Early and Costume bibliography

Compiled by Helen Bell, LPS Librarian, with assistance from Beth McCasland, LPS President

This is not an exhaustive list, and there are many more articles in magazines such as Lace, the IOLI Bulletin, PieceWork Magazine, and International Lace Magazine, that relate to early bobbin and needle laces, and further material may be found in the bibliographies of books and articles listed here.

(Books and magazines marked with an * are held in the LPS library, and are available to LPS members only for loan.)

Lace:

-A brief history of lace in the 1500’s. http://www.jps.net/lynnmcm/lace/html *Alnes, A. Lacemaking in Norway, in, OIDFA Bulletin, (3), July-September, 2002, pp 6-9. (Also in French). Anon. From the Powerhouse Collection, in, Australian Lace, 32(3), Autumn 2011, pp 14-5. Anon. Venetianische Musterblaetter aus dem XVI Jahrhundert - Le Pompe, Second Book. 1562. [Venetian Pattern Sheets of the Sixteenth Century], 1879. (Available on-line: http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html ) *Archer, A. , in, OIDFA Bulletin, (4),October-December 2001, pp 6-9. (Also in French). *Azzopardi, C. The history of lace in the Maltese Islands I, in, OIDFA Bulletin, (2), April- June 2002, pp 18-20. (Also in French). *Azzopardi, C. The history of lace in the Maltese Islands II, in, OIDFA Bulletin, (3), July-September 2002, pp 20-1. (Also in French). *Barley, C. English – , in, OIDFA Bulletin, (1),January-March 2001, p30. (Also in French). *Barley, C. Stumpwork, in, OIDFA Bulletin, (1), January-March 2001, p17. (Also in French). Bartlett, L. Lace Villages. Rev. 2nd Ed. Arima Publishing, 2006. Bierman, Sr FL. Lace its role in historic dress: A Master’s report submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree Master of Science. Kansas State College of Agriculture and Applied Science, 1953. *Bradbury, FM. Antique lace patterns. Stemmer House, 1985. Browne, C. and Searle, G. Antique lace: identifying types and techniques. Schiffer, 2002. Browne, C. Lace from the Victoria and Albert Museum. V&A Publications, 2004. Buck, A. The teaching of lacemaking in the East Midlands, in, Folk Life, IV, 1966, pp 39-50. Burkhard, C. Fascinating , patterns from the first book of bobbin lace to be printed (1561) in the German language with instruction for making and using them. Haupt Press, Switzerland, 1986. (Better known as Nüw Modelbuch), in German, French, and English) *Campagnol, I. Invisible lacemakers: the needlework of the Venetian nuns, in, PieceWork, XXII(3), May/June 2014, pp 12-3. Dahren, L. Med kant av guld och silver, En studie av knypplade barder och uddar av meetall 1550-1640. Uppsala, 2010. (In Swedish, with English summary). *Davis, K. Generation gap, in, IOLI Bulletin, 35(1), Fall 2014, pp 32-7. *Davis, K. Larry’s lace, in, IOLI Bulletin, 31(2), Winter 2011, pp 27-9.

