights’ Halls 187 Masada 12, 307-11, 12 405 medical services 106-7 Korazim National Park 226 Masada National Park food & drink 384 Mount of 77-8, 223 307-8 Kornmehl Farm 322 health 426 Mt Zion 71-5, 224 Mauristan 64-5 kosher food 381 Islam 361-3, 394-5 Muslim Quarter 68-70 Mea She’arim 86 Kursi National Park 228 Islamic Jihad 389 Old City 53, 92-4, 98-9, medical services 426, 427 Israel Festival 25 102-3, 105, 52-3 Megiddo 180 Israel Museum 17, 86-7, 17 Rechavia 97 L Meir, Golda 388 Israel National Trail 208 83 languages 18, 429-32 256-7 Israeli people 385-6 safety 78 Arabic 431-2 250-1 Israeli settlements 286 shopping 105-6 courses 91, 131, 166 Metzitzim Beach 124-5 itineraries 28-31 sights 51-90 Hebrew 130, 429-31 Mey Kedem 182 Talbiyeh 83, 104 Last Supper, Room of Meymadion Water Park 125 83 the 71 J Midburn 25 tourist offices 107 Latrun 110 Jacob’s Well 287 Respiratory tours 91 Law of Return 375 Jaffa (Yafo) 42, 113, 127-31, Syndrome 427 travel seasons 46 legal matters 415 137, 141-2, 144, 147, 128 Mikhmoret Beach 154 Leishmaniasis 426-7 Jaffa Gate 59 travel to/from 107 military service 385-6 LGBTIQ travellers 104, Jenin 290-1 travel within 108-9 minefields 410 walking tours 61, 62-3, 143, 414 Jericho 12, 223, 279-82, Mini Israel 110 61, 63 Lights in Jerusalem 25 12, 284 missiles 409 96-7, 101-2 Lions’ Gate 69 Jerusalem 42, 46-109 Mitzpe Ramon 323-8, 324 Jerusalem Syndrome 64 literature 396-7, see also 48-9, 72-3 Mizrahim 375-6 Jesus of Nazareth 201, books 97-8 mobile phones 18, 417 360-1, 393-4 Little Petra 353-4 accommodation 46, 92-8 monasteries, see also Jesus Trail 201, 208 Lot’s Wife 313 70-1 churches, chapels & Jewish dress 88, 393 Lower Galilee, see Galilee, Baka 97-8 cathedrals Jewish peoples 369, 374-6 Lower children, travel with 93 Carmelite Monastery of 209-13 Luna Park 125 St Elijah 177 60-5 Jezreel Valley Railway 210 Church & Monastery of climate 46 Jish 243-5 the Apostles 215 courses 91 M Jisr Az Zarka 182 Magdala 220 Church & Monastery of Downtown 79-82, 94-6, the Dormition 71-2 Jordan border crossings Mahane Yehuda Market 81, 99-100, 103, 106, 37-9, 419 Ethiopian Monastery 64 80-1 30, 84 Jordan River 248 Franciscan Monastery & drinking & nightlife 259-60 Judaica 398 Church 208 102-4 Majrase Nature Reserve Judaism 362, 386, 392-3 228 Latrun Monastery 110 Makhtesh Ramon 16, Mar Saba Monastery 271, 324, 16 284-5 Map Pages 000 K Monastery of the Kabbalah 362 makhteshim 326 Photo Pages 000 Cross 88 Kadosh Dairy 236 architecture 69 441 Monastery of the Circassian Heritage Museum of Palestinian Beit Guvrin-Maresha Qurantul 280 Center 209 Heritage 270 National Park 111 Monastery of the Twelve Citadel 59-60 Museum of the History Beit She’an National Apostles 226 Clandestine Immigration of Jerusalem 59 Park 209-10, 206 St George’s Monastery & Naval Museum 165 Nachum Gutman Beit She’arim National 281 Design Museum Holon Museum of Art 121 Park 177

St Peter’s Monastery 128 152 National Maritime Caesarea National Park INDEX Stella Maris Carmelite Eilat Museum 333 Museum 165 183-4, 168 Monastery 165 Eretz Israel Museum 127 Negev Museum of Art & En Avdat National Park money 18, 19, 413, 415-16 EthnoCenter 325 Museum of Islamic & 321-2, 22 M-N  Montefiore Windmill 82 Near Eastern Cultures Hamat Tveriya National First Aliya Museum 181 317

