TRAVEL ©Fototeca ENIT

A taste of florence

A fair chunk of the action in Dan Brown’s latest blockbuster, Inferno, what to see... takes place in Florence. The ‘Da Vinci Code Phenomenon’, which propelled You can’t fit all the thrills of Florence into one trip, however long your Rosslyn into the spotlight, stay. There’s only so much extreme seems set to blaze its trail through the beauty even the most seasoned of Mediaeval streets and Renaissance minds (not to mention feet) can take corridors of Florence as tourists – not before collapsing in a heap of cultural all of them American – sign up for the overload. The technical term is ‘Stendhal Syndrome’. ‘Inferno Tour’. Allow time to throw away the Not that the city was any stranger guidebook and be seduced by to tourism before Robert Langdon the charm of the place as Lucy came along. Florence suits people. Honeychurch learns to in ‘A Room As one of the original mercantile with a View’. Many Florentine gems can be soaked up from the outside: hubs, it thrives on buzz and bustle. To the riot of pink, green and white avoid the stampede, it’s best to visit marble that makes up the façade of during winter and invest in a Firenze the Duomo, the intimidating stone Card (www.firenzecard.it) for cheaper, surrounds of the Renaissance palaces, easier access to most attractions. the ancient bridge with The Gozzoli frescoes in the Medici its balancing-act jewellery stores. But Chapel at Palazzo Medici Ricardi LUCY HOLLOWAY there’s a lot on the inside too. ©Turismo, Provincia di Firenze H ere’s my ‘not to miss’ top ten in no particular order:

1. The : but of course. The world’s oldest art gallery with arguably more greatest hits than any other. 2. The : the Medici family’s far-from-secret secret- passage that connects the Uffizi to the Pitti Palace. You need to book a A room with a view at the Hotel Brunelleschi tour to visit. Florence Town (www. florencetown.com) offer informed small group tours of both the Uffizi where to stay... and the corridor which bypass queues. Dan Brown’s hero doesn’t do a lot of 3. The monastery of San Marco with sleeping, but he makes a fine choice when he cell frescoes by resident monk Fra checks in to the Hotel Brunelleschi Angelico. Architecturally splendid – part Byzantine tower (the oldest building in the 4. The Chapel at Santa Croce by historical centre) and part converted church – it enjoys a fabulous location Brunelleschi, the architect who gave in the historical centre close to the Duomo. Décor is modern but classical, the Duomo its . inspired by the architect from whom the hotel takes its name: doors are 5. Also at Santa Croce, the beautifully surrounded by his signature grey stone architraves and glass panels are decorated and frescoes by engraved with drawings of his work. The Pool Suite has a roof terrace with a Giotto. hot tub and wonderful views across the city. The Pigliazza Tower Suite, located in the old mediaeval tower, is a 6. Michelangelo’s unfinished slaves in favourite amongst honeymooners. the Accademia, alongside the even Generous helpings of Dr Vranjes The Hotel Brunelleschi more famous Goliath-sized . reed diffusers ensure that the hotel smells as good as it looks. 7. More Michelangelo, more marble, again unfinished: the Medici tombs As the name suggests, The Antica at San Lorenzo. Torre di via Tournabuoni n. 1 also has a tower and a great location 8. The perfectly formed Gozzoli at the end of Florence’s famous Chapel in the Palazzo Medici Ricardi. designer boutique street and next to 9. : the Spanish the river. chapel with more beautiful frescoes Rooms are spacious and the by Bonaiuti and the pharmacy in the extensive roof terraces of this cloisters. former palace offer a peaceful escape from the bustle below and 10. The small but stunning Brancacci panoramic views of the city as it Chapel across the river at Santa spreads into the hills. Breakfast is Maria del Carmine with frescoes by served on these terraces but Antica Masolino, Masaccio and Filippino Torre doesn’t have a restaurant: Lippi. just one of the things that make it feel more like a selection of private Contact the extremely helpful local apartments than a hotel. tourist board for more ideas and inspiration: www.firenzeturismo.it. A rather grander home from home. A rooftop terrace at Antica Torre Baldovino where to eat... The Hotel Brunelleschi offers two restaurants, the more formal Santa Elisabetta in the tower and the casual Osteria della Pagliazza which HOTEL BRUNELLESCHI is a serves typical Tuscan dishes and opens out onto member of Great Hotels of the World Luxury Collection. the piazza Rooms start from £205. One of the highlights of our stay was an outstanding Caprese salad that would happily www.ghotw.com/Hotel- serve six back home at Casa Holloway. Sadly, I had to leave some to make way for Brunelleschi some fine pistachio ladened bread and a delicious suckling pig. If you’ve got any room or call 020 7380 3658. left, the chef is an award-winning ice cream maker. ANTICA TORRE DI VIA Baldovino is full of flavour, tucked down the side of Santa Croce it offers a warm TORNABUONI N. 1: Rooms start welcome and an embracing, easy going atmosphere: managing (somehow) to be from £150. www.tornabuoni1. both romantic and family friendly and com or call + 39 055 265 8169. to appeal to locals and visitors alike. FLORENCE TOWN offer small Lovingly chosen artisan produce forms group or private tours. the basis of the varied, generous and www.florencetown.com or call reasonably priced menu with special ++39 055 012 3994. antipasti, melting beef casseroles, hearty osso bucco and a wide selection of the Trattoria & Pizzeria BALDOVINO: pizzas that they’re famous for. Via San Giuseppe 22r. Our evening at Il Caminetto is off to www.baldovino.com or call a fabulous start with dishes that get lost +39 055 241773. in translation: Tuscan cheese wrapped If you have time to explore beyond Florence, take a look at in delicate dried beef to form little Il Caminetto parcels served with sweet and spicy Baldovino’s sister villa-hotel and green tomato and ricotta filled courgette flowers cooked in local artisan beer. Florence restaurant in the hills of Chianti: is a meat eater’s paradise (fish rarely gets a look in on the menu) and at Il Caminetto, www.villabordoni.com. Florentine favourite `Fiorentina` (Porterhouse-style steak) is spot on. We finish the Ristorante IL CAMINETTO : evening on their terrace with views of the Duomo and a memorable pairing of 30 year Via dello Studio 34r. old sherry (like liquid liquorice) and chocolates handmade by the manageress of this www.ilcaminettofirenze.com or family-run restaurant. call +39 055 239 6274. The restaurant owns two Sony has bought the rights to ‘Inferno’ and the film is due out in excellently located and December 2015. With Ron Howard directing and Tom Hanks reprising appointed rooms run on a B&B his role as Robert Langdon it promises to be fast-paced and action- basis: www.lestanzedicaterina.it. packed. But no thriller could ever be as thrilling as Florence itself.