Updated: April 29, 2017 © Helen Bell and Beth McCasland, 2017 *Davis, K. Larry’s lace: to the point, in, IOLI Bulletin, 31(3), Spring 2012, pp 7-11. *Davis, K. : from the anvil to the avant-garde, in, IOLI Bulletin, 30(3), Spring 2010, pp 5-9. *Dorset, J. The Conway lace, in, Lace, (62), April 1991, p29. *Dye,G. Early lace – playing snap?, in, Lace, (138), April 2010, pp 27-9. *Dye, G. Elizabethan Lace. Cleveden Press, 2009. Dye, G. Elizabethan laces, in, Lace, (105), January 2002, pp 20-2. Dye, G. Gold and silver edgings: sixteenth and seventeenth century lace. Book 1. Cleveden Press, 2012. Dye, G. Insertions & Borders: sixteenth & seventeenth century lace. Book 4. Cleveden Press, 2015 Dye, G. The Isham samples and other linen edgings: sixteenth and seventeenth century lace. Book 2. Cleveden Press, 2012. *Dye, G. Jane Lambarde’s mantle, in, Lace, (135), July 2009, pp 25-7. *Dye, G. Search for early English lace, in, Lace, (137), January 2010, pp 28-9. *Dye, G. Shoe roses, in, IOLI Bulletin, 31(2), Winter 2011, pp 32-3. *Dye, G. Sixteenth Century puzzles, in, IOLI Bulletin, 34(3), Spring 2014, pp 12-5. Dye, G. Surface decoration in silk and metallic thread: sixteenth and seventeenth century lace. Book 3. Cleveden Press, 2013. *Dye, G. Working with bobbins, in, IOLI Bulletin, 34(2), Winter 2014, pp 16-7. *Earnshaw, P. Bobbin & needle laces: identification & care. B.T. Batsford Ltd., 1983. *Earnshaw, P. The identification of Lace. Shire Publications, Ltd, 1994. *Evans, N. Stumpwork, in, IOLI Bulletin, 34(3), Spring 2014, p23. *Ginsburg, M (Ed.) The illustrated history of textiles. Grammercy, 1991. Gomez, E. (Ed.). Les Dentelles à l’aiguille [Needlelace]. Éditions L’Inédite, 2007. (In French). Grafton, CB. Pictorial archive of lace designs, 325 historic examples. Dover Press, 1989. *Hall, J. and Jarrett, B. Lace making in Ripon, in, Lace, (46), April 1987, pp 33-4. *Hashagen, J. and Levey, SM. Fine & fashionable: lace from the Blackborne Collection. The Bowes Museum, 2006. *Jackson, FN. Old handmade lace, with a dictionary of lace. Dover Press, 1987. *Jeppson, BD. Milanese lace, in, Bulletin, November 1970, pp 27-9. Jourdain, M. Old lace: a handbook for collectors. B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1988. (First published in 1908). Kliot, J. and Kliot, K. The needle-made lace of . Lacis Publications, 1994. *Koutslka, D. The collection in the Victoria and Albert Museum, in, OIDFA Bulletin, (1), January- March 2000, pp 28-30. (Also in French). Kraatz, A. Lace, history and fashion. Rizzoli International, 1989. Kurella, E. Guide to linens and lace. Antique Trader Books, 1999. Kurella, E. Pocket guide to valuable old lace and lacy linens. The Lace Merchant, 1996. *Levey, SM. Lace, a history. Victoria & Albert Museum / W.S. Maney & Son Limited, UK, 1983. Levey, SM. and Payne, PC. Le Pompe, 1559. Patterns for Venetian bobbin lace. Ruth Bean Press, 1983. *Montupet, J. and Schoeller, G. Lace, the elegant web. Harry N. Abrams, 1990. Morgan, M. : stitches and patterns. Sally Milner Publishing, 2007. *Morris, C. England’s oldest bobbin?, in, Lace, (49), January 1988, pp 19-20. Parasole, E. Musterbuch für Stickereien und Spitzen [Pattern Book for and Lace]. 1616. (Available on-line: http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html#monographs ) *Parry, P. Downton lace – one of England’s less well known lace industries, in, OIDFA Bulletin, (2), April-June 2002, pp 26-7. (Also in French). Pond, G. An introduction to lace. Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1973. *Raffel, MC. The laces of Ipswich: the art and economics of an early American industry, 1750-1840. University press of New England, 2003.

Updated: April 29, 2017 © Helen Bell and Beth McCasland, 2017 Rankin, KL. History of lace, its uses and importance today: A Masters report submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree Master of Science. Kansas State University of Agriculture and Applied Science, 1960. Reigate, E. An illustrated guide to lace. Antique collector’s Club, 1986. Ricci, E. Italian designs, 243 classic examples. Dover Press, 1993. Ricci, E. Old Italian lace. volume II. Obscure Press, 2010 (reprint of 1913 edition) Rixon, A. Just a piece of lace? Examining the fragments of lace from the wreck of the VOC Retourschip Batavia, in, Bulletin of the Australasian Institute of Maritime Archaeology, (26), 2002. pp 51-7. *Sajonc, J. Freehand lace in the Hont region – Slovak Republic, in, OIDFA Bulletin, (3), July-September 2002, pp 16-9. (Also in French). Shadbolt, K. Lace bobbins from the Batavia, in, Australian Lace, 6(3), 1985, pp 12-3. Sharpe, S. Lace making in the 17th century. http://www.portsdown.demon.co.uk/lace.htm Shepherd, R. The “Batavia” lace, in, Australian Lace, 14(2), Summer 1992, pp 8-9. --- Apologies, in, Australian Lace, 14(3), Autumn 1993, p2. (Corrections to article in Australian Lace, 14(2).) Shepherd, R. The Batavia lace re-visited/La Dentelle Batavia, revisitée, in, OIDFA Bulletin, 31(4), 2013, pp 22-9 Shepherd, R. An early lace workbook, bobbin lace techniques before the Baroque. Lace Daisy Press with Lace Press, Australia, 2009. Shepherd, R. Early plaited bobbin lace, in, Australian Lace, 14(4), Winter 1993, pp 4-6. *Shepherd, R. Elizabeth Isham and the seven pence lace: reconstruction, adaptation or interpretation? , in, IOLI Bulletin, 33(1), Fall 2012, pp 27-31. *Thompson, K. Ipswich lace at the Smithsonian, in, OIDFA Bulletin, (3), July-September 2002, pp 24-8. (Also in French) Toomer, H. Antique lace, identifying types and techniques. Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 2001 *Toomer, H. Lace: a guide to identifying old lace types and techniques. *Vandoren, B. Footbench cover of 1599 for Albrecht + Isabel, in, Lace Magazine, Spring, 1988, pp 15-9. Vecellio, C. Pattern Book of . A reprint of the 1617 Edition of Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne. Dover Press, 1988. Vecellio, C. Vecellio’s patterns for needle lace – 1591. Lacis Publications, [n.d.] Vinciolo, F. I Singolari e Nuovi Disegni [Singular and New Designs]. 1609. Note: 1909 facsimile. (Available on- line: http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html#monographs ) Vinciolo, F. Renaissance patterns for lace, embroidery, and needlepoint. An unabridged facsimile of the Singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts of 1587. Dover Press, 1971. *Voysey, C. Bobbin lace in photographs. B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1987. *Voysey, C. Needlelace in photographs. B.T. Batsford, Ltd., 1987. *Vroom, L. Pot laces: and original historic lace research project, in, International Lace Magazine, 27, Fall 1993, pp 4-15. Wright, T. The romance of the lace pillow. A new edition with notes. Ruth Bean, 1982. *Zuman, R. Historical development of lacemaking in Czechoslovakia, in, Canadian Lacemaker Gazette, 6(3), Spring, 1992, pp 17-9.