 Montfort 192-3 Park 216 Galil Nature Center 249 NILI Museum 181 Amirim 242-3 Galilee Experience 215 Korazim National Park Nisco Museum 178 226 Golan Archaeological Open Museum of Kursi National Park 228 Al Amari Mosque 216 Museum 252 Photography 250 Al Aqsa Mosque 59 Museum 120 Masada National Park Palestinian Heritage 307-8 Al Bahr Mosque 215 Haifa City Museum 163 Museum 79 Megiddo National Park Al Jazzar Mosque 187 Haifa Museum of Art Museum 127 180 Hassan Bek Mosque 129 163-4 Ramla Museum 155 Qumran National Park HaMeiri Museum 236 Ibrahimi Mosque 283, Rockefeller Museum 79 306-7 Hammam Al Pasha 284 Rubin Museum 117 National Park 187, 169 Mosque of Omar 269 Russian Museum 280 319 Hecht Museum 166 281 Samaritan Museum 288 Tzipori National Park Herodian Quarter Red Mosque 239 Tikotin Museum of 205, 207 Museum 67-8 White Mosque 200 Japanese Art 162 nature reserves, see also Herzl Museum 89 motorcycle travel 423-4 Treasures in the Wall national parks safety 410 Holocaust History Museum 187 Banias Nature Reserve Museum 89 77-8, 223 Underground Prisoners 258 IDF History Museum Museum 187, 189 Ein Feshkha Nature Mount of Temptation 280 130-1 Upper Galilee Museum Reserve 306 Mount of the Beatitudes Israel Children’s Museum 221 of 248 Ein Gedi Nature Reserve 152-3 301-2, Mt Bental 257 Weizmann Institute of 305 Israel Museum 17, Gamla Nature Reserve Mt Gilboa 212-13 Science 153 86-7, 17 255 Mt Hermon 260 Yad Layeled Children’s Israeli Air Force Museum Memorial Museum 192 Hai-Bar Yotvata Nature Mt Meron 242 318 Yad Vashem 88-9 Reserve 329 Mt Sodom 313 Israeli Museum 127 Yasser Arafat Museum HaYarden Park Nature Mt Tabor 205, 208 Jabotinsky Institute 117 275 Reserve 226 Mt Zion 71-5, 224 Janco-Dada Museum Yigal Alon Centre 220 Hula Nature Reserve 178 Muhammad, Prophet 55, Yitzhak Rabin Centre 127 246-7 58, 361, 394-5 Kesem Hagolan 253 music 397-8 Majrase Nature Reserve museums, see also art LA Mayer Museum for 228 Muslim peoples 376-7 galleries Islamic Art 83 Makhtesh Ramon Nature Be’er Avraham 318 MadaTech 164-5 Reserve 16, 324, 16 Beit Hatfutsot 126-7 Mahmoud Darwish N Nahal Iyyun Nature Beit Lohamei HaGeta’ot Museum 275 Nablus 17, 286-90, 288, 17 Reserve 251 192 Maine Friendship House Nahal Iyyun Nature Tel Dan Nature Reserve Ben-Gurion Museum 116 120 Reserve 251 248-9 Ben-Gurion’s Desert Mané-Katz Museum 162 Nahariya 192 Yehudiya Nature Reserve Home 321 Masada Museum 308 Nahla’ot 83 254-5 Bethlehem Museum 269 Memorial Museum of Naot Farm 322 Nazareth 14, 196-204, ­ , , Bialik Museum 117 Hungarian Speaking national parks, see also 198-9 15 206 Lands Museum 87 Jewry 239 nature reserves Nazareth Village 201 Bloomfield Science Museum of Art, Ein Akhziv National Park 193 Negev 44, 315-40, 316, 22 Harod 212 Museum 93 Alexander Stream accommodation 315 Burnt House 67 Museum of Bedouin National Park 154 climate 315 Culture 319 Apollonia National Park food 315 Museum of Holocaust Museum 184 151-2 highlights 316 Art 89 Centre International Arbel National Park travel seasons 315 Museum of Italian Jewish Marie de Nazareth 219-20 Negev Highlands 319-23 198-9 Art 81-2 Bar’am National Park 242 Nelson Mandela Sq 275 442 Neot HaKikar 313-14 ’s Pools 270 refugee camps 270, 372 Sharon, 371 Neot Kedumim 110-11 Timna Park 329 religion 392-5, see also sherut travel 424 Netanya 153-4 Passover 24 individual religions 320 Netanyahu, Benjamin 372 passports 418 religious services 90 Shrine of Abu Ibrahim 176 nightlife 22 Israeli stamps 38 Ribat Bayram Jawish 69 Shrine of the Báb 161-2, Nimrod 258-9 Petra 44, 341-54, 342, Rivlin, Reuven 389 168 INDEX INDEX Nimrod Fortress 258 344-5, 350-1 rocket attacks 409 Sidonian Caves 111 north coast 42, 156-94, 157 accommodation 341 Room of the Last Supper­ Sidreh – Negev 71 accommodation 156 climate 341 Weaving 319