Updated: April 29, 2017 © Helen Bell and Beth McCasland, 2017 Costume:

Alexander, H. Fans. B.T. Batsford, 1984. *Collier, A. Lace: its history and identification. Second Ed., Rev. Kingsclere Publications, 1979. (Timeline of lace in fashion in rear of book.) *Earnshaw, P. Lace in Fashion: from the sixteenth to the twentieth centuries. 2nd Edition. Lacis Publications, 1991. *Hashagen, J. and Levey, SM. Fine & fashionable: lace from The Blackborne collection. The Bowes Museum, 2006. Melville, B. The fan and lace. Lochlea Publications, 1991. *Stevelinck-Maes, G. A short history of hats, in, OIDFA Bulletin, (4) October- December 2000, pp 34-6. (Also in French).

Note: The following references are specific to the Tudor and Elizabethan eras:

Arnold, J. Patterns of fashion, the cut and construction of clothes for men and women c1560-1620. MacMillan Publishers Ltd, and Quite Specific Media Group, Ltd, 1985. Arnold, J. Patterns of fashion 4, the cut and construction of linen shirts, smocks, neckwear, headwear, and accessories for men and women. MacMillan Publishers Ltd, 2008. Arnold, J. Queen Elizabeth’s wardrobe unlocked. Maney Press, 1988. *Bruggeman, M. Remarkable women 3: Martine (1550-1616) and Catharine (1553-1622) Plantin, in, Kant, 39(4), December 2016, pp 3-4. (English translation included). *Bruggeman, M. Remarkable women: Isabella of Spain 1566-1633, in, Kant, 40(1), March 2017, pp 3-5. (English translation included). Druchunas, D. The lace socks of Spanish Charra dancers, in, PieceWork, XXIII (1), January/February 2015, pp 10- 3. Earle, AM. Two Centuries of costume in America, 1620-1820,Vol. One. Corner House Publishers, 1974. Edwards, LO’C. Fashion for all: garments knitted from wool yarn in Elizabethan England, in, PieceWork, XXIII(1), January/February 2015, pp 16-9. *Ginsburg, M (Ed.). The illustrated history of textiles. 1991. Huggett, J and Mikhaila,N. Malcom-Davies, J (Ed.). The Tudor child: clothing and culture 1485-1625. Fat Goose Press, 2013. *Jeans, M. A brief history of the use of lace in church linen and vestments, in, Lace, (53), Winter 1988, pp 22-3. Johnson, C. (Malcolm-Davies, J and Mikhaila, N Eds.) The Queen’s servants, gentlewomen’s dress at the accession of Henry VIII. Fat Goose Press, 2011. Landini, RO. and Niccoli, B. Moda a Firenze 1540-1580, lo stile de Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza. Pagliai Polistampa, 2005. (In Italian and English) Mikhaila, N. and Malcolm-Davies, J. The Tudor tailor, techniques and patterns for making historically accurate period clothing. Costume and Fashion Press, and Quite Specific Media Group, Ltd., 2006. North, S. and Tiramani, J (Eds.). Seventeenth-century women’s dress patterns, Book 1. Victoria and Albert Museum, 2011. North, S. and Tiramani, J (Eds). Seventeenth-century women’s dress patterns, Book 2. Victoria and Albert Museum, 2012. *Parker, VB. Lace and fashion: some historical notes, in, The International Old Lacers, Inc. Bulletin, 12(2), Spring 1992, pp 4-5. *Penner, S. Contemplating petticoats, in, The International Old Lacers, Inc. Bulletin, 12(2), Spring 1992, p5. Quinton, R. Glasgow Museums seventeenth-century costume. Unicorn Press, 2013.

Updated: April 29, 2017 © Helen Bell and Beth McCasland, 2017 Reynolds, A. In fine style, the art of Tudor and Stuart fashion. Royal Collection Trust, 2013. *Ridderstedt, M. Chausubles from the 17th century with metal bobbin lace, in, OIDFA Bulletin, (2), April-June 2000, pp 12-5. (Also in French) Speelberg, F. Fashion and virtue: textile patterns and the print revolution, 1520-1620. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2015. Toler, PD. Creating and costuming a persona, in, PieceWork, XV(3), May-June 2007, pp 16-7.

General and other textile embellishment techniques:

Anon. How did they do that? Lucet Braids, in, PieceWork, XVII(2), March-April 2009, p10. Bennett, EJ. An Elne of Lynnyn cloth for a sampler: a sampler timeline, in, PieceWork, X(1), January-February 2002, pp 26-32. Blalock, A. What is blackwork?, in, PieceWork, XXII(1), January-February 2004, p41. *Bush, MP. Catherine of Aragon wasn’t the first: England’s blackwork , in, PieceWork, XXII(4), July- August 2014, pp 20-3. Chalasani, C. From raised embroidery to stumpwork: four centuries of dimensional needlework, in, PieceWork, XXI(2), March-April 2013, pp 22-5. Jones, J and Deer, B. Royal pleasures and pastimes: crafts from the Royal courts. David & Charles Craft Book, 1990. Higginbotham, CA. Blackwork -- An Introduction, in, Needle Pointers, XI(5), Winter 1983. (Available online: http://www.needlepoint.org/Archives/Blackwork/Article.php ) Levey, SM. Bess of Hardwick and her household stuff. Adapted from Elizabethan treasures, the Hardwick Hall textiles, in, PieceWork, VIII(1), January-February 2000, pp 22-7. Phillips, CJB. Spinsters, free maids, tells and Shakespeare, in, PieceWork, XXI(3), May-June 2013, pp 34-6. Rosseau, B. Early seventeenth century English embroidered jackets, in, PieceWork, XIII(1), January-February 2005, pp 30-4. Smith, E. From a medieval Italian town: Assissi embroidery, in, PieceWork, VII(3), May-June 1999, pp 26-8.

Updated: April 29, 2017 © Helen Bell and Beth McCasland, 2017 Websites:

Digital Archive of Documents Related to Lace http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html. (Scanned books, periodicals, and papers in the public domain.)

English Lace Guild: http://www.laceguild.demon.co.uk/craft/history.html

Elizabeth Isham: http://www2.warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/ren/projects/isham/ (includes link to view the contents of one of the diaries). http://theblackworkguild.com/HISTORY-MEMBERS.html http://www.medieval.webcon.net.au/index.html for information historical needlework information, including Or Nue (goldwork). Site covers medieval times up to and including the 16th Century. http://medieval.webcon.net.au/technique_or_nue.html For information on the Or Nue technique. http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/resources/tudor-life/tudor-clothes/ https://sites.google.com/site/freehandlace2/home/earlylace (more good references)

IOLI ning: http://laceioli.ning.com/ and http://laceioli.ning.com/group/early-bobbin-lace (early bobbin lace group)

Needle lace talk: http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/photo/needle-lace-2-1

Plimoth Jacket recreation: http://www.plimoth.org/jacket and http://genvieve.net/sca/embroidery/notes.html and http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O11095/jacket-unknown/ and http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15345/jacket-unknown/ and http://www.elizabethancostume.net/va/jacket.html and http://blogs.plimoth.org/embroidery-blog/tag/laton-jacket/

Sampler: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O70142/sampler-unknown/

The Worshipful Company of Glovers’ of London (much eye-candy) http://www.glovecollectioncatalogue.org/bydate.html

WordPress: http://earlylace.wordpress.com/ (Gil Dye’s website).

Photos: Helen Bell, and lace used with kind permission of Elizabeth Ligeti. Reticella lace designed and worked by Elizabeth Ligeti. Figural needle lace. From the collection of Elizabeth Ligeti. Victorian era reproduction. Reticella sample length, Victorian era reproduction? From the collection of Elizabeth Ligeti. ‘Shakespeare’s flowers’ plastron. Bobbin lace and needle lace. Designed and made by Elizabeth Ligeti.

Updated: April 29, 2017 © Helen Bell and Beth McCasland, 2017