N-T Rosh HaNikra Grottoes  climate 156 food 341 sinkholes 303 193, 168 Siq 343 food 156 highlights 342  26 highlights 157 itineraries 353 Siq Al Barid 353-4 Rosh Pina 245-6 travel seasons 156 travel seasons 341 Sirrin Heights 208 ruins, see also Petra by Night 347 skiing 260 ­archaeological sites, snake bites 428 planning, see also fortresses & palaces, O individual­ regions snorkelling, see diving & 257-8 historic sites basics 18-19 snorkelling Old Port (Tel Aviv) 124 Al Beidha (Petra) 354 border crossings 36-9, Sodom 312-13 opening hours 19 Crusader castle (Atlit) 419 179-80 Soreq Cave 111 Oslo Accords 370-1 budgeting 19, 412, 414 Hisham’s Palace 280 souqs, see markets Ottolenghi, Yotam 101 calendar of events 23-7 Little Petra Siq 353-4 spas 303 Our Lady of the Ark of the children, travel with 40-1 springs, see hot springs Covenant 109 Samaritan Ruins 287-8 internet resources 19 Sebastia 288-9 Stations of the Cross 62-3 itineraries 28-31 Street of Facades 343 Stella Maris Carmelite Monastery 165 P regions 42-4 Tel Al 279-80 palaces, see fortresses & repeat visitors 20 street art 399 palaces Shabbat 34-5 Suzanne Dellal Centre 121 Palestine Liberation travel seasons 18, 23-7 S synagogues 21 ­Organisation (PLO) 389 plants 402 Sabbath, see Shabbat Abuhav Synagogue Palestinian Authority 390 235-6 politics 356-7, 367-73, Safari 125 Palestinian Heritage 388-91 Safed, see Tsfat Ades Synagogue 82 Museum 79 Pool of Al Anazia 154-5 safety 408-10, 412-13 Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue Palestinian people 387 224, 235 Pool of Bethesda 68 hitching 424 parks & gardens Beit Alpha Synagogue population 356, 385-7 road 424 Baha’i Gardens (Akko) 211 postal services 416 sinkholes 303 189 Capernaum 221 protests 409-10 Samaritans 378-9 Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) Caro Synagogue 235 public holidays 416-17 Sanhedrin Trail 216 12, 159, 161, 12, 168 Sarona 124 Eliahu Hanavi 67 Bio-Ramon 324-5 23 Schindler, Oskar 73-4 Emtza’i (Middle) Botanical Garden of ­Synagogue 67 scuba diving, see diving Eilat 334 Hurva Synagogue 68 Q Sde Boker 321-3 Citadel Park 237 Qalandia 264 Istanbuli Synagogue 67 Sea of Galilee 15, 43, 195, Ein Gedi Botanical Sephardic Ari Synagogue Qasr Al Yahud 280, 223 218, 219-30, 197, 206-7 Garden 302-3 236 Qumran National Park cycling 218 Gan Ha’Em 163 306-7 Umm Al Kanatir highlights 197 Gan Meir Park 117 Viewpoint 256 ­Synagogue 255 Garden of Gethsemane walking 226 Yokhanan Ben Zahai 67 78 water level 221 Garden Tomb 79 R security 408-10 HaPisgah Gardens 128-9 rabies 427 senior travellers 413 T 219, 220, 224 Independence Park 125 Rabin Square 115-16 separation wall 271 taxes 417 Japanese garden 211 Rabin, Yitzhak 127, 370-1 Sephardim 374 taxis 424-5 Park HaYarkon 126 Rachel’s Tomb 270 settlements, Israeli 286 Taybeh 278-9 Ramat HaNadiv Gardens rafting 248 Shabbat 34-5, 90, 416 Tel Al Sultan 279-80 181 Ramadan 383 driving 423 Tel Arad National Park 319 Shepherds’ Field 270 Ramallah 10, 274-8, food 381-2 276, 10 Jerusalem 96 Tel Aviv 17, 42, 112-51, 114, , , Ramat Dalton 245 Tel Aviv 146 122-3 17 134-5 accommodation 112, Map Pages 000 Ramla 154-5, 155 Tsfat 236, 241 132-7 Photo Pages 000 Red Sea Jazz Festival 26 shakshuka 139 activities 131 443 City Centre 115-17, 133, Tiberias 213-19, 214 sights 233-9 Western Wall 10, 65-6, 223, 137-9, 143, 146 time 417 tourist offices 241 10, 84, 222 climate 112 tipping 415 tours 239 Western Wall Tunnels 66 courses 131 Tisch Zoological ­Gardens travel to/from 241 wetlands 404-5 drinking & nightlife 93 Tzipori 205, 207 wildflowers 402 142-4 tombs & burial sites, see wildlife 402, 403

entertainment 144-6 also cemeteries windsurfing 33 INDEX festivals & events 132 Ben-Gurion Graves 321 U wineries 21, 244 Underwater Observatory Florentin 121, 123, 141 Garden Tomb 79 Adir Winery 245 Marine Park 332 food 112, 137-42 Grave of Oskar Schindler Bahat Winery 256  T-Z University of Haifa 166 highlights 114 73-4 Boker Valley Vineyards  ,Upper Galilee, see Galilee history 113, 115 76 Farm 323 Upper internet access 148 King David’s Tomb 71 180-1 internet resources 148 Monastery (Petra) 346 Carmey Avdat Winery itineraries 116 Rachel’s Tomb 270 V 323 Jaffa (Yafo) 113, 127-31, Royal Tombs (Petra) 343 Valley of Jehoshaphat 76-7 Dalton Winery 245 137, 141-2, 144, 147, Tomb of Rabbi Akiva vegetarian & vegan 128 215-16 ­travellers 20, 142, 381 252 medical services 148 Tomb of Ba’al Via Dolorosa 62-3, 223, 63, Nachmani Winery 213 121, 141, HaNess 215 222-3 Odem Mountain Winery 146-7, 135 Tomb of Rabbi Yohanan vineyards, see wineries 257 Park HaYarkon 126-7, 137 ben Zakkai 215 visas 418-19 Pelter Winery 256 Ramat Aviv 126-7 Tomb of the Lady visual arts 399, 400 Sde Boker Winery 323 Tunshuq 69 safety 148 volunteering 419 Tabor Winery 208 Tomb of the Patriarchs shopping 146-8 Taybeh Winery 278-9 224, 283 sights 115-31 Tishbi Winery 181 Tomb of the Prophets W women South City Centre 117, 77-8 Wadi Arugot 302 120-1, 136-7, 139-41, in Israel 386 Tomb of the Rambam Wadi David 302 in Palestinian Territories 143-4, 146, 118-19 215 Wadi Musa 346-53, 348 387 Tel Aviv Beach & Port Tomb of the Rashbi 242 123-6, 137 Wailing Wall, see Western women travellers 420 Tomb of the Virgin Wall tourist offices 148 work 420 Mary 78 walking, see hiking tours 126, 131-2 WWI 364 Tomb of Turkan Khatun walking tours travel seasons 112 WWII 365-6, see also 69 Church of the Holy travel to/from 148-9 Holocaust Tomb of Yasser Arafat Sepulchre 61, 61 travel within 149-50 275, 30 Petra 350-1 Tel Aviv Museum of Art Tomb of Zechariah 76-7 Via Dolorosa 62-3, 63 Y 116, 134 Tombs of the Kabbalists Ya’ar HaAyalim 257 Walled Off Hotel 272 Tel Dan Nature Reserve 237 Yad Vashem 88-9 water 403-4, 428 248-9 Treasury 343 Yafo, see Jaffa water parks, see Tel Dan Stele 249 tourist information 418 ­amusement & water Yamit 2000 125 250 tours 425 parks Yardenit 218 Tel Hatzor 247 59-60 weather 18, 23-7, see also Yardenit Baptismal Site 230 telephone services 18, 417 train travel 20, 425 individual regions Yasser Arafat Museum 275 Archaelogical traveller’s diarrhoea 427 websites, see internet Yehudiya Nature Reserve Park 287 travel to/from Israel & the resources 254-5 Templars’ Tunnel 187 Palestinian Territories Weizmann Institute of Yitzhak Rabin Centre 127 Temple Mount/Al Haram 421-2 Science 153 Ash Sharif 9, 53-9, travel within Israel & the West Bank 43, 261-91, 262 , Z 56-7 56-7 Palestinian Territories accommodation 261 temples 422-5 Zichron Ya’akov 180-2 climate 261, 265 First Temple 47, 59, 65, Tree of Zacchaeus 280 Zion Gate 68 food 261 358-9 trekking, see hiking Zionism 365, 367 highlights 262 Great Temple (Petra) Tsfat 13, 233-41, , zoos 234 13 history 263-5 344 accommodation 239-40 Gan-Garoo Australian safety 263 Park 211-12 Qasr Al Bint (Petra) 345 courses 239 tours 265 Haifa 163 Second Temple 47, 54-5, festivals & events 239 65, 359-60 travel seasons 261 Hamat Gader 229 food 240-1 theatre 398-400 travel to/from 265 Tisch Zoological Gardens history 233 theft 410 travel within 266 93 medical services 241 Ya’ar HaAyalim 257 444 NOTES 445 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 446

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Jenny Walker Petra Despite having travelled to more than 120 countries from Mexico to ­Mongolia and Latvia to Lesotho, Jenny Walker’s main interest is in the ­Middle East, where she has been Associate Dean (PD) of Caledonian College of ­Engineering in Muscat for the past eight years. A member of the British Guild of Travel Writers and the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild, Jenny has written extensively on the Middle East for Lonely Planet for more than a decade. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across and overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, , Melbourne, Dublin, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Daniel Robinson Lower Galilee & Sea of Galilee, Upper Galilee & Golan, The Dead Sea, The Negev Brought up near San Francisco and Chicago, Daniel spent part of his childhood in Jerusalem, a bit of his youth at Kibbutz Lotan and many years in Tel Aviv, where he worked on a PhD in late Ottoman history, covered suicide bombings for the Associ- ated Press, and helped lead the local Critical Mass campaign for bike paths. A Lonely Planet author since 1989, he holds a BA in Near Eastern Studies from Princeton and an MA in from . His favourite activities in Israel include cycling Tel Aviv’s historic avenues, hiking the wadis of Ein Gedi, and birdwatching in the Hula and Arava Valleys.

Orlando Crowcroft West Bank, The Gaza Strip Orlando Crowcroft is a senior editor at Newsweek, author and former foreign correspondent who first visited the Palestinian Territo- ries in 2012 to cover a football tournament and has reported from Israel, the West Bank and Gaza regularly ever since. He was based in Tel Aviv as a stringer for the Guardian in 2014 when he began writing for Lonely Planet. In 2017 he published his first book, Rock in a Hard Place: Music and Mayhem in the Middle East. His passions include sampling local fire-water and road trips (ideally not at the same time) and he has never met a dive bar he didn’t like.

Anita Isalska Jerusalem, Haifa & the North Coast Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copy- writer whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of places in between. After several merry years as an inhouse editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host of websites and magazines. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

Dan Savery Raz Tel Aviv Dan Savery Raz is a journalist and editor from Essex, England. Since 2008, Dan has lived in Tel Aviv with his wife and has coauthored various editions of Israel & the Palestinian Territories. He has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet books including Best in Travel, Happy, Street Food, Global Beer Tour and Great Escapes, and written for BBC.com, BBC History Magazine, , Time Out, EasyJet Traveller and The Jerusalem Report. Back in the UK, Dan was Deputy Editor for Flybe magazine and Senior Staff Writer forA Place in the Sun in association with Channel 4. For more, see: www.danscribe.com.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 9th edition – Jul 2018 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 056 7 